Finally, Drilled & Slotted Rotors.

[Chi-TownSS]

Check these out on e-bay, anybody ever heard of this company?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-2007-Trailblazer-SS-Brake-Rotors-WITH-Pads_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ018QQite mZ280136398793

Custom colors too! :drool

[justblazin]

They are a reputable company.. I bought 2 sets of rotors off of them, 1 set for my Grand Prix and 1 set for my Monte Carlo SS.. Their quality is great, he ships fast!!!

They get a :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Liquiddi]

Are they coated so they don't rust? I hate rotors that don't have this. They look like junk after a week.

[BLAZEN03]

For the SS guys these are cool, but for the I-6 hmm, maybe not...

[KNBlazer]

For the SS guys these are cool, but for the I-6 hmm, maybe not...


I have crossed drilled/ slotted rotors on my 4.2 TB ... they look sporty ... look nice.. I went with R1Concepts


http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/346/wheelvj0.jpg

[blu ya]

I have crossed drilled/ slotted rotors on my 4.2 TB ... they look sporty ... look nice.. I went with R1Concepts


http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/346/wheelvj0.jpg

:iagree: Same here, and they've been on for over a year and half!

[stump]

I think this is a great deal. Look at how much some of us spend on exhaust,grille inserts,etc.. I don't need brakes yet but I think if I did I would consider these!!

[speedracer1994]

EBC has upgraded pads and rotors for my 06 SS trailblazer
go check it out!!

[2002SLT]

EBC has upgraded pads and rotors for my 06 SS trailblazer
go check it out!!

We can stop quicker than any SUV out there, and most sports cars, as it is (60mph to 0 in ~120'). Why would we need to upgrade our brakes?

[ORIONSS]

We can stop quicker than any SUV out there, and most sports cars, as it is (60mph to 0 in ~120'). Why would we need to upgrade our brakes?


Brake fad maybe?

[gravanatuning]

We can stop quicker than any SUV out there, and most sports cars, as it is (60mph to 0 in ~120'). Why would we need to upgrade our brakes?

Many of our TBSS customers buying the EBC Rotors and Pads are in need of pad and/or rotor replacement anyway, and they want an increase in stopping power over OEM replacements.

Others have increased performance in their SS and they simply want additional braking efficiency to help slow them down quicker.

The SSBC Front kit is currently the best performance brake upgrade that we know of for the TBSS. It runs @ $1795 from us, but is worth every penny when you have that "OS" moment where you need to get your SS stopped ASAP. The rear kit works great too, but the front upgrade is where you see the most improvement.

[Liquiddi]

We can stop quicker than any SUV out there, and most sports cars, as it is (60mph to 0 in ~120'). Why would we need to upgrade our brakes?


for looks!

[2002SLT]

for looks!

That's what I figured. :thumbsup:

[PbFut]

Many of our TBSS customers buying the EBC Rotors and Pads are in need of pad and/or rotor replacement anyway, and they want an increase in stopping power over OEM replacements.

Others have increased performance in their SS and they simply want additional braking efficiency to help slow them down quicker.

The SSBC Front kit is currently the best performance brake upgrade that we know of for the TBSS. It runs @ $1795 from us, but is worth every penny when you have that "OS" moment where you need to get your SS stopped ASAP. The rear kit works great too, but the front upgrade is where you see the most improvement.

Unless you have upgraded tires with more grip, how does a BBK improve stopping performance other than fade if present? Your statement "Slow them down quicker" is misleading. The OEM can already slow the wheel faster than the tire can grip. The ABS chatter proves that. So adding more clamping force does what? Kick in the ABS sooner? How many owners complain of fade? We are not driving a canyon carver and the occasional drag strip blast will not fade the brake. Maybe if one is towing at or over capacity, but then they have other issues.

Full disclosure is needed here. The BBK will not shorten your stopping distance unless the present system can not clamp hard enought to lock the wheel. BBKs will improve performance only if you are over heating the present system and inducing fade.

[gravanatuning]

Unless you have upgraded tires with more grip, how does a BBK improve stopping performance other than fade if present? Your statement "Slow them down quicker" is misleading. The OEM can already slow the wheel faster than the tire can grip. The ABS chatter proves that. So adding more clamping force does what? Kick in the ABS sooner? How many owners complain of fade? We are not driving a canyon carver and the occasional drag strip blast will not fade the brake. Maybe if one is towing at or over capacity, but then they have other issues.

Full disclosure is needed here. The BBK will not shorten your stopping distance unless the present system can not clamp hard enought to lock the wheel. BBKs will improve performance only if you are over heating the present system and inducing fade.

Excellent point! The SS with just the front kit that I was so impressed with does have aftermarket wheels and tires, among other things. I drive my TBSS pretty hard (I even love it in the canyons!) and I tend to go through brakes more often than most. Brake fade due to overheating is an issue even with the OEM tires for me. I am a better candidate for a BBK rather than just upgraded rotors, SS lines & pads. However, most people I know do not push their vehicles to a limit that requires a BBK; most would be fine with a R/L/P upgrade. Especially if they are just the occasional weekend racer on OEM size/spec tires or they drive in adverse weather like dust or rain.

One thing I failed to mention earlier that I have found to be a common thread among our brake upgrade customers. Most people forget to upgrade soft OEM lines with performance brake lines. Once they upgrade the rest of the brake system, the weak link ends up being the brake lines.

On my Yukon, upgraded pads and slotted rotors worked better than OEM, especially in the rain. However, the brake lines were much more impressive of an upgrade than I had imagined. Especially when towing a car hauler or boat over my local "GrapeVine" and heating them up.

[rudyarias]

We can stop quicker than any SUV out there, and most sports cars, as it is (60mph to 0 in ~120'). Why would we need to upgrade our brakes?

Agree. The TBSS was tweaked on the Ring which is exceptionally brutal on transmission, suspension and brakes.

Brake fad maybe?

I use ATE Super Blue DOT 4 brake fluid, CarboTech XP10's on the front and XP8s on the rear with the OEM rotors. Have not had any issue with brake fade. I've tracked my TBSS at Road America several times, a road course known to be brutal on brakes second to the Ring.

[PbFut]

Agree. The TBSS was tweaked on the Ring which is exceptionally brutal on transmission, suspension and brakes.



I use ATE Super Blue DOT 4 brake fluid, CarboTech XP10's on the front and XP8s on the rear with the OEM rotors. Have not had any issue with brake fade. I've tracked my TBSS at Road America several times, a road course known to be brutal on brakes second to the Ring.
Whoa. That is a serious OEM config. track setup for most. I'm sure the weight of our truck makes up some but XP10 pads are a full race compound requiring a great deal of heat before they work. You are going to eat the rotors alive on the street.

I have used Carbos on my race car for a couple years. 12 front 10 rear. Without heat in them, they are pretty useless. Once hot you can pop your eyeballs out with them.

I posted a couple months back looking OEM configuration pad options for towing. Ended up with OEM pads as I just could not find anything in our size. Maybe next time around.

[rudyarias]

Whoa. That is a serious OEM config. track setup for most. I'm sure the weight of our truck makes up some but XP10 pads are a full race compound requiring a great deal of heat before they work. You are going to eat the rotors alive on the street.

I have used Carbos on my race car for a couple years. 12 front 10 rear. Without heat in them, they are pretty useless. Once hot you can pop your eyeballs out with them.

I posted a couple months back looking OEM configuration pad options for towing. Ended up with OEM pads as I just could not find anything in our size. Maybe next time around.

I've never had any issues with the XP10s/8s cold with the exception of squeal. The brakes often warm up pretty quick as I left foot brake through apexes on and off the track. I would have went with Wilwood Hs but those pads are brutal on rotors and its dust on wheels. CarboTechs are a ceramic racing compound whose resin does not eat through clear coat/paint like the Hawks and Wilwoods. Also CarboTechs are easier on rotors. I trailer my Z06 or Z16 to the track for DEs. My avatar is am image of my TBSS through turn 14 at Road America.

[mcgyver7923]

Rudy,
I have tracked my SS at beaverun and I blasted through 30% of the stock pad in 2 30 minute sessions!! What tires are you running? Have you done anything else to the truck to help it hold up on the track? Do you have the brake cooling ducts? My brakes definately got too hot and the fluid boiled a bit. Do you run SS lines?

Thanks for any input!!

[rudyarias]

Rudy,
I have tracked my SS at beaverun and I blasted through 30% of the stock pad in 2 30 minute sessions!! What tires are you running? Have you done anything else to the truck to help it hold up on the track? Do you have the brake cooling ducts? My brakes definately got too hot and the fluid boiled a bit. Do you run SS lines?

Thanks for any input!!

I've been very fortunate to develop strong friendships with GM engineers at GM Performance Div/High Performance Vehicle Operations at Milford. They were invaluable when it came to "prep" my TBSS for the road course.

I set the suspension to the actual specification used on the TBSS test vehicles at the NurberRing. I have the GM Brake cooling ducts and a duct spindle holder by Quantum Engineering plus lowered it to a 15mm max drop to keep out of jounce bumpers (and keep reasonable ride). Do not trim jounce bumpers at all - nothing good will come from it.

For 15mm drop in front, remove front shocks, remove springs from shock, and remove lower spring perch and snap ring. Motion ratio of front spring is 6mm spring = 10mm wheel. 15mm wheel drop requires spring seat (groove cut into shock body) to be recut 9mm lower. This will result in 15mm wheel drop @ front. With Nivomat rear suspension, follow attached proceedure for setting rear levelers, just use 95mm for D-height instead of 110mm.

Tires are the Goodyear Eagle RS-A which came with the TBSS. Only difference is that I filled them with Nitrogen (35 psi).

The handling dramatically improved when dropped by the 15mm. You will notice the ride to be harsher than the one set from the factory.

[mcgyver7923]

I've been very fortunate to develop strong friendships with GM engineers at GM Performance Div/High Performance Vehicle Operations at Milford. They were invaluable when it came to "prep" my TBSS for the road course.

I set the suspension to the actual specification used on the TBSS test vehicles at the NurberRing. I have the GM Brake cooling ducts and a duct spindle holder by Quantum Engineering plus lowered it to a 15mm max drop to keep out of jounce bumpers (and keep reasonable ride). Do not trim jounce bumpers at all - nothing good will come from it.

For 15mm drop in front, remove front shocks, remove springs from shock, and remove lower spring perch and snap ring. Motion ratio of front spring is 6mm spring = 10mm wheel. 15mm wheel drop requires spring seat (groove cut into shock body) to be recut 9mm lower. This will result in 15mm wheel drop @ front. With Nivomat rear suspension, follow attached proceedure for setting rear levelers, just use 95mm for D-height instead of 110mm.

Tires are the Goodyear Eagle RS-A which came with the TBSS. Only difference is that I filled them with Nitrogen (35 psi).

The handling dramatically improved when dropped by the 15mm. You will notice the ride to be harsher than the one set from the factory.

Thank you so much for that info!! That is GREAT INFO!! Why nitrogen in the tires? with only 32 PSI do you chew the shoulders off of them? Also there was no procedure attached for the Nivomat adjustment. Can you post that?

Thank you so very much!!:woot:

[mcgyver7923]

One more question...how is your trans holding up? Did you make any fluid changes on the truck to prepare for track use?

Thank you very much!!:thx

[zepcom]

Why nitrogen in the tires?

I remember when got new Michelins on my Grand Prix at the local tire shop here in Buffalo, NY (Dunn tire) they put Nitrogen in my new set of 4 tires.

They said that Nitrogen is much less prone to temperature/environmental changes than plain air.
You know when one day it's hot outside and your tires look fine, then the next morning the driveway is cold and your tires look flatter?
The cold weather makes air-filled tires lose some pressure -- not so much with nitrogen filled tires.

Also... after a while the nitrogen does seep out slightly (pourus aluminum) you can still fill it up with regular air, the benefits of nitrogen are lessened, but oh well!

--zepcom

[superblue]

see you at the party richter!

[mcgyver7923]

I remember when got new Michelins on my Grand Prix at the local tire shop here in Buffalo, NY (Dunn tire) they put Nitrogen in my new set of 4 tires.

They said that Nitrogen is much less prone to temperature/environmental changes than plain air.
You know when one day it's hot outside and your tires look fine, then the next morning the driveway is cold and your tires look flatter?
The cold weather makes air-filled tires lose some pressure -- not so much with nitrogen filled tires.

Also... after a while the nitrogen does seep out slightly (pourus aluminum) you can still fill it up with regular air, the benefits of nitrogen are lessened, but oh well!

--zepcom
So what you are saying is that the pressure won't increase as much with heat? I run 45 PSI cold at the track (road course) and they heat up over 50psi. The reason I ask, is because with only 32psi those goodyears roll over on their sides and destroy the shoulder of the tread pattern. :undecided

[BigJohnAZ]

If you use air from a compressor, there is also water vapor in it which decreases the density of the air. Typically, N2 is dispensed from a high pressure cylinder, which has trace amounts, if any, of moisture in it. If you filled your tires with dry air from a high pressure cylinder, it would be very close to the same density. After all, air is ~79% N2 anyway. Another reason to use N2 is the O2 in the air tends to damage the rubber over time.

[juventus1983]

nitro doesnt expand with heat. air with water vapor in it does.

[Nomad]

nitro doesnt expand with heat. air with water vapor in it does.

Nitrogen does expand when heated. If it is constrained to restrict expansion, the pressure will increase. Just because it's nitrogen and not regular air doesn't mean it doesn't have to obey physics ;) I think you are really arguing that the pressure rises less with nitrogen than with air when they are both submitted to the same conditions in tires. That would give a more consistent pressure. I don't know if it's true or not...just trying to clarify your point. :m2:

[mcgyver7923]

Interesting stuff guys! I guess that is why they tell you to use the release valve on the bottom of your compressor to de-pressurize after every use. Some water usually sprays out of it with the air! The less water in the tank...the more dense your air will be :)

[Chippr7]

Nomad is right I am involved with oval track racing and we use nitrogen for our tires and yes they still will grow but not as drastic or as inconsistant as regular air from an air compressor heck the new idea out that people are using is argon. I have not experimented with that yet but I know price is more expensive than nitrogen, but it is suppose to grow even less under use.

[rudyarias]

Nomad is right I am involved with oval track racing and we use nitrogen for our tires and yes they still will grow but not as drastic or as inconsistant as regular air from an air compressor heck the new idea out that people are using is argon. I have not experimented with that yet but I know price is more expensive than nitrogen, but it is suppose to grow even less under use.

All gases expand at the same rate. What makes nitrogen ideal is its lack of moisture (humidity).

[mcgyver7923]

Makes sense!