front wheel bearing [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: front wheel bearing


silver ghost
12-28-2008, 09:10 PM
Hello forum! I need some insight on a noise i have comming from the front of the tb, while i am driving. It sounds like bad tire road noise and someone told me it might be a wheel bearing. I jacked up the front end and checked and the wheel has no play in it at all both sides.i just had the tires rotated about 3000 miles ago. Im running firehawks by firestone.Is there some other non evasive test that i can try? I hate to spend the money for the bearings and dont need them. Im old school and i didnt even know that the whole hub had to be replaced.:bonk:

markarock
12-28-2008, 11:17 PM
Check out this thread.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=38688

And the thread cited in that thread.

The typical test is to drive along, about 25-35, listening carefully. Then turn the wheel slightly to the left. Did the noise change?

Then let it go straight, and turn it slightly to the right. Did the noise change?

What you are doing is loading up the bearing opposite the direction of the turn. If the noise gets worse when you turn left, then the right bearing is bad. If it stays the same, or gets less when you turn right, you have confirmed the source of the problem.

As I have said before, be American, buy American. Don't buy a cheap imported bearing. We need to protect our industry, and our workers. Sending our money overseas will just make our economy, and our future, worse.

I'll get off the soap box now.

dcs90
12-29-2008, 12:35 AM
Also, if you do have to replace them you might need to use a gear puller. I ended up renting one at Murray's. It was rusted on pretty good.

silver ghost
12-29-2008, 01:58 AM
the noise starts when i go over 30mph, you dont really hear anything below 30, just before i come to a stop, you can really hear it?:confused:

markarock
12-29-2008, 08:26 AM
Do the "slight turn" test, and report back with the results. Do it when the noise starts, and do it when you are just coming to a stop.

silver ghost
12-31-2008, 12:41 AM
I tried the test and no change to the noise. so im gonna take off the tire and caliper and turn the rotor by hand to see if there is any resistance etc.:thx

WOOLUF1952
12-31-2008, 02:46 AM
Before you do anything to the caliper, spin the rotor by hand with the tire off . See if there is any grinding noise. Then if you just pry the caliper away from the rotor so it isn't touching, it'll save time and work of putting it back together until you get the parts you need. This is assuming you need the truck until you get parts. It's late so I'm hoping I'm making sense.

silver ghost
01-06-2009, 12:59 AM
Thx for the replys. i hear no grinding noise by turning the rotor. I noticed that when i turned the rotor, it seemed to be out of round. i have slotted rotors. i hate to buy the hub and its something else.i know you cant turn the slotted rotors, but im going to put the oems back on to see if maybe its the rotors.:crazy:

r_peaches
01-10-2009, 04:48 PM
I had the same front end whine, which sounded like road noice or a bad tire. Called the shop and they said it was probably a tire going bad/seperating. However my kid said that he thought it was a wheel hub, since his Oldsmobile had a similar issue and the hub eliminated it. So, I tore it down and being old school, checked everything out and it appeared fine. They're sure not like the old wheel bearings are they.

Anyway, let it go and it kept getting louder and louder. So, I found this sight on the net, and everything I was reading indicated that it was the wheel hub on my 2004 Trail Blazer. So, I checked the prices at the local parts stores and found that they were anywhere from $189 -257 for a good Timken hub.

Then I read on the this sight that I should check out the web for parts because some of them are less expensive and the same parts you buy at the locale stores, so I did. I found some real inexpensive ones, but they only had 5 studs, mine has 6 studs, but the Timken replacement was $178 a $79 savings.

Changed it out and loo and behold, the noise is gone!

I only changed out the problem one, so the other side will have to be changed out shortly I'm sure, so if anyone can give me some sights for less expensive parts, I'd be greatful.

davidevo
01-10-2009, 05:49 PM
Hey Peaches, welcome to the forum! My 2003 Trailblazer needs wheel hub bearings very soon, and I was curious where you purchased your Timken hubs for $178? AutoZone sells the Timken wheel hub bearing assy. for $207. There are cheaper wheel hubs available on eBay, but other members who purchased them said they didn't last. Have a nice day. :)

Dave

silver ghost
01-22-2009, 02:24 AM
hey dudes! i replaced both hubs and still have the same noise. i noticed when i had the tires off, that the inside of the tires on both sides where worn or cupped. i think i learned an expensive lesson.bummer:bonk:

ft1
01-22-2009, 07:35 AM
Rockauto.com has the Timken for 173 plus shipping. I cant decide if I want those or AC Delco parts.

markarock
01-22-2009, 07:45 AM
I opted for the AC Delco from Rock Auto for my old 03 Envoy. Spent the extra money, and it was functionally fine, and the truck was nice and quiet when I was done. BUT, the antilock wiring connector didn't match what was on the truck, so I had to swap the old wiring onto the new hub. Not a big job, but an annoyance.

Given that experience, I'll probably try the Timken's next time.

Joe92T
01-22-2009, 11:15 AM
My front wheel bearing went in my trailvoy and i got a new one from NAPA Autoparts for $130 dollers, thats complete with studs, ABS Sensor + Harness, everything needed and it has a 1 year warranty if it were to fail u can just exchange it out

silver ghost
02-01-2009, 02:57 PM
Well guys, it wasnt the bearings after all. my tires were worn on the inside tread and was cupping. I dont get it because i rotate my tires every 3000 miles and my last alignment check was good. Oh well a expensive lesson learned. Now i have new bearings, but will need new tires soon..I run firehawks on the tb.Switching to a better tire.Fyi, i did rotate them again and the noise is gone till they wear down again..:bonk::bonk::bonk::bonk:

the roadie
02-01-2009, 05:00 PM
How many miles? I'd guess shocks.

silver ghost
02-02-2009, 01:07 AM
I have 76000 on the tb and last year i put kybs on the rear with a new set of lowering springs. the front struts seem to be ok. no bounce etc..:thx

FireHawkMike
02-02-2009, 02:44 AM
I just had my left front go bad. was makign the same noise you're talkign about.

WOOLUF1952
02-02-2009, 04:12 AM
Putting lowering springs on the back would change the caster angle of the front tires. I don't think it would cause tire cupping, but? Cupping is usually associated with loose front end. Maybe worn tie rod ends.:m2:

LIL_MAC
02-13-2009, 11:01 PM
Is this noise everyone is referring to similar to unbalanced tires? Is it just noise or pulsing? My 2002 LTZ is starting to pulse/slight vibration in the steering wheel at speeds greater that 50 MPH. Could this just be unbalanced tires? Took it to Wal-Mart to get tires balanced, but the TB was too low for their lifts:suicide:(All I have on is Eibachs). Anyways, taking it to Discout Tire to get them balanced tomorrow and hope it fixes the issue. Just wanted to know what else to look for if balancing the tires doesn't do it.:worried:

sarfella
02-26-2009, 07:52 PM
Several weeks ago I had the noise so I got the local dealer to check it out..turns out it was the left wheel bearing...cost me $600 inc tax to replace. Got the noise again tonight so tomorrow I'll do the turning test..however this time I'm going try solo. This forum is an excellent universe of knowledge but I'm wondering if I should go with an ebay generated replacement or Canadian Tire/NAPA? Thanx in advance for the advice.

davidevo
02-28-2009, 03:21 PM
I purchased my wheel hub bearings at rockauto.com for $173.79 each. These are Timken wheel hub bearings also, which is what you want. I would stay away from eBay unless you can verify the hubs are AC Delco or Timken. Have a nice day.

Dave

sarfella
03-01-2009, 12:01 PM
Thanx for the advice. Reading the forum; I think I might have a problem getting the hub off as often it seems they seize on...got any recommendations/advice on tools to hire....I'm reasonably new at this type of detail. Thanx.

10856
04-03-2009, 01:55 PM
Here is a link from another member who tackled this job http://www.dmvwebdesigns.com/wheelhub.htm

ChevyTb2003
10-25-2009, 07:51 PM
soo when i turn left it makes the noise of when a wheel bearing is bad, that means i have to replace my right one? and when i turn right its fine. so its just the opposite?.

billdaman
10-26-2009, 11:32 AM
Well I couldnt leave well enough alone. We had heavy rain here all weekend and deep water was building up all over. I took the XUV to a local park that has some gravel trails and repeatedly drove the pampered grocery getter up and down the trail and around a sharp turn that had a 2 - 3 foot deep large puddle. It was a riot for the kids to have that muddy water fly in a wave over the hood and windshield.

NOW, I have a rubbing tire tread noise coming from the front of the truck, its loudest at 20 - 35 mph, does not change during turns, braking, 4WD or not still the same sound. Nothing apparently loose or rubbing on the tire like a splash shield, no other strange ticks clicks or odors. I pulled every stuck pebble from the tires, no change. The tires are Michleins, a few months old and no previous road noise. They are Properly inflated, I didnt hit a thing during this outing like a pothole etc. I did put it in and out of 4WD a bunch of times NP.

So (Help here Roadie!) is it:

A) A stone stuck between the caliper and the rotor?
B) The dreaded LH Wheel HUB (should there be a difference in noise? e.g. a difference from left to right hand wheel turns? there is none.)
C) The tire decided to blow a belt because I dared to enter the sacred space of the off roader with my poorly equipted grocer getter?
E) Something else that anyone could shed light on?

the roadie
10-26-2009, 02:25 PM
No substitute for jacking it up and rotating each tire to listen and feel. Then throw the spare on each side in turn. Sorry I can't think of anything more specific.

acfloyd23
11-03-2010, 10:33 PM
I purchased my wheel hub bearings at rockauto.com for $173.79 each. These are Timken wheel hub bearings also, which is what you want. I would stay away from eBay unless you can verify the hubs are AC Delco or Timken. Have a nice day.

Dave

Unfortunatley i've had this problem come up too. Is there anyway I can get the part # from rockauto.com? I have an 02 LTZ and wanna try and tackle this myself to save a few.

Thanks,

Aaron

Trail_07
11-04-2010, 12:39 AM
I had this noise for sometime usually on turning among others, Took it to the dealership and yes it was the outer bearing on the right. I changed both just to be safe and no problems since. Its a 2007 Trailblazer

MarshallU14
10-06-2011, 10:17 AM
I am getting the same kind of noise from the front of my vehicle. I tried the turn test and it doesn't get worse when I turn the wheel in any direction, but when I turn the wheel slightly to the right, it gets softer and almost cuts out completely. Does that mean that the right bearing is bad?

playstrings
10-15-2011, 10:15 PM
Hey Bud, they are deceptive little devils. The way sound travels it is hard at times to determine which one it is. Sometimes easier with two people in the vehicle to triangulate the sound. I usually go to an empty shopping mall and do circles. LOL ... and then sometimes both are worn... best of luck. Find someone who has messed with them to help you out. The nature of the noise going away when you are turning one way and getting loud turning the other is indicative of the wheel bearing ... now just figuring out which one... is not relative to which way you are turning.:coffee

SBUBandit
10-18-2011, 08:51 AM
Personally if at all possible, I would replace them in pairs anyways.

WisconsinMax
10-18-2011, 10:08 AM
Timkens are 115 at Advanced Auto right now. Having the same problem with my TB.

mikesarebetter
10-18-2011, 10:11 AM
Hey everyone, i just wanted to throw this out there since no one has mentioned 1aauto.com

they have some awesome prices on wheel bearings and come with a 2yr warranty. they offer both timken and a cheap cheap one. i personally have yet to worry about wheel bearings on my trailblazer but have bought four cheapies so far for my other cars and they've worked great. i did have one start to fail after about six months. i called em up, ordered a new one, replaced it and sent in the old one for a refund. zero hassle. so if you got the time and place to replace them yourself it's definitely worth the cheapy

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Chevy/Trailblazer/-/-/2006

WisconsinMax
10-18-2011, 10:13 AM
^^^^thats the place I found a set for 115

mikesarebetter
10-18-2011, 10:31 AM
^^^^thats the place I found a set for 115

if thats the case you misread the ad.. the ones for 115 were for a pair of those cheapies..

the timkens were 195 a piece and 334 a pair

still great prices tho

or amazon has timkens for really cheap at 150 each
http://www.amazon.com/Timken-513188-Axle-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B000BZAAJ0

WisconsinMax
10-18-2011, 10:37 AM
Yea I meant 115 for the cheapies. Comes with 2 year warranty. I just ordered them and will let you guys know how the install goes and how they do over time. The Timkens are 115 a piece at Advanced Autoparts with free shipping right now but I just put 4 new tires and brakes all around so the cheapies were what I could afford right now.:undecided

mikesarebetter
10-18-2011, 10:43 AM
^^^^thats the place I found a set for 115

it seems I misread your post.. oops

Yea I meant 115 for the cheapies. Comes with 2 year warranty. I just ordered them and will let you guys know how the install goes and how they do over time. The Timkens are 115 a piece at Advanced Autoparts with free shipping right now but I just put 4 new tires and brakes all around so the cheapies were what I could afford right now.:undecided

good luck with install!! even if your like me:bonk:, it should go fairly smooth

WisconsinMax
10-18-2011, 12:21 PM
No problem. It happens. Just drove it and the noise gets quieter turning left so the drivers side is bad? And is there a good How To on replacing these?

the roadie
10-18-2011, 12:25 PM
.And is there a good How To on replacing these?A hundred discussions:

Google for: "replacing wheel bearings site:trailvoy.com"

WisconsinMax
10-22-2011, 02:16 AM
So far I have passenger side replaced and working on the drivers side. I went with A1auto. Got them in 2 days, free shipping, and $115 for both fronts.

WisconsinMax
10-22-2011, 01:35 PM
Drivers side installed. Airhammer was a life saver.

WisconsinMax
10-23-2011, 01:30 AM
Took it for a drive and no more humming but my ABS light is on. This normal or is something not right? Both sensor cables are good and tight

Mooseman2
10-23-2011, 12:08 PM
I've seen that before with el-cheapo hubs. Actually, the ABS reluctor in the hub was so screwed up, it would make the ABS modulate just when coming to a stop, releasing the brakes and making me go through the stop. I tried to switch the sensor, same thing. Had to pull the ABS fuse until that hub died within a year and was replaced.

Now I'm looking for hubs for my TB and so far, I'm leaning to either Timken or Raybestos from RockAuto.

WisconsinMax
10-27-2011, 03:30 AM
Called em today and got a new one coming free to me. And I keep the one with the bad sensor. It says front right so that's the passenger front correct?

mwfaith1971
10-27-2011, 08:47 AM
Called em today and got a new one coming free to me. And I keep the one with the bad sensor. It says front right so that's the passenger front correct?

That would be correct. But, they can go on either side. There are no differences between the left and right sides with the wheel hub assemblies.

Matt

WisconsinMax
10-27-2011, 10:51 AM
That would be correct. But, they can go on either side. There are differences between the left and right sides with the wheel hub assemblies.

Matt

Can you tell me the differences?

the roadie
10-27-2011, 11:16 AM
Can you tell me the differences?The part number is the same left and right. No diffs.

mwfaith1971
10-27-2011, 03:20 PM
Can you tell me the differences?

The part number is the same left and right. No diffs.

Sorry about that...fixed it with an edit.

Matt

Andrade
12-05-2011, 11:25 PM
Hey I'm new to the forum and I've been having a problem with my driver side front wheel. It had a humming noise coming from it that sounded just like the wheel bearing going! I did the slight turn test and whenever I turned right pitting pressure on the driver side wheel it would get louder! Now I replaced the wheel bearing and the noise is still there!! I'm going on a long trip with my 2003 tb and in worried something my break down on me half way! Any ideas on what it may be???

blown4pt3
12-06-2011, 12:03 AM
Hey I'm new to the forum and I've been having a problem with my driver side front wheel. It had a humming noise coming from it that sounded just like the wheel bearing going! I did the slight turn test and whenever I turned right pitting pressure on the driver side wheel it would get louder! Now I replaced the wheel bearing and the noise is still there!! I'm going on a long trip with my 2003 tb and in worried something my break down on me half way! Any ideas on what it may be???

Do you have a torque wrench and do you know the torque specs for the 3 bolts on the hub assembly and the axle nut? You can also add in the bolts for the saddle on caliper for that matter as well. I replaced the drivers side on my tb last year for doing what you described. While I was at it though, I found the CV shaft was going bad and that the upper ball joint was also on the way out. Anyway, I bought a Timken bearing assembly from Autozone when I did mine. You didn't mention where the bearing came from or what brand. If it was from Autozone and was a Timken, it should be under warranty. Just thowing some other stuff out there to ponder. IIRC, the hub assembly to steering knuckle is 77 ft-#s and axle nut is 103.

Andrade
12-06-2011, 12:48 AM
The bearing is a timken and I torqued all the bolts and nuts to specs. I just don't get it! I did this already in other vehicles (Nissan Honda and some gm) and the noise always went away! Could the bearing be defective? And also normally if the bearing goes bad the wheel would have play on it no? And in terms of front end everything is tight! Could it be something else?

playstrings
12-06-2011, 09:28 AM
:tiphat Hey I got that T-shirt ... bet if you change out the other wheel the noise goes away. I have had both of them ware out at the same time. I was cursing the timken ... error.

Andrade
12-06-2011, 04:10 PM
I'll try and do that! But I'm sure the noise is coming from the same wheel! And I had a buddy telling me it could be the bearing in the differential, could it? And also wouldn't the wheel have play if the bearing was gone??

Andrade
12-07-2011, 11:26 PM
Just finished changing the passenger side and the noise is gone! Apparently the wheel bearings have an inner and outer bearing so when u turn left it puts pressure on the driver side inner and passenger side outer and if u turn right it puts pressure in the inner on the driver side and outer on the passenger side. So the driver side both bearings were gone and on the passenger side the inner bearing was all rustyfied!!! Therefor whenever I turned left the noise would come from both bearings!!! Thanks for all ur help!!! Next on the list is the rad fan lol another bearing gone on that!!

MoJoRisinII
11-06-2012, 12:33 PM
FYI I bought a Timken using ADVANCE AUTOs price 25% off at Autozone (They matched the competitors price). Out the door was around $125 to $130. 3 yr warranty!!

imspyguy
03-12-2013, 07:36 PM
Hello,
I bought an 03 trailblazer at about 147k. I like it. Unfortunately, the front end started humming/whining a few days ago, 300 miles or so. Does it need to be replaced immediately or will it last a few thousand miles like my jeep.

Thanks for all the info so far, this is GREAT Website.

jb

P.S. Sorry didn't see this link until after I posted.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=49560

meister81
04-13-2013, 03:03 PM
I think I have a bad right hub the noise goes away when I turn right. My question is if the hub is bad wouldn't I get a warning light on my dash? I just don't want to buy one if I dont need one.

Thanks

imspyguy
04-13-2013, 11:13 PM
Hi,
Nope, you won't see an indicator light on the dash for a bad wheel bearing. It's purly mechanical. If you are hearing a hum that you haven't heard before chances are it's a bad bearing - I just had one replaced for $125.00 (Parts and Labor) - It takes about an hour to have it changed. The Noise will only get worse - so, if it is a wheel bearing, you'll hear it more and more.

Can't hurt to have it looked at, and schedule it for replacement.

Good Luck!!

j

playstrings
06-19-2013, 09:12 AM
Spyguy, start saving up, in a year or so when that cheapy hub goes buy a Timken. The hub will cost about the same price as your job. I now have over 3years and 100,000 mi on mine , after using some cheapys LOL. :tiphat

SBUBandit
06-20-2013, 12:46 PM
Spyguy, start saving up, in a year or so when that cheapy hub goes buy a Timken. The hub will cost about the same price as your job. I now have over 3years and 100,000 mi on mine , after using some cheapys LOL. :tiphat

:thumbsup: Unfortunately playstrings is right. I put cheapos on mine a year ago and I could hear them squeaking at low speeds about a month later. They haven't gotten worse yet, so I just live with the squeak. The cheapies are great for buying you time to save up for Timken parts. Sometimes you can find Timkens on ebay a little less than your local parts store, but they will still be over twice as much as the cheap ones. Not very hard to do yourself though. If you can change brakes, you can do hubs on these trucks.

Now if only I could change the hubs myself on my dang Taurus. Half the front of the car has to be taken apart to do those.

playstrings
06-22-2013, 10:31 PM
One thing that has been mentioned a couple of times across this thread that I would like to just point out again... that nut on the the hub has to be torqued properly ... not just driven on with an impact gun like most mechanics are prone to do. To tight and the bearing will not last.:nono:

bdeuster
06-23-2013, 11:27 AM
Hi Guys,
Very informative thread...I started investigating hub and bearing replacement after the dealership told me on Friday that the noise I was experiencing was likely due to a bad hub and bearing assembly. In reading through the thread I noticed a comment that "Cupping is usually associated with loose front end. Maybe worn tie rod ends." so I'm wondering if maybe it's the tires?

The thing that is making me question the honesty of the dealership is that the noise began about two months ago right after they installed new tie rod ends (which is why the quote in the prior paragraph caught my attention), breaks, rear stabilizer bars and did an alignment. I noticed the noise the minute I was driving out of their lot and assumed maybe it was just due to the alignment and that it was just noise from the tires that would go away after they wear a bit.

The noise went on for about 2 months so that's when I finally brought it back in a few days ago. That's when they said it's likely the hub/bearing. I asked them if that could have been damaged when they made the other repairs (mentioned above) and they of course said it's just something that happens over time. I told them again that the noise began as soon as I picked up my envoy and I never had the noise before then but that of course did not change their stance.

Their estimate for one bearing replacement was about $600 in parts and an additional $300 labor...as you can imagine, I'm not excited to spend another $900 with them to correct a problem that started immediately after they did other necessary work on the vehicle.

If it could be tire cupping making the noise (due to worn tie rod ends in the past), would a rotation/balance help to diagnose/correct it? I have the tires rotated and balanced every 7,500 miles. Is cupping easy to identify visually?

Sorry for the long post but I'm hoping maybe someone with experience/knowledge can point me in the right direction as to what the issue might be (and if the prior work they did might help diagnose the issue since that's exactly when the noise started) or how to determine the real problem. Also, if anyone thinks the dealership might be liable for the issue that I now have please let me know...I'm not quick to point the finger but the timing of this just does not add up.

I'm going to try the left/right turn that everyone is talking about to see if it gets worse when turning to help isolate which bearing it might be (if it is the bearing).

Thanks guys - really appreciate your knowledge and any input!

peter_gibbons
11-01-2013, 01:18 PM
Hey bdeuster -

Did you ever get the noise figured out? My situation sounds similar - had an inner tie rod end replaced and an alignment done a week ago, a couple days later my wife asks if I put new off-road tires on the front. Same low-pitched noise everyone here describes. The noise doesn't change when turning to either side. Haven't had it looked at by a shop yet. After reading the postings it sure sounds like both hub bearings need replacement, but like everyone I don't want to just throw parts at it until I find the right one.

bdeuster
11-01-2013, 02:09 PM
peter_gibbons

Sorry I never circled back to the forum to give an update. I brought it into a different (non-dealership) repair shop to have them take a look and get a quote. It was in fact the hub/bearing assembly. One was worse than the other but they let me know that the 2nd was starting to go and might last another week or could go for a year. I had just the one replaced and about 2 weeks later the other started making the noise too so I had that one replaced as well.

I asked them about the previous work causing the new issue and they let me know that the work itself would not cause the issue and that the hub/bearing would have already been worn. They let me know that doing the front end work probably just wiggled things around enough (which is common they tell me) and therefore caused the issue to present itself more clearly due to the noise.

Good luck and sorry to hear you have a similar issue. One word of advice - if both are starting to go, get them done together if you can get a price break. I would have saved about $150 bucks having them both done at the same time rather than 2 separate jobs but I wanted to push my luck and hope the 2nd hub/bearing that was just staring to go would last for a while. :)

peter_gibbons
11-01-2013, 04:12 PM
Thanks for the reply, I'm on my way to an indy shop to get it looked at. Guy quoted me $150 to do both sides - I'd prefer to DIY but would probably spend pretty close to that to buy the tools I need. Will report back.

peter_gibbons
11-01-2013, 06:10 PM
Well shoot, the bearings are fine but the front diff is shot. Not sure if I'll fix it or trade it off.

Change your fluids on time, everybody!

Calabria
09-25-2014, 01:05 AM
Hi All,

I've been reading this thread and it is very informative. Just by reading all the entries I would say that my 2007 Trailblazer needs front bearings. I've replaced bearings on plenty of cars but if I'm reading this right, the Trailblazer uses a sealed hub assembly that is replaced in it's entirety. Am I reading this right?

All the pictures and descriptions I'm seeing are for 4WD vehicles. My TB is 2WD, is the replacement procedure the same minus the hub? I'm looking on line at parts and I don't see a distinction between 2WD and 4WD hubs. Is there a difference?

Last dumb question. Everyone is recommending the Timken hub. I trust the Raybestos, Moog and ACDelco brands. Is the Timken hub that much better or is it reputation?

All the cars I've done bearing work on used the old school bearing/race arrangement so these hubs are a new thing for me. Any recommendations or warnings to watch out for?

playstrings
09-27-2014, 07:56 PM
My Timkens have 5 years and close to 100,000 mi on them ... I personally would not buy a hub that was not Timken ... next important factor ..TORQUE it to spec... not a hard job ... while a bit more expensive the hubs are ok... :tiphat

Yukon2002 TB LT
09-27-2014, 09:20 PM
Hi , I have the problem too , bought a 2002 Trailblazer LT and the front end is making a humming / rubbing noise , I bought the TB and it has studded winter tires on it , which is what I thought the noise was. But its been getting louder and now I notice its loud when I turn right and going straight , but no noise when turning left. I jacked it up, I have no play when checking the tires up and down , but side to side I get a small amount of play on both sides. I have new brakes on the whole thing. Never checked my diff yet , but will tomorrow. Everything else besides the little bit of side to side play in the front seems tight and good. So ... does this sound like my bearing or what ? I don't really have the extra cash right now , so I don't want to be spending a lot , but I might have to since Ive been driving on it thinking it was my studs on the pavement! Any answers are appreciated

markarock
10-09-2014, 12:25 AM
Don't go by how much play you feel. Normally you can't feel any play even when they are loud and screaming like a banshee.

I've driven 10k miles after they started making noise, so, from my personal experience, it is not something that must be done immediately. Getting quiet when you turn in one direction and noisy in the other is a classic symptom of a bad hub. Read the posts and you will learn which one is bad. :)

I think most name brands are pretty much equal in quality. People have their favorites, but I have used many different brands over the years successfully.

I believe the replacement procedure is the same whether 2wd or 4wd.

My recommendation is to make sure you don't need front shocks. Might as well do them when you have it apart if you need them, and if you have more than 100k on your shocks, I guarantee you need them.

Just my thoughts.

Mark