Synthetic oil...

[Dacomputernerd]

The TB is due for an oil change next week, and we are going to go synthetic.

What is the best brand and weight for my TB with the 5.3L. Also how much will i need to buy for a full oil change.


Thanks,
Kelvyn Panici

[Envoy Fan]

The TB is due for an oil change next week, and we are going to go synthetic.

What is the best brand and weight for my TB with the 5.3L. Also how much will i need to buy for a full oil change.


Thanks,
Kelvyn Panici

Well, the TB SS that has been discussed on this forum in other threads comes from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic 5-30 oil. So do a lot of other GM high performance engines. My next change will be to Mobil 1 synthetic. Have used in several other vehicles with great results. Full oil change will be 6 quarts. Check local recommendations on weight due to your colder temps the next few months.

[Dacomputernerd]

Well, the TB SS that has been discussed on this forum in other threads comes from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic 5-30 oil. So do a lot of other GM high performance engines. My next change will be to Mobil 1 synthetic. Have used in several other vehicles with great results. Full oil change will be 6 quarts. Check local recommendations on weight due to your colder temps the next few months.

Thanks :D I was thinking that Mobil 1 would be best, since GM already uses it.

Does anyone have the temperature ranges for each weight of oil? (I'll do a google search, but just in case i cant find anything)

[ScarabEpic22]

Yea, I would recommend Mobil 1 (make sure you get the real M1, the 15k one, not the 10k or 7.5k as they arent full synthetic.) or Amsoil, but Mobil 1 is the only thing available most places. The only way I can get Amsoil around here is to order it from Portland, OR through the factory in WI. Portland is the closest distrubution center to me, so that is where it gets shipped from.

If you are doing it yourself, get a K&N oil filter. Much better than the AC Delco ones, but they cost abou $10-11 at most auto parts store. (BTW, thats USD, so they will probably be more expensive in Canada.)

Any questions, we will answer them all!:D


Temp ranges:
5W30- below 32 degrees F (0 deg. C)
10W30- above 32 degrees F.
Get 5W30, as it is probably getting close to freezing where you are.

[Dacomputernerd]

Yea, I would recommend Mobil 1 (make sure you get the real M1, the 15k one, not the 10k or 7.5k as they arent full synthetic.) or Amsoil, but Mobil 1 is the only thing available most places. The only way I can get Amsoil around here is to order it from Portland, OR through the factory in WI. Portland is the closest distrubution center to me, so that is where it gets shipped from.

If you are doing it yourself, get a K&N oil filter. Much better than the AC Delco ones, but they cost abou $10-11 at most auto parts store. (BTW, thats USD, so they will probably be more expensive in Canada.)

Any questions, we will answer them all!:D


Temp ranges:
5W30- below 32 degrees F (0 deg. C)
10W30- above 32 degrees F.
Get 5W30, as it is probably getting close to freezing where you are.

Ya its like -2C here now.
So 5w30 for the winter, and 10w30 for the summer?
And i need 6 quartz. of the 15k mobil 1


Im not doing the change myself, (getting the stealership to do it) or i would get one of those filters. (do you think the dealership would install the K&N oil filter? or can they only do AcDelco?


Thanks to everyone so far for your responses. :D

[homertime]

I think it's 7 quarts


I'm very impressed with Mobile1, this was the first time I ever used it and will only use it from now on...

They recommend change at 6000 miles too... I don't know if I'll be doing 3 or 6 though, any thoughts?

[Envoy Fan]

I think it's 7 quarts


7 for the 4.2L I-6, 6 for the 5.3L V8. The OEM AC Delco filter is a very good filter, hard for me to justify the higher K&N price.

[Dacomputernerd]

7 for the 4.2L I-6, 6 for the 5.3L V8. The OEM AC Delco filter is a very good filter, hard for me to justify the higher K&N price.

I think im gonna buy 7 and if there is extra return 1.
Im still gonna do the changes at the GM recomended change times

[SSLs1]

The TB is due for an oil change next week, and we are going to go synthetic.

What is the best brand and weight for my TB with the 5.3L. Also how much will i need to buy for a full oil change.


Thanks,
Kelvyn Panici

You can pick up Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic at crappy tire or Wallymart in 5 litre jugs. I use it all year around in my Camaro (i don't drive my camaro in the winter) and truck. Don't stop at the synthetic oil..........make sure you use a quality oil filter as well.

[Dacomputernerd]

You can pick up Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic at crappy tire or Wallymart in 5 litre jugs. I use it all year around in my Camaro (i don't drive my camaro in the winter) and truck. Don't stop at the synthetic oil..........make sure you use a quality oil filter as well.

Hey dont diss on canadian tire man, they rock :D How many quarts is 5 litres? Nevermind, google conversion says 5.2 quarts

so i'll pick up one big jug and then an additional 2 quarts in small bottles

[OurZoo]

All you will need is 6 Kelvyn...:m2:

[Dacomputernerd]

All you will need is 6 Kelvyn...:m2:

Ok, i'll go with 6 :D

[ScarabEpic22]

Yea, you will be great with the M1, but dont go to the trouble of running 2 oil weights, just use 5W30 year round. In the summer it might take a hair more time to warm up because of the slight thickness over 10W30, but it isnt enough to hassle with 10W30 IMO.

[Dave]

5/30 year round is great. 10 might be too think on some of those cold mornings. You can't go wrong with Mobil 1

[Dacomputernerd]

5/30 year round is great. 10 might be too think on some of those cold mornings. You can't go wrong with Mobil 1
ok, 5w30 year round :D


doesnt thinner oil give you more power anyways?

[JJ]

I normally run Quaker State 5W30 with Duralube additive so this week I had the oil changed to Mobile 1 5W30 as I took a little 450 mile round trip expecting to get a change from my normal 22 plus mpg. I did!!! first half of trip 21 mpg and return trip home only 19.7. No speed runs or jack rabbit starts. Also new air filter at oil change. Needless top say I am very disappointed after shelling out over $40 for oil. Next change it goes back to Quaker State and Duralube. I figured if Duralube is good enough for Nextel Cup cars it is good enough for me. I also normally get between 18 and 19.5 around town.

[tblazed]

I've used QS regular 10W-30 since the TB's first oil change in 2002, and have seen up to 23 mpg on the highway. Been the synth oil route several years ago, never noticed a significant difference and finally realized I don't put 200,000+ miles on a car, I don't tow heavy loads, I don't put vehicles under any hard strain, and came back to the current generation of conventional oil. As long as the oil meets API "SM" and "Energy Conserving"� and ILSAC GF-4 specs there will likely be little diffference in MPG between oils. My TB uses zero oil between twice yearly changes. I go with the 10W-30 variety because it has more base oil, never gets close to 0�F here (except once in 1983 got down to -1), has less viscosity modifier additive and more base oil than a 5W. To get the mutli-weight oil, They start with a base oil, 5W or 10W, and add Viscosity Index Improvers (VII, among a pack of other additives) to bring it up to flow like a 30W when at 212�. Interestingly, looking at used oil analysis reports, the TBN (Total Base Number) that measures a used oil's "base" or alkalinity (as opposed to acidity which you do not want) is very similar when comparing used QS conventional to used Mobil 1. Oils will start out with a relatively high TBN, and the TBN additive gets used up as it neutralizes the acids that form in the engine. Where synth's really excel is in extreme high temperature situations.

[Alfb]

I've used QS regular 10W-30 since the TB's first oil change in 2002, and have seen up to 23 mpg on the highway. Been the synth oil route several years ago, never noticed a significant difference and finally realized I don't put 200,000+ miles on a car, I don't tow heavy loads, I don't put vehicles under any hard strain, and came back to the current generation of conventional oil. As long as the oil meets API "SM" and "Energy Conserving"� and ILSAC GF-4 specs there will likely be little diffference in MPG between oils. My TB uses zero oil between twice yearly changes. I go with the 10W-30 variety because it has more base oil, never gets close to 0�F here (except once in 1983 got down to -1), has less viscosity modifier additive and more base oil than a 5W. To get the mutli-weight oil, They start with a base oil, 5W or 10W, and add Viscosity Index Improvers (VII, among a pack of other additives) to bring it up to flow like a 30W when at 212�. Interestingly, looking at used oil analysis reports, the TBN (Total Base Number) that measures a used oil's "base" or alkalinity (as opposed to acidity which you do not want) is very similar when comparing used QS conventional to used Mobil 1. Oils will start out with a relatively high TBN, and the TBN additive gets used up as it neutralizes the acids that form in the engine. Where synth's really excel is in extreme high temperature situations.

I personally think you have the right idea. I have been driving new and used vehicles for over 25 years and change my oil only every 5K miles. I have never had an oil related failure of any kind using various non-synth oils and have driven cars to nearly 200K miles. Synth oils are only beneficial in certain specific cases of which the vast majority of drivers do not fit.

[h0tr0d]

I normally run Quaker State 5W30 with Duralube additive so this week I had the oil changed to Mobile 1 5W30 as I took a little 450 mile round trip expecting to get a change from my normal 22 plus mpg. I did!!! first half of trip 21 mpg and return trip home only 19.7. No speed runs or jack rabbit starts. Also new air filter at oil change. Needless top say I am very disappointed after shelling out over $40 for oil. Next change it goes back to Quaker State and Duralube. I figured if Duralube is good enough for Nextel Cup cars it is good enough for me. I also normally get between 18 and 19.5 around town.

nextel cup cars only drive 500 miles on their oil changes and sometimes they dont make that. so dont base it on their oil choice. i do know that they use wix filters on all of their motors no matter who sponsors them (ex: FRAM, AC DELCO, etc.):m2:

[03slt_soccal]

i use the mobil extended life 15k synthetic and it is really smooth even at 80k miles. can't even tell it is running sometime :)

[tblazed]

nextel cup cars only drive 500 miles on their oil changes and sometimes they dont make that

They will run the thinnest oil, like water, and block off the radiator air inlets in front to heat up the engine and thin out the oil even more to push it to the limit and squeeze out any available HP during qualifying. Sometimes an engine will fail during qualifying! A completely different operating situation that we do not want to duplicate!

[firebird_1252]

here is my take on it. in a NA motor syntetic oil is a waste of money. if your running a turbo car or something extreem then yes go for it. i run nothing but mobil 1 10w30 in my gn. i'm running close up to 3k on the oil and it looks great! for a NA motor i run 10w 40. its the best all around oil. on long trips while driving your oil psi is still going to be up there. i'm a firm beleaver of castrol GTX. a buddy of mine had 210k miles on his monte SS running 10w 40 castrol he said the inside of the motor was spot less. JMO

[tblazed]

if your running a turbo car or something extreem then yes go for it

Yep. (Showing my age here) in the late '60s I had a '65 Corvair Corsa, my first car I bought (used, $450). It was turbocharged. That would have been a perfect application for synthetic oil. I had to rebuild the seized turbo twice in the two years I had it, main reason was because of the oil available in those days (Mobil 1 and synthetics in general didn't hit the market 'til '75 or so). Problem was, run the engine, then shut down, the oil remaining in the turbo bearings would get superheated and "coke" or literally turn the oil to thick burnt crud/ash deposits in the bearings causing failure. Nowadays you have synthetic oils, (they can still overheat and burn, but that temp is a lot higher with all oils available these days), water cooling jackets for turbos (the Corvair engine was air cooled), pressurized turbo oil reservoirs to keep oil moving through the bearings after shut down, better bearing and turbo technology. Modern technology marches on.

Personally I would not use a 40W anything in the I6. Tolerances are designed and built very close, there is no oil consumption in any I have read about, and a thinner 30W will get in-between parts and have less parasitic fluid friction drag, will flow easier and lubricate better. The higher oil pressure you see is the oil pump having to work harder to push the oil through the system with more force. The hydraulic cam phaser system in the I6 will respond slower with a thicker oil.

[firebird_1252]

if your running a turbo car or something extreem then yes go for it

Yep. (Showing my age here) in the late '60s I had a '65 Corvair Corsa, my first car I bought (used, $450). It was turbocharged. That would have been a perfect application for synthetic oil. I had to rebuild the seized turbo twice in the two years I had it, main reason was because of the oil available in those days (Mobil 1 and synthetics in general didn't hit the market 'til '75 or so). Problem was, run the engine, then shut down, the oil remaining in the turbo bearings would get superheated and "coke" or literally turn the oil to thick burnt crud/ash deposits in the bearings causing failure. Nowadays you have synthetic oils, (they can still overheat and burn, but that temp is a lot higher with all oils available these days), water cooling jackets for turbos (the Corvair engine was air cooled), pressurized turbo oil reservoirs to keep oil moving through the bearings after shut down, better bearing and turbo technology. Modern technology marches on.

Personally I would not use a 40W anything in the I6. Tolerances are designed and built very close, there is no oil consumption in any I have read about, and a thinner 30W will get in-between parts and have less parasitic fluid friction drag, will flow easier and lubricate better. The higher oil pressure you see is the oil pump having to work harder to push the oil through the system with more force. The hydraulic cam phaser system in the I6 will respond slower with a thicker oil.guess i should mention that i'm going to get a 5.3 TB. lol

[Dave]

Synthetic has excellent advantages even for NA motors. NA motors work pretty hard also. It costs more but I've used it for years in many different cars and never had a problem with an oil lubricated part.

I would never use anything other that 5W30 oil though since that is what GM requires.

[tblazed]

I would never use anything other that 5W30 oil though since that is what GM requires.

My 2002 TB owner's manual specifies 10W-30 is fine above 0°F. No problem about meeting the requirements.

[Dave]

My 2002 TB owner's manual specifies 10W-30 is fine above 0�F. No problem about meeting the requirements.

Come to think of it, I think it said the same thing in my 03 TB. They must have changed it before 06.

[Windy City]

Patman from LS1Tech is a great source for oil questions and there's also this site: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

I use Castrol synthetic German spec. IMO M1 is way over-rated. Just because the Corvette comes with it doesn't mean it's the best, it only means Mobil paid GM some coin to use their product. Sure M1 will be OK but so would dino oil if you never push your engine and change the oil very frequently. M1 is better than dino oil but I wouldn't put it up on a pedestal like so many people do.

And the thought that NA doesn't need synthetic, there have been many tests that prove switching to synthetic oil will increase engine performance. And taking into consideration the tighter clearances of today's engines, the higher redlines and increased HP output, I would only use sythetic.

[tblazed]

And the thought that NA doesn't need synthetic, there have been many tests that prove switching to synthetic oil will increase engine performance



I came to the exact opposite conclusion after studying the UOAs on "Bobistheoilguy" for the past two years: Conventional oils these days stand up just as well as synthetics in the vast majority of applications. Also most "tests" that are published showing performance gains are usually sponsored by the brand of oil that wins.

[prerogative]

Good info guys - here and in the many other posts. I've been lurking for a while, and only a few hours into reading forum posts. 02' Envoy I6 owner since mid-01; no major problems in the 4.5 years, thus no interest in forums until now - looking at TBSS.

Anyway, back to topic . . . sorry for bringing back old post, but I have a lot of catching up to do, and wich to contribute as best I can with the little knowledge I have regarding TrailVoys.

I too think synthetic is over rated, but still has its place in the market. I have and will continue to use regular 5-30w, for reasons below. I forget all the chemical details that led me to this, but the info about turbo chargers touches upon it (to the extreme).

Oil breakdown due to use favors synthetic, and oil breakdown due to start/stop (deposits and resulting chem reactions on top end; to lesser degree as turbo) is equal between the types. I do <10K mi. a year; mostly short miles (3mi/start) now that I work at home for the most part; change oil every 3K with noticable performance/sound difference when I do (similar to previous Z28).

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but the few times I've tried synth, I still needed a change at ~3K mi. IF I did longer miles (>50/start ?), I do feel synth would be of much more value. I'd be able to change oil less frequently, with more quality being retained through even the first 3K.

This does not mean I'd switch from what mfg suggests, like M1. I trust GM did their homework, and wouldn't look to challenge that to save a few bucks.

One other thing I didn't see mentioned in the few threads I read: run time. Along with mileage, this is a significant factor that GM takes into account to calculate oil change frequency (light on). I don't normally idle the vehicle for long periods, but we had a cold Winter ~2 years ago where my light came on at 2,300 mi. Come to find out, it was because I idled the vehicle for long periods that month. I don't know if it takes start/stops into consideration, but it's nice to know their Oil Life System works.

Just more opinions . . . feedback welcome . . . Regards

[Rob]

prerogative - The best thing you can do for your car is go on a nice long 20 mile loop once a week. Preferably at highway speeds. Those short trips never give the engine a chance to heat up and "cook off" the moisture, acids, etc. You'll also have to replace your exhaust system before everybody else. One of the products of combustion is water, and if your car never reaches operating temperature, all that water just sits in your oil or muffler.

[ScarabEpic22]

prerogative - The best thing you can do for your car is go on a nice long 20 mile loop once a week. Preferably at highway speeds. Those short trips never give the engine a chance to heat up and "cook off" the moisture, acids, etc. You'll also have to replace your exhaust system before everybody else. One of the products of combustion is water, and if your car never reaches operating temperature, all that water just sits in your oil or muffler.
I am doing a lot more short trips now around town, usually under ~10mi at a time. I try to get on the hwy once a week for 20-30min to burn off the crap that forms. But, my temp guage reads 210 every time I get in, it starts below 100 when cold but after probably 10min it is at operating temp.

[Rob]

I am doing a lot more short trips now around town, usually under ~10mi at a time. I try to get on the hwy once a week for 20-30min to burn off the crap that forms. But, my temp guage reads 210 every time I get in, it starts below 100 when cold but after probably 10min it is at operating temp.

The engine may be warmed up, but I think you still need some more time to drive off the volitiles in the oil. It also takes longer for the exhaust system to warm up enough for the water to be driven off.

[prerogative]

prerogative - The best thing you can do for your car is go on a nice long 20 mile loop once a week. Preferably at highway speeds. Those short trips never give the engine a chance to heat up and "cook off" the moisture, acids, etc. You'll also have to replace your exhaust system before everybody else. One of the products of combustion is water, and if your car never reaches operating temperature, all that water just sits in your oil or muffler.

Thanks, this is a good point. My wife will probably end up with the vehicle since she got the last two new ones. I'd expect to get a few more years out of it, and paying attention to stuff like this can't hurt.

The only reason I started looking at the TBSS is because she wants my Envoy. We haven't made any decisions yet. Anything to get the damn Ford Windstar out of the driveway/garage will make me happy, and a TBSS would be icing on the cake . . .

[ScarabEpic22]

The engine may be warmed up, but I think you still need some more time to drive off the volitiles in the oil. It also takes longer for the exhaust system to warm up enough for the water to be driven off.
Thanks, I will drive on the Hwy a few times a week to get rid of all the crap the builds up.

[Dacomputernerd]

Im now running Mobil 1 synthetic, just got the oil changed yesterday.

[Envoy Fan]

Im now running Mobil 1 synthetic, just got the oil changed yesterday.

You've got the oil, now do you have the official Mobil 1 oil filler cap:undecided

[dntnvme]

You've got the oil, now do you have the official Mobil 1 oil filler cap:undecided

Bill I got the oil, how do I obtain a cap? I would love to have one. Maybe on my next oil change I will ask for one. The mobil service station around the corner from house, is now sponsoring vehicles. I can't wait to talk to them.

[Envoy Fan]

Bill I got the oil, how do I obtain a cap? I would love to have one. Maybe on my next oil change I will ask for one. The mobil service station around the corner from house, is now sponsoring vehicles. I can't wait to talk to them.

Here's a pic. I'll try to find the GM p#

Found it 12555685 Should be around $8.00 +/-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/GM_Fan/2003%20Envoy%20SLT/Mobil1oilcap.jpg

[Greg]

Bill I got the oil, how do I obtain a cap? I would love to have one. Maybe on my next oil change I will ask for one. The mobil service station around the corner from house, is now sponsoring vehicles. I can't wait to talk to them.

If you have any AC Delco distributors in the area ask for part# RC73. Should be no more than $5 or $6 dollars.

http://198.208.187.182/servlet/com.entigo.acdelcocatalog.servlet.ProcessImageServ let?languagecd=EN&countrycd=US&user=InternetUser&mfgname=&prodlinecd=&acpartnbr=RC73

[Dacomputernerd]

thanks guys! I'll order one off of GM parts direct


Edit- They dont ship internationally :( I'll have to order one next time i'm at the stealership

[Dave]

There is also a Mobil 1 factory fill sticker like on the Vette available. I don't have the part number but I've seen them advertised on Ebay. I also know their is a silver GM Performance name plate available. Here is a couple from ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Perf-Div-Emblem-GTO-LS1-LS2-LS6-CTS-V-Z28-Z06-SS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33643QQitemZ80268660 78QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mobil-1-Emblem-Cap-GTO-LS1-LS2-LS6-CTS-V-Z28-Z06-SS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33643QQitemZ80268187 47QQrdZ1

[Envoy Fan]

thanks guys! I'll order one off of GM parts direct


Edit- They dont ship internationally :( I'll have to order one next time i'm at the stealership

Send member Greg an email. I think his parts dept ships internationally.

[blautens]

I like that Mobil One plate...I think I deserve a post Christmas present...

Dooohhh :duh: ...bought a new gas grill today.

Still...I''ve been pretty good....:undecided

[JJ]

Another $5 to $8 wasted!!!

[Dacomputernerd]

Send member Greg an email. I think his parts dept ships internationally.

email sent!

Thanks for the tip

[GraystoneLS]

I just did the first oil change on the TB yesterday and I used Mobil 1. 7 Qts ouch!, and the engineers that decided that was a good place to put an oil filter need to get their butts kicked! What a pain in the ass!

Other that that its been a good truck so far.

[RobBob]

I just did the first oil change on the TB yesterday and I used Mobil 1. 7 Qts ouch!, and the engineers that decided that was a good place to put an oil filter need to get their butts kicked! What a pain in the ass!

Other that that its been a good truck so far.
I changed the oil myself for the first time on New years day. I used Amsoil, a friend nearby is a dealer. I agree about the bad location for the filter. I thought I would never get it off there, and when I did, I made a big mess trying to navigate it out of there. :duh:

[ScarabEpic22]

I changed the oil myself for the first time on New years day. I used Amsoil, a friend nearby is a dealer. I agree about the bad location for the filter. I thought I would never get it off there, and when I did, I made a big mess trying to navigate it out of there. :duh:
Good man, another Amsoil customer!! I run Heavy Duty Diesel 5W30 because it is my tow vehicle and I abuse it a little.

As for filter location, give me a frickin break!

Im serious, anyone ever changed the filter on a Toyota/Lexus 1MZ-FE engine (I think thats it, 3.0L V6 used in ES300s and RX300s) where the fiter is at a 45degree angle under the exhaust manifold.
Looks as so:
_____
||||||||||||_____| <- manifold|||
engine ||||| // <- filter ||| <- radiator
||||||||||||// |||

Im not an expert on drawings, but it gives an idea.

[dntnvme]

No matter what brand you are running if it's full synthetic then it's all good:) . I use Mobil 1 myself but I hear good things about Amsoil:yes: . So far I am very happy with Mobil 1:yes: .

[ScarabEpic22]

No matter what brand you are running if it's full synthetic then it's all good:) . I use Mobil 1 myself but I hear good things about Amsoil:yes: . So far I am very happy with Mobil 1:yes: .
Both are good IMO!

[OurZoo]

Those two are the most recommended by others. I also use Mobil 1.

[dntnvme]

Since I started using Mobil 1 my voy starts up much quieter in the morning:yes: . When I had regular oil, you could hear the engine parts working around on the inside, which caused you to hear engine noise until the oil levels reached the parts. Then the engine would become quiet. With mobil 1 it's quiet from jump:yes: . I really noticed a difference myself.

[Turbo4200]

I have an 89 4 Runner with 304K miles tha has run synthetic since 240K miles. I doesn't burn oil & I had an oil analysis done at 295K; no significant metals or acids in the oil. Well worth the money IMHO.

[dach95]

just bought 6 AC Delco filter on ebay bulk costing much less...

Can someone please confirm if PF61 is the right one to use on our TV's?

I plan to change oil myself using M1. Hopefully I can report performance gains. We'll see...:p

[ylab]

The original filter used on the 4.2L was the PF58, which was replaced by the PF59. The PF59 has now been discontinued and replaced by the PF61, which has an improved bypass & anti-drainback valve. While our engines don't really need the anti-drainback valve, many of the engines this filter also fits do. - I believe they're now using the PF61 for the 5.3L V8 engine as well.

In short, YES, that is the correct filter for our trucks.

[tblazed]

Actually.. the PF58 was the original filter, there were some 4.2s shipped out with PF59s from the factory but a service bulletin in 2001 said the correct filter was the PF58 which has no anti-drainback valve. The replacement PF61 has no anti-drainback valve either. My guess is, they want the oil above the filter to drain back into the filter and not to sit up in the hot oil passages that feed oil to the cam phaser. Don't know why else GM would specify a filter with no anti-drainback valve.

I got way too curious about the differences one day...

http://users3.ev1.net/~epadget/pf58-61-1.jpg

http://users3.ev1.net/~epadget/pf58-61-2.jpg

[zamar]

Nothing wrong with a little curiosity. Looks like the 61 would flow better :m2: .

So which do you use now Tblazed?

[tblazed]

So which do you use now Tblazed?

After evaluating the dissected filters, I bought a case of 24 PF58s for $2 ea when they began to disappear from store shelves. I will be using PF58s for quite a while!

[dach95]

Funny thing happened... I broke the cheap adjusted wrench trying to unscrew the oil plug and ended up having my local station draining and installing the PF61 for $15 bucks. Glad I did that later because I totally forgot the my registration expired. Here in the city, cops wonder around nothing better to do than look around for oportunity to strike gold. Like everyone else, my engine runs much quieter. So quite that I gave up a little of my heavy foot to enjoy it...(just a little.):)

[Dacomputernerd]

Well, after having Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 in the TB for just over a month, i can tell you that it is a worth while upgrade. Not only does the truck start much quieter in the morning, it starts easer in cold weather (-10C) and the best part is much better fuel economy. My rough estimate without taking actual readings/calculations is a 5% to as much as 10% increase in fuel economy. :D The performance seems the same as dino oil, but i am hoping for a little more performence with a drop in K&N (STILL hasnt been shipped from a deadbeat ebay seller:mad: ) and a hollowed out airbox (When i get my K&N)

[Rob]

I agree with the imprvoved and quieter starting on synthetic. Synthetics flow better at lower temps. I doubt there is any measurable increase in fuel mileage.

[Dacomputernerd]

I doubt there is any measurable increase in fuel mileage.

I beg to differ... In my normal driving routine i have to fill up once per week, but with synthetic i can almost squeeze out an extra one and a half days without filling up... That is my unscientific way of seeing increased fuel economy.