opinions on slotted & drilled rotors

[goes211]

Well, as some of you have maybe read in my profile, I've purchased 22's for my 02 LS. They look look great! This might be a coinsidence but after 500 or so miles since I put them on , I think I might need new pads. (My TB has 35,000 miles so it might actually be time.) Should drilled and slotted rotors be installed due to the added weight of the tires and rims? Should I just get heavier-duty pads?
Your opinions matter to me. Thanks!

[goes211]

come on folks... 8 views and no opinions???

[Cmdrrjc]

"Patience, Daniel son...knowledge is gained in due time."

Ok sorry about my karate kid quote, but there are plenty of information all ready posted in the section have you read them My opinion, um...yeah. I am looking into it, and will very soon. I got a Baer brake upgrade for my blazer (S-10) when I put 20's on it. It made a huge difference especially on braking distance. I can't remember if TB/EV have 2 piston caliper or 4, maybe someone else can fill us in, but generally the upgrade are 4 piston caliper which does plently of good for the car. Specifically, more surface area for better braking plus an evenier (if that is a word) wear of the pads. I am not an expert on this matter and plently of other people will add more to this thread but search further in the section. I'm sure you will be better prepared to make your own opinion about your next modification after doing so.

P.S. Get some pictures put in your Gallery we all like to see other TrailVoys!!

[impalajunkie]

i have brand new drilled+slotted rotors and ceramic pads for sale! hit me up if interested or see the For Sale section

[goes211]

CDM....I'm trying to put pics in my gallery but after I submit, nothing happens after the upload. I'm trying to load them from my documents,

[HellHawk]

Cross drilled and slotted rotors for the most part just for looks. The only time that they are good is in heavy rain. Modern brake pads do not outgas so the need for slots or drilled holes is not there. Of course that being said, putting 22's on a truck is really for looks also, so find some nice cross drilled/slotted rotors that fit your taste, the thing that really makes a difference is the pad material. I've only seen a couple of "Big Brake" kits one is Stainless Steel Brake Corp. (SSBC) and they want some buckage for those kits. Brembo has a "Gran Turismo" setup also (more big buckage).

[Dave]

Larger rotors may be the best thing for the TB/EN. I think the SS are "large 12.8 disks" which are small to what my CTS V had (14.0/14.4). But bigger rotors/calipers add unsprung weight so I personally think a good set of pads is the best upgrade. The drilled rotors do look nice though and supposedly help with the warping problems some TB/EN are known to have.

[jimmyjam]

yeah I just got drilled & slotted because they were zinc coated and the factory rotors are all rusty on the edges.

Does anyone know why you'd buy adonized rotors? won't the pad contact area just turn silver eventually?

[my-tb]

Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that you can "turn" the slotted but you can NOT "turn" the cross drilled.

[jimmyjam]

I think you can turn them. I'm pretty sure the problem is that you don't want turn them too thin or else you run the risk of getting fractures through the drilled holes, possibly cracking the entire rotor, which would be pretty catastrophic at high speed.

[zamar]

Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that you can "turn" the slotted but you can NOT "turn" the cross drilled. That would be my concern about these. Can they be resurfaced? What is the extra cost to resurface? What risks are involved in trashing these when turned. Other than, functionaillity wise, they are a complete waste of money for 99.9% of TV owners. Hundreds of $$ to hang another mod on your sig. My TB has very functional brakes from the factory. Even when towing my boat.

Unless your name is Earnhardt have your factory rotors turned if possible and buy some good pads. :m2:

[ScarabEpic22]

That would be my concern about these. Can they be resurfaced? What is the extra cost to resurface? What risks are involved in trashing these when turned. Other than, functionaillity wise, they are a complete waste of money for 99.9% of TV owners. Hundreds of $$ to hang another mod on your sig. My TB has very functional brakes from the factory. Even when towing my boat.

Unless your name is Earnhardt have your factory rotors turned if possible and buy some good pads. :m2:
Yeah, I wondered about this too. I have begun to tow more and more the past few years, and was worried about the brakes. But, since the TB has 4 piston brakes in the front (2 pistons on each side of the rotor), the brakes have been doing fine. But, if there could be problems in the future with the cross-drilled/slotted rotors, I wont be getting them.

Anyone with the cross-drilled/slotted rotors and a Hawk pad towed anything yet (more than 3K lbs)?

[HellHawk]

Yeah, I wondered about this too. I have begun to tow more and more the past few years, and was worried about the brakes. But, since the TB has 4 piston brakes in the front (2 pistons on each side of the rotor), the brakes have been doing fine. But, if there could be problems in the future with the cross-drilled/slotted rotors, I wont be getting them.

Anyone with the cross-drilled/slotted rotors and a Hawk pad towed anything yet (more than 3K lbs)?

Actually, the front brakes are only 2 piston calipers on floating pins (just like the C5 Corvette's, F-Bodies, etc..). But I digress, the factory brakes on the TV's are more than adequate for most people. I have run the slotted rotors on my Firehawk, and they did fine (it was when I had the 98+ swap done). I have the cross drilled on my wife's Camaro and did notice a couple of stress cracks on the radii, but nothing to be concerned about. When I take the Hawk to the track for some road course action, I switch my rotors our for solid faced blanks.

[ScarabEpic22]

Actually, the front brakes are only 2 piston calipers on floating pins (just like the C5 Corvette's, F-Bodies, etc..). But I digress, the factory brakes on the TV's are more than adequate for most people. I have run the slotted rotors on my Firehawk, and they did fine (it was when I had the 98+ swap done). I have the cross drilled on my wife's Camaro and did notice a couple of stress cracks on the radii, but nothing to be concerned about. When I take the Hawk to the track for some road course action, I switch my rotors our for solid faced blanks.
Thanks, that was what I was thinking, but said it wrong when I typed it, 2 pistons.:duh:

Also thanks for the insight on the rotors, I have been thinking about what I am going to do and am waiting for some more long-term impact on the cross-drilled/slotted ones before I get a set.

[goes211]

Thanks guys for all of your help. I belive I will shop the web for better pads unless any of you want to make some suggestions.

[Cmdrrjc]

1-888-634-2499 or email to sales@eliteparts.com. Check them out maybe they can help you with the pads, they also sell on ebay. The company's name is 935.

[djkenace]

any recommended brands for slotted or drilled rotors? and any brand of brake pads?

[Spaceaddict]

I was told that Cross Drilled and Sotted Rotors can NOT be re-surfaced. but I am not sure you can consider them a waste of money. Ever since I upgraded from stock wheels to 22s, my braking is not the same as it used to be. People who know say that if you get wheels 20in or higher you should compensate with a brake upgrade. :m2:

[TBSS]

Slotted and/or drilled rotors are a waste unless you increase the size of the rotor at the same time. Actually, since you remove surface area by slotting or drilling, you are making the braking less effective than if you kept the stock rotors (I believe GM uses Brembo blanks for their rotors, so you can hardly do better than GM OEM rotors on your vehicle).

As far as pads, I would recommend Hawk HPS (High Performance Street) pads, HB382F.657 for the front and HB383F.685 for the rear. They're a good compromise between performance and cost. Be prepared for a little brake dust.

[Envoy Fan]

Ever since I upgraded from stock wheels to 22s, my braking is not the same as it used to be. People who know say that if you get wheels 20in or higher you should compensate with a brake upgrade. :m2:

:iagree:

[jimmyjam]

I'd definately recommend good pads over rotors. but man-o-man, drilled and slotted rotors look sooo cool! I've got lots of compliments just this weekend.

I don't know about the rest of you but my factory rotors were covered in rust around the perimeter. looked horrible. its really the only reason I swapped them out.

[goes211]

Thanks guys for all of your help. I'm going w/ceramic pads. From what I've read online, this may be a good choice. I've also found a kit that strips the rotors clean so they can be painted. Paint included.

[TBSS]

I will preface this with the fact that I know very little about brake pads specifically, and/or brakes in general.

That being said, I would be careful going with certain ceramic pads. Depending on the compound, it can take a while for ceramic pads to heat up enough so they will grip and stop your vehicle. This means that for the first 3-4 stops, they don't actually stop. Like I said, though, this can depend on the compound.

The other thing to take into consideration is the idea that many pads are matched to rotors, and vice-versa. This means that if you put ceramic pads on a rotor meant to work with organic pads, you could end up with issues...from a minor one (like abnormal wear and rotor warping), to safety issues (related to stopping). :eek:

Like I said, I know very little about brakes, but I do know that you can't just go slapping any pads on your OEM rotors and expect them to work properly. Just be careful and make sure you do your research before you make your decision. :D

[goes211]

TBSS. About you recomendation for the HAWK HPS'S, I've never had a issue with break dust. As a matter of fact, I detail my TB every Saturday morning and don't have to put much effort into the wheels (mild soap, soft cloth, very little elbow grease). My neighbor on the other hand....has a 03 navigator and after he washes his truck, he can only drive for a day and his chrome looks sooty[sic]. This isn't something I want to deal with personally. So when you say little dust, do you mean more than factory pads? Do ceramics give off as much dust? If not, how much do you think it would cost for ceramics and rotors? Thanks for all of your pad swapping info, it's valuable to me.

[TBSS]

Most performance-oriented pads will give off more dust than OEM pads. Just look at the front wheels of most BMW vehicles and you will see what performance pads can do. Hawk HPS pads give off more dust than OEM pads, but less than many others. This is a trade-off for a little better stopping.

Can't speak to the ceramic pads or ceramic pad/rotor combinations, someone else will have to pipe in on that.

[tblazin18]

so then should i not buy new drilled/slotted, rotors? i have 22's and need to do something about my braking. should i just buy new upgraded pads? and what are the options?

[TBSS]

so then should i not buy new drilled/slotted, rotors? i have 22's and need to do something about my braking. should i just buy new upgraded pads? and what are the options?
The best thing you can do for a reasonable amount of money for brake performance and feel is:
1) Upgrade your brake pads
2) Add stainless steel brake lines
3) Replace fluid with ATE SuperBlue/TYP200

The upgraded pads will make your braking more effective, the stainless lines will decrease/eliminate brake line swelling (which will give the pedal a better feel, possibly decreasing brake application time), and the ATE fluid will ensure that hard braking or hot summers do not destroy your fluid (ATE has a very high boiling point).

Other than that, if you want more performance, you need to upgrade the entire braking system - calipers, pads, larger diameter rotors, etc. You're looking at $1500-$3000 or more for a good system.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock do absolutely nothing for braking performance, they are a cosmetic upgrade only. Actually, they will probably increase your braking distance and decrease actual performance.

[goes211]

Thanks again for your help. I've always wondered why all of the nice sports cars that I can't afford always have such nasty looking rims. I thought that the people were just lazy.:rotfl: I would hate to have to shine my rims everyday.

[tblazin18]

The best thing you can do for a reasonable amount of money for brake performance and feel is:
1) Upgrade your brake pads
2) Add stainless steel brake lines
3) Replace fluid with ATE SuperBlue/TYP200

The upgraded pads will make your braking more effective, the stainless lines will decrease/eliminate brake line swelling (which will give the pedal a better feel, possibly decreasing brake application time), and the ATE fluid will ensure that hard braking or hot summers do not destroy your fluid (ATE has a very high boiling point).

Other than that, if you want more performance, you need to upgrade the entire braking system - calipers, pads, larger diameter rotors, etc. You're looking at $1500-$3000 or more for a good system.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock do absolutely nothing for braking performance, they are a cosmetic upgrade only. Actually, they will probably increase your braking distance and decrease actual performance.

what are the best brake pads for use with 22's?

[TBSS]

what are the best brake pads for use with 22's?
For stock rotors I've heard from numerous people that the Hawk HPS pads work very well. I don't have experience (or know of anyone who does) with pads other than the Hawks on stock GM rotors. Hopefully people with experience with other pads will chime in.

[twogrenades]

Talking about Hawk pads for the OEM rotors. Does anyone know what the difference is between the Hawk HPS pads and the Hawk LTS pads? I will be getting my rotors resurfaced and wanted to get the pads for increased braking performance. The website doesn't make it clear what sort of differences there are between the two other than that the LTS is designed for trucks and SUVs even though they make an HPS pad for the trailvoy. I sent an email asking this question to Hawk Performance and am waiting for a reply but hopefully someone already knows. Thank for any help, Carlos

[bully712]

I don't know about the rest of you but my factory rotors were covered in rust around the perimeter. looked horrible. its really the only reason I swapped them out. I apologize for bringing this subject back if there was another thread with advise, but I searched without result. I agree with Jimmy. After putting my 20's on this weekend, I noticed the rust, and it's hidious. Actually my braking doesn't feel any different then when I had my 16's on. Maybe because I put a little better pads on when I bought my TB. Anyways, my question is more towards the Rotors. I read just about everything dealing with Slotted/ Drilled Rotors. I've heard from other places that slotted are better then drilled due to stress cracking. I'm looking for looks, but not the slotted or drilled. I just want to get rid of the RUST. What is a good OEM style Rotor that will not rust? Is there a special coating I should be looking for?

[teezee1000]

Im in the same boat as bully. i just put brand new OEM rotors on my truck 2 months ago and put my 20s on a week ago and the rust around the inner ring of the rotors looks bad... I just ordered some power slot rotors and hawk LTS brake pads.

[bully712]

Im in the same boat as bully. i just put brand new OEM rotors on my truck 2 months ago and put my 20s on a week ago and the rust around the inner ring of the rotors looks bad... I just ordered some power slot rotors and hawk LTS brake pads. Yeah I looked at those ones, but while reading another thread, one guy bought a set off Ebay, that had a ZSink coating on them that will not rust. It's around $200 for all four. I PM'd him to see how they are holding up, and I'm just going to wait until he responds. I just need something, cause that rust is horrible looking.

[teezee1000]

Yea I need new front brakes and rotors about 6 months ago, So I just wanted to get something on before I rear end somebody :duh: . 4 rotors for $200, thats a very good price.

[greythunder]

I paid $200 shipped for mine and they look sweet!!!

[teezee1000]

Well I cancelled my order for the brakes and rotors (they are on backorder) Where are you guys finding the 4 rotors for $200? Any recommendations for premium brake pads I should use?

[bully712]

Well I cancelled my order for the brakes and rotors (they are on backorder) Where are you guys finding the 4 rotors for $200? Any recommendations for premium brake pads I should use?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Trailblazer-Bravada-02-05-Drill-Slot-F-R-ROTORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQitemZ8051 467172QQtcZphoto

[sdhsg]

Put slotted rotors on my daughters 99 Malibu, with ceramic bake pads. Car stops really well but rotors are a bit noisy. :m2:

[jimmyjam]

i have s/d rotors on my tb and ceramic pads and no noise whatsoever. did you use anti-squeal compound when you put the pads on?