front wheel bearing changed [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: front wheel bearing changed


JerryIrons
03-28-2009, 07:46 AM
Hi people,

I used this forum website to help solve my wheel bearing problem, and thought I would put my own post up in case it helps anyone as well in the future. Plus I wanted to say thanks to the other posters!

I have an 06 extended 4WD trailblazer with 66,000 miles on it. Started noticing some wheel noise, or growling, but not terribly loud. I've had wheel bearings go bad in the past on other vehicles - this seemed a little different, almost like tire noise. Anyway noise started getting progressively worse, but not too bad, and I noticed that when I turned left, the noise got quieter. (= bad front left bearing). I was able to confirm this by driving straight down the road, and then turning slightly left or right. As other posters stated before, if the noise gets quiet in the direction you turn, that is your bad bearing because the load is taken off of the bearing somewhat.

Replacing the bearing was actually a pretty easy job, probably because my vehicle is only about 3.5 yrs old!!!

When I got to removing the bolts that hold the bearing assembly on (3 of them), I was somewhat concerned about the force required to "unscrew" them (after the initial loosening) , and got around that by putting some penetrating oil on them, and then alternating tightening and loosening until the bolts were out. Not too sure about the quality of todays parts I guess.
Interestingly, when I had the wheel jacked up, it seemed perfectly fine when turned by hand. Also, I could have sworn that the inner bearing (the one I didn't change), was making noise as well, enough so that I was fairly convinced that when I put everything back together again I was still going to have noise. However, once the new bearing was installed and I drove the vehicle, all quiet!!

Very discouraging to have a wheel bearing go bad so fast like this! WTF. Not only that, but I had to change a tie rod at 38,000 miles...

Anyhow, thanks again everyone!:)

-Jerry

markarock
03-28-2009, 08:42 AM
You were lucky. They have been known to go bad at 37,000.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=54529

Not sure what the record is, but 37,000 has got to be pretty close. They should go 150k-200k.

thefickler
03-28-2009, 09:01 AM
I'll be replacing me front left today after work. I had the right side go about 4-5 weeks ago, so I knew i better replace the left before it goes as well. I have 108k on my '02 Envoy, so they lasted a little while!

LMMJ
03-28-2009, 08:02 PM
You were lucky. They have been known to go bad at 37,000.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=54529

Not sure what the record is, but 37,000 has got to be pretty close. They should go 150k-200k.

the bearing jobs that come in to myshop have never had more than 80K. All different makes and models too.

Mine are still good @97K and I've been lowered for 3 yrs now (some say that kills steering/suspension)

stingray
03-29-2009, 01:51 PM
Hi, Is this something I can do myself? My 02 envoy xl (67000 miles) sounds like I have offroad tires on it. It gets worse when I turn to the right. Wheel bearing problem? On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is this job? I just put in a new fan clutch last month. Who makes quality replacements and where can I buy them?
Thanks,:) Stingray

Michblaze02
03-29-2009, 02:10 PM
On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is this job?

From what I could see when a buddy was doing mine for me on my 2002 with 84,000 miles i'd say I would rate it a difficulty of 6. It is just time consuming,(a good solid hour) especially with older rides that have more rust on them. Have to buff all of it off before replacing with the new one to ensure that it is aligned right. I got mine at a advance auto parts store for $280ish. I believe it was a timken brand with a one year warranty on it.

JerryIrons
04-03-2009, 04:44 PM
Not sure how to rate it from 1 to 10, but it was easier than I expected if that helps. I think if you can change your own pads/rotors, you can certainly handle this.

I don't know where to buy quality parts anymore. I ended up getting mine from carquest, which said Timken on it, 1 year warranty, and also said made in china, for $149. I used to always buy parts from NAPA but don't think so much of them now.

-Jerry

thefickler
04-03-2009, 04:56 PM
I had no issues come up when I changed mine out. Biggest part for me was trying to get the old hub off of the spindle since it had so much corrosion present. I too went with Timken, (but i paid $199!! Wish i went to your store jerry!!) and it drives like a new car. Definitely worth the time and effort to save a couple $$ imo.

stingray
04-04-2009, 10:52 AM
Thanks for the info on the wheel bearing.

JerryIrons
04-04-2009, 06:25 PM
Well I don't know if my hub was just one made for Timken by someone else, you know? So maybe I got what I paid for, who knows. Even then I could have bought one off of ebay for half of what I paid...it seems like it's all a crap shoot nowadays.

I did not have a brass drift when I did mine, still trying to find one of those, maybe sears has one. I ended up using a piece of 2x4.

rbarrios
04-06-2009, 03:50 PM
seems that terrain helps in prolonging life. So cal has less potholes than the east coast...
Im still on factory units- now nearing 143,000

botiklr
04-15-2009, 03:18 PM
i have a 2004 lt with 73000 on it. i have put 4 of these on since it hit 60k. one gm wheel bearing, two auto zone, and one ebay..............they all are junk. gm needs to step up and recall the piece of sheets and do something about it!!!!!!!!!!!!!111

pdblues2231
04-22-2009, 09:54 AM
Well. I must agree its horrible finding quality parts. But shamefully its not just parts. I am convinced its the quality of people. well. anyhow I found a site that sells AMERICAN made hubs(so they claim) for 129.00+s&h.
ok..hope this helps someone www.mibearings.com you may searching our part# which is 513188. If anyone orders please post experience.

Good Job all..
:grouphug:

regularjoe
04-22-2009, 10:44 AM
I just put on a Timken on friday. I agree with earlier poster if you can change your brakes then you can do this. It is a lifetime bearing and was 200 dollars. The local stealership wanted 500 total to do the job. 400 for the bearing assembly alone.

pdblues2231
05-07-2009, 07:08 PM
Ok. I finally received my wheel hubs from above stated site and they seem very good. anyhow, I installed them and took truck for a ride and the sound that it was making at above 40mph seem to have gone away. I will test it again tomorrow at higher speed and tune my ear to any noise. Hummm... Well, I only replaced the passenger side since that was the culprit. The driver is still the OEM and seems ok..

Complete Job Time: approx 60mins per side
Differculty rating: 4 (10=Not worth it)

Any ques please ask... I have pics but cant seem to put them up. I think I must lower the megapixel on the camera..
:)

dlew133
05-08-2009, 10:07 PM
Looks like I'll be replacing a wheel bearing on my 2004 TB, 2WD. I've never did one before. Does anyone know if there is someplace I can go for instructions/pics.

the roadie
05-08-2009, 10:25 PM
Run a search here. With 2WD it's easy. Take off the wheel, brake caliper and the rotor. Three bolts from the inside and the hub comes out. Then deal with the ABS sensor harness and one electrical connector. Easier than a brake job.

4WD and you have to remove the CV shaft nut to get the hub out. Here's a pic showing my 4WD with the hub removed. Note the three bolt holes. Spray PB Blaster on them the day before if you're in a salt/rust prone area.

http://www.roadie.org/brakes9.jpg

pdblues2231
05-09-2009, 12:25 PM
well. Dlew133,
Its not hard just a little time and focus and you should be ok. I ordered mine from MIBEARINGS.com and they are premium hubs. made in the USA.. unlike those chinese things.. Hopefully they will last...

dlew133
05-09-2009, 08:36 PM
Thanks guys. I'll be ordering the wheelhub from Mibearings. Hopefully the project goes smoothly.

pdblues2231
05-18-2009, 04:25 PM
Oh,my
I dont understand this truck... I replaced the passenger wheel bearing and now I seem to get this noise when I am turning left. Its almost like a grinding noise. but only happens when I turn the wheel all the way to the left.. Any ideas anyone???:duh:

bucknut
06-25-2009, 12:39 AM
Thanks guys!!!! I will be replacing the one in my 05' TB 4x4 with 75,000 on it as soon as i get the part in. when I turn to the left the noise gets lower so that means its the left one thats bad?

markarock
06-25-2009, 07:06 AM
Yes. At least that's the common wisdom. But it wouldn't hurt (other than in the pocketbook) to replace both.:)

TBextLt03
07-22-2009, 01:31 AM
I posted a thread about this in another sub forum.. lol.. I think my left is going out.. i know i can feel a grind..and there is some noise from the left front tire..

thenjduke
07-31-2009, 11:13 AM
Well I am getting a strange noise from the front passenger side. It is nothing on the front end because had mechanic look at it and I just change brakes because of this sound. It only seems to happen about 25 mph or above and sounds like a click click click noise. Do you guys think it is the bearing? If so anyone have directions how to do it?
Thanks

markarock
07-31-2009, 01:06 PM
Noises that go click click click and not usually the bearing. Often they are the CV joint.

thenjduke
07-31-2009, 01:46 PM
it not a click click noise.. it is more like a noise where this is a piece of paper stuck on the tire and it gets louder as you drive faster. No worries having mechanic look at it tonight.

thenjduke
07-31-2009, 09:35 PM
okay everyone the part that has to be replaced is the passenger side axle or cv shaft. The rubber boot is off and it is shaking no problem when wiggling it. Do you guys think this is going to be hard to change and how much usually run? I had my normal mechanic look at it. The shaft is loose inside that is going into the transmission to the wheel hub.

markarock
07-31-2009, 10:07 PM
New CV shafts are less than $60 from Rock Auto.

About an hour to replace one, approximately.

The project seemed daunting when I was getting ready to do mine, but it wasn't bad after all.

If you have problems inside the transfer case, then you are looking at time and $$.

eeehabt
08-02-2009, 10:28 AM
okay everyone the part that has to be replaced is the passenger side axle or cv shaft. The rubber boot is off and it is shaking no problem when wiggling it. Do you guys think this is going to be hard to change and how much usually run? I had my normal mechanic look at it. The shaft is loose inside that is going into the transmission to the wheel hub.

Hi,
Don't drive it while the boot rubber is torn out, not even for 10 miles. From your description, the axle isn't gone yet. Dismantle it and change the boot with the correct amount and type of grease. Don't forget to check the cleanliness and level of the front differential fluid after finishing the job.

thenjduke
08-02-2009, 04:36 PM
The car is sitting at the shop. My mechanic is going to do the work. I drove it down there which was about 50 miles. The boot is still off and you can move the axle with bare hand. I will get a price from him this week. He is a good mechanic has always worked on my truck. Question should I have him change the transfer case oil while he is at it. There is 83000 miles on the truck.

the roadie
08-02-2009, 05:28 PM
Confirm with the Owner's Manual, but we typically change transfer case fluid every 50K as it recommends, and either 50 or 100K for the front and rear differentials, depending on how hard you use them.

markarock
08-02-2009, 05:28 PM
It should have been changed at 50k, I believe. It is easy to do if you are handy. But while he has it in the air ... and if the price isn't too high ... (fluid is about 9 bucks a quart at the dealer, and you need two, and you'll need to have a pump to put it in, and you'll have to worry about making a mess when you drain it and disposing of the old stuff) ... I'd let him do it.

rod25
08-02-2009, 07:42 PM
I am actually in the middle of replacing my hubs right now. But when I pulled the first hub off there seemed to be alot of rust. Ive been sanding the race down trying to get it off but it is stubborn. I am also using a wire wheel. I dont want to leave any rust on it, but I am concerned of how loose the new hub already is, it slides right in.

Should I continue sanding and remove all rust?
Is there anything I can use to protect the metal such as locktite or rtv when I mount the new hub?
How loose is too loose?

markarock
08-02-2009, 07:56 PM
If you're talking about the hole in what I refer to as the spindle, that the hub bolts to, the only real place you need to worry about the rust is on the outer face. Once the hub mounting bolts are torqued, it's not going to move. The new one should slip in.

If you want to be anal, sand the "bore" well and paint with POR-15--but not the face.

Or, you can just slather on some heavy wheel bearing grease. But be careful, you don't want any dripping out and falling onto a face of the rotor.

thenjduke
08-03-2009, 08:01 AM
My question what is the worse case scenario if my transfer case is bad? I know I might be getting ahead of myself but I just curious where I get these parts and have machanic change them.

the roadie
08-03-2009, 11:44 AM
My question what is the worse case scenario if my transfer case is bad? I know I might be getting ahead of myself but I just curious where I get these parts and have machanic change them.Where do you get any parts? From the dealer, Ebay, on-line vendors, or junkyards. Transfer cases are not the sort of thing you can get from local parts stores, but Ebay has MANY of them listed.

thenjduke
08-03-2009, 01:00 PM
Ebay or local mechanic usually.

eeehabt
08-14-2009, 06:28 AM
I am actually in the middle of replacing my hubs right now. But when I pulled the first hub off there seemed to be alot of rust. Ive been sanding the race down trying to get it off but it is stubborn. I am also using a wire wheel. I dont want to leave any rust on it, but I am concerned of how loose the new hub already is, it slides right in.

Should I continue sanding and remove all rust?
Is there anything I can use to protect the metal such as locktite or rtv when I mount the new hub?
How loose is too loose?

You need to install the big O ring that comes with it. It will squeeze in between the spindle and the hub.

eeehabt
08-14-2009, 06:31 AM
It should have been changed at 50k, I believe. It is easy to do if you are handy. But while he has it in the air ... and if the price isn't too high ... (fluid is about 9 bucks a quart at the dealer, and you need two, and you'll need to have a pump to put it in, and you'll have to worry about making a mess when you drain it and disposing of the old stuff) ... I'd let him do it.

The quantity needed is 0.85 Liter for the front differential. I'm sure when you drain the old fluid, you'll thank God that you've changed it.

enga
10-12-2009, 11:21 AM
well. Dlew133,
Its not hard just a little time and focus and you should be ok. I ordered mine from MIBEARINGS.com and they are premium hubs. made in the USA.. unlike those chinese things.. Hopefully they will last...


Thanks for the info on MIBEARINGS.

My front hub bearings have started to go bad (118K miles) and I did some searching on brands and prices.

While the 'thrifty' side me found the ebay cheapies appealing, the thought of unknown quality and having to possibly replace multiple times over the life of the truck just unappealing, especially when it is cold and snowing out like today.

So for not much more than the Chinese cheapies that I could buy at the local parts store, I instead ordered from MIBEARINGS as the hubs are Made in the USA. :thumbsup:

pdblues2231
10-14-2009, 07:50 PM
So tell me have you installed them?? What do you think??

haze274
10-15-2009, 01:44 AM
Hello boy this is a headache. I replaced the left side bearing assc. about two months ago now the same thing is happening again to the new bearing loud grinding noise. This is very irratating. Do any of my Trailblazer brothern have had this problem before if so any insight on a remedy to this problem. It would be greatly accepted thx....................

markarock
10-15-2009, 07:01 AM
Did you use a quality bearing, or did you try to cut corners and save money? If you tried to cut corners, then perhaps you shot yourself in the foot.

Are you sure it is the hub bearing assembly? Are you sure you don't have a different problem?

enga
10-15-2009, 11:19 AM
So tell me have you installed them?? What do you think??

Not yet, it's raining on and off and 35 degrees outside :no:. Maybe tomorrow or this weekend.

enga
10-16-2009, 03:48 PM
I just finished installing both sides and took a test drive...noise and vibration are gone. :thumbsup: New bearings look fine, I had no problem installing them or the abs cable.

My left side hub was definitely bad - your could feel the roughness by spinning hub in hand and right side was borderline. I did find my cv joint boot is leaking grease on the driver side near the transfer case. So I will looking into replacing that next.

It was not that hard to do at all. If you can change your front brakes pad, your over half way there. I was concerned about separating the cv axle from the hub but it was still like new on the splines. Total time was less than two hours to do both from parking the truck to test drive and that including going back to the house and getting the manual to look up the torque specs.

P.S. apply some grease the splines of the cv axle so if you ever have to do this again, they will come slide off the hub.

haze274
10-18-2009, 12:57 AM
Yes I used a high quality bearing assimbley O'Rielys ordered it for me and as far as cutting corners by saving money I didnt think $185 for 1 assembly was cheap. I forgot the name brand it was. Checked all CV joint boots and the are in almost perfect condition. Transfercase has plenty fluid with no cracks or damage. Thats why I am stumped but thx 4 asking me. Anybody have any more ideas???

pdblues2231
10-18-2009, 09:51 AM
Hey, Enga.

Am glad you like them... I also did my Driver side this weekend and what a difference.. I think the quality and price for these hub are awesome. Enjoy.

mwfaith1971
10-18-2009, 10:14 AM
Yes I used a high quality bearing assimbley O'Rielys ordered it for me and as far as cutting corners by saving money I didnt think $185 for 1 assembly was cheap. I forgot the name brand it was. Checked all CV joint boots and the are in almost perfect condition. Transfercase has plenty fluid with no cracks or damage. Thats why I am stumped but thx 4 asking me. Anybody have any more ideas???

haze,

I think you should remove the bearing, then while holding it turn it by hand and see if it's making the noise. If it is, there should be a warranty so get O'Reilly's to order you another one.

If there is no noise I would suspect the diff depending if you mean the drivers side when you say left side. If you mean left when you are looking at the vehicle it may be the splined disconnect...Roadie knows more about them than I would want to.

Matt

Matt

the roadie
10-18-2009, 10:26 AM
Agreed. Possibly the splined disconnect if it's a passenger side issue but their reputation for failure usually is silent. Also could be the driver's side diff outside bearing or a CV joint. Much more likely, statistically, to be an early life failure of the new bearing. Should be obvious if you get it up on stands and rotate the noisy wheel. Done that yet?

And when you checked the fluid level I assume you meant the meant the front differential, not the transfer case. The TC is also critical, and needs the fluid changed every 50K, but it's situated a bit more aft in the vehicle. ;)

trainman47
10-18-2009, 11:49 AM
Hi All

I have a question for you Roadie!
By any chance do you have the Torque Spec's for the hub mounting bolts and the halfshaft nut?

Need to replace my left hub today, got the part, know how to do it, just forgot the torque specifications.

Thanks

enga
10-18-2009, 12:19 PM
Here is what you need:

35mm deep well socket for the center axle nut.

18mm for the hub and caliper mounting bolts.

19 mm for the wheel lugs

Locite med blue for the wheel hubs bolts

Some wire or bungee cord to hang the caliper out of the way.

Regular screwdriver to undo the abs cable clips


Torque specs:

Axle nut is 103 ft-lbs.

Wheel hub and bearing assembly is 77 ft-lbs

Caliper mounting bolts is 130 ft-lbs.

Wheel lug nuts is 103 ft-lbs.

eeehabt
10-20-2009, 03:02 PM
Hi,
Have you seen the sticky in this part of the forum?
It's a great help if you're doing it the first time.

JerryIrons
02-02-2010, 08:44 AM
Just as a follow up to my wheel bearing fun, :hissy:

I ended up having to replace my left front wheel bearing AGAIN, this after about 22,000 miles on the new one I had purchased in march. In december, I started hearing growling again, and by the end of the year I bought a new right side bearing just assuming that the right side was going bad too. (about 88000 miles on the tb). Well the sound improved, but I'm still hearing a growling noise. :confused:??? I ended up looking everywhere for leaks, checked all of my u joints, changed my transfer case fluid and the front differential and couldn't really find anything obvious...Now I'm thinking do I have a bad shaft bearing? I remember that bearing said timken on it and also made in china... Anyhow bought a new bearing and replaced it - front end is all quiet now. (new bearing was actually free replacement from carquest) Before I raised the vehicle I did check that axle nut and it was tight - I'm thinking did I forget to torque that, wtf? Maybe I ended up getting one of those timken counterfeits who knows.

I swear when I go to buy any kind of automotive parts from anywhere I feel like I am rolling the dice in regards to quality.

the roadie
02-02-2010, 10:08 AM
...Before I raised the vehicle I did check that axle nut and it was tight - I'm thinking did I forget to torque that,...Just so you don't worry, axle nut torque doesn't affect anything in the bearing. It's not the older design style where the bearing preload is critical. All the nut does is keep the CV shaft in the sealed hub. 2WD trucks run around all the time with nothing installed there. (Although we've seen pics of a little stub shaft put in there on a 2WD SS - not entirely sure why they did that.)

JerryIrons
02-03-2010, 01:21 AM
Just so you don't worry, axle nut torque doesn't affect anything in the bearing. It's not the older design style where the bearing preload is critical. All the nut does is keep the CV shaft in the sealed hub. 2WD trucks run around all the time with nothing installed there. (Although we've seen pics of a little stub shaft put in there on a 2WD SS - not entirely sure why they did that.)

Yes you are right, thanks, there was no mention of "tightening and turning" in the manual like you do with bearings that you pack yourself...definitely a bad bearing assembly - or they forgot to add grease! I would have liked to cut it open but probably had to return it for the free replacement - thought about that too late.

I have been reading this site and there is a ton of good info here! Now I am starting to think of ideas on jazzing up my own a little...:cool:

stonews
03-09-2010, 04:57 PM
Replaced both of mine back a little over a year and a half ago with Timken's..... now my right one seams to be gone again!!!! Truck has just hit 80K.... its also time for new brake rotors..... for a second time!!! Paid for the "good" parts last time... May be looking at the cheap stuff on the second time around!

SVZuki
05-11-2010, 06:10 PM
Is there any difference in the wheel bearings between the 4wd and 2wd?

Edit: NVM, answer found.

GunnerNY
06-07-2010, 08:50 AM
About to replace my front left bearing at 47,500... means no LEDs for a bit :(

jkl69_98
08-08-2010, 07:59 PM
I've been reading through many posts of people who have had problems with thier front wheel bearings going out. I had to change mine because I felt a vibration and heard the droning sound others have mentioned. I took it in to have it realligned and the tires rotated because I thought this might have been the original problem. The tech said that the right side bearing was going bad. I assumed he ment the passenger side, but turns out it was the drivers side.

I then thought the factory bearing went out because I had slid into a curb with that wheel the first winter I had the vehicle.

I changed both in July of '09 and now at least one needs changed again. Of course it had to happen just outside of the 1-yr warranty and I can't exactly tell which side it is even with swerving left and right and taking some corners slightly faster than I should. One I bought one at Advanced Auto and one at O'Reillys so I wouldn't doubt if both need changed again.

I've been trying to find out what others use and if it worth spending the extra cash on the more expensive hubs. I think I'll check out the mibearings.com site since others have mentioned using them.

I really like my TB, but as others have said, it seems that you get one thing fixed and onther thing breaks. I just recently replaced one of the transmission cooler lines going between the tranny and the radiator. The lines were relatively cheap, about $50 from the dealer for both peices. I couldn't cut out the bad spot and put a rubber line in it's place since the hole in the line was right next to the catalytic converter.

If those people who have purchased and installed the bearings from mibearings.com, or any wheel bearings for that matter, would leave some feedback on how long they have been installed and what thier expreience has been would probably be helpful to the rest of us. I know when I finally get mine replaced, I'll try to report back every so often to let others know my experience.

JerryIrons
08-08-2010, 09:21 PM
I bought bearings at Carquest, they were about $150 or so, and they sucked.:mad: (both sides). One of them said Timken and made in China. I replaced one of them within the warranty period and it went bad as well. The other side went bad under warranty too but by that time I was sick of changing wheel bearings and just threw it out. I finally ended up buying high end bearings at NAPA, around $250ish apiece I think and made in USA. I only have about 10-15k miles on them though so no idea how long they will last. They are nice and quiet right now though.

mwfaith1971
08-09-2010, 08:50 AM
I got this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WBI-513188-4/ Made in the USA, so far so good. Been on about 12 months.

Matt

Brenner
08-15-2010, 12:35 AM
I changed drivers side with elcheapos from ebay about 2 months ago. So far so good. It is a pretty easy job so if I have to change it again I will with the ebay hub and still not have more than the cost of the so called high end hubs. The quality of the ebay hub seemed fine to me. I guess time will tell. The one I purchased came from PA. Shipped same day and had no problems. You might want to give them a shot. It was made in China, but what isn't.

jkl69_98
09-27-2010, 10:05 PM
So I changed the passenger front bearing with the one I bought from mibearings.com only to find out that the drivers side is either the bad bearing or both were bad. I think tomorrow or Wednesday, I'll put the one I took off of the passenger side and put on the Drivers side to see if it is still good and will fix the vibration.

As far as i can tell, the bearings I bought from mibearings.com is still working well. It;s probably been on for two months now and the vibrations hasn't gotten any worse. I really hope the drivers side is the only one that is bad because I can't really afford to put too much more money in it. Now, I have a wierd squealing sound coming from under the hood when idling. Could be a worn belt, but I don't think it's that old.

I also recently had the fuel pump module replaced because of the supply/return lines rusting and leaking and smelling gas vapors at the rear. The actual investigation results can be found here (http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/results.cfm?action_number=EA07009&SearchType=QuickSearch&summary=true). The GM Technical Service Bulletin Number is 10026522. There is a thread with a great write up here (http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=47921) if anyone is having problems with this too.

I'll post back and let eveyone know what I found out about my other bearing, which was purchased at Advanced Auto.

pdblues2231
09-28-2010, 04:13 PM
Hey,
Have you checked your tires... I replaced my bearing a while ago with the ones from MIBEARING and they work fine. I bought them there because they are made in USA, and am tired of cheap chinese yunk. About a month later i was hearing a whining noise while driving at speed over 40mph. So I went to the shop and guess what it was my tire. The 2 front tires were bad although the thread was very good, apparently the inner tire was not up to par. anyhow, I replaced all 4 tires and they noise is gone.
;)

Mazedave
10-04-2010, 11:00 AM
Did you buy the $128 or $189 priced bearings from mibearings?


Hey,
Have you checked your tires... I replaced my bearing a while ago with the ones from MIBEARING and they work fine. I bought them there because they are made in USA, and am tired of cheap chinese yunk. About a month later i was hearing a whining noise while driving at speed over 40mph. So I went to the shop and guess what it was my tire. The 2 front tires were bad although the thread was very good, apparently the inner tire was not up to par. anyhow, I replaced all 4 tires and they noise is gone.
;)

pdblues2231
10-04-2010, 05:20 PM
When I bought them they only had 2 option 4x4 or 2x4, I havent been on the site since then. And believe I paid 128 plus shipping, I bought them cause the were USA made. I have not had any problems, they are working fine.

jcjarhead
01-27-2011, 11:14 AM
I am hearing a slight WHOP, WHOP, WHOP noise in the cabin as I drive of late. The noise does not seem to affect performance and the noise is very faint. when I roll down the window to see if I can hear it louder....I can not. Nor am I sure this noise is new....I only started to notice it after the tie rods were replaced (3 weeks ago)....as I was listening intently to ensure there was no noise with that as after the tie rods were replaced....I had to wait a day or two for alignment...and something did rub as I would turn before the alignment. I think that is somewhat normal?

I am suspecting it may be the front passenger bearing based on reading this post and others on bearings. The noise seems to come from that side moreso.

I would think if something obivous on the suspension was defective....one of them (tie rods or alignment shop) would have noticed and said something?

I did just turn 100k not too long ago....but I wanted to get some feedback from this site before I start ordering parts. I would have done the wheel turn test...but its winter in Maine....so not so easy...and it also appears that even with that test....they could still be bad?

Any thoughts on possible other causes other than bearings? I did my best to describe the sound phoenetically...thus the WHOP, WHOP, WHOP above.:)

If it is bearings....I am going MADE IN THE USA with MIBEARINGS.

Thanks in advance!

pdblues2231
01-27-2011, 11:33 AM
well. That does sound like the bearing. Also do a search for how to test the bearing. Somewhere here it explains on how to get a better idea. As I posted previously I did replace mine with USA made and I have had no problems. Good luck.

jcjarhead
01-27-2011, 11:37 AM
Thanks PD!...will do....I appreciate your input on MIBEARINGS too....if only more of us would try and support our fellow Americans? I say it is cheaper often to spend more upfront; then to do it twice because of premature failure.

jcjarhead
02-01-2011, 05:10 PM
Just had my front passenger side done...indeed it was the bearings...other side was fine? Just wanted to check back in and confirm in case anyone else gets a case of the helicopter sound...particularly when going straight down the road. I didn't notice any increase in the sound when turning in either direction. Thanks to those who weighed in on this. I like to try and diagnose/confirm diagnosis so as to minimize undue part replacement and this forum is great for that!

Also a big THANK YOU to the folks at MI BEARINGS who were incredibly helpful over the phone and got me what I wanted in the blink of an eye...thus allowing me to slide into my local shop (the guy is great and usually at least a week back booked as he is actually honest!).

Always a pleasure doing biz with my fellow Americans and receiving quality Made in the USA parts in return!

e-iowa-o
02-02-2011, 04:32 AM
I just ordered a pair for my front end for less than $40 each. I figure they have to be as good as OEM, anyway. We'll see...

http://www.am-autoparts.com/2004/GMC...22/208730.html

ordered a pair for $78.14 w free shipping. (using retailmenot discount code to take an additional 5% off; C-AM00025)

:m2:

the roadie
02-02-2011, 10:00 AM
I figure they have to be as good as OEM, anyway. I would call that "false hope" syndrome. What evidence could you have that a $40 (shipped!) bearing could be anything but Chinese knock-off crap-ola? :confused:

I've been using recycled ones with low mileage because I go through them so fast offroad, but I just ordered one for $120 from MI Bearings to see what's up with alternate US vendors.

jcjarhead
02-03-2011, 10:54 AM
I am with you Roadie! I LOVE how on the MI Bearings site...they actually put "Made in USA," in parens beside those products manufactured here....I wish all parts outlets did that....quite a service to the more discriminating buyers amongst us!

I am sure there are many of us who are both patriotic and simply want what we deem higher quality products (Made in the USA). I would add that I have had much trouble with Asian parts that simply don't hold up. Don't even say Fan Clutch around me!:mad::)

I understand the same could happen with US made parts....but yet it simply does not seem to happen as much in my opinion. I defer to those more in the know than I....but I have to wonder if the quality control here is simply better? Remember, these are the same folks shipping us fake toothpaste wtih Mercury, toys with lead, pet food; what makes any of us think they do a better job with auto parts?

It also seems like the choice to even find US parts has become more difficult. Kudos to those who advertise their American made parts...lets see more of this please!

wwang14
03-17-2011, 02:50 PM
I began noticing the same increasing hum noise from my 05 TB Ext from the Driver's side. I didn't have the time or warm weather to attempt to replace it myself. However, my local Belle Tire dealer, who has treated me honestly and fairly did the complete job for ~$300 and included one hour labour. One nice thing is Belle Tire claims they will warranty the parts they sell/replace. Hopefully I won't have to test this claim.

I'm sure the right side bearing isn't too far behind and I may replace it this summer. If I do, I'll most likely order it from mibearing.com based on the positive responses I've read from the posts thus far.

Cheers and keep up the great communication!:D
Win

CdnSweets
04-16-2011, 02:33 AM
Hey Guys
First thing...great site and write ups!

I had the vibration and droning noise coming from my driver side when i turned right which from my past would prove to be the bearing... also had a bit of a shaky wheel too. so with the great tutorial on here I swapped out the hub no problem...there was no rubber ring on the one I replaced and definitely didnt hurt to remove and put a new one in.
Unfortunately even with the new hub the humming noise is still there but just not as bad when i turn right. i did notice a little oily stuff on the cv shaft but for the most part things seemed in order.

A little back ground, 2 days before having the vibration thing come up i had new tires installed, an alignment done and everything checked out. The mechanic that did the alignment didnt mention anything wrong from what he saw and he is a friend who would inform me for sure if he saw anything that wasn't correct.

What would be my next step? New hub is in, drives great going straight but makes small hum when turning right...so does anyone have some suggestions?
also should i check my differential fluid level would that have any affect on noises even though the suv is in 2 wheel drive when the vibration stuff happens?

thanks and again great site, glad i found it!

mwfaith1971
04-16-2011, 08:26 AM
Get the truck in the air and listen to the passengers side hub. If you can, get a mechanics stethoscope and use that. It's possible that that side also needs to be replaced.

A couple of us here have replaced what all the tests pointed to being the bad hub, turns out it was the other side.

Matt

the roadie
04-16-2011, 10:07 AM
also should i check my differential fluid level would that have any affect on noises even though the suv is in 2 wheel drive when the vibration stuff happens?In 2WD mode, the wheel bearings spin, so the CV shafts spin, so that spins up many (not all) parts inside the front differential. The only visible part that doesn't spin is the front driveshaft from the transfer case to the diff.

But it's NEVER a bad thing to check diff and transfer case fluid levels. And change the TC fluid every 50K since that's a surprisingly low mileage requirement that not all owners find in their manual.

Mazedave
04-16-2011, 09:25 PM
If bearing done, it may be the cv joints, on most cars this is a common sound in a turn. I have a trailblazer but probably similar structure.






Hey Guys
First thing...great site and write ups!

I had the vibration and droning noise coming from my driver side when i turned right which from my past would prove to be the bearing... also had a bit of a shaky wheel too. so with the great tutorial on here I swapped out the hub no problem...there was no rubber ring on the one I replaced and definitely didnt hurt to remove and put a new one in.
Unfortunately even with the new hub the humming noise is still there but just not as bad when i turn right. i did notice a little oily stuff on the cv shaft but for the most part things seemed in order.

A little back ground, 2 days before having the vibration thing come up i had new tires installed, an alignment done and everything checked out. The mechanic that did the alignment didnt mention anything wrong from what he saw and he is a friend who would inform me for sure if he saw anything that wasn't correct.

What would be my next step? New hub is in, drives great going straight but makes small hum when turning right...so does anyone have some suggestions?
also should i check my differential fluid level would that have any affect on noises even though the suv is in 2 wheel drive when the vibration stuff happens?

thanks and again great site, glad i found it!

mgretczko
10-31-2011, 07:08 PM
Yeah, so looks like I just set the record. my 2006 with 35,900 miles just had both front bearings go. anybody know of GM is honoring any kind of recall / defect on this? seems ridiculous at such low mileage.



UOTE=markarock;706857]You were lucky. They have been known to go bad at 37,000.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=54529

Not sure what the record is, but 37,000 has got to be pretty close. They should go 150k-200k.[/QUOTE]

Mazedave
10-31-2011, 09:08 PM
Yeah, so looks like I just set the record. my 2006 with 35,900 miles just had both front bearings go. anybody know of GM is honoring any kind of recall / defect on this? seems ridiculous at such low mileage.



UOTE=markarock;706857]You were lucky. They have been known to go bad at 37,000.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=54529

Not sure what the record is, but 37,000 has got to be pretty close. They should go 150k-200k.[/QUOTE]


My left only went at about 147K, But I am at my second tranny rebuild, one at 115k now again at 160k.
Good shop, crappy tranny (04 TB 4x4)
Glad I am a mechanic, it is a constant challenge.
Best to ya!

mgretczko
11-01-2011, 12:22 PM
My left only went at about 147K, But I am at my second tranny rebuild, one at 115k now again at 160k.
Good shop, crappy tranny (04 TB 4x4)
Glad I am a mechanic, it is a constant challenge.
Best to ya![/QUOTE]

Thanks for the well wishes. my family owns a shop too, so wasn't too bad... now just fingers crossed for what's next. luckily i love the vehicle.

InRBigness
11-03-2011, 01:37 PM
I sort of feel bad for posting this but I thought I would throw it out there. I just ordered both hubs from WBI Bearings as no point doing one and not the other. I have no issues with the GMC ones that came on my 2002 Envoy as I just passed 245,000 km's. The front end on this truck has been amazing as I have done ball joints and A arm bushings and thats all.

My previous Jimmy was a non stop college support system for the guy who owned the parts shop. Sadly, doing the bearings to safety the vehicle so I can sell it.

e-iowa-o
01-01-2013, 06:17 AM
I replaced both front hubs in February 2011. I used the cheapo ones from www.amautoparts.com and they both are starting to hum, left a little worse than right. I'm pretty satisfied with that amount of longevity.

I'm going to go with the same ones again I guess :m2: