Please help me confirm that I need a new CV joint.

[steveO]

Pictures attached.
I had a low wheering that I could feel in the wheel, I determined that it was coming from the passenger side , I posted previously about this.

Never replaced one before and wanted to confirm my suspicion that this is the cause of my problem.

Any tips, tricks, advice is appreciated

:thx

[Robert1101]

Normally CV joints will click as they go bad. One click per rev is getting there and 2 clicks means it is time. Again, normally this happens when turning, in reverse or forward. You might have a bad wheel bearing or a dragging brake pad. When you put the vehicle on a jack stand, under the lower arm and spin the wheel can you hear any noise? Do not put the vehicle stand on the frame, you want the weight on the suspens.

[steveO]

Thanks Robert!

Dragging break pad:
Looks like there is an issue there, the back side of the rotor has a ring that is rusty. I'm going to pull it off and have a look .

Why is the grease spilling out of the joint? It looks like its coming out by the clamp or band area.

Got to move the stand its sitting under the frame.
I will check as you suggest


Question:

Is the front Diff lub GM SAE 75-90 Synthetic Axle Lub? I hope so I have almost a full bottle.

Also any idea how much it needs?

[Robert1101]

Front and rear diff use the same fluid. I did not notice the grease, if it is leaking grease then it needs a new boot, but a new axle is almost easier to replace than just the boot. If there is a tear and causing the grease to leak you more than likely have dirt inside the CV joint and it is bad, or will be very soon. By the by, putting the stand or jack under the frame is hard on boots, streches the rubber and can cause cracks and tears.

[justblazin]

The roaring noise is 99% of the time a Wheel Bearing.. Trust me...

A clicking noise would be a sure sign of a bad CV-Joint. But if your boot is leaking already. Might as well replace it before it begins to click. Also CV Grease gets everywhere when the boot tears or separates like that.

[steveO]

The is no real noise or clicking when I spin the wheel by hand in either direction.

The brake rotor is shot it de laminated in the middle of the back side of the rotor surface. I replaced them in May Auto Zone is going to give me a new one.

Looks like It just started happening based on the ware pattern on the brake pad.

You think this might be the noise?

[steveO]

Well fixed the brakes and changed front axle fluid, still has the sound.
No clicking or clunking which I suppose is what the CV will make when it's going.

I guess it's the bearing, since i was in a hury to get it back togther I didnt study to see how difficult a job it is.

I'll consider changing the CV when I do the bearing if its not too tough a job for me.

Looks like the nut on the axle has to come off, is the bearing bolted in?

And BTW Thanks Robert1101 and Justblazin for your help.

[Robert1101]

Yes, there are 4 bolts.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/renfield1101/00894.jpg

[Michblaze02]

Sounds like this is my issue as well. Is changing the bearing all that difficult :undecided or hard to get too and change out.

[markarock]

If you are experienced, changing the bearing is not that difficult. Take the big nut off (loosen and remove it while the tire/wheel is still on the ground). Spray some PB Blaster or other rust penetrant on the splines and allow to soak thoroughly. Remove the four bolts. Tap the old bearing out/off the CV axle spline. It may be stuck, rusted in, so you may need to do some heavy tapping. Remove the wiring connector and the old bearing. Clean the inside of the housing, lube the exterior of the new bearing and the splines, install the new bearing and bolts, connect the wire harness, install the wheel/tire, then torque the big axle nut per the manual. You don't want to over-torque it, but you don't want it too loose either. That's it, as best I recall.

Changing the axle and seal aren't difficult while you are at it.

See this thread.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=45202

[steveO]

Thanks for the info.

I ordered the hub/bearing on Ebay and the CV / half axle from Rockauto.com. It didn't make sense to replace the boot when a new unit complete is only $55.00.

The seal looks like its leaking not a lot but it should be replace once I have it apart.

I'm going to the dealer on Monday to get the seal and the 30 MM nut.
Is there a torque specification for the nut?

I guess judging from the link getting it apart can be a chore.

[the roadie]

I got two Cardone aftermarket half-shafts from Rockauto and they came with replacement nuts. I wouldn't buy any from the dealer, if this is the nut you were referring to. Strangely, they were 1 or 2 mm different from the OEM ones, and that almost made me buy another large size socket. I think it was 34 or 35mm, though, not 30. I may be misremembering.

[steveO]

Roadie

Thanks for the heads up.
I have to check and see if I have a 30MM socket, if not I can borrow it from Auto Zone.

[Michblaze02]

:eek:Wow what a difference a new wheel bearing hub makes. Ended up running $290 after all was said and done. Had a friend of a friend who works at a dealer work on it for me, saved about $140 having him help me out.

[steveO]

I have to check and see if I have a 30MM socket, if not I can borrow it from Auto Zone.

The original was 35 MM (Auto Zone doesn't have it) The replacement is 36 MM (Auto Zone has 36 MM)

I inherited an 1 1/2" socket that worked for me it is still a bit big for the 36MM
had no trouble getting the 35MM off with it.