Long Tru-Cool LPD Transmission Coolers

[The Black Pearl]

Anyone using this type of transmission cooler on there TB and which one? I was quoted a price of $250 (Canadian) installed.

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml

[blu ya]

Looks like the one I have from Summitracing.com. I like it and the size was just perfect for placement in front of the grill. Heres the link;

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D70264&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Everything in the pic is what you get as does the one your looking at.

I have pics of it installed in my gallery, I need to update it though, I did some mod. to the hoses for better fitment and reliability.:cool:

[AlekG]

Anyone using this type of transmission cooler on there TB and which one? I was quoted a price of $250 (Canadian) installed.

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml

Yes, looks eerily similar to my B&M 9800 BTU SuperCooler I have had installed for more than 2 years now, no problems.

AG

[The Black Pearl]

I read that this company makes the B&M. I have to get it installed by a transmission shop or GM. I have an extended warranty that could be voided. When I talked to GM's first line of support they would not answer the question and I got a little frustrated with them. I asked them to send me an email with a definitive answer.

I sent this email to GM.

"Would having a transmission cooler installed by a CAA approved garage void my warranty. The 1-800 number that I had received by your rep is not valid in my area. Please respond via email. "

This was the response

Thank you for your patience.

I have reviewed with our Technical Assistance for information on your vehicle towing inquiry.
response:

Weight-Distributing Hitch
The maximum gross trailer weight for this vehicle is 2177 kg (4800 lb) with a maximum tongue load of 218 kg (480 lb).
The base cooling system on this vehicle includes all the content required to attain the maximum trailer rating.

Thank you for contacting General Motors of Canada.

[Fishhunter911]

WTH?!?!?! What kind of answer is that??? Adding a trans cooler should not void your warranty. Unless if it different in Canada.

[The Black Pearl]

GM did not answer the question. I argued on the phone and just gave up. The question was clear. I did not ask about the towing abilities, I just wanted to know if I would void my warranty if I had the cooler installed by a certified shop.

[LMMJ]

GM did not answer the question. I argued on the phone and just gave up. The question was clear. I did not ask about the towing abilities, I just wanted to know if I would void my warranty if I had the cooler installed by a certified shop.

I think their response was geared toward the truck being able to tow from the factory. Their way of telling you to STFU and tow as is.

[MTPockets]

I think their response was geared toward the truck being able to tow from the factory. Their way of telling you to STFU and tow as is.

That's just it. GM wont give their blessing for an a/m ATF cooler install, but they'd have to prove that cooler caused a failure should a warranty despute arrise. I've personally never been a fan of the additional several feet of hose + multiple fittings and clamps assocaited with an aux ATF cooler. Especally when space is tight like it is on a modern truck. Not that they are a bad thing, but you NEED to key an eye on them & carry spare parts if possible.

Joel

[lifted4x4astro]

I installed the Long tru-cool part # 4454 in the front of my wife's 05. If you are towing and you rely on GM's miniscule excuse for a tranny cooler in the radiator, you WILL be replacing the tranny within 100,000 miles. And NO the aux cooler won't void the warranty. I run coolers on all my vehicles...05 TB, 95 Astro and my 98 Astro 4x4. The 98 Astro has over 151,000 miles on the original tranny with severe abuse...towing, snowplowing and extreme off-roading. I have seen temps over 250 degrees and that is with the #4590 True-cool cooler.

[Rob]

I was a transmission mechanic 20+ years ago, and most of the automatics we rebuilt died because of heat. We would typically recommend a cooler on any vehicle that was used as more than just a daily driver; towing, off-road, heavy duty, etc. You have everything to gain and nothing to loose by installing a cooler. It won't void your warranty. The only way it could be a problem is if the cooler leaked out the fluid and damaged the tranny. An unlikely scenario if you install it properly. I put a Hayden stacked plate type in my TB. It was the largest one that would fit. I think it was about 11"x9" or something like that. Probably took me less than an hour, but I did have to get some additional flexible line, the short section that came with the cooler wasn't enough. Add a couple of wire zip ties to secure the lines and it works like a charm.

[blu ya]

I installed mine and I used this radiator fitting to connect the line coming from the stock cooler on the bottom to the feed tube to the aux. cooler. It fit perfect, I then just used a pipe cutter on the stock metal line, flared the tub out, attached the rubber hose and clamped it all down good. Install was not too bad, just take your time and be careful not to touch the a/c condensor (trust me on that, I know from experience :D ). Here is the link to the fitting. I wish they had a fitting that would connect to the line going back to the tranny.

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=397&Category_Code=cooler-fittings&Product_Count=2

Let me know if you need pics, I've got some updated ones.

Tim

[MTPockets]

blu ya, good find on those fittings that convert the GM snap in deal to a regular hose barb. SWEET! Those fittings are a PITA once they get all old and crusty. A little pricey, but if you got 4 of those, you could eliminate the hard piping and 4 GM fittings if you needed to.

Joel

[The Black Pearl]

To set up my TB with a cooler would I require the 18,000 GVW?

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml

I'm going to spend the extra money and have a GM dealership install it. So I can point the finger back at them if something happens.

[Rob]

Essentially you should install the largest most efficient cooler you can. I bought the Hayden stacked plate design because it was more efficient than the tube and fin design. The 11"x9.5" was the biggest I could fit. The GVW ratings are recommendations. You're not going to make the transmission fluid "too cool" (unless you live where it gets to 50 below) and any additional cooling capacity is an improvement over stock. It's really not a hard job. The grill pops right off, and the cooler is mounted in front of the radiator using these long skinny plastic rods that go right through the radiator fins with clips on the back side. Route the lines under the radiator and splice into the metal cooling lines. I'll bet the dealer charges over $200.

[Gnfanatic]

Those long plastic tie rods WILL eventually destroy your rad and condensor due to vibrations. You will never see an OEM car have them mounted that way. You need to mount it off of the rad to the rad support with the brackets the cooler comes with.

[blu ya]

Those long plastic tie rods WILL eventually destroy your rad and condensor due to vibrations. You will never see an OEM car have them mounted that way. You need to mount it off of the rad to the rad support with the brackets the cooler comes with.

:iagree:
I mounted mine off the a/c condensor about 1". I used the supplied screws and made myself a mounting attatchment point. Considering that when I first slid my cooler in place and test fitted it, I nicked the a/c condesor one too many times (I barely even touched the condensor) and it sprung a leak. I would not even consider using those plastic ties.:m2:

Tim

[MTPockets]

Those long plastic tie rods WILL eventually destroy your rad and condensor due to vibrations....

Amen. I know I sound like a broken record at this point:rolleyes: , but it aint the cooler, it's the install that 99% of the time will do you in.

Joel

[Gnfanatic]

I am happy to see I can get those fittings, tha nks for the link. I will be getting a big a$$ cooler soon as well. Its WELL worth the investment imho.


Ralph

[The Black Pearl]

I won one a Long Tru Cool (18000) this morning on eBay for $20 new. The seller now claims he does not have the item. :mad: SOB...

[Bodyslide]

Report the User. If he can't provide the item also leave honest negative feedback.

[The Black Pearl]

Report the User. If he can't provide the item also leave honest negative feedback.

It was a different type of win. It was a second chance offer. I was the highest bidder, but I did not meet the reserve price. Through my eBay account I was offered to buy the item at the price I bidded so I contacted the seller with in 10 minutes of the offer for a shipping cost. I got the cost back right away. I was on my lunch so I figured I would pay for it tonight. I had until tomorrow to decide if I wanted the item, according to the ebay second chance offer notice, so i figured no problem if they wait 5 hours. I sent this email off to eBay.


"Hi. i was offered a second chance for an item and was about to buy it and can't. I do not know what happened. Can you tell me If the seller with drew the second chance offer. I feel that I should be able to leave feed back and I also feel that they did not follow through with the agreement."

[Rob]

Those long plastic tie rods WILL eventually destroy your rad and condensor due to vibrations. You will never see an OEM car have them mounted that way. You need to mount it off of the rad to the rad support with the brackets the cooler comes with.

Bull*&%$. There is absolutely no reason the "tie rods" as you call them should damage the radiator.

[MTPockets]

Bull*&%$. There is absolutely no reason the "tie rods" as you call them should damage the radiator.

I have seen the nylon straps 'saw' through radiator and condenser cores. Again, shoddy aftermarket installs. You cannot rely on the plastic tie straps to provide long term support. Any jiggle and you are done.

Joel

[Gnfanatic]

Um Rob, there is a reason OEM doesnt use them and pay the extra money for the brackets and bolts. I have seen it done, my friend who owned a rad shop showed me rads that were damaged.


Ralph

[ScarabEpic22]

Um Rob, there is a reason OEM doesnt use them and pay the extra money for the brackets and bolts. I have seen it done, my friend who owned a rad shop showed me rads that were damaged.


Ralph
You do realize he thoughyou were talking about tie rods, as in steering parts, right?

You meant zip ties, not tie rods. Zip ties are the plastic ties that you loop around and then they cinch down forever, only way to remove it to cut them.

[Gnfanatic]

hmmm, why the hell did I typed tie rods for? My bad, just realized it.

[Rob]

I supposed they don't have an official name, but they're long skinny plastic "bolts" that go right through the fins on a radiator. I've installed hundreds of them in the past with no problems. I can see that installing one improperly, or leaving it loose could damage the radiator, but if it is installed properly with the foam pads between the cooler and the radiator, and is snug (so that it doesn't rattle around), there's no reason they should damage the radiator. That said, I can certainly see how one that is not installed properly could do damage.

[nolowtb05]

I plan on installing a B&M 70268 on my wifes 05. It is the same as the Long #4454. I would like to see some pictures of the hose/ line connections that you have done.
Thanks

[Gnfanatic]

nolow, do you think long makes it for B&m>? they look the same and Long makes awesome coolers. I live near summiot racing and can pick one up. BTW whats the GVW rating on the b&m you want to get ??



Ralph

[nolowtb05]

nolow, do you think long makes it for B&m>? they look the same and Long makes awesome coolers. I live near summiot racing and can pick one up. BTW whats the GVW rating on the b&m you want to get ??



Ralph

The B & M coolers say LONG made in Canada right on them. I believe the GVW is 16,000 - 19,000.

nolowtb05

[blu ya]

I plan on installing a B&M 70268 on my wifes 05. It is the same as the Long #4454. I would like to see some pictures of the hose/ line connections that you have done.
Thanks

If you give me a day I will get updated pics of the connections and hoses I made for my install. Right now the pics that are in my gallery are of my old setup which I ended up upgrading with that connector and flared out the other end.

Tim

[The Black Pearl]

Would anybody know if the Tru-cool # LPD4589 will work in a TB I6? Here is the specifications: Truck & heavy duty to 24,500 GVW Low pressure drop cooler 8 x 11 x 1 1/2 thick

Thanks

[nolowtb05]

If you give me a day I will get updated pics of the connections and hoses I made for my install. Right now the pics that are in my gallery are of my old setup which I ended up upgrading with that connector and flared out the other end.

Tim

That would be great! Looking forward to the pictures, I need some ideas so the install comes out clean!
Thanks

[blu ya]

That would be great! Looking forward to the pictures, I need some ideas so the install comes out clean!
Thanks

I'll get them tomorrow, in the mean time I would highly recommend getting this connector, it allows you to connect your line coming from the oem cooler to the aux. cooler and it all looks and works as if oem.
Tim

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=397&Category_Code=cooler-fittings&Product_Count=2

[Gnfanatic]

Bluya, you mean this fitting will connect the reutrn line from the cooler to the return line going back to trans. YOu then disconnect that small left over return line in radiator, put a barb fitting in its place then connect hose which will go to feed of cooler.

Is this how you did it?

[WayFastWhite]

A few concerns I have:

If the trans fluid is designed to provide the best lubrication at a specfic temperature, by lowering the temperature aren't you losing some of the effectiveness of the fluid? By lowering the temperature aren't you changing the viscosity? Meaning won't the parts wear out faster since the fluid is not able to pull heat as well?

2nd isn't there a pressure loss from having to pass through 2 coolers? Similir to the boost loss across an intercooler. Reducing pressure would make the trans shift differently no? I know its a pressureized system under power, and you have added volume.

[MTPockets]

Very good points WayFast. Over cooling can be an issue where you will build up condensation in the ATF due to the moisture never being able to evaporate out. Pressure drop is another possible problem. You will zap more power out of the unit if it has to pump harder due to 'thicker' fluid and a pressure drop. Truth is though, those concerns are rare. On a good cooler install, the bennies should outweigh the concerns.

Joel

[WayFastWhite]

So does anyone know the "best case" temperature for the GM Trans fluid? (Dexron 3 I think?) That would be a great indicator as to if we really needed additional cooling. Then it would be a simple matter of reading your temp gage to see if you are in that range or not. I was considering using one of the pans built for the 4l60E that has cooling fins and additional depth for more fluid but was looking for hard data to back it up. I have yet to find any.

[Gary UT]

A few concerns I have:

If the trans fluid is designed to provide the best lubrication at a specfic temperature, by lowering the temperature aren't you losing some of the effectiveness of the fluid? By lowering the temperature aren't you changing the viscosity? Meaning won't the parts wear out faster since the fluid is not able to pull heat as well?

2nd isn't there a pressure loss from having to pass through 2 coolers? Similir to the boost loss across an intercooler. Reducing pressure would make the trans shift differently no? I know its a pressureized system under power, and you have added volume.

Over cooling is not a problem with a stacked plate cooler, if the fluid is too cold and thick it will flow through the bypass plates at the start of the cooler.

A tube and fin cooler has one tube folded back on itself, all of the fluid has to flow the entire length of the tube, they are very restrictive. In a stacked plate cooler the cooling plates are arranged in parallel, the flow of fluid is divided among many plates, they have almost no restriction.


Gary

[blu ya]

I got the new pics up in my gallery. Let me know if you have any questions, I'll try and answer them as best as possible.

Tim

[Gnfanatic]

Wayfast, thats the reason why you have to still use the cooler in the radiator then through the external cooler. the heat from the rad will never make the fluid cold. The pressure drop is Minimal. All HD trucks, wheelers, some cars etc have external coolers for trans, power steering oil, etc.

[Gnfanatic]

OK< why in Gods name did GM put the lines on the bottom the radiator, retarded. Anyone which line is the feed line? I see 2 lines on the bottom of the trans, one has a green sticker on it. 2-) do those silver hex nuts come out of the rad so you can install a barb fitting???>

thanks
Ralph

[The Black Pearl]

Would anybody know if the Tru-cool # LPD4589 will work in a TB I6? Here is the specifications: Truck & heavy duty to 24,500 GVW Low pressure drop cooler 8 x 11 x 1 1/2 thick

Thanks

[Gnfanatic]

its to big black pearl, it is tight in the front. my cooler is 1 1/2 in thick as well and 5 3/4 x 11in just makes it.

[The Black Pearl]

Thanks...I will keep on checking eBay...

[blu ya]

Anyone which line is the feed line? I see 2 lines on the bottom of the trans, one has a green sticker on it. 2-) do those silver hex nuts come out of the rad so you can install a barb fitting???>

thanks
Ralph

1)The line that comes out on the driver's side is the return line to the tranny. The one on the passenger side is the line going from the tranny to the OEM cooler.

2)If you use the link I provided earlier, you can get a fitting that connects to the silver hex nut. The silver hex nut has a c clip that holds the aluminum (SP) OEM pipe in and does not allow it to pop off. I cut the OEM line with a pipe cutter, flared it out with a flare tool, and then connected the rubber line, and clamped it down. In order to get the OEM pipe off, you have to pop off the c clip and then the pipe will come out with a little pulling.

Hope this helps.

Tim

[Gnfanatic]

Bluya, thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Problem with that fitting (link you gave me) is that it is straight. I dont want that thing poking out of my rad and then a rubber hosing going down. I would worry about kinks. I want a fitting like that but is 90 degree's. Understand? Antoehr question is the RETURN line fron the EXT cooler how do I connect it to the OEM return line that will be disconnect up near the pass side head lamp? Does it have a flare to it that I can just put the hose over?

thanks

[blu ya]

Bluya, thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Problem with that fitting (link you gave me) is that it is straight. I dont want that thing poking out of my rad and then a rubber hosing going down. I would worry about kinks. I want a fitting like that but is 90 degree's. Understand? Antoehr question is the RETURN line fron the EXT cooler how do I connect it to the OEM return line that will be disconnect up near the pass side head lamp? Does it have a flare to it that I can just put the hose over?

thanks

What I did was:
1) Took OEM line off, cut it at a straight point, then flared it out, attached the rubber line, clamped it down, then ran the rubber line to the aux. cooler. I still used the OEM piping which allowed me to use the original connector on the metal piping going back to the tranny.

2)I used that connector that I had bought (which only sticks out enough to allow for proper clamping of the rubber hose and in my pics gallery you can see it) attached it to the metal OEM fitting which allowed me to get a plum connection with no leaks, and then ran the rubber hose to the aux. cooler. If you look at the pics in my gallery you'll see the fitting only sticks out about 2". My lines I used zip ties to hold the lines up and out of the way so nothing gets caught on it. Just make sure you don't make you rubber hose bends to tight or the line will be blocked.

As as side note, I found that the kits did not come with enough rubber hose, so I bought an extra line to make sure I had enough for my hose routment. Also the I have not found any straight up connectors that work with the metal lines coming from the tranny. So I just bought an extra OEM line incase I had to put everything back to normal.

Tim

[blu ya]

Hope none of that was confusing :crazy:.

:undecided :eek:
Tim

[Gnfanatic]

Thanks Tim, I appreciate the help. This is what I decided to do, I believe your is similiar. I am going to remove the driver side OEM line and cut it and flare it. When I reinstall it on the radiator I am going to rotate it to the opposite side of what it used to be and connect the rubber line to it , then to cooler. Then I am going to reattach OEM line after flaring opposite side and put rubber hose on that then to cooler.

thanks for the help man.

Now I got to figure how to mount the trans cooler properly, I dont want to mount the brackets to plastic.

[blu ya]

Thanks Tim, I appreciate the help. This is what I decided to do, I believe your is similiar. I am going to remove the driver side OEM line and cut it and flare it. When I reinstall it on the radiator I am going to rotate it to the opposite side of what it used to be and connect the rubber line to it , then to cooler. Then I am going to reattach OEM line after flaring opposite side and put rubber hose on that then to cooler.

thanks for the help man.

Now I got to figure how to mount the trans cooler properly, I dont want to mount the brackets to plastic.

Not a prob. I mounted mine to the plastic with the provided screws. Believe it or not, the thing does not move and there is about 1/4" clearance between the two.
Good luck and just take your time, unlike me, I didn't have the patience and had to redo it later.
Tim

[Gnfanatic]

Tim, the new c clips i have to buy, are they a dealer item only????

[blu ya]

Tim, the new c clips i have to buy, are they a dealer item only????

You just reuse the old ones. Nothing breaks unless you bend them in half :crazy: . Theres a black plastic cap covering the c clip. Push it back, and you will see the c clip. Keep both cause you will reuse it. The black plastic cap ensures the c clip stays in place.

Tim

[ScarabEpic22]

I did what blu ya did, took my radiator cooler out line and cut and flared it. Attached the rubber line from my cooler to it and then connected the output line from the aftermarket cooler to my stock line. Easy as pie, biggest challenge for me was mounting it where I wanted.

[Gnfanatic]

Tim, funny you say that becuase when I moved the black plastic round thing a piece of the c clip fell off (I didnt touch it!)! It was bsuted from the factory and I dont trust it now!


Ralph

[blu ya]

Tim, funny you say that becuase when I moved the black plastic round thing a piece of the c clip fell off (I didnt touch it!)! It was bsuted from the factory and I dont trust it now!


Ralph

:eek: That clip is what holds it in place, damn! I would get new ones from the stealership, or somewhere else. Maybe it's a good thing you're doing this. Let me know how it goes.

Tim

[MTPockets]

The spring clip that holds the cooler line into the radiator fitting was broke!:eek: Wow, you are REALLY lucky the line didn't blow out of the radiator and drain the trans of ATF. The 4L60E in my 2005 will pump about a gallon in 10 seconds thru the cooler circuit. 10 seconds and you are stranded.:worried:

Joel

[Gnfanatic]

I know it sounds weird, the tips of the c-clip is missing, not half of the cclip. Its in there well and wont come out but i sure as hell aint re-using it!!

[jimmyjam]

Sharing is caring...
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/jizzajam/transcool2.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/jizzajam/transcool1.jpg

[nolowtb05]

jimmyjam
Did you use any mounts on the bottom of the cooler or is it just the top mounts and the hoses supporting the cooler. Which cooler model did you use(or dimension)? Going to mount mine shortly and was looking at all the options. Is the cooler mounted rigid or is there any movement?
Thanks for any help jimmyjam.
nolowtb05

[jimmyjam]

it is a B&M 70264 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D70264&N=700+0&autoview=sku), 6 in. x 11 in. x 1 1/2 in.

Yes I only secured it on the top, placed the included foam spacers on the back so it is not banging on the radiator but it doesn't budge much, the tubing on the bottom holds it in place pretty well.

[wilmead63]

You Guys crack me up! If you're cutting the return (metal) line and flaring it in order to attach the return (rubber) line from the aux cooler to it,you didn't need to to buy that brass fitting ( although I personally appreciate the link.) You simply flare the short piece of the metal tubing (the end that "plugs" in the rad)and attach your hose there,then to the inlet of the aux cooler.Personally, I would use the a/m fitting in the rad and not cut the factory cooler (metal) line as it has a small crimped "rib" that would very adequately hold the(properly hose clamped and properly sized(should fit snug over the oe metal line) rubber aux cooler line.As for those plastic "ties" that come in many a/m cooler kits-Do they work? Yes.However common sense would dictate that they are a less than "optimum" method of attachment. Many coolers come with mounting tabs making it rather easy to firmly attach them to your fabricated brackets and to your vehicle without ever possibly causing any damage to the condenser and/or rad.I for one will not be using the "thru the rad/a c condenser ties" to attach my aux cooler to my '04 Envoy.As far a the one poster who questioned the validity of the aux coolers; They are a tried and true time tested and inexpensive way to increase automatic tranny life(regardless of the vehicle and weather you tow with it or not)-the benefits of which far outweigh the relatively small investment in time and money.I keep hoping GM will offer a factory aux cooler for the TrailVoys-but I'm not aware of one yet. My envoy has a factory P/S cooler that I initially thought was a small aux trans cooler until I looked closer.The Trans Pans that are available with the cooling tubes in them make sense to me but they are expensive!You can install a good aux cooler for less than the price of one of these. However I could justify the cost of one(along with an aux cooler) under certain conditions(such as frequent heavy towing,racing or alot of desert driving and so forth.)

[Gnfanatic]

This is how I mounted mine, it is 2in away from rad and it has a steel plate in the back for reinforcement. All bolts and nuts are SS and nuts are self locking.



http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/Gnfanatic/transcooler.jpg

[MTPockets]

You Guys crack me up!....

Your first post and we amuse you already? Welcome and you aint seen nothing yet. That's the whole point of the aftermarket 'push lock deletes', so you dont trash an expensive OEM line, that and those push locks BLOW after a few years in the rust belt.

Joel

[Lunchbox RR]

I finally finished my transcooler and filter install. I used B&M 70272 Cooler and B&M 80277 trans filter. I mounted the cooler in front of the radiator and the filter adapter plate to the frame above the brake air duct. I did not cut the return line, I used a 14mm male fitting to An 6 with an O-Ring the thread on the 14mm has a 1.50 pitch and it fits perfect into the radiator, connected all the fittings with Russell S/S lines. On the hard line I used a female fitting 3/8 with 1.50 pitch to AN 6 and this too fits perfect on the hard line, both of these fittings are made by Earls. I decided not to cut the line just in case I needed to disconnect everything.

[Jozuah]

I have seen the nylon straps 'saw' through radiator and condenser cores. Again, shoddy aftermarket installs. You cannot rely on the plastic tie straps to provide long term support. Any jiggle and you are done.

Joel

:iagree: :iagree:

[Jozuah]

You do realize he thoughyou were talking about tie rods, as in steering parts, right?

You meant zip ties, not tie rods. Zip ties are the plastic ties that you loop around and then they cinch down forever, only way to remove it to cut them.
or they get cold in winter and snap or too hot and melt ,, or the fins cut them etc etc etc

[Jozuah]

This is how I mounted mine, it is 2in away from rad and it has a steel plate in the back for reinforcement. All bolts and nuts are SS and nuts are self locking.



http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/Gnfanatic/transcooler.jpg

that looks like a job well done !! nice work