Front Skid Plate

[Spong]

Would it hurt anything to leave the front skid plate off? It has to be removed to change the oil everytime so I figure why not just leave it off! I don't offroad or anything.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Steve

[chriszak]

I would not think so, it certainly is not a struture piece. The guage of the metal is very thin. When I took mine off to do my oil change, I laughed and said "GM calls this a skid plate?"
You should be fine. I like to hear other replys though.

Chris.

[ylab]

What do you mean by metal? ..... All the skidplates I've seen, including the one on my Envoy are composite (plastic). My only thoughts on removing mine are whether it affects the airflow under the vehicle and would affect either engine cooling or noise levels. That said, I could see cooling going either way, it would allow the truck to have air pulled out from beneath after flowing through the engine compartment or add'l air coming in causing less to pass through the radiator. (Gut feeling is it might help cooling, but make more noise....but my gut has been wrong before).

[torker]

I am now missing the plastic between the radiator and frame or shroud underneath. Hit a coyote at 75. Luckily coyotes are short. No stress cracks in the urethane. I think the cover for my oil pan/filter area is plastic on my 2wd. Should not hurt to lose it. might have a little more road debris get kicked up there/ mostly sand.

[torker]

[ ...but my gut has been wrong before).[/quote]

Hey Ylab, By the way I lost our Yellow, I have a black and chocolate still.

I was wondering if you still plan on posting the cold air pics? U can pm me.

Sorry off-topic guys .

[the roadie]

...I laughed and said "GM calls this a skid plate?"Yeah, they're laughable. To be precise, they call them "underbody shields" with an RPO code of ZM5. Available for $200 or so on Ebay.

http://quirk-parts.com/ebay01/chevy2/12497685.jpg

The only metal piece is the one under the radiator, but none of them are good for much more than deflecting 1/2" or smaller pebbles kicked up from the tires. Real offroad skid plates are 3/16" steel at least.

[MTPockets]

I wondered the same thing. My oil change door has been missing since I bought our 2005 from a dealership used, and that's with the GM million point *inspection*:rolleyes: There aint much to the shield without the oil change door! Like a doofuss, I still take off the plastic 'frame' that remains & slap it back on after an oil change. I'm really considering just leaving it off.

Joel

[the roadie]

...the GM million point *inspection*:rolleyes: You mean this inspection:

1) Ensure oil filter door missing: CHECK
2) Inspect for required rear differential clunk: CHECK
3) Make sure air conditioner vents smell musty: CHECK
4) Blow out three instrument panel lamps in case fewer than three are already out: CHECK
5) Install old, recycled fan clutch from 2002 model removed from dealership owner's TB per TSB: CHECK

That checklist?

[TRAILBLAZRBURKE]

I considered leaving mine off after my over fill / leak fiasco (which I can now report is fixed), but i figured i might as well put it back on, but that was the 1st oil change and i KNOW i will get tired of that eventually. Like a couple of you have mentioned, it's not really thick enough to truly call it a skid plate

[blktbon20s]

i would leave it on.
Its a hassle but you really don't need to remove it to do an oil change.
Just turn the wheel all the way to the right and thats enough room to remove the oil filter.
Also if you remove it the dealer will blame you with ANY problem you have.

[chriszak]

I'll have to re-check mine. It sure looked like it was pressed sheet metal.

Chris.

[Blueblazed]

You mean this inspection:

1) Ensure oil filter door missing: CHECK
2) Inspect for required rear differential clunk: CHECK
3) Make sure air conditioner vents smell musty: CHECK
4) Blow out three instrument panel lamps in case fewer than three are already out: CHECK
5) Install old, recycled fan clutch from 2002 model removed from dealership owner's TB per TSB: CHECK

That checklist?

Yes, that's the one. Good one Roadie!:rotfl:

Seriously what's your opinion? For someone that doesn't do any offroading would it hurt to leave it off? I kind of figured you had something heavier/better (than that cheap little thing) on yours for obvious reasons!

[ylab]

I may be too anal retentive, lost my door a couple years ago and something made me order a new one. Not the just the door, the entire shield, as they don't sell them separately. Never knew if I left it loose or the dealer monkey did, when they performed service, but they weren't going to replace it. (Its was around $44, before somebody asks! :))

I'll work on the CAI pics over the weekend, been down with the flu or an infection for the past week.

[RayVoy]

My only thoughts on removing mine are whether it affects the airflow under the vehicle and would affect either engine cooling or noise levels.

It might have some impact on cooling, but I don't think the 2 wheel drive trucks have these plates. Would they run cooler without????

[Spong]

Thanks for all the replies. Since the skidplates are an option I figured leaving them off shouldn't hurt anything.

I watched them change the oil the last time (it's only been done twice) and they just loosened the bolts and turned it to the side out of the way.

Just turn the wheel all the way to the right and thats enough room to remove the oil filter.


Does this work on the V8's or just I6?

[ieatglue]

Also if you remove it the dealer will blame you with ANY problem you have.

I don't think the sheilds came one all the models, it was an option :yes:

[the roadie]

Seriously what's your opinion? For someone that doesn't do any offroading would it hurt to leave it off? I'd leave it on because it will deflect the odd rock or sharp object that the tires could kick up even on a paved road. You never know what object would be the one to puncture the oil filter on a trip to Vegas 100 miles from a place to get more oil and a new filter.I kind of figured you had something heavier/better (than that cheap little thing) on yours for obvious reasons!Not yet, but it's on my list of mandatory mods. I was waiting until I got the new front bumper designed and fabbed, then tie in a front skid plate with new underbody skid plates. For now, I'm just extremely careful to take tall (>12") rock hits on the frame rails or rock sliders rather than on any underbody shield. Makes it a challenge to drive the best line, for sure. A continuous 3D mental game. The rear axle lower link mount especially needs some more armor.

[blktbon20s]

Does this work on the V8's or just I6?
well i'm not sure but for my i6 it works

I don't think the sheilds came one all the models, it was an option :yes:
i didn't know that when posted it. i have it and mines all scratched up. But maybe its b/c mine dropped.i never did any type of off-roading w/ my tb.

[Blueblazed]

It might have some impact on cooling, but I don't think the 2 wheel drive trucks have these plates. Would they run cooler without????
Mine is a 2 wheel drive LS EXT and it has it. A thin plastic shield that covers most of the engine area with a little door for access to the oil drain plug and filter.

[MTPockets]

You mean this inspection:

1) Ensure oil filter door missing: CHECK
2) Inspect for required rear differential clunk: CHECK
3) Make sure air conditioner vents smell musty: CHECK
4) Blow out three instrument panel lamps in case fewer than three are already out: CHECK
5) Install old, recycled fan clutch from 2002 model removed from dealership owner's TB per TSB: CHECK

That checklist?

Bwahhhhaha!! Yes! I believe that's the offical list! Good one.


Joel

[toster]

Roadie,

When you get that custom skid plate done, can you have them do a couple of them? I am sure that a couple of us with the Z-71 clones would love to have them. My clone is still in progress.

[the roadie]

Roadie,
When you get that custom skid plate done, can you have them do a couple of them? I am sure that a couple of us with the Z-71 clones would love to have them. My clone is still in progress.I'll make design drawings, but to fab them here and ship them almost anywhere would be prohibitive. Unless you're in SoCal, you'd be better off locating a competent welder/fabricator near you. I know I really don't want to get into the business of shipping 100 pounds of steel plate around the country. Sorry. If you're local, I'd appreciate knowing it. Can you update your profile?

[toster]

The drawings would be a great start, means I am no where near you. (nebraska). I can't update it yet, I haven't posted enough, but here is one more.

[Spong]

The drawings would be a great start, means I am no where near you. (nebraska). I can't update it yet, I haven't posted enough, but here is one more.

Where at in Nebraska?

[95_ESi_Person]

I have just gotten my hands on some steel diamond plate. I was going to make myself a new skidplate the other day, but some stuff happened and I didn't feel like leaving my apartment.

But... I will be fabricating it this week. I'm just going to take off my composite skid plate and plasma cut out a new one off of the diamond plate. I will then make a new oil door, or at least make a "bubble" for where the oil drain plug is so I don't hit it.

Luckily I have gotten in the good graces of the new professor who just took over the production (metals) lab at the university that I attend. The metal is not scrap, but he is letting me use it anyway.

There is also some aluminum diamondplate back there (which the professor want's used), and I was thinking of making a TEMPORARY guard for the fuel tank.

Did any of the TrailVoys (and Rainiers/Ascenders/others) come with a skid plate for the transmission?

[tb05]

You mean this inspection:

1) Ensure oil filter door missing: CHECK
2) Inspect for required rear differential clunk: CHECK
3) Make sure air conditioner vents smell musty: CHECK
4) Blow out three instrument panel lamps in case fewer than three are already out: CHECK
5) Install old, recycled fan clutch from 2002 model removed from dealership owner's TB per TSB: CHECK

That checklist?


:rotfl: :dielaugh:

[Spong]

I went ahead and removed the plate tonight to do the oil change. There's a hole in it but I don't know how you would actually get the filter through the hole!

Like a dumbass I accidentally grabbed 6 quarts of Mobil 7500 10w-30 instead of 5w-30. They all use the blue cap now and I figured it was 5w-30. :crazy: I went with the 7500 instead of full synthetic because I'll be taking it in to have the rear main looked at so the oil probably won't get many miles before it's drained.

Now my TB is sitting in the garage oil less until I can get to Autozone in the morning to trade the oil. I feel so stupid! :worried:

[95_ESi_Person]

Eh, I wouldn't worry too much... Mine has been using 10W-30 for quite some time now.

My parents had the dealership do the oil changes before I got it and it had Max Life 10W-30 in it, so I stuck with that.

I have a fair amount of noise and piston slap so I'm assuming that's the reason for the thicker oil.

Suggestions? I have an oil change coming up soon.

[steviestyles]

I went ahead and removed the plate tonight to do the oil change. There's a hole in it but I don't know how you would actually get the filter through the hole!

Like a dumbass I accidentally grabbed 6 quarts of Mobil 7500 10w-30 instead of 5w-30. They all use the blue cap now and I figured it was 5w-30. :crazy: I went with the 7500 instead of full synthetic because I'll be taking it in to have the rear main looked at so the oil probably won't get many miles before it's drained.

Now my TB is sitting in the garage oil less until I can get to Autozone in the morning to trade the oil. I feel so stupid! :worried:


lol, I did the same thing the other day. I grabbed the gallon of Mobil 1 5W-30, and two extra of 10W-30. I would of mixed them, but I'm anal like that. Luckily for me, while I had it on the lift, the place I was doing my oil change at had a couple of quarts of 5W-30, they were nice enough to do a staright swap thank god.

[Spong]

I drained out the 1qt of 10w-30 and returned the others for 5w-30. So now it has 1qt 5w-30 M1 full synthetic and 5 qts of 5w-30 Mobil synthetic blend. :crazy:

[Sparty]

Edit...good job

[Spong]

When are you going to add the last quart? :undecided

And what type of oil are you going to use this time?? :raspberry

1+5=6 qts which is all it takes. See above for oil type!

[torker]

I can't believe my i6 holds 7 quarts.

[ScarabEpic22]

Eh, I wouldn't worry too much... Mine has been using 10W-30 for quite some time now.

My parents had the dealership do the oil changes before I got it and it had Max Life 10W-30 in it, so I stuck with that.

I have a fair amount of noise and piston slap so I'm assuming that's the reason for the thicker oil.

Suggestions? I have an oil change coming up soon.

Go synthetic, it will help a ton. I know from experience, with dino oil my TB diesels a lot on cold starts, with Amsoil (or any good syn, M1, RP, etc) it is not as pronounced. It still does it, but the noise is not as loud. I can verify this as I have run Amsoil for ~1.5yrs and then in July or August I ran some dino 5W-30 and on cold starts it dieseled like crazy. I was happy when I had a few min on the weekend to change back to Amsoil.

[Bearcat]

I don't think the sheilds came one all the models, it was an option :yes:
The shields were an option for the 2004. I did an oil change friday night and removed the shield as an experiment since I was doing some highway driving on Saturday. I believe that it's there mainly for noise. The TB seems quieter at highway speeds with the shield than without. Too bad that GM can't make an engineer available to answer such questions to the forum. They probably believe that it would hurt the dealer's service departments, but not may of us here ever intend to let the dealer touch our trucks.

[RozmerJJ]

Does this work on the V8's or just I6?

The hole in the frame only works on 02 models with the I6. Starting in I think 03 they welded a plate over the hole. I know my 05 has this hold covered, but I can still drop the filter through the hole in the "skid plate".

[Nukedog]

Changed my oil on the 5.3 TB last week for the 1st time. The skid plate is a pain in the a** but the filter comes out okay with it installed so i did not mess with it.

Now i have Shell Rotella T (non synth) 15-40 in it. Will change this oil for a lower weight for winter in about 2-3 weeks.

You will never catch me using 5-30 in FL heat during the summer.

[Spong]

Now i have Shell Rotella T (non synth) 15-40 in it. Will change this oil for a lower weight for winter in about 2-3 weeks.

You will never catch me using 5-30 in FL heat during the summer.

15w-40? This isn't a 1975 pickup truck! Why not 5w-40 if you're worried about heat? 15w is awful thick for startup even if you don't get that cold. :crazy:

[Nukedog]

15w-40? This isn't a 1975 pickup truck! Why not 5w-40 if you're worried about heat? 15w is awful thick for startup even if you don't get that cold. :crazy:


This is my 3rd LS based motor and i have always used 15-40 (or for a few years).

I put it in my 2006 Yamaha FZ1, 2002 Suzuki Hayabusa, 2002 Toyota Tacoma and was in my 2000 Z71 Silvy as well as my 05 Silvy...

I will move down to 10-30 in 2-3 weeks on all my vehicle due to the cooler air but it never gets lower than 26f here in north Florida...

[Spong]

All I can say is :eek:

I use 5w-30 year round and I wouldn't even consider using 10w-30 in the summer and we get hot and humid here just like FL (just for a shorter period). These new engines need the thinner oil for proper lube at startup.

I bet you would see much smoother startups and better mileage if you ran the proper weight oil. Just my :m2:

[ylab]

Whoa, 15W40....they still make that stuff! :D

Seriously, if you were to have an internal engine issue and the dealer tech noticed the oil seemed too thick, they could deny warranty coverage. Newer motors are designed with extreme tolerances and thick oil may not be able to flow into all those tight tolerance places to provide adequate lubrication. The thicker oils are also more prone to leave deposits and sludge in the motor.

Just my $.02 worth.

[MTPockets]

..Now i have Shell Rotella T (non synth) 15-40 in it. Will change this oil for a lower weight for winter in about 2-3 weeks..

Isn't all of the Shell Rotella-T line synthetic blend?? (awesome oil BTW) I ran Shell R-T 5w-40 in my isuzu rodeo without issue, that oil has a better cold flow properties than 5w-30!! What I had left of the 5w-40 I run in all my outdoor power equipment. 40wt's are great for aircooled stuff, mowers, generators, etc..

G/luck
Joel

[Nukedog]

Ylab - Shell Rotella is a diesel use oil with more detergent and it leaves less deposites due to this.

MTP - Nope - Regular Shell Rotella T is non synth and/or blended. It's only $8 a gallon.

I will move down to 10-30 for the winter. Might even try sunthetic.

Ylab - as far as tolerances are concerned and your statement - many people sugest synthetic should NEVER be used in engine break in either but the TBSS LS2 as well as Vette's have synth from the factory. Who is correct on all this?

My 128,000 mile 2000 Z71 5.3 certainly had no issues at all with 15-40 and it is a LS based motor...

[Spong]

I never put synthetic in my new engines until they have at least 5k miles on them. I just put synthetic in my TB this weekend for the first time and it's got 5600 miles on it.

[Super 88]

You will never catch me using 5-30 in FL heat during the summer.

Is Florida heat any hotter than southern ca and Arizona heat? We use 5W-30 here all the time with our engines lasting 200 - 300K miles or more. I saw someone the other day on another forum that had a Crown Vic (patrol car) that was using 5W-20 and had 200,000 miles on it (they had a picture of the odometer)

15w-40? This isn't a 1975 pickup truck! Why not 5w-40 if you're worried about heat? 15w is awful thick for startup even if you don't get that cold. :crazy:

:iagree:

[MTPockets]

MTP - Nope - Regular Shell Rotella T is non synth and/or blended. It's only $8 a gallon.

Gotcha.:yes: Here is the stuff I've used. It's about $17/gal at wally world: http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t_synthetic.html

Joel

Is Florida heat any hotter than southern ca and Arizona heat? We use 5W-30 here all the time with our engines lasting 200 - 300K miles or more. I saw someone the other day on another forum that had a Crown Vic (patrol car) that was using 5W-20 and had 200,000 miles on it (they had a picture of the odometer)...

That's just it '88. An engine will run on anything; 20wt to a 50wt. 30wt, 0w-30, 5w-30 and 10w-30 are all the same thing at operating temp, so it doesn't matter. For the 4.2L, I don't see the point in running a 40wt as you will have increased pumping losses, drag, etc. Why loose that little bit of power and MPG when you can still get 200-300Kmi out of running a $1.50/qt 5w-30?

Joel

[Blueblazed]

:iagree: with Joel. I saw that thread too about the 200,000 mile Crown Vic using 5W-20 oil
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=753141&an=0&page=0#Post753141

Ylab - I agree with what you are saying, but do you think a tech could really tell the difference between a 15W oil cold, and a 5W cold without an oil analysis?
FWIW my owners manual "recommends" using 5W-30 but also states: "Do not
use SAE 10W-40, SAE 20W-50 or ANY (my emphasis) other viscosity grade oil not recommended" Of course, this is the same manual that said to change the fuel filter every 25K when there isn't one in a 2005! :) :D

[MTPockets]

... do you think a tech could really tell the difference between a 15W oil cold, and a 5W cold without an oil analysis?..

Even with a used oil analysis they'd have a hard time proving what oil it started out as. Way too many variables.

Joel

[Blueblazed]

Even with a used oil analysis they'd have a hard time proving what oil it started out as. Way too many variables.

Joel

Ah, true - I hadn't thought of that (obviously) :)

[toster]

Where at in Nebraska?

Lincoln. PM me.