Envoy cranks but won't start [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: Envoy cranks but won't start


rjbuser
08-24-2008, 03:12 PM
Hello everyone! I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have an 05 Denali XL with 36,000mi and I am having an intermittent problem getting the envoy started. The envoy will crank but it won't start right away. Usually we have to try cranking it 5 or 6 times before it finally decides to start. On average it will do this at least once a day when starting the vehicle. Once it does start it usually stumbles for a little bit before it runs smooth, but I just chalked that up to excess fuel from cranking so much. I have had it to the dealer several time and these are the items they have replaced so far:

1. Fuel Pump
2. Oil Filter (don't even ask about this one)
3. Cleaned throttle body and injectors

At this point I think the dealer is scratching their head. Has anyone experienced the same or have any insight as to what would be causing it not to start. I've read alot on here about the ignition switch going bad, but it seems like it wouldn't even crank if that were the case. Thanks in advance.

Jason

the roadie
08-24-2008, 03:44 PM
The ignition switch can indeed kill the "run" circuit while allowing it to crank. The dealer should be well aware of the high failure rate on these cheap items.

Your dealer is scratching his butt with his head - from the inside! :woot:

There are a lot of other possible causes, like intermittent opens in the wiring elsewhere or the PCM, but the ignition switch is probably going to be the consensus on trailvoy for the culprit.

Then you can tell your dealer they should be reading trailvoy forums instead of ignoring their TSBs. :cool:

ssmedt
08-24-2008, 04:25 PM
Your dealer is scratching his butt with his head - from the inside! :woot:
. :cool:

:dielaugh:

but i agree with Rodie, i would have thought that your dealer woudl have already tried the ignition switch but that could cause the problem, on my little bro's blazer when his igintion switch went we just kept trying turning the key and eventually we got it to crank and to the dealer.

pjaneiro
08-24-2008, 04:50 PM
Hello everyone! I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have an 05 Denali XL with 36,000mi and I am having an intermittent problem getting the envoy started. The envoy will crank but it won't start right away. Usually we have to try cranking it 5 or 6 times before it finally decides to start. On average it will do this at least once a day when starting the vehicle. Once it does start it usually stumbles for a little bit before it runs smooth, but I just chalked that up to excess fuel from cranking so much. I have had it to the dealer several time and these are the items they have replaced so far:

1. Fuel Pump
2. Oil Filter (don't even ask about this one)
3. Cleaned throttle body and injectors

At this point I think the dealer is scratching their head. Has anyone experienced the same or have any insight as to what would be causing it not to start. I've read alot on here about the ignition switch going bad, but it seems like it wouldn't even crank if that were the case. Thanks in advance.

Jason


OMG !!!!!!!

I just went teh same ordeal, in the end i ended up fixing the damn thing myself, It seems, and i have proof, that the fuse box under the hood after some intensive rattling and bump can become loose, just for the heck of it, take out the relay for the fuel pump, get some thin hard wire (phone wire) drop a wire in each hole, be carefull so they don't touch, re-insert the relay, you might need to fore it a bit, and start the truck, it "MIGHT" help you...i also found out that the harness underneath my fuel pump was getting severly damage, so i replaced al the wires and added some new tubing...

RayVoy
08-24-2008, 07:21 PM
You need 3 things to start the engine:
Air
Spark
Fuel
The air of course comes through the air filter, if it's clean the air is probably ok.
The spark need 12 volts at the coils, this comes from the ignition switch (as suggested above), these have a high failure rate. But, usually something else, that requires "key on", won't work as well. Check all things that need "key on" to see if they are working.
Fuel, needs a pump and a clean filter. If all of the above seem to be ok, you probably need a new pump. Turn on the key, don't try to crank the engine, listen for the pump running (from the rear, under the truck, it's in the tank). The pump should run for a few seconds and shut off when the pressure reaches the cut off point.
If the pump runs, it might still be fuel. You should check the fuel filter. Some years have an external filter, others have the filter in the tank.
It's a good idea to fill out the USER CP (your profile info) when you join, if the truck info is provided, we could tell you where to look for the filter.

BTW, welcome to the site.

rjbuser
08-24-2008, 10:56 PM
Thanks for all the suggestions. I also completed my profile.

One other thing I forgot to mention is that sometimes when it is cranking for a long time I can release the key and it continues to crank on its own until it fires. I of course informed the dealer of this and they tried to tell me that it is designed to work that way. :rolleyes:

I'll have to see if I can get the dealer to look into the ignition switch. Thanks for all the advice.

petevw
08-24-2008, 11:05 PM
....One other thing I forgot to mention is that sometimes when it is cranking for a long time I can release the key and it continues to crank on its own until it fires. I of course informed the dealer of this and they tried to tell me that it is designed to work that way. :rolleyes:


They said WHAT??? OK, the first thing you need to do is get to a different dealer/service dept. The starter motor is designed to stop as soon as you let go of the key.....period.

If there is a vehicle that works the way the dealer told you, I wish someone would tell me.....I have NEVER heard that before.

IMO, it sure sounds like the ignition switch to me.

the roadie
08-24-2008, 11:58 PM
... I can release the key and it continues to crank on its own until it fires. I of course informed the dealer of this and they tried to tell me that it is designed to work that way. :rolleyes:On that point, they're right! You can blip the key for the shortest time, and it will continue the process. It really annoys me now in rental cars when I have to hold the stupid switch in until it catches.
...The starter motor is designed to stop as soon as you let go of the key.....period.

If there is a vehicle that works the way the dealer told you, I wish someone would tell me.....I have NEVER heard that before.Hi! My 2004 works that way. Guaranteed. It's unusual, to be sure, but I'd be shocked if that didn't start with 2002. Try very short blips and you can notice the effect.

Super 88
08-25-2008, 12:15 AM
:iagree:
I remember reading a while back they started that feature (of the engine continuing to crank after you release the key) because THEY said too many people were trying to start these things with the engine running. According to GM, the engines ran so quiet and idled so smooth that people thought the engine had stalled. I think they started it in 2003 or 2004 - don't know for sure about the date - I'm only guessing. Roadie may be right it could have 2002.

I know my 05 has done that from day 1 - as has ALL the many vehicles of this platform that I've rented. (TBs, Envoys and the one Buick Rainer).

the roadie
08-25-2008, 12:23 AM
... people thought the engine had stalled. ...Hehe. People who don't realize they have a tach staring them in the face ALL the time. :D

Super 88
08-25-2008, 12:33 AM
Hehe. People who don't realize they have a tach staring them in the face ALL the time. :D

Exactly! I was thinking that but forget to mention it.

You were right Roadie it was 2002. Everyone check out this article from Motortrend:

" GM started with a brand-new, lightweight (407-lb) aluminum block with cast-iron cylinder sleeves and high-compression (10.0:1) pistons, attached an aluminum DOHC head with roller/follower cam actuation and variable timing on the exhaust valve overlap, fitted each spark plug with its own coil, and controls it all with a powerful new electronic powertrain control module and throttle-by-wire system. This sounds like it could come right out of a BMW, doesn't it? The engine not only produces some high-revving horses, but also makes 90 percent of its 275 lb-ft of torque from 1600 to 5600 rpm. And it's so quiet and smooth-running, GM's engineers made the ignition key's start mode inoperable, while the engine is running to avoid burning out the starter motor and damaging the flywheel teeth.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/2001/112_0106_2002_ford_explorer_vs_2002_cheverolet_tra ilblazer/index.html

rjbuser
08-29-2008, 12:09 PM
Hello everyone! I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have an 05 Denali XL with 36,000mi and I am having an intermittent problem getting the envoy started. The envoy will crank but it won't start right away. Usually we have to try cranking it 5 or 6 times before it finally decides to start. On average it will do this at least once a day when starting the vehicle. Once it does start it usually stumbles for a little bit before it runs smooth, but I just chalked that up to excess fuel from cranking so much. I have had it to the dealer several time and these are the items they have replaced so far:

1. Fuel Pump
2. Oil Filter (don't even ask about this one)
3. Cleaned throttle body and injectors

At this point I think the dealer is scratching their head. Has anyone experienced the same or have any insight as to what would be causing it not to start. I've read alot on here about the ignition switch going bad, but it seems like it wouldn't even crank if that were the case. Thanks in advance.

Jason


Update: The dealer finally decided to replace the ignition switch after talking to technical assistance. Unfortunately, this does not appear to have fixed the problem either. :confused: In fact, when picking it up from the dealer we got in start it and it took a couple of tries cranking it before it started. I needed the vehicle, so we took it for the weekend to see what happens. So far it has cranked excessively 3 or 4 times before eventually starting. Next time it does it I think I'm going to mess with the relays and see if that helps any. Any other ideas out there since the ignition switch didn't do the trick?

Thanks
Jason

Ray Dockrey
08-29-2008, 01:18 PM
This is just thinking out loud so bare with me. Did they replace the fuel filter when the replaced the pump? I would hope they would but this is a dealership we are talking about. If the fuel filter is partially clogged then it may take a while to prime the system. This would be why it would only do it occasionally. Maybe after it set a while or whatever. Now you would think if it was plugged like that it would have issues running or would set some kind of code but like I said I am just thinking out loud.

rjbuser
08-29-2008, 01:29 PM
I am not sure if the filter was replaced when the pump was or not. I know the ticket stated that the part was a fuel pump kit, so I don't know if the filter was part of the kit or not. I may give them a call to find out if they did or not.

Super 88
08-29-2008, 02:05 PM
This is just thinking out loud so bare with me. Did they replace the fuel filter when the replaced the pump? I would hope they would but this is a dealership we are talking about. If the fuel filter is partially clogged then it may take a while to prime the system. This would be why it would only do it occasionally. Maybe after it set a while or whatever. Now you would think if it was plugged like that it would have issues running or would set some kind of code but like I said I am just thinking out loud.

Does the 05 5.3 have a fuel filter? From 05 on the I6 engines do NOT have an external fuel filter. The filter on 05+ is the "sock" on the fuel pump assembly.

Ray Dockrey
08-29-2008, 02:12 PM
I thought it was an actual replaceable filter in the tank. Again, I was just searching for ideas and I am still learning the Trailblazer so I could be wrong.

Ray Dockrey
08-29-2008, 02:17 PM
Okay, when I did a Google search this came up showing that the 2005 actually had an external filter. Did it change mid year?

http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/chevrolettrailblazer20022005framahg93441.html

All the other hits I got shows it external also.

RayVoy
08-29-2008, 03:30 PM
Fuel filters are notorious for causing fuel starvation. But, this usually occurs are road speeds or higher. Generally, a dirty filter will let the truck start. It sounds to me like a flooding problem or a bleed down problem.
Try turning the key on and listen for the pump. It should run for a couple of seconds, if it runs longer than that, you could be loosing fuel pressure in the lines. Note, this is hard to tell with your ear.
One thing that could cause both of these problems is an injector that is leaking.
To test, you need to connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail (there is a port for this purpose).
Sometimes the injectors can be cleaned, sometimes they need to be replaced.

Super 88
08-29-2008, 05:04 PM
Okay, when I did a Google search this came up showing that the 2005 actually had an external filter. Did it change mid year?

http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/chevrolettrailblazer20022005framahg93441.html

All the other hits I got shows it external also.

Many of the parts guides are wrong. We have discussed this a lot on this forum over the last 3 years or so. I have an 05 EXT with the I6 - it was made in November 04.
I crawled under this thing and checked - there is NO external filter. They changed the design in 05 on. A member who used to post here and has a pretty good knowledge of cars in general stated:

"2005+ 4.2's have pretty much a completely different fuel system than 2002-2004's. 2005+ use a variable speed fuel pump with no return line and no fuel pressure regulator. I believe they call it a 'pulse width modulated' fuel pump where the PCM regulates the voltage to the pump based on engine load. With different plumbing and hardware, I'd have to say the filter is different as well and probably in the tank somewhere"

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=15960&highlight=fuel+filter

As has been pointed out in other posts - even some of the owner's manuals are wrong. My cousin (who has the same year TB I do) noticed it first. The manual said to change it every 25,000 miles. :weird:

The easy way to tell if you have the "new" system or not is to check and see if you have a fuel pressure regulator under the hood.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost.php?p=208549&postcount=21

pjaneiro
08-29-2008, 06:06 PM
Did you try the relay connector, i assure you I HAD THE SAME SYMPTOMS, they tried everything, fuel filter fuel pump when they started saying it was teh ignition switch i just laughed and left, after taking the the fuel thank apart and following the fuel connector wires with a tracert i saw that some pins of teh relay were becoming loose

just try it....add a longer lenght of wire to the fuel pump relay and squeeze it in, if it works you will know it's the fuse box connectors

rjbuser
09-01-2008, 10:31 PM
Did you try the relay connector, i assure you I HAD THE SAME SYMPTOMS, they tried everything, fuel filter fuel pump when they started saying it was teh ignition switch i just laughed and left, after taking the the fuel thank apart and following the fuel connector wires with a tracert i saw that some pins of teh relay were becoming loose

just try it....add a longer lenght of wire to the fuel pump relay and squeeze it in, if it works you will know it's the fuse box connectors


the last time it did it I did mess with the fuel pump relay but I didn't add any wire to it. I'm not sure if I know where you added the wire too. Do you mean to put some wire over the end of the pin so that it is on both sides of the pin and push it back in the fuse box?

Another question for you, when yours did start after cranking did it run rough for a minute before smoothing out? Mine runs rough and blows a fair amount of white smoke which makes me think it's getting fuel when it's cranking.

Thanks

pjaneiro
09-01-2008, 10:36 PM
the last time it did it I did mess with the fuel pump relay but I didn't add any wire to it. I'm not sure if I know where you added the wire too. Do you mean to put some wire over the end of the pin so that it is on both sides of the pin and push it back in the fuse box?

Another question for you, when yours did start after cranking did it run rough for a minute before smoothing out? Mine runs rough and blows a fair amount of white smoke which makes me think it's getting fuel when it's cranking.

Thanks

That's exactly it, just add the wire between so you have "enough" contact between the connector and the fuse box, for the white smoke, when it "wanted" to start i did have white smoke for a few moments, then it was dying as the pump was not holding it power stable enough,

i hope you get it going, i know i was mad as hell when the thing would'nt move and the dealer did'nt know ****...

rjbuser
09-01-2008, 10:46 PM
thanks I will give that a try the next time it fails on me. tell me about it, I am so fed up with that thing. one time it starts fine and the next time it takes me 5 min to get the darn thing started. Not to mention dealing with the stupid dealer.

did you just end up leaving the wire in yours? what would be the permanent fix, replace the entire fuse panel?

I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks again

Ray Dockrey
09-01-2008, 11:51 PM
I was discussing this with my Dad and he had an idea. First thing he thought of was that it was either the oil pump or the oil pressure switch. His theory was it is slow to build pressure and the computer won't let the engine start until it builds sufficient pressure. This is a fail safe so if you lose pressure it will kill the engine before the engine fails. The reason the dealer changed the oil filter he suspects is that AC Delco on most of their filters have an anti-drainback valve. If a filter was installed without the valve then it will allow oil to drainback from the top end and cause an oil starvation until pressure is built backup. He works at Autozone and while I know a lot of you guys don't think to highly of Autozone he is pretty good when it comes to this stuff. He was telling me that when you pull the part number up for an AC Delco oil filter the system will ask you with or without anti-drainback valve. Again we may be way off but just trying to give some help.

pjaneiro
09-02-2008, 12:08 AM
thanks I will give that a try the next time it fails on me. tell me about it, I am so fed up with that thing. one time it starts fine and the next time it takes me 5 min to get the darn thing started. Not to mention dealing with the stupid dealer.

did you just end up leaving the wire in yours? what would be the permanent fix, replace the entire fuse panel?

I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks again

The permanent fix would be either to disasemble the fuse block and push back the pins into their respective sockets, or then again replace the assemble with the new part number with tighter smaller conectors, the new boxes have a bigger clamp on them with retainers on their back, i guess gm realised that putting the fuse box right on top of the shock could in then get loosen up with all those vibrations...

quirino18
09-02-2008, 01:57 PM
:thumbsup:whatsup guy!!

well here someone made a comment which is the main things you need to fire-up a motor,
1-)gas
2-)fire
3-)oxigen (air)

how to check the gas? the line has a valve close to the motor where you check the pressure in the line, when you try to start it and it doesnt start it could be that something related to the pump is not woking properly not enough pressure, for this you need a pressure tester (gage) if you have enough pressure but it goes down while you try to start it the filter may be dirty, if no pressure at all it could be the pump,relay,electrical or even a broken hose from the tank to the pump if external pump it coul be taking air before it gets any gas (pressure gage will help you figuring out this)..
2-) take a screw driver and put it in the spark plug wire and get it close to the metal while cranking it to check for spark if no spark youre in some deep sh!@#$ it could be many things,ignition switch,brain,fuse,relay,broken wire, etc. but i dont think any of this is the case because it turns on after a while, i think it may be the pressure issue! (you crank for a while and you built pressure until it turns on you follow me?) one more reason you wont get spark is the cranking sensor fail!!!! it make the computer think the motor is not turning therfore it doesnt need power and wont send any!! crank sensors act like that at time they work fine then it just wont respond until you try a few times.. normally runing it wont turn off because the engine is runing at a higher rpm than when you try to start and it allows it to detect it while runing.. has it ever tunr off on you while runing?
3-) is less likely to be the cause because it'll turn on still but shaking alot (try to open the throtle valve manually to allow some air to reach the combustion chamber.. is this was the problem a code should have been crated in diagnostic (engine service soon):thumbsup:


if the pump doesnt work use a multy meter to check for power reaching the pump before you replace the pump!!

the roadie
09-02-2008, 03:39 PM
2-) take a screw driver and put it in the spark plug wire and get it close to the metal while cranking it :x Maybe on a car that actually HAD plug wires. Have you looked under your hood lately to see that we have no distributor or plug wires? :(..try to open the throtle valve manually to allow some air to reach the combustion chamber.. If you do this you can destroy the valve actuator. The shop manual is filled with dire warnings about pushing on the butterfly when the power is on.

Please learn more about the special requirements of the trailvoys before giving advice that could cost people hundreds of $$$. :no: :sadcry:

Super 88
09-02-2008, 06:56 PM
:thumbsup:whatsup guy!!

well here someone made a comment which is the main things you need to fire-up a motor,
1-)gas
2-)fire
3-)oxigen (air)



In addition to what Roadie said, you actually need:

1): Fuel (which in this case is gasoline)
2): "Fire" would be spark
3): While it's true you need "oxigen" (sic) just having air in the cylinder is not enough. You have to have compression of the air/fuel mixture.

People always seem to forget about number 3. If you have little or no compression, all the fuel and spark in the world doesn't matter - that cylinder is NOT going to fire properly if at all! :bonk:

quirino18
09-02-2008, 07:43 PM
:x Maybe on a car that actually HAD plug wires. Have you looked under your hood lately to see that we have no distributor or plug wires? :(If you do this you can destroy the valve actuator. The shop manual is filled with dire warnings about pushing on the butterfly when the power is on.

Please learn more about the special requirements of the trailvoys before giving advice that could cost people hundreds of $$$. :no: :sadcry:

what could hapen if you make a spark from the coil to the metal not touching the metal dough? isnt the plug making ground to the metal it self? thank you!!:raspberry

i know it has coils on every plug and thats what i ment and you can check it using a multy meter done it my self , regarding the butterfly for the air intake i didnt mean to open it all the way or force it! it has a little play not forcing it which is what i actualy was talking about as you need very little air to start it! on top of that the sensor has to be disconnected so it wont get damage now on this you may be right i have to agree the actuator mechanism may get damage if is forced no questions asked however you can remove the actuator and do it with out it!!!

i hope no ofence is taken by anyone!!:tiphat

quirino18
09-02-2008, 09:15 PM
thanks I will give that a try the next time it fails on me. tell me about it, I am so fed up with that thing. one time it starts fine and the next time it takes me 5 min to get the darn thing started. Not to mention dealing with the stupid dealer.

did you just end up leaving the wire in yours? what would be the permanent fix, replace the entire fuse panel?

I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks again

exuse my question but am assuming the dealer is getting some kind of faulty code arent they? if so do you hapen to know what it was? (definition) i have a feeling is going to be the crank sensor

rjbuser
09-02-2008, 11:09 PM
exuse my question but am assuming the dealer is getting some kind of faulty code arent they? if so do you hapen to know what it was? (definition) i have a feeling is going to be the crank sensor

no, the dealer is not getting any codes whatsoever. That's part of the problem, because they don't know where to look for the problem.

pjaneiro
09-03-2008, 12:13 AM
exuse my question but am assuming the dealer is getting some kind of faulty code arent they? if so do you hapen to know what it was? (definition) i have a feeling is going to be the crank sensor

The onboard diagnostic computer on the tb is as useless as a popsicle salesman in antartica, seriously NOT ONCE did my tb ever throwed a code concerning the fuse box, as per the onboard diag the tb was fine....

been there, done that, i thought the same thing, but the crank sensor would throw a code on the spot....and would at least let your crank the engine once or twice fully

pjaneiro
09-03-2008, 12:17 AM
what could hapen if you make a spark from the coil to the metal not touching the metal dough? isnt the plug making ground to the metal it self? thank you!!:raspberry

i know it has coils on every plug and thats what i ment and you can check it using a multy meter done it my self , regarding the butterfly for the air intake i didnt mean to open it all the way or force it! it has a little play not forcing it which is what i actualy was talking about as you need very little air to start it! on top of that the sensor has to be disconnected so it wont get damage now on this you may be right i have to agree the actuator mechanism may get damage if is forced no questions asked however you can remove the actuator and do it with out it!!!

i hope no ofence is taken by anyone!!:tiphat


By doing so you would create a surge on the coil, thus eitehr killing it on the spot, or weakening it spark capabilities, it's designed to let a certain amount of current, if you "induce" it into sparking where it's not supposed to, you are killing it, i'm sure some welders would tell you this, it's the same process as an electric welder, if your mesh is too long your are killing the transformer everytime... or if you weld on a non clean surface you are demanding more juice from the tranformer and those babies are not cheap same as the coils...

For the throttle body, if yours has "a little play" i would suggest you change it....mine is stiff "lol" no play and very precise, i clean on a regular basis and at the same time i check for the impedance, just a milimeter will make that thing jump quite a bit, by default if the throttle body is disconnected, the tb willnot start, if it does, you have another problem, i once forgot to plg the throtle cable back in and started the thing, that was the most 10 minutes of frustration i was having, until i plugged my scanner, two codes, one for throlle body out of range and one for not connected...

and if you disconnect it while it on, that may work, but you will be in for a surprise, it closes instantly as the spring are hard, and getting it open properly will land you a nice cut on the fingers if you are not carefull, and then try to explain to the dealer why there's skin,blood and fingers in the intake manifold... (lol)

quirino18
09-05-2008, 01:53 PM
The onboard diagnostic computer on the tb is as useless as a popsicle salesman in antartica, seriously NOT ONCE did my tb ever throwed a code concerning the fuse box, as per the onboard diag the tb was fine....

been there, done that, i thought the same thing, but the crank sensor would throw a code on the spot....and would at least let your crank the engine once or twice fully

the crank sensor allows you to cranck the engine for aslong as you want or the battery dies, but wont allow the computer to see the engine turning (cranking) and youre correct a code should comeup if this was the case however it has to fail when the car is on to be able to record it but it could be that it just fails at low rpm i had a similar problem on my BMW and the code wouldnt come up until it actually fail when the car was fully runing, it turned off on me then i got the code, i was able to still turn on the car and drove it for a few days but i had a hard time starting it but once it started it wouldnt turn off at one point it look like the sensor was good the light went out and came back on!! it'll start fine a few days then it'll star acting up

rjbuser
09-14-2008, 10:57 PM
Just an update to my starting issues. The last thing the dealer replaced was the ignition switch. After picking it up from dealer, had problems starting the vehicle probably 2 or 3 times in the following few days. It has now been about 2 weeks since then and have had no more problems starting vehicle. I guess it decided to just fix itself. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but for right now it appears to be fixed.

m_duggan84
11-07-2008, 10:01 AM
Did that ever solve your problems??? I am having the same problems with my trailblazer.

texasgrand
01-05-2009, 10:01 PM
My TB died during driving and would not start on occasion after that. Took it to the dealer and it would not act up. Would not start while out in the sticks and had it towed to a repair shop. They replaced the fuel pump for $700. The problem continued, so I had the ignition switch replaced. The problem continued, I finaly determined that when I had the problem, the fuel pump was not running (could not hear it when I turn the key on). Replaced the fuel pump relay in the fuse box and it started right up. The next day I had the problem again, unpluged the relay and wiggled it around and it started.

How hard is it to repair or replace the fuse/relay box? Could it be something else?