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Best Way to Reduce the TB Float/Roll [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

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bostongmw
11-03-2005, 01:07 PM
We have an '04 TB EXT.

After 15K miles I want to remove some of the float and roll. We have 3 kids so we pack and drive a lot.

I've read everything on the board about the lowering kits and I am concerned about the trade-off.

Is there a way to eliminate some of the float without having to lower the vehicle. If not, what kit do you recommend with minimal lowering.

Any and all recommendations appreciated.

tblazed
11-03-2005, 03:37 PM
Hotchkis 2272 sway bar and bushing kit made a big difference on mine. Probably need to confrim it will work on the EXT.

the roadie
11-03-2005, 04:28 PM
I'm pleased I got good value for the Airlift 1000 spring bags and the gas-pressurized aftermarket Bilsteins. Aitlift bags reduced roll to half of what it was stock (subjective - not measured scientifically).

See new photos in my gallery for what the rear suspension looks like, and the Airlift controls on the console. (And a few new off-roading pics).

tblazed
11-03-2005, 05:57 PM
I have the Air Lift 1000 on mine too, along with a 1 1/2" lower set of springs to level the rear equal to the stock front, and the rear HD Bilsteins. I would say probably 3/4 of the total impovement came from the Hotchkis kit. Each thing added even better stability. Main reason I got the Air Lifts was in case I needed to really load the back down with people and cargo, I could adjust it back up level. Each stage I did, Hotchkis first, springs second, HD Bilsteins third, and the Air Lifts last, was an improvement. I normally run 10 lbs in the Air Lifts. I used dual air valves to keep them independent, rather than a single common valve, so one bag does not displace air into the other going around corners. Corners very flat now, and is very stable with no more bucking from the rear effect and body roll at highway speeds, coming off the freeway down an exit ramp etc.

http://users3.ev1.net/~epadget/tbairlift.jpg

bostongmw
11-03-2005, 11:34 PM
Good info as always on this board. Time to do some homework on your recommendations. Will let you know what I choose.

ScarabEpic22
11-03-2005, 11:41 PM
I have the Air Lift 1000 on mine too, along with a 1 1/2" lower set of springs to level the rear equal to the stock front, and the rear HD Bilsteins. I would say probably 3/4 of the total impovement came from the Hotchkis kit. Each thing added even better stability. Main reason I got the Air Lifts was in case I needed to really load the back down with people and cargo, I could adjust it back up level. Each stage I did, Hotchkis first, springs second, HD Bilsteins third, and the Air Lifts last, was an improvement. I normally run 10 lbs in the Air Lifts. I used dual air valves to keep them independent, rather than a single common valve, so one bag does not displace air into the other going around corners. Corners very flat now, and is very stable with no more bucking from the rear effect and body roll at highway speeds, coming off the freeway down an exit ramp etc.

http://users3.ev1.net/~epadget/tbairlift.jpg
Thats exactly what I want to do to my TB, minus the lowering kit. I would be very happy with a Hotchkis, the HD Bilsteins, and the Air Lift 1000. I would add the Load Controller 2 onboard air compressor so I wouldnt have to mess with manual fillups, but the independent controller (with 2 guages for side to side) is about $60-70 more than the single one. However, your theory that the air is displaced on turns to the outside bag is very probably, and I will probably shell out the extra cash when I get the bags.
Also, I really like the location of your bag billups, perfect spot!! I never thought of putting them there, but I will now!!:D
I just looked at your gallery, and I really like the location of your compressor guage! Were there two guages in the kit? If not, how did you hook the bags up? Unfortunately, for my 02 TB, there is a cupholder there where your guage is mounted, so I will have to figure out another place to put mine.
I see you mounted the compressor in the rear storage compartment. Can it also be mounted under the TB/Voy? I have my first aid kit in there now, but that could easily be relocated into a door. I wonder if the water/road grime would affect the performance of the compressor. You are giving me some really good mounting ideas!!!

P.S. I might need to pick your brain about some install ideas, ex. How did you run the air lines through the body from the inside?

Thanks,

tblazed
11-04-2005, 01:45 PM
ScarabEpic22, I don't have a gage mounted anywhere so it must have been someone else's gallery you were looking at. Anyway glad to share some ideas. That's what this is all about!

jimmyjam
11-04-2005, 02:30 PM
ScarabEpic22, I don't have a gage mounted anywhere so it must have been someone else's gallery you were looking at.Thats "the roadie"s gallery, and I concur it is rather badass!

ScarabEpic22
11-04-2005, 04:37 PM
ScarabEpic22, I don't have a gage mounted anywhere so it must have been someone else's gallery you were looking at. Anyway glad to share some ideas. That's what this is all about!
Yep, youre right, it was the roadies gallery. I still like the placement though!! OK, so most of those questions werent aimed at you tblazed, but at the roadie instead!!:D

Sorry for the confusion.

the roadie
11-04-2005, 05:35 PM
I just looked at your gallery, and I really like the location of your compressor guage! Were there two guages in the kit? If not, how did you hook the bags up? Unfortunately, for my 02 TB, there is a cupholder there where your guage is mounted, so I will have to figure out another place to put mine.
I see you mounted the compressor in the rear storage compartment. Can it also be mounted under the TB/Voy? I have my first aid kit in there now, but that could easily be relocated into a door. I wonder if the water/road grime would affect the performance of the compressor. You are giving me some really good mounting ideas!!!

P.S. I might need to pick your brain about some install ideas, ex. How did you run the air lines through the body from the inside?

Thanks,

I should write up the entire process someday, I guess. I have photos of everything.

The kit I got had one gauge. I didn't think the airflow from side to side was an issue, but it might be. The compressor output hose goes through a grommeted hole plug inthe bottom of the body cavity below the storage compartment. There's a couple of brass T's in the line under the vehicle so the hose can go to both bags and a Schrader vavle for manual filling if the compressor fails.
http://www.roadie.org/hose1.JPG

http://www.roadie.org/hose2.JPG

I also chose the trailer wiring plate for that location.

http://www.roadie.org/schrader.JPG

I would not put this compressor with plastic case underneath, in case of mud, etc. To hold the noise down a tiny bit, I used sound deadening adhesive stuff on the storage door, and grommeted vibration mounts for the compressor on the inside of the compartment, but it's not silent by any means.

From the compressor, I put the hose and wire harness under the side panels and rear door jamb. Then snaked under the rug to the console area, which was already off for the control and guage installation. Stole power from a key-switched hot (don't want the compressor to go on continuously wihtout you knowing it because of the Airlift 5PSI minimum pressure switch.) Oh, and found a dimmable lamp wire going to the rear AC/radio control panel, so I spliced in the gauge backlight into that for a nice dimmable appearance at night.

http://www.roadie.org/hose%20and%20wire%20snake.JPG

http://www.roadie.org/controls.JPG

Jman423
11-04-2005, 06:24 PM
I should write up the entire process someday, I guess. I have photos of everything.....
If you do decide to put something together, please let me know and we will get it posted in the articles section of the site, if you need any info, please PM me.

Thanks!!

ScarabEpic22
11-04-2005, 07:05 PM
OK, thanks. I will look into it some more now!

Also, I was wondering if you could possible tap the line coming out of the compressor before it leaves the truck and putting a pressure switch so you could put about 30ft of hose with a tire end on it to pump up flat tires on the road. I am going to look into it since the Load Controller 2 is rated for 100psi, a 50psi tire should be no problem. It would be great for inflating trailer tires too!! It should only need a simple t-tap with a valve to do it so when the compressor is on regularly it will fill the bags, not pump air back into the compartment needlessly.

the roadie
11-04-2005, 07:26 PM
Also, I was wondering if you could possible tap the line coming out of the compressor before it leaves the truck and putting a pressure switch so you could put about 30ft of hose with a tire end on it to pump up flat tires on the road. I am going to look into it since the Load Controller 2 is rated for 100psi, a 50psi tire should be no problem. It would be great for inflating trailer tires too!! It should only need a simple t-tap with a valve to do it so when the compressor is on regularly it will fill the bags, not pump air back into the compartment needlessly.

Sounds like the factory compressor option now. :-) Actually, you could easily put in a tee with a valve. The compressor switch is currently spring return so you have to hold it in full-time to get the compressor to run. You might want to add a remote so you can turn it on from the end of the hose you're at the tire with. That would be cool.

The Airlift compressor looks like the same guts as the $40 cheapies you plug into your accessory receptacles. Not meant for high duty cycles - it would overheat badly trying to reinflate four big tires you might air down to go through sand, for instance. If you're into that, you'll need a real compressor like the $250 VIAIR. But for top-offs and trailer tires, the Airlift is fine.

Actually, now I think about it, installed as I did, with the external Schrader valve by the wiring connector for manual airbag inflation, you could just get a hose with a screw-on Schrader connection for that end, and a normal inflator connection at the other end, and viola! Done! The T is already there, and so is the valve!

Oh, boy. Now I can tell my Jeep friends I have "on board air" just like them! Hehe. Next, an on-board welder!

jimmyjam
11-04-2005, 08:52 PM
http://www.roadie.org/hose1.JPG
just for my information, do you have a bose (non-premium) system? that amp looks nothing like my old one.

ScarabEpic22
11-05-2005, 03:42 AM
just for my information, do you have a bose (non-premium) system? that amp looks nothing like my old one.
Ya know what? Now that I look closer, I agree with jimmy. My 02 with bose premium has an amp that looks nothing like that! It could just be the year differences though...

ScarabEpic22
11-05-2005, 03:47 AM
Roadie- Thanks for the feedback. I didnt know the switch was spring loaded so you have to hold it down. What would be cool is to use an auxillary input on my aftermarket alarm system (currently deciding between the Viper 771XV and the Code Alarm CA-670 premium) to be able to run the compressor from in the back. That would be sweet! I was thinking that maybe I should get the Load Controller 1 for extra beefeness for tires, but then again it would just be for topping off tires on trips and checking the boat trailer tires.

How long does it take you to fill the bags when holding the switch? I would like to make my switch non-spring loaded, but I think it is much safer that way. It cant be left on and expload a bag!

the roadie
11-05-2005, 07:31 PM
just for my information, do you have a bose (non-premium) system? that amp looks nothing like my old one.

That's a 2004 Bose amp.

the roadie
11-05-2005, 07:37 PM
Roadie- Thanks for the feedback. I didnt know the switch was spring loaded so you have to hold it down.
How long does it take you to fill the bags when holding the switch? I would like to make my switch non-spring loaded, but I think it is much safer that way. It cant be left on and expload a bag!

The switch comes that way in the Airlift kit. It takes about a minute to fill both bags from 5 to 35 PSI, and the rear lifts about an inch to boot.

I forgot to mention that the gauge I used was not the one that came in the current Airlift kit. That one has a white face and is an extra 1/2" diameter. I could find NO place I liked better than the console to mount it, but the original one was just too fat. So I scrounged in the garage and discovered this older Airlift gauge with the black face that had come with an old manual fill kit I was going to use on some Monroe air shocks I had on my previous tow vehicle, a GMC Safari van.

You can probably guess I'm a pack rat. :duh: