How to change Front Wheel Bearing.... (with Pics) [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: How to change Front Wheel Bearing.... (with Pics)


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eeehabt
07-30-2009, 04:15 AM
Hi all, :)

Yesterday I changed the Front Wheel Bearing of my truck. I took photos of the process for all to benefit from.

Photo 1:
Loosen the axle and the wheel nuts. Jack the truck up.

Photo 2:
Secure the rear wheel by placing the wheel locks behind and in front of it. Wheel locks come along with every truck.

Photo 3:
Remove the two bolts that hold the Brake assembly. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 4 (2 photos):
Free the ABS sensor cable from all its mounting points and unplug it.

Photo 5:
Take the Brake Assembly off. Secure it in a way that protects the brake hose from damage.

Photo 6:
Hold the Brake Disc at the points shown and pull it out the hub. Careful not to touch the soft surface just to keep it clean and grease free.

Photo 7:
The bolts that hold the hub containing the bearing.

Photo 8A:
Remove the two bolts first. Then, turn the steering wheel all the way right to reach the third bolt. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 8B:
The location of the third bolt that holds the hub. You can use closed end wrenches or sockets. I loosen and tighten with the first and remove with an automatic wrench. (The shoe has nothing to do with the process). :crackup:

Photo 9:
Place a nut on a wheel bolt and gently hammer it out. This is if you want to keep the bolts for future use as they get damaged easily especially when you don't remove them for a long period of time, like a year or more, or when your bad luck takes to a lousy craftsman who damages them for you.
By the way, using the truck with one of the nuts lost damages the wheel ring and causes lack of track control.

Photo 10:
Squeeze a regular screwdriver at the point shown with arrows and pull the bearing out. Installation is the reverse but don't forget to place the big O ring on the hub before installing it.

Photo 11:
To install a bolt back in the hub, make sure that you support the hub with a long socket to prevent bending it when you hammer the bolt in. It's clear in the photo. (You can use a hydraulic press if available)

Photo 12:
In order not to end up with lost bolts or nuts, or forgotten to return ones, I advise that you get yourselves a magnetic plate like the one shown here. it holds your bolts and nuts tight even if you work under the truck and you mount it on the chassis face down. Mine is Toptools brand. It's very cheap.
The other arrow shows where you should keep the wheel while working. This location prevents damage to the truck if the jack fails to hold it and in case it slips or falls.

That's all for now. It was a very easy thing to do.

eeehabt
07-31-2009, 01:59 PM
Any comments???

bartonmd
07-31-2009, 02:07 PM
I haven't done it on this particular vehicle, but it sounds about right for the ones I have done...

Good job!

Mike

wardak33
07-31-2009, 05:18 PM
Nice Write-up! I could've used this a year ago.. very helpful, THANKS!!

mikespine
08-01-2009, 08:53 AM
Nice write-up. Thank you for your time and information.-Mike

Macatowa
08-01-2009, 09:26 AM
Very good write up!

I curious how long they last? I have 161,000 miles on mine and still good, however I know they don't last forever.

These Trucks are amazing! I have and no mechanical failures in my 7 yrs of ownership other than the fan clutch at 115k and a few leaky seals on the 4wd.

eeehabt
08-01-2009, 11:07 AM
Very good write up!

I curious how long they last? I have 161,000 miles on mine and still good, however I know they don't last forever.

These Trucks are amazing! I have and no mechanical failures in my 7 yrs of ownership other than the fan clutch at 115k and a few leaky seals on the 4wd.

You have been really lucky. The wheel bearing I changed lasted for a year and a half. At least I know the reasons for that. 1st, It wasn't genuine. 2nd I let a mechanic do it. You should thank God for your truck.:hail:

TSB
08-04-2009, 04:46 PM
These Trucks are amazing

I've had to sink approx. $5000 into mine to keep it on the road and I'm just in the 90k's. No off-roading, no towing, no neglect, no abuse. This is my second one too. I traded out of the first at 35K, so count your blessings.


Getting back to the subject... I just replaced one of my front wheel bearings. It was a very easy job. I would venture to say anyone can successfully do this, at least on a 2wd. I bought a $63/free shipping bearing from ebay. As easy as it is to change, I don't mind if I have to do it again. I could do it 3 times for the price of a Timken from R.A. and 5 times for the price of OEM. I have a couple thousand miles and so far, so good.

1 question I have for you who have done it, is about the ABS sensor well. My original had grease in the cavity where the ABS sensor inserts. It was in all of the gear-teeth (sensor contact points) and seemed pretty heavy throughout the cavity. My new one was clean and had no grease. At first I thought that was the first sign of cheap, ebay construction-no grease. But since it is working well, I now think the grease in my original was not supposed to be there and was the result of the failed bearing.

Did anybody take note of this part of their's? Which way is it supposed to be? Grease or no grease?

SBUBandit
08-04-2009, 05:02 PM
Nice write-up, the only thing that would make it even better is adding in what size sockets each of the bolts took, but very well done. I just put new wheel bearings on my 95 grand am this past weekend. They were 15 years old and original. Much quieter now.

rbarrios
08-04-2009, 05:36 PM
I curious how long they last? I have 161,000 miles

.


148,500 miles here-- and still good also...

Doc Brown
08-05-2009, 09:39 AM
eeehabt, nice write up. This is pretty much the procedure.

Very good write up!

I curious how long they last? I have 161,000 miles on mine and still good, however I know they don't last forever.

These Trucks are amazing! I have and no mechanical failures in my 7 yrs of ownership other than the fan clutch at 115k and a few leaky seals on the 4wd.

The right one went at about 83k, the left one exactly year later at about 98k.

Personally, I don't think TBs are "amazing". Its a nice truck when its running right. But every year I've owned it, I've had to stick $500-$1000 a year of non-maintenance costs. And that's doing most of my own work. If not for that, and the great info on this web site, I would have dumped this thing a long time ago. Now I have to keep it as I have a payment on the HHR.

tgallagh
08-11-2009, 05:37 PM
Hi, I am new to this forum. I have an 03 Chev TB with 138K on it. The onlt real repair so far were the tie rods. Other than that, it has run like a top.

I have a bad front right wheel bearing so I figure that if one is bad, I will do both simce I will have all the tools assembled to execute the job.

What tools are required to change the bearing hub? I realize that I will need standard &/or metric open and box end wrenches, and sockets. However, how big is the socket in pic 1? 33MM, 35MM?

BTW, this is the best set of instructions I have seen so far...

THANKS!!

Tim

eeehabt
08-12-2009, 02:33 PM
Hi, I am new to this forum. I have an 03 Chev TB with 138K on it. The onlt real repair so far were the tie rods. Other than that, it has run like a top.

I have a bad front right wheel bearing so I figure that if one is bad, I will do both simce I will have all the tools assembled to execute the job.

What tools are required to change the bearing hub? I realize that I will need standard &/or metric open and box end wrenches, and sockets. However, how big is the socket in pic 1? 33MM, 35MM?

BTW, this is the best set of instructions I have seen so far...

THANKS!!

Tim


Thank you for the nice words. The socket in Pic 1 is 35mm. Mostly you'll need 18mm closed-end wrench and 19mm socket for the wheel nuts and might be used for something else, I can't really remember now. I'll get back to you later when I've checked it out.:thx

eeehabt
08-13-2009, 07:03 AM
OK,I checked the bolts and they are all 18mm. You need a high quality socket and a close-end wrench.

joe70ss
08-14-2009, 11:28 AM
I f the bearing is okay and the ABS comes on once in a while,can you clean the ABS sensor or just replace sensor THANKS

Northerner
08-14-2009, 02:00 PM
OK,I checked the bolts and they are all 18mm. You need a high quality socket and a close-end wrench.

I am also thinking of doing this, my front right wheel bearing is making noise. Great instructions, wanted to confirm if the axle required grease before you put the new wheel hub on?

eeehabt
08-15-2009, 11:10 AM
I am also thinking of doing this, my front right wheel bearing is making noise. Great instructions, wanted to confirm if the axle required grease before you put the new wheel hub on?

Actually, no grease is required, but if you wipe it with a little, it won't harm.

tgallagh
08-15-2009, 04:41 PM
Thanks for your responses. I changed both front wheel bearings today. Took about three hours. First one was slow because I was being very cautious about what I was doing. Once I removed the three bolts securing the bearing hub, it slid out easily. The second one was a bit of a pain in that is seems it was quite stuck. But eventually it came loose.

Tool recomendation was very handy and all went well. Very easy job all in all. I main bolt holding everything in place is a 36MM and all others are 18MM as eeehabt stated.

I did find, however, that the right front tie rod is shot! I wonder how easy this is to replace.... Probably not as easy as the bearing!

Thanks Again!!:thx

SilverUnicorn
08-16-2009, 08:02 AM
1 question I have for you who have done it, is about the ABS sensor well. My original had grease in the cavity where the ABS sensor inserts. It was in all of the gear-teeth (sensor contact points) and seemed pretty heavy throughout the cavity. My new one was clean and had no grease. At first I thought that was the first sign of cheap, ebay construction-no grease. But since it is working well, I now think the grease in my original was not supposed to be there and was the result of the failed bearing.

Did anybody take note of this part of their's? Which way is it supposed to be? Grease or no grease?

I have not done this job, but it would seem to be that grease would be some sort of Dielectric grease. It keeps the contacts from getting water in them and corroding.

I may be wrong, but that is the only thing I could think of. This is different than regular grease.

Chris

eeehabt
08-16-2009, 11:46 AM
Thanks for your responses. I changed both front wheel bearings today. Took about three hours. First one was slow because I was being very cautious about what I was doing. Once I removed the three bolts securing the bearing hub, it slid out easily. The second one was a bit of a pain in that is seems it was quite stuck. But eventually it came loose.

Tool recomendation was very handy and all went well. Very easy job all in all. I main bolt holding everything in place is a 36MM and all others are 18MM as eeehabt stated.

I did find, however, that the right front tie rod is shot! I wonder how easy this is to replace.... Probably not as easy as the bearing!

Thanks Again!!:thx



Hi,
You're welcome.

Is the tie the inner or the outer? If it's the outer one, its change is pretty easy, but you need do extra work after you've done it.

1- Lift the front of the truck and secure it. (right & left)
2- Align The steering wheel to the center.(how it drives forward without drifting right or left. (Important to remember the exact posture of the steering wheel)
3- Get a tape measure and note down the distances between the front wheels from the front side and the rear side. Don't panic if you find a slight difference. This is normal. Usually it's 2-3mm narrower in the front. (See picture)
4- Get someone to apply the brakes and you remove the wheel nuts of the side you're gonna work on.
5- Get two open-ended wrenches and loosen the lock nut on the tie. (Size differs according to model)
6- Remove the nut on the ball joint.
7- Use the ball joint removing tool to loosen it and free it (Preferable if available). If it's not available, get a heavy hammer and start knocking the part holding it until it is freed. (I hate using the hammer for such jobs).
8- Hold the inner tie rod with a press grip and turn the outer one loose until it's removed. (get rid of it in the nearest garbage can)
9- Fit the new one in its place and only tighten the ball joint nut.
10- Return the wheel and tighten the nuts.
11- Return the steering wheel to the exact posture you set it at before you removed the wheel. It must have moved while working)
12- turn the inner tie rod and keep measuring the distances between the front wheels until you restore the original distance. (Important to have someone help you keep the steering wheel in the correct posture when you measure it)
13- Tighten the lock nut and lower the truck down.
14- Test-drive it. If it drifts to the right, increase the distance between the front wheels at the front side. If it drifts to the left, decrease the distance. Apply the adjustment to the side you worked on. Don't interfere with the intact side.

This way you won't need to go to an alignment workshop and pay money for a job you can do with a tape measure.
A picture of the ball joint remover tool is down.

Bravada4u
08-18-2009, 12:40 PM
This is a great right up should be made a sticky.
IMO
:)
John

eeehabt
08-19-2009, 03:04 PM
This is a great right up should be made a sticky.
IMO
:)
John

I hope so.:thx

Rag PA
08-25-2009, 10:18 AM
Hey, thanks for all the great info. This is my first post...:) and of course, the question. I had that infamous "hum" of a bearing going bad at 37,000 miles! Dealer replaced it back then, $145.oo for labor, but each bearing for GM parts was $338.oo. Now at 71,000 miles, yup that "hum" is back!
I am unhappy to say the least :mad:, it is most prevalent at 40+ mph and really hums when turning left a that speed. Do you guys know if that would be right or left? Like others have indicated and found out this sounds really easy...thus the low labor cost but the bearings are outrageous. So, after I take my TB EXT back to dealer, and let them know my displeasure :hissy: if they won't replace the bearing for free(I'll pay the labor...of course). I may just do it on my own, I've done them before but on 60-70's vehicles.

Has anyone else heard of the bearings going out so quickly on the EXT versions?

THANX GUYS, glad I stumbled across this site!!:thumbsup:

TSB
08-25-2009, 11:32 AM
Rag,

I can attest to this being easy as pie on my 2wd. Remove calipers and rotor and there it is - 3 bolts. I can't speak personally for how difficult it is to deal with the front drive shafts, though the bearing/hubs are the same, I think. They are all splined in the center for FWD shafts.

As far as the cost of the bearing, to each his own. But I bought a $63 unit from ebay with free shipping and after 3000 miles, I have no complaints. From my perspective, the Timkens that seem well recommended here are $180 on Rock Auto, so I could do the job 3 times for that price. The labor is plenty easy enough so I don't mind if it doesn't last as long. You're only averaging 35,000 miles on OEM, so how can it get much worse?

I got approx. 90,000 out of my original on the left and the right is still going. I know from my other vehicle, that with 4WD and All Terrain / Mud Terrain tires, uneven wear/shaky tires will wreak havoc on front end parts. Do you run bad riding tires just to get the mileage left on the tread? It seems something has to be at fault for so little mileage on the bearings to be failing.

If the noise goes away when you turn right, then it is your right that is bad. The right turn sends the intertia and weight to the left, so it lightens the load on the right and the noise goes away.

Direction for noise to go away= side of bad bearing


This is the exact bearing/seller I went with on ebay. I received it in less than a week. It is $63.60 "buy-it-now", so no bidding and there is no shipping charge.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-07-CHEVY-TRAILBLAZER-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-HUB-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQha shZitem518a26cf34QQitemZ350210150196QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Rag PA
08-25-2009, 03:21 PM
TSB,
Thanks for the info, I always have just replaced both bearings at once so when one went bad both got changed, these being more affordable not OEM I may change out both unless the dealer will "deal". I usually change out tires when the tread indicators start to wear, infact the tires on it now arebrand new 1000 miles ago. So the tires aren't the culprit. I've never off roaded this TB it's a family hauler. I wonder if the dealer charged for both bearings and did only one? I agree and others are very suprised of the failure, especially with the low miles. My only thought is the 2003 4wd EXT version may be part of the problem, but I doubt it. Well, off to the dealer, or dirty knuckles.

Thanx Again

If anyone else has experienced a low mileage failure in a EXT, I am curious

TSB
08-25-2009, 03:53 PM
I considered changing both, but since I went the ebay route, I wasn't confident that what I was getting was better than the original that was still doing fine, so I didn't change it. Time will tell.

Honestly though, having done it once, I think I can do it again in 15 minutes, should the other side go bad or the ebay unit fail. It's almost equivalent to an oil change in difficulty. That's why IMO, it isn't worth spending the money on the high priced units. If the cheap one fails, changing it again is easy enough and I'll take the chance that 3 cheap units should outlast 1 high priced one. And further, with the way things have gone for me, it could well outlast the Trailblazer.

Rag PA
08-31-2009, 11:03 AM
Went to dealership, They said "No Problem" replaced with GM Parts it's
:DFREE :crazy::woot::woohoo: yeah I'm happy. Thanks guys

cemeb4dk
09-02-2009, 11:52 AM
Great write up.

I think this is the issue with my wifes 2003 trailblazer 4x4. Its making a pretty loud and rough sound from the Drivers side wheel and has been getting worse, and while cruising at 50-60 and you turn the wheel to the right it becomes a louder high pitch sound. It does not make this additional sound at slow turns like at a stop sign.

So does this sound like its a front hub? My local Napa has the replacement for $155 or so.

Thanks in advance

eeehabt
09-03-2009, 05:26 AM
From your description, it seems that the left wheel bearing is the culprit. Is he selling you the original GM one for that price?

cemeb4dk
09-03-2009, 10:59 AM
I am sure its not a gm part if its from Napa. I am sure its a Napa brand

cemeb4dk
09-04-2009, 10:15 AM
Well got it changed out. It solved the problem, thanks again for this great write up. Its a pretty easy job I am not a mechanic but like to save money and like to see if I can do it. It took me a total of two hours a bit slow, but some of the bolts had almost 7 years of rust and crud on them. I have a Hayes manual and this write up is better. Also the Hayes manual scared me a bit because it says don't pull to hard when removing old hub because you dont want to seperate the CV. So for a while I just tapped here and there witht that fear, but I finally got it off and it all went back together and i had no extra parts left over...

Thanks again

eeehabt
09-04-2009, 10:43 AM
Well got it changed out. It solved the problem, thanks again for this great write up. Its a pretty easy job I am not a mechanic but like to save money and like to see if I can do it. It took me a total of two hours a bit slow, but some of the bolts had almost 7 years of rust and crud on them. I have a Hayes manual and this write up is better. Also the Hayes manual scared me a bit because it says don't pull to hard when removing old hub because you dont want to seperate the CV. So for a while I just tapped here and there witht that fear, but I finally got it off and it all went back together and i had no extra parts left over...

Thanks again

I appreciate the nice words. Thanks and welcome.

Irish2685
10-04-2009, 12:28 PM
Any advice on separating the hub and axle? I got a three jaw puller, and this thing is not coming loose.

the roadie
10-04-2009, 12:37 PM
Go back in time three days, and start using PB Blaster as has been mentioned many times. ;)

Or use a rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, or (in an emergency) put the nut partially back on the shaft and use a BFH onthe and of the axle. It's an impact that will break the corrosion lose. I never use a puller. If you grease the splines of the new hub when you reinsert the shaft, it may be easier next time.

gmac310
10-04-2009, 01:03 PM
I was under the impression that the direction of turn for the noise indicates that it's the OTHER side that needs replacement, I.E. if you turn right and hear the noise then it's the left side that needs to be replaced. Am I correct?

Irish2685
10-04-2009, 04:10 PM
Go back in time three days, and start using PB Blaster as has been mentioned many times. ;)

Or use a rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, or (in an emergency) put the nut partially back on the shaft and use a BFH onthe and of the axle. It's an impact that will break the corrosion lose. I never use a puller. If you grease the splines of the new hub when you reinsert the shaft, it may be easier next time.

I finally got it, with much effort and the puller. Greased up the new one, and it works perfectly now. No growling anymore. However, I will heed your advice next time I have to do this.

I was under the impression that the direction of turn for the noise indicates that it's the OTHER side that needs replacement, I.E. if you turn right and hear the noise then it's the left side that needs to be replaced. Am I correct?

This is how I diagnosed mine. The way other people suggested made zero sense to me, so I went with what I thought was right. When I turned to the right, putting more load on the driver's side wheel, it got louder. When turning left, taking the load of that wheel, it got quieter.

rjmyklebust
10-04-2009, 11:38 PM
This is my first post and I am wondering what luck people are having with the E-bay bearings. I have no problem spending a little extra $ for good parts, but 60$ to 180$ is a little too much if the bennefit is not large. Please let me know what you guys thing.

Chir
10-06-2009, 07:58 PM
Thanks for the excellent write up. I'm going to try this myself after seeing it. It's so much nicer to see full color photos!

I've been told that the problem was most likely the CVC Axel or the wheel bearing. The symptom is a loud roar or hum that gets louder when the wheels start moving faster. It sounds like it's coming from the front driver side, but I haven't tested using the "turn" method. I'm going out to do that now.

Is there any way to visibly tell if the bearing is bad? Even if I have to pull the caliper off, I'd still like to know that is the problem before I drop $200 on it! :)

Thanks!

Irish2685
10-07-2009, 01:10 AM
There is no way to visibly tell if the bearing is bad, as it's enclosed in the hub. I'm sure you could take that all apart, and check, but that'd be a lot of work. I have been told that another way to check, other than the turning method, is to lift the truck up, grab the tire at the top and bottom, and try to rock it back and forth. If there is play, then the bearing is bad. I tried this, and I had no play, but my bearing was still bad. I'd just stick with the turning method.

eeehabt
10-16-2009, 06:09 AM
Thanks for the excellent write up. I'm going to try this myself after seeing it. It's so much nicer to see full color photos!

I've been told that the problem was most likely the CVC Axel or the wheel bearing. The symptom is a loud roar or hum that gets louder when the wheels start moving faster. It sounds like it's coming from the front driver side, but I haven't tested using the "turn" method. I'm going out to do that now.

Is there any way to visibly tell if the bearing is bad? Even if I have to pull the caliper off, I'd still like to know that is the problem before I drop $200 on it! :)

Thanks!

Hi,
You can tell if it's the CVC easily. While driving and hearing the noise, shift the gear to Neutral and see if the noise remains. The CVC produces noise when there's load on it. When you shift to N you actually remove the load.
If you find that the noise remains, then it's the bearing.
Good luck.

TheEricHarris
10-16-2009, 11:57 AM
Running into a snag. Check out the pic:

http://home.comcast.net/~ejharris/hub.jpg

New is on left, old on right. See that big threaded bolt thing in the middle of the old hub. What is that? Do I need a 35mm deep socket to remove it and put it on the new one?

Also, can I reuse the old ABS sensor wire? Or is it best to use the new cable.

gmac310
10-16-2009, 12:24 PM
Running into a snag. Check out the pic:

http://home.comcast.net/~ejharris/hub.jpg

New is on left, old on right. See that big threaded bolt thing in the middle of the old hub. What is that? Do I need a 35mm deep socket to remove it and put it on the new one?

Also, can I reuse the old ABS sensor wire? Or is it best to use the new cable.

I almost died when I saw this pic but then realized you have a 2wd!! Thought you had some serious problems on your hands! I have to assume that GM only put an axle "stub" and nut on there for two wheel drive trucks?
I would say it would be best if you removed it and put it on your new hub. You can "borrow" a 35 mm socket from a local parts store to take it off. As far as the wiring is concerned, why would you want to reuse the old harness? I don't even think you can remove it from the hub.

TheEricHarris
10-16-2009, 12:28 PM
Yeah, RWD.

So I should just be able to get a 35mm deep socket and transfer it to the new hub? Frick, this was going so smooth too lol. I hope autozone carries it otherwise it's a 20 min drive down the mountain to a big store.

the roadie
10-16-2009, 12:41 PM
Don't transfer it. Don't bother looking for a socket. Discard it with the old hub. What's the vehicle's history? Some goof changed that hub before, I'm thinking, and got it off a junkyard 4WD vehicle, and chopped off the outer CV joint because they didn't bring a 35mm socket to the yard.

Got a pic of the other side of the hub?

Anyway, you don't need it, and on a 2WD vehicle, the splined center of the hub will be empty.

What's on your other side?

TheEricHarris
10-16-2009, 12:54 PM
Both front wheels have that stub. I have had this since 12k miles and I know the previous owner didn't do anything. This must be standard on the SS.

Got the 35mm from autozone. Now I can't get it off since it spins and I can't get a grip on it. Fubar. I think I might have to bolt the old hub back up, put the tire on it and lower it to the ground so I can get some leverage on it :(

the roadie
10-16-2009, 01:04 PM
Fascinating. I never knew that! Can't imagine why! Airflow? I don't see how it can be structural.

gmac310
10-16-2009, 02:20 PM
Try wedging a big prybar between the lug studs like it shows in the article. If you need more leverage you could bolt it back on the vehicle but I think Roadie's right that you probably don't need them.

TheEricHarris
10-16-2009, 02:28 PM
I took off the 35mm bolt and the stud didn't come out. So I put on the new wheel hub, bolted everything back up and went for a test drive. IT'S FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO MORE WHOMP WHOMP WHOMP/CLING CLING CLING NOISES!!! Drives like new again.

Thanks to everyone who contributed in this thread.

FYI - 2006 RWD TBSS 40K miles - Passenger side wheel hub replaced.


I'm off to get some fast food to celebrate! The wifey will be very happy now that her dream car sounds normal again!


:woohoo:

gmac310
10-16-2009, 03:46 PM
Was it just me or did other people find the new hub was a tight fit on the axle spline?

eeehabt
10-20-2009, 03:17 PM
Fascinating. I never knew that! Can't imagine why! Airflow? I don't see how it can be structural.

Hello the roadie,
Sometimes factories make the bearing two in one in order to force the balls in the groove. fitting the axle stub holds the two inner parts of the bearing tight together as one. Now I can't remember if the bearings on our trucks are made like that or one piece. If one fails to tighten the inner parts of the bearing as described, the bearing will go off in a week or so, and IT IS very dangerous to drive it in that condition as it is expected to break in pieces suddenly after the grease inside has leaked out. You can have a look at the inner rings of the bearings in the pictures below.
I hope it's clear now.

eeehabt
10-24-2009, 02:11 PM
Was it just me or did other people find the new hub was a tight fit on the axle spline?

Hi,
Today, I noticed my friends 2W Envoy. There is no axle stub in it. So, there is no need for you to worry about not installing the one you have.

raypasicznyk
10-28-2009, 04:45 PM
Is this procedure basically the same for a 4X4 Trailblazer?

the roadie
10-28-2009, 05:29 PM
The procedure in post #1 in this thread WAS on a 4X4. :undecided It went slight off-topic later.

dziubad
11-08-2009, 09:30 PM
wow, this was so helpfull thanks for the great pics...getting ready to change both front bearings.

onewheeldeal
11-10-2009, 05:24 PM
I need to replace my wheel bearing hub assembly. Does anyone know what size socket to use for that giant axle nut? I'm having trouble finding the right size deep socket.

the roadie
11-10-2009, 05:40 PM
Please read the entire thread. It's in post #18. Yes, I agree it might have been better in post #1.

chrisjlyon
11-13-2009, 06:58 AM
So my wifes 2004 rwd trailblazer is experiencing the same problem, i was wondering if the actual bearing can be replaced alone, or does the whole wheel hub need replacing? I had done this before on a much older toyota and it was just the bearing that you packed with grease and replaced. But i have been told that these come in wheel hubs now and they get replaced all together. Please help me clarify what is being replaced?
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/parts_gallery/wheel_bearing.jpg
or
http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/13000043/Images/17/513124-12413045-blazer_4wd_hub_bearing.jpg

the roadie
11-13-2009, 10:43 AM
It's the entire assembly. No separate bearings you can get to.

JJ
11-13-2009, 12:56 PM
If post #51 is a picture of the bearing in the 360 hub (ball bearing) it is no wonder people are having trouble with front wheel bearings wearing out. Tapered roller bearings are usually used in applications like front wheel bearings. Is that a 360 hub pictured?

the roadie
11-13-2009, 01:03 PM
The pics in post #51 are all generic, and not from a trailvoy. I have a dead bearing I could bash apart if you're interested.

stopher2
11-15-2009, 09:39 AM
This thread is very good, however I notice everyone is going out and doing the entire hub replacement.

there are bearings at rockauto sold for the application, where nearly everyone else is replacing the entire hub.

one fella here said we can't get to the bearings in the hub.

i just bought from http://mibearings.com/wheel-bearing/513188.html.
if this is the real deal timken at $130 plus $22 shipping, i am happy; but am curious if the bearing options would have been cheaper for $40 each. i didn't see race replacements with the bearing package.

Rockauto acdelco oem hubs are $240. I think timken is good stuff, so I've been ambivilent about whether to go hub or bearings without an authority about disecting a hub.

when i get my new hubs, i'll see if i can rebuild one and will answer my own question, unless someone's already done it.

$40 bearings is cheaper than $152 hubs; but i don't have the entire story yet.:m2:

billdaman
11-15-2009, 09:58 AM
This thread is very good, however I notice everyone is going out and doing the entire hub replacement.

there are bearings at rockauto sold for the application, where nearly everyone else is replacing the entire hub.

one fella here said we can't get to the bearings in the hub.

i just bought from http://mibearings.com/wheel-bearing/513188.html.
if this is the real deal timken at $130 plus $22 shipping, i am happy; but am curious if the bearing options would have been cheaper for $40 each. i didn't see race replacements with the bearing package.

Rockauto acdelco oem hubs are $240. I think timken is good stuff, so I've been ambivilent about whether to go hub or bearings without an authority about disecting a hub.

when i get my new hubs, i'll see if i can rebuild one and will answer my own question, unless someone's already done it.

$40 bearings is cheaper than $152 hubs; but i don't have the entire story yet.:m2:

The bearings that you purchased from MI bearing are NOT Timkens, but they are high quality Made in US bearings. I just installed a set in my truck yesterday, and it runs beautiful.

I stay away from Chinese sweatshop crap bearings for safety reasons.

the roadie
11-15-2009, 09:58 AM
there are bearings at rockauto sold for the application,Never saw these listed, and I'm as sure as I can be (replaced wheel bearings 8 times so far on my vehicle and others).

BUT, I'd be silly to dismiss your finding without checking it out. Do you have a mfr and part number I can look at Rockauto and see if it's an error? I see listings for $30-40 rear axle bearings, inners and outers, and one listing for a $7 front bearing that's either for the differential or a mistake.

The GM exploded parts view shows just the assembly, and they often break things down into pieces that aren't available separately.

JJ
11-15-2009, 07:17 PM
The pics in post #51 are all generic, and not from a trailvoy. I have a dead bearing I could bash apart if you're interested.

I only posted because I know for a fact that the 1949 Oldsmobile had ball bearings in the front wheels. I was driving my Fathers' car one evening and heard a squeaking in the front. Pulled the wheels the next day and the bearings were dry and had been so hot that the ball bearings had turned purple. Thought maybe GM had digressed to the good old days.

stopher2
11-16-2009, 02:44 PM
RockAuto.com shows entire hub at TIMKEN Part # 513188.
this is the same part number throughout the internet for Timken...or pirate knockoffs.

RockAuto.com Wheel Bearings are at location: "2003 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER EXT 5.3L 325cid V8 FI (P) : Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Bearing".

i don't know if RockAuto includes races and seals, which I'd expect in a bearing repacking kit

....having a dual boat trailer WITHOUT tortion quicklube spindles, believe me, I remember :weird:2x/year ! :hopeless

stopher2
11-16-2009, 03:33 PM
I decided to backtrack MIBearings.com
I found they refer a product image to http://www.power-21.com/federalmogulpower21i. MIBearings likely resells federal-moguls parts.

Looking at the product catalog for Trailblazer 4x4 reflects that the front hubs are closed. The the rear hubs have rebuild kits for seals and bearings.

Digging deeper there, it looks like these have a subtle reference to "National" brand. LIkely BCA National, but I am not certain.

Nearly all 2nd's resellers appear confusing the actual manufacturer...including ebay and amazon sellers.

Timken is what I like, as I don't know about the other brands.
?? At least National is US ???

jaxflg8r
11-20-2009, 11:44 PM
Excellent thread. I just finished both fronts on 2wd in less than 1 hour. If you have ever done brake job with rotors,you are only 3 bolts away from the hubs. Stopped all the whining and groaning from the Envoy AND the wife.:thx

stopher2
11-24-2009, 10:19 PM
Be sure the hub is the problem...

i raised my front end and wobbled my wheels. the drivers side wobbled, but it wasn't the hub that is bad.

the driver side steering linkage had play in it; not the hub.

if you have play in the wheel, take it off and wobble it again to be sure there aren't link or axle problems behind the obvious bearing misdiagnosis.

nevertheless, i figure with 114k i'd replace it because the suspension was already dissected, yet again after i did the axle recently, and i'd rather not store a new hub.

puffer
11-25-2009, 05:58 PM
For all those wondering about Ebay off brand bearings BEWARE! The factory went out on me so i ordered a Chinese bearing and it went within 20k miles and i thought what the heck??? So i ordered a PAIR of Chinese bearings thinking maybe i tighened the axle nut to tight or something and caused the first one to prematurely fail. Well Chinese#2 lasted about 15k and now im on my 3rd Chinese bearing. Never again! Spend the extra for a good name!

teeroy
12-10-2009, 03:29 AM
first post, searching for GMC Envoy wheel bearing replacement and found the site. all questons answered in 5 minutes of reading, thank you for the excellent "how to" and great pictures!

2006 GMC Envoy XL SLT, 35,000 miles - left front wheel bearing howling and accentuated when swerving right, quiets down when swerving left.

Other than some early issues with fuel vent causing engine light to come on (replaced fuel tank under warranty), vehicle has been trouble free.

Troy.

billdaman
12-10-2009, 05:24 PM
For all those wondering about Ebay off brand bearings BEWARE! The factory went out on me so i ordered a Chinese bearing and it went within 20k miles and i thought what the heck??? So i ordered a PAIR of Chinese bearings thinking maybe i tighened the axle nut to tight or something and caused the first one to prematurely fail. Well Chinese#2 lasted about 15k and now im on my 3rd Chinese bearing. Never again! Spend the extra for a good name!

I agree. I might cost you a lot more than a few bucks if those sweatshop bearings fail catastrophically at say 80 or 90 mph. I worked in the bearing industry. Inferior quality "balls" , "races" , lubricant and heatreating are not something to mess with in drivelines. Particularily the balls. They are hardened you know, and ride in between the "inners" and "outers". Races I mean. The lubricant is also very important. A US manufacturer would only use certified lubricant.

tetchan
12-16-2009, 06:14 AM
Hi, I am new to this forum and living in Japan. I have an 02 Chev TB with 55K on it.
I have done this on my front left wheel bearing.. Great instructions! :thx
I bought a front arm Assy from a kind of ebay very cheap only $50. Bacause our dealer priced it $900 for one Hub assy, crazy!!
I disassembled the old hub and investigated the root cause of the noise. I broke the seal and bearing plastic cage, then washed the grease. Finally I found peeling on the outer race surface as you can see between the balls.:eek:

http://blogimg.goo.ne.jp/user_image/0f/12/a0d661e4d0c16030ca19431fbae5a6c8.jpg

abuziyad3
12-17-2009, 03:23 PM
Nice topic

thanks a lot ;)

billdaman
12-17-2009, 06:39 PM
Hi, I am new to this forum and living in Japan. I have an 02 Chev TB with 55K on it.
I have done this on my front left wheel bearing.. Great instructions! :thx
I bought a front arm Assy from a kind of ebay very cheap only $50. Bacause our dealer priced it $900 for one Hub assy, crazy!!
I disassembled the old hub and investigated the root cause of the noise. I broke the seal and bearing plastic cage, then washed the grease. Finally I found peeling on the outer race surface as you can see between the balls.:eek:

http://blogimg.goo.ne.jp/user_image/0f/12/a0d661e4d0c16030ca19431fbae5a6c8.jpg

Tetchan-san, I appreciate the disassembled bearing race photos, did the balls score against the inner or outer race or the retainer? I love to look at catastropic bearing failures! Can you provide us some photos of your truck in Japan? If you are not living on a military base wher do you park? It must be a chore to maintain an American Truck in Japan.

Cya Tetchan-san!

tetchan
12-19-2009, 06:50 PM
Hi,billdaman. Tha balls scored outer race on its upper most area and "outer" side. "outer" means road side not engine side. That part become damaded by being suffered from continuous truck weight and periodic centrifugal force of turning left.
The picture is generic hub bearing but taper roller type which are adjustable by adding preload. But ball bearing type of TB can not be adjustable and difficult to replace, need press machine. I guess GM designed TB hub to reduce parts cost and car assemble const.
As for my "American Truck(s) in Japan", are too big for our small place. My wife's car is Liberty KJ37. I like those trucks because I tow some trailers as you can see on my profile page. Oh,your hause is very big and pretty!
The TB parts are very expensive from the dealer. But sometimes very cheap from a kind of ebay, bacause very few people wants TB used parts in Japan.
Oh, not only used parts but also used turck, My TB was $16k 4 years ago, wife's 06 Liberty was only $6k last year.
http://www.aokids.jp/trailer/image/hubcross_s.jpghttp://www.aokids.jp/trailer/image/roller_s.jpghttp://www.aokids.jp/trailer/image/ball_s.jpg

mngopher22
01-24-2010, 09:34 PM
Great Great post i am having a problem and through your guys fantastic information i diagonosed it as bad bearing. I have a question though. I have a trailblazer 2004 4wd. Do i have to remove that center nut? I am confused if that has to be removed from the wheel hub and put on the new one i buy?
Anyways already got car up on jack stands wheel , caliper, and rotor is removed. I just want to clear this up. I think i am also going to buy this from ebay to replace it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280453296214#ht_3984wt_752

krusshall
01-26-2010, 05:39 PM
Can anyone tell me what the proper torque setting is for the three bolts that hold the hub?

the roadie
01-26-2010, 07:58 PM
77 ft-pounds for the hub bearing bolts
103 ft-pounds for the axle nut

NicotineJ
01-31-2010, 12:57 PM
Thanks so much for starting this thread and the great detail you posted! I knew the bearing on my '03 TB was going but wasn't looking forward to paying the shop to do it. Once I saw your pics and all the detail you posted I knew I could do it myself..but its 14 degrees in the driveway!!

So I got the assembly on Ebay for $64 incl. shipping and had it in less than 24 hours. Yea that was the sign that I'd have to suck it up and do the job myself in the cold...then it snowed on Thursday! Thought maybe it was another sign but then I remembered how cheap I am. So I cleaned off the top section and hoped that today it'd be at least sunny out.

Took me just over an hour from start to finish and I can't feel my ass but I just got back from the road test and OOOOOOOO...so quiet now!

Thanks Again for the help..now off to warm up!

Nic

billdaman
02-01-2010, 11:53 AM
Hi,billdaman. Tha balls scored outer race on its upper most area and "outer" side. "outer" means road side not engine side. That part become damaded by being suffered from continuous truck weight and periodic centrifugal force of turning left.
The picture is generic hub bearing but taper roller type which are adjustable by adding preload. But ball bearing type of TB can not be adjustable and difficult to replace, need press machine. I guess GM designed TB hub to reduce parts cost and car assemble const.
As for my "American Truck(s) in Japan", are too big for our small place. My wife's car is Liberty KJ37. I like those trucks because I tow some trailers as you can see on my profile page. Oh,your hause is very big and pretty!
The TB parts are very expensive from the dealer. But sometimes very cheap from a kind of ebay, bacause very few people wants TB used parts in Japan.
Oh, not only used parts but also used turck, My TB was $16k 4 years ago, wife's 06 Liberty was only $6k last year.
http://www.aokids.jp/trailer/image/hubcross_s.jpghttp://www.aokids.jp/trailer/image/roller_s.jpghttp://www.aokids.jp/trailer/image/ball_s.jpg

Tetchan, yes the sealed hub is definately a cost advantage for assembly as well as servicability. I prefer a sealed bearing because I despise periodic maintenance of repacking inner and outer bearings! I went for the higher quality bearing OEM type replacement hub because I just dont trust the ebay ones, but many people have had very good luck with them.

mike_mik
03-13-2010, 08:49 PM
eeehabt
Great how-to! Just did one of these today and it went almost exactly like your instructions. Well done. And thank you.:hail:

rcurley1
03-14-2010, 05:21 PM
Special thanks to eeehabt. After getting a $600 estimate to replace my front left wheel bearing I came to this site and found eeehabt directions and was able to do the job myself. So in two days i fixed my wheel bearing and my 0410 code, This place ROCKS! Thanks to everyone who contributes!

eeehabt
04-07-2010, 07:49 AM
eeehabt
Great how-to! Just did one of these today and it went almost exactly like your instructions. Well done. And thank you.:hail:

Special thanks to eeehabt. After getting a $600 estimate to replace my front left wheel bearing I came to this site and found eeehabt directions and was able to do the job myself. So in two days i fixed my wheel bearing and my 0410 code, This place ROCKS! Thanks to everyone who contributes!


You're welcome. I really can't express how happy I feel that my thread was helpful to you. Thank you for commenting.

gjpugh
04-09-2010, 09:21 PM
I am new to this and a first time TB owner. I purchase a 2003 that looks great and seems to run fine but there is an occasional squeal in the front right side. It is subtle and comes and goes. I am wondering if maybe it is a bearing issue.

any thoughts?

The pictures and instructions at the beginning are great and tell me that I can do this myself if and when needed.

strat81
04-09-2010, 09:48 PM
I am new to this and a first time TB owner. I purchase a 2003 that looks great and seems to run fine but there is an occasional squeal in the front right side. It is subtle and comes and goes. I am wondering if maybe it is a bearing issue.

any thoughts?

The pictures and instructions at the beginning are great and tell me that I can do this myself if and when needed.

One test to check for a bad bearing is to find a smooth stretch of highway (preferably deserted). Turn the radio and A/C off, and avoid windy or rainy weather as you want a quiet cabin.

Get the vehicle up to about 40-50mph.

As you are driving straight, turn the wheel slightly to the right, as if executing a slow lane change.

Repeat the process, except turn the wheel to the left.

If you hear a hum or grind when turning to the right, you may have a bad left bearing. If you hear it when turning to the left, you may have a bad right bearing.

This occurs because when turning to the right, the left front wheel receives a higher load due to inertia, and vice versa when turning to the left.

gjpugh
04-09-2010, 10:32 PM
thanks Strat81
i will give that a try.

r0adb10ck
04-26-2010, 09:29 AM
I did it Saturday.

So I consider myself an amateur when it comes to car repair, but I consider myself pretty handy. I bought the bearing from eBay, and started the project around 3:00. I finished up around 7:00. Plenty of trials along the way, especially getting that old bearing off. Wow was she stuck.

..at the end of the day, I got it on and the test drive was awesome. Noise/vibration gone.

Thanks eeehabt for saving me $400 bucks. You should get a commission.

Tim

GT6
04-26-2010, 09:19 PM
Wow, great post. I got a bad right wheel bearing so I'm going to tackle it. Thanks!

GT6
04-27-2010, 05:24 AM
Does anyone know how many footpounds do I torque that axle nut to when I'm done?

the roadie
04-27-2010, 10:30 AM
103 ft-pounds for the axle nut, and 77 for the hub bearing bolts.

GT6
04-28-2010, 07:48 PM
Thanks! One more quick question, I ordered my bearings from ebay and went out and bought the socket today. Early in the posts he says it is a 35mm socket and later says it is a 36mm. I bought a 35mm, do I need to return it for a 36mm?

the roadie
04-28-2010, 08:06 PM
Original GM CV shafts (if you have a 4X4) come with 35mm nuts. For some insane reason, the Cardone replacements come with 36mm. So if you want a new nut on new shafts, you need two sockets.

But I bought a 35mm socket, and I just re-use the OEM nuts all the time.

GT6
04-28-2010, 08:10 PM
Thanks, I was wondering if that was a mistake or not. I'll stick with the 35mm too. I appreciate the feedback.

jmel71
05-16-2010, 09:09 AM
Great Thread. Helped me in replacing mine this weekend. Used the Napa hub. :thx

04_TRLBLZR_LS
05-16-2010, 04:22 PM
Just replaced both my front hubs today. Just wanted to say thanks to everybody that added their input on this. Now I can enjoy a smooth quiet ride again!

GMfever
06-04-2010, 04:11 PM
I'm having so much :x luck here lately. I think I need to replace one of the hub assembly's on the envoy now. Sounds like tires on concrete road and gets louder from about 30mph and up. Quiets a little when steered one way louder the other.
I cant remember how this worked in the past on the monte .
If it gets louder when you turn one way it is usually the opposite side needing replacing?

Thanks for making and info in this thread. :thx

strat81
06-04-2010, 05:34 PM
I'm having so much :x luck here lately. I think I need to replace one of the hub assembly's on the envoy now. Sounds like tires on concrete road and gets louder from about 30mph and up. Quiets a little when steered one way louder the other.
I cant remember how this worked in the past on the monte .
If it gets louder when you turn one way it is usually the opposite side needing replacing?

Thanks for making and info in this thread. :thx

Generally, yes.

When you turn right, inertia pushes more weight to the left wheels.

howufiga
06-06-2010, 04:30 PM
So I don't have to pack the bearings with grease if i replace the whole front hub assembly? It doesn't look like there is any place to put the grease. Please let me know!

thanks!

mike_mik
06-06-2010, 06:27 PM
No, you don't have to grease it. The hub assembly comes with a sealed bearing, ready to install.

howufiga
06-06-2010, 09:07 PM
Ok, thank you for your response! I put mine on and a scraping sound got louder and louder. My father said I should have packed it with grease, but I saw no place to put the grease. Took wheel off and bent back heat shield. I had to knock off the heat shield off the hold hub and i must of bent it a little. So all it was was the heat shield was hitting the rotor THANK GOD!!!! My dad had me thinking I ruined a brand new wheel hub!!! lol

mike_mik
06-06-2010, 10:15 PM
Glad it worked out. Good detective work there. I forgot how much I had to bang and pry that shield to get it free.

GMfever
06-19-2010, 12:46 PM
Well I'm the :x lucky one. 2 days now and can not get the old hub to slide off the splines. Will not :x budge. Tried soaking it with penetrating oil and no go so far today. Needless to say I'm ready to sledge the :x out of it about now.

Give me some ideas how to get this old hub off so I can put the new one on.
:thx

the roadie
06-19-2010, 12:59 PM
Rubber mallets sometimes work. Sometimes you have to use the 5-pounder. If you do, make SURE to put the nut partially back on the shaft to protect the threads, and insert a piece of wood to protect the nut. Reassemble it with some grease to make the next time easier.

GMfever
06-19-2010, 01:46 PM
OK out of breath so on another break. Tried rubber mallet, it just laughed at me.

Just so you know I do have the hub supported by 2 square shafted screwdrivers so to keep from pushing all the way back in.

Tried the 2x4 wood over the 45mm nut method and just was slitting the wood into kindling hit after hit. So I broke out the 3lb sledge hammer and put the 45mm long socket over nut. Well found out that was a mistake after about the 12th pissed as :x hit. Tore the washer right off the 45mm nut :duh:.
So went back at with sledge and more wood. No go just busted into fine splitters. I swear it dont even looked like it has budge .

Fishsticks
06-19-2010, 01:52 PM
OK out of breath so on another break. Tried rubber mallet, it just laughed at me.

Just so you know I do have the hub supported by 2 square shafted screwdrivers so to keep from pushing all the way back in.

Tried the 2x4 wood over the 45mm nut method and just was slitting the wood into kindling hit after hit. So I broke out the 3lb sledge hammer and put the 45mm long socket over nut. Well found out that was a mistake after about the 12th pissed as :x hit. Tore the washer right off the 45mm nut :duh:.
So went back at with sledge and more wood. No go just busted into fine splitters. I swear it dont even looked like it has budge .


Might be worth the time and blood-pressure meds to procure another half-shaft from your local parts store and just replace it too.

GMfever
06-19-2010, 01:58 PM
Still would have the old one stuck through the hole (half shaft on one side and hub on other) even if I did that. Just using this pic to show the hole, not the yellow arrows this guy used.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5930&d=1248941660

Fishsticks
06-19-2010, 02:00 PM
Still would have the old one stuck through the hole (half shaft on one side and hub on other) even if I did that. http://forums.trailvoy.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5930&d=1248941660

Sorry, I wasn't clear. Getting a new half shaft let's you cut off the old one. :)

GMfever
06-19-2010, 02:04 PM
I figured thats what you were saying. But I have no room anywhere to cut anything around the hub area at this point and cutting torch I have access to is 3 hrs away.

Tried a 16lb sledge just now.

GMfever
06-19-2010, 03:28 PM
Well going last ditch effort. Got a propane torch and put the heat to it then sledge. No go, so then I tried heat then pour cold water over it then sledge, still no go. :crazy:

GMfever
06-20-2010, 11:13 AM
Is there some kind of puller that I can put on the wheel hub studs and use the axle shaft center to pull the hub assembly off?

No other ideas except cutting the axle?

strat81
06-21-2010, 09:37 AM
Maybe a slide hammer?

Got any handy friends? Two heads are better than one...

GMfever
06-21-2010, 10:33 AM
Wonder if this puller for front wheel drive cars, will work on the 6 lug front hubs on envoys? It also says can be adapted to use a slide hammer.

GMfever
06-21-2010, 11:53 AM
It appears the above puller is only good out to 4.5" (Front Hub Puller, Max. Spread 4 1/2 In., Min. Spread 4 In.), I need a 5" hub puller. Any ideas where to find one of those?

strat81
06-21-2010, 12:07 PM
Try Snap-on or Matco.

GMfever
06-21-2010, 05:42 PM
Found this one that adjust out to 7.5" bolt patterns. Anyone used one of these? Feedback if so. Cost $133.

(Has readily adjustable sliding arms to pull wheel hubs quickly and easily. Maximum reach is 7-1/2 bolt circle. Provides a straight pull - will not distort wheel lugs.)

strat81
06-21-2010, 06:22 PM
For that price, you might just want to bring it to a mechanic.

GMfever
06-21-2010, 07:54 PM
For that price, you might just want to bring it to a mechanic.

I was wondering about that. What would a shop charge to pull 1 and put new one on? $75-$100.

Heck I havent even tried the other side, but it dont appear to be the one out. Gets louder turning right and quieter turning left.

lint
06-21-2010, 08:10 PM
How far does the
spline end or nut go through ,,Can you put a plate across the end ,drill holes in it and bolt it on with two lug nuts ,,tighten it some then hit it with a sledge,with pressure on it .it could pop out
:m2:

Irish2685
06-22-2010, 09:35 PM
I had a problem getting my hub to separate from my axle shaft, so I had to rent
a three jaw puller from Autozone. Put it on the hub, and the center on the axle. Tighten it as tight as possible, then tighten it some more. Then, bust out the hammer and hit the center of the puller. Tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer... You get the picture. When you get it all apart, put some anti-seize on the splines, so next time the bearing goes again, you or the next owner will not have this problem. Also, if you have access to an acetylene torch to heat things up, that will help as well. A propane torch will not get hot enough.

GMfever
07-02-2010, 04:35 PM
Just a update for those that run into a stubborn one like I did and dont have the proper tools to take care of it. Shop rate was $75 to replace one side.

strat81
07-02-2010, 09:10 PM
Just a update for those that run into a stubborn one like I did and dont have the proper tools to take care of it. Shop rate was $75 to replace one side.

Thanks for letting us know, sorry we couldn't help you.

After the aggravation, $75 doesn't sound so bad!

GMfever
07-03-2010, 09:42 AM
Found this one that adjust out to 7.5" bolt patterns. Cost $133.

(Has readily adjustable sliding arms to pull wheel hubs quickly and easily. Maximum reach is 7-1/2 bolt circle. Provides a straight pull - will not distort wheel lugs.)

Thanks for letting us know, sorry we couldn't help you.

After the aggravation, $75 doesn't sound so bad!

You guys helped big time. I just didnt want to pony up and spend $133 for the tool I found to take off the stubborn one. Man if I was 100% sure it would have worked, it would pay for itself on the other side if it is stuck too :worried:.

:thx

Irish2685
07-03-2010, 09:56 AM
Another thing that may help really stuck on hubs is back the nut off a little bit, and spray PB blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil) for like a week before you actually do the repair. Obviously you want to tighten the nut after you spray it in there. That will give it plenty time to soak and loosen any rust or anything that might cause it to stick.

schwebby
07-08-2010, 12:42 PM
Thanks eeehabt - the post was a big help! I changed the front drivers side on my wifes 05 TB yesterday at only 57,000 miles! Hopefully the AutoZone Duralast last a while.

GMfever
07-09-2010, 08:57 PM
Changed the passenger side today and there was no problems like the drivers side was last month. :woohoo: Both sides done now for first time with 107K :cool:.

Photo 10:
Squeeze a regular screwdriver at the point shown with arrows and pull the bearing out. Installation is the reverse but don't forget to place the big O ring on the hub before installing it.



After re-reading the OP post. I do have one question. When you say O-ring are you meaning the metal dust deflector? I've done the envoy and monte and thinking that's what you were talking about. Thanks again for the thread.

Clockman06LT
07-29-2010, 04:20 PM
Ordered two hubs yesterday to put in next weekend. Nice write up to refer to, thanks.

mtackie
08-07-2010, 10:23 PM
Great writeup. I used it last week to fix my bearings. My 2004 TB now rides as silent as a ghost.

I modified eehabt's procedure slightly. I have referenced photos I took in a similar manner to eehabt:

When he says "Photo 5: take the brake assembly off"
I used a c-clamp to compress the pads slightly to make them easier to remove and put back on.

When he says "Photo 8a: remove the two bolts first..."
I used an extension on my rachet which allowed me to not turn the ssteering wheel while removing the three bolts.

When he says "Photo 10: squeeze a regular screwdriver at the point shown with arrows and pull the bearing out..."
This did not work for me, since everything was rusted together. I used a small sledgehammer to pound out the half shaft by about 1/2 an inch (photo 10a-mod), then I put a piece of wood between the hub assembly and the mounting plate (photo 10b-mod), put the axle nut back on, and (with a piece of wood to protect it) pounded on the axle nut until the half shaft frees itself from the splines of the hub/bearing assembly.

hotcharity95
08-17-2010, 08:40 AM
A mechanic said the bad front hub bearing was causing the ABS to "crunch" at speeds below 10 mph. He said the sensor was reading 0 when the other wheels showed 11-13 mph, which triggerede the abs. I'm going to replace the bearing since it's bad, but has anyone had the bad bearing affect the ABS?

Inspector630
08-26-2010, 06:35 PM
Thanks to everyone for the input on this thread. Helped me out alot today as I tackled this job. I agree with the others, it was pretty easy to do yourself. I went with the cheap model from detroit axle for $49.00. Came off pretty easy until I got to the bearing itself. Was pretty rusted on there. Sprayed it with lubricant and then tap on it for a little bit. Found once it seperated a bit, I got a old flat head screwdriver and tapped it in, then was able to get a chisel in there. Tapped it and then it fell right off. Put it all back together and it rides great.


ABS ISSUE: Bought this car in december of '09, took it to the dealer 3 times to fix the brake problem only to be told they couldnt find anything. Well today after I got it all together, I put the ABS sensor fuse back in and the brakes work fine now. Not a bad day, fixed both problems for $50 bucks. Thans again!!

crazybos
09-10-2010, 12:46 PM
Awesome write up! I am researching to do my drivers side. Noise gets worse when I turn right. Which wheel bearing is the best for our trucks. I didn't see any on RockAuto for my 4x4 4.2 I6 not ext. I would rather get what works best for our trucks then just buy any at AutoZone, AdvancedAuto, Napa etc... I already have BP Blaster as that stuff is the BOMB! . With 125,000 miles is it woth doing anything else while working in this area? Half shafts, sensors etc... Thanks again for all of you TravilVoy GURU's.

DSpoelma
09-23-2010, 07:45 PM
Does anyone have a NAPA part no for these? Thanks in advance,

Dan

Diablo03
09-28-2010, 12:34 PM
question (maybe a dumb one) but how long can you live with bad wheel bearings?

i.e. how quickly do i have to deal with this problem?

iwalkonwater
09-29-2010, 11:27 AM
Just made the above repair to my 2002. job went just as shown with no problems. took 1hour and 15min start to finish. saved a bundel doing it myself in the driveway. Thanks for the help

gelato
10-01-2010, 11:22 PM
thanks to this site for the helpful tips.
just did both driver and passenger side bearings - took about 1 hour each side.
felt some front end vibration at around 35-40 mph, only when going straight. turning left/right did not make any noticeable changes in sound/vibe. truck has 89.5k on the oem hubs.
purchased the el-cheapo china parts on ebay for $44/ea. buyer beware, we'll see how they hold up.
i think my 18mm offset box end wrench is permanently attached to my hand now... the "pro" way to do it would be to get a snap-on shallow 6 point integrated swivel impact and run the 3 hub bolts off in a snap. the darn things had about an inch of blue loctite on them from the factory. on top of that, there isn't much room to swing the wrench (1/8 turn....forever). a normal ratchet/swivel/socket will not fit in there. if you need to break them loose at the start, there is just enough room for a 1/2" breaker bar and shallow 18mm socket.
a 36mm socket and impact gun took care of the axle nut nicely. the pass side hub came off with a slight hit from a 3lb sledge. the driver side was a little more stubborn, it yielded to a 2-jaw gear puller (not seized up though). i think the pb-blaster helped free up the splines.
i live in the rust belt (snowy salty winters), and man did the backing plates take a beating. they're so corroded that i was debating whether to replace them (major rust flakes and swelling), but said what the heck and put them back on.
as previous posts have stated, the old hubs did not "feel" worn out (excess play/slop), so i'm not sure which side was making the noise. replaced both sides just to be safe.
took it out for test drive - no more high pitch vibration through the steering wheel anymore. i fixed the bearings before they started to make the loud humming/vibration that some people notice. problem solved.
counting the days before the cv shafts and ball joints give out...
put some anti-seize on the cv splines for just this future occasion

eericksen
10-03-2010, 03:29 PM
I think it was mentioned once before, but should have been in the first post. Kudos for that post by the way it was a huge help. One tool I reccomend highly is a gear puller...my hub laughed at me with a screw driver as im sure most others would. A two finger gear puller $23 at advance auto solved my two hrs of bitching and spraying in 2 minutes!

EnvoySLE02
10-05-2010, 02:00 PM
Great thread. Did the Passenger side Sunday morning. The ABS light came on immediatly after I started the Truck, before I even drove off. I tried removing the negative off the battery for 30 minutes, did not help. I disconnected the connector off of the new Hub (assembeled on the truck) and connected the ABS sensor connector on the old hub (sitting on the ground) and started the truck, still the ABS light is on.
The ABS light was on all day sunday and Monday (about 8 to 10 start ups on the ingnition). This morning it was gone when I started the truck, and did not come back during my 30 minute drive to work.
Any body else had this happen to them? Is it normal for ABS sensors to throw a code like this after you replace the hub?

djspinna33
10-06-2010, 02:50 PM
just wanted to say thanks for this thread. Changed out both my front bearings this past weekend and it was a easy job. So happy i didnt take it to a shop where i was quoted $800 for the repair.

hawkhuff
10-06-2010, 05:45 PM
This will be my third hub replacement. The first two times I had it done by a mechanic and each time cost nearly 4 hundred. Both on the passenger side. This one sounds like the driver side.

After reading every post on this thread I have sullied the courage to do mine! I've done stuff like this before but it's been quite a while.

Well, the real motivation is to not spend another stack of cash, especially if I have to change them every year or so. I do all highway driving so I don't know what the problem might be.

I don't have a 35 mm socket, gear puller, a C clamp that large, or jack stands but..... it's high time to get 'em. :yes:

So, I have some questions.

1.) If I do this, a disk brake job should be a whiz, right? I am paying way too much in comissions (Midas) for this stuff.

2.) Rock Auto.com doesn't have front backing plates ('02 Envoy 4WD). Anyone know where else I can get them for cheap?

3.) NAPA has two hubs one from SKF which are $254 and the other from Fenco for $136. Anyone familiar with this Fenco company?

Thanks for all the great posts.

hawkhuff
10-23-2010, 05:24 PM
Any comments???

Good afternoon.

I just finished replacing a wheel bearing hub assembly, drivers side, on my '02 Envoy. I printed out the directions and photos to have with me for the job.

Everything came off exactly as described and I located everything easily. I did need a gear puller to get the hub off and it did the job smoothly. Thanks for the directions and images they were very helpful.

Now I have to replace the other side soon. It will be the fourth hub in 110K miles. :mad: However, this time I bought a few tools (35 mm socket and gear puller) and a new Tomken Hub for $132 (Amazon) so it saved me some green. The last two replacements cost me nearly 400 for each.

My ride is much quieter now, I can actually hear Tom Petty and his Heartbreakers when they sing. The other side is humming but it isn't anywhere near as loud so it can wait until maybe the spring.

Thanks for the great article.
:thx :thx :thx

sanger35
10-23-2010, 06:07 PM
I have an 02 trailblazer Ext 4x4. First right side bearing went at 44K mi. Left side at 66K. Today we redid the right again at 97K.

Got my 35 mm Wheel Nut Socket at Pep Boys. Great investment.

Found the bearing on-line at Advanced auto for $117. They wanted $135 at the store but gave it to me at the internet price. Know your prices. The chevy dealer wanted over $400. Always have to go to the chevy dealer for the wheel nut. $6.50. I asked them how they could mark up the wheel bearing 800% and he just smiled. ebay is under $85.

I was surprised this fixed my problem as it didn't sound the same as the first two times. The first two were a definite metallic scraping sound and when you took the bearing off they were shot. This time I had a severe vibration and a rub. No metal sound. I waited, which cost me a tire that wore out with a wear pattern across the tire about every 12 inches around. Tire noise was loud. Swapped tires front to back and the roof rack was singing too. Replaced the tire with the spare and then I knew I still had an issue up front. Figured it wasn't suspension components as that would cause tire wear all the way around. I have replaced the shocks though I didn't need too, but I figured that if I get 150K on the SUV then replacing the shocks at 75K would be half way.

Looks like my front differential might be leaking. But I didn't want to remove the shock, springs, and ball joint to get to it. I've had issues with AWD jumping in and out so I normally don't use it. One good thing having a bearing go out is that the AWD doesn't screw up.

Now I'm wondering if the severe vibration from the wheel bearing also caused the front differential to cv joint seal fail too. That means that the wheel bearing failure might have cost me more than just a tire.

As for reliability the Trailblazer has never left me stranded. But I have replaced the transmission oil cooler line, radiator lines, front break line, 3 front wheel bearings, push nut on the passenger mirror, and rear differential cover. Plus I've patched the tailgate as it rusted through, and I had the rear AC disconnected as the lines corroded. Won't be buying another $30,000 chevy truck, ever. Figure gas will be at $4/gal again plus at $34K over 8 years that is over $4200/year. Actually the first six years were about $6K/yr and the truck is only worth another $6K if I replace the tail gate, and the wheels, and the tires, and the...

Biggest pet peeve is having a push nut hold down a spring keeping the mirrors on a $38,000 list SUV. Chevy REALLY? No cotter pin? No self locking nut? When is my driver side mirror going to fail? On the highway at 70 mi/hour? Instead of picking up water bottles on the side of the road I'm surprised the roads are not littered with GM side view mirrors.

Bob G
11-01-2010, 06:31 PM
Roadie - lots of talk of different bearing/hub options on this thread. You have replaced many hubs - what is your preference in parts?

the roadie
11-01-2010, 08:06 PM
I've used a couple of Timkens from rockauto.com, but recently I have used and keep a pair for spares of used OEM ones with 20-30K mileage off wrecks that I find on Ebay or car-parts.com for $50 or so. One of the ones I had in the past was on the classifieds here from a member who bought it and never used it and traced inthe vehicle, so I snagged the bargain. I also carry a couple of CV shaft spares, but always buy the $60 Dormans from rockauto for that purpose.

Heck, even a 70K used hub has lived a sheltered life compared to the trail abuse it sees after I "adopt" it. ;)

Bob G
11-01-2010, 10:25 PM
Thanks Roadie - you are the best man!

the roadie
11-01-2010, 10:32 PM
Thanks for the kind words, but take my advice with a grain of salt. What I do is no way close to "normal" and I'm even disappointed in the performance of the Timkens when pushed beyond normal boundaries. I run with wheel spacers that amplify the stress and extremely heavy tires and wheels (80+ pounds), and 500+ pounds of cargo all the time.

hawkhuff
11-03-2010, 08:12 AM
I located these wheel hubs on EBay for 77 bucks with free postage to boot.

Anyone know anything about hubs made by a company called United? Anyone had any experience with these hubs? :confused:

Bob G
11-05-2010, 09:05 AM
Thanks for this informative thread! Pulled into garage at 5:30pm and out at 7:20pm for test drive. This includes a ~20 minute dinner break. So all in all, I think the next replacement will take about an hour. I had a 36mm deep socket in my toolbox and I had to search four stores before finding a 35mm socket (O'Reillys $15). However, it turns out the axle nut was a 36mm - this is the original nut as I am the original owner. Not sure what is going on there. Also, when I purchased the hub the auto store employee cautioned me to ensure I torqued the axle nut. I have a calibrated elbow, if you know what I mean, but I did torque the axle nut.


Anyway, replaced the left hub and noise is gone now! The worst part was trying to remove the ABS wire from the clamps, then found that new hub had clamps on wire! All in all, not a bad job!

As an aside, I did put some anti-seize on the axle splines for ease of removal next time. It wasn't tough to remove the old hub, but it didn't just slip off.

Thanks to all for the helpful comments on this thread and on this site!

Bob G

nearpar
11-09-2010, 05:47 PM
I have a 2003 Envoy with 192,000 miles on it. The right hub started making a howling noise about a week ago. The left was still good, but replaced it anyway. I got a lot of miles out of theose original GM hubs. Buy them from Dearborn Axle ! They are made in Detroit Michigan and come complete with wiring harness and new clips already attached. The price is outstanding for an American made part at only $ 40.00 each with FREE shipping !!!
You can find them on Ebay....

cemeb4dk
11-11-2010, 02:30 PM
well Sept of 09 I replaced my driver side hub assembly with the cheaper Napa one. I think it was $155 or so. The bearing is still fine but now the ABS sensor is bad in it, and it causing the brake pedal pulsating at slower speeds. Tried to clean the sensor and all but to to avail. I have not gotten any codes or lights, but I can here it clicking out side as it pulsates.

So I will be replacing with a Timken, as my local Chevy dealer told me the stock replacements are outrageous $421 just for the part, and he said Timkens are the same and thats what he woudl recommend.

Ordering hub this weekend and will update after install

the roadie
11-11-2010, 06:32 PM
You didn't keep the old hub or the sensor out of it, I assume?

cemeb4dk
11-12-2010, 09:58 AM
No, I didn't I think its more internal in the hub then the actual sensor. I wish I would of kept it just to see if that was the problem or not. If the passenger one ever goes out ( bearing wise) I will keep the sensor. But for the sensor being $80 or so might as well just get the new hub. Just kinda disappointed in the Napa one, I usually get decent products from the.

00steffe00
11-23-2010, 08:26 AM
Hi!

I have an 02 TB which has done about 110 000 miles. Now I have a "hmmm"/humming sound from the left front wheel...

It's probably this bearing that's bad, huh? or could it be somethin else?

br

mike_mik
11-24-2010, 01:18 AM
Its a pretty sure bet that its a bearing. Is it quieter when you turn to the left, and louder when turning to the right? If so, you are correct. Anyway, the instructions at the beginning of this thread are spot on. Good luck.

00steffe00
11-24-2010, 06:52 PM
Its a pretty sure bet that its a bearing. Is it quieter when you turn to the left, and louder when turning to the right? If so, you are correct. Anyway, the instructions at the beginning of this thread are spot on. Good luck.

exactly! more noise when I turn right! I just ordered both left and right side bearings on eBay, 75 dollars for both... (we'll see how long they last, since they're not genuine GM, I'll give it a try)

thank u for your help!

/stef

dmat
12-03-2010, 04:14 PM
Hi all, :)

Yesterday I changed the Front Wheel Bearing of my truck. I took photos of the process for all to benefit from.

Photo 1:
Loosen the axle and the wheel nuts. Jack the truck up.

Photo 2:
Secure the rear wheel by placing the wheel locks behind and in front of it. Wheel locks come along with every truck.

Photo 3:
Remove the two bolts that hold the Brake assembly. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 4 (2 photos):
Free the ABS sensor cable from all its mounting points and unplug it.

Photo 5:
Take the Brake Assembly off. Secure it in a way that protects the brake hose from damage.

Photo 6:
Hold the Brake Disc at the points shown and pull it out the hub. Careful not to touch the soft surface just to keep it clean and grease free.

Photo 7:
The bolts that hold the hub containing the bearing.

Photo 8A:
Remove the two bolts first. Then, turn the steering wheel all the way right to reach the third bolt. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 8B:
The location of the third bolt that holds the hub. You can use closed end wrenches or sockets. I loosen and tighten with the first and remove with an automatic wrench. (The shoe has nothing to do with the process). :crackup:

Photo 9:
Place a nut on a wheel bolt and gently hammer it out. This is if you want to keep the bolts for future use as they get damaged easily especially when you don't remove them for a long period of time, like a year or more, or when your bad luck takes to a lousy craftsman who damages them for you.
By the way, using the truck with one of the nuts lost damages the wheel ring and causes lack of track control.

Photo 10:
Squeeze a regular screwdriver at the point shown with arrows and pull the bearing out. Installation is the reverse but don't forget to place the big O ring on the hub before installing it.

Photo 11:
To install a bolt back in the hub, make sure that you support the hub with a long socket to prevent bending it when you hammer the bolt in. It's clear in the photo. (You can use a hydraulic press if available)

Photo 12:
In order not to end up with lost bolts or nuts, or forgotten to return ones, I advise that you get yourselves a magnetic plate like the one shown here. it holds your bolts and nuts tight even if you work under the truck and you mount it on the chassis face down. Mine is Toptools brand. It's very cheap.
The other arrow shows where you should keep the wheel while working. This location prevents damage to the truck if the jack fails to hold it and in case it slips or falls.

That's all for now. It was a very easy thing to do.

The axel nut is a 35 mm for sure on the axel nut and it is to be torqued to 103 ft lbs.

dmat
12-13-2010, 07:54 PM
Thanks to all the posts for the help in a sucsessful diagnosis and repair of my wheel hub assembly. It took about 2 hrs but i'm sure as others have said it could be done faster the next time. As others i sourced a replacement part locally off ebay for $60, and with the purchase of a 35mm deep socket, and a 18mm wrench and 18mm socket the total cost off the repair was about $100. That was $500 cheaper then the local mom and pop garage and over $600 from the dealer. The noise is gone and driving is now enjoyable again. Thanks again to everyone who contributes, it is great that we can all help each other to enjoy our vehicles. Dave


Axel Nut 35mm 103 ft lbs
Wheel Nuts 19mm 100 ft lbs
Hub Assembly Nuts 18mm 77 ft lbs
Brake Assemnly Nuts 18mm ??? (if anyone knows pls add)

clyde42055
12-15-2010, 03:16 PM
well im trying to do mine and i couldnt get the axle nut off but i had it raised already if i keep it on the ground it wont spin good thinking lol
what size axle socket should i b using i have a 35mm i think but it felt a tiny bit lose but idk if the next one down will b to small any answers? thanks for any help

Bob G
12-15-2010, 03:32 PM
well im trying to do mine and i couldnt get the axle nut off but i had it raised already if i keep it on the ground it wont spin good thinking lol
what size axle socket should i b using i have a 35mm i think but it felt a tiny bit lose but idk if the next one down will b to small any answers? thanks for any help

Most threads here state the axle nut is 35mm but mine was 34mm. And it is stock as I am the original owner. Good luck!

Just changed the front wheel bearing on wife's car - 2001 Infiniti I30 - and it was a big pain in the butt! The GM engineers made some good decisions...

the roadie
12-15-2010, 03:55 PM
As far as I know, OEM nuts are 35mm, Cardone replacements are 36. You can always have somebody in the vehicle step on the brakes to get the nut off if you haven't removed the calipers. Otherwise engage 4HI or 4LO and that will stop the CV shaft from rotating if it's the only one in the air. .

vegaskennedy
12-19-2010, 01:00 PM
I've been psyching myself up to do this for several weeks now, and this is the push I needed to get it done! Thanks! :tiphat

Ricky81
12-21-2010, 01:27 AM
Great write up....thanks for the pics...helped alot....only took me 2 hours...lol...took longer than expected but well worth it....not fun doing it in minus 12 degree weather....:thumbsup:

blazer02
12-21-2010, 10:03 AM
Great write up and pics. Been a while since I had to change out a bearing and this really jogged the memory. Mine is only 2 wheel drive so it took only about 45 minutes to get the job done and back on the road. After spending only $42 on Ebay and a little time in the drive I'm very pleased. :woohoo:

blazer02
12-21-2010, 10:10 AM
Just for future knowledge. I bought mine off Ebay for only $42 from seller discountbodyparts. They have a very good seller rating and I received my part 4 days after payment.

epguy3087
12-29-2010, 10:18 AM
i'm in the middle of this job right now. Great instructions, I'm having no problem following them.

However, I am having A LOT of trouble getting the brake caliber assembly off as it says in step 3 using a 18 mm socket. I've sprayed it with PB rust buster, and I cant even budge the bolts.

This is the first time I have had to take the wheel off (I havent need brakes or anything yet.) So do you think that it is just because I havent loosened them before?

strat81
12-29-2010, 10:20 AM
Have you tried a breaker bar?

epguy3087
12-29-2010, 10:34 AM
Thanks, I hadent tried that. I had tried a cheater bar on the end of the socket wrench. I had to use the breaker bar with the cheater bar and my body weight to get it loose. :thx

hardtrailz400
12-29-2010, 10:40 AM
Broke 3 ratchets last night on my rear caliper bolts. A little tapping with a hammer and some penetrating oil then using two box wrenches together for leverage worked for me.

c72lt1
12-31-2010, 12:32 PM
What's the final answer on the 2wd axle shaft piece and nut that is installed on the original front bearing assy by GM? Do I need to install it on the new bearing assy (no shaft or nut came w/ it, Timken) or just install the new one without it?

the roadie
12-31-2010, 02:06 PM
It's a GM design mystery, only used on the SS 2WD models, and all I can think of is that it makes the unsprung weight heavier for some very subtle reason. We may never know.

It's not there to keep the bearing together or anything since the 2WD non-SS trucks don't have it.

c72lt1
12-31-2010, 03:53 PM
It's a GM design mystery, only used on the SS 2WD models, and all I can think of is that it makes the unsprung weight heavier for some very subtle reason. We may never know.

It's not there to keep the bearing together or anything since the 2WD non-SS trucks don't have it.

Oh well I guess I will remove it and install it on the new one. Thanks

mmichalske
01-18-2011, 03:02 PM
I replaced both sides yesterday with help from a friend. He had a better impact gun. The right tools make a difference. We took off the steering arm and it made getting the 3rd bolt out easier. I bought both hubs off ebay from detroit axle for $79.00 which included shipping. Its an easy fix, thanks for the help.

Jonnieh3
02-04-2011, 07:18 AM
Thanks for the DIY,
I did both last night in less than an hour, It really is not hard at all.
The pictures and description were great, the hubs I got had all the new plastic clips on the ABS sensor wiring, so I just had to clean off the old ones and snap the wiring back in place. they also had the wheel studs on them too.
I got a pair for $137.00 and free shipping at 1aauto.com
Very happy with the quality and fit, they were perfect.
Thanks again
John

reederhb
02-13-2011, 04:03 PM
Just replaced the right side on my 2WD Trailblazer, everything went well, great info helped a lot. There is no axle bolt in the 2WD. bolt sizes are 15mm for the brakes, and 18mm for the hub. Penetrating oil was necessary.

tsw501
02-26-2011, 11:45 AM
Dumb question but the bolts won't move either way and I don;t want to break. can somebody indicate direction to loosen the bolts on the brake assembly for a 2003 trailblazer

wardak33
02-26-2011, 11:49 AM
Dumb question but the bolts won't move either way and I don;t want to break. can somebody indicate direction to loosen the bolts on the brake assembly for a 2003 trailblazer

Lefty Loosey, righty tighty.

the roadie
02-26-2011, 12:10 PM
Breakers bars and a BFH are sometimes required if you don't have impact tools.

http://www.bfhgarage.com/BFH-Images/ovalsticker.jpg

nooga
03-03-2011, 08:09 AM
I have to give props to this forum and particularly this thread. I was able to diagnose and fix the "humming" myself without having to throw money at a mechanic or dealership. I ended up trying the wheel bearings from ebay so I'll report back on ow well they do, but so far so good, thanks!

JamesK
03-08-2011, 09:49 PM
I only have this truck to drive. I wanted to make sure I have all the right tools before I begin.
Thanks!:thx

nooga
03-09-2011, 09:23 AM
I used a 35mm and 24" breaker bar for the axle nut, 18mm for the brake assembly, pb blaster the day before. I didn't need to use a puller, but you may want to have one on hand to save you from having to put everything back on to go to the store.

matt_simes
03-15-2011, 12:50 PM
I just did this on my 2004 TB and I needed to use a propane torch on the 2 harden bolts that hold the caliper bracket together. You can pick up a torch kit from home depot for under 20 bucks. Just be careful not to torch brake lines, cv axle boots, or the rubber boots on the caliper. Only put about 20-25 secs of heat on each bolt. They should come out really easy doing this. Just BE CAREFUL!!!

matt_simes
03-16-2011, 12:37 PM
One problem that I ran into and it seems to be a problem collectively, is actually removing the wheel bearing hub unit from the axle. After several thousand miles and years of rust and corrosion, parts seem harder and harder to come apart. My solution was to use a bearing puller, with 3 arms. I unbolted everything as this article indicates. I then sprayed the axle spindle with penatrating oil and then sprayed where the hub seeded against the axle. I waited about 5 mins for the penatrating oil to work and then used the puller. The whole unit slid right out. Easy as pie. I would highly suggest using a puller so you don't damage any CV joints or your 4wd system by trying to hammer the hub out. If some one wants, I can take pictures of the process I used. I think the total time it took me was under 1 hour. I'm by no means a mechanic, but I use this site and I have a little commom sense with a few tools in my garage.


Recomended Tools for the Job

MiBearings- Wheel Bearing... Best out there!
A floor jack
Jack stands
18 mm socket
18 mm wrench
17 mm socket
17 mm wrench

35mm axle socket- (Just rent one from your local autoparts store) Or pay for it and take it back.

Flat head screw driver- To pop all the clips for the ABS system(I think?)
Penatrating oil- PB Blaster works awesome!
A 6 in puller- (3 arm)
A 4 inch C-clamp- for re-seeding your brake caliper
And maybe a torch for your REALLY subborn bolts... BE CAREFUL!!!

I think thats it.

GOOD LUCK!!!

crappiekid
06-01-2011, 03:18 PM
I followed this post and have successfully replaced the faulty front drivers side hub.

Thanks!

DennisNYS
06-18-2011, 02:17 PM
Thanks to the OP for this informative post.
Just finished installing both front hub assemblies on my TB.
Took about four hours, with a lunch break.

FYI I live in a state that uses ton of salt on the roads in the winter.
Still was pretty easy to remove the old hubs.
LOL, it was harder to disconnect the ABS wiring connectors.

Don't hesitate to tackle this job.
Anyone close by that needs a hand, PM me.
You supply lunch ;)

smmoore2
06-20-2011, 05:48 PM
Hi all, :)

Yesterday I changed the Front Wheel Bearing of my truck. I took photos of the process for all to benefit from.

Photo 1:
Loosen the axle and the wheel nuts. Jack the truck up.

Photo 2:
Secure the rear wheel by placing the wheel locks behind and in front of it. Wheel locks come along with every truck.

Photo 3:
Remove the two bolts that hold the Brake assembly. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 4 (2 photos):
Free the ABS sensor cable from all its mounting points and unplug it.

Photo 5:
Take the Brake Assembly off. Secure it in a way that protects the brake hose from damage.

Photo 6:
Hold the Brake Disc at the points shown and pull it out the hub. Careful not to touch the soft surface just to keep it clean and grease free.

Photo 7:
The bolts that hold the hub containing the bearing.

Photo 8A:
Remove the two bolts first. Then, turn the steering wheel all the way right to reach the third bolt. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 8B:
The location of the third bolt that holds the hub. You can use closed end wrenches or sockets. I loosen and tighten with the first and remove with an automatic wrench. (The shoe has nothing to do with the process). :crackup:

Photo 9:
Place a nut on a wheel bolt and gently hammer it out. This is if you want to keep the bolts for future use as they get damaged easily especially when you don't remove them for a long period of time, like a year or more, or when your bad luck takes to a lousy craftsman who damages them for you.
By the way, using the truck with one of the nuts lost damages the wheel ring and causes lack of track control.

Photo 10:
Squeeze a regular screwdriver at the point shown with arrows and pull the bearing out. Installation is the reverse but don't forget to place the big O ring on the hub before installing it.

Photo 11:
To install a bolt back in the hub, make sure that you support the hub with a long socket to prevent bending it when you hammer the bolt in. It's clear in the photo. (You can use a hydraulic press if available)

Photo 12:
In order not to end up with lost bolts or nuts, or forgotten to return ones, I advise that you get yourselves a magnetic plate like the one shown here. it holds your bolts and nuts tight even if you work under the truck and you mount it on the chassis face down. Mine is Toptools brand. It's very cheap.
The other arrow shows where you should keep the wheel while working. This location prevents damage to the truck if the jack fails to hold it and in case it slips or falls.

That's all for now. It was a very easy thing to do.

Looks like I need some tools!

gray 04 blazer
06-24-2011, 10:45 PM
great write up and pics.....ill be doing mines monday when the pice comes in ...ill deff be using this as a stepping tool ....Any comments???

keitho64
07-06-2011, 06:18 PM
I just went on a 400 mile vacation and the drivers side front bearing decided to go. It happened at my destination so with the help of Car Quest and TrailVoy I was done in about 1.5 hours and made it back home without any incidents!

Excellent step by step instructions with pictures.

Thank you.

semloh314
07-17-2011, 11:47 PM
thanks for the write up & pics. Completed mine this weekend, nice and quiet again! no more rocket launcher sound...the noise for my vehicle was just gradually louder at higher speed and some noise as well when changing lanes.

my vehicle required significant efforts to remove the rotors and hubs due to lots of rust. I will agree with those recommending a puller and/or soak time of these parts with WD40 etc.

jbmag45
07-24-2011, 03:51 PM
I think I have a front bearing in need of replacement, but I have a 2WD version. Is this a similar process?

The sound and vibration I am getting is vehicle speed dependent, and is louder when turning to the right, even slightly at 30-40 mph + At first I thought it was a tire issue, having just rotated the back to the front. Any thoughts?

SparkyJJO
07-24-2011, 04:26 PM
Same process except you don't have to mess with a CV axle. You have it easier.

Trailblazerinsd
07-25-2011, 01:21 PM
nice write up

Zero34543
07-25-2011, 03:04 PM
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b227/zero34543/1f9e09f9.jpg

Somehow there was bearings missing.....:weird:

Peanut
07-26-2011, 10:31 AM
There are forums and then there are great forums and this one definitely is a great one! I want to thank those that put the time in to post pics, make suggestions, and give tips for this. It sounds like a bigger job then it is. Someone mentioned its no harder then changing brakes... just a few more steps and that is hands down right on the money. This has been one of the easier things I've done on a vehicle. I also want to thank those who recommended the Timken hub assmebly... I was able to get it from Autozone for 150 and get a 20 dollar gift card for spending 100 bucks.. so that was great. Beats spending the hundreds the shops charge for this and it is not a 600 job.

If you were thinkin about it but weren't sure.. do it. It really is as is easy as changing brakes. Sure spaces are tight, but it was far easier to move around then some other jobs. I'd do that again before I change a serpentine belt on some cars..HA!

LowSlow O FO
07-30-2011, 07:16 PM
eeehabt : your info is the gift that keeps giving. Plus everybody else who chimes in. I just changed my right front in about 2 hours. Everything went pretty smooth.
I noticed some are using a puller. Possibly for the brake disc? The brake disc has threaded holes to allow a bolt maybe a 1/4 20 MAYBE. to be inserted and push the disc off the bearing housing. This may be already stated 10 times,just that eeehabt picture how to needed no more info for me. Good job.
I bought my bearing on Ebay , I will give it a try I bought 2 for 88 or so dollars. Yes I know you get what you pay for. I will let every body know if they hold up.
The seller is http://stores.ebay.com/axleofdearborn . They seem very highly rated. It is out of character for me to buy something less that the best. I couldn't help but read the success some people had and thought I could change it out quick if it fails.
This Forum is the best.

kenn
08-01-2011, 04:29 PM
I replaced my last week. Both fronts although I think the drivers-side was the bad one. My philosophy is if one is going the other is not far behind. I ordered Timkens from Rock Auto. Broke a 12pt SK Tools 18mm socket trying to get the brake pads off! I couldn’t find my 6pt. Anyway, I had problems getting the wheel bearing to loosen off the 4x4 shaft. I sprayed plenty of PB blaster days before but the only thing that worked is a baby sledge tapping all around the bearing – gently and the passage of time. I used the 36mm Lisle socket I picked up at a great Napa store near me (they have a machine shop inside and rent tools if you need them). I placed the 36mm socket over the axle shaft and tapped on the end with the sledge. The bearing finally came off. As someone suggested I put grease on the shaft to ease the new ones in and pre-started the bolts to hold it in place. I was 4 hours per side from start to finish. However save a ton of bucks! Thanks to everyone here for all their help!

gregheff
08-08-2011, 04:52 PM
Back in my younger days I used to work on cars all the time, now that I am older I only do it out of necessity. My TB has taught me how to change an exhaust manifold, power steering lines (corroded and leaking) Transmission Lines (Corroded and leaking) replace the oddest E Brake setup Ive ever seen! Replace 2 rear door handles that broke! How does a door handle break? Let alone 2 of them :). And now I know how to change a hub, out of all the things I have listed above the hub had to be the easiest out of them all! Thanks for the great guide in this post and if I can do it anyone can. My TBEXT has also taught me how to 4 wheel on the beach with my family, go on some sweet camping trips with our popup. How to be patient, how to save money because I know its only a matter of a short time B4 something else breaks. Peace out until the next repair!

Greg

LowSlow O FO
08-15-2011, 05:38 PM
Just back from a vacation in Maine. My 88 a pair hub has had no problem . I actually brought the spare and all the tooling with me. It easily fit in the well in the back.
I will let everyone know if I have any sign of a problem. The name on the hub box is ENKIDU . Anybody ever hear of ENKIDU? At 44 dollars each I gave it a shot. So far so good 800+ miles.

10856
08-15-2011, 09:06 PM
another shout out for a great post , just put a new reybestos hub on the passenger side , will do drivers side before the end of the week, no problems thanks to this post. I hope to get some good miles on these
$83 reybestos(made in china) hubs.......after all i got 120,000 miles and 9 years on the factory hubs...........thanks again trailvoy

scoulter4
08-19-2011, 05:56 PM
I can not get the hub off.... any suggestions?? It seems to be siezed on... Im right in the middle iof this project now so any help would be appreciated greatly.

SparkyJJO
08-19-2011, 06:01 PM
You have the axle removed and the 3 bolts that hold it on removed, and the hub won't come off the spindle?

bbarber275
08-31-2011, 01:04 PM
I have been lucky on the Trailblazer with the hubs coming off. I did have one on my 2005 GMC Sierra that was stuck on like I have never seen before.I ended up have to use a air hammer to get it off. The bearing came out, but the bearing housing was stuck in the steering knuckle.

Oldtimer1979
09-03-2011, 03:22 PM
:tiphat:tiphatWell for starters, I am not a mechanically inclined person. 50 yrs. old and 2 back surgeries later, I am not nimble. But this site is amazing. I just replaced both hubs ina little over 1 hr.

I read where if you turned the wheel LEFTand the noise got louder , it was the RIGHT hub. And if you turn RIGHT and it was loader , then the LEFT hub was bad. Well, I swore it was the LEFT hub by all indications.

So I jacked up the front and checked both sides for play. The RIGHT hub had some play and the LEFT was tight. But based on the posters saying the indications above and against my new findings of play in the tires, I switched out the LEFT hub.

The truck made the SAME roaring noise and vibration. So I went and replaced the RIGHT hub, and WOW, the noise and vibration is gone.

So lesson was learned, if the wheel has play in it, then replace it .

The PICs were dead on. I sprayed penetrating oil on the 3 bolts and had no issues getting them off .I used a gear puller to pull the hub off , and used an impact wrench to turn the threaded puller, and boom out she came.

Weeg
09-12-2011, 03:51 PM
Thank you eeehabt for a great write up, also many thanks to all others. Based on this great site I was able to diagnosis problem and had all the necessary information replace the hubs.

Weeg:):thx

D10man
10-02-2011, 03:53 PM
just a quick question. I'm new to the envoy/ t/b thing (fiancee's ride) and I have to do the front hubs tomorrow they're making noise. I've decided that I'm going to do the axle shafts as well, if I have it that torn down I might as well do it all at once and save the hassle later on. My question is can I remove the axle shaft without removing anything other than you've listed here or do I need to break it down even further?

D10man
10-03-2011, 02:40 PM
OK, so the envoy is back on the road after about 3 hours of repairs. Thanks to everyone here for putting up such informative posts, that was a huge help for me. I put it up on jackstands last night and stripped both sides down to the bare hubs (tires, brakes, rotors all off) and liberally dosed everything I thought would need to come off with Kroil. Got started around 0900 and finished just before noon. I found that having a 3lb brass hammer was a great help, almost as much as scouring the threads here for the last couple days!

SparkyJJO
10-03-2011, 05:28 PM
Glad it went pretty smoothly :thumbsup:

D10man
10-03-2011, 07:01 PM
yeah, for a first time evolution (sorry corporate speak is becoming ingrained in my head from work) it was pretty straightforward and simple. For obvious reasons the second side went even easier

eeehabt
10-07-2011, 08:16 AM
eeehabt : your info is the gift that keeps giving. Plus everybody else who chimes in. I just changed my right front in about 2 hours. Everything went pretty smooth.
I noticed some are using a puller. Possibly for the brake disc? The brake disc has threaded holes to allow a bolt maybe a 1/4 20 MAYBE. to be inserted and push the disc off the bearing housing. This may be already stated 10 times,just that eeehabt picture how to needed no more info for me. Good job.
I bought my bearing on Ebay , I will give it a try I bought 2 for 88 or so dollars. Yes I know you get what you pay for. I will let every body know if they hold up.
The seller is http://stores.ebay.com/axleofdearborn . They seem very highly rated. It is out of character for me to buy something less that the best. I couldn't help but read the success some people had and thought I could change it out quick if it fails.
This Forum is the best.

:tiphat:tiphatWell for starters, I am not a mechanically inclined person. 50 yrs. old and 2 back surgeries later, I am not nimble. But this site is amazing. I just replaced both hubs ina little over 1 hr.

I read where if you turned the wheel LEFTand the noise got louder , it was the RIGHT hub. And if you turn RIGHT and it was loader , then the LEFT hub was bad. Well, I swore it was the LEFT hub by all indications.

So I jacked up the front and checked both sides for play. The RIGHT hub had some play and the LEFT was tight. But based on the posters saying the indications above and against my new findings of play in the tires, I switched out the LEFT hub.

The truck made the SAME roaring noise and vibration. So I went and replaced the RIGHT hub, and WOW, the noise and vibration is gone.

So lesson was learned, if the wheel has play in it, then replace it .

The PICs were dead on. I sprayed penetrating oil on the 3 bolts and had no issues getting them off .I used a gear puller to pull the hub off , and used an impact wrench to turn the threaded puller, and boom out she came.

Thank you eeehabt for a great write up, also many thanks to all others. Based on this great site I was able to diagnosis problem and had all the necessary information replace the hubs.

Weeg:):thx




Thanks a lot for your nice words. I'm honored to serve people like you and all the members in this great forum, and I'm really happy that this thread has been of great help to you. You can Advanced Search my user name to find other helpful tips in fixing envoy and trailblazers.

Oldtimer 1979: I had the same problem in diagnosing the damaged bearing on my own truck. It drove me crazy. I used to hear the noise getting louder when I turned right. So, I changed the left hub and went home without testing it (I was so sure I did well). The worst thing I did was throwing away the old hub. When I drove it the other day, it produced the same grinding sound. I went crazy as that was completely against logic and against my expertise. Anyway, I went and got a new hub and replaced the passenger side and then it was OK. :hissy: I lost the original GM good bearing in trash.
Lesson learned: Lift the truck, check for odd movement up and down, check for slight grinding sound before deciding to change the hub.

Thank you all again for being here. :tiphat
eeehabt

strat81
10-07-2011, 09:09 AM
One thing noticed when I replaced mine was that the bad bearing was more difficult to turn by hand (and felt gritty) compared to the new one.

eeehabt
10-07-2011, 09:22 AM
One thing noticed when I replaced mine was that the bad bearing was more difficult to turn by hand (and felt gritty) compared to the new one.

The original GM bearings are as you've described, hard to turn even if they were damaged. Other brands are looser.

Clockman06LT
10-07-2011, 03:24 PM
Installed a Timkin hub on the right side last night. Replaced a cheap made in China hub that only lasted a couple of years. Funny thing is the left hub is still fine even though its the same brand as the one that just failed. I replaced both of them at the same time a couple of years ago. Hoping the Timkin holds up longer as its made in the USA :thumbsup:.

Matt The Hammer
10-10-2011, 02:19 PM
Replaced my driver's side this weekend with a MIBearing hub. $140ish and delivered to me in two days. Thing fit perfectly.

Although, re-running the ABS wire through the 6 clips was a pain.

35mm sockets are great. I swear I had one in my garage, yet when you need it, the tool gremlins hide it. So what's $12 more spent at the store?

pgarcia53
10-14-2011, 01:14 PM
Thanks to all of the information on this thread, I was able to correctly diagnose the wheel bearing problem on my Envoy. Although it looks very easy to replace, I had the dealer do it since it was still covered under the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty as well as the 12,000 mile GM Certified Used Vehicle warranty (I've put on 10,000 miles on the truck in the 3 months I have owned it). From reading the messages on this forum, it looks like i'll be replacing them on my own after the warranty expires, as they don't seem to last too long! This may not be unique to our vehicle, a friend has an Explorer with about 250,000 miles and he has had to replace his wheel bearing/hub assemblies several times. Probably come from the same supplier!:thx

Fore V
10-22-2011, 08:06 PM
I finally did replace the right hand wheel bearing. Thank you for all the input!
Cheers to all!

vegaskennedy
10-23-2011, 11:14 AM
The instructions and pictures made this job much easier, but for those of you with a 2WD definitely go for it - much easier! The hub assembly (MasterPro from O'Reilly) was completely sealed. It bolts on with the 3 bolts from behind - they are very easy to get to. No axle nut to remove. I took the caliper off which created extra work, but it actually made it easier to get the brake pad housing off. 2 hours from start to finish including a trip to the parts store. Cheap part, yes, but to save several hundred dollars I can probably replace the assembly in an hour if I have to do it again. There's a huge sense of accomplishment after finishing this job. Does anyone know what labor costs would have been? I want to tell my wife what I'm worth! :thx

Kristis Dad
10-23-2011, 02:46 PM
There's a huge sense of accomplishment after finishing this job. Yeah isn't it great!

Does anyone know what labor costs would have been? I want to tell my wife what I'm worth! :thx Ahh...the good ole days, young at heart! lol many though, don't get it:crazy:

Fore V
10-23-2011, 02:55 PM
The job rate should be between 1.5 and 2.0 hours. Here in Windsor, ON; $80 per hour plus 13% tax. I happy to have done it. I found a SKF wheel hub bearing assembly at NAPA for $179. I stayed away from the China stuff. I do not like to do things twice (specially car repairs).
Cheers

palafoja
10-23-2011, 03:13 PM
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=92252

am I going to need to change mine??

xxfile
10-30-2011, 10:53 AM
Just performed this and as advertised about 2 hrs for the first and 1.5 for the second... just had some seized guide pins in the brake carriers that held up the process for a bit... then i broke one off... but I got it out. Still this is an easy job no special tools all the shops were talking about pullers and presses and blah blah blah... dealer price to do brakes and hubs about 2500 (700) each for the hubs at the dealer.
I got hubs for 135 each in CANADA which is unheard of here and brakes for 225 rotors and pads sooo I figure i saved about 2 grand but i DID scratch my hand and my knee is a bit sore, and theres a small stain on the garage floor...

palafoja
10-30-2011, 11:44 AM
Did mine yesterday, took Me about 2 and 1/2 hrs to do both,but now the ABS engages Most of the time I step on the brake:confused:(bad hub, or sensor?):(
And I found my Lf cv shaft boot is leaking grease, so I guess that's next in line.

the roadie
10-30-2011, 11:58 AM
Sensor or wiring up to the connector you had to take the old one off of.

palafoja
11-02-2011, 07:53 AM
Did mine yesterday, took Me about 2 and 1/2 hrs to do both,but now the ABS engages Most of the time I step on the brake:confused:(bad hub, or sensor?):(
And I found my Lf cv shaft boot is leaking grease, so I guess that's next in line.

Sensor or wiring up to the connector you had to take the old one off of.


as I drive the truck it's doing it less(ABS engaging), but I notice that it does it only if I'm braking and than take some pressure off the pedal(not completely let go and only under 10 mph) but if I press firmly on the pedal until a complete stop, it does not do it:confused:

I called the parts store and asked them if they would replace ONLY the sensor(since I don't know wich one would be faulty) but they said that since they sell the hub and sensor as 1 unit I would have to take the whole thing back to the store, so I'm going to give it a couple of weeks to se if it dissapears completely(I'M JUST HOPING), LIKE I SAID IT'S DOING IT LESS AS i DRIVE IT

palafoja
11-05-2011, 01:46 PM
So I thought it was getting fixed on its own as I drove the truck, but its not :duh:

I forgot to mentioned that when I was finishing with the instalation on the right side(had not started on the left yet) I was about to plug the sensor to the harness and I heard a snap and though the connector broke, I called the store and asked if they would replace only the sensor so I would not have to remove the whole hub again and they said no, so I swaped the sensors, from the hub in the box to the hub already on the truck and viseversa, than I relaized the connector did not brake in the first place and just installed the other hub on the left side with the sensor I pulled form the right side(both brand new)

did I maybe let some dust or debris in to the sensor rings while swaping them?? Woul it be possible that if I pull them back out and clean them the problem(abs engaging at low speed braking under 10 mph) would go away?

did I explain this right???

RBYkid
11-06-2011, 02:23 PM
I replaced my right front today. Took me about 2 hours and that included cleaning rust off my backing plate and giving it a nice coat of flat black paint.

The hardest part of the job was uncliping and recliping the ABS wiring.

I wanted to order from Ebay but procrastination forced me to buy mine from Autozone.

Thanks for the good write up.:thumbsup:h

InRBigness
11-07-2011, 09:07 PM
I did mine today and used MIbearings hubs. They were awsome and made in the US for the price of Chinese.

In reading all the posts in this thread I noticed many had trouble loosening the hub from the housing. I used a Cold chisel and a small sledge. I undid all the bolts and then placed the chisel at the point where the hub and the housing meet and gave it 3 whacks. It popped it loose with no issues. It is a combination of wedge action of the chisel and the force of the hammer to loosen it. No damage to anything including the hub I am tossing out.

My hubs had 245,000Km on them and I used no penetrating oil or any pullers.

Just a tip that may help others.

palafoja
11-13-2011, 02:50 PM
So I thought it was getting fixed on its own as I drove the truck, but its not :duh:

I forgot to mentioned that when I was finishing with the instalation on the right side(had not started on the left yet) I was about to plug the sensor to the harness and I heard a snap and though the connector broke, I called the store and asked if they would replace only the sensor so I would not have to remove the whole hub again and they said no, so I swaped the sensors, from the hub in the box to the hub already on the truck and viseversa, than I relaized the connector did not brake in the first place and just installed the other hub on the left side with the sensor I pulled form the right side(both brand new)

did I maybe let some dust or debris in to the sensor rings while swaping them?? Woul it be possible that if I pull them back out and clean them the problem(abs engaging at low speed braking under 10 mph) would go away?

did I explain this right???

I got tire of hearing, feeling and thinking about the malfuctioning ABS(sensor and did not know wich side) and since I was under warranty(only 2 weeks) and being so easy to do, I decided to just take both hubs out again and exchange them. put the new ones on the truck and problem solved

:offtopic: I did my rear brakes as well(pads and rotors) got the wearever rotors from advance and got a free set of pads from autozone(duralast gold c-max) and also discovered my Ebrake was completely destroyed on both sides, I thought about replaceing that as well, but decided no to do it, I never use it anyway(stoped using it when it stoped working and I thought it was the cable, but now I know why It stoped working )

the roadie
11-13-2011, 02:55 PM
... Ebrake was completely destroyed ...I never use it anyway...Never get safety inspected where you live? Never worry about a brake or power boost failure? Never allow a lighter or weaker person to drive the vehicle? Never drive around with loved ones? :confused: :nono:

I'd love to have such an uncomplicated life. :hail:

SparkyJJO
11-13-2011, 03:08 PM
Heh, I drove without the parking brake functional on mine until I replaced the rear axle recently. It didn't work so I figured something was just out of adjustment. When I took the old axle out I found the entire ebrake hardware had been removed by the PO :weird:

Really, it is more of a parking brake than an "emergency" brake. I wouldn't expect it to be able to stop the vehicle at all, not fast enough in any emergency situation anyway :no:

palafoja
11-13-2011, 03:20 PM
Never get safety inspected where you live? Never worry about a brake or power boost failure? Never allow a lighter or weaker person to drive the vehicle? Never drive around with loved ones? :confused: :nono:

I'd love to have such an uncomplicated life. :hail:


Here in the chicago land area with all the salt on the roads during winter, things such as E-brakes tend to rust and stop workin or simply get distroyed as was the case with my rear brake dust shields also

the roadie
11-13-2011, 03:57 PM
...things such as E-brakes tend to rust and stop workin or simply get distroyed ..OK, as long as you have a valid excuse. ;)

...I wouldn't expect it to be able to stop the vehicle at all, not fast enough in any emergency situation anyway :no:OK, as long as you have a valid rationalization. ;)

Stephen6868
11-14-2011, 09:10 PM
do the hub and bearing come 2gether? or do you have to remove the hub from the bearing? judging from the photos in the sticky it comes 2gether. I just want to make sure that i order the right part.

strat81
11-14-2011, 09:39 PM
do the hub and bearing come 2gether? or do you have to remove the hub from the bearing? judging from the photos in the sticky it comes 2gether. I just want to make sure that i order the right part.

It's a single piece that includes the hub, bearing, and ABS sensor.

palafoja
11-15-2011, 05:04 AM
do the hub and bearing come 2gether? or do you have to remove the hub from the bearing? judging from the photos in the sticky it comes 2gether. I just want to make sure that i order the right part.

Hub, bearing and ABS sensor, all 3 in one piece and really easy to do.

PastorKramer
12-16-2011, 11:48 PM
Heh, I drove without the parking brake functional on mine until I replaced the rear axle recently. It didn't work so I figured something was just out of adjustment. When I took the old axle out I found the entire ebrake hardware had been removed by the PO :weird:

Really, it is more of a parking brake than an "emergency" brake. I wouldn't expect it to be able to stop the vehicle at all, not fast enough in any emergency situation anyway :no:

Guess it depends on where you live and how much you value your safety / life. I grew up in a very hilly area -- where we always kept our tractors' & trucks' brakes up to snuff AND parking brakes on our cars were part of that too! AND you always, ALWAYS used the parking brake when parking ON THE HILLS.

As to thinking that the "parking brake" is just for parking, well, yes that is its primary design use these days I guess. HOWEVER, in keeping with my "up bringing"... I discovered that a school bus I was driving for our Boy Scouts had next to nothing for a parking brake. I pulled the drum and brake shoes off the unit (around the drive shaft) and reworked -- new drum and shoes -- tweaked up to where it should be.... AND about a month later I was exiting the interstate on an off ramp, going downhill when the brake pedal suddenly went soft. (Later discovered a ruptured brake line in the back.) You can't imagine how glad I was that I had rebuilt the PARKING BRAKE!!!! I was headed downhill at about 45-50mph with a traffic light at the bottom AND lots of crossing traffic!!!! I grabbed the "Emergency Brake" and pulled like my life depended on it -- it did, along with the scouts and leaders!!! and we stopped with room to spare! NO, we didn't stop as quickly, but we stopped! And yes, there was a definite "hot brake" smell from that one brake drum and shoes stopping the 54 passenger bus, but it did what it was suppose to do as an EMERGENCY BRAKE -- what they used to be called more often then parking brakes. I can also speak of another time when I was driving '78 Cadillac Eldorado when the master cylinder suddenly failed while pulling off the road into our shop -- fortunately, once again, the "parking brake" -- EMERGENCY BRAKE -- brought it to a stop without injury or destruction of property. SOoooooooooooooo, I canNOT stress enough, KEEP THE EMEGENCY BRAKE in good repair and ADJUSTED so that it works AND USE IT REGULARY!!!!! The parking brake / emergency brake on these GM TBs/Envoys/Bravadas is actually like a small drum brake AND not that hard to keep in good working condition. I sometimes use our "parking" brake on hills (vs. 2 feet) to start up at a light / stop sign; AND I apply it everytime I shut off any of my vehicles -- it's simply a habit. FYI, I can usually tell every time I drive someone elses vehicle if they use their parking brake or not... and sadly, there are probably more that don't get used then do. Way back when -- the 60s -- when I took drivers ed, use of the emergency brake was part of the training (as it was when I got my first chauffer's for big trucks -- guess they don't teach that anymore? Yes, I'm a stickler for keeping things in good repair -- probably got that first from Dad & Grandpa, and later flying for the US Air Force -- there's no pulling over at 30,000 feet when something doesn't work right, and you for darn sure want the brakes to work when you land at 120mph... and don't want to coast all the way to the end of the rwy. Now as far as I know emergency brakes are designed to be able to "lock-up" the wheels (or at least they used to be)... and, in an emergency, 2 wheels braking are certainly better then none in my book! just my 2 cents worth ;)

BLEnvoy03
12-30-2011, 11:21 AM
Did both sides last week. Thanks for the nice write-up and pics. My Envoy has limited life left in it, so I just used cheapo bearings off ebay for $75/pair. Very quiet, smooth ride now.

Few notes about my experience:

1) Most people have said if you're getting noise on a left turn, you need to change the right bearing, and vice-versa. It was the opposite for me though. I swapped out the right bearing first, since left turns were making the most noise. Well, after I finished, I took it for a quick test drive, and left turns were as noisy as ever, but the right was quiet. Thought I screwed something up :crazy: The next morning I did the left side bearing and everything was dandy on both sides.

2) The steps are simple, but man o man was it tough to get a couple of those bolts out. On both sides, the two 18mm bolts that hold the brake assembly were unbelievably difficult to remove, even after a long soaking of PB blaster. By far that was the hardest part of the job, I almost gave up.

Thankfully I had a 3-jaw puller to get the bearing assembly off, otherwise I think that would have been really tough as well.

3) On my right side, there was no connector for the ABS line. I was going crazy looking for it at first, then thought that maybe they had sent me the wrong bearing. Then I realized that some work must have been done down there before, because the ABS lines were just spliced together without the connectors.

So I cut off the connector on my new bearing's ABS line, spliced it in to the truck line and sealed that up with some shrink tubing. Of course, 5 seconds later, I realized I should have just unplugged the line from the old bearing and plugged it into the new one.:duh:

4) Why did GM have to use 18mm bolts? We have half a dozen metric wrench sets here at work, and I also have one at home, and not one of them contains an 18mm wrench of any kind. At least there were an abundance of 16, 17, and 19s though :p I had every other tool I needed, so I had to run to the store just to buy one stupid wrench!
------------------------------

Thanks again for the write-up and all the advice given in this thread. It was a ton of help.

mcmartz01
12-30-2011, 04:08 PM
for those who want long life on these bearings, I replaced passenger side just over a year ago and picked up the part with a one year warranty at autozone. Wouldn't you know it, in the 13th month the thing went bad again.... that said I just replaced both sides and went with the 3 year warranty part from O'Rielly's this time. Cost was $150 each compared to the $100 for the one I will be replacing for the second time. Job was pretty easy and believe me I am no mechanic.... I wouldn't even say I am a weekend mechanic... Just have confidence that you can get it done and it is pretty simple swap out. The pictures at the top of this thread are perfect to give you an idea of what you need to do.

jthill
01-02-2012, 01:12 PM
Has anyone tried the VALUE PRO Part # 513188 Driven Hub w/ Integral ABS from rock auto? its 52$ vs 101$ for the Raybestos part they stock or 140$ for the timken.

mcmartz01
01-02-2012, 01:20 PM
Being that I have replaced both sides and The passanger side twice I would say you get what you pay for. Passenger side lasted 12 months after the original lasted nine years. Go with the higher priced part and save yourself doing it twice.:thumbsup:

jthill
01-02-2012, 03:33 PM
I guess i was wondering because after reading all 24 pages of this thread ive come to the conclusion that Timken, Raybestos and pretty much every other brand available aftermarket has failed on one person or another after a years use. Im curious as to what brand the actual Value Pro is. Maybe a white box that says made in china? :rotfl:

palafoja
01-02-2012, 10:59 PM
Has anybody used Mevotech? I got Mevotech outer tie rods (left and right) with no problems, and am waiting(delivery) on mevotech sway bar links for my wife's 02 town and country. But as for Hub assemblies, how good/bad they are?

K-9SAR
02-06-2012, 10:54 AM
hw can you tell what front hub is bad. When I turn right the noise goes away. could it be the back?

TrailblazrI6
02-06-2012, 11:02 AM
hw can you tell what front hub is bad. When I turn right the noise goes away. could it be the back?

No. The rear axle is a solid tube design and do not have hub assemblies. Rather, they have serviceable bearings that are pressed in. Their failure presents a difference noise and to be honest, they dont fail often like the front hubs do.

Usually, if you turn the wheel to the right and the noise appears, its the left bearing that is bad. The bad bearing will make noise any time a load is put to it and when you turn right, the weight of the truck shifts to the left side. You could also jack the front end up and grab the tire. Try to wiggle it and feel/look for any movement. However, not all bearings that go bad have any noticeable play in them.
FWIW, each time my front hub/bearing assemblies have went bad, once I had them off the truck I could feel the bad bearing by spinning it by hand. I never had play that could be visibly seen by grabbing the tire.

Jeffk
02-15-2012, 12:22 PM
Are these assemblies rebuildable with new bearings? Was wondering if I rebuild my stock assemblies with new Timken bearings, and keep them for spares when these Chinese ones fail.

tpirocz
03-05-2012, 01:52 PM
just replaced the right front on my 06 4x4 with 122k. i followed the directions int he first post. overall very easy. the old hub did require a few good hits with a hammer to get it out. i installed a timken hub/bearing.

jayfire2620
03-26-2012, 08:22 PM
Beating my head against the wall on this one, had the rumble when driving and replaced both front bearings. Had no problems with the switch out, wiring ran great, parts came off and went on easy, etc....it was to good to be true. Went to jump in and take it for a spin and see how it was running now. Rumble is now gone but NOW I have a problem....

My ABS light has now come on, AND I am getting a message saying "Service Stabilitrak" with that light on also. I have checked the wires, the connections, everything I can think of and it all visually looks fine and is all connected.

FYI, 2006 TB EXT 4x4 w/ I-6. Replaced with Timken new bearing parts.

I still have the wires from the old ones should I switch them out? Is there any type of seal that I need to use where it hooks to the bearing since its exposed to all the elements there or will it seal fine just by screwing it down?

keitho64
03-26-2012, 09:48 PM
Jayfire

I had the same issue with the ABS light coming on after I swapped the wheel bearing out. The wiring for the ABS sensor was not secured to the spindle as the plastic plug / snap did not connect. This caused the wire to flop around and give the false light. I used wire ties to tie up the wiring to the spindle and it worked like a charm. I am on the road for the next week but can take pictures to show you what I did.

palafoja
03-27-2012, 05:35 AM
Beating my head against the wall on this one, had the rumble when driving and replaced both front bearings. Had no problems with the switch out, wiring ran great, parts came off and went on easy, etc....it was to good to be true. Went to jump in and take it for a spin and see how it was running now. Rumble is now gone but NOW I have a problem....

My ABS light has now come on, AND I am getting a message saying "Service Stabilitrak" with that light on also. I have checked the wires, the connections, everything I can think of and it all visually looks fine and is all connected.

FYI, 2006 TB EXT 4x4 w/ I-6. Replaced with Timken new bearing parts.

I still have the wires from the old ones should I switch them out? Is there any type of seal that I need to use where it hooks to the bearing since its exposed to all the elements there or will it seal fine just by screwing it down?


ABS would engage every time I steped on the brake after replacing both hubs, I just took them out and replaced them again. Take them back to the store and tell them your problem, and since you don't know wich side is causing the problem you want to exchange them both, it solved my problem.

jayfire2620
03-27-2012, 02:04 PM
Was exhausted last night but I have no time this week to get back to them so I went back out and worked on them some more last night....till midnight, errr!

I hooked up the old wiring harness and just left the old bearing on the ground. I hooked it to one side then the other. When I hooked it to the driver side the lights went out. I started to examine the wire closely and when I got to the end where the harness is I noticed that one of the two wires was slightly out of the back of the harness. When I looked at the inside where the connection is, I saw that one of the 2 male prongs was just barely in the harness.

It seems that when they assembled the harness they didn't secure, or glue the back of the connection well and when I would go to hook it into the receiving harness it was being pushed out the back. Simple fix, pushed it back in and applied a small amount of super glue to the back of the harness. Waited just a few and plugged it back in. Light is now off and it works fine. It sucks that when you buy the more expensive bearings that you would expect them to be better quality. Instead I had to spend a couple extra hours online and tearing it all apart and reassembling it all again trying to track down the problem. And then to find out that it was a very minuscule thing to notice just out of sheer luck cause it was hanging at the right angle....err would have been pissed cause next thing was to take it all off, drive 30 mins to get a new one if it's in stock and put a new one on again. Would not have been happy!

Thanks for the replies and it sounds like the first one was similar with crappy harness problems. Hope this helps someone else if you have the same problem.

lostjedi71
05-26-2012, 07:54 AM
Thanks for the instructions. I was able to replace the right front wheel bearing without problem. NTB wanted $350 to do it.

I wonder if there is design flaw somewhere. I had to replace the right front wheel bearing at 40K, the left last year around 90K, and the right again at 110K.

Thanks again

Hello_Newman
06-12-2012, 10:35 PM
Thanks for the instructions. Had a neighbour help me out and it took about an hour.

noodle
06-29-2012, 02:50 PM
Thanks for this excellent post. I recently started to hear a droning sound from the front and felt vibration through the steering wheel - another poster described it as similar to a baseball card flapping in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. First I suspected my tires. I inspected all four and noticed the two front tires were worn down to the wear indicator bars on the outside of the tread. I figured the wear indicator bars must be the cause of this noise and vibration. So I went to Costco and got new tires installed. I asked for only two tires but the tire guy said all four tires must be replaced since 4WD vehicles rely on closely matched tires for the driveline to operate properly; it is not advisable to drive around with one or more tires having slightly different diameters. So the new rubber was installed in all four corners. But when I drove away, the droning and vibration were still there!

Further Trailvoy reading landed me at this post and I then figured the wheel bearings were probably the culprit. However, I just don't have the time to tackle this repair myself, nor can I be bothered with sourcing the parts or extra tools. Then I read further and noticed one poster mentioned that his extended warranty covered this.

Fantastic! I looked into it and indeed my extended warranty covers this. I took the Envoy into the dealership today and they replaced both front wheel bearings/hub assemblies. The cost of parts was $314 each side plus $175 total labour for a total cost of $804. As this was covered under the extended warranty, I only had to pay the $100 deductible. Nice!

Now I'm back on the road, smooth and quiet again!

MoJoRisinII
10-31-2012, 08:54 AM
Had the howl going on with the 2004 and determined by doing the swerve test that it was the driver side.

Came apart fairly easy (except for all that loctite on the hub bolts). Back seal cap on the bearing was separated and there was quite a bit of rust on the inside of the bearing - definately the problem - 93K miles.

Replaced with Timken 3 yr warranty hub which I got at Autozone for $125 (they matched advance auto's online price which was 25% off) yahoo!!

Also did the throttle body cleaning and seafoamed the intake using their new spray last week. Had a bit of a cloud going but nothing drastic. Much improved there with smooth idle instead of sloppy idle.

Next up CAT (have had a CAT code for a while). Oh boy!!