Went to paint the calipers,..ended up at the dealership.

[JohnnyZ28]

Well, on Wednesday night I got my "SS" caliper stickers.

I took off my front calipers and took them apart (the pads, slide, etc). I sanded the outside down with sanding blocks to get it as smooth as possible and then cleaned them off with brake cleaner. I then taped off around the pistons, the bleeder valve, and the port for the brake line. Once I had everything prepped I hung them up and sprayed away. It took 4 hours or so to dry before I could handle them. I then applied the decals and then sprayed on the clear coat (big mistake). The clear coat (even though I applied it in a thin even layer) had a white haze to it and screwed up the appearance. So, I then taped around the "SS" decals and repainted them red where the haze marks were.

Now, it turned out sharp! I then attempted to remove the rear calipers and they were a pain in the ass. The brake lines and emergency brake cable are in the way. I couldn't even ghetto rig a breaker bar! I then sent the wife off to Target to get a few detailing paint brushes. To make sure the color matched I sprayed the spray paint into a sh**y mixing bowl to get my puddle of paint. To make myself comfy, I say on my wheel/tire. I just pretended I was in art class and started painting areas that would be seen. The paint gets tacky after about 10 minutes so it was easy to apply 2-3 coats without screwing things up. Hand painting the rear calipers turned out great!

Once I had the rears done I decided to install the fronts. They went back on perfectly smooth. I then backed out of the garage and when I hit the brakes the truck didn't stop. The truck started picking up speed and I ended up crossing the street (Thank God nobody was behind me) until I pulled the hand brake. The tires barked and the truck came to a stop. I then figured since I didn't have any brake pressure that I had to bleed the lines. I cracked open the bleeder valves and had my wife pump the brakes until they started to squirt.... then checked to make sure I had enough brake fluid. Everything was good to go.... tried to back out again (this time with my hand on hand brake) and the truck still wouldn't stop.

Now, the truck needed a flatbed and was towed to the dealership. I told them what I did and said I couldn't fix the problem. They said that when the brake lines are removed that the brakes have to be bled by the computer...??? They said it isn't like a vehicle of the past where you could do it manually. I then asked, "what happens when I need to change my brakes in the future?" The service advisor said that if the calipers are removed and disconnected that the dealership has to do it. So, it is basically forcing us to have it serviced by a GM tech. :banghead: :angry: The guage cluster displayed, "Service Brake System" and then "Stabilitrak Disabled".

Well,... at least my brakes look pretty and I will upload pictures tonight. It is sad seeing my truck on a flatbed before I even get my license plates. :( They won't be able to get to it until Monday and they will then tell me how much it will cost to fix this thing....

Has anyone had the same sh**y luck as me???

[JohnnyZ28]

Since this is a problem as well I will post this here as well.....

Well, on Wednesday night I got my "SS" caliper stickers.

I took off my front calipers and took them apart (the pads, slide, etc). I sanded the outside down with sanding blocks to get it as smooth as possible and then cleaned them off with brake cleaner. I then taped off around the pistons, the bleeder valve, and the port for the brake line. Once I had everything prepped I hung them up and sprayed away. It took 4 hours or so to dry before I could handle them. I then applied the decals and then sprayed on the clear coat (big mistake). The clear coat (even though I applied it in a thin even layer) had a white haze to it and screwed up the appearance. So, I then taped around the "SS" decals and repainted them red where the haze marks were.

Now, it turned out sharp! I then attempted to remove the rear calipers and they were a pain in the ass. The brake lines and emergency brake cable are in the way. I couldn't even ghetto rig a breaker bar! I then sent the wife off to Target to get a few detailing paint brushes. To make sure the color matched I sprayed the spray paint into a sh**y mixing bowl to get my puddle of paint. To make myself comfy, I say on my wheel/tire. I just pretended I was in art class and started painting areas that would be seen. The paint gets tacky after about 10 minutes so it was easy to apply 2-3 coats without screwing things up. Hand painting the rear calipers turned out great!

Once I had the rears done I decided to install the fronts. They went back on perfectly smooth. I then backed out of the garage and when I hit the brakes the truck didn't stop. The truck started picking up speed and I ended up crossing the street (Thank God nobody was behind me) until I pulled the hand brake. The tires barked and the truck came to a stop. I then figured since I didn't have any brake pressure that I had to bleed the lines. I cracked open the bleeder valves and had my wife pump the brakes until they started to squirt.... then checked to make sure I had enough brake fluid. Everything was good to go.... tried to back out again (this time with my hand on hand brake) and the truck still wouldn't stop.

Now, the truck needed a flatbed and was towed to the dealership. I told them what I did and said I couldn't fix the problem. They said that when the brake lines are removed that the brakes have to be bled by the computer...??? They said it isn't like a vehicle of the past where you could do it manually. I then asked, "what happens when I need to change my brakes in the future?" The service advisor said that if the calipers are removed and disconnected that the dealership has to do it. So, it is basically forcing us to have it serviced by a GM tech. :banghead: :angry: The guage cluster displayed, "Service Brake System" and then "Stabilitrak Disabled".

Well,... at least my brakes look pretty and I will upload pictures tonight. It is sad seeing my truck on a flatbed before I even get my license plates. :( They won't be able to get to it until Monday and they will then tell me how much it will cost to fix this thing....

Has anyone had the same sh**y luck as me???

[MajesticLT03]

I honestly have never heard of that problem in my life.. thats 110% retarded that its done like that.

[JohnnyZ28]

Yes, it is retarded. It's so odd that there is no brake pressure when the vehicle is running. I know for a 100% fact that there is fluid in the caliper...!

[MajesticLT03]

when you took the lines off did you hold the end of the line up while you were taking it off and zip tied them up so no fluid would leak out?


you would still need to bleed the brakes before reinstalling but it minimizes the chance of using more fluid to fill it back up..

[OurZoo]

Looking forward to pics. Hope the stealership doesn't get ya for too much.:crazy:

[JohnnyZ28]

when you took the lines off did you hold the end of the line up while you were taking it off and zip tied them up so no fluid would leak out?

As soon as I got the wheels off and had the truck in the air I took off the brake lines. When I took them off barely any fluid came out (which is good). I then covered up the hole and taped them up so no fluid would come out.

you would still need to bleed the brakes before reinstalling but it minimizes the chance of using more fluid to fill it back up..

Once I put the lines back on I opened up the bleeder valves. I then had my wife turn the ignition on and pump the brakes. After a few pumps the fluid started squrting out of the valve and I shut them.

There is no brake pressure whatesoever. The service advisor said that you can't manually bleed these trucks...:confused: I guess I will find out on Monday what exactly needed to be done.

I am pissed off!

[Crashno1]

Unless something has changed, you can not open the bleeder and pump the brakes. Quick one,I know someone else will chime in.
Pump the brakes,open the valve,when the peddle hits the floor you
close the valve.Repeat until no more air.If you pump the brakes while the bleeder is open,you are sucking air back into the line.Hope this helps.

[azachata]

Thats sad man... I hope things work out and you dont spend too much at the dealership...:cry:

[JohnnyZ28]

Unless something has changed, you can not open the bleeder and pump the brakes. Quick one,I know someone else will chime in.
Pump the brakes,open the valve,when the peddle hits the floor you
close the valve.Repeat until no more air.If you pump the brakes while the bleeder is open,you are sucking air back into the line.Hope this helps.

Damnit, so I was doing it wrong?

This is what I did,.. seriously.

1. Open bleeder valve
2. I had my wife continously pump the brakes until fluid squirted out.
3. Once I got a nice solid stream I closed the valve

I did that on both sides. When the truck is turned off there is plenty of pressure. Once I start the truck I lose all pedal pressure and the pedal goes to the floor very easily.

So, basically what I did wrong was pumping while the bleeder was open? I needed my wife to HOLD the brake pedal to the floor after fluid comes out?

I guess I can't really do much RIGHT NOW as the vehicle is at the dealership. Maybe I will pack up my mini tool box, my two jackstands, and my jack and just do it in their parking lot. The only problem I see with this is that they have security and I don't want the cops rollin' in at full force thinking that I'm jacking a set of wheels. :p

[TonyGXP]

you pump the pedal with THE VALVE CLOSED!!!! you maniac....then hold firm pressure, open the valve, when you get all fluid straight through no air bubbles (you'll hear it) you close the valve all during this time since the valve was opened, the pedal has to remain pressed down...

I did all four calipers on the truck..because of the PITA it is too bleed them..And I know what I'm doing...PLEASE anyone screwing around with their brakes that lives in Central NJ..call me first so I can stay off the road:D ....thank god you didn't crash and no one got hurt..good luck...

[JohnnyZ28]

And, here are the pictures.....

Got the vehicle up and the brakes off. There are two bolts to remove the caliper and two bolts to remove the slide with brake pads. The pads are in kinda goofy and need to be "worked" out.

http://www.fototime.com/{BB518D1E-A937-4483-9633-C09A03F66F79}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{C369F5A4-4DE0-45E5-8258-C3F6DA82A4F7}/picture.JPG

This is what I used to grind down the high spots and smooth out the surface. Once I was done I cleaned them off with brake cleaner.

http://www.fototime.com/{13D67C92-FEF4-4902-950F-6C910EDCA37B}/picture.JPG

Ghetto rigged my wifes purse/coat hanger to use for my spray booth. :crazy: :D

http://www.fototime.com/{CD0C6D8C-D3EE-40BD-AE35-3F2195FB4107}/picture.JPG

Finished product on the floor after I applied the caliper decal.

http://www.fototime.com/{B8E460E8-EEBF-4F06-B4F3-5F3A400D6F65}/picture.JPG

[JohnnyZ28]

On the truck....

http://www.fototime.com/{DA2F9F9F-09FD-4211-AB27-E5615E80156D}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{0E067794-185E-4436-9639-18785EE64609}/picture.JPG

Wheels on the truck and lowered off the jack stands. Yes, I know my wheels are dirty.

http://www.fototime.com/{C68EB0CA-2B3C-465E-9599-87F425A5B2D9}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{91D67C4F-C2B5-4DA3-89B0-6C5D32DC43A6}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{3404B447-C4CC-45D2-8D38-4AD1BEAB080D}/picture.JPG

Shot from further back.... just got my front windows tinted too. :)

http://www.fototime.com/{FAF960E3-CA15-4717-A2EF-A38DBE0002DB}/picture.JPG


And,... time for the sad picture.... :no: :(



























http://www.fototime.com/{576172BD-640D-4DAB-B773-7DCB6740CB4A}/picture.JPG

[JohnnyZ28]

And, here are the pictures.....

Got the vehicle up and the brakes off. There are two bolts to remove the caliper and two bolts to remove the slide with brake pads. The pads are in kinda goofy and need to be "worked" out.

http://www.fototime.com/{BB518D1E-A937-4483-9633-C09A03F66F79}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{C369F5A4-4DE0-45E5-8258-C3F6DA82A4F7}/picture.JPG

This is what I used to grind down the high spots and smooth out the surface. Once I was done I cleaned them off with brake cleaner.

http://www.fototime.com/{13D67C92-FEF4-4902-950F-6C910EDCA37B}/picture.JPG

Ghetto rigged my wifes purse/coat hanger to use for my spray booth. :crazy: :D

http://www.fototime.com/{CD0C6D8C-D3EE-40BD-AE35-3F2195FB4107}/picture.JPG

Finished product on the floor after I applied the caliper decal.

http://www.fototime.com/{B8E460E8-EEBF-4F06-B4F3-5F3A400D6F65}/picture.JPG

[JohnnyZ28]

On the truck....

http://www.fototime.com/{DA2F9F9F-09FD-4211-AB27-E5615E80156D}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{0E067794-185E-4436-9639-18785EE64609}/picture.JPG

Wheels on the truck and lowered off the jack stands. Yes, I know my wheels are dirty.

http://www.fototime.com/{C68EB0CA-2B3C-465E-9599-87F425A5B2D9}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{91D67C4F-C2B5-4DA3-89B0-6C5D32DC43A6}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/{3404B447-C4CC-45D2-8D38-4AD1BEAB080D}/picture.JPG

Shot from further back.... just got my front windows tinted too. :)

http://www.fototime.com/{FAF960E3-CA15-4717-A2EF-A38DBE0002DB}/picture.JPG


And,... time for the sad picture.... :no: :(



























http://www.fototime.com/{576172BD-640D-4DAB-B773-7DCB6740CB4A}/picture.JPG

[ieatglue]

That's really sad. Your luck will get better :yes: What grit were those sanding blocks? Btw, I set the last pic as my wallpaper :D

[JohnnyZ28]

you pump the pedal with THE VALVE CLOSED!!!! you maniac....then hold firm pressure, open the valve, when you get all fluid straight through no air bubbles (you'll hear it) you close the valve all during this time since the valve was opened, the pedal has to remain pressed down...

I did all four calipers on the truck..because of the PITA it is too bleed them..And I know what I'm doing...PLEASE anyone screwing around with their brakes that lives in Central NJ..call me first so I can stay off the road:D ....thank god you didn't crash and no one got hurt..good luck...

That's why I backed out of my garage.... at least the rears kinda worked. :eek:

I hope this is the only issue.

[Jophus]

Wow man, that is sad. Hope you get her back soon and all goes well. One thing is for sure, when you do get er back , you have one sweet ride.

[JohnnyZ28]

That's really sad. Your luck will get better :yes: Can't wait for pics!! Btw, what grit paper did you use to smooth them out?

Check the pics right above your post... ;)

[JohnnyZ28]

Wow man, that is sad. Hope you get her back soon and all goes well. One thing is for sure, when you do get er back , you have one sweet ride.

Thanks man. So far so good, however, I do miss my Z28. :(

[JohnnyZ28]

That's really sad. Your luck will get better :yes: What grit were those sanding blocks? Btw, I set the last pic as my wallpaper :D

With it being loaded on a flatbed? :lol:

[jimmyjam]

oh wow..... :duh: :o

if you don't close the bleed valve you're just sloshing fluid back and forth through the lines. not pushing it through in one direction. and more importantly, you're not purging the air. and as far as that lovely explanation from the dealership goes.. :x :no: thats a blatant lie. thats why i don't go to dealerships for service. ever.

I'd recommend the Motives power bleeder to anyone for this job, makes it a snap, hardest part is taking off the wheels.

[JohnnyZ28]

I am planning on taking all of my tools tomorrow and doing it at the dealership.. that way if I manage to **** up again I can just leave it there. :D

[ka2mbp]

I had that problem with an old Saturn SL2 with the ABS. I decided after 3 years it was time to bleed the brakes and the same thing happened. I had the car towed to the dealer and they told me that with the new ABS system in the Saturn’s you need to have the ABS computer "Reset" because you thrown it out of sync when you pass fluid through them manually especially when your doing one wheel at a time. Luckily I had AAA so the tow did not cost me anything but the dealer had to used the computer to reset that ABS module and at the same time they insisted that they bleed them again just incase there is air in the lines, otherwise I would have to pay them to reset the ABS a second time and to bleed them. Ended up costing me $128 and everything was fine after that. Took the dealer less then 45 minutes to do it. The dealer told me if your going to replace calipers or lines your better off to just replace them and then carefully drive the car to the dealer and have them bleed them. Pretty crappy that something basic like that needs to be done by the dealers. :no:

[gordinho80]

PLEASE anyone screwing around with their brakes that lives in Central NJ..call me first so I can stay off the road:D

oh don't you worry...when it comes time to have my calipers painted and install my drilled/slotted rotors...i'll be calling you alright...





FOR HELP...:D

[C6 and TBSS]

you only need the computer reset if you let the master cylinder run dry. I just removed ours on friday and powdercoated them. When removing the brakes, you can either depress the pedal in the truck first and use something to hold it depressed, as that will block off the master cylinder, or what I do, and stretch a latex glove over the m/c lid and resecure the cap to create a vacuum and minimalize leakage.

I personally use a motive bleeder now, but have done the old fashioned bleeding on probably over 15 C5 and C6 corvettes that I did installs on before I got the motive bleeder. None ever had a problem.

[big ed]

I'd recommend the Motives power bleeder to anyone for this job, makes it a snap, hardest part is taking off the wheels.[/QUOTE]

can I find a motive bleeder at pepboys or auto zone and how do u use it

[C6 and TBSS]

I'd recommend the Motives power bleeder to anyone for this job, makes it a snap, hardest part is taking off the wheels.

can I find a motive bleeder at pepboys or auto zone and how do u use it[/QUOTE]
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
instructions are on the page there. Summit racing sells them, I got mine through my wholesale provider, who also sells retail, www.cdoc.com

I highly suggest getting the late model GM adapter cap with it. What big ed said is 100% correct, taking the wheels off becomes the hard part!

[big ed]

that quote was from jimmyjam
will get one so I can paint my calipers.
thanks for the link. will help alot

[JohnnyZ28]

Just got my truck back earlier today. It was $261.44. They said I put my calipers on backwards as well. :crazy: I guess since I peeled off the "L" & "R" sticker I figured I kept them seperate... must have thrown myself off somewhere. They said it took 2 hours @ $113/hr to change out the caliper and then do a complete bleed. They said I had tons of air bubbles all the way back up to the ABS stuff.

Oh well, live and learn I guess.

[ieatglue]

:rotfl: I know I shouldn't be laughing but it's really funny lol As long as you like the brakes, then it's ok to spend some money on them :undecided

[JohnnyZ28]

It's all good. Money aint a thing...