Sway bar end links [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

tblazed

09-16-2006, 04:55 PM

If you have an '02 they are worn out. My fronts were rattling at less than 15k miles. Sounded like the front suspension was falling apart. You can get the links at any parts place that sells Moog parts. 6665, 6666 Fronts, 6667, 6668 rears are the Moog part numbers. Ease is relative... sometimes the original hardware gets corroded and can be difficult to get off. I did all 4 of mine in about an hour and a half in the driveway, but mine weren't corroded either. Do a search and you will find lots of info, what tools to use, etc., and you will need a grease gun to pre-lube them because they come dry.

BluavalancheZ71

09-16-2006, 11:03 PM

I agree more than likely sway bar links. Also get a can of penetrating oil too to help in the R&R.

Well he got lucky with doing his in about an hour in his driveway. I did not mine at work on the hoist and has to take a death wheel to all 4 of them to get them off, But overall still only about a 2 hour job.

JuicedTB

09-17-2006, 12:53 AM

Thanks for the info. I went to my local autoparts store and they ordered them for me. I should have them for before next weekend. I hope that this does the trick.....

pontiacguy

09-17-2006, 11:57 PM

I just received the same MOOG links for my 02 Envoy. Also ordered HD Bilsteins. My mechanic looked underneith and says bushings are still good, but he is concerned about lower control arm movement. Has anybody had/heard of lower control arm issues? (other than the initial batch of 02's that were recalled-mine was built later than those)

JuicedTB

09-29-2006, 01:21 AM

I replaced the end links and that cured the noise problem with my TB. It also made the TB feel a little tighter. Thanks to those that helped me out....

RichD

10-02-2006, 10:16 AM

How can I tell if the end links are shot?? Mine is an 02, and makes a horrible clunking whenever you make a turn with the wheel turned all the way to either side.

Thanks
-Rich

ylab

10-02-2006, 10:28 AM

If the noise only occurs with the wheels turned all the way left or right, there may not be anything wrong with your truck. The steering geometry on our trucks allows the wheels to turn just slightly farther than they probably should and if you take a bump with the wheel turned against the stop you'll hear an awful noise.....mine has done it since new. Problem is that 99% of turns aren't with the wheels on the stop, so it doesn't occur and when it does, it scares the hell out of you the first time or two.

If you're getting a strange half clunk and half metalic sounding noise when turning and taking a bump, with the wheels just turned say to pull up a driveway, then you may have a bad lower control arm bushing. Its makes a pingy, metalic noise when they're shot......my passenger side had to be replaced earlier this year at around 29000 miles. - Seems like its always the passenger side suspension that needs work. (Thank God for extended warranties!)

If you get a rattle or light clunky noise on most small bumps, you're links are most likely shot or have become loose! I've been ready to replace mine twice now, since the dealer did at 12000-13000 miles, and both times the passenger side upper mount just needed to be tighted a bit. For those experiencing the typical rattling or light clunking noise associated with endlinks, make sure they're tight before you go and replace them....they have to be real tight or you get noise, snug doesn't do it! (You'll need a 6mm allen wrench and a 28mm open socket/ratcheting box wrench to check/tighten/replace). If you're replacing the end links, might as well replace the front bushings at the same time for a more controlled ride, they tend to rot a bit over time being rubber.

njseadooer

10-02-2006, 09:08 PM

How can I tell if the end links are shot?? Mine is an 02, and makes a horrible clunking whenever you make a turn with the wheel turned all the way to either side.

Thanks
-Rich

Turn the wheel so that you can see your end links
Push down on your fender (just a little bit) as you watch the end link joints, if you see it move thats your problem!

My 03 sounded like it was falling appart with every bump that I went over.

Blazin

10-05-2006, 06:12 PM

tblazed

10-05-2006, 06:32 PM

I just went outside and kicked the stabelizer bar on the passenger side and it rattled. Then I kicked the drivers side of the stabelizer and it was stiff, no rattle. I guess thats a good way to find out if the link is worn.
So now I know I need the end link for the passenger side.

I recommend the Moog links #6665, 6666 for the fronts, about $25 ea. I put these on my '02 and replaced the rears too while I was at it (6667, 6668). They are steel not aluminum and have grease fittings. If one side is worn out enough to rattle whe you kick it, the other is surely about as worn out.

Tpoppa

10-05-2006, 07:35 PM

ghoster

10-05-2006, 07:42 PM

What does it sound like if the sway bar end links are going bad?

My 04 TB 4x4 makes a slight chirp or squeak on bumpy roads that I believe it's coming from the front suspension. Could that be the end links or something else?

The end links would rattle on bumps. Squeaks and shirps could be hundreds of things. Put a little grease on the rubber stops that the hood rests on when it is closed. Thats one I have seen happen. Push down on your front bumber to see if you can recreate teh noise. Sometimes the front bumper cover will rub against the metal fender and cause a little squeak. Just figured this on out.:D Like I said though, their are a bunch of places that can squeak.:cool:

Frostee

10-27-2006, 09:26 PM

are these the end links? (sorry, im not mechanically inclined ;) )

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k5/frostee_ltz/link.jpg

Blazin

10-27-2006, 10:03 PM

Thats it. :iagree:

Frostee

10-27-2006, 11:26 PM

Thats it. :iagree:

excellent... i think... at least now i know whats going clunk in my front end...

k, doing some fast searching, this is a fairly cheap part (what i saw was in the range of 25$ or so each)... does that sound right?

Frostee

10-29-2006, 01:29 AM

ok, now imma REALLY sound dumb here, but its better to ask and sound dumb than not ask and be dumb... ;)

what exactly do sway bar end links do (what are they for)?

Flawsey_Bee

10-29-2006, 05:55 AM

ok, now imma REALLY sound dumb here, but its better to ask and sound dumb than not ask and be dumb... ;)

what exactly do sway bar end links do (what are they for)?

:confused: I need to know this info too !

nheidmann

10-29-2006, 10:16 PM

they attach your swaybar to you knuckles... which one part number is the passenger front? anyone? thanks..

ZTBSS

11-20-2006, 02:24 PM

I'm getting this bothersome noise from my front end as well and my '02 TB is still under warranty (extended-just barely). Should I just get them to replace the parts that I'm sure they will find that are worn with the original ones or replace with these Moog ones? Buy them and ask them to replace with the upgraded one?

tblazed

11-20-2006, 03:16 PM

I think they have improved the quality or useful life a bit since the '02s were built. If you can get the OEM type replaced with your warranty I would do that. Then in another few years if you still have the TB and they start making racket put on the Moogs.

ZTBSS

11-20-2006, 04:20 PM

Perfect! thanks, I'll be going to the dealership this week or asap! :)

jproell2

11-22-2006, 10:06 AM

Well, I have an 04 TB and have had the squeeking front suspension for about 3 months now. It has been to the dealership 3 different times. First, they said it was the steering shaft and replaced it. I came back 2 days later and told them that the new steering shaft did not fix the problem. At that time I told them about the sway bar end links or bushings. On my second trip to the dealership they replaced the sway bars. Two days later the sqeeking returned. Today, my 3rd trip to the dealership they indicated that the sway bar end links and bushings are on back order from GM. The dealer stated that GM has some nationwide problem with these parts. Could there be a redesign in the works?

xceebeex

11-22-2006, 11:29 AM

I have this problem on my Bravada I am assuming since I have the clunking noise when I go over bumps so I just went ahead and ordered some Moog replacements from Amazon of all places. (It came out cheaper since the other places charge more for shipping and handling)

My question is, does anyone have any pics or anything of how you greased everything before you put them in? I don't currently have a grease gun and would like to avoid buying one just for this job if I can. (Yes, I tried searching)

Thanks

tblazed

11-22-2006, 12:02 PM

how you greased everything before you put them in? I don't currently have a grease gun and would like to avoid buying one just for this job if I can. (Yes, I tried searching)

Thanks

You will need to grease them through the grease fittings with pressure to force the grease completely through the joints. Maybe take them to a quickie-lube place and have them squirt grease in for you?

I pre-greased mine and worked the joints around to distribute the grease thoroughly before I installed them. Didn't want any dry spots to start.

xceebeex

11-22-2006, 12:11 PM

You will need to grease them through the grease fittings with pressure to force the grease completely through the joints. Maybe take them to a quickie-lube place and have them squirt grease in for you?

I pre-greased mine and worked the joints around to distribute the grease thoroughly before I installed them. Didn't want any dry spots to start.

How expensive is a decent grease gun? I guess I could pick one up if need be. Thanks for the help.

tblazed

11-22-2006, 12:44 PM

How expensive is a decent grease gun? I guess I could pick one up if need be. Thanks for the help.

$10-$15 range, plus a few dollars for a tube of grease. I used Lucas "Red N Tacky #2" in mine but there's Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Texaco-Havoline, Castrol, WalMart's Super Tech to name a few. A marine-grade grease would be good in this application too since there's sometimes lots of water splashing on those joints. Might now get under there and squirt some Liquid Wrench etc on the nuts so that can be soaking in while you wait for the links to show up. Some guys have had problems getting the old ones off with parts being rusted and seized. Good Luck with it!

xceebeex

11-22-2006, 12:54 PM

Might now get under there and squirt some Liquid Wrench etc on the nuts so that can be soaking in while you wait for the links to show up. Some guys have had problems getting the old ones off with parts being rusted and seized. Good Luck with it!

Thanks, yea, I am gonna spray some PB Blaster on all the parts that way it has plenty of time to work its magic.

coolcloo1019

11-22-2006, 01:56 PM

I have an '02 and had to replace my front end links about a month ago. I was reading on another site that it was taking people hours to do it. I replaced my brake pads and the end links in about an hour or so. Very easy. Even though none of the nuts were seized up, I plastered them with PB Blaster just for a safe measure. Also, my Moog end links came pre-greased. I guess you could always throw some more in there, wouldn't hurt I guess. Wait till you replace them, it's like a whole new truck. :D When you take out the stock ones and compare them to the Moog's you'll laugh, they are a plastic/hard rubber material.

MichEnvoyBoy

11-24-2006, 09:37 PM

Bearcat

11-25-2006, 09:30 AM

Proper torque wrench removes all guesswork. Worth the cost, watch Sears for sales on Craftsman.

tblazed

11-25-2006, 09:52 AM

Yep torqued mine to spec and they haven't come loose. Been almost a year, no problems.

MichEnvoyBoy

11-25-2006, 12:10 PM

Proper torque wrench removes all guesswork. Worth the cost, watch Sears for sales on Craftsman.

Thanks. I added it to my Christmas list :D

dshields

11-27-2006, 09:32 PM

All four links were bad on my 03 SLT in less than 30,00 miles. They were replaced under warranty and with 70,000 now seem to still be ok. When they go bad there is no problem with figuring out that something is wrong. It rattles like the whole bottom of the truck is about to fall off. I had my side nerf bars off 5 times trying to find the rattle before I figured out what it was.

CrazyFazy

11-28-2006, 06:58 AM

How many inch pounds do they get tightened to for us that do not need them replaced but just want to check?

xceebeex

12-15-2006, 09:57 AM

How many inch pounds do they get tightened to for us that do not need them replaced but just want to check?

Its 74 foot pounds, which is 888 inch pounds.

I just replaced my front two last night and what a difference. No more noise in the front. Its definitely a pain removing the sway bar by yourself and trying to put it back on by yourself too though!

Anyway, I think the rears might be going bad too, are the rears any more difficult to do?

coolcloo1019

12-15-2006, 10:05 AM

Its 74 foot pounds, which is 888 inch pounds.

I just replaced my front two last night and what a difference. No more noise in the front. Its definitely a pain removing the sway bar by yourself and trying to put it back on by yourself too though!

Anyway, I think the rears might be going bad too, are the rears any more difficult to do?

You took down your whole sway bar to replace the fronts? All I did was take off the 2 nuts, take out the link, put the new one in and tighten it up.

As for the rears, I just got my rears in the mail yesterday. I was going to do them last night but it was raining. It looks like they will be even easier than the fronts.

xceebeex

12-15-2006, 10:48 AM

You took down your whole sway bar to replace the fronts? All I did was take off the 2 nuts, take out the link, put the new one in and tighten it up.

As for the rears, I just got my rears in the mail yesterday. I was going to do them last night but it was raining. It looks like they will be even easier than the fronts.

Yea, I had a hard time getting the nuts off on the sway bar part of the end link so I just said screw it and dropped the whole sway bar and it was a lot easier to get them off . It was definitely a pain putting the damn bar back on though by myself. Its not exactly the lightest thing ever and its an awkward shape too.

I will probably order the rears and do them over my vacation between Christmas and New Years. Luckily I have a garage so it doesn't matter if its raining or snowing. Hopefully the rears are a little easier, although the fronts weren't really that hard, but easier is always nice.

Bearcat

12-15-2006, 02:09 PM

As for the rears, I just got my rears in the mail yesterday. I was going to do them last night but it was raining. It looks like they will be even easier than the fronts.
Except for the driver's side right next to the gas tank. Excercise some patience and you'll be good!

scd0196

12-26-2006, 05:14 PM

I just got done installing my new Moog sway bar end links for the front. What a pain in the A**! I think what helped out was that I totally soaked the end link nuts in Liquid Wrench last night, so they had all night to do its job. I used the 7mm alen wrench socket tip on the end link bolt and the 13/16" wrench for the nut, and they came off relativley easy. Both end links were very loose, no wonder they were so noisy going over all of the bumps in the road.
All in all, not a bad mod. I had the old ones off, and the new Moog ones installed in about a hour and 15 minutes. I put the grease fittings on the end links before I installed them, a lot easier that way.
The new Moog end links make a world of difference in handling. My Envoy handles like it should now. All I need now is a grease gun, some grease...wash my clothes, and I will be good to go! :D

scd0196

01-03-2007, 09:00 PM

OK, so last week I replaced my stock (junk) front sway bar end links with the Moog links. Torqued them to the 74 foot lbs and now they are just as noisy as before! :mad: I do have the Hotchkis rear sway bar with the stock rear end links, could the rears be the noise now, even though it sounds like its coming from the front? If so, how hard are the rear end links to swap out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bearcat

01-04-2007, 08:02 AM

tblazed

01-04-2007, 09:51 AM

The new Moog end links make a world of difference...All I need now is a grease gun, some grease...wash my clothes, and I will be good to go!.....

OK, so last week I replaced my stock (junk) front sway bar end links with the Moog links. Torqued them to the 74 foot lbs and now they are just as noisy as before!

Did you grease them before you drove with them? If not they are probably ruined now. From your earlier message sounds like you didn't have any way to grease them first, if you didn't have grease or a grease gun. My Moogs have been on well over a year and no noise.

scd0196

01-04-2007, 07:55 PM

Did you grease them before you drove with them? If not they are probably ruined now. From your earlier message sounds like you didn't have any way to grease them first, if you didn't have grease or a grease gun. My Moogs have been on well over a year and no noise.

I checked underneith the rubber boots on the Moogs before I installed them and they already had grease in them, and I got them torqued, and re-greased 2 days later, I really didn't drive it the day after I installed them just around the block. I think that it could be the rear stock end links, especially since I have the Hotchkis sway bar. I am going to keep checking this until I solve it because, having a noisy car is one of my pet pieves.:mad:

sdhsg

01-05-2007, 02:05 PM

i just had my sway bars links replaced on my 04 TB @ 25K.

stopher2

02-08-2009, 06:04 PM

just did the job on my LS 2003 trailblazer. The fronts were difficult, but not impossible. I DID NOT use liquid wrench...and the allen wrench stripped the stock bolts. Thank God for Sawzall ! The moogs at least have a counter turn screw...all you need is an open face wrench.
The rears are very difficult because of the approach is from behind and below. Removal is challenging;you only get 1-2 click equivalents with the wrench.

INVEST IN A 90degree allen wrench socket adapter for a rachet ! :)
You also can use a propane torch to warm up the nuts before you do it to soften up the lining plastic. DON'T BURN THE GAS TANK. :eek:

Spicers tie ends in the back and moog on the front. i als changed the front sway bushings adding some marine grease to keep them pliable in the future.

I have 3/4 of the job done. got dark and I swear not to do car work with a flashlight. Besides, my patience with the sawzall is run out.

I've invested 2 hours per wheel. That turns out to be 30 minutes per bolt. Don't underestimate the assinitity of GM. The allen wrench counter turn on these is VERY DIFFICLULT. My recommendation above is worth it...along with liquid wrench you might get past my challenges.

stopher2

05-17-2009, 05:04 PM

Just a friendly reminder to DIY'ers on this job - be sure to properly tighten the new end links -tighten them down reaallllll GOOD. Otherwise in a few thousand miles they will loosen and you'll be beating yourself trying to figure out what the noise is because you "just replaced your end links and they still have very little play in them" ;)

Be sure to put liberal amounts of LockTite on the threads to minimize vibration movement and loosening. I've had to retighten my front Links 4 times, because I did't torque them enough.

Also, i've heard they don't come lubed; so you want to lube them BEFORE you install them.

you don't even have to raise the TB. That's how easy the job is.

You might leave penetrating oil on the old ones for a couple of days before you remove them. they do get pretty rusty. Alternatively you may need to sawzall the old end links off or use a nut splitter. I had striped out my alen holes.

tomas216

05-27-2009, 11:30 PM

i just did my fronts tonight. i have 130,000 on my 03 envoy and i live in minnesota so they were rusty, but i thought it went well. the nylon locking nuts come right off when you heat them up. i didnt strip either side with the allen wrench when i heated them up. just make sure to use a piece of flat iron as a heat shield for all the rubber boots nearby. also, a swivel, and a 6" extension on your 18 mm socket works wonders on the back bolt. i also replaced the sway bar bushings and found that the stock ones were 46 mm, that coverts to 1.81". i had already ordered the 1.72" size, so i decided to put them on anyway being a bit small, they snugged up ok. the ones i took off didnt look that bad. the end links i torqued down to 74 ft/lb, per instructions. i'll check them in a week. i used all moog parts, the end links were pre greased but i greased them a bit more to fill it up and then worked it around till i couldnt feel metal on metal. the new zerks were a pain to thread in, it takes a 9/32 socket. i cant believe how much better my envoy feels, going over railroad tracks, and bumpy roads, feels like a new car. i have the rear end links sitting on the bench, im gonna put them in next week.

bojanglespa

05-31-2009, 02:41 PM

I also have noticed a clunking over bumps near the passenger side, will check the rear links to see if there is play also. My wife thinks it is coming from in the door but I think it is further back.

rousch6

08-20-2009, 07:30 PM

This website is GREAT!!! I have been having chirps for weeks. I have been avoiding it because I was scared of what I might find. But then I read the thread about the HOOD MOUNTS. I went right outside and rocked my 03TB and chirp, chirp, chirp and chirp it went. I popped the hood and used some bearing grease and just rubbed on the hood stops and the hood and guess what?? No more chirps!!!!!! Thanks guys and gals!!!!!!!!!!!:crazy:

njseadooer

08-23-2009, 11:03 AM

I replaced the rears on my 03 Envoy 2 weeks ago with Moog's (yes I greased them). Everything was great and now at least 1 is clunking again. Could something be causing premature wear, or did I get a bad link?

I did the fronts 3 years ago(with moog) and they are still fine.

Chickenhawk

08-23-2009, 01:26 PM

Retorque the nuts. They need to be quite tight (74 ft/lbs) and can loosen in the first few weeks. I used blue Loctite on mine and never had a problem.

If they are tight, it might be they were defective from the factory (rare) or they are simply exacerbating a problem that was previously masked by the bad links. Maybe check out the sway bar bushings and control arm bushings.

njseadooer

08-24-2009, 06:29 PM

You were right, they came loose.
I had my mechanic install them since they were so rusted, I just assumed that he torqued them correctly.

Thanks
Craig

crazybos

11-15-2009, 10:00 PM

I bought the Moogs that everyone recommends 30K ago. I grease fairly regularly. They are shot again, didn;t last as long as the OEM. I just bought and installed the Suspension Max End Links. I like the design and you don't need any special tools. Once I was able to get the Moogs off the NEW Suspension Max SMX-K666F and SMX-K666R were easy to install and are very nice. They are great so far. I will not have to replace them again for a LONG time. They were pricey, but I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for. Check them out, well worth it. :thumbsup:

Bearcat

11-16-2009, 08:33 AM

I had the factory installed stabilizer links replaced with Moogs at 75,500, then had to replace the fronts back to GM at 109,500. They have been great on the front to date (181,000). Rear Moogs have stayed in great shape. A post a while back indicated that the Moog front links were not right for theapplication, hence the early failure. I'm happy with the OEM parts.:thumbsup:

the_bull2009

11-16-2009, 08:57 AM

I had the same problem but it was fixed after ordering from discountautoparts.com They sent me Moog sway bar links. No problems as of yet. I also replaced the drivers side upper and lower ball joints which helped the drivers side wheel from shaking. The fun part about this repair was taking the old ones off. Every single one had to be grinded off because the OEM sway bar links were rusted and they stripped when I tried to take them off. Oh yeah the drivers side rear was especially fun because the gas tank is in the perfect spot to inhibit easy removal and install.
Also, ya'll were talking about noise when you steer. I have the same problem too. But since ya'll say its nothing to really worry about, I wont worry about it either.