02 Trailblazer no start, no pdl, no pw, no shift indicator....

[thriller]

I have had about enough of the trailblazer!!:mad: First I wasted my vacation working on the A/C and now I go to start the TB and had almost nothing. the gauges lit up but did not move, the fuel pump kicks in, but when you go to start it does nothing. The first thing I saw was that the shift indicator did not have a line under what gear it was in, then when I tried the pw and the locks they did not work. I do hear a little click under the rear passenger side seat when I turn the key to start. I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the drivers side rear seat with a multi meter and all seem fine. :( What now? :mad:

[Super 88]

I'm not 100 percent sure, but sounds like the ignition switch to me. This is a very common problem on these vehicles and often causes no start/crank problems.

[RayVoy]

^^^^ :iagree:

[thriller]

I'm not 100 percent sure, but sounds like the ignition switch to me. This is a very common problem on these vehicles and often causes no start/crank problems.

I thought that might be it but would that cause the keyless entry and the windows not to work? :weird:

[PROSPHOTO]

How's your battery?

[thriller]

I get 12.87 volts with my multi-meter. I disconnected the battey for a few minutes and notice now that it says "unknown driver" when I stick the key in. I am not sure if it did that before disconnecting (and reconnecting) the battery.

I put it on the charger overnight as well. My stereo just flashes the security light and will not turn on, the fan and controls do work in the front but will not work in the rear. The electronic controls in the rear will not even come on.:worried: Thanks in advance!!

[thriller]

forgot to say as well that I tried to put my obd2 code reader on this and it would not connect as well. :weird::thx

[PROSPHOTO]

There are a few things to check out first...

A stripped battery terminal is a common problem, just as the ignition is common.

As for the unknown driver message, you'll need a Tech 2 to access the BCM & IPC for diagnosis (if the battery or ignition concern is not the issue)

[thriller]

is there any way to test the ignition switch?:worried:

[KNBlazer]

is there any way to test the ignition switch?:worried:

can you remote start your car? meaning direct current to the starter.. I don't know if you can do that on these trucks.. .but on my firebird I had a problem where the starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter would heat up because of the headers causing the car to not turn over so one day I ended up having to remote start it at the starter with a jumper cable... well since then I am using an old style solenoid that I mount next to the coolant reservoir and have had no problems since...

[KNBlazer]

I just read the original post and was going to suggest disconnecting your battery for 30 minutes... I have read here a few people have had a similar problem and that seemed to thave fixed their problem...

[thriller]

Yep I tried the battery disconect, I also talked to my local dealer and was told that the ignition switch should be it. Changed it out and have the exact same problem now. I also have a problem with the switch itself. When I put the park lock switch in the key will turn over to run and all the way to start but will not turn all the way back out and then the key is stuck in unless I remove the park lock switch:worried:

[KNBlazer]

Yep I tried the battery disconect, I also talked to my local dealer and was told that the ignition switch should be it. Changed it out and have the exact same problem now. I also have a problem with the switch itself. When I put the park lock switch in the key will turn over to run and all the way to start but will not turn all the way back out and then the key is stuck in unless I remove the park lock switch:worried:

Did you align the switch and the cylinder? I read they have to go in at a certain tooth angle... someone should be able to shed some light on this as I am not familiar with this area...

[envoykid]

There are a few things to check out first...

A stripped battery terminal is a common problem, just as the ignition is common.

As for the unknown driver message, you'll need a Tech 2 to access the BCM & IPC for diagnosis (if the battery or ignition concern is not the issue)

A stripped battery terminal was my problem, it felt tight, I took mine to the dealer and they found the stripped terminal, I changed it out and everything has been fine since.

[thriller]

A stripped battery terminal was my problem, it felt tight, I took mine to the dealer and they found the stripped terminal, I changed it out and everything has been fine since.


Thanks but battery terminals are good.

[PROSPHOTO]

Yep I tried the battery disconect, I also talked to my local dealer and was told that the ignition switch should be it. Changed it out and have the exact same problem now. I also have a problem with the switch itself. When I put the park lock switch in the key will turn over to run and all the way to start but will not turn all the way back out and then the key is stuck in unless I remove the park lock switch:worried:

You gotta help us out here & fill out all of your vehicle information under your profile (location would be nice too) :thx

Anyway, if you paid the dealer for the diagnosis and repair, you should not be paying anything else :nono: The dealer should be correcting the problem as they should have the first time :yes:

[thriller]

I never paid the dealer, The closest one is 1/2 hr away from me. I just called them and told them what it was doing and they told me it would be the switch. Also the switch I got had been opened by someone and taped up before I got it. I did some tests on the old switch. It has 7 wires going in or out of it. They are --

Yellow= + power to go to starter when key is turned to start
White= + power when in the acc and run position
Red= + power coming into the switch
Orange= + power when in the run position
Brown= ???
Red/White= ???
Pink= ???
I just checked the continuity between the red wire and moved the switch to the different places to figure out where power would go. Please correct me if you know that I am wrong or if you know what the other wires go to. THANKS:duh:

Also what is the electronic park lock switch for?

[thriller]

here is an update of things that work and things that don't-

DON'T WORK LIST
radio (security light is on but radio won't turn on)
power windows
power locks
starter
gauges
rear heat and a/c
rear radio control
rear wiper and washer
shift display indicator (gears come up but the line under them does not)

WORK LIST
int lights when rear doors open but not when front doors open, when you take key out all the int lights go on as they should
12V power - cig plug
lights on dash
front heat and a/c
voice recorder
garage door opener
rear defrost
horn
headlights, foglights
front wipers and washer
power seat
signal lights
hazard lights
vanity light


I have checked every fuse and relay in both the front and back fuse boxes except the 2 solid state relays in the front. I have also checked everthing in the electrical pictures of my hanes manual that was to be powered on all the time and those things that had to be powered on only when the key was on. All checked out ok in the fuse boxes.

I also looked at my old ignition switch and noticed there there should be current flow between the brown and the red/white when the switch was in the acc position and that there should be flow between brown, red/white and pink when in the run position. I don't know much about it as all that is in the hanes book about the ignition is that the red wire is 12V+ and the yellow should be 12V+ when in the start position. :duh:

[PROSPHOTO]

I would remove your new switch & double check the installation; where did you get the ignition from?

[thriller]

I would remove your new switch & double check the installation; where did you get the ignition from?
I got the ignition from the dealer that is closed today due to a stat here in Canada. I do have the ignition switch aligned properly. I had to move it one tooth to get it lined up right the so the start part would work great. :crazy:

[dshields]

This is my last GM product ever. I have had over 10 of them, but never, ever again. I had a similar issue last week with my 03 Envoy with some of the same symptoms. I had to replace the Body Control Module on mine. The first diagnosis and bill was for a new ignition switch. That worked for a whole week before I had a dead vehicle in the driveway with the windows down and no way to start it or roll the windows up. I did have radio however in mine. I find it funny that the UAW is currently in contract talks with the big three and those two groups together give us vehicles like this. It won't be long before Ford, GM, and Chrysler all three go the way of Studebaker.

[thriller]

does anyone know the proper way to align the ignition switch? I think I have it perfect but wanted to double check. I am wondering also if there is anything to do with the security system that has to be done after the ignition switch has been changed. :weird:

I also went jumpered the starter solenoid and the thing fired up for about 3 seconds and then when I tried again it would turn over but not fire. It will still not work with the key. Would that have anything to do with the passlock system?

[PROSPHOTO]

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2551000-2551999/2551515_121_full.jpg

Important: The gears between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing must be in the correct position. Failure to do so will cause a misalignment of the gears in the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing, which may result in a NO START or BATTERY DRAIN.
1. Verify the alignment of the gear (1) in the ignition switch (2). If gear (1) not in position shown, turn gear in ignition switch (2) until you reach the correct position.
2. Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear counterclockwise until it hits a stop.
3. Connect the connector to the ignition switch.
4. Insert the ignition switch into the lock cylinder housing. The tabs (2) on the ignition switch MUST be seated inside the lock cylinder housing (1) for proper installation.
5. Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to the START position - allowing it to spring return into the RUN position.
6. Align the lock cylinder and install the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing.
7. Connect the passlock and key buzzer into the lock housing.

[thriller]

Thanks for your help...but on step # 5, do I put the screwdriver in where the switch barrel would go?

Bill

[PROSPHOTO]

Yes, the housing is the hole in the column that you stick the lock cylinder into :yes:

[tehehodi]

whats the part number for the ignition switch? how much are they usually at the dealer?:hissy:

[thriller]

whats the part number for the ignition switch? how much are they usually at the dealer?:hissy: I think I paid $45 with the tax for mine.

[tehehodi]

was it hard to replace? cause it looks like a pain.

[thriller]

Update --- It was not the ignition switch!

I don't know what it was but I thought I better do some more looking as the local dealer could not book it for 2 weeks. I wanted to check all the circuits I could, I had the key on and the lights on. I wanted to check the licence plate lights and so instead of bending down I lifted the tailgate AND I HEARD THE RADIO!!!!! :woot:I have not heard that since this started. I do not have a clue what is was but everything now works????:weird: I would still love to know what the problem was as I don't want to be standed. :thx

[thriller]

was it hard to replace? cause it looks like a pain.
No it is an easy job. I ended up putting the old switch back in. Once the battery is disconnected and the cover is off the steering column you are looking at about a 5 minute job after you have done it once. :)

[02SOMWS6]

I just had a simular thing happen to me. I was driving a long and heard 3 beeps like when you put the key in, then every light on my dash lit up and lost all gauges but the speedo and tach and had no pw windows, no pw doorlocks ,ac compressure wont kick on put the light for the ac is lit , no radio, no gear indicator light, no 4wd indicator light no reverse lights and my remote door lock dosent work. I got home and clicked the key back and forth a bunch of times to see if that would clear it out and it did. The next day it did the same thing.So I figure if I unhook the bat. and leave it for a while maybe that will clear it out. As soon as the terminal was just about all the way loose it started to beep the horn just as I unhooked the batt. When I go to hook it back up it starts beeping again, my remote doesnt work so I put the key in the ignition to stop it from beeping. Now you turn the key and nothing happens.It seems like the security system has everything locked up now cause the fuel pump will cycle but it wont turn over and I can't get a signal with a scanner to check it out. WTFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF
I'm glad I got the extended warrenty cause this is just crazy. I'm just about payed off now this. I'm using my buddies flatbed to bring it to the dealer to let them figure it out

[02SOMWS6]

just after I finished my last post I figured I would try and open my hatch to see if that had anything to do with it. As soon as the hatch was all the way up my radio lit up and my 4wd indicator light cam on and I walked over with the hatch still up and turned the key and it started up. Then I walk over and close the hatch and I loose all my gauges and everylight on the dash comes on again. So now I'm playing with the hatch. With the hatch open all the way it will start and not trip all the dash lights, with the hatch closed is when all the problems start. So it's something in the wiring going to the hatch.

[thriller]

just after I finished my last post I figured I would try and open my hatch to see if that had anything to do with it. As soon as the hatch was all the way up my radio lit up and my 4wd indicator light cam on and I walked over with the hatch still up and turned the key and it started up. Then I walk over and close the hatch and I loose all my gauges and everylight on the dash comes on again. So now I'm playing with the hatch. With the hatch open all the way it will start and not trip all the dash lights, with the hatch closed is when all the problems start. So it's something in the wiring going to the hatch.
that sounds exactly like mine. I actually had all the doors locked but the drivers door when mine did this. I crawled over the seats and gave the the top inside plastic cover a couple of taps with my open hand and everything was then working again. I then opened the hatch and pulled the cover off. I pulled the little rubber piece off that goes from the hatch to the vehicle and pulled out the wiring harness out as much as possible. There was a plug in there that I unplugged and then plugged back in. I have put about 500 km's since I did this and everything is still working great. :weird:Keep me updated as to what you find on yours.

[02SOMWS6]

that sounds exactly like mine. I actually had all the doors locked but the drivers door when mine did this. I crawled over the seats and gave the the top inside plastic cover a couple of taps with my open hand and everything was then working again. I then opened the hatch and pulled the cover off. I pulled the little rubber piece off that goes from the hatch to the vehicle and pulled out the wiring harness out as much as possible. There was a plug in there that I unplugged and then plugged back in. I have put about 500 km's since I did this and everything is still working great. :weird:Keep me updated as to what you find on yours.

I pulled that rubber plug off and mine was plugged in buta couple of the wires were cut as if it got caught in the hatch or something. I'm going to repair the wires now.

[02SOMWS6]

I fixed the wires and all is good now. I have no idea why the wires broke there.They were cut like they were shut in the hatch or something

[02SOMWS6]

all is still good but this could happen to any other suv out there .