Broken fan clutch or not? [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: Broken fan clutch or not?


flyinhawaiian
05-08-2007, 11:15 PM
I know it's another fan clutch post but let me say that I have spent days on trailvoy looking at all the fan clutch posts but have not come up with a answer to my problem.
I own a 2003 Trailblazer, 4x4, Lt
It started last week (sounding like an f-18 under the hood) but would only happen for several min. if not shorter. It will always turn off. It will happen sometimes but not always when I start my car ( I thought that the fluid might have drained out and this was just getting everything back to working order?). It turned on once while I was doing 65 down the freeway. I took the boat out yesterday and it came on for the first few min's but then shut off, "I really could have used the performance that it stole from me".

I have tried reving the motor up to 2500 rpm but it didn't shut off, I tried cleaning the unit and the fan for obstructions.

I have read that some Trailblazers do this but from my recall I did not have this problem last year. Any help would be great, I don't think I can take my girl saying "Ha it sounds like your car asthma" anymore.

ScarabEpic22
05-09-2007, 02:02 AM
Well if it roars like a mofo for the first minute or two thats normal, its when it starts staying on longer and longer until it finally never goes off is when it becomes a problem.

woody6725
05-09-2007, 03:06 AM
i was watching my temps because it runs right at 210 (by the gauge) and i thought the fan clutch was going out. then i read on here that the fan stays on when it goes bad, so i guess that's a good thing. i'd rather have the fan roaring and lose some power than sitting on the side of the road with steam pouring out, but from what i've read these things just tend to run hot.

rbarrios
05-09-2007, 01:57 PM
thats one of the symptoms full roar.....
The symptoms on mine were that I started to see the temps rise as I sat in traffic. If I drove it then went down...
so in my case the fan clutch didnt engage at the correct revolutions it should have been at.
they tested with a tech 2 - gave it the command to spin at X revolutions- when it failed to do this- they knew it was bad.

PAblzr
05-09-2007, 05:00 PM
[quote=flyinhawaiian;342373]
It started last week (sounding like an f-18 under the hood) but would only happen for several min. if not shorter. It will always turn off. It will happen sometimes but not always when I start my car. quote]

Pretty close to my 2002's symptoms. The "happens sometimes" became more and more frequent as time went by. Replaced at dealer under extended warrenty with new and improved (different part #) fan. No problems since.

synthes02
05-09-2007, 06:45 PM
Does anyone know the cost of a new fan clutch?
Is this something i can replace myself?
I am mechanically inclined , i fix one time and remember forever.
I had to add this comment , why is this not a recall when it happens to so many of our trucks?

Dshow
05-09-2007, 08:25 PM
I have an '03 LT 4x4 also and it is happening to me too...

Here is a link to when I asked the question ->
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4679030#post4679030

rbarrios
05-10-2007, 12:31 PM
price depends on where you buy it. Ebay I think theyre about $120. But make sure its the most recent part #.
Seems the hard part to the replacement is getting the clutch off... need to use a clutch tool.
When mine went out- dealer did the work.

synthes02
05-10-2007, 08:40 PM
I found one on ebay for $138.95 and $8.00 to ship it.
The vendor is am-autoparts , not sure if it's the most recent part#
My buddy and i will install as soon as it comes in.
I can't believe how embarassingly loud it sounds right now, sometimes GM just pisses me off with there engineering issues.
Anyway peace i'm out:cool:

Dave
05-10-2007, 10:50 PM
It must be almost summer because there are a lot of cooling or A/C issues tonight. My A/C just quit working tonight but I think it was the relay because after I "dropped checked" it, it is working good now.

Watch where you buy the fan clutch from. A few members spent mega $$$ buying the correct fan clutch after the cheap one that they bought didn't fit.

bullethole
05-14-2007, 10:47 AM
Double check the parts on ebay. They may be aftermarket. I cannot vouch for their quality and who knows if they are the same as the updated Delco part.I bought mine off ebay for $40 (Delco & lucky). There were no aftermarket at that time. Good advice about the removal tool. Do a search on how to correctly use it. There pics on this forum.

synthes02
05-15-2007, 08:13 PM
How long will these fan clutches last?
If i got an older part# instead of the updated part.:cool:
I want a professional answer please(no guesses) :yes:

RozmerJJ
05-16-2007, 08:40 AM
Well there are no "professional" answers to this question. Some of them last for a very long time and others fail rather quickly. This is the reason that they came out with the revised part number. My wife has an 02' with 98K on the clock and still has the original fan clutch, others have reported that they have replaced theirs as early as 15K.

:weird:

PROSPHOTO
05-16-2007, 09:21 AM
Well there are no "professional" answers to this question. Some of them last for a very long time and others fail rather quickly. This is the reason that they came out with the revised part number. My wife has an 02' with 98K on the clock and still has the original fan clutch, others have reported that they have replaced theirs as early as 15K.

:weird:

:iagree:...It's pretty much hit or miss :undecided

You'll find owners that have had their trucks for 4 years since new and never needed any warranty repairs; you'll also find owners that have to go to the dealer for warranty repairs every season for years...Every truck is going to be different :yes:

macmic87
05-18-2007, 10:32 PM
when my fan clutch locked up it set a code and when the code was retrieved it stated excesive fan speed (duh). new fan clutch from dealer cost 250.

rinbea
07-02-2008, 09:58 AM
I just wanted to provide the site with my experience on replacing the Fan Clutch (2004 Trailblazer w/47,000 miles - has had regular service since I bought it new).


Jun 16 - Service Engine Light came on. Took it in for regular service.

Jun 24 - Battery dies. Charge it up & is dead again in 2 days. So I replaced the battery.

Jun 26 - Check Gage light comes on. The temp gage is all the way over in the red. Then beeps start going off. Turned off engine and waited 10 minutes. Restarted and the temp gage was fine. When I got home, I turned off the car and then restarted it. While in park the gage again went over to the red. But no warning message on the instrument panel.

Later in the day when husband came home he checked the fluid and there was zero coolant in it. Added some and took it to dealership.

Service dept called to say I needed to replace the Fan Clutch system. Here's what the invoice says:

Labor & Parts:
#21cvz Cooling System. Code P0483 Bad Coolant Fan
2
Replace Coolant Fan
FP Number 25790869 Clutch 1.050 2Y C $349.80
Labor $349.80
___________________________________________
Total Labor & Parts $700.80
Tax 55.19
____________________________________________
Total Invoice $755.99


There was never any loud noises or noticable change in the ac.

exttb
07-04-2008, 12:34 PM
leave it in until it throws a code or sticks for a long time ..I changed three and now have efans on my 2003 I6

iic1tls
09-03-2008, 12:09 AM
I own a 2003 Envoy XL/SLT 42L6 2WD.

The fan clutch is electrically actuated. The electrical umbilical is on the side of the fan shroud, towards the top. (I think it was on the drivers side?)

Normally, at start up, the computer may choose to engage or release the fan clutch, regardless of current idle temperature. Some days, I have come out and started the truck cold and immediately started to drive away, and the fan clutch would disengage. Yep - it sounded like a helicopter pilot pulling his collective, however, the clutch would re-engage (and the fan disconnect from the belt drive) at around 800 RPM indicated. I have never had the fan clutch remain disengaged beyond about 800 RPMs.

Other times when the truck was at normal operating temperature, the fan clutch would seem to remain engaged (the fan was disconnected from the drive belt). It would seem that the computer was OK with the amount of cooling air flowing through the radiator...

If your fan clutch seems to be sticking and the fan remains engaged even at 'high' RPMs, I would recommend that you check that fan clutch electrical umbilical. The plug is black, and my wiring is wrapped in electrical tape. Is the plug loose? Is the wiring damaged?

Next, is the fan itself damaged? With the engine off, and the engine cool, stand over the fan and grab two fan blades try to 'gently' lift the fan. If there is ANY play (lateral/vertical) in the fan shaft (even 1 ~ 2 mm of play - yep - you can feel it...), the water pump is worn out. If the play is severe enough, you may have a cracked fan clutch.

With the engine off, and the key removed, you should be able to turn the fan with your hands. There will be a slight resistance when you turn it - but it should not be locked. A strong yank should cause the fan to rotate appr 1/2 turn. If the fan is locked (you cant turn it at all), the fan clutch is damaged.

When you rotate the fan, the fan should turn with slight resistance. If you feel grinding or intermittant binding, then the clutch is damaged.

silver ghost
09-03-2008, 12:26 AM
Hello! I have a 2003 trailblazer and was having the same problem. You might as well purchase a new one, because the factory one is a piece of junk..Not at all hard to do your self with the right tools from a parts store.They will loan you the tool free..:)

Envoy Fan
09-03-2008, 10:00 AM
Just go clutchless. Get the efan kit from www.pcmforless.com and never have a fan clutch problem again.

rockman20
09-05-2008, 12:03 PM
Interesting to learn that when the clutch goes out it should stay on.

We came back from WI this past weekend. It's about a 320 mile trip one way. Left WI with around 80 degree weather. The HVAC was set to 68 on my side and 72 on the passenger side.

When we were almost to ND, I noticed the temp gauge was a little above 210. But then I saw also that the outside temp was 92 so I didn't think too much about it. We got into ND and got off the interstate and stopped at the first light. The temp gauge was now almost to the red. No warning dings, no roaring of the fan under the hood, just normal.

It did drop a little but not much at all when we started moving. The needle dropped to between the 210 and 245 or whatever the top is. And it would climb anytime we stopped.

But no SES light and no codes so there is nothing wrong with it.

buck07ls
12-02-2008, 11:10 AM
I have(as you can read :duh:) an '07 Trailblazer with just shy of 30k and it makes that load "jet fan" roar. has anyone else had this problem out of this new of a TrailVoy?? :confused: I just had the a/c module replaced because it went bad, and I don't know, but I think it got worse. Anything and everything is of help. I'm mildly regreting the sale of my '96 blazer... :laugh: :thx

Super 88
12-02-2008, 11:56 AM
I have(as you can read :duh:) an '07 Trailblazer with just shy of 30k and it makes that load "jet fan" roar. has anyone else had this problem out of this new of a TrailVoy?? :confused: I just had the a/c module replaced because it went bad, and I don't know, but I think it got worse. Anything and everything is of help. I'm mildly regreting the sale of my '96 blazer... :laugh: :thx

Not unheard of at 30K miles. Mine was replaced about then, but not because it was roaring, but because the a/c worked poorly at low speeds.
It's hit or miss - some people have no problems for 100K miles or more - others have replaced the fan clutch 2 or 3 times by then. Go figure!

Just as a warning - it's also fairly common for the water pump to go after the fan clutch has been replaced. Usually within a year or so.

Lyle
12-16-2008, 02:00 PM
Here is my experience with the fan clutch on my 2003 LTZ. 130,000 kms
It started with intermittent fan roar then the P0495 code ( fan overspeed).
The GM dealer fan clutch price Cdn$500 or Cdn $300 from NAPA.
Some of the other posts made it sound easy to change the clutch, but on mine the front grill & lights needed to be removed to be able to tip the rad forward about 2" so the shroud and fan could be lifted past the top rad hose connector. As far as the special tools to remove the clutch, I used a cresent wrench with a short pipe cheater on the hex shaft and then I made a tool from an 1/8" x 2" x 18" flat bar with a 3/8" hole at one corner. Remove one fan pulley bolt and install the flat bar to hold the pulley. Total time to replace 2 hrs.

PAblzr
12-16-2008, 02:50 PM
As far as the special tools to remove the clutch, ..... I made a tool from an 1/8" x 2" x 18" flat bar with a 3/8" hole at one corner. Remove one fan pulley bolt and install the flat bar to hold the pulley. Total time to replace 2 hrs.
I love homemade tools that only do one job on only one motor vehicle. If you looked at the handmade tools way in the back of the bottom drawer of my tool chest and the dust covered ones hanging on the garage wall you would have a guide to most of the cars, trucks, and motoorcycles I have owned over the years.

Can you post a picture or sketch (with dimensions) of your DIY flat bar tool? Some members have not had good luck with the Auto Zone/ Pep Boys/ Kragen loaner tool.

markarock
12-16-2008, 05:02 PM
Check out the end of this thread for pics of my two hole tool.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=19604&page=2

I never thought about making a tool with only one hole. I have a mig welder so it was easy enough to make mine a two-holer. If one hole will work, then it is a no-brainer for almost anybody to make their own tool.

Just a note regarding the mention of having to remove the grille to tilt the radiator forward. I originally thought that is what I was going to have to do, but it actually wasn't necessary. If you know it can be done, you have won half the battle. It CAN be done without removing the grille. I had to gorilla it a bit to get it out, but surprisingly it went back together with little fuss.

The only tip I would offer is to remember to remove the seals at the bottom sides of the radiator shroud. You will never get it out without unhooking them. Took me a while to figure this part of the job out.

bdoc70
12-19-2008, 02:32 PM
Just finished replacing my fan clutch and water pump on 2004 Trailblazer LS 4X4. I had to take out the grill and whatnot to get the radiator to move far enough to remove everything. The loaner tools from the local Autozone were not the correct tools for the job, so I struggled with it for a while and even tried a few suggestions, but to no avail. I wound up getting it out, but couldn't get the water pump off the fan clutch.
Took a walk over to a local Chevy dealer and they were nice enough to take it apart for me free of charge. Took them about five minutes. Everything back together and working solid. My CEL cleared up shortly thereafter.

gmcman
01-13-2009, 09:58 PM
Guys, gals....when you hear the jet roar when pulling away this is normal.

The fan is ECM controlled and when functioning correctly, it will engage with authority and move crazy amounts of air. What happens when you shut the vehicle down, any vehicle for that matter, the engine is still hot but the coolant is no longer circulating. Now there is nothing to cool it off and goes into a "heat bath".

The block doesn't cool instantly, takes awhile. What happens is the hot engine now heats up the coolant even more and this generally happens when you pull off a highway and come to a stop shortly afterwards. The ECM allows the fan to engage but you shut the motor off, now in order to get the fan back into an "idling" mode, you have to spin the fluid out of the clutch which is the roar you hear and then it gradually tapers off.

This will happen on occasions when you time the shutoff with the fan engaging, not every time. The truck may sit overnight like this, you cannot disengage the fan until the fluid is out of the clutch assy.

Some will stay engaged then this is a problem, I have 110K miles and it still roars on occasion but stops shortly afterwards.

scott39
01-21-2009, 10:17 AM
Guys, gals....when you hear the jet roar when pulling away this is normal.

The fan is ECM controlled and when functioning correctly, it will engage with authority and move crazy amounts of air. What happens when you shut the vehicle down, any vehicle for that matter, the engine is still hot but the coolant is no longer circulating. Now there is nothing to cool it off and goes into a "heat bath".

The block doesn't cool instantly, takes awhile. What happens is the hot engine now heats up the coolant even more and this generally happens when you pull off a highway and come to a stop shortly afterwards. The ECM allows the fan to engage but you shut the motor off, now in order to get the fan back into an "idling" mode, you have to spin the fluid out of the clutch which is the roar you hear and then it gradually tapers off.

This will happen on occasions when you time the shutoff with the fan engaging, not every time. The truck may sit overnight like this, you cannot disengage the fan until the fluid is out of the clutch assy.

Some will stay engaged then this is a problem, I have 110K miles and it still roars on occasion but stops shortly afterwards.

How do you get the fluid out of the clutch assy.? My fan is stuck right now. We have had really cold weather here in PA. I have an 02 LT trailblazer.

I was reading some other threads and thought it might be the throttle body so I cleaned that and the jet noise is still there as well as lack of acceleration when starting out. Acceleration seems to be better at higher speeds...but fan, I guess, is staying engaged.

Thanks for any help or suggestions you can provide. Trying to save as much money as possible.

Scott

scott39
01-21-2009, 12:30 PM
How do you get the fluid out of the clutch assy.? My fan is stuck right now. We have had really cold weather here in PA. I have an 02 LT trailblazer.

I was reading some other threads and thought it might be the throttle body so I cleaned that and the jet noise is still there as well as lack of acceleration when starting out. Acceleration seems to be better at higher speeds...but fan, I guess, is staying engaged.

Thanks for any help or suggestions you can provide. Trying to save as much money as possible.

Scott

UPDATE:

Ok I think it is fixed for now. I read some more and decided to try running it up to 2500 RPM to disengage the fan...it finally did disengage once I got it to 3000RPM. Whew!!!

Thanks to all the people who take time to post info. It sure is helpful. Now to find info on my other two issues. :0

Scott

kenny032004
02-21-2009, 09:29 AM
I had an 03 LTZ 4X4, and it did it for about 2 weeks, but no toher problems. I lost a lot of power, but everything else was ok. I spa-rayed a bunch of wd-40 at the fan, and with the help of my lead foot, it went away. it comes on from time to time, but other than that, nothing. By the way.... I just totaled my 03 LTZ on monday. i ran over slush, lost control and hit my base's perimeter fence. totaled. atleast i got $9,673 for it. thank god for insurance and GAP coverage!!

kenny032004
02-21-2009, 09:31 AM
I forgot to mention, my 03 LTZ had 115762 miles on it. nothing was wrong. until the fence jumped out at me!!! :(

21kart
03-05-2009, 07:56 PM
Maybe I missed something in the many posts I have read regarding fan clutch problems but I have NOT read a solution to my particular situation.

<<< FAN CLUTCH STAYS ENGAGED AT ALL TIMES >>>>

'02 Envoy 4200 Inline 6

Is repair an option ???? or am I looking at new parts / replacement ????

Except for performance / fuel economy all other functions are working in good order; i.e. temp.

markarock
03-06-2009, 12:05 AM
In my opinion you are looking at replacing the fan clutch. Staying on all the time without throwing a code is not unusual. Be sure to get the latest part number.

Super 88
03-06-2009, 12:11 AM
Maybe I missed something in the many posts I have read regarding fan clutch problems but I have NOT read a solution to my particular situation.

<<< FAN CLUTCH STAYS ENGAGED AT ALL TIMES >>>>

'02 Envoy 4200 Inline 6

Is repair an option ???? or am I looking at new parts / replacement ????

Except for performance / fuel economy all other functions are working in good order; i.e. temp.

You haven't found a post with the fan clutch stays engaged all the time? Maybe they worded it different - but this has been discussed MANY times over the years.
It happens with these fan clutches. As was mentioned above - get a new fan clutch. The OEM really are better, and make sure it's the latest part number. I KNOW that has been discussed before.

Edit: The first post I came to after entering fan clutch engaged was this one:
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=19604&highlight=fan+clutch+engaged

post number 12
"It runs engaged all the time, but will not set off the SES light."

Anyhow, here is another thread with the new part number (which is #25790869)
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=50708&highlight=fan+clutch+engaged

post number 3

gmcman
03-14-2009, 11:35 AM
Sorry been a long while since my last posts, yes, generally you need about 3K to get the fluid out of the clutch quickly, but not necesssary. Generally a short distance at lower RPM,s will evacuate the fluid from the clutch head.

The fluid is sealed, you can't get to it.

It can be embarassing at times but if you run it at 3K for a mile and it's still howling...there's a prob.

21kart
03-15-2009, 01:07 PM
The other day I replaced the fan clutch assembly in my '02 Envoy, 115k miles, after reading ALL posts on this topic.

My approach was a little different as I did not remove the shroud, coolant, radiator or fan from the vehicle as I read some did. The entire job took about 1.5 hours; taking my time to be careful not to damage neighboring parts like the radiator. It was not necessary to make or purchase any special tools. If anyone is about to undertake this job on their vehicle, I would be happy to supply details of exactly what I did to get it done. Maybe it could save you some time and expense.

05Gblazer
02-24-2010, 11:28 AM
Alright here it goes: I have a 05 tb with 65k about 5 months ago I replace my secondary air induction pump (the little one by the tranny dipstick off the block) that fixed my code problem now about a month ago my car started makeing an almost grinding rattleing noise.I checked it out and saw a pulley was frozen so I replaced it ( the one under the alternator) the noise is still there and gettin louder.its horrible when first starts and continues until I get up over about 25-30mph.its almost like a knocking sound I'm thinking its a fan clutch from the threads I've read they go bad a lot but I figured it I'd put this up and see what I get for a response.once again the noise is nasty when first starts then quites down but is always there

Dr Fildo
03-04-2010, 05:25 PM
Just replaced my fan clutch today. Took me about an hour and 45 mins. Hardest part is getting the fan and shroud w/ the clutch up and out. Didn't solve my problem. Roars louder now and still have no power, like the tranny is slipping.