BDS Problem :-(

[Element207]

Well me and two buddies started putting my lift on today and eveything was going well... had it all compressed then went to take the top bolt off and realized we couldnt use an allen wrench because it was all rusted over and stripped. AHHHHHHH!!! anyone have any ideas on how I could get it off?

[LMMJ]

Well me and two buddies started putting my lift on today and eveything was going well... had it all compressed then went to take the top bolt off and realized we couldnt use an allen wrench because it was all rusted over and stripped. AHHHHHHH!!! anyone have any ideas on how I could get it off?

If you're replacing the front shocks just use vice grips on the lower part of the piston rod. If you are re-using them try and compress the shock boot as much as possible upward and use the vice grips as far up as possible on the piston rod.

[Element207]

http://www.roadie.org/bds14.jpg
the screw on top of the shock is the one we cant get the bolt off. Roadies pick btw.

[unkljon]

have you tried to soak it in wd40 overnight. Or you can use a torch to heat it up to expand the metal

[Element207]

have you tried to soak it in wd40 overnight. Or you can use a torch to heat it up to expand the metal

yeah I used wd40 but it still didnt work... the problem is that we cant get the allen wrench in the whole. Well we can get it on but there isnt any grip. When we go to loosen the bolt it just spins because its all stripped from being rusty.

[the roadie]

have you tried to soak it in wd40 overnight. Or you can use a torch to heat it up to expand the metalPB Blaster. Don't use torches around pressurized shocks. If you're putting in new shocks, you can even use a Vise-grip on the threads ABOVE the nut to hold it from turning. It will mess up the threads, but you can get the nut started turning. Then put the Visegrips below the nut, and the nut will blast through the damaged threads and come off. Or you can use a Dremel with one of those 1/64 inch thick cutoff wheels to cut off the threaded rod.

A very common problem, as it turns out. Except in SoCal. :p

[Element207]

PB Blaster. Don't use torches around pressurized shocks. If you're putting in new shocks, you can even use a Vise-grip on the threads ABOVE the nut to hold it from turning. It will mess up the threads, but you can get the nut started turning. Then put the Visegrips below the nut, and the nut will blast through the damaged threads and come off. Or you can use a Dremel with one of those 1/64 inch thick cutoff wheels to cut off the threaded rod.

A very common problem, as it turns out. Except in SoCal. :p

cool thanks for th suggestions... i think ill have to get some new front shocks and just use a vise grip. How much are some new HD Bilstiens? I think ill just wait till i get some then put the lift on. Ill check it out in the morning... have SAT's tomorow so im gona go get some rest before i go decide my future tomorow :hissy:

[Gearhead2012]

Good luck on the SAT's...and don't put too much pressure on yourself. It does mean something, but most colleges really look at the courses you take, and overall proficiency, not just a score on one test.

On a different note... shockwarehouse.com has great deals on shocks. I got mine shipped for something like 107 or so, if you use the discount code "blazevoy". That's the route I would take...and in fact, I've got a set of the HD bilstiens sitting in my room, waiting to be put on. i figured since i'm tearing it all appart, might as well replace the shocks, upgrade them really, while I'm at it. I ordered my BDS kit today with the upgraded rears to gas. SHould be here by the end of next week, and I absolutly can not wait. Good luck with everything...let us know how it turns out.

As another side note...a lot of times, I can't get an allen wrench into a hole, a star fitting, or torx bit, will fit really, really close, and get the job done just as well. You may want to try that, rather than mangling everything.

[Sparty]

What I did was to take a screwdriver, put it through one of the gaps in the coil spring and push the plastic shock boot down (Inside the boot is a polyurethane like bumpstop a few inches long that also holds the boot up). Then you can put the vice grips through the coil spring gap on the top of the shaft. If you do damage the shaft and you want to keep using the original shocks, when you put the assemble back together the damaged part of the shaft will be covered by the bumpstop inside the boot. That part of the shaft can't go into the shock because the bumpstop is covering the top couple of inches. The hard part is pushing the bumpstop back up to the top, you need something strong, thin and only a little flexable. I found a paint can wooden stir stick worked well.

If you do plan to keep the original shocks you might want to clean the threads up with a wire wheel before removing the nut so they won't get damaged, and ofcourse use PB Blaster to loosen things up.

Element, if you have very many miles on your '02, you might just want to upgrade you shocks while you're in there.

[BluavalancheZ71]

I had that same exact issue when I was installing my lift. The fix I had I found a thread chaser to remove the rust off the stud of the shock. I used am impact to attempt to removed the nut but it bound up. After removing the rust used the impact again and off she came.

[Gearhead2012]

I'll be putting mine on in the next week or so...the first day I have off after it gets here, so I think I'm gonna go coat mine really good in PB blaster a couple nights this week, and really good the night before I tear it all down. Any other pointers for the install?

[Element207]

cool thanks everyone for the info. Im just gona go ahead and get some new HD bilsteins. The lift install seemed really simple. We of course only got to trying to install the spacer before we had to stop but it seemed to go really well until then. I just followed the BDS directions... they are on the spot.

[the roadie]

Any other pointers for the install?Starting the week in advance with PB Blaster was something I mentioned in a post last month. It should really be in an FAQ somewhere. Not specifically the offroad forum, since everybody should be changing out their shocks. Get the right tools, a pittman arm puller and heavy, heavy duty spring compressors. Lubricate the screw threads on the spring compressors. Look at my many pictures. Be ready with a small bottle jack to push down on the lower control arm to get the strut back into place. Take height measurements on the wheelwell before and after to make yourself feel better about the lift. Size matters. Don't pay too much for gas. :D

[Gearhead2012]

Starting the week in advance with PB Blaster was something I mentioned in a post last month. It should really be in an FAQ somewhere. Not specifically the offroad forum, since everybody should be changing out their shocks. Get the right tools, a pittman arm puller and heavy, heavy duty spring compressors. Lubricate the screw threads on the spring compressors. Look at my many pictures. Be ready with a small bottle jack to push down on the lower control arm to get the strut back into place. Take height measurements on the wheelwell before and after to make yourself feel better about the lift. Size matters. Don't pay too much for gas. :D

Cool...thanks. I feel pretty comfortable about it, and should be able to get it installed on Friday, if it's here yet. So, with the bottle jack, you mean to spread the upper and lower control arms to get the whole strut assembly back in?? This would make sense I guess, as it's giong to be a little taller, and a little stiffer than before. As far as the rear, I've read that it's best to use a floor jack on the rear diff to ease it down, so as not to strain brake lines...anything else important I should know about that? Thanks a lot Roadie, and trust that I've been devouring every picture I can.

[ScarabEpic22]

I used a hacksaw on the drivers side one on my 02, it was rusted too and I was beyond frustrated plus I was installing HD Bilsteins anyway.

[the roadie]

So, with the bottle jack, you mean to spread the upper and lower control arms to get the whole strut assembly back in?? This would make sense I guess, as it's giong to be a little taller, and a little stiffer than before. As far as the rear, I've read that it's best to use a floor jack on the rear diff to ease it down, so as not to strain brake lines...anything else important I should know about that? The steering knuckle and ball joints tie the upper and lower control arms together, so the bottle jack can't move them in relation to each other. I meant to push on the lower control arm a bit in relation to the frame. The anti-sway bar sometimes wants to pull up on the lower control arm unless you have both struts off at a time. Usually only a 3/8" of an inch problem getting the lower strut yoke mount back onto its tapered pin.

In the rear, yes, indeed, you need to jack up the frame and support it well, then put the floor jack back underneath the differential and take a bit of load off it. Then remove the rear shocks, since they are the down-limiting element of the suspension. To pry the springs out sometimes requires a tiny bit of force on the rear axle beyond its own weight to get more stress off the springs. Another recommendation to eliminate one possible source of clunking is to get the rear BDS spacers just about ready for their final fit (you'll be trying multiple times to get the right depth on the three bolts on each side - the ones with the loctite on them.) Just before the final installation, run a small bead of RTV around the top of the spacer to form a little gasket and stop any chance of clunking. Then put in the spacer. Then enjoy the game of "pound the rear springs back onto their perch." Anybody putting in SuspensionMAXX or BDS spacers knows how this game goes. You will, too. A 3 pound mini-sledge and a short length of 2X4, or a "wonder bar" flat mini-pry bar are my favorite accessories to bring to this game. :D :cool:

[Element207]

hey everyone... anyone ever delt with rancho shocks? I can get a pair for like 5 bucks at my local off road shop. Planning on getting the lift on this weekend.

[the roadie]

hey everyone... anyone ever delt with rancho shocks? I can get a pair for like 5 bucks at my local off road shop. Planning on getting the lift on this weekend.Front or back? Didn't the BDS kit you bought come with rears?

$5 shocks may be worth exactly what you pay for 'em. I've heard both good and bad about Ranchos, 2/3 bad. YMMV.

[Element207]

Front or back? Didn't the BDS kit you bought come with rears?

$5 shocks may be worth exactly what you pay for 'em. I've heard both good and bad about Ranchos, 2/3 bad. YMMV.

yeah the kit came with rears but i am going to replace the front two. Im having some doubts about the Ranchos i havnt heard much good of them. Think ill stick with the HD's im gona head to the shop and figure it out tomorow. Thanks everyone for the help.

[Gearhead2012]

I actually started a thread about the rancho's vs. the bilstein. I was kinda on the fence...I could get a discount on the rancho's at work, but the HD Bilsteins were still like 60 bucks cheaper, just for the front, and I seemed to hear more about them with positive results. I think both would be a great improvement over stock. If you do a search for that thread...some people put in their two cents on which they've tried. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Heavy Duty Bilsteins, and they await the BDS kit to be installed.

[BluavalancheZ71]

If you have issues with getting the rear springs back in, use the diff as a lever and pull down on each side. This will allow a little more room for the spring to go back in. I used this trick to get my rear springs back in after about 5 minutes scratching me head and thinking about it. I would also suggest removing the 2 bolts that hold on the parking brake cables on each side this allows the axle to come down about an inch further. It has a 10mm head on it and there is one on each side.

Hope this helps
Blu