transmission shift linkage cable replacement? [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: transmission shift linkage cable replacement?


cgoodwin
06-20-2009, 02:54 PM
The bushing at the transmission is worn/gone to the point the cable comes off the transmission and will leave the transmission in whatever gear you were in unless you crawl under and manually move the lever to park etc.

I have the transmission shifter cable and just need guidelines on the installation of the new cable. Seems straight forward, but never hurts to ask before starting.

This is a 2004 trailblazer ext with automatic transmission.

av18951
09-09-2009, 09:01 AM
Did you ever get a response? I have a TB aswell and it did the same thing.
The plastic ring in the black plastic rectangular piece was broken.

I did buy some plastic shifting linkage pieces (in the help section of autozone) and one did actually fit on the pin and lock. I will try to put it inside the black plastic tranny linkage and hope it works.

I will post up results as soon as possible.

super2
09-12-2009, 06:10 PM
Same problem here...actually happened on our annual family outing :rolleyes:. I was told by the dealer that the entire cable had to be replaced...was able to get back on the road by securing the linkage with wire. Like to know if the plastic from autozone work...and how did you find the proper size...just trial and error in the parking lot of Autozone (crawling under the truck)?

av18951
09-12-2009, 08:06 PM
Yea trial and error pretty much. We were lucky it happened to break in our garage. The plastic linkage pieces are in the help section at autozone or advance auto parts. there was one that fit but it had a lip on it so i cut it off with scissors and it snapped in place. Good luck, it is a pain in the butt....also in case you did not know (i didnt) if it gets stuck in gear just jack up the truck and hit the lever towards the front of the truck. it will put it in park for you. I was scared as heck for 10 minutes thinking my truck was stuck in reverse! good luck

super2
09-13-2009, 05:31 PM
Ok. ill take a ride over to Autozone tomorrow. See if i can find what u are talking about.
Thanks again

Update..just got back; wondering if this was the same item that you had purchased?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2462/3919309443_d22146bb29.jpg


im actually thinking something like this is the proper item...darn..i dont think they had that!
https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/vm91corp30r/item-dtl.w?sid=DijdcdfMdljpdlua011542514561151145&item=74045&icrid=&clt=hwrap1&vsrch_str=Shift%20Linkage&vsrch_brand=ALL&vsrch_cat=ALL&st_amount=&end_amount=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0

antdogg310
10-22-2009, 03:52 PM
Hello cgoodwin, I came across the same problem yesterday, I was wondering did you ever replace the shift cable? I looked on here and it seems no one has done it. Can you please give me some info on what I have to do? Thank you

The bushing at the transmission is worn/gone to the point the cable comes off the transmission and will leave the transmission in whatever gear you were in unless you crawl under and manually move the lever to park etc.

I have the transmission shifter cable and just need guidelines on the installation of the new cable. Seems straight forward, but never hurts to ask before starting.

This is a 2004 trailblazer ext with automatic transmission.

Bruces 57
05-21-2010, 08:51 PM
Hello;
I posted later on. You are all in luck! Im going to do mine tomorrow but I have been looking over the info I received (Chiltons Manual) and although it doesn't cover little details it seems pretty straight foreward.
Of course it starts with dis connecting the battery. for the next steps you will need a small metric socket, phillips screwdriver and a couple slot blade (regular) screwdrivers.
Take out the inside compartment in the console (6 Philipps screws) at first I couldn't see the screws (all of them) untill I took the little rubber inserts out.Lift out the compartment. Now, under that compartment there are two small screws with metric heads, I just used my 1/4" socket set with two long extensions, now, you have to remove the two cup holders in front and you will find two more metric headed screws (something the Chilton left out).
Next, using the small star end on a nut driver handle, remove the set screw in the base of the shifter knob (drivers side) and remove the knob and shift boot. Next, remove the console, you might have to un plug some of the wires I'm not going to unless I really have to! Now the end of the shift cable will be visable in front of the shifter.
Make sure the shifter in the Park position.
Jack up the car (I call my TB a car?) and make sure it isn't going anywhere by placing blocks in back of the rear wheels. Time to get grimey! crawl under and locate the cable end at the transmission, and using a flat blade screwdriver, seporate (pry) the end of the cable off the end of the trans lever (which has a locking ball on it) then next the cable assembly will be held in a bracket, you have to locate a clip near the end and pry it down to free the cable from the bracket. Now follow the cable to where it enters the floor, there is a rubber boot (part of the cable) the pushes out under the carpet.
You might have to pry up the pieces on the drivers door entrance to free up the carpet. Next, you use a screwdriver (Slot head) to pry the cable off of the shifter end (should have a retaining ball like the trans did). Pull the cable out and get ready to put the new one in.
Installation should go reverse of the removal with the exception of making sure the shifter inside is in park as well as the transmission lever.
You will notice a small clip (trans end of the cable) with with a sliding locking clip. this should be down untill you get the cable hooked up then press it up and slide the lock over it. DONE! (except for putting it back together)
Hope this helps anyone having to do this job.

Bruces 57

rb915
08-06-2010, 10:40 AM
I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

es1822
08-26-2010, 05:45 PM
I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

This was a life saver, Thanks!

GunnerM14
09-26-2010, 07:25 PM
Hello;
I posted later on. You are all in luck! Im going to do mine tomorrow but I have been looking over the info I received (Chiltons Manual) and although it doesn't cover little details it seems pretty straight foreward.
Of course it starts with dis connecting the battery. for the next steps you will need a small metric socket, phillips screwdriver and a couple slot blade (regular) screwdrivers.
Take out the inside compartment in the console (6 Philipps screws) at first I couldn't see the screws (all of them) untill I took the little rubber inserts out.Lift out the compartment. Now, under that compartment there are two small screws with metric heads, I just used my 1/4" socket set with two long extensions, now, you have to remove the two cup holders in front and you will find two more metric headed screws (something the Chilton left out).
Next, using the small star end on a nut driver handle, remove the set screw in the base of the shifter knob (drivers side) and remove the knob and shift boot. Next, remove the console, you might have to un plug some of the wires I'm not going to unless I really have to! Now the end of the shift cable will be visable in front of the shifter.
Make sure the shifter in the Park position.
Jack up the car (I call my TB a car?) and make sure it isn't going anywhere by placing blocks in back of the rear wheels. Time to get grimey! crawl under and locate the cable end at the transmission, and using a flat blade screwdriver, seporate (pry) the end of the cable off the end of the trans lever (which has a locking ball on it) then next the cable assembly will be held in a bracket, you have to locate a clip near the end and pry it down to free the cable from the bracket. Now follow the cable to where it enters the floor, there is a rubber boot (part of the cable) the pushes out under the carpet.
You might have to pry up the pieces on the drivers door entrance to free up the carpet. Next, you use a screwdriver (Slot head) to pry the cable off of the shifter end (should have a retaining ball like the trans did). Pull the cable out and get ready to put the new one in.
Installation should go reverse of the removal with the exception of making sure the shifter inside is in park as well as the transmission lever.
You will notice a small clip (trans end of the cable) with with a sliding locking clip. this should be down untill you get the cable hooked up then press it up and slide the lock over it. DONE! (except for putting it back together)
Hope this helps anyone having to do this job.

Bruces 57

I just got finished putting a new cable in on our 2003 TrailBlazer.

I have to credit you, Bruce 57 with an outstanding description of the process!

Thank you for taking the time to put that all down in a post.

freddb3
04-15-2011, 05:53 PM
Here's an updated link for the 92-09 GMC Envoy Shifter Cable Repair Pin kit

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_219&products_id=569&zenid=dbdi20fc3ehrlsafemgidpsu94

romanoxe
06-20-2011, 04:58 PM
Thanks to all. The link is a great money saver. Mine just broke last week and my wife had to go on a trip. I was able to pop out the small bushing and flip it over, and with the help of two tie wraps securing the cable to the shift linkage she was able to make the trip. I am about to order the part.

rbailey1983
08-16-2011, 10:32 AM
I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

Hi the link to the website is no longer working is there a way you could direct me to another site with this part? Thanks

notents
08-17-2011, 11:30 AM
Automatic Transmission Factory
www.atfspeed.com/

I just received my pins (there were two in the package) to replace the broken bushing at the end of my shift cable. I had to slightly enlarge the opening in the end of the plastic shift cable, which was easily accomplished with a drill bit. Installation was straightforward and easy. Watch the video on their website for instructions, and don't hesitate to call them. They were very helpful on the phone.

Saved me a bunch of time and money by using this replacement pin. Should have been designed by the factory like this.

the roadie
08-17-2011, 12:01 PM
Welcome, notents! And thanks for the detail. Don't think I've ever seen a longer delay from join date to first post, but glad you joined the party! :thumbsup:

rbailey1983
08-17-2011, 12:24 PM
Automatic Transmission Factory
www.atfspeed.com/

I just received my pins (there were two in the package) to replace the broken bushing at the end of my shift cable. I had to slightly enlarge the opening in the end of the plastic shift cable, which was easily accomplished with a drill bit. Installation was straightforward and easy. Watch the video on their website for instructions, and don't hesitate to call them. They were very helpful on the phone.

Saved me a bunch of time and money by using this replacement pin. Should have been designed by the factory like this.

OK thanks I will take a look at this video and let you again thanks.

rbailey1983
08-17-2011, 01:46 PM
Automatic Transmission Factory
www.atfspeed.com/

I just received my pins (there were two in the package) to replace the broken bushing at the end of my shift cable. I had to slightly enlarge the opening in the end of the plastic shift cable, which was easily accomplished with a drill bit. Installation was straightforward and easy. Watch the video on their website for instructions, and don't hesitate to call them. They were very helpful on the phone.

Saved me a bunch of time and money by using this replacement pin. Should have been designed by the factory like this.

Just a quick question I did order the part and I watched the video, it seemed easy but was it esay to get the head out of the shifter cable pin, I saw were the gut grinded it down and popped it out. Was that nessary?

Ryman997
08-28-2011, 11:18 AM
I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

Have the same problem with my sons TB, could you please repost the link, it's not working....old I guess.

the roadie
08-28-2011, 11:36 AM
Old links can be tracked down by editing the URL to start at the main page, and seeing what's there and poking about.

In this case, look here:

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21

Ryman997
08-28-2011, 11:42 AM
Old links can be tracked down by editing the URL to start at the main page, and seeing what's there and poking about.

In this case, look here:

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21

Thaanks for the quick responce Roadie!!

Ryman's Dad

unotme
09-15-2011, 04:28 PM
s/h a little high, but works out great. 30 min. or less. I don't think the E-clip will fall off.

richardr
10-20-2011, 09:07 PM
The bushing at the transmission is worn/gone to the point the cable comes off the transmission and will leave the transmission in whatever gear you were in unless you crawl under and manually move the lever to park etc.

I have the transmission shifter cable and just need guidelines on the installation of the new cable. Seems straight forward, but never hurts to ask before starting.

This is a 2004 trailblazer ext with automatic transmission.

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=569

globalkrazyness
12-12-2011, 11:40 AM
I live close to the ATF and picked it up locally... here are some before and after pics...
BEFORE:
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1329.jpg
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1327.jpg


AFTER:
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1330.jpg
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1331.jpg

unotme
12-12-2011, 01:39 PM
I see you left your linkage arm the same direction. My directions stated to flip it over when reinstalling to the trans. It works that is all the matters. Good pic.

globalkrazyness
12-12-2011, 02:50 PM
Are you talking about the arm attached to the trans. with the 15mm nut? If you flip it then the orientation in relation to the cable is way off and you cant get the linkage back in place... at least that's how mine was. Thanks for the props on the pics...

globalkrazyness
12-12-2011, 03:19 PM
OK I am alil OCD but I just had to find out if I had messed up...

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1342.jpg

Unless I am mistaking, :undecided according to the directions the "staked" side is the side that gets ground and is also the side that's toward the pan, so basically it stays oriented the same way.

unotme
12-12-2011, 06:26 PM
Step6: reinstall lever on transmission making sure ground on side is toward the trans pan. Your cable is installed correct but the lever on the trans. needs to be flipped over. That is what I did on mine and it lines up straight. In the video it shows grinding the outside (stacked/short) end of the lever. I'm like ok, so I did call ATF before putting it on. He told me to install it that way (basically backwards).

globalkrazyness
12-13-2011, 11:35 PM
unotme: If its not to much trouble can you snap a pic of it so i can see what its supposed to look like?? Thanks

eallanboggs
04-07-2012, 09:43 PM
I wish I had known about this pin before removing the console. What a waste of time. That thing is a PITA. This pin turns a 3 hour job into 15 minutes. Now I still have to put the console back in. If you don't go the pin route you're torturing yourself. Besides the pin is stronger than the plastic bushing.

acreewood
04-15-2012, 03:38 PM
After looking around, I found out that the shifter bushing is available on Ebay o(of all places). And there is no need to grind anything off, I think it is still around 7 bucks or so.

eallanboggs
04-15-2012, 09:50 PM
Grinding it wasn't that bad. The pin is in and the trans shifts good again. The pin will outlast the transmission. The bushing is going to fail again, but I will have to admit this on lasted 8 yrs. When I called the Chevy dealer and gave him the part number for the cable the parts guy immediately asked if the cable came off of the trans. I asked how he knew that BEFORE I told him. He went silent. I asked if this was a common problem since he knew what I needed before I even finished my sentence. He said "Not really". I said "Yeah, right and I'll bet you have the Power Ball numbers too". The console wasn't as bad putting it back as it was taking it out. I had it at the shop because it came in on the hook so I was able to look at Alldata to get some help. When I took it out I was in a parking lot in front of Family Dollar. Not the best for working on cars. I did drill a small hole in the pass side of the console directly in line with the interlock solenoid and put a cap on it. If it ever fails or the circuit or brake lite switch has a problem you can take the cap off and push the button on the solenoid in to get the truck to shift. Something extra a do for my customers which GM should have done at the factory. You have to remove the console to push that button in without the hole I drilled. It's will be a real life saver if they have a shift problem in the future.

The Moderator
05-14-2012, 11:10 PM
The bushing can be bought for approximately $10 including s & h on E-bay. To avoid many false returns, use the GM part number and description (part name) in the search field. The e-mail address of one seller is as follows:

ieshouston(at)yahoo.com

Use the ampersand symbol in place of the word "at" when sending an e-mail.

The Moderator
05-15-2012, 12:18 AM
The problem is the bushing inside the end of the gearshift cable has worn or broken to the point the cable has come off the stud which is in the transmission linkage. A replacement bushing can be found on E-bay or by e-mailing a seller at the following address:

ieshouston(at)yahoo.com

Use the ampersand symbol in place of the word "at" when sending an e-mail.

The cost is approximately $10 including s & h.

nunderwood
05-31-2012, 04:15 PM
[QUOTE=globalkrazyness;1151290]OK I am alil OCD but I just had to find out if I had messed up...

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1342.jpg

Unless I am mistaking, :undecided according to the directions the "staked" side is the side that gets ground and is also the side that's toward the pan, so basically it stays oriented the same way.[/QUOTE

First of all, I thank you guys for the helpfull posts. The ATF replacement pin is the way to go!!! I removed the lever and ground the "backside" of the existing pin (the flat portion which is located on the outside = the side away from the tranny). I used a punch to remove the existing pin, reinstalled the new pin with the arm in the factory installed orientation (did not flip it) and all is great!

zaaronz
06-05-2012, 12:19 PM
The problem is the bushing inside the end of the gearshift cable has worn or broken to the point the cable has come off the stud which is in the transmission linkage. A replacement bushing can be found on E-bay or by e-mailing a seller at the following address:

ieshouston(at)yahoo.com

Use the ampersand symbol in place of the word "at" when sending an e-mail.

The cost is approximately $10 including s & h.

I bought one from this seller- and its no good. I dont know if i got a bad one or what but it doesnt work. I slid it on the selector and it has no "click" to it, like its not fitting tight enough- so it will just slide right off. Its on as far as it goes and i tried flipping it the other way but still doesnt have enough hold. Its as if its made from to soft of material or the ring on the inside isnt big enough. Either way my old bushing has one side broke off, and flipping it around and re-installing it holds 10x better than this new bushing from eBay. So i guess i'll be ordering the repair pin/clip kit as previously posted-that seems much better. I just figured i'd post my results from the ebay bushing, Its getting mentioned that its sold but i had no luck with the end results.

The Moderator
06-05-2012, 02:30 PM
There is no "click" to it as you said because the bushing is rubber, not plastic or metal. First, you must lubricate the bushing and cable slot.

Next, insert the bushing into the cable end, not onto the linkage stud. Be sure to push the bushing completely into and past one side of the cable end bushing "hole". That allows the end of the bushing to extend past the outside edge and avoid sliding back inside.

Next, push from the opposite direction to extend the bushing past the outside edge going the other direction. That stretches the bushing to extend past the other side of the cable "hole". Once you have extended both rolled ends or "flanges" past both edges of the cable, the bushing should stay in place.

zaaronz
06-05-2012, 03:05 PM
well i guess before i give up on it, i'll try that. Those instructions sound much better than the seller's/ Here what he had for instructions "To install this bushing is not even necessary to remove the cable from its location. It is just a matter of removing all the bits of the old split up plastic bushing and install the new one in to the cable's end eyelet, then insert the eyelet into the selector pull, apply a drop of RTV silicon on top of selector's pull ball if desired and that's it."
After asking for help- he basically told me to do the same this i just wrote but add a dab of silicon caulk?

The Moderator
06-05-2012, 08:32 PM
I would not use caulk of any type as it will dry and prevent free rotation of the bushing which will cause friction and deterioration as has already occurred with the original. I used transgel because it does not dry out readily and acts as a lubricant.

zaaronz
06-05-2012, 08:35 PM
I would not use caulk of any type as it will dry and prevent free rotation of the bushing which will cause friction and deterioration as has already occurred with the original. I used transgel because it does not dry out readily and acts as a lubricant.

I know better than to do that- my point was that it was a little strange for the seller to tell me that. On a side note- i again tried the bushing and its very clear its not going to hold, But like i said before maybe i got a bad one. After this experience with the seller and part, i wouldnt try another tho- just ordered the pin/clip.

streetglider6
07-14-2012, 06:29 PM
I, too have had the problem with pin, linkage etc. It amazes me how many of you say that it was easy (example 30 minutes) etc. Fact of the matter is, I am a mechanic and it took me roughly 5 1/2 hours to fix!! Yes, I got the pin from ATF in Florida. Great deal for rough $20. The labor however was extensive. In an earlier post, I see someone included the instructions from ATF. It says clearly to grind flush and knock out pin. Yep, RIGHT!! In a perfect world. Problem is dependent upon which set up or should I say bracket you have, which depends on if you need to grind or NOT!!!! I had to pull mine off and grind the bracket several times (5 to be exact) before I could eventually get the e-clip to lock in. Don't get me wrong! This is a great Forum and Website with good people and Trailvoy Owners, but I think you all need to be a bit more realistic concerning easy install. Good thing I knew what I was doing, what was going on and how to remedy it cause I am sure the novice would have been quite frustrated, quit hours ago, and had their vehicle towed somewhere for repair! Just Sayin'

streetglider6
07-14-2012, 06:33 PM
I wish I had known about this pin before removing the console. What a waste of time. That thing is a PITA. This pin turns a 3 hour job into 15 minutes. Now I still have to put the console back in. If you don't go the pin route you're torturing yourself. Besides the pin is stronger than the plastic bushing. Don't be FOOLED! It could still be a PITA depending on set-up:mad:

Ikegs
07-26-2012, 09:22 AM
It was finally my turn! Daughter had car (2002 Envoy)120 miles away parked in a parking lot at a Mall. When she returned to the car it wouldn't go in gear. Towed to a garage (thank goodness for AAA) where the mechanic was very kind, wired the pin back to the lever and told her about the ATF kit. I ordered the kit ($19.95 plus $10.05 shipping) and installed it per their instructions this morning. I am Not a mechanic and it took about 30 minutes and works perfectly. Many Thanks to everyone here for the advice!!

Bob Rutledge
08-01-2012, 08:17 PM
Ordered my replacement pin today. Hopefully all will go well and it will be a 30 minute fix for me. Will let you know.

dewel919
08-04-2012, 09:15 PM
My uncle is a mechanic, and stated that most all cars with the plastic linkage clip will break at some point. My 02 TB linkage broke yesterday. Will have pic of repair with a $1.00 bolt and washer, never to come apart again. :cool::cool::thx

Bob Rutledge
08-22-2012, 12:44 PM
It was an easy fix. Alot of grinding though as you don't grind down the back side, you grind down the side with the ball that the grommet fits on. I tried grinding down the back first and was not able to knock out the pressed in piece. Once I ground down the correct piece it only took one swing of the hammer. Painted it up and reinstalled.

SledgeHammer64
09-23-2012, 12:21 PM
I appreciate all of the info on this subject and it was useful in formulating my response to the problem. This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down.

1. Purchase universal clevis pin, two washers, cotter pin at local hardware store for $1.80.
1. Remove the shift lever arm.
2. Using a drill press, no grinding, dill out the original bushing pin.
3. Install the pin to see how much of pin has to go, four holes on mine.
4. Cut off end ot pin.
5. Install and drop the vehicle.

This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down. Ok maybe 30 if you include the tip to the hardware store.

I have photos, but can't upload them for some reason. It took 20minutes to do the job and 2hours to try and post it.

SledgeHammer64
09-23-2012, 12:37 PM
I appreciate all of the info on this subject and it was useful in formulating my response to the problem. This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down.

1. Purchase universal clevis pin, two washers, cotter pin at local hardware store for $1.80.
1. Remove the shift lever arm.
2. Using a drill press, no grinding, dill out the original bushing pin.
3. Install the pin to see how much of pin has to go, four holes on mine.
4. Cut off end ot pin.
5. Install and drop the vehicle.

This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down. Ok maybe 30 if you include the tip to the hardware store.

Rsqmedic
09-28-2012, 07:04 PM
What diameter clevis and size washers did you use?

ruffrider99
10-21-2012, 03:57 PM
MY turn today. Just backed into my driveway, put it in park, decided to move it another foot and....nothing!!! Im just glad it was in park when it happened. Ordered the part from ATF and will install it Wed.

When this first happened I thought something electronically went wrong. Usually when something fails with me its never a cheap replacement part. Even ran the OB scanner but had no codes. Glad you guys posted about this simple fix. :duh:

ruffrider99
10-25-2012, 01:25 PM
Well, I thought it would be here by Wed. Its Thursday and no part in the mail. Tracking shows its a little off course. Shipment should never have left Florida yet tracking shows it departed Atlanta 2 different times. If its not here by tomorrow then ill just rig up a bolt for it and send the new part back if it ever arrives.


Yay...it finally shows out for delivery. Waiting here impatiently for my mailman. Paying for priority mail and having it take 5 days to deliver is wrong. Not ATF's fault here but it was a bit frustrating waiting for it while the TB was on jacks.

ruffrider99
10-26-2012, 03:28 PM
Part finally arrived after 5 days of transit. Took me all of maybe 20 minutes to complete. One person noted that he had to drill out the opening in the cable housing slightly to get the pin to seat. All I used was a pair of long needle nose pliers and squeezed it in place. Hardest thing for me to install was the dang circlip. A combination of working upside down, big hands, small clip and bi-focal glasses made it interesting:duh:. A shot of cable lube on the joint and all is well.

jj331
10-30-2012, 04:46 PM
I had a rude surprise when I arrived home the other night. I parked the TB, and when I took my foot off the brake, it started rolling back down the driveway. It was in neutral. Shift lever was stuck, which threw me off at first.... Crawled under the car to look. Turns out when my tranny was rebuilt last summer, the bushing must have disintegrated when they were working on it. Instead of waiting for a new one, they rigged it with two zip ties, one of which broke.

I put the car in park from underneath. Today, I drove it to school. I'm taking machine classes, so I knew I could make something to fix it. We took the actuator off the tranny that connects to the cable end. I ground off the head and punched out the pin that connects it to the cable. This leaves a hole about .266. The recommended tap drill for 5/16" turns out to be .281. I tapped the hole for 5/16". I intended to find something and turn it down to the diameter the bushing needed to be, but an instructor told me they used to use pipe for bushings in the oil field. He and I went to the hardware store and found out that 1/8" brass pipe has an OD of .410. The hole where the bushing fits is .425.... close enough. We found a fitting that was about 2" long that was threaded on both ends. Drilled it out to 5/16" and cut it down to the thickness of the plastic cable end, which also turns out to be .425". Okay, so I put a washer between the head of the bolt and the lever, screwed it in, and put the lever back on the tranny. Next, put the bushing on the bolt and slide the cable end onto the bushing. Another washer on the bolt, and a locknut on the end, and it's done. I doubt this bushing will wear out before the truck does! I could have done the same thing with a drill press and a saw, but having a lathe handy helps, lol. :woohoo:

blainenbecky
03-12-2013, 04:25 PM
just added my own little project to this thread as some one shared this thread with me and help me out with getting my old trail blazer going,thanks for in input you guys did on this thread it was a big help.

took a few pics of what I did to fix it today and thought I would share the images of the process .
after reading the link you gave me to check out I went to auto-zone and found the pack of bushings you see in the pic below,
but as the guy in the other thread said the bushing did not fit so I broke out my dremel tool and started grinding away at the excess and I had to thin down the flange a bit to get it to snap in to place
well now the old girl is back on the road
thanks again for the link

http://i.imgur.com/tJ13ObJ.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/tJ13ObJ) http://i.imgur.com/dEiIBUw.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/dEiIBUw)

http://i.imgur.com/zbEFwTR.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/zbEFwTR) http://i.imgur.com/6xs24fN.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/6xs24fN)

http://i.imgur.com/TMCjS66.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/TMCjS66)

rmcfadin
03-25-2013, 01:44 PM
What BS that GM uses such a cheap bushing to save money, but, the repair part would be too cheap to sell, what would profit be on 50 cents? Anyway, I did replace the shift control cable today due to the bushing failure and no time to wait for the pin in the mail. I harvested the good bushing from the cable that I removed. I'll send it to you if you pay the postage, or, if you're in NW Florida, you can come get it. No reason to keep it, I hope, and don't mind helping. OH, New here, guess this is my way of saying hello. Maybe email me if you're interested.

camaroonus
05-20-2013, 10:32 PM
Bump!
The autozone bushing worked for me, just take your time with the dremel....

2And4wheeler
06-05-2013, 03:27 PM
What I have read on this is great, I had to replace my cable about a year ago, couldn't quite remember how it was done, read thru the replys and it rejared my memory. Have to replace or modify the cable on my Pastors TB so he won't be w/o wheels. Thanks to all.
2And4 wheeler

njezrider
07-08-2013, 01:21 PM
Its my turn. After a AAA tow I will be working on it tonight.

I hope mine goes as smooth as all yours did. Thanks for the details and photos.

Joel1
07-08-2013, 10:45 PM
The 14041 pack of bushings worked for me too. They are a Dorman item and are at almost any autoparts store. You do have to take off a lot of material with the dremel. Both on the main surface and the flange to reduce outer diameters. After that, a perfect fit.

The first one lasted 9 years and only broke because I snagged the transmission pan on it, so if this one lasts another 9 that should be good enough.

BrianakaLO
07-13-2013, 01:28 AM
Mine broke today at a local gas station. Going to try a temporary fix tomorrow until I get proper kit from atf

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App (http://www.autoguide.com/mobile)

Steve68
07-21-2013, 11:07 PM
Drove to the keys today, mines now broke in the parking lot of the motel, made a new bushing out of electrical tape, then off to NAPA, see if I can rig something to get back to central FL,

And there's a Ace down the road too!

clemens70
07-29-2013, 05:23 PM
This turned into a quick, easy and CHEAP Repair! Fixed for $3 and 45 min of time (including trip to ACE), and included a backup repair kit incase it happens again!

Steve68
07-29-2013, 06:16 PM
Spent 4.95 at a hardware store in Marathon, that was for some extra parts too, used a drill and rid myself of GM's pin, then put it all together with a clevis pin 2 rubber bushings and SS washers, and a SS cotter pin, everything works great, came home Friday drove it all week there, home and on Saturday, no problems!! pics to follow,

Fowler
08-12-2013, 12:35 AM
Hello to all. I am Fowler from Charlotte NC. Now stuck in Niagara Falls Canada.

I'm a newbie and I appreciate all of the posts about the shift cable end piece.

Mine is "stuck " in Reverse and the release button on the shift lever will not push in. Is this common when the cable end piece is off of the lever or is this an indication of a different problem.

Thanks in advance Fowler

HotMods
08-14-2013, 11:44 PM
Hello to all. I am Fowler from Charlotte NC. Now stuck in Niagara Falls Canada.

I'm a newbie and I appreciate all of the posts about the shift cable end piece.

Mine is "stuck " in Reverse and the release button on the shift lever will not push in. Is this common when the cable end piece is off of the lever or is this an indication of a different problem.

Thanks in advance Fowler

Not sure if you got your answer but read through this thread and it will most likely be that the pin broke that holds the cable to the shifter. It happened to me just last night in my 04 Envoy XUV. I looked under the XUV, right below the shifter and saw the cable dangling there. It was as easy as moving the shifter lever to the cable and it was back in Park. I got it restarted and with some Electrical tape to hold it together, got back home. I don't think that will get you all the way from Niagara Falls to NC, but you could follow the advice of several on here to fix it. I am going to ATF Route and have ordered the part located here. http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_219&zenid=736hfoqi9j7drb6dfbt0d77sv2. The others right above your post give you immediate ways to remedy by going to Auto Parts store.

But you most likely don't have to have the entire cable fixed, just the pin. Good luck getting back home to NC. I am from NC as well.

04ChevyTbLs
08-15-2013, 10:25 AM
Automatic Transmission Range Selector Cable Replacement

1 Ensure that the vehicle is in the park position.
2 Raise the vehicle.
3 Remove the end of the range selector cable from the transmission range selector lever ball stud (6).
4 Remove the retainer (5) from the range selector cable.
5 Remove the range selector cable (4) from the bracket (1)
6 Remove the cable from the retainer (3) on the floor panel. If the vehicle is equipped with 4WD, remove the cable from the retainers located on the transfer case.
7 Push the cable grommet (2) up through the floor panel.
8 Lower the vehicle.
9 Remove the console.
10 Remove the drivers side front mat and carpet.
11 Remove the end of the range selector cable (1) from the floor control ball stud.
12 Remove the range selector cable (2) from the floor shift control assembly.
13 Remove the tape and grommet on the shift cable from the floor panel.
14 Remove the range selector cable (3) from the vehicle.


Install

1 Push the cable down through the floor panel and install the grommet (2).
2 Install the range selector cable (2) to the floor shift control assembly.
3 Install the end of the range selector cable (1) to floor control ball stud.
4 Install the drivers side front mat and carpet.
5 Install the console.
6 Raise the vehicle.
7 Install the cable to the retainer (3) on the floor panel. If the vehicle is equipped with 4WD, install the cable to the retainers located on the transfer case.
8 Install the range selector cable (4) to the bracket (1).
9 Install the retainer (5) to the range selector cable.
10 Install the end of the range selector cable to the transmission range selector lever ball stud (6).
11 Adjust the range selector cable.
12 Lower the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Fowler
08-17-2013, 02:59 PM
While being unlucky that the transmission shift cable broke on Sunday evening, I was lucky that it happened in the parking lot of the hotel in Niagara Falls Canada where we were staying. CAA (Canadian Automobile Association) honors AAA membership and they came Monday morning and first shifted the transmission into Park from underneath the car and after the car was running he shifted it back into reverse so I could back out of the parking space. Then he went under again and shifted it into Drive so that I could follow him to the dealership. This was easier for him than putting the car on the dolly since mine is a 4WD.
Except for the replacement cost ($425) things went smooth at the dealership. My wife and I had already paid for tickets on a jet boat that goes through the rapids downstream of the falls. She wanted to take the dealership’s offer of shuttle service but I chose to stay with the car. In the end all was OK in that we were able to get the car and transfer our tickets to a 3:30 boat ride. Please see the attached photos. I think that my problem was the broken tube shown in #1976. I think the mechanic likely broke the fitting shown inn #1776 removing the cable end.
Thanks for all of the suggestions but it looks like my failure is not the typical end fitting failure. Fowler

XXXUV
09-05-2013, 09:47 AM
The 14041 pack off bushings worked perfectly. My receipt shows I walked out out the door at 6:11 last night. After 20 minutes I was driving again. This project cost me $5. When I called the part store they ash course state that this bushing is a dealer only item. I call the dealer who says I have to buy the entire cable assembly. So I checked this thread and fixed the problem inn less time than I sat on hold with the dealer. Great information. Solid fix.

eljefe007
09-18-2013, 04:51 PM
What I did was different from everyone else.


1) I went ahead and removed the rocker arm attached to the transmission and drill the pin out.

2) Used a 1/4" x 1.25" length bolt (qty1), nuts (qty 2) and 1/4" washers (qty 3).

3) Since the cable hole is around 7/16"ID, I went ahead and bought a metal bushing that fits into the 1/4" bolt and into the cable hole.

4) Assembled bolt/nuts combo with washers outside and in-between rocker arm and cable.

5) Use 2 nuts to endure that the bolt/nuts combo don't come loose. See picture below that I copied.


Total time 3 minutes.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/04/e7e3yqeh.jpg

neilLTZ
10-23-2013, 10:04 AM
Does anybody know where you can get a new (4 prong) gray clip that goes there on the sliding adjustment of the DURA linkage assembly? The gray clip has tiny teeth on it that locks the cable length adjustment in place...then the black sliding clip goes over it to lock it in place.

I had mine off and accidentally broke it. Kinda in a bind now as I cant put my cable back together. Is that a dealer part? Or unavailable unless you buy a whole new cable.

Joel1
10-24-2013, 12:36 AM
You have to get the whole cable from the dealer. I'd go to a junkyard to get it or try fixing the gray piece in place with a ziptie if you can. Many GM cars have this transmission and likely have a similar cable with the same head/connectors.

nmcgoogan
05-05-2014, 06:04 PM
Ok.. so replaced the grommet with the 14041 part. Gave it a quick spin and all seemed good. Picked up my wife and proudly delivered her to her repaired vehicle.

She went to leave work and the car wouldn't start. Troubleshooting over the phone, turns out the car was stuck in reverse. Won't go all the way to park. I get there and put it in park from underneath... start it up and drive home no longer feeling like the hero.

Cable is still attached... shifts into gear fine... but now won't go all the way back into park... ideas? Thanks

Joel1
05-05-2014, 10:20 PM
Was there too much slack in the cable or was it tight with the lever on R while the shifter was in P? Did you have to disconnect the cable to push the lever?

Look at post #68 a few above. The end piece you see in the photo has an adjustment spring in it, you can see it in the opening. To adjust you have to pull out the black lock then the gray piece can be moved to adjust the spring compression and the length of the cable assembly. I think someone explained more details on how to do it in another thread if you search. I wouldn't think you need to adjust the length unless you messed with it when you added the bushing...

nmcgoogan
05-06-2014, 12:33 PM
It appears in fooling around with it the cable, I broke the plastic piece that holds what looks like a rubber accordion boot in place. Turns out that's a bad thing lol. I zip-tied it back in place and problem solved. Guess it works like a wire guide, not just a dirt cover...

http://i58.tinypic.com/9jpov6.jpg

Starting my search for that part number.. Sure I'll need a whole new cable now. :duh:

coderedave
06-06-2014, 06:45 PM
Hi All,

I had this same problem happen to me on my '03 Trailblazer. Thanks to all who posted their solutions for this from their trial and error.

After some searching on the Internet, I came across this site http://www.bushingfix.com/chevrolet-trailblazer-shift-cable-bushing-repair-kit/. With this kit I did not have to do any grinding, modifications, or anything to get it to work. This literally took about 20 seconds to fix; 10 seconds of that was getting down on my my back and scooting underneath the vehicle. Snapped it into place and it worked just fine. They even have a video on the site to show you to do this. The problem is you have to wait for it to ship to your door; so that might not be an option for some.

Anyway, I hope this helps others in the future with the same problem!

blainenbecky
06-07-2014, 06:55 AM
here is the vid,
man that dose look easy

http://youtu.be/TnjRkIClV8Y

link

http://youtu.be/TnjRkIClV8Y

2005blazer05
07-10-2014, 05:52 PM
2005 Chevy Trailblazer
Auto
Inline 6

also try "dorman help shift linkage bushing kit part # 14055". Found it at O'Reilly Auto here in Houston,TX. They may have to order it from the O'Reilly parts warehouse. It has a replacement bushing just like the original part.It just snaps into place. Works very well.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-66649-14055.aspx

dfsmacon
07-22-2014, 08:11 AM
After reviewing and some study of this site I am having my 02 TB (nicknamed 'Precious' by the wife) towed back to my garage and putting on a new transmission cable end and maybe an R&R of the release solenoid to eliminate that problem as well. Hopefully my bill will go down from $750 estimated by the shop:thx to about $100 in parts after getting out my jacks and tools again for a few hours. Great website and posts! Thanks.

dfsmacon
07-28-2014, 08:36 AM
02 TB. Purchased BushingFix.com part for about $30 including shipping. Had it on the car and working before my coffee cooled down - really a neat part. Note that my shifter interlock solenoid was not working while the bushing was off (for some reason) and I had purchased another one of those to replace as well. When the bushing went on . . . the solenoid works - why I don't know. Estimate from shop was over $700 to repair both problems :crazy:and I fixed it for $30. Check one more mechanic off my list of people use! Great site & Information. Thanks.