Top LiftGate Problem [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: Top LiftGate Problem


scottcny
12-05-2005, 01:39 PM
I just noticed today that the top piece of my LiftGate (the plastic piece) has skewed off by 1 to 2 inches... When I open either the Glass Lift or the entire LiftGate is rubs and creaks onto the back roof of my Trailblazer.
At first I thought it was the very cold weather we are having with the Ice and Snow.. But later this afternoon I looked at it closer and it is off by a couple of inches. I never had any problem like this last winter....

I wonder if I could have done this myself last night with Snow and Ice on the roof..??? I had to open the liftgate to get to my IceScrapper to clean off the truck.
My TB is a 2004 EXT and just turned over 36k miles.....

I checked thru the threads and it looked like a few people had problems with it sliding down. And possible problems might be the double-stick tape??? I did notice on mine that there are about 4 screws holding this on..I might attempt to take them off and try to reseat this...

Questions, Has anyone tried this before..?? and also has anyone heard any Service Recalls, bulletins on this...???
Thanks

Envoy Fan
12-05-2005, 02:35 PM
I've not had any problems with mine, but have had it off to get color matched. It is held on by double sided tape and screws. I have also heard of some liftgate glass shattering, but don't know if related to your situation. If out of warranty I would remove the plastic piece, clean off all the tape residue and glass and apply some new double sided tape. I think you can buy the tape at an AutoZone.

Envoy Fan
12-05-2005, 03:38 PM
Hey Bill, do you mind me asking how much you paid to have yours color matched? I got a quote of $160 to my corners pillars, top piece with the third brake light and my mirrors done. This includes materials and painting and the prep work. I will be removing all items myself for the body shop and smoothing the mirrors. I will be sanding everything with a final grit of 400 and and they are going to do the final prep. Sorry for highjacking this thread.

That sounds like a good price to get all 5 pieces done.:yes: My cost was about the same, but I didn't do it all at once. Make sure the shop can actually color match your items. I went to 4 different shops before I could find one that could correctly match Summit White :duh: If it is a GM body shop should be no problem, independents could stumble on this:worried:

If you remove the third brake light molding, you need to carefully slide something that will not scratch the back glass to remove the molding from the glass. Remove the screws first.

I'm thinking maybe snow and or ice got between the molding and rest of the truck on scottcny's issue. Lift gate shut once or twice with this ice buildup and loosened the molding.

scottcny
12-07-2005, 10:45 AM
Thanks for the responses...I tried re-seating it twice but still no good...I'm going to have the Dealer look at it...

Bonnie
12-07-2005, 05:18 PM
I had the same problem with mine the year I bought it. We had a particularly nasty ice storm followed by about 4 inches of snow. My youngest daughter forced the hatch open instead of lifting just the glass and warped the top molding. Fortunately, we were still under warranty and the dealer we purchased from was extremely friendly.

eaterb
02-12-2006, 01:39 PM
Any know where a good online part store would be to order replacement bolts? My liftgate glass is missing 1 screw/bolt on the hinge. I have a few other items (air filter, etc) and wondered if I could get them at the same place.

Thanks,

Brett

thriller
11-24-2007, 11:37 AM
I as well had a problem with the liftgate top plastic piece. It is sitting a bit higher then it should. This makes the plastic piece catch on the roof and thus the door will not open all the way. It is a bit alkward but if I stand on the rear bumper I can push the plastic down enough so that it will clear enough to open. I see that there is two small clips that clip on around the hinges and they are out. I do not see how to remove this and then get it back in place so any help would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you very much in advance.

Rope
11-24-2007, 04:41 PM
I had the same problem on my 03 EXT. Unfortunately one of the screws holding it on broke when opening so I had to remove the whole piece and re-seat it. wasn't too hard but I have to say that it doesn't quite sit as close as I would like.

Viper12873
11-24-2007, 07:30 PM
Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when dealing with this issue. It's happened 3 times on my 2003 Envoy XL... all during the original factory warranty period, and repairs included replacement of the trim piece, replacement of the brackets, body work and paint to damaged roof area, new rear glass, ect...

To the best of my knowledge, as ice and snow builds up in the door hinge, it prevents the trim from going into the roof as it's supposed to. As the door opens farther, the weak brackets that hold the trim on are what gives way, and as they bend, the trim distorts, and it's possible to crack the rear glass where the hinges attach with enough pressure. As more ice and snow collects, the problem gets worse, and eventually you start damaging paint and metal, as well as the rear glass.

All this damage doesn't happen over a month of using a damaged door... you can incur serious damage the first time it happens... thus the reason it's happened 3 times to me. (i'm not just dense... :laugh:)

In the end, GM redesigned the brackets, making them stronger so ice/snow buildup will not cause them to bend. Since the new brackets were installed, I haven't had any issues with the rear door. If you're still under warranty take it to the dealership and have them install the new brackets... if you're not under factory warranty, but still under an extended one, this may still be covered. I haven't checked, but this may be included in some of the service bulletins for these vehicles.

Hopefully this helps... best of luck!

Menthol
11-24-2007, 07:38 PM
I as well had a problem with the liftgate top plastic piece. It is sitting a bit higher then it should. This makes the plastic piece catch on the roof and thus the door will not open all the way. It is a bit alkward but if I stand on the rear bumper I can push the plastic down enough so that it will clear enough to open. I see that there is two small clips that clip on around the hinges and they are out. I do not see how to remove this and then get it back in place so any help would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you very much in advance.

After ice/snow storm on Wednesday, I open the liftgate and it got stuck halfway. Today I saw those two clips had popped out, what I did was stand on the rear bumper and pull towards you (the back of the vehicle) then push down. Take a good look at the clip, you'll see it has a curve to it, that why you have to pull it behind the bar it has to clip onto first before snapping in. After I got it in the gate worked properly after but the plasctic still had a slight curve, I think it'll get better when the sun heats it back into position.
Goodluck.

Menthol
11-30-2007, 07:10 PM
This darn thing popped out again, mainly because the top has left with a curve. The good thing is the plastic clips are not broken but I have to add some two-sided 3M tape somewhere in the middle to keep the curve down. So popping back the plastic clips is not a sure fire fix, I'm hoping adding the tape will work, any other suggestions ?

The Black Pearl
12-07-2007, 09:07 PM
Same thing happened to me this week. Is there a TSB on this issue? Does anyone know the part numbers for the new clips?

Thanks

07TB
12-08-2007, 01:23 AM
This darn thing popped out again, mainly because the top has left with a curve. The good thing is the plastic clips are not broken but I have to add some two-sided 3M tape somewhere in the middle to keep the curve down. So popping back the plastic clips is not a sure fire fix, I'm hoping adding the tape will work, any other suggestions ?

Do any of these help?


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Subject: CHMSL Applique Contacts Roof When Opening Rear Gate, Glass - kw bind break brake broken center endgate GMT370 hatch hinge molding liftgate light rear trim #PI00949C - (04/22/2004)


Some owners of 2002 to 2004 TrailBlazer EXT and Envoy XL models may comment that the liftgate or liftgate glass binds when opening or does not open completely because the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) appliqué hits the roof of the vehicle. The appliqué may be loose or broken off one or more of its mounting points. This condition will require replacement of the CHMSL applique. During replacement of the appliqué, assure proper alignment of the mounting brackets. This can be accomplished by comparing them to the brackets on a known good vehicle. It should not be necessary to replace the liftgate glass. Once installed, the top surface of the appliqué should line up approximately 1mm below the top surface of the roof. Although the root cause of this concern has not been determined at this time, an engineering study is being conducted. Further information will be provided when it is available.

.

Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms.

Models:
(2002 - 2004 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER EXT (GMT 370 ONLY)) and (2002 - 2004 GMC ENVOY XL (GMT 370 ONLY)

.




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Subject: Liftgate or Liftgate Glass Binds, Does Not Open Completely, CHMSL Hits Roof (Remove Material from CHMSL Applique) #04-08-66-017 - (11/09/2004)



Models: 2002-2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT

2002-2005 GMC Envoy XL



Condition
Some customers may comment that the liftgate or liftgate glass binds when opening or does not open all the way.

Cause
This condition is caused by the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) applique hitting the roof of the vehicle.

Correction
Verify that the CHMSL applique is not loose or broken off one or more of its mounting points. If the applique is broken, it will be necessary to order a replacement part.

Important:

• It should not be necessary to replace the liftgate glass.

• All measurements and alterations should take place prior to paint finish.

• It is necessary to install any replacement parts in order to measure to determine if further modification is required.


To achieve the proper clearance, modification to the applique is required using the following procedure:

Measure (with applique installed) the area of interference in order to determine the material to be removed.
• The top surface (height) of the applique should line up approximately 1 mm (0.039 in) below the top surface of the roof.

• A gap of 6-8 mm (0.236-0.315 in) should exist between the roof and the applique to allow for adequate clearance while opening the liftgate.


Mask off the desired amount of material to be removed.
Open the liftgate glass.
Notice: Do no damage the applique or the lifgate glass when removing the applique from the liftgate glass.

Remove the screws that retain the applique to the liftgate glass.
With a flat-bladed tool, carefully remove the applique from the liftgate glass.
Remove the CHMSL harness grommet from the roof panel.
Disconnect the CHMSL harness connector and remove CHMSL applique from the vehicle.
Using a 1/4" die grinder and Scotch-Brite® Disc, 3M® P/N 07481, remove excess material from the applique.


Paint the applique to match.
Important: If the original part is used, it is important to seal (clear coat) the edge to protect the clear coat from lifting.

Remove the old adhesive from the underside of the applique.
Clean the application area of the CHMSL applique with Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), 3M® P/N 08984, or equivalent, and dry thoroughly using a clean low lint towel or towelette.
Apply double-sided adhesive tape, 3M® P/N 06397, or equivalent, to the underside of the CHMSL applique.
Remove the old adhesive from the liftgate glass.
Important:

• The installation area of the liftgate glass must be clean and dry. Any airborne dust, oils, etc., may contaminate the glass or the applique adhesive, and reduce the bond of the tape.

• DO NOT use commercial glass or surface cleaners. These may contain petroleum.

• The glass surface temperature should be no lower than 21°C (70°F) and not exceed 38°C (100°F).


Clean the application area of the liftgate glass with Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), 3M® P/N 08984, or equivalent, and dry thoroughly using a clean low lint towel or towelette.
Apply adhesive promoter, P/N 12378555, in Canada, use P/N 88901239, to the liftgate glass surface, completely wetting the applique application area.
Important:

• Use a clean low lint towel or towelette and wipe the glass, only removing the excess adhesive promoter from the lift gate glass.

• Do not wipe the glass dry.

• Allow the liftgate glass to air dry completely.

• The applique must be installed within 30 minutes following the use of the promoter.


Allow the adhesive promoter to remain on the glass surface for a minimum of 10 seconds.
Attach the CHMSL wire to the connector and install the grommet.
Slide the liftgate glass on the hinge pins to the left in order to allow clearance for the locating hooks.
Remove the protective liner from the tape on the applique.
Attach the locating hooks on the applique to the hinge pins.
Apply the applique to the liftgate glass.
With the heel of your hand, and starting from center of the applique and working outward towards each outer edge, apply even and consistent pressure ensuring complete contact of the adhesive strip to the glass.
Install the screws that retain the applique to the liftgate glass.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 5 N·m (44 lb in).

Important: The vehicle must be kept dry and at 21°C (70°F) to 43°C (110°F) for no less than 4 hours to ensure proper adhesive cure time.

Clean the liftgate glass and applique area.





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Subject: Rear Liftgate Binds, Improper Fit, Broken Liftgate Glass (Install Welds and Bumpers) #06-08-66-011A - (11/08/2006)



Models: 2002-2006 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT

2002-2006 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL

This bulletin is being revised to add part number information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-66-011 (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).



Condition
Some customers may comment that the liftgate or the liftgate glass doesn't fit properly. In some extreme cases, the rear liftgate glass may have broken.

Cause
A couple of welds may have broken around the upper liftgate hinge(s) or a crack may have formed around the inner two welds. Remove the liftgate and inspect the inner to outer panel welds at the upper hinges.

Correction
Remove the liftgate trim and electrical wiring from the liftgate.
Remove the liftgate and liftgate glass from the vehicle.
Straighten the sheet metal at the hinges.



Drill four 5/16" holes through the inner panel at the four locations shown in the illustration above.
Prepare the sheet metal around the four holes for welding.
Clamp the inner and out panel together.
Important: Do not use oxyacetylene welding equipment. MIG WELD ONLY .

Weld the crack/four holes that were drilled through the inner panel using the appropriate welding technique.
Important: Prior to refinishing, refer to the GM4901M-D-2006 (English) or GM4901M-D-F2006 (French) GM Approved Refinish Materials booklet for recommended products. The GM Refinish Materials information is now on the GMGOODWRENCH WEB SITE ONLY. Printed books have been discontinued. Steps to the site are as follows:

Go to www.gmgoodwrench.com.
Click on GM Parts and Accessories link.
Click on GM Technical Repair Information.
Click on Paint Shop.

Clean and prepare all of the welding surfaces.
Return the surface to its original contour.
Spot paint and clear the area around the hinges.
Reinstall the liftgate.
Replace the upper two bumpers and inspect the lower two bumpers. Replace as necessary.

Menthol
12-08-2007, 11:52 AM
Thanks 07TB, the only thing the weather here is -10 C. I'll have to get some double sided tape in the middle for a quick fix and re-do completely (as per your post) summer time.

Thanks

Viper12873
12-10-2007, 01:43 AM
Thanks 07TB, the only thing the weather here is -10 C. I'll have to get some double sided tape in the middle for a quick fix and re-do completely (as per your post) summer time.

Thanks

Because it's a service bulletin... this may be a free of charge repair at your dealer. I would print out a copy of the service bulletin and talk to the service manager at your local dealer to see if they will work with you on it. It never hurts to ask, and you may get yourself a free repair out of the deal!

The Black Pearl
12-16-2007, 09:33 PM
Not a free repair for me. I managed to split the cost 50/50 with the dealership. The oplique is $566.00 alone. My cost with paint and installed is $350.00 what a pos.....

stopher2
01-07-2008, 11:55 PM
my applique pulled off too. 2003 TB and i am disappointed in how cheap the applique is designed.
it is taped onto the glass, has 2 "flying bolts" attaching each to a clip connecting to the glass.
it has 2 more bolts screwed to a bar that goes across the applique and is taped to that, along with the sunken nuts into weak plastic buttresses...which broke off.

time for epoxy and/or gorilla glue along with 2 sided body tape, and a sunny day to warm up the glass (it needs to be 70F to adhere properly)

PLAUSIBLE ROOT CAUSES
--a poplar tree dropped lots of sap on the car which grabbed the rubber applique sweep and, when the hatch opened, bent the clips; initiating the problem. (the tree is now cut down !)
--opening the gate and window concurrenlty may have given it a bad open angle causing extra stress.
--a boat or two may have dislodged it and aided in the wrenching the hatch caused with the poplar sap.
GM made a garbage design to get it out the door.

all of these are probably true. i'll let you know how i fare with the refabrication. otherwise I'll be looking for a pulled part.

keitho64
03-03-2008, 06:17 PM
Ah, the pleaseures of the search function. :thumbsup:


I am experiencing the same problem with my 04 TB EXT. Since the most recent snow fall I cannot open the rear hatch. The top plastic part is binding against the roof and does not allow the rear hatch to open. It binds with just the glass as well and the hatch.

Based upon this thread I need to remove the cap by the rear mounted stop light. I will take a bunch of pictures and post when complete. I printed this thread to use the directions.

Thanks

Keith

keitho64
03-20-2008, 05:34 PM
I finally took the time to check out the lift gate problem. I 'carefully' opened the rear window by holding down on the plastic top of the lift gate to get it open all the way. When that was done I found 4 torx screws that hold the cover on and it also seems to be glued to the glass. I was looking at the top hinge and I could easily see that the plastic tabs on the lift gate cover popped out of the hinge. After removing the 4 screws I was able to snap the plastic tab back on the hinge. After reinstalling the 4 screws it all worked great. I never took the plastic cover off; I just merely 'wiggled' it back onto the hinge. I did this in the evening so it was to dark to take pictures. If anyone wants me to take pictures just say so and I can post them. Hope this helps someone out, it is a simple fix.

Keith

Menthol
04-07-2008, 06:28 PM
Pics please, how were you able to get to those screws, when the head sits under the plastic cover. I pop the 2 clips off, cut away the tape from the glass but have no idea how to get to those screws. I can see two on the outer end and I presume two more in the middle.



I finally took the time to check out the lift gate problem. I 'carefully' opened the rear window by holding down on the plastic top of the lift gate to get it open all the way. When that was done I found 4 torx screws that hold the cover on and it also seems to be glued to the glass. I was looking at the top hinge and I could easily see that the plastic tabs on the lift gate cover popped out of the hinge. After removing the 4 screws I was able to snap the plastic tab back on the hinge. After reinstalling the 4 screws it all worked great. I never took the plastic cover off; I just merely 'wiggled' it back onto the hinge. I did this in the evening so it was to dark to take pictures. If anyone wants me to take pictures just say so and I can post them. Hope this helps someone out, it is a simple fix.

Keith

Menthol
04-08-2008, 08:39 AM
If I take the two outer screws, will the other two come out along with the plastic piece or do I have to unscrew those two to get the plastic part out??

Menthol
04-08-2008, 05:31 PM
Nevermind, I was trying to get to it from the liftGATE, it's in plain sight by raising the ligtGLASS.

P.S for some reason I cannot edit my previous post.

keitho64
04-22-2008, 11:45 PM
Sorry for the delayed response with pictures. I used a long 1/4" drive extension with the torx socket. This gave me enough clearence to remove the 4 bolts. Here are the pictures of the bolts I removed to snap the liftgate cover back onto the hinge.

keitho64
04-22-2008, 11:55 PM
Here are the pictures of the two outer brackets.

blazinlow89
04-23-2008, 08:00 PM
Mine actually seperated, it was barely holding on and made a horrible noise when driving. Well i puller it completely apart, and used gorilla glue and some of the outdoor 3m double sided tape. I let it sit overnight and that thing is perfect now. The dealer was supposed to fix it but it looked like they shot some elmers in there and called it a day.

Il try and get pics you can see the glue where it foamed up out of the creases.

MAY03LT
04-23-2008, 08:35 PM
Mine actually seperated, it was barely holding on and made a horrible noise when driving

Mine did too right under the third brake light, that noise was NASTY:bonk::crazy:

Its a T25 for the screws if anyones wondering

blazinlow89
04-24-2008, 02:36 AM
I used an allen key that was on one of my multi-screw driver sets :D kind of on the fly, cross wind was nasty and the damn thing would flap up and down so i pulled over and just went at it, and cut the wires to brake light lol. It all works now, mine came off on the passager side.

dmonday
01-09-2009, 03:39 PM
I just got off the phone with one of the customer service idiots and they wouldn't cover the repair b/c GM doesn't have any records of this happening......seriously. I laughed at her. I let her know what I thought about the bailout and how I couldn't believe GM doesn't stand behind their vehicles. I told her it would be the first and last GM vehicle I own. I looked at the Honda pilot for my wife and I told the c.s. rep I should have gotten it. (that's the short version) I really chewed her ass. She asked if there was anything else she could do. I told her she hasn't done anything. :hissy:

07TB
01-09-2009, 04:01 PM
Is your truck still covered by the 3/36 warranty?

dmonday
01-09-2009, 04:04 PM
No, I got the truck 1 month ago. It's got 44k. What I explained to them is that this is not something that goes bad with mileage. It's a freaking hinge, all it has to do is open! I'm still trying to cool down, I almost (almost) feel bad for the person that called me. I'm normally not like that but 3 bad phone calls in a row will light me up (and it felt good!).

07TB
01-09-2009, 04:19 PM
Since you are not the original owner and it is out of warranty, GM probably won't offer any assistance. What about where you bought it from?

dmonday
01-09-2009, 04:28 PM
Being the original owner isn't part of it. Warranties transfer regardless and something people consider when buying new/used vehicles is resale value. When a manafacturers don't stand behind their products (or not changing the design since 02) can lower the value. If my Trailblazer cost 38k new, and in 2 yrs is worth 10k, any intelligent person is going to look at that when considering the purchase of a new vehicle. This is a design issue with a TSB out on it, not a warranty issue and for GM to tell me they've never heard about it is complete BS. It's not the dealerships fault, they didn't design it and GM's pockets are a lot deeper (especially with our tax money going into it, b/c their lack of being able to make wise business decisions).

07TB
01-09-2009, 04:46 PM
Hate to disagree but, being the original owner has a lot to do with it when asking for assistance from GM especially when the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty has expired. You should have looked into what remaining warranty was on the truck before purchasing it. Didn't whoever sold it to you give you or offer you a warranty? The only warranty that would tranfer automatically with the vehicle is the emission and rust through warranties. If the truck had an exteneded warranty with the previous owner, then that could have been transferred to you at the time of purchase for whatevewr cost there is on that particular extended waranty.

Somebody got 44k+ miles out of it and the 3/36 warranty is no longer valid.

Don't expect a customer service rep to know about all the TSB's that are released. There are 100's of TSBs for each vehicle line and for each year that the vehicle is manufactured.

dmonday
01-09-2009, 04:52 PM
I hope you bought yours new then so when yours breaks you have a leg to stand on. Because GM doesn't give a crap once they have your money. Here comes my business Japan, USA can have it back when we produce vehicles that are designed as well and last as long as yours. There is a reason why Honda's and Toyota's hold value well.

mikemu79
01-09-2009, 04:57 PM
The warranty does not transfer over that is why some vehicles are gm certified and some are not. My TB was gm certified which is why even though the vehicle blue book was 12,575 i had to pay the tax on 16,000 because of it being gm certified otherwise there would be no such thing. So even the state recognizes that the warranty does not transfer over.

dmonday
01-09-2009, 05:06 PM
So then going back to my original post, you guys agree that this is just a problem that a lot of customers have had with the same vehicle and we should just accept that? My thought would be, fix the issue. No one should have to settle for or gamble on a part we all know is going to break and we just cross our fingers that when we go to use our lift gate that this is not the time it breaks (possibly blowing out your whole back window). Then get the response "we have no record of that"?
I'm sorry but I expect more.

07TB
01-09-2009, 09:13 PM
I hope you bought yours new then so when yours breaks you have a leg to stand on. Because GM doesn't give a crap once they have your money. Here comes my business Japan, USA can have it back when we produce vehicles that are designed as well and last as long as yours. There is a reason why Honda's and Toyota's hold value well.


GM doesn't have YOUR money. They have the originals purchasers' money. And yes, I bought mine new because I wanted a warranty. You should have done the same if you wanted a warranty.
If you think the foreign manufacturers's warranty is better, you are sadly mistaken. Once the factory warranty expires, you are on your own. Period.
I guess you never seen the service department of a foreign manufacturer. Their techs are sitting around doing nothing because their products don't break. I don't think so. GM stands behind their product a lot more than any foreign manufacturer. Their cars break as much, if not more, than domestic vehicles.
GM owes you nothing. As far as they are concerned, you are not one of their customers. If you bought a used widget, and the original warranty expired, the manufacturer of said widget should take care of you? This is my last post on this subject. Maybe if you had a history with a GM dealer, maybe they would have taken care of it.

dmonday
01-10-2009, 09:55 AM
You didn't answer my question you idiot.

The Black Pearl
01-11-2009, 02:11 AM
The GM extended warranty does not cover this problem. I had to pay the dealership to fix this POS part....

keitho64
01-11-2009, 03:13 AM
Personally I cannot see this being covered under any extended warranty. I live in the Chicago area and what I observe is the snow builds up on the roof and when you open the liftgate it binds on all the snow and pops the small plastic clip off the hinge.

I am the original owner and when mine first happened I was well out of warranty. I called the dealer and was told it would not be covered so that is when I looked at what happened. It really isn't that difficult to fix as long as the clips are not broke.

As for this being a design flaw I am not sure. It works as long as there is not a buildup of snow and ice on the roof.

I would be curious to hear if this problem is more in the snow belt or if it occurs in the warmer climates. Anyone in the south experience this problem?

blazinlow89
01-11-2009, 03:50 AM
I would be curious to hear if this problem is more in the snow belt or if it occurs in the warmer climates. Anyone in the south experience this problem?

Dont get much snow here and when mine broke there was no snow or ice on the truck. However my truck did come from NY so it could have had a cheap fix before i bought mine.

The fix i did is holding up very well, have hit the governor and never had it pop off for other reasons. Mine wasnt the clips it was the metal mounting bracket and the place where the plastic is welded to the clips, if you take some time its an easy fix.

dmonday
01-11-2009, 07:35 PM
We opened my hatch at my house to load xmas presents in it, literally drove 2 miles to a friends house and it popped there. No snow or ice on it. I'm just going to fix the part when it gets warmer b/c I refuse to pay chevy to fix something that they know is a problem. One guy on here has had the problem 3 times! Over $1800 worth of repairs if they were quoted the $673 I was! I like the truck...but I won't recommend it to anyone. I'm leasing it for another 11 months and I'm planning on a Pilot after that, if Chevy had chose to do the right thing it would be a different story.

stephenl
01-29-2009, 11:20 PM
I had this same problem two weeks ago. The clip came off on the drivers side and the plastic piece was sitting up about one inch so I took it to the dealership. They fiddled around with it and told me that they had to order the parts as the clip was broken and the parts were on backorder so they would be there in about a week. When they gave me back my truck that night the plastic piece was now sitting up about two inches with a big one inch gap between the roof and the rubber seal. I couldn't even open the door.

Last week I took it in and they put the new parts on and told me it was done. When I picked it up there was about 1/4 inch gap between the plastic and the glass on the drivers side. Apparently the double sided tape didn't stick well.

Today I took it back for them to fix once more and it looks like they finally got it fixed right, but on the way home from the dealership I heard some thumping a couple of times. After I got home and parked in my driveway and went up on my porch I looked back at my truck and there was a large rubber mallet with a wooden handle on my roof.

Tomorrow when it's light out I'm going to have a good look at my roof and make sure there is no damage from the mallet and then I'm going to call the dealership and give them a piece of my mind.:hissy:

The job was thankfully under warranty, but come on. First they made it worse, then they didn't do the job correctly, then they were neglegent and could have damaged my truck, or even worse, the mallet could have flew off the roof and hurt someone for which I would have been found responsible.

IMHO their trim guy is a complete bozo! I also had two other trim redos that they messed up once done today.

Since I had some other work done as well I did a complete walk around to check it out before leaving the dealership, but who climbs up and looks to make sure there's not a mallet on their roof before driving.:duh:

blazinlow89
01-30-2009, 03:04 AM
I had this same problem two weeks ago. The clip came off on the drivers side and the plastic piece was sitting up about one inch so I took it to the dealership. They fiddled around with it and told me that they had to order the parts as the clip was broken and the parts were on backorder so they would be there in about a week. When they gave me back my truck that night the plastic piece was now sitting up about two inches with a big one inch gap between the roof and the rubber seal. I couldn't even open the door.

Last week I took it in and they put the new parts on and told me it was done. When I picked it up there was about 1/4 inch gap between the plastic and the glass on the drivers side. Apparently the double sided tape didn't stick well.

Today I took it back for them to fix once more and it looks like they finally got it fixed right, but on the way home from the dealership I heard some thumping a couple of times. After I got home and parked in my driveway and went up on my porch I looked back at my truck and there was a large rubber mallet with a wooden handle on my roof.

Tomorrow when it's light out I'm going to have a good look at my roof and make sure there is no damage from the mallet and then I'm going to call the dealership and give them a piece of my mind.:hissy:

The job was thankfully under warranty, but come on. First they made it worse, then they didn't do the job correctly, then they were neglegent and could have damaged my truck, or even worse, the mallet could have flew off the roof and hurt someone for which I would have been found responsible.

IMHO their trim guy is a complete bozo! I also had two other trim redos that they messed up once done today.

Since I had some other work done as well I did a complete walk around to check it out before leaving the dealership, but who climbs up and looks to make sure there's not a mallet on their roof before driving.:duh:

The main reason i fix most of my stuff myself (especially this problem still going good after a year and a half), even if it is under warranty. of course unless its a big thing that i dont want to mess with.

Funny thing my uncle had an 87 camaro that had some engine work done at a dealer. He heard some noise under the hood so when he got home he looked around and found a 2" flat head screw driver.

stephenl
01-30-2009, 10:37 AM
Once my warranty runs out believe me I will be fixing more things myself. I'm sick of making sure that things are done right on any of my vehicles. This part was broken so I had them replace it and fix it under warranty. By this thread it appears that the cost of the repair is in the $700 range so the part must cost a couple of hundred anyway.

soldierman
02-09-2009, 04:01 PM
Hey so does anyone have a website link or suggestion to where I can find that entire piece with the light. I'm stationed in Germany and there are zero chevy dealerships nearby. I was driving on the autobahn at actually a decent speed of just over 100mph (wouldnt reccomend driving a Trailblazer faster than that whew) and the entire piece flew off the back of my Truck. Have no idea of where it ended up. I have the access to any of the tools required here on base but finding that part has been a pain in my you know what. Any help would be appreciated.

stopher2
03-01-2009, 09:22 AM
my applique pulled off too. 2003 TB and i am disappointed in how cheap the applique is designed.
it is taped onto the glass, has 2 "flying bolts" attaching each to a clip connecting to the glass.
it has 2 more bolts screwed to a bar that goes across the applique and is taped to that, along with the sunken nuts into weak plastic buttresses...which broke off.

time for epoxy and/or gorilla glue along with 2 sided body tape, and a sunny day to warm up the glass (it needs to be 70F to adhere properly)

PLAUSIBLE ROOT CAUSES
--a poplar tree dropped lots of sap on the car which grabbed the rubber applique sweep and, when the hatch opened, bent the clips; initiating the problem. (the tree is now cut down !)
--opening the gate and window concurrenlty may have given it a bad open angle causing extra stress.
--a boat or two may have dislodged it and aided in the wrenching the hatch caused with the poplar sap.
GM made a garbage design to get it out the door.

all of these are probably true. i'll let you know how i fare with the refabrication. otherwise I'll be looking for a pulled part.

I have a follow on...

I removed the entire hatch trim....the part with the light. I laid it out and cleaned off the 2 sided tape, rebent the metal alignment slides for the screws to take a better approach to the plastic.
I sanded the plastic and applied GORRILLA GLUE with a drop of water to activate it.

There are plastic "finger" guides that protruede from the plastic to the door hinge. These fingers were broken off. I glued them along with a fabricated piece of metal the size of a dime to give them future support.

After the "refabrication" I put it back together with the double sided tape (use alcohol to clean the glass and trim parts...it'll stick better).

I reassembled it and it has been working great ever since.

GM design of this part really sucks but with some cursing and beer, we can persevere.

dirtbag
03-08-2009, 09:50 PM
I just noticed today that the top piece of my LiftGate (the plastic piece) has skewed off by 1 to 2 inches... When I open either the Glass Lift or the entire LiftGate is rubs and creaks onto the back roof of my Trailblazer.
At first I thought it was the very cold weather we are having with the Ice and Snow.. But later this afternoon I looked at it closer and it is off by a couple of inches. I never had any problem like this last winter....

I wonder if I could have done this myself last night with Snow and Ice on the roof..??? I had to open the liftgate to get to my IceScrapper to clean off the truck.
My TB is a 2004 EXT and just turned over 36k miles.....

I checked thru the threads and it looked like a few people had problems with it sliding down. And possible problems might be the double-stick tape??? I did notice on mine that there are about 4 screws holding this on..I might attempt to take them off and try to reseat this...

Questions, Has anyone tried this before..?? and also has anyone heard any Service Recalls, bulletins on this...???
Thanks

I have a 2004 GMC Envoy Excel--This happened to me two times so far...Once before the 36K warrenty was up (around 2006), the most recent time just a few weeks ago around 56K and managed to fix it at home with a TK-25 drive bit and a pair of pliers to reshape the outermost (driver side) bracket which is glued to the hatchback glass on one end and has an elongated hole on the other side for (1) of the (4) TK-25 bolts which secures the 3rd brakelight fin in place.

The first time at 36K I smashed the fin beyond home repair while opening up the rear gate one day. Lucky for me I was able to get a new piece installed from the dealership since it was before the 36 K warranty.

HOW TO FIX:
Opening up the rear glass hatch--Carefully so that the 3rd brakelight fin doesn't get crushed--(which you probably already know how to do by now). You will see (4) TK-25 bolts. You will probably also see that there are (2) plastic C-shaped hinges which are part of the 3rd brakelight fin--one or both of them most likely is/are lifted up and is/are not properly engaged on the metal rod. The plastic C-shaped hinge on the driver side is thicker than the one on the passenger side, and this thicker one was the one that was not engaged on the metal rod in my case.

Next, unscrew all (4) of the TK-25 bolts. Note that (2) of the (4) metal brackets on the outsides are made of a noticeably lighter gauge metal--(the (2) metal brackets on the insides seem way too sturdy to be bent--and if GM would have used the like gauge on the outside brackets, IMO this issue would not be happening.

As I was saying, in my case, the metal bracket on the driver side was the one that bent completely out of it's proper formation. I took a pair of pliers and GENTLY bent the portion of this clip back into the proper location by looking at the position the one was in on the passenger side. NOTE: USE SMALL, GENTLE MOTIONS WHEN BENDING IT BACK INTO PLACE, AND DO SO AS FAR AWAY FROM THE GLASS AS POSSIBLE (GRAB THE TIP OF THE BRACKET AND BEND THE NARROW PORTION OF IT AT THE END). BENDING THESE METAL BRACKETS TOO CLOSE TO THE GLASS TOWARDS THE MIDDLE WITH TOO MUCH FORCE COULD CAUSE YOUR REAR HATCH GLASS TO BREAK.

Once the driver side metal clip was bent back into it's proper place I was able to get the C-shaped hinge back on the rod where it belonged. I did this by closing the rear glass, climbing on the back bumper and rear driver side tire and pushed down firmly on top of the 3rd brakelight fin until it was back on the rod. I kept waiting for a snap, but never heard one. It seems as though this is just a static friction-type connection. I then reopened the rear hatch glass. While I continued to push downward toward the glass from the top of the fin thus engaging the C-shaped hinge properly on the metal rod, my son hand screwed the TK-25 bolts back into place. Then I came back and tightened them up some more and we were done.

God only knows how many more times I'll have to do this over the life of the vehicle. I guess I'll finally have to clean out my garage and get it parked indoors over the winter months...:duh:

gpski
03-18-2009, 10:46 AM
Hi

I have a 008 tb that seems to have a similar setup for the rear window door .

When I look at it from above there is a plastic edge that runs along the plastic applique along the backside of the rear door.This peice jams on the "ice" or alien material that deforms the applique and causes the window to break. I figure what is needed is a strip of about 1/8 inch thick ruberized material about 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide running the lentght of the rear door (8') attached to the truck side roof ( with rivets and roofing tar hahaha) to create an shield that will prevent any material , snow ice rain water from getting into the space between the truck ledge and the rear door plastic applique. This small piece of "weatherstriping" could be used to eliminate any posiblity of ice , snow, sap , foreign material entering the space between the door and rear truck door frame .

ie I'll take a pic and use some drawings to describe what I'm thing of doing.

Ie I saw this technique used on the rudder and elevators of Cessna 150's and 172 to keep material ,ie air out from between the rudder and moving rudder parts .

you need the pic :crazy:

top view now
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/TB%20008/TB008roof-1.jpg

top view with flap
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/TB%20008/TB008roof2-1.jpg

side view now
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/TB%20008/TB008roofsideview.jpg

side view with flap
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/TB%20008/TB008roofsideview3.jpg



http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=941469&Ntt=941469&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=112208&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

possible this product

http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/a795b9c2-7ef8-4534-b7f1-2b5ab344e19b_4.jpg

dwayneearle
03-24-2009, 10:11 AM
Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when dealing with this issue. It's happened 3 times on my 2003 Envoy XL... all during the original factory warranty period, and repairs included replacement of the trim piece, replacement of the brackets, body work and paint to damaged roof area, new rear glass, ect...

To the best of my knowledge, as ice and snow builds up in the door hinge, it prevents the trim from going into the roof as it's supposed to. As the door opens farther, the weak brackets that hold the trim on are what gives way, and as they bend, the trim distorts, and it's possible to crack the rear glass where the hinges attach with enough pressure. As more ice and snow collects, the problem gets worse, and eventually you start damaging paint and metal, as well as the rear glass.

All this damage doesn't happen over a month of using a damaged door... you can incur serious damage the first time it happens... thus the reason it's happened 3 times to me. (i'm not just dense... :laugh:)

In the end, GM redesigned the brackets, making them stronger so ice/snow buildup will not cause them to bend. Since the new brackets were installed, I haven't had any issues with the rear door. If you're still under warranty take it to the dealership and have them install the new brackets... if you're not under factory warranty, but still under an extended one, this may still be covered. I haven't checked, but this may be included in some of the service bulletins for these vehicles.

Hopefully this helps... best of luck!

I just took mine in for the 2nd time today. I have an extended warranty and they say it's my fault because I didn't do a good enough job on the snow. Funny thing is when it broke this time there wasn't any snow on the ground.:undecided If anyone has a link to a service bulletin I'd be very appreciative.

Thanks

gpski
03-24-2009, 01:37 PM
Sounds like a typical northern dealers reply-- the customer didn't remove all the snow in canada --ie
you are responsible for their bad design.

I don't think the tsb will really help....

After all you are held negligent for buying their truck that does not meet any minimum spec such as working in snowy canada. really? :hopeless

I guess the answer is to buy some car at a dealership were they hold themselves to a "higher standard"
hahahah

-- nice going stdealership way to educate your customers about how uninteligent they are :weird:

dwayneearle
03-24-2009, 05:14 PM
Because it's a service bulletin... this may be a free of charge repair at your dealer. I would print out a copy of the service bulletin and talk to the service manager at your local dealer to see if they will work with you on it. It never hurts to ask, and you may get yourself a free repair out of the deal!

I think not, I am outside my factory but I bought an extended warranty and they wont touch it because its trim and that's not covered. Even the fact that I brought out the TSB didn't make a difference.

gpski
04-12-2009, 07:41 PM
I can't belive that they use glass as a structural element in their rear hatch design

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/trailblazer/rear%20window/100_6451.jpg

I mean its glued to the hatch strut ! whats next -- an engine made of cardboard ?

makes you wonder why they do this ?:bonk:

and oh please tell me why this is ? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/trailblazer/rear%20window/100_6473.jpg

I mean why not add a metal cup and chain to the hood after painting?

I guess its there to keep the rear window from rattling breaking its way out of the frame sigh

maybe that grand cherokee was a better unit....

diprampero
04-14-2009, 03:48 PM
:mad: What a waste of money for the extended warranty! They told me that I had over 40,000 miles and the truth is I have 40,759 miles. What a bunch of crap. GM is a garbage company.

I just got off the phone with one of the customer service idiots and they wouldn't cover the repair b/c GM doesn't have any records of this happening......seriously. I laughed at her. I let her know what I thought about the bailout and how I couldn't believe GM doesn't stand behind their vehicles. I told her it would be the first and last GM vehicle I own. I looked at the Honda pilot for my wife and I told the c.s. rep I should have gotten it. (that's the short version) I really chewed her ass. She asked if there was anything else she could do. I told her she hasn't done anything. :hissy:

diprampero
04-14-2009, 03:53 PM
Nice try but the extended warranty doesn't cover it!

Hate to disagree but, being the original owner has a
lot to do with it when asking for assistance from GM especially when the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty has expired. You should have looked into what remaining warranty was on the truck before purchasing it. Didn't whoever sold it to you give you or offer you a warranty? The only warranty that would tranfer automatically with the vehicle is the emission and rust through warranties. If the truck had an exteneded warranty with the previous owner, then that could have been transferred to you at the time of purchase for whatevewr cost there is on that particular extended waranty.

Somebody got 44k+ miles out of it and the 3/36 warranty is no longer valid.

Don't expect a customer service rep to know about all the TSB's that are released. There are 100's of TSBs for each vehicle line and for each year that the vehicle is manufactured.

seven7mln
04-23-2009, 08:58 PM
I as well had a problem with the liftgate top plastic piece. It is sitting a bit higher then it should. This makes the plastic piece catch on the roof and thus the door will not open all the way. It is a bit alkward but if I stand on the rear bumper I can push the plastic down enough so that it will clear enough to open. I see that there is two small clips that clip on around the hinges and they are out. I do not see how to remove this and then get it back in place so any help would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you very much in advance.

I have a 2003 envoy xl that had the same problem. The top part of the plastic would not stay clipped in the two retainers. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced the plastic piece. A couple of months later, the same thing happen again. I decided to fix it myself by removing the liftgate and drilling several small holes to an inside lip and tying the plastic down with some picture framing wire. Shouldn’t have to go through this much trouble, but it seems that the only thing that the dealer could do was to replace it with the same problems.

cschillo
04-26-2009, 01:29 AM
i have expierinced what your talking about with my 05 ext. i don't really know abou the snow, ice build up thing could very well be possible. but i live in a dey climate(pueblo, co) i bought mine used so no warrenty, but few months ago started havin a hard time opening the gate and glass just like everyone else, and noticed it wasnt on the best but couldnt figure out how to fix it. my wife took it to a machined car wash to clean it before a trip to colorado springs. on the way back from colo springs it came off the whole piece except the brake light which banging on the glass. luckily the glass didnt brake but the part is 288 dollars from the dealer plus it would have to be painted

i found on some forums that seemed to be a common issue and was looked at as a faulty design. instead of replacing the part i thought of replacing the whole gate for the molded version you see on 03's n e help would be great


on my side i hope the info was somewhat helpfull

also i want to lift it but i was told by an aftermarket dealer no manufacturers have fabricated a kit and probabily no one will n e help!!!
thanks

gpski
04-27-2009, 10:37 AM
could we graft a cherokee or pilot door to the back of the tb ? :undecided

diprampero
04-29-2009, 08:35 PM
GM wouldn't help my dealer but C Harper Chevy fixed it for my $100 extended warranty deductible. I can't believe that GM would treat their dealers like this. Kudos to C Harper for fixing my Trailblazer. They called it a good will repair.:D

dwayneearle
05-04-2009, 11:32 AM
I just got mine finally fixed. just like the previous guy. I called the 1800 GM Drive phone number reported the issue to them and the steps I took to have it fixed. They investigated the claim and offered to fix the $1000.00 job for my deductible. When I picked it up they said there would be no charge. Whew!!! Now the only question is why are the dealers was so close minded to fixing a problem until head office gets involved, only then to call it a "good will repair"? Why they don't just show "good will" for a crappy design in the first place, I'll never know. :suicide:

the roadie
05-04-2009, 11:43 AM
also i want to lift it but i was told by an aftermarket dealer no manufacturers have fabricated a kit and probabily no one will n e help!!!
thanksThat aftermarket place is horribly underinformed and/or incompetent. There are four lift kit manufacturers for trailvoys. Come to the Offroad forum where we discuss these things. Welcome!

keitho64
05-10-2009, 10:16 PM
My liftgate started to bind again. Unfortunately someone opened it all the way and broke off the two tabs on the plastic cover where it connects to the hinge. It also broke the one spot on the drivers side where the screw goes in. I am attaching some pictures for you to see.

I removed the (not sure the proper name) plastic cover and tried to JB weld it together. I also used JB Weld on the screw hole. I am leaving it set all night and will try to file and sand it smooth before reinstalling. I am afraid this will not work but it is worth a try. I installed a plug in the hole where the third (CHMSL) brake light wire ran so it will not leak if it rains.

So now for my questions,
What is the proper name for this cover?
Does anyone have a part number or know if I can buy one?

There is a bar code sticker on mine with the following numbers 15116607 Chevy CHIMSL DK Spir Gray 38554. Since it is Sunday I have not called any dealers yet. My hope is if the JB Weld wont work I can buy one and have someone paint it for me.

the roadie
05-11-2009, 12:19 AM
Part numbers and exploded parts diagrams are available at www.compnine.com.

keitho64
05-13-2009, 09:12 AM
OK I am hear to report JB Weld does not work on this application. As soon as I put the cover on the two tabs that connect by the hinges snapped. This is what originally broke. I guess if you were VERY careful with the JB Weld it may work but the fit is very tight.

Time to order a new cover and get it painted. I did find one compnine.com that was suggested and here is the actual URL to the part

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2004&artnbr=TS17-150&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=56S&modelcode=T&makecode=LC&modelseries=158&uid=1&modelid=7138&capuid=1&majorgroup=17&grouptype=B


I also found the part at

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=221352

I am going to call a few dealers today and see if they have it as well. I may even try a few boneyards and see if I can get lucky and find one in the same color.

keitho64
06-19-2009, 02:15 PM
OK my new liftgate cover arrived today. I just need to paint and install it. I was hoping the system would have been redesigned but the hinge parts are still plastic.

Thanks to the help here I found part number 19120564 at www dot paceperformance dot com for 229.00.

gpski
08-20-2009, 02:00 PM
Rear Liftgate cover improvement project 009/a

I fabbed a fix for this problem as I see it , but it has to put on before any trouble happens.

At least I think it fixes this problem.
The root cause===> is the stuff that gets into the crack at the back of the tb on the roof.
Then the plastic window top gets deformed by the "stuff"

Stop that , me says --:undecided and you can save the money for a repair .

I used 6 threaded inserts 1/4 inch ( 6 holes in the roof of my new truck :duh: and a 3/4 inch strip flat alumnium with yup 6 holes carfully measured and a stair landing rubber cover from homedepot about 5 feet .

if your interested I'll post a pic of the completed effort.
Now for the acid test of a canadian snowy , freezing rainy winter shiver



http://www.flexitec.com.au/flooringaccessories/stairNosing.gif

if you have the rear window open and you open the rear tailgate -- you have damaged the applique too bad.
If you continue to open the tailgate the window shatters --- ouch

gpski
08-25-2009, 08:07 AM
a possible fix

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/trailblazer/IMG_3887.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/twister55/trailblazer/IMG_3889.jpg

jaraxle
09-26-2009, 06:19 PM
I bought my Envoy with the (CHMSL) already broke off, the plastic bosses on either end were still screwed to the window brackets and I could see the tape on the center bar. I tried to remount it using epoxy on the bosses and new tape in the middle, but it only held for a short time. I spent time this past weekend fixing it and I will never have that problem again. I removed the (CHMSL) and the center bar that it was taped to, then I drilled three holes (one on either end and one in the middle) and used stainless steel 6-32 bolts with large stainless steel flat washers in conjunction with the tape. I then glued the bosses back on and filled the hole cavity up with epoxy, drilled completely through the (CHMSL) using the previous bolt hole and used the same 6-32 bolts on either end. All the bolts Had to be shortened flush with the nut so it wouldn't hit the tailgate, but I haven't had any further problems. If pictures are requested I will provide some.

jaraxle
09-26-2009, 06:49 PM
This is the way I fixed it.

LA
11-02-2009, 10:25 AM
I have had the same problem as others described on this thread. I have repaired the spoiler/bolts and was all set to re-install when I descovered that the two center mounting brackets are bent. I am very hesitant to try and bend these back - afraid that the glass will break. The two outer brackets are thinner and can be more easily bent but these center ounes are tough. Any suggesions would be greatly apprecitated!

jaraxle
11-02-2009, 10:47 AM
I've done it and it is scary, the only advice I can give is to be very careful. I figured that they bent out of shape and didn't break the glass so I'd try, gingerly, to bend them back. If you're nervous about it don't take the chance.

wwang14
01-13-2010, 05:08 PM
There is a service bulletin on this issue, TSB 060866011, NHTSA # 10020523. I too own an 05 TB EXT and had the misfortune of the plastic rear mounting boss separate. The bolt and metal insert are still fastened securely in the metal bracket, but the plastic fascia has pulled away > 1". The dealer wants $562 to replace/paint the part, but I may attempt to use jaraxle suggestion to keep the plastic corner fastened.

If you're under warranty and you have a good dealer, may want to see what can be done in advance of damage.
Good Luck to everyone, becuase this problem won't go away if you live in an area with snow.

Cheers:tiphat

ibidu1
01-13-2010, 07:21 PM
The funny thing is my friend has the exact same problem on his Honda Pilot. We ended up taking the plastic off and jb welding. The plastic trim did put a bend on his roof, we had to bend the roof back for the plastic to clear when opening.

ibidu1
01-13-2010, 07:36 PM
See here they too have a TSB for the Honda Pilot's

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/showthread/honda/pilot/TSB-03-060-Scraping-or-Popping-when-Opening-the-Tailgate/t-5789.html

wwang14
01-17-2010, 05:13 PM
Well I was very lucky this time. It seems other than the passenger side threaded insert pulling away from the plastic boss on the CHMSL spoiler there wasn't any further damage to the spoiler. I JB Weld'd the metal insert back into the housing and will re-install it on the vehicle when the weather gets warmer. Why wait some may ask???

The problem isn't the design of the spoiler (maybe) but the passenger side bracket design is very flimsy. The uppermost one, near the CHMSL lite appears it has been designed so it can be bent during vehicle assembly because it is not as rigid like the drivers side bracket. I believe this is what makes it susceptible to bending when snow/ice accumulates on the roof.

When the weather gets warmer, I'll have to "finesse" bending the bracket so the spoiler aligns properly with the body roof surface.
At least for now the lifgate door and glass are fully operational and I'll make sure to keep it in the garage during heavy snows.

I'll try and post some pictures later so people will know what to look for.

combatmedic
02-11-2010, 04:02 PM
I also just had the plastic pieces break. So there is no way to just replace the plastic clips??

FunkZ
02-23-2010, 01:37 PM
Just had this happen to mine for the first time. Normally it is garage kept but it was parked outside during a heavy, wet snow. When the liftgate was opened both plastic hinges slipped off their pins, the outside right bolt plastic cracked and the outside left bolt insert broke loose. Since I figured it would easily happen again I opted to just fix it as best I could. I removed all 4 bolts and then just stood on the bumper and pulled back while pushing down on top to reseat the hinges, then reinstalled the bolts. It seems to be holding for now. I guess if it works loose again I'll make the extra effort to cut the tape and remove the piece entirely to repair the cracked plastic, but now that we're aware of the problem we'll be more careful about opening the gate after inclement weather.

stopher2
03-02-2010, 03:30 PM
I have a follow on...

I removed the entire hatch trim....the part with the light. I laid it out and cleaned off the 2 sided tape, rebent the metal alignment slides for the screws to take a better approach to the plastic.
I sanded the plastic and applied GORRILLA GLUE with a drop of water to activate it.

There are plastic "finger" guides that protruede from the plastic to the door hinge. These fingers were broken off. I glued them along with a fabricated piece of metal the size of a dime to give them future support.

After the "refabrication" I put it back together with the double sided tape (use alcohol to clean the glass and trim parts...it'll stick better).

I reassembled it and it has been working great ever since.

GM design of this part really sucks but with some cursing and beer, we can persevere.



DAMN, DAMN, DAMN ! after 8 months it happened again. This time the snow came down and got into the rear hatch. when opened, it tore the plastic off the 2 sided tape...here we go again....refab.

I'll need to do the undercover mod noted here...

viking1210
03-19-2010, 01:03 AM
Well.... in hindsight, I would have looked into this more, but my lift gate upper molding popped out about three months ago. I tried to push the plastic clips back under the rods, but the whole unit was deformed and would not stay in place. Unfortunately, we drove the car down the highway and the wind grabbed the molding and ripped it off! Needless to say, the piece is in sorry shape, and after inspection of the screw-on brackets left on the vehicle, it obviously tweaked the brackets. I am aware that I can order a new molding, but how can ensure that my brackets are square and the new piece will work properly?? Thank you for your input.

P.S. I have read the service note, but I am looking for personal experience in dealing with this ongoing problem!! I am very disappointed with the quality of this part, and I am also questioning the quality of my TB overall!!

Thank you

confusedsoul
03-29-2010, 12:07 AM
Add another one with the same problem. Thought we were going to get by without this happening. Guess not!

NewmanB
04-05-2010, 06:37 PM
As for this being a design flaw I am not sure. It works as long as there is not a buildup of snow and ice on the roof.

I would be curious to hear if this problem is more in the snow belt or if it occurs in the warmer climates. Anyone in the south experience this problem?

This is the 2nd time that the rear window has literally "blown up" on this particular vehicle. The first time my wife was at a busy grocery store when she started to lower the back hatch and the entire back window exploded. It was so loud and devastating that she thought someone had fired a shotgun into the back window! The dealership replaced the window in 2008 as a courtesy.

Less than two weeks ago it happened again as I dropped my two young children off at school. I opened the gate, removed their school bags, shut the hatch and took approximately 3 steps and Kapoww! The entire window exploded right in the school's bus circle. The explosion was so great that it even blew one of the window lift cylinders right out into the road!! The wife wasn't kidding...the sound is deafening.

Contacted GM and was told that a technical bulletin was issued (03-08-48-006G Rev. Feb 25th 2010...I would like to get a hold of this bulletin) regarding the replacement of the window clips . I was issued a Case number and waited over a week for a reply. In essence I was told that if the clips weren't replaced it would happen again. Well unfortunately this bulletin wasn't available in 2008 when it was originally replaced so it happened again.

Contacted customer service again, was told vehicle has too many miles, is no longer under warrantee, the original repair was only good for 1 year, and that this is "my baby' to deal with. BUT the service rep offered me $1000,00 GM loyalty bucks (something like this) that I could use on a new GM vehicle.

I am furious to say the least and when I asked for the name and number of the customer service rep he told me that I could have the name, but not the number, as his supervisor doesn't speak to customers!!!!:hissy:

stopher2
04-05-2010, 09:21 PM
OK I am hear to report JB Weld does not work on this application. As soon as I put the cover on the two tabs that connect by the hinges snapped. This is what originally broke. I guess if you were VERY careful with the JB Weld it may work but the fit is very tight.

Time to order a new cover and get it painted. I did find one compnine.com that was suggested and here is the actual URL to the part

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2004&artnbr=TS17-150&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=56S&modelcode=T&makecode=LC&modelseries=158&uid=1&modelid=7138&capuid=1&majorgroup=17&grouptype=B


I also found the part at

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=221352

I am going to call a few dealers today and see if they have it as well. I may even try a few boneyards and see if I can get lucky and find one in the same color.



I've submitted 2 comments on this subject. It happened again. Don't use gorilla glue. It is too weak. Try the plastic epoxy in the double syringe for the plastic nut holders.

The root cause is either: 1) open window and door at the same time, which makes opening offset and binds the clipette into the body and breaks it. 2) ice, sap, snow, something gets into the space and, when the window or door opens, it breaks off.

in summary, the hinge point gets broken when something gets stuck in it binding the plastic.

gpski
04-08-2010, 10:02 AM
I agree :

The root cause is either:

1) open window and door at the same time, which makes opening offset and binds the clipette into the body and breaks it.

2) ice, sap, snow, something gets into the space and, when the window or door opens, it breaks off.

in summary, the hinge point gets broken when something gets stuck in it binding the plastic



The actual root cause is very poor design by the factory engyneers ( did I spell that wrong?, disrespect intended):eek:

You cannot open the rear window and the back door at the same time

or while one or the other is open;--- or else
"Bang" $2500 blow (up) job.

1! There should be a lock out mechanizem built into the rear door / window , that stops the opening of window or door as needed when the other is opened.

2! There should be a cover over the hinge line at the top of the rear door to prevent the intrusion of any foriegn matter into the area that needs to be clear to operate the rear door to prevent the minor facia from being broken cascading into greater problems.

Epitimy of poor design ,
I like the engine the i-6 is great ,
but
the back door was designed by the last guy on the assembly line between coffee breaks and layoff notices :mad:


as a home fix maybe disable the window button from allowing the window from opening without the whole door being lifted.

moms_bus
05-02-2010, 12:40 AM
I kept hearing this rattling noise on my last trip out of town while drivng on the thruway. Pulled over twice to make sure the liftgate/window were both closed and latched. Nothing wrong with them. I don't believe I ever opened them both at the same time. So, while re-entering the four laner, the noise became terribly loud and I looked out the rearview mirror just in time to watch the whole upper liftgate molding with my third brakelight blow off!! Seriously? :eek: WTF!?!?

lsfloden
06-28-2010, 03:50 PM
I noticed my 2003 EXT tailgate wouldn't open all the way about a month after we bought it. I thought at first that the dealer we bought it from had it installed wrong since he had mentioned that it was out for repairs on this part when we first wanted to look at it. I had no idea these were a problem at the time. Well, last week my wife was driving to pick me up and the whole piece, 3rd brake light and all flew off across 3 lanes of traffic and luckily landed in the grass and not in someones wind shield (GM would have really loved that lawsuit). So now I'm missing the piece. I have a friend that that used to work for a GM dealer, he told me to call chevy. Well, I just called and they can't find the TSB, even with the number I gave them. She said they are only 5 digit numbers. Basically she's telling me, you are the second owner and it has 100000 miles, sorry we aren't going to do anything.

I seem to remember a second hand 70s malibu with removed bumper that got rearended and burst into flames and GM ended up taking care of that one, a few million dollars later.

lsfloden
06-28-2010, 04:39 PM
I made another call, thinking I had the information but still nothing. What is the 5 digit TSB number that they want?

sanger35
08-30-2010, 08:12 PM
I have an 02 EXT with 95,000 miles and have not had an issue with this. The glass is locked if the liftgate is open, and the liftgate is locked if the glass is open.

I am looking to replace the liftgate as its rusted through. But I don't know if I want a used one that might have all of these problems. Does anyone know if the liftgates from 2003 to 2008 are all the same as the 2002?

I'm in Rochester NY so we get our share of snow too.

FunkZ
08-31-2010, 10:02 PM
I agree. Despite having the issue with the top plastic trim when snow/ice built up under it, when you hear cracking/popping you STOP instead of trying to force the gate open. When the lift is open the button for the glass does not work. You would have to open the glass first and then open the lift to experience this problem, which I have done although very carefully on purpose, in order to load a large object into the rear with corners that stick out and will only fit with the glass open.

One thing I will admit is that the glass does not close/latch easily. My wife is always too ready to slam the glass to get it to latch even after repeated warnings that it will be an expensive mistake when she inadvertantly shatters the rear window. It is a simple matter to close the glass and then give a gentle push on the handle to latch it. It seems the curvature of the glass coupled with the rubber seal is to blame for a too-tight latch.

sanitcapt1
09-06-2010, 07:12 PM
i am getting the same problem and as a previous poster stated, this is the first and LAST GMC envoy i buy. i've had nothing but trouble from this vehicle. from replacing ball joints to stabilizer bar control arms, slipping clutch plate et al............ i bought this truck brand new in 2002 and only have 37,000 plus on it and i'm tired of this piece of crap........ i will attempt to ascertain exactly what went wrong with my lift gate because this just started 4 days ago.......... warm weather, no snow or ice.......... i think we should get together and start a class action products liability lawsuit. i'm sure there are many more out here that don't know about trailvoy and are getting the shaft from this poor product design...............:hissy::hissy::hissy:

alc
01-01-2011, 01:46 PM
It has been really cold here for the last several nights and when I went to open my lift gate after leaving a friends last night it was sticking and then it popped and the upper plastic part had popped off of one side. The part where the little plastic part screws in is broken. Does anyone know a way to fix this? We have never had a problem before with it. We really don't want to have to pay a fortune to have it fixed and my husband is very good with that kind of stuff. We need to push it back down to re-engage the little clips but just wondering if anyone knows how to fix where it broke. Thanks :)

sanitcapt1
01-03-2011, 01:44 PM
I haven't dealt with this problem yet and i have been looking at other envoys and also noticed that my side trim is further away from the back of the truck and exposes the rubber seal (?). i also see the driver's side mold on the rear is not sealed, any thoughts on this????????????

mteegarden
02-07-2011, 10:47 AM
I had the same thing happen to me as described by others. We had some snow and ice and when I went to get the ice scraper out of the back of the TB, I heard the telltale crack and noticed that the side had popped on the molding. I couldn't get it aligned to pop back in because everything was cold. My mistake was leaving the thing on there. A few days later, we were on the highway and I watched my molding go flying down the highway behind me. Luckily it didn't hit anyone and I was able to get it off the road before someone hit it. It is too damaged to reinstall and it ripped the wiring out of the light. I'm hoping that I can find the molding at a junkyard or will check with local body shop. I need to check to see if I can get to the wiring on the light to splice it back in.

Is http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2005&artnbr=TS17-101&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=56S&modelcode=T&makecode=LC&modelseries=158&uid=1&modelid=7150&capuid=1&majorgroup=17&grouptype=B the only game in town? Seems to be the only one I've seen when you can find this part. $288 for the molding alone.

I did find http://paceperformance.com/i-6222691-19120564-mldg-kit.html using the part number that was listed in another post, but no pics or description of the part.

Fortunately, my TB is dark gray and the molding was black. Does it need to be painted or will it just be black plastic?

lsfloden
02-10-2011, 04:41 PM
Since my last post on this back in June of last year I haven't done anything with this.

2 main reasons, the drivers side middle bracket is bent up, I think this is where most people have the issue with this and why the c clips don't stay in. The second issue is the cost. For one thing you would think you could find one on ebay or a salvage yard for cheap, but no. Nothing in the salvage yard around here and because people know this is an issue the ebay prices are about the same as the new price. Also because GM knows this is an issue they are charging way more than it costs them to make this piece because they don't have to replace it for free under a recall. (Same with the head light socket short issue, freaking $34 electrical socket that should be $2).

One of the things I've been looking into is replacing the trailblazer molding with the envoy molding. I like the looks of it better, but I would also have to replace the 2 side molding pieces also. But does anyone know if the 2 models use the same mounting brackets?

Since my 03 TB EXT is black I figure it will be easier to find a black envoy piece since the black and white models used black trim from what I can tell.

Also what do I do about the bent bracket, I'd rather not break the glass trying to bend it.

Finally, are there any aftermarket third brake light spoiler options for the EXT?

LTZ Doug
02-11-2011, 08:53 PM
Glad I found this thread. The upper lift gate molding on my wife's 03 Envoy XL decided that it could fly while she was driving today. Upon making contact with the pavement it, of course, shattered into multiple pieces. Time for a new one along with the third brake light as well. Luckily hers was black so I don't have to worry about painting it.

nelfort
02-11-2011, 09:47 PM
You will still have to get it painted black as it comes in a flat primer black.

That is an expensive part to replace as i got mine done just over a year ago. In Ontario it costs about $800 but picked mine up in USA from GM for less then half.

As for the brackets being bent you can bend them to exactly where they need to be for the C clips to sit properly so you might have to install it a couple of times without the doubled sided tape which is not included when you purchase the part.

mikepb
03-19-2011, 05:00 PM
You will still have to get it painted black as it comes in a flat primer black.

That is an expensive part to replace as i got mine done just over a year ago. In Ontario it costs about $800 but picked mine up in USA from GM for less then half.

As for the brackets being bent you can bend them to exactly where they need to be for the C clips to sit properly so you might have to install it a couple of times without the doubled sided tape which is not included when you purchase the part.

what is the part exactly and it's part # please and where did you get it .? thanks, Mike

LTZ Doug
03-19-2011, 10:35 PM
The cheapest price I've found so far is gmpartsdirect.com. I can post the part numbers for you when I get home tomorrow. Don't have them with me.

edit - Here are the part numbers for the GMC Envoy XL ONLY:

19120563 : MLDG KIT $310.21
19120547 : RUBBER SEAL 90.50
15201921 : LAMP (CHMSL) 209.37

The prices posted are dealer retail prices. You can find this stuff much cheaper on the internet. The trailblazer parts are different. I know at least the molding itself has a different shape. The seal and CMHSL may be the same, I don't know.

mikepb
03-20-2011, 07:01 PM
:thanks, what if i just slap on the spoiler [part #17800712] with no light ? how would that look?

mikepb
03-20-2011, 07:06 PM
Why no recall? Unreal !!!!! How do we go about getting this recalled !!

mikepb
03-20-2011, 07:12 PM
thanks, good to know. But why no recall? Unreal !!!!! How do we go about getting this recalled !!

mikepb
03-20-2011, 07:20 PM
If I put on this spoiler accessory [part #17800712] how much of a gap is there between the new spoiler and the truck ? anybody have any pics? thanks, Mike

LTZ Doug
03-27-2011, 09:01 PM
Wow! Thanks for the tip on the Avalanche light guys. That's gonna save me almost $75. The GM light is $128 + shipping on gmpartsdirect vs the Ebay light which is $45 + shipping. Nice! That should keep the whole price tag down to about $300.

EKphys
09-27-2011, 08:46 PM
Similar problems it sounds like... 2006 EXT Trailblazer. 18 months ago the plastic piece at the top of the rear window fell off on the highway. I rescued it, yet have since tied the LED taillight with wire.

Recently, one of the glue joint connecting the rear glass to the metal plate forming the hinge bracket let go, leaving the window pressed up by the lifter and not connected on the drivers side. It held itself in with the latch and the hinge on the right side. A week later, and the first trip on the highway in this condition, the other side popped leaving the rear glass held only by the bottom center latch. The door lifters both separated form the window frame at the base under the stress of the breaking glue joints. I was able to hit the ditch and use two web straps to hold the glass to the back of the car by routing them from the hitch to the roof rack.

SO...now I'm left with a window attached only by the latch and two disconnected lifters. And two nifty red straps holding my window on. The GLUE JOINTS pulled free. They appear to have been 'strengthened' by a previous owner with a dab of roofing tar between the metal and the glass...

Trip to body shop...they say "replace the whole glass assembly." GM part, $1000. Aftermarket part $1100. Used rear window with light assembly...$600+. The glass didn't fall off on the highway...so my insurance likely won't touch it (says the body shop appraiser).

Who has some advice for me? Maybe the original problem was the molding releasing. But not sure that caused the glass to pull free of the glue. WHAT NOW?!

jerryg
10-07-2012, 01:24 PM
I have a 2007 GMC Envoy and I think the LGM is bad due to the locking latch and wipers not working, also the heated rear window and the glass release latch not energizing.
Does anyone know how to check this with a Volt meter ?

lsfloden
08-12-2013, 11:22 PM
Well, I made it 3 years without the part, but now it needs it to pass missouri state inspection for tags, already got one warning for expired tags.

I've found the light for $94 on Amazon. But the molding is being a bit harder to find. I need to get it ordered. I've seen a couple of different parts numbers, but according to some sites it says it isn't the right one.

So everyone, I need the right part number for 2003 Trailblazer EXT LT, rear upper molding 3rd brake light cover and the bolts that go with it.

I've had no luck finding it at salvage yards, even had an "insider" trying to find it and came up short. Ebay has one in black but doesn't end for 4 days, need it before then.

This is one of the ones I found, but another site said it wasn't correct.

lsfloden
08-13-2013, 01:44 PM
After not being sure and seeing the online shipping prices for this part I decided to check the dealer.

Part is 19120564 for the Trailblazer EXT, so while some sites say that is not right (Autoplicity) it actually is. Local dealer can have it here tomorrow afternoon for only $310, almost the price after shipping from most of the online places. The light I found on Amazon is a dorman unit with LEDs and not bulbs. It was $94 and should be here this week. Only other thing I need is the bolts which are

4.2 x 1.41 x 10 for the center (light) ones
6 x 1 x 13 for the outer

Now I just need to get that bracket bent back into place.

Bmcmom143
12-03-2013, 02:28 PM
I have a2005 Trailblazer Ext with the same problem. How do I print a copy of the service bulletin to take to the dealer to see if they will honor fixing it?

magicsjohnson
03-24-2014, 11:31 PM
I have a2005 Trailblazer Ext with the same problem. How do I print a copy of the service bulletin to take to the dealer to see if they will honor fixing it?

Control + P.