04 Will NOT Start [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: 04 Will NOT Start


bradt
10-23-2007, 12:26 AM
Hi all, I am new to the site and have a specific Problem. When I put the key into the ignition and turn the key my gauges and all go Hay wire. Turn the key and nothing !

I can not even put it in gear, with the key in the normal position. I step on the brake and the button on the shifter will not go in.

I checked the battery there is 13.2 volts and all the lights, radio etc.. work. I tried boosting it and it was getting 13.8 volts for about 20 minutes. SAME Thing as before, gauges that go haywire.

Is this a potential common problem ?
Is this a possible ignition problem ?

Any suggestions on where to look would be appreciated.

Thanks

BRad

ssmedt
10-23-2007, 02:10 AM
sounds like the ignition switch. i had the same problem with the same symptoms on a 97 blazer; turn the key and light light up but no crank and can't put it into drive, nothing except dash lights and my problem was the ignition switch.

-crash-
10-23-2007, 06:13 AM
just for the asking did you pull your positive post off and inspect ? sometimes those darn things snap ! and look as though they are fine. other than that with also thinking the ignition switch for sure as they are a very common problem with the trailblazers. good luck :crazy:

hingarfi
10-23-2007, 06:38 PM
Hey guys. I have read enough to suspect my ignition switch. Is this a DIY project? If so, is it a major skill project? How about the required PN for 2002 TB EXT.

bradt
10-23-2007, 09:28 PM
Thanks for the answers, I did look at the battery posts as I too have heard of that problem.

I actually switched the battery with my Malibou, this did not fix the problem. Same problem and symtoms.


Brad

superman_79065
10-23-2007, 09:38 PM
How mechanical are you? I did my switch myself, with a little helpful advice from a GM tech. Advice that I now pass on to you, grasshopper. ...

First things first....is the key stuck in the ignition? If so, directly underneath the key cylinder, in the bottom half of the steering collumn cover, you'll notice a small plastic cover with a slot in it. Remove this cover carefully with a screwdriver or pocketknife and set it somewhere you won't lose it. Inside the hole you've just uncovered is a metal button that when pushed with a pen or small screwdriver will release the key from the cylinder.

Now remove the screws that hold the upper and lower halves of the steering collumn cover together. The cover is also held together with some plastic slots and clips that are molded into the covers themselves, so be careful not to break these off. With the cover removed, you can see the screws that hold the switch to the cylinder. I believe these are torx head screws, but not theft-proof.

Now, the trick is making sure the new switch is in the same position as the old on when you replace them. There is an internal gear in the switch that is slightly exposed and meshes with a gear in the ignition cylinder. If the new switch is in a different position then the switch you took out, this makes for many headaches and much cursing of Gm and electricity in general. According to the GM tech I talked to, the switches are supposed to ship in the "off" position. So, theoretically, an unopened switch from the dealer should be in the "off" position. Making sure you'r key is in the off positon on the switch before removing the old switch should ensure that you don't have any problems being out of position.

TBlazeruss44
10-24-2007, 08:19 PM
I'm not trying to break balls or anything, but should you,as a precaution, disconnect the negative battery terminal first-before starting this type of DIY project? :undecided

superman_79065
10-24-2007, 08:29 PM
I'm not trying to break balls or anything, but should you,as a precaution, disconnect the negative battery terminal first-before starting this type of DIY project? :undecided



Absolutely right....sorry I left that out. Basically, you should disconnect your neg cable before attempting ANY electrical repair on these vehicles....

Remind me to tell you all the story about me shorting out my XM and disabling my TB for a few days sometime....

ThEx CoNvOy x07
10-24-2007, 09:08 PM
sounds like the ignition switch. i had the same problem with the same symptoms on a 97 blazer; turn the key and light light up but no crank and can't put it into drive, nothing except dash lights and my problem was the ignition switch.

I agree:yes:

bradt
10-24-2007, 09:14 PM
I'm not trying to break balls or anything, but should you,as a precaution, disconnect the negative battery terminal first-before starting this type of DIY project? :undecided

Good point, When you get all excited to jump in there you forget these simple things

Thanks

Brad

hingarfi
10-25-2007, 12:51 PM
Thanks all. I have a few more checks to make before I give the ignition switch the heave-ho. Is the special tool mentioned really required to remove the switch?

superman_79065
10-25-2007, 01:24 PM
Thanks all. I have a few more checks to make before I give the ignition switch the heave-ho. Is the special tool mentioned really required to remove the switch?



What special tool? I did mine with simple hand tools. The only thing "special" is a TORX driver......I believe it is a T-25 or T-20......and those can be found at any decent parts store for cheap.....a whole set of common drivers is like 10 bucks. and if you don't want a set of drivers, just buy the bits and use them in your own driver.

hingarfi
10-26-2007, 01:11 PM
What special tool? I did mine with simple hand tools. The only thing "special" is a TORX driver......I believe it is a T-25 or T-20......and those can be found at any decent parts store for cheap.....a whole set of common drivers is like 10 bucks. and if you don't want a set of drivers, just buy the bits and use them in your own driver.

I guess I read somewhere that J-42759 was required. The post quoted below agrees with your experience. The J-42759 is not really needed. Thanks again.
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1slodubb
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post Aug 11 2007, 06:14 PM
Post #5


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QUOTE
Where can I get the J 42759 Ignition Switch Connector Release Tool???? I cant find it anywhere! banghead.gif


Just for other users that come across this post it's pretty easy to remove the ignition switch without resorting to purchasing that tool, just use a pair of small screwdrivers to release the snap connectors that hold the switch. I did it today in a Yukon XL which called for the same tool in the factory service manual. However, if you insist on getting one, I've seen them on online auction sites for roughly $20.00 shipped.

This post has been edited by 1slodubb: Aug 11 2007, 06:18 PM

bradt
10-31-2007, 11:30 PM
What special tool? I did mine with simple hand tools. The only thing "special" is a TORX driver......I believe it is a T-25 or T-20......and those can be found at any decent parts store for cheap.....a whole set of common drivers is like 10 bucks. and if you don't want a set of drivers, just buy the bits and use them in your own driver.

I never needed a toex on mine. It was sort of an inveted torx for the top cover, and I used a small 6 point socket as it was not tight.

No special tool required. A small screwdriver pushed the tabs on the switch in and it slipped out.

Brad

mikeyslacker
11-09-2009, 05:14 PM
while working on my 2004 trailblazer the key somehow came out of the ignition with the key turned on all the way without the car running. My friend turned the ignition off without the key. now I can not get the ignition to turn at all. Help!

MAY03LT
11-09-2009, 05:18 PM
Third times a charm.

mikeyslacker
11-10-2009, 12:52 PM
ok solved the ignition problem....only cost $375 for a new ignition, which my friend will be paying for.