Mobil 1 for Trucks and SUVs?

[New to TB]

When I was buying oil at Walmart I noticed they had 5qt. containers of Mobil 1 for "Trucks and SUVs".

Does anyone know if this is actually different than the normal Mobil 1? Would it be better for TB's?

I bought it and put it into my TB today, but I'd like to know if it's worth buying for the next time.

Thanks!

[MTPockets]

IMO it's a marketing gimmick more than anything, either way you cant go wrong with a M1 product. :yes: You've probably seen my stance on oil change interval. I wouldn't waste M1 if you plan on dumping it every 3/3000.

Joel

[hoezaycuervo]

I just started putting this oil in my wife's Mountaineer. I chose it because it was fully synthetic and I know Mobil 1 makes a good synthetic oil. Not sure if it is actually formulated for SUV's or if it is just a marketing ploy...:undecided

[New to TB]

I'm usually skeptical about things like this so I figured I'd ask.

I'm not sure if it cost any more than the normal stuff, a few cents/qt is anything.


FWIW, Walmart has Mobil 1 5qt jug for about $20 and our exact stock airfilter for about $14, it's a Fram 9345.

[02redhawk]

Yep, it is a different forumulation - and "better" if you can still find the T&SUV in 5w40 rating.

Go to Bobistheoilguy for gobs of reading on the various blends of M1.

[torker]

I love M1 in the winter. It does the temp. extremes way better than conventional. Do the I6 still take 7 qts.?

[New to TB]

I love M1 in the winter. It does the temp. extremes way better than conventional. Do the I6 still take 7 qts.?
Yup, I got about 6.75 qts. in her this time. The last time I was only able to get 6.25 qts. in.

[Spong]

I just M1 Truck & SUV in my dad's 04 Suburban yesterday. I've used M1 in it since new and this last time I bought the truck & SUV. Not sure if it's any different than regular M1 synthetic or not.

[New to TB]

I just M1 Truck & SUV in my dad's 04 Suburban yesterday. I've used M1 in it since new and this last time I bought the truck & SUV. Not sure if it's any different than regular M1 synthetic or not.

And the worst part is that we'll never see or feel the difference ourselves :D

[FattyTBEXT]

I put M1 SUV in when I changed my oil last month. Seems to make a little difference over the crap NTB was putting in my truck.

BTW, when I saw Fram and filter in the same sentence, I thought you meant you were using a Fram oil filter with M1. Whew. I was almost :mad: .

[Spong]

I put M1 SUV in when I changed my oil last month. Seems to make a little difference over the crap NTB was putting in my truck.

If they were using regular oil before, you'll see some difference switching to synthetic.

[hoezaycuervo]

BTW, when I saw Fram and filter in the same sentence, I thought you meant you were using a Fram oil filter with M1. Whew. I was almost :mad: .

I personally don't use FRAM filters, but wondering what the issue would be with using them with M1?:confused:

[Spong]

I personally don't use FRAM filters, but wondering what the issue would be with using them with M1?:confused:


Put it this way, if you spend the extra $$ for M1 and then use a crappy Fram filter it's kinda like putting a 2.2 I4 in a new Corvette.

[MTPockets]

I personally don't use FRAM filters, but wondering what the issue would be with using them with M1?:confused:

Absolutely no issue at all. You or your engine will never notice the difference. I don't use fram oil filters just because there are so many other choices available. Frams are a mass produced, heavily marketed, overpriced oil filter IMO. Yes they use cardboard and adhesive internals, but that does not mean they dont filter well for 3-7Kmi? Nope. Like Spong says, why run a top knotch motor oil and then throw a cheap filter on it.

Joel

[New to TB]

I put M1 SUV in when I changed my oil last month. Seems to make a little difference over the crap NTB was putting in my truck.

BTW, when I saw Fram and filter in the same sentence, I thought you meant you were using a Fram oil filter with M1. Whew. I was almost :mad: .
I am using a Fram oil filter. I got the "Tough Guard" model filter.

Other than a few people on forums saying they aren't any good, I haven't seen a problem with them.

[FattyTBEXT]

I've seen filters side-by-side cut in half, and I would never use a Fram in my truck. :no:

[Spong]

I wouldn't put a Fram filter on a $300 beater car much less the $30k plus new vehicle :x

[New to TB]

Like I said, just a couple people on the internet who don't like them. I've never seen any conclusive evidence of them being bad, and my truck runs perfectly.

If someone actually came up with something showing how bad they are I am all ears, until then it's nothing more than common brand hating and there's no need to keep beating the dead horse on what you wouldn't put it in.

[Spong]

No problem! It's not my engine!! :cool:

[ds8]

With the 7 cars my family has had during my lifetime, we have put on over 1.5million miles on Fram oil and air filters and have never had any trouble.

DS

[New to TB]

It's not my engine!! I figured a snide remark was coming, thanks for not letting me down.

With the 7 cars my family has had during my lifetime, we have put on over 1.5million miles on Fram oil and air filters and have never had any trouble.

DS Yup, I'm not that far off from you, 230K on my VW 1.8T alone.

[hoezaycuervo]

Didn't mean to open that can of worms :crazy: ....but thanks for the info!

[MTPockets]

Didn't mean to open that can of worms :crazy: ....

Hehehee.. Yeah, the oil and filter threads typically start to swirl the bowl before they hit page 2! C'mon though, your truck will *feel* sooo much better on M1 with a $10 filter at a 3Kmi oil change interval! (j/kidding) I love that one.

Joel

[Spong]

I figured a snide remark was coming, thanks for not letting me down.



Cool :thumbsup: I would hate to disappoint my fans :D

I'm just saying, if you're going to run the good oil, don't skimp on the filter. Like I said before, it's your engine do what you want.

[copocamaro427]

M1 T&SUV is really just Mobil Delvac 1 in a different bottle. Mobile Delvac 1 is Mobil's diesel oil used in semi trucks. You'll notice that on the back of the bottle that it says API CI-4+ cretified, where other Mobil1 oils are only CG certified because they're not designed to be diesel oils. M1 T&SUV and Delvac 1 are both 5W-40 oil, and carry the same certifications.

The point of M1 T&SUV is for turbodiesel truck owners -- (Cummins Rams, Powerstroke Fords, and Duramax Chevys). They can easily buy it at they're local Auto parts store, instead of needing to make a trip to a truck stop to buy diesel oil (don't even think about trying to run gas engine oil in a diesel. It wouldn't be pretty after long.)

I would recomend against M1 T&SUV unless you own a diesel because it is 5W-40 as opposed to the recomended viscosity of 5W-30. I would just stick with traditional M1 5W-30 (forget the Extended Preformance oil).

Don't worry if you've got M1 T&SUV in your turck, it's API SM sertified, just like regulat Mobil1, and meets all the latest requirments for use in gas engines, it's just a little thicker than what GM recomends.

But if you really want a thicker oil, M1 T&SUV is fine.

So --
Formulated Differently: Very Much So.
Safe to Use: Yes.
Recomended: No.

[Rob]

I too have used Fram filters for going on 30 years with no problem. I traditionally used Pennzoil, but have been using M1 on my two new cars. Mostly because it's available at a good price. Regardless of all the emotional and often unsubstantiated arguments about oil and filters, if you use the correct weight of ANY brand of oil that meets current specs, use almost any decent brand of filter, and change it all at reasonable intervals, your engine will likely last beyond the life of the car. This applies to 99.999% of drivers out there. Internal engine failures are more often the result of other factors - not changing the oil, running low on oil, overheating problems, etc.

[Spong]

I would recomend against M1 T&SUV unless you own a diesel because it is 5W-40 as opposed to the recomended viscosity of 5W-30. I would just stick with traditional M1 5W-30 (forget the Extended Preformance oil)..


The Mobil 1 Truck & SUV I put in my dad's Suburban over the weekend was 5w-30 :confused:

[FattyTBEXT]

The Mobil 1 Truck & SUV I put in my dad's Suburban over the weekend was 5w-30 :confused:

Mine is 5w-30 as well.

[Frostee]

from May of this year:

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=8731

and a copy of my post in there:

this is what I found out about the differences. Basically the truck one sounds better if you do lots of heavy load stuff:

Mobil 1 5W-30 is an ILSAC GF-4 energy conserving viscosity that provides excellent all season protection. This product also meets the requirements for diesel-powered vehicles where an API CF or CD oil is recommended.

Mobil 1 5W-30 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, including high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks.


Mobil 1 5W-30 is general purpose engine oil for all types of vehicles where a 5W-30 viscosity is recommended.
Mobil 1 is not recommended for 2-Cycle or aviation engines, unless specifically approved by the manufacturer.As are all Mobil 1 products, it is designed to provide outstanding wear protection, maintain excellent engine cleanliness, and the performance reserve to keep engines in newer cars running smooth and clean.


Now, for the truck and SUV one....



Mobil 1 Truck & SUV's key benefits include:



Extra performance additive helps provide exceptional performance under all operating conditions, and additional protection for engines that operate under heavy load or stress, including towing, hauling and other severe service.
Unique fully synthetic formula helps reduce the formation of harmful engine deposits and sludge to keep engines cleaner longer.
Outstanding performance during the maximum oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual.
Approved for use and exceeds warranty requirements for gasoline, turbocharged and diesel engines in the following applications:
ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5-04
GM 6094M
Ford WSS-M2C929-A
MS-6395Note: This product is not recommended for diesel engines. Use new Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 for diesel engines.

[Spong]

Good post Frostee! Thanks! :thumbsup:

[copocamaro427]

Whoops, it used to be that the T&SUV was for diesel trucks, but I guess it looks like thay renamed that oil to turbo diesel truck oil and then continued to move the Truck and SUV name onto another form of 5W-30 oil. Oh, I love change. :crazy:

[TBfan]

When I was buying oil at Walmart I noticed they had 5qt. containers of Mobil 1 for "Trucks and SUVs".

Does anyone know if this is actually different than the normal Mobil 1? Would it be better for TB's?

I bought it and put it into my TB today, but I'd like to know if it's worth buying for the next time.

Thanks! Is there much difference between the 12k mile Amsoil synthetic vs. the other ones. I had a tech swear by the Amsoil saying that you could go 2 years just change the filter and top off every 6k miles.

[The Black Pearl]

Back to oil filters. What is the part number for a Mobil 1 oil filter for the I6?

[Bodyslide]

From the Mobil 1 page:

Current Vehicle:
Year: 2006
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Trailblazer
Engine Type: 6cyl. 4.2Liter Vortec



Filter matches for the vehicle you selected:

Mobil 1

Mobil 1 Model M1-206

[The Black Pearl]

Thanks I tried using the Mobil 1 web site and all it gives me is the oil required.

I found where you get the filter info......

[Toyuzu]

First: My credentials.

I've owned over 30 different vehicles since I first started driving, and my dad raised me to fix 'em myself. I've paid for two oil changes. One when I had a few broken bones, and one when I first got to AK and had no access to either a place to do the work or tools to do the work with.

I've got roughly 250K miles experience driving trucks long-haul.

I drive trucks for the U.S. Army. I've managed a quick-lube for two years.

I've done my research, folks. Oil in general is a good product with minor differences between brands. A true synthetic is a significant improvement over conventional oil. Note: Not all claimed sythetics are true synthetics. The oil classification of synthetic is granted to any conventional crude oil that goes through a certain number of filtration processes. Castrol Syntec is an example of that synthetic classification. Mobil 1 however, is a true synthetic.

A lot of the new variations of oil are marketing gimmicks. There honestly is very little benefit (if any at all) over the other product.

Synthetic oil resists viscosity breakdown much better than conventional oil. It also provides greater friction reduction than conventional oil. It's more complicated that that, but the two benefits above result in greater intervals between changes, and in most cases improved fuel economy. Greater engine longevity is also probable, but as previously mentioned, These vehicles will tend to be traded or sold before the engine is even close to being worn out anyway.

For my money, in my TB I use Mobil 1 5W30 and a Fram Tough Guard.(Yes, they work fine. 400+K miles on my last heavily abused 4X4 is proof.)
I go 5000 miles between changes. Some might say that's a bit early, but remember - I'm in Alaska. Temp extremes can take a toll even on synthetic.

By the way - I haven't yet checked my fuel mileage since I did the first Mobil 1 oil change in my TB. I'm confident I will see improvement though. I switched to synth in my 2000 Cavalier after 10K miles, and saw overall fuel mileage jump from 28 MPG to 31 MPG.

Money in the bank, folks. And your engine will thank you.:m2: :m2: :m2: :m2: :m2: :m2: (I guess that was a bit more than two cents.)

One other note - You might be interested to know that most major trucking companies (the big trucks - 18 wheelers) have their oil change interval set somewhere between 20 and 50K miles, with conventional oil. The average life of a big truck diesel before an in-frame rebuild? One million miles.

[TBfan]

First: My credentials.

I've owned over 30 different vehicles since I first started driving, and my dad raised me to fix 'em myself. I've paid for two oil changes. One when I had a few broken bones, and one when I first got to AK and had no access to either a place to do the work or tools to do the work with.

I've got roughly 250K miles experience driving trucks long-haul.

I drive trucks for the U.S. Army. I've managed a quick-lube for two years.

I've done my research, folks. Oil in general is a good product with minor differences between brands. A true synthetic is a significant improvement over conventional oil. Note: Not all claimed sythetics are true synthetics. The oil classification of synthetic is granted to any conventional crude oil that goes through a certain number of filtration processes. Castrol Syntec is an example of that synthetic classification. Mobil 1 however, is a true synthetic.

A lot of the new variations of oil are marketing gimmicks. There honestly is very little benefit (if any at all) over the other product.

Synthetic oil resists viscosity breakdown much better than conventional oil. It also provides greater friction reduction than conventional oil. It's more complicated that that, but the two benefits above result in greater intervals between changes, and in most cases improved fuel economy. Greater engine longevity is also probable, but as previously mentioned, These vehicles will tend to be traded or sold before the engine is even close to being worn out anyway.

For my money, in my TB I use Mobil 1 5W30 and a Fram Tough Guard.(Yes, they work fine. 400+K miles on my last heavily abused 4X4 is proof.)
I go 5000 miles between changes. Some might say that's a bit early, but remember - I'm in Alaska. Temp extremes can take a toll even on synthetic.

By the way - I haven't yet checked my fuel mileage since I did the first Mobil 1 oil change in my TB. I'm confident I will see improvement though. I switched to synth in my 2000 Cavalier after 10K miles, and saw overall fuel mileage jump from 28 MPG to 31 MPG.

Money in the bank, folks. And your engine will thank you.:m2: :m2: :m2: :m2: :m2: :m2: (I guess that was a bit more than two cents.)

One other note - You might be interested to know that most major trucking companies (the big trucks - 18 wheelers) have their oil change interval set somewhere between 20 and 50K miles, with conventional oil. The average life of a big truck diesel before an in-frame rebuild? One million miles.

Any word on Amsoil specifically? As thats what i ended up getting. The mechanic says that "its the only one approved for use in aircraft engines" and said to be better than Amsoil XL and good for up to 24 months. Is this correct info I was given? Please help if anyone knows anything about this brand of synthetic.

[Toyuzu]

I've never personally used Amsoil, but I had several customers who did. It seems to be a very good product. Most of my Amsoil customers would come in about every 5K miles or so and have a new filter installed, then just top off with Amsoil. (Just the filter - crankcase was not drained.) Amsoil is supposed to be good for 15K+ miles. I never saw and problems with their vehicles related to oil, so it must be working. I guess I'm just old fashioned though. I could never bring myself to go more than 5K miles (and even then only with synth.) between oil changes.

[MTPockets]

..The oil classification of synthetic is granted to any conventional crude oil that goes through a certain number of filtration processes. Castrol Syntec is an example of that synthetic classification. Mobil 1 however, is a true synthetic....

Not busting bawlz, I'm no expert on this stuff, but it's got nothing to do with filtration. It has to do with the hyrdocracking or distillation process of the oil. Something like Syntec may be a GPIII highly refined mineral oil. Nothing wrong with that. Many of those do just as well, if not better than a 'true' synthetic depending on their use. M1 and some other $$ boutique synthetics are fully man made, synthesized from natural gas or the likes. Fuel mileage increase and decreased wear are bonuses that may or may not be the result of synthetic over conventional oil. OTR diesles can go 50-100Kmi on the same sump of oil because of their constant steady usage, because of their dual oil filtration systems (a bypass system AND a full flow system) and because of the huge volume of oil in the sump. I'm with you tho- If I lived in a deep freeze climate, a synthetic is all I would use.

Joel

[Blueblazed]

I have to admit I am a former Fram oil filter user. First off, I've never had an oil related failure in the 30 some years I used them. The problem I did have, is a lot of noise on start up. This is pretty well documented on various sites, especially (as some have already mentioned) on bobistheoilguy.com. I believe the problem is the anti-drainback valve easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train especially at cold startup (like I did) this is the most likely cause. After switching all my vehicles (before I bought my TB) to Motorcraft or Purolator the valve train noise disappeared and never returned.

The Fram Tough Guard are not suppose to have the same problem due to a heavy silicone anti-drainback valve with a good sealing surface. My opinion is the filtering ability of Fram filters are NOT bad, it's just you can get a just as good or better filter for the same price. I used the orange Frams on my 1995 Ford Aerostar up to around 150,000 miles. It is now at 190,000 miles and still going strong. Hope my TB will last as long and is as reliable.

[Toyuzu]

Not busting bawlz, I'm no expert on this stuff, but it's got nothing to do with filtration. It has to do with the hyrdocracking or distillation process of the oil. Something like Syntec may be a GPIII highly refined mineral oil. Nothing wrong with that. Many of those do just as well, if not better than a 'true' synthetic depending on their use. M1 and some other $$ boutique synthetics are fully man made, synthesized from natural gas or the likes. Fuel mileage increase and decreased wear are bonuses that may or may not be the result of synthetic over conventional oil. OTR diesles can go 50-100Kmi on the same sump of oil because of their constant steady usage, because of their dual oil filtration systems (a bypass system AND a full flow system) and because of the huge volume of oil in the sump. I'm with you tho- If I lived in a deep freeze climate, a synthetic is all I would use.

Joel

Fair enough. The tech guy who explained it to me basically said that Castrol Syntec is a conventional crude that goes through specific filtration processes, and other processes. (He lost me when he started using the really big words.;) ) But the point was, it is a modified crude, not a true synthetic like Mobil 1.

That's not to say it can't perform just as well though. I was just always led to believe true synth is better, but that's probably splitting hairs. I've actually used both, and the only difference I noticed was the fuel economy gain was a bit better with Mobil 1.

I have nothing against Castrol, by the way. I was a religious user of GTX before I switched to synthetic.

Oh - one other benefit to using a synthetic - you don't get the sludge build-up associated with parafin-based conventional oils.

[TBfan]

I've never personally used Amsoil, but I had several customers who did. It seems to be a very good product. Most of my Amsoil customers would come in about every 5K miles or so and have a new filter installed, then just top off with Amsoil. (Just the filter - crankcase was not drained.) Amsoil is supposed to be good for 15K+ miles. I never saw and problems with their vehicles related to oil, so it must be working. I guess I'm just old fashioned though. I could never bring myself to go more than 5K miles (and even then only with synth.) between oil changes.
Thanks Toyuzu I feel a bit better after spending that large sum and that the shop was not telling me lies.

[wayfastwhitey]

Another cheer for synthetics. I have always ran M1 in my land speed car with a System1 oil filter. Just recently I switced to Royal Purple Racing 11 for oil in that car and had an increase in RWHP. It's not yet time to change the oil in the Envoy I just purchased, but it too will be getting a version of Royal Purple, and if it will fit, a System1 filter. The filters are expensive, but you only have to buy one! Full synthetics are the only way to go in todays OHC and roller lifter engines.

Just a FYI, if you have an older flat tappet pushrod motor, conventional oils of today will increase the wear on the cam lobe and lifter. if you use conventional on these engines, ONLY use diesel oils such as Delo and Rotella. Due to EPA regulations, oils designed for gas engines no longer contain a certain additive that helps prevent cam wear. The diesel oil, however, still have good ammounts of the additive and will save your camshaft. OHC and Roller lifter motors need not worry, just flat tappets.

[Aerostud1026]

Now heres my cents.....


I feel that this thread and ANY oil/filter thread gets turned inside out with users opinions. Some people feel that Mobil 1 and taking the intervals way up to 8k or whatever your pleasure is the real way to go...Others feel that changing their oil every 3k most of which using conventional oil is the way to go also.

Its all a matter of opinions....I do however feel that the 3k oil change interval isnt just a marketing gimmick. Although im not a religious believer in it either....Im sure there is some truth to it....The last board I was a frequent poster/user was the Lincoln Mark VIII board ( http://www.markviii.org ) ....Its a great board...everybody there felt if you use conventional oil change it out every 3-4k and if you use M-1 change it out every 5-6k. These guys aren't just joe schmo's either who listen to Jiffy Lube commercials all day...they are real cars guys like most of you on this board.

So its just a matter of opinion.........If some people think 3k with convential oil is the way to go........thats fine.......if some people think 5k-8k with M-1 is the way to go......thats great.....the way I feel.......either way is 6 and a half dozen to the next.....the results....will most likely be similiar.


PS. I know this isnt really a M-1 vs. Conventional thread....but since it talks heavily about M-1 with some convential posts....I felt it should be good here.

[MTPockets]

....The last board I was a frequent poster/user was the Lincoln Mark VIII board .....everybody there felt if you use conventional oil change it out every 3-4k and if you use M-1 change it out every 5-6k. These guys aren't just joe schmo's either who listen to Jiffy Lube commercials all day...they are real cars guys like most of you on this board..

What was the basis for their oil change interval recommendations? Lube related engine issues? Used oil analysis data? If it's neither of those, add this to the opinion pile.

Joel

[MTPockets]

..Just a FYI, if you have an older flat tappet pushrod motor, conventional oils of today will increase the wear on the cam lobe and lifter. if you use conventional on these engines...

Not entirely correct. It is not a matter of synthetic vs. convention oil, it's using the proper viscosity range for the application. A synthetic oil in the wrong viscosity range for the application could wear a flat tappet valvetrain as well.

Joel

[RayVoy]

The mobil web site gives the following info re changes:
Mobil 1, follow the owners manual
Mobil 1 extend perforance, every 15,000 mi or once a year.

A far as filters are concerned, look at their page
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Filter_Change_Interval_Mobil1_EP.aspx

[Aerostud1026]

What was the basis for their oil change interval recommendations? Lube related engine issues? Used oil analysis data? If it's neither of those, add this to the opinion pile.

Joel


Well first of all, as far as oil change interval recommendations....They would rather run good oil for 3-4 or 5-6k than try and stretch out the intervals with M-1 or god help us conventional oil....Some members took the time and trouble to ship out samples to Blackstone some results came back great..others came back bad....Oil gets old....and theres not much we can do about that.....Thats why in our TB owners manual that it reads If your change engine oil light hasnt came on in a year, change the oil anyway....regardless of the miles....

Lube related engine issues? Not any different issues than a Honda, Ford, BMW, VW or Vette would have.....

Used oil analysis data.......Like I said some members shipped samples off to Blackstone Labs to test the oil......Alot of people came back with samples of M-1 clocked at 10k-12k and said the oil was "worn out".....Showed signs of increased viscosity leading to engine wear.....and they said the oil should have been changed out around 7-8k.

NOW before I go further.....every car is different....so Im sure there would be different results for different cars....actually this test I was talking about was from a 99 GMC with a 5.3 V8.


I was just trying to point out the various opinions everybody has about Oil and change intervals....Obviously people have their own opinions and will stick with them, and thats great....I just was trying to point that fact out.....and My opinion is.....Conventional or Synthetic....as long as the intervals arent too drastic and drug out for extended periods of miles/time....everything should be fine.

[MTPockets]

..I was just trying to point out the various opinions everybody has about Oil and change intervals....Obviously people have their own opinions and will stick with them, and thats great....I just was trying to point that fact out...

I'm with ya. I don't see the value in stretching ~7qts of oil out to a rediculous amount of miles, nor do I see the value of a UOA for an automotve application. Why pay $30+ for a basic UOA when you can just do an oil change! Our trucks see different fuels, oils, different ambient temps, different driving conditions and drivers. No way to get accurate data. A tractor-trailer with a 20gal oil sump and a $20000 engine? I can see a UOA as useful. At work we draw oil samples on our million dollar compressors with 1000gal oil sumps. Again, useful stuff.

Joel

[Blueblazed]

I do however feel that the 3k oil change interval isnt just a marketing gimmick. Although im not a religious believer in it either....Im sure there is some truth to it....The last board I was a frequent poster/user was the Lincoln Mark VIII board ( http://www.markviii.org ) ....Its a great board...everybody there felt if you use conventional oil change it out every 3-4k and if you use M-1 change it out every 5-6k. These guys aren't just joe schmo's either who listen to Jiffy Lube commercials all day...they are real cars guys like most of you on this board.

So its just a matter of opinion.........If some people think 3k with convential oil is the way to go........thats fine.......if some people think 5k-8k with M-1 is the way to go......thats great.....the way I feel.......either way is 6 and a half dozen to the next.....the results....will most likely be similiar.




I have to strongly disagree with one thing you said. I believe 3K (in MOST cases) IS nothing more than marketing hype or people who have changed their oil every 3K by force of habit or because someone they trust told them it was the thing to do. I doubt that any "real cars guys" know more about oil testing than the major car makers. There are very few manufacturers that will tell you to change your oil every 3K. Vehicles have changed a lot even in the last 20-25 years, much more so in the last 50 years, and a lot of people are still going on what they were told in 1950!

As Joel mentioned, most of it is opinions. I think it's safe to say no one has done more oil testing than GM, FORD, TOYOTA, HONDA, etc. Just about all of them bring their vehicles to Death Valley for testing - where 120+ degree temperatures are the norm. If the manufacturer tells you to change oil at 5K, 7.5k, 10K or follow the oil life monitor, that is the thing to do. As someone said before, if you decide to go a different mileage than the recommended one, YOU are doing the testing.

I hear a lot of people say "I always change my oil at 3K and I've never had an oil related failure." Uh, huh. What does that prove? My personal experience - in early 1997 I bought a 1995 Ford Aerostar with the 4.0 engine and roughly 15,000 miles on it.

I used Valvoline Synthetic for about the first 100,000K or so, then changed to Valvoline All Climate, and then to Durablend. I tried Castrol Syn. once and it didn't seem to run as well. Butt dyno results only!

Right now it has 190,000 miles on it, and runs like it did when I bought it. The body is starting to fall apart, but mechanically it is sound. On a recent trip to Phoenix (400 miles one way) the gas mileage was the same, and it still uses about 1/2 - 3/4 a quart of oil between oil changes. Ford recommends 5K oil changes for normal service, 3K for "severe" I tried to do 5K, but in life do do happens, and usually I was closer to 7 or 8K - occasionally 10K between changes. Point is - if 3K oil changes are "necessary for engine longevity" why has this vehicle lasted so long? California has some of the toughest smog standards to pass in the nation, and every two years it passes with no problem whatsoever! I have recorded on my computer every maintenance item I have done on this vehicle since the day I bought it. The only repairs done to this vehicle (besides 3 sets of tires and numerous sets of brakes) are 2 batteries, 1 o2 sensor (in preparation for last year's smog test), a TPS sensor, and 2 PCV valves.

As Joel said it isn't hurting anything to change your oil every 3k, and for some people it is cheap entertainment, but in reality it is a huge waste of money and resources.

On Mobil's web site, for the warranty for their Clean 5000 oil, they state:
"For vehicles covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual." Remember Mobil Clean 5000 is not a synthetic or synthetic blend.

My advice is if you really want piece of mind, send a sample of your oil to Blackstone. Start at 3K, then 5K, etc. GM has already done this, but if it makes you feel better go do it.

Correct me if I wrong - Joel and others, but didn't most people at Bobistheoilguy that sent samples into Blackstone get very favorable results and recommendations that they could go more mileage?

As with everything there are exceptions. Classic example: my wife has a 2005 Camry that she drives about 5000-6000 miles a year. I change the oil twice a year on it, or roughly every 3K. Under these circumstances I agree with 3K, but for most people it is not necessary.

[Aerostud1026]

I have to strongly disagree with one thing you said. I believe 3K (in MOST cases) IS nothing more than marketing hype or people who have changed their oil every 3K by force of habit or because someone they trust told them it was the thing to do. I doubt that any "real cars guys" know more about oil testing than the major car makers. There are very few manufacturers that will tell you to change your oil every 3K. Vehicles have changed a lot even in the last 20-25 years, much more so in the last 50 years, and a lot of people are still going on what they were told in 1950!

As Joel mentioned, most of it is opinions. I think it's safe to say no one has done more oil testing than GM, FORD, TOYOTA, HONDA, etc. Just about all of them bring their vehicles to Death Valley for testing - where 120+ degree temperatures are the norm. If the manufacturer tells you to change oil at 5K, 7.5k, 10K or follow the oil life monitor, that is the thing to do. As someone said before, if you decide to go a different mileage than the recommended one, YOU are doing the testing.

I hear a lot of people say "I always change my oil at 3K and I've never had an oil related failure." Uh, huh. What does that prove? My personal experience - in early 1997 I bought a 1995 Ford Aerostar with the 4.0 engine and roughly 15,000 miles on it.

I used Valvoline Synthetic for about the first 100,000K or so, then changed to Valvoline All Climate, and then to Durablend. I tried Castrol Syn. once and it didn't seem to run as well. Butt dyno results only!

Right now it has 190,000 miles on it, and runs like it did when I bought it. The body is starting to fall apart, but mechanically it is sound. On a recent trip to Phoenix (400 miles one way) the gas mileage was the same, and it still uses about 1/2 - 3/4 a quart of oil between oil changes. Ford recommends 5K oil changes for normal service, 3K for "severe" I tried to do 5K, but in life do do happens, and usually I was closer to 7 or 8K - occasionally 10K between changes. Point is - if 3K oil changes are "necessary for engine longevity" why has this vehicle lasted so long? California has some of the toughest smog standards to pass in the nation, and every two years it passes with no problem whatsoever! I have recorded on my computer every maintenance item I have done on this vehicle since the day I bought it. The only repairs done to this vehicle (besides 3 sets of tires and numerous sets of brakes) are 2 batteries, 1 o2 sensor (in preparation for last year's smog test), a TPS sensor, and 2 PCV valves.

As Joel said it isn't hurting anything to change your oil every 3k, and for some people it is cheap entertainment, but in reality it is a huge waste of money and resources.

On Mobil's web site, for the warranty for their Clean 5000 oil, they state:
"For vehicles covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual." Remember Mobil Clean 5000 is not a synthetic or synthetic blend.

My advice is if you really want piece of mind, send a sample of your oil to Blackstone. Start at 3K, then 5K, etc. GM has already done this, but if it makes you feel better go do it.

Correct me if I wrong - Joel and others, but didn't most people at Bobistheoilguy that sent samples into Blackstone get very favorable results and recommendations that they could go more mileage?

As with everything there are exceptions. Classic example: my wife has a 2005 Camry that she drives about 5000-6000 miles a year. I change the oil twice a year on it, or roughly every 3K. Under these circumstances I agree with 3K, but for most people it is not necessary.


Blueblazed....Thanks for your input but I may think were confused.....What you quoted and hilighted is correct.....but is no way my opinion on changing oil now.....in the last thread you convinced me of this.....but Im still holding my grounds.....when I mean....I dont believe that changing the oil every 3K is a 100% marketing gimmick.....it may have a very strong influence but Im sure theres some shred of evidence to support its claims....with the way oil has advanced these days you could def exceed way beyond 3,000 miles......but the old change the oil every 3K is still in 96% of Americans minds....and we will NEVER get away from that...

Thats all I was saying.....Im not a religious believer in the 3,000 mile rule....at least not anymore

[Blueblazed]

Blueblazed....Thanks for your input but I may think were confused.....What you quoted and hilighted is correct.....but is no way my opinion on changing oil now.....in the last thread you convinced me of this.....but Im still holding my grounds.....when I mean....I dont believe that changing the oil every 3K is a 100% marketing gimmick.....it may have a very strong influence but Im sure theres some shred of evidence to support its claims....with the way oil has advanced these days you could def exceed way beyond 3,000 miles......but the old change the oil every 3K is still in 96% of Americans minds....and we will NEVER get away from that...

Thats all I was saying.....Im not a religious believer in the 3,000 mile rule....at least not anymore

Okay, I hear you. It could be I had another gray moment here! :D I would just be interested to know what the "shred of evidence to support its claims" is!
I'm not sure we will "never get away from 3,000 miles", but I think it will take a while - quite a while. Probably at least a decade, but probably more like two or three decades!
Most of what I was trying to say is that there really isn't any proof for the 3k, it is opinion. For there to be proof, at the very least someone would have to have identical vehicles, and change the oil in one at 3K, and the other at manufacturers recommendations. Then after let's say 200K miles compare the results.

[MTPockets]

...didn't most people at Bobistheoilguy that sent samples into Blackstone get very favorable results and recommendations that they could go more mileage?

True, if you look over the UOA, prettly much all of them (on healthy engines) show low enough numbers that the oil could be safely used longer. Dino or synthetic. What cracks me up is the owners that paid for analysis of M1 after 3-5Kmi!!! Duhhhh??? Ya think it's gonna be good?:rolleyes:

Joel

[Blueblazed]

What cracks me up is the owners that paid for analysis of M1 after 3-5Kmi!!! Duhhhh??? Ya think it's gonna be good?:rolleyes:

Joel

EXACTLY :iagree: The only possible reason I could think of is if you are worried about having antifreeze in your oil.

[chief1321]

If you change your oil every 3/3000 any name brand oil will work. As far as if you should change it this often is your own preference.

[Blueblazed]

If you change your oil every 3/3000 any name brand oil will work. As far as if you should change it this often is your own preference.


True, and if you want to flush money down the toilet that's your option as well!