Hello, my 02 trailblazer LT has recently started to shake when I reach speeds of 60 mph and higher. I never felt this before until about a week ago, after I had the brake pads changed. From 0-60mph, it is a smooth ride, but when it reaches 60mph, you can clearly feel the shake from beneath...it feels like it is coming from the front of the vehicle. When I turn the wheel (like changing lanes or going around a curve) at speed, the shake gets little worse. Any ideas? Thank you.
07-23-2009, 07:36 PM
My guess would be the front wheel bearings are starting to go.
07-23-2009, 07:39 PM
kinda sounds like u got a bad tire or tires
07-23-2009, 08:12 PM
well, i sure hope its not the wheel bearings again...Ive already had to replace both of them. The tires are in good shape...could it be low tire pressure though? I will check that when I get home, and also check to make sure all the lugnuts are tight. I will then report back.
07-23-2009, 11:33 PM
first start with the cheapest fix.....get ur tires re balanced....check your shocks and strut mounts, tire rod ends, and ball joints.....then remove the front wheels.....and spin the axels by hand......listen to them for noise, and feel them... they should spin smooth and quiet....no feel grindy, or make sounds.
07-23-2009, 11:40 PM
Hmm, maybe you lost a wheel weight during the brake job?
07-24-2009, 12:18 AM
If you don't see anything loose, swap the tires front to rear. One side at a time, to see if the shaking moves. But, yes, check for lost wheel weights first.
07-24-2009, 12:34 AM
My Trailblazer had the same problem. Great ride until 58-60 mph then a vibration the at shook the steering wheel. Turned out to be a ply seperation in the rear tire. I could not find it, but the tire store found it. :m2:
07-24-2009, 02:29 AM
yes balance would be my guess...or maybe the new rotors arent sittin right???
idkk first do air, then balance, while off for balane check for even wear on rotors...then check tieends and bearings :m2:
07-24-2009, 03:00 AM
id try rotating the tires, no expert jsut guessing :D
07-24-2009, 02:15 PM
As long as you say it wasn't acting like that before the brake pads change, it must be one of the following:
1- Wheel ring nuts are not tightened well.
2- Lost wheel balance weight.
3- Switched tires: right for left, left for right. The absolute result for this is a sound of grinding as if the wheel bearings are starting to go out, but the sound is actually produced by the tires themselves.
4- Possible front drive shaft bearings gone out. (Not because of brake pads).
These are the logical reasons for the shake you're feeling in the truck.
07-26-2009, 10:30 AM
Ok, come to think of it, I believe the vehicle has been doing this longer than I origionally stated...I think i just really began to notice it after my brake pad change. But, a month or two prior to the brake pad change, I rotated my tires (back to front) for the first time since I bought the vehicle. I did not take this into the shop to have the wheels balanced or anything like that. From all of the responses, I believe that may be my problem and I will be taking it into the shop in the future. Although the lack of balancing may be the issue, could a loose tie rod endplay have any contribution to this problem? I jacked the front of the vehicle up in the air and wiggled both tires from a 9 oclock to 3 oclock grip. The passengers side moved real smooth and I could not feel any play in the wheel. However the drivers side "rattled/knocked" when I wiggled it. Upon further inspection, I believed the sound was coming from the tie rod joint area because I could see it moving differently than the tie rod joint on the passengers side (It also sounded like it was coming from this area.) What would cause the tie rod to do this and is it something I could fix myself?
07-26-2009, 12:17 PM
Your TB probably has the crappy older design of tie rod. It may be time for an upgrade, so you should measure what you have. The 14mm is the old one, and the 16mm is the new one. Your highway vibration might be wheel shimmy.
07-26-2009, 03:40 PM
Tie-rod ends wear out just like ball joints. Especially the ones that can't be greased. They are fairly easy to replace. Just make an appointment for an alignment as soon as you change it.
07-26-2009, 03:41 PM
surely a bad tie rodend does that. you need to change it and align the steering system in addition to all wheels balance.
07-27-2009, 03:38 PM
It was the tie rod end on the driver's side. Cost me 130$ parts and labor...40$ for align job. I wish I would have just bought the part and done it myself, but they informed me it could go at any moment and if that would happen then i may have an accident...better safe then sorry i guess. But I have another question...they informed me that I could not upgrade to a 16mm without replacing several parts? Is that accurate? They just replaced the 14mm with a new 14mm.
07-27-2009, 06:20 PM
I just broke and had to change an inner and outer tie rod end on a trail. No fun, and I thank the lucky stars it was during low speed rock crawling. It actually could not have broken any other way than at low speed, but if it had just cracked, and waited until later to come loose, I would have been going down a 4000 foot twisty mountain descent with a 3500 pound trailer behind me. Having the two front tires aimed in different directions at 55MPH would have resulted in one messed-up Roadie!
To convert from 14 to 16mm would involve changing out the inner tie rod ends as well, but the shop manual hinted at a design change on the rack itself that the inner tie rod ends attach to that could have made that impossible.
In any event, except for the 14/16mm thread size, the ball joint itself at the end of the tie rod end is the same for both designs. The 16mm ones aren't any stronger, as I can see. The 14mm one might break on the trails easier, but both Teebes and JamesDub went over the same rocks as I did, and they have the 14mm size. My 16mm was the one that broke.
08-09-2009, 05:38 PM
My Bravada is doing the same thing grinds more while turning and the magic speed is at exactly 60 mph. I think it needs wheel bearings will do some TIMKENS next week and let you all know if it solved the problem. What is the general consensus of TIMKEN hubs for the 360Ts? Rock Auto has them for $174 They have a good reputation for w-bodies.