The bushing at the transmission is worn/gone to the point the cable comes off the transmission and will leave the transmission in whatever gear you were in unless you crawl under and manually move the lever to park etc.

I have the transmission shifter cable and just need guidelines on the installation of the new cable. Seems straight forward, but never hurts to ask before starting.

This is a 2004 trailblazer ext with automatic transmission.

Did you ever get a response? I have a TB aswell and it did the same thing.
The plastic ring in the black plastic rectangular piece was broken.

I did buy some plastic shifting linkage pieces (in the help section of autozone) and one did actually fit on the pin and lock. I will try to put it inside the black plastic tranny linkage and hope it works.

I will post up results as soon as possible.

Same problem here...actually happened on our annual family outing :rolleyes:. I was told by the dealer that the entire cable had to be replaced...was able to get back on the road by securing the linkage with wire. Like to know if the plastic from autozone work...and how did you find the proper size...just trial and error in the parking lot of Autozone (crawling under the truck)?

Yea trial and error pretty much. We were lucky it happened to break in our garage. The plastic linkage pieces are in the help section at autozone or advance auto parts. there was one that fit but it had a lip on it so i cut it off with scissors and it snapped in place. Good luck, it is a pain in the butt....also in case you did not know (i didnt) if it gets stuck in gear just jack up the truck and hit the lever towards the front of the truck. it will put it in park for you. I was scared as heck for 10 minutes thinking my truck was stuck in reverse! good luck

Ok. ill take a ride over to Autozone tomorrow. See if i can find what u are talking about.
Thanks again

Update..just got back; wondering if this was the same item that you had purchased?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2462/3919309443_d22146bb29.jpg


im actually thinking something like this is the proper item...darn..i dont think they had that!
https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/vm91corp30r/item-dtl.w?sid=DijdcdfMdljpdlua011542514561151145&item=74045&icrid=&clt=hwrap1&vsrch_str=Shift%20Linkage&vsrch_brand=ALL&vsrch_cat=ALL&st_amount=&end_amount=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0

Hello cgoodwin, I came across the same problem yesterday, I was wondering did you ever replace the shift cable? I looked on here and it seems no one has done it. Can you please give me some info on what I have to do? Thank you

The bushing at the transmission is worn/gone to the point the cable comes off the transmission and will leave the transmission in whatever gear you were in unless you crawl under and manually move the lever to park etc.

I have the transmission shifter cable and just need guidelines on the installation of the new cable. Seems straight forward, but never hurts to ask before starting.

This is a 2004 trailblazer ext with automatic transmission.

Hello;
I posted later on. You are all in luck! Im going to do mine tomorrow but I have been looking over the info I received (Chiltons Manual) and although it doesn't cover little details it seems pretty straight foreward.
Of course it starts with dis connecting the battery. for the next steps you will need a small metric socket, phillips screwdriver and a couple slot blade (regular) screwdrivers.
Take out the inside compartment in the console (6 Philipps screws) at first I couldn't see the screws (all of them) untill I took the little rubber inserts out.Lift out the compartment. Now, under that compartment there are two small screws with metric heads, I just used my 1/4" socket set with two long extensions, now, you have to remove the two cup holders in front and you will find two more metric headed screws (something the Chilton left out).
Next, using the small star end on a nut driver handle, remove the set screw in the base of the shifter knob (drivers side) and remove the knob and shift boot. Next, remove the console, you might have to un plug some of the wires I'm not going to unless I really have to! Now the end of the shift cable will be visable in front of the shifter.
Make sure the shifter in the Park position.
Jack up the car (I call my TB a car?) and make sure it isn't going anywhere by placing blocks in back of the rear wheels. Time to get grimey! crawl under and locate the cable end at the transmission, and using a flat blade screwdriver, seporate (pry) the end of the cable off the end of the trans lever (which has a locking ball on it) then next the cable assembly will be held in a bracket, you have to locate a clip near the end and pry it down to free the cable from the bracket. Now follow the cable to where it enters the floor, there is a rubber boot (part of the cable) the pushes out under the carpet.
You might have to pry up the pieces on the drivers door entrance to free up the carpet. Next, you use a screwdriver (Slot head) to pry the cable off of the shifter end (should have a retaining ball like the trans did). Pull the cable out and get ready to put the new one in.
Installation should go reverse of the removal with the exception of making sure the shifter inside is in park as well as the transmission lever.
You will notice a small clip (trans end of the cable) with with a sliding locking clip. this should be down untill you get the cable hooked up then press it up and slide the lock over it. DONE! (except for putting it back together)
Hope this helps anyone having to do this job.

Bruces 57

I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

This was a life saver, Thanks!

Hello;
I posted later on. You are all in luck! Im going to do mine tomorrow but I have been looking over the info I received (Chiltons Manual) and although it doesn't cover little details it seems pretty straight foreward.
Of course it starts with dis connecting the battery. for the next steps you will need a small metric socket, phillips screwdriver and a couple slot blade (regular) screwdrivers.
Take out the inside compartment in the console (6 Philipps screws) at first I couldn't see the screws (all of them) untill I took the little rubber inserts out.Lift out the compartment. Now, under that compartment there are two small screws with metric heads, I just used my 1/4" socket set with two long extensions, now, you have to remove the two cup holders in front and you will find two more metric headed screws (something the Chilton left out).
Next, using the small star end on a nut driver handle, remove the set screw in the base of the shifter knob (drivers side) and remove the knob and shift boot. Next, remove the console, you might have to un plug some of the wires I'm not going to unless I really have to! Now the end of the shift cable will be visable in front of the shifter.
Make sure the shifter in the Park position.
Jack up the car (I call my TB a car?) and make sure it isn't going anywhere by placing blocks in back of the rear wheels. Time to get grimey! crawl under and locate the cable end at the transmission, and using a flat blade screwdriver, seporate (pry) the end of the cable off the end of the trans lever (which has a locking ball on it) then next the cable assembly will be held in a bracket, you have to locate a clip near the end and pry it down to free the cable from the bracket. Now follow the cable to where it enters the floor, there is a rubber boot (part of the cable) the pushes out under the carpet.
You might have to pry up the pieces on the drivers door entrance to free up the carpet. Next, you use a screwdriver (Slot head) to pry the cable off of the shifter end (should have a retaining ball like the trans did). Pull the cable out and get ready to put the new one in.
Installation should go reverse of the removal with the exception of making sure the shifter inside is in park as well as the transmission lever.
You will notice a small clip (trans end of the cable) with with a sliding locking clip. this should be down untill you get the cable hooked up then press it up and slide the lock over it. DONE! (except for putting it back together)
Hope this helps anyone having to do this job.

Bruces 57

I just got finished putting a new cable in on our 2003 TrailBlazer.

I have to credit you, Bruce 57 with an outstanding description of the process!

Thank you for taking the time to put that all down in a post.

Here's an updated link for the 92-09 GMC Envoy Shifter Cable Repair Pin kit

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_219&products_id=569&zenid=dbdi20fc3ehrlsafemgidpsu94

Thanks to all. The link is a great money saver. Mine just broke last week and my wife had to go on a trip. I was able to pop out the small bushing and flip it over, and with the help of two tie wraps securing the cable to the shift linkage she was able to make the trip. I am about to order the part.

I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

Hi the link to the website is no longer working is there a way you could direct me to another site with this part? Thanks

Automatic Transmission Factory
www.atfspeed.com/

I just received my pins (there were two in the package) to replace the broken bushing at the end of my shift cable. I had to slightly enlarge the opening in the end of the plastic shift cable, which was easily accomplished with a drill bit. Installation was straightforward and easy. Watch the video on their website for instructions, and don't hesitate to call them. They were very helpful on the phone.

Saved me a bunch of time and money by using this replacement pin. Should have been designed by the factory like this.

Welcome, notents! And thanks for the detail. Don't think I've ever seen a longer delay from join date to first post, but glad you joined the party! :thumbsup:

Automatic Transmission Factory
www.atfspeed.com/

I just received my pins (there were two in the package) to replace the broken bushing at the end of my shift cable. I had to slightly enlarge the opening in the end of the plastic shift cable, which was easily accomplished with a drill bit. Installation was straightforward and easy. Watch the video on their website for instructions, and don't hesitate to call them. They were very helpful on the phone.

Saved me a bunch of time and money by using this replacement pin. Should have been designed by the factory like this.

OK thanks I will take a look at this video and let you again thanks.

Automatic Transmission Factory
www.atfspeed.com/

I just received my pins (there were two in the package) to replace the broken bushing at the end of my shift cable. I had to slightly enlarge the opening in the end of the plastic shift cable, which was easily accomplished with a drill bit. Installation was straightforward and easy. Watch the video on their website for instructions, and don't hesitate to call them. They were very helpful on the phone.

Saved me a bunch of time and money by using this replacement pin. Should have been designed by the factory like this.

Just a quick question I did order the part and I watched the video, it seemed easy but was it esay to get the head out of the shifter cable pin, I saw were the gut grinded it down and popped it out. Was that nessary?

I finally found just the bushing/pin needed to fix the shifter cable at the following site:

http://www.atfbilletparts.com/shifter-cable-repair-kits-c-21

$19 and you don't need to replace the entire cable.

Hope this helps.

Have the same problem with my sons TB, could you please repost the link, it's not working....old I guess.

Old links can be tracked down by editing the URL to start at the main page, and seeing what's there and poking about.

In this case, look here:

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21

Old links can be tracked down by editing the URL to start at the main page, and seeing what's there and poking about.

In this case, look here:

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21

Thaanks for the quick responce Roadie!!

Ryman's Dad

s/h a little high, but works out great. 30 min. or less. I don't think the E-clip will fall off.

The bushing at the transmission is worn/gone to the point the cable comes off the transmission and will leave the transmission in whatever gear you were in unless you crawl under and manually move the lever to park etc.

I have the transmission shifter cable and just need guidelines on the installation of the new cable. Seems straight forward, but never hurts to ask before starting.

This is a 2004 trailblazer ext with automatic transmission.

http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=569

I live close to the ATF and picked it up locally... here are some before and after pics...
BEFORE:
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1329.jpg
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1327.jpg


AFTER:
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1330.jpg
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1331.jpg

I see you left your linkage arm the same direction. My directions stated to flip it over when reinstalling to the trans. It works that is all the matters. Good pic.

Are you talking about the arm attached to the trans. with the 15mm nut? If you flip it then the orientation in relation to the cable is way off and you cant get the linkage back in place... at least that's how mine was. Thanks for the props on the pics...

OK I am alil OCD but I just had to find out if I had messed up...

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1342.jpg

Unless I am mistaking, :undecided according to the directions the "staked" side is the side that gets ground and is also the side that's toward the pan, so basically it stays oriented the same way.

Step6: reinstall lever on transmission making sure ground on side is toward the trans pan. Your cable is installed correct but the lever on the trans. needs to be flipped over. That is what I did on mine and it lines up straight. In the video it shows grinding the outside (stacked/short) end of the lever. I'm like ok, so I did call ATF before putting it on. He told me to install it that way (basically backwards).

unotme: If its not to much trouble can you snap a pic of it so i can see what its supposed to look like?? Thanks

I wish I had known about this pin before removing the console. What a waste of time. That thing is a PITA. This pin turns a 3 hour job into 15 minutes. Now I still have to put the console back in. If you don't go the pin route you're torturing yourself. Besides the pin is stronger than the plastic bushing.

After looking around, I found out that the shifter bushing is available on Ebay o(of all places). And there is no need to grind anything off, I think it is still around 7 bucks or so.

Grinding it wasn't that bad. The pin is in and the trans shifts good again. The pin will outlast the transmission. The bushing is going to fail again, but I will have to admit this on lasted 8 yrs. When I called the Chevy dealer and gave him the part number for the cable the parts guy immediately asked if the cable came off of the trans. I asked how he knew that BEFORE I told him. He went silent. I asked if this was a common problem since he knew what I needed before I even finished my sentence. He said "Not really". I said "Yeah, right and I'll bet you have the Power Ball numbers too". The console wasn't as bad putting it back as it was taking it out. I had it at the shop because it came in on the hook so I was able to look at Alldata to get some help. When I took it out I was in a parking lot in front of Family Dollar. Not the best for working on cars. I did drill a small hole in the pass side of the console directly in line with the interlock solenoid and put a cap on it. If it ever fails or the circuit or brake lite switch has a problem you can take the cap off and push the button on the solenoid in to get the truck to shift. Something extra a do for my customers which GM should have done at the factory. You have to remove the console to push that button in without the hole I drilled. It's will be a real life saver if they have a shift problem in the future.

The bushing can be bought for approximately $10 including s & h on E-bay. To avoid many false returns, use the GM part number and description (part name) in the search field. The e-mail address of one seller is as follows:

ieshouston(at)yahoo.com

Use the ampersand symbol in place of the word "at" when sending an e-mail.

The problem is the bushing inside the end of the gearshift cable has worn or broken to the point the cable has come off the stud which is in the transmission linkage. A replacement bushing can be found on E-bay or by e-mailing a seller at the following address:

ieshouston(at)yahoo.com

Use the ampersand symbol in place of the word "at" when sending an e-mail.

The cost is approximately $10 including s & h.

[QUOTE=globalkrazyness;1151290]OK I am alil OCD but I just had to find out if I had messed up...

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/globalkrazyness/IMG_1342.jpg

Unless I am mistaking, :undecided according to the directions the "staked" side is the side that gets ground and is also the side that's toward the pan, so basically it stays oriented the same way.[/QUOTE

First of all, I thank you guys for the helpfull posts. The ATF replacement pin is the way to go!!! I removed the lever and ground the "backside" of the existing pin (the flat portion which is located on the outside = the side away from the tranny). I used a punch to remove the existing pin, reinstalled the new pin with the arm in the factory installed orientation (did not flip it) and all is great!

The problem is the bushing inside the end of the gearshift cable has worn or broken to the point the cable has come off the stud which is in the transmission linkage. A replacement bushing can be found on E-bay or by e-mailing a seller at the following address:

ieshouston(at)yahoo.com

Use the ampersand symbol in place of the word "at" when sending an e-mail.

The cost is approximately $10 including s & h.

I bought one from this seller- and its no good. I dont know if i got a bad one or what but it doesnt work. I slid it on the selector and it has no "click" to it, like its not fitting tight enough- so it will just slide right off. Its on as far as it goes and i tried flipping it the other way but still doesnt have enough hold. Its as if its made from to soft of material or the ring on the inside isnt big enough. Either way my old bushing has one side broke off, and flipping it around and re-installing it holds 10x better than this new bushing from eBay. So i guess i'll be ordering the repair pin/clip kit as previously posted-that seems much better. I just figured i'd post my results from the ebay bushing, Its getting mentioned that its sold but i had no luck with the end results.

There is no "click" to it as you said because the bushing is rubber, not plastic or metal. First, you must lubricate the bushing and cable slot.

Next, insert the bushing into the cable end, not onto the linkage stud. Be sure to push the bushing completely into and past one side of the cable end bushing "hole". That allows the end of the bushing to extend past the outside edge and avoid sliding back inside.

Next, push from the opposite direction to extend the bushing past the outside edge going the other direction. That stretches the bushing to extend past the other side of the cable "hole". Once you have extended both rolled ends or "flanges" past both edges of the cable, the bushing should stay in place.

well i guess before i give up on it, i'll try that. Those instructions sound much better than the seller's/ Here what he had for instructions "To install this bushing is not even necessary to remove the cable from its location. It is just a matter of removing all the bits of the old split up plastic bushing and install the new one in to the cable's end eyelet, then insert the eyelet into the selector pull, apply a drop of RTV silicon on top of selector's pull ball if desired and that's it."
After asking for help- he basically told me to do the same this i just wrote but add a dab of silicon caulk?

I would not use caulk of any type as it will dry and prevent free rotation of the bushing which will cause friction and deterioration as has already occurred with the original. I used transgel because it does not dry out readily and acts as a lubricant.

I would not use caulk of any type as it will dry and prevent free rotation of the bushing which will cause friction and deterioration as has already occurred with the original. I used transgel because it does not dry out readily and acts as a lubricant.

I know better than to do that- my point was that it was a little strange for the seller to tell me that. On a side note- i again tried the bushing and its very clear its not going to hold, But like i said before maybe i got a bad one. After this experience with the seller and part, i wouldnt try another tho- just ordered the pin/clip.

I, too have had the problem with pin, linkage etc. It amazes me how many of you say that it was easy (example 30 minutes) etc. Fact of the matter is, I am a mechanic and it took me roughly 5 1/2 hours to fix!! Yes, I got the pin from ATF in Florida. Great deal for rough $20. The labor however was extensive. In an earlier post, I see someone included the instructions from ATF. It says clearly to grind flush and knock out pin. Yep, RIGHT!! In a perfect world. Problem is dependent upon which set up or should I say bracket you have, which depends on if you need to grind or NOT!!!! I had to pull mine off and grind the bracket several times (5 to be exact) before I could eventually get the e-clip to lock in. Don't get me wrong! This is a great Forum and Website with good people and Trailvoy Owners, but I think you all need to be a bit more realistic concerning easy install. Good thing I knew what I was doing, what was going on and how to remedy it cause I am sure the novice would have been quite frustrated, quit hours ago, and had their vehicle towed somewhere for repair! Just Sayin'

I wish I had known about this pin before removing the console. What a waste of time. That thing is a PITA. This pin turns a 3 hour job into 15 minutes. Now I still have to put the console back in. If you don't go the pin route you're torturing yourself. Besides the pin is stronger than the plastic bushing. Don't be FOOLED! It could still be a PITA depending on set-up:mad:

It was finally my turn! Daughter had car (2002 Envoy)120 miles away parked in a parking lot at a Mall. When she returned to the car it wouldn't go in gear. Towed to a garage (thank goodness for AAA) where the mechanic was very kind, wired the pin back to the lever and told her about the ATF kit. I ordered the kit ($19.95 plus $10.05 shipping) and installed it per their instructions this morning. I am Not a mechanic and it took about 30 minutes and works perfectly. Many Thanks to everyone here for the advice!!

Ordered my replacement pin today. Hopefully all will go well and it will be a 30 minute fix for me. Will let you know.

My uncle is a mechanic, and stated that most all cars with the plastic linkage clip will break at some point. My 02 TB linkage broke yesterday. Will have pic of repair with a $1.00 bolt and washer, never to come apart again. :cool::cool::thx

It was an easy fix. Alot of grinding though as you don't grind down the back side, you grind down the side with the ball that the grommet fits on. I tried grinding down the back first and was not able to knock out the pressed in piece. Once I ground down the correct piece it only took one swing of the hammer. Painted it up and reinstalled.

I appreciate all of the info on this subject and it was useful in formulating my response to the problem. This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down.

1. Purchase universal clevis pin, two washers, cotter pin at local hardware store for $1.80.
1. Remove the shift lever arm.
2. Using a drill press, no grinding, dill out the original bushing pin.
3. Install the pin to see how much of pin has to go, four holes on mine.
4. Cut off end ot pin.
5. Install and drop the vehicle.

This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down. Ok maybe 30 if you include the tip to the hardware store.

I have photos, but can't upload them for some reason. It took 20minutes to do the job and 2hours to try and post it.

I appreciate all of the info on this subject and it was useful in formulating my response to the problem. This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down.

1. Purchase universal clevis pin, two washers, cotter pin at local hardware store for $1.80.
1. Remove the shift lever arm.
2. Using a drill press, no grinding, dill out the original bushing pin.
3. Install the pin to see how much of pin has to go, four holes on mine.
4. Cut off end ot pin.
5. Install and drop the vehicle.

This took me 20minutes from jack up to jack down. Ok maybe 30 if you include the tip to the hardware store.

What diameter clevis and size washers did you use?

MY turn today. Just backed into my driveway, put it in park, decided to move it another foot and....nothing!!! Im just glad it was in park when it happened. Ordered the part from ATF and will install it Wed.

When this first happened I thought something electronically went wrong. Usually when something fails with me its never a cheap replacement part. Even ran the OB scanner but had no codes. Glad you guys posted about this simple fix. :duh:

Well, I thought it would be here by Wed. Its Thursday and no part in the mail. Tracking shows its a little off course. Shipment should never have left Florida yet tracking shows it departed Atlanta 2 different times. If its not here by tomorrow then ill just rig up a bolt for it and send the new part back if it ever arrives.


Yay...it finally shows out for delivery. Waiting here impatiently for my mailman. Paying for priority mail and having it take 5 days to deliver is wrong. Not ATF's fault here but it was a bit frustrating waiting for it while the TB was on jacks.

Part finally arrived after 5 days of transit. Took me all of maybe 20 minutes to complete. One person noted that he had to drill out the opening in the cable housing slightly to get the pin to seat. All I used was a pair of long needle nose pliers and squeezed it in place. Hardest thing for me to install was the dang circlip. A combination of working upside down, big hands, small clip and bi-focal glasses made it interesting:duh:. A shot of cable lube on the joint and all is well.

I had a rude surprise when I arrived home the other night. I parked the TB, and when I took my foot off the brake, it started rolling back down the driveway. It was in neutral. Shift lever was stuck, which threw me off at first.... Crawled under the car to look. Turns out when my tranny was rebuilt last summer, the bushing must have disintegrated when they were working on it. Instead of waiting for a new one, they rigged it with two zip ties, one of which broke.

I put the car in park from underneath. Today, I drove it to school. I'm taking machine classes, so I knew I could make something to fix it. We took the actuator off the tranny that connects to the cable end. I ground off the head and punched out the pin that connects it to the cable. This leaves a hole about .266. The recommended tap drill for 5/16" turns out to be .281. I tapped the hole for 5/16". I intended to find something and turn it down to the diameter the bushing needed to be, but an instructor told me they used to use pipe for bushings in the oil field. He and I went to the hardware store and found out that 1/8" brass pipe has an OD of .410. The hole where the bushing fits is .425.... close enough. We found a fitting that was about 2" long that was threaded on both ends. Drilled it out to 5/16" and cut it down to the thickness of the plastic cable end, which also turns out to be .425". Okay, so I put a washer between the head of the bolt and the lever, screwed it in, and put the lever back on the tranny. Next, put the bushing on the bolt and slide the cable end onto the bushing. Another washer on the bolt, and a locknut on the end, and it's done. I doubt this bushing will wear out before the truck does! I could have done the same thing with a drill press and a saw, but having a lathe handy helps, lol. :woohoo:

just added my own little project to this thread as some one shared this thread with me and help me out with getting my old trail blazer going,thanks for in input you guys did on this thread it was a big help.

took a few pics of what I did to fix it today and thought I would share the images of the process .
after reading the link you gave me to check out I went to auto-zone and found the pack of bushings you see in the pic below,
but as the guy in the other thread said the bushing did not fit so I broke out my dremel tool and started grinding away at the excess and I had to thin down the flange a bit to get it to snap in to place
well now the old girl is back on the road
thanks again for the link

http://i.imgur.com/tJ13ObJ.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/tJ13ObJ) http://i.imgur.com/dEiIBUw.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/dEiIBUw)

http://i.imgur.com/zbEFwTR.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/zbEFwTR) http://i.imgur.com/6xs24fN.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/6xs24fN)

http://i.imgur.com/TMCjS66.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/TMCjS66)

What BS that GM uses such a cheap bushing to save money, but, the repair part would be too cheap to sell, what would profit be on 50 cents? Anyway, I did replace the shift control cable today due to the bushing failure and no time to wait for the pin in the mail. I harvested the good bushing from the cable that I removed. I'll send it to you if you pay the postage, or, if you're in NW Florida, you can come get it. No reason to keep it, I hope, and don't mind helping. OH, New here, guess this is my way of saying hello. Maybe email me if you're interested.

Bump!
The autozone bushing worked for me, just take your time with the dremel....

What I have read on this is great, I had to replace my cable about a year ago, couldn't quite remember how it was done, read thru the replys and it rejared my memory. Have to replace or modify the cable on my Pastors TB so he won't be w/o wheels. Thanks to all.
2And4 wheeler