LED Flasher Relay [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: LED Flasher Relay


bigapple
08-29-2009, 09:45 PM
Hey guys, I'm new to this site but was a member of an Explorer Forum for about 3 years so I am familiar with how these work. The Explorer was sent to the junker for the cash for clunkers program and I was awarded with my mom's 2004 Envoy.

I have already converted the front low beams and fog lights to HID (6000k lows and 5000k fogs). I have done a full interior LED conversion and changed out the bulbs in the reverse lights and license plate lights to LED. I am looking to take the next step with blinker bulbs and brake bulbs.

I am familiar with doing LED taillight bulbs because I changed them out on my old Explorer and used load resistors to get them to flash normally. I wanted to find an easier fix for this though rather than tapping into a bunch of wires.

I have taken some pics of the blinker relay. It is a GM 12450284 relay that is used on most GM trucks. It operates the blinkers on the truck and for the trailer lights (when using). I've included pics of where the relay is located and how to remove it. Use a flathead screwdriver to push the small tab down and slide the clips to the larger holes. It should slide out the whole thing. Then push back the grey clip to loosen the hold on the relay. You may need to use a flathead to pry out the relay too. Be careful not to damage it. Here are the pics and now for the good news.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1251591961207.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1251591995303.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1251592024724.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1251592076333.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1251592129529.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1251592170341.jpg

I have found a solution to the relay. I have found a product online called named GM LM455. It is the same 10 pin relay except with the right load for LED bulbs or a mixture of LED and incandescent bulbs. I am ordering one and will see what the outcome is. Here is a pic.

New Relay:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31nPk5Hcz3L._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Sleezy E
08-29-2009, 09:51 PM
awesome man! hope it works out! definitely keep us posted!!
:thumbsup:

bigapple
08-29-2009, 09:59 PM
Wow, already a sticky. I guess this has been a question for everyone for a while. I will definitely update once everything is in.

iscoot71
08-29-2009, 10:17 PM
i love LED

barelybenjamin
09-14-2009, 09:50 PM
I got the LM 487 (Napa) and it works perfectly for all my LEDs EXCEPT the tail running lights (the ones that come on at night). I don't know why, but everything works fine, including cruise control and the brake lights, but the tails just don't come one when the headlights do. Are you having the same problem?

bigapple
09-14-2009, 10:10 PM
Mine just came in the mail today and I have to say I'm disappointed.

It clearly says "LED" on the front, but I still have a hyperflash issue. I pulled the relay apart and compared it to the OEM relay and they have almost identical inside parts except one piece (which I don't believe makes a difference but I could be wrong).

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1252976663024.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1252976705343.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp257/bigapple828/1252976732697.jpg

Clearly says LED but definitely no improvements with the flasher. A little upset.

How much was the LM 487 and where was it purchased? Do you have LEDs at all corners?

barelybenjamin
09-14-2009, 10:13 PM
I got the LM487 from Napa and they charged about $75. They didn't have it in store but they got it there in about 5 hours, good customer service. I have LEDs everywhere except the main front turn signals (lost them somewhere).

bigapple
09-14-2009, 10:15 PM
I got the LM487 from Napa and they charged about $75. They didn't have it in store but they got it there in about 5 hours, good customer service. I have LEDs everywhere except the main front turn signals (lost them somewhere).

Alright because my new relay says LED on the front and has hyperflash, but I do have LEDs in the front and the back. I just wonder if that's why I'm having the problem.

barelybenjamin
09-14-2009, 10:20 PM
Here's a link to Napa's online catalog for your '04 Envoy that describes the LM455 as "w/o LEDs" and the LM487 as "w/ LEDs". I think whoever sold you that LM455 got you good.

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=11&SubCatId=10

bigapple
09-14-2009, 10:44 PM
Here's a link to Napa's online catalog for your '04 Envoy that describes the LM455 as "w/o LEDs" and the LM487 as "w/ LEDs". I think whoever sold you that LM455 got you good.

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=11&SubCatId=10

Thanks for the help man. After doing a bit of research I found the LM487, then I came back here and saw you had the same reply. I'll be taking a trip out tomorrow to a NAPA to get the flasher I need. Thanks a bunch :hail:

barelybenjamin
09-14-2009, 10:50 PM
No problem, man. I'm still having the problems with the tail lights. If you have the same problem after you get the 487, let me know.

bigapple
09-16-2009, 11:16 AM
It is confirmed. The LED flasher relay is the LM487 from either Napa Auto Parts or from LEDlight.com (http://www.ledlight.com/electronic-led-flasher-lm487.aspx).

I just put it in and had a nice drive so I tested out cruise control, which has gotten criticism for not working with this flasher. Functioned fine and the flash is finally normal as well. I believe this flasher is electronic and I was worried about it not clicking with my turn signals but it still clicks a relay, which is good.

If you have LED signals and don't want to get a million load resistors, this is the easiest fix.

Benjamin, I haven't ridden with the relay at night yet but I will let you know if I have any issues.

barelybenjamin
09-16-2009, 07:16 PM
It is confirmed. The LED flasher relay is the LM487 from either Napa Auto Parts or from LEDlight.com (http://www.ledlight.com/electronic-led-flasher-lm487.aspx).

I just put it in and had a nice drive so I tested out cruise control, which has gotten criticism for not working with this flasher. Functioned fine and the flash is finally normal as well. I believe this flasher is electronic and I was worried about it not clicking with my turn signals but it still clicks a relay, which is good.

If you have LED signals and don't want to get a million load resistors, this is the easiest fix.

Benjamin, I haven't ridden with the relay at night yet but I will let you know if I have any issues.

So what's happening is my RR park (#17) and LR park (#14) fuses are blowing when my lights turn on, disabling the parking lights. Tried with and without resistors. Are you having the same prob?

For now I'm just going to put my old filament bulbs back into the park/brake sockets so I don't get pulled over for no parking lights or license lights.

bigapple
09-16-2009, 10:34 PM
So what's happening is my RR park (#17) and LR park (#14) fuses are blowing when my lights turn on, disabling the parking lights. Tried with and without resistors. Are you having the same prob?

For now I'm just going to put my old filament bulbs back into the park/brake sockets so I don't get pulled over for no parking lights or license lights.

Well I didn't realize the orientation of polarity with the new LED wedge bulbs when I put them in. I managed to blow all 3 fuses, which include BRAKE (#34) RR park and LR park. I didn't realize that in doing this, the fuses that control the license plate lights would also be blown since they are in the same circuit as those park lights. Then after getting the orientation of the bulbs correct, I was able to only get the brake lights to work but I had quad brake lights too and this was ridiculously confusing.

I opened up and realized when the park lights came on I had a ground directly connected to positive, which is the reason fuses are there, to prevent overload of a circuit and a potential fire. I am going to solder up my own connections in the circuit board and post pictures up soon. Maybe it'll shed some light on your problem.

bigapple
09-17-2009, 03:44 PM
So what's happening is my RR park (#17) and LR park (#14) fuses are blowing when my lights turn on, disabling the parking lights. Tried with and without resistors. Are you having the same prob?

For now I'm just going to put my old filament bulbs back into the park/brake sockets so I don't get pulled over for no parking lights or license lights.

Well I'm using my original OEM wedge bulbs right now but it's only because I didn't realize the polarity of the LED bulb when I installed it, which is why I managed to blow out every fuse and almost rip my hair out.

I am soon going to show a tutorial thread and show how I'm going to orient the polarity. It should be interesting.

Hal
09-19-2009, 11:41 AM
Well I'm using my original OEM wedge bulbs right now but it's only because I didn't realize the polarity of the LED bulb when I installed it, which is why I managed to blow out every fuse and almost rip my hair out.

I am soon going to show a tutorial thread and show how I'm going to orient the polarity. It should be interesting.
I have a SLT also. I have 4 RED, 4 AMBER 27 SMD #3157 bulbs and 2 AMBER #194 bulbs on the way to replace all of my running, brake, and turn/flasher bulbs.
Polarity issues aside does the LM487 work as advertised in all modes without modifications?:thx

bigapple
09-19-2009, 01:55 PM
I have a SLT also. I have 4 RED, 4 AMBER 27 SMD #3157 bulbs and 2 AMBER #194 bulbs on the way to replace all of my running, brake, and turn/flasher bulbs.
Polarity issues aside does the LM487 work as advertised in all modes without modifications?:thx

Surely works for me. I read about it in a Trailblazer SS forum and some were having issues with cruise control not working since the relay runs on lower current.

I haven't had any issues at all with it though. All of the polarity issues I had were from the type of LED bulb I bought, not the relay itself. Everything still works great and its got a normal flash. It's a direct plug-in. Just read the beginning of this thread to see how to remove the relay, then get the new LM487 and pop that baby in.

MAY03LT
09-19-2009, 03:12 PM
Would you have to convert every turn bulb to LED?

bigapple
09-19-2009, 09:23 PM
Would you have to convert every turn bulb to LED?

No not every bulb. It might even work with incandescent bulbs. I know a mixture is fine because I'm pretty sure it's electronic, so it doesn't rely on the load of the bulbs.

MAY03LT
09-19-2009, 10:00 PM
Cool man, I've been hesitant to do it because DE is strict on lights (like flashing fast), thanks for the info and the how to:hail:

bigapple
09-19-2009, 10:18 PM
No problem. I have the link up there^ if you want to order it online for 20 fewer bucks than from Napa. But, I had never used Napa before this and I was happy with the level of quality and the service I got. I called and they didn't have it in stock but got it there by the next morning. Great service.

Hal
09-19-2009, 10:50 PM
I just ordered a LM487 from:
http://www.ledlight.com/
$49.99 +$7.18 USPS Priority shipping

jstans01
09-23-2009, 03:08 PM
Cool man, I've been hesitant to do it because DE is strict on lights (like flashing fast), thanks for the info and the how to:hail:

I was just looking in to this, not too strict according to the website. They just have to work and be seen from 100ft away.

http://www.dmv.de.gov/services/driver_services/drivers_license/dr_lic_equipment.shtml

I just ordered a LM487 from:
http://www.ledlight.com/
$49.99 +$7.18 USPS Priority shipping

How did they work out? Easy to install?

Hal
09-23-2009, 10:17 PM
Received the LM487 this morning. Installed it in place of the original flasher. Installed two Amber 27 SMD LED 3157, and two Amber 5 SMD LED 194 in the Headlamps, two Amber 5 SMD LED 194 in the mirrors, and two Amber 27 SMD LED 3157 in the tails. Flashing speed was normal. All functions worked perfectly.

Here are some pictorial comparisons of the LM487 and the 12450284.

Internal comparison of the two
6791
Internal of the 12450284
6792
Internal of the LM487
6793
What's under the LM487 Sticker
6794
Yes that is a legitimate GM Part Number. It may or may not have been modified. Anyway GMpartsdirect wants more for it than ledlights for the LM487. And it does work correctly with all LEDs.:thumbsup:

:offtopic:I also installed two White 27 SMD LED 3157 bulbs in the cornering lights and two White 27 SMD LED 3157 bulbs in the Backup lights. What a difference in the color and brightness. WOW!:excited:

Hal
09-24-2009, 12:21 AM
Well I'm using my original OEM wedge bulbs right now but it's only because I didn't realize the polarity of the LED bulb when I installed it, which is why I managed to blow out every fuse and almost rip my hair out.

I am soon going to show a tutorial thread and show how I'm going to orient the polarity. It should be interesting.
The 3157's I got are reverse protected and have have no +/- markings on them. They also read open both directions with the diode tester on my DVM. So what I did was to put a light or turn signal on, verify light or flashing, turn off and remove the bulb/s. Turn on the light or turn signal and try the bulb if it didn't light in one direction I would pull it and turn it around, when it would light I would seat it in the socket. I just installed 14 bulbs this way with no problems.:m2:

bigapple
09-24-2009, 03:27 AM
The 3157's I got are reverse protected and have have no +/- markings on them. They also read open both directions with the diode tester on my DVM. So what I did was to put a light or turn signal on, verify light or flashing, turn off and remove the bulb/s. Turn on the light or turn signal and try the bulb if it didn't light in one direction I would pull it and turn it around, when it would light I would seat it in the socket. I just installed 14 bulbs this way with no problems.:m2:

Yea that was before I did the whole soldering deal with my circuit board. Got the problem figured out but thanks for the suggestion.:cool:

And I'm glad the LM487 works for you. I wanted to find one out there as cheap as possible but ended up wasting more money and getting the wrong kind of flasher. I was a bit worried to drop 60+ on a flasher but in the end it was worth it. It's so good to have a regular flash. I can never go back to OEM bulbs. LEDs rule.:thumbsup:

And for anyone else looking; if for some reason LEDlight runs out of stock, I found the flasher here for 55ish bucks. Word.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?addtocart=1&addpartnumber=10383322&singlepart=1&partnumber=10383322

MajesticLT03
10-01-2009, 05:08 PM
Well this may be my next thing to get because I have all my bulbs to LEDS and put load resistors at the front main signals and now one of the connections doesnt hold well...

Also noticed that when my lights are off when I use the right signal the left side blinks dim as well as the back left BRAKE light :weird: and vice versa for the other side... (I have the IPCW Bermuda tails)

but it works normally when the lights are on

funny that I just noticed that issue today :(

bigapple
10-02-2009, 04:08 PM
That's a little strange. This would definitely be the easiest fix.

Also, an update on my flasher; I go to LSU and came to GA this weekend for the game. On the way here, when I needed cruise control the most, it decided not to work, even though it worked when I first got it. I thought about popping out the electric flasher and putting in the OEM one just for the car ride to get that cruise control working. The cruise has worked before but didn't yesterday so I guess it can be a bit faulty with this relay.

Still, I believe that one tiny fault with a normal flash is something I can exchange. I'm sure most of you would agree.

jetttstream
10-02-2009, 11:29 PM
I have to point out a few things.

The flasher is also made by Grote part number 44140 (i'm a dealer).

You can use the flasher to control the front (turn signal) OR rear turn signals.

You cannot use the LED flasher to control (4) corners. I did extensive testing with these led flashers include GM parts too--I'll look up the part numbers and edit the post.

You will lose cruise control ONLY if you switch your BRAKE lights to LEDs AND use the LED flasher module.

example: you have switchbacks in the front....the LED flasher module...and stock halogen bulbs...your cruise will work just fine.

If you replace your brake/parking lights (trailblazer)..you will lose cruise.
----

Lastly, I also figured out that you can use LEDs in all 4 corners of the truck using only (2) Load resistors. I didn't want to cut/splice any wires. But for $9.00 and a quick tap..and run the other wire to body ground, it's been working great for my personal truck, and if you don't know I have 100% LED conversion.

I hope that helps a few guys out.

-Mike

MajesticLT03
10-02-2009, 11:42 PM
I have the IPCW tails and those have built in resistors and flash normally.. its when I put led turns up front is where I had to put resistors in and got it all messed up




how much you sell the relay for?? hopefully not $75 like NAPA wants for it

jetttstream
10-02-2009, 11:47 PM
I have the IPCW tails and those have built in resistors and flash normally.. its when I put led turns up front is where I had to put resistors in and got it all messed up




how much you sell the relay for?? hopefully not $75 like NAPA wants for it

You probably still needed 6-ohm load resistors.

I'm a dealer, but I don't sell them b/c of how expensive they are---people won't pay, and you can do the entire truck with (2) load resistors...i'm not always out to take people's money---I try to help them save it!

MajesticLT03
10-02-2009, 11:49 PM
yeah I have a 6 ohm resistor tied into each main front signal.. but now one of the connections came loose and its fast flashing on me :hissy::hissy:

Hal
10-05-2009, 08:53 AM
I have to point out a few things.

The flasher is also made by Grote part number 44140 (i'm a dealer).

You can use the flasher to control the front (turn signal) OR rear turn signals.

You cannot use the LED flasher to control (4) corners. I did extensive testing with these led flashers include GM parts too--I'll look up the part numbers and edit the post.

You will lose cruise control ONLY if you switch your BRAKE lights to LEDs AND use the LED flasher module.

example: you have switchbacks in the front....the LED flasher module...and stock halogen bulbs...your cruise will work just fine.

If you replace your brake/parking lights (trailblazer)..you will lose cruise.
----

Lastly, I also figured out that you can use LEDs in all 4 corners of the truck using only (2) Load resistors. I didn't want to cut/splice any wires. But for $9.00 and a quick tap..and run the other wire to body ground, it's been working great for my personal truck, and if you don't know I have 100% LED conversion.

I hope that helps a few guys out.

-Mike
I sorta have to disagree with you:no:. At least in the case of my Envoy. I am running four Amber 27 SMD 3157 in the turns, two Amber 5 SMD 194 in the front turns, two Amber 5 SMD 194 in the mirror turns, four 20 Superflux 3157 dual ckt. in the tail/stop that were converted to quad stop, and an LM487 flasher. I have no load resistors, normal flashing speed, bright brakes, And have no problem with my Cruise Control. I am no expert but I would think if there was an issue with the Cruise Control that resistors would be needed in the brake ckt. I did notice on the Stop Lamp schematic the flasher socket pin B has a signal from the stop lamp switch. So who knows:undecided. Certainly not me:bonk:.

jetttstream
10-05-2009, 09:15 AM
I sorta have to disagree with you:no:. At least in the case of my Envoy. I am running four Amber 27 SMD 3157 in the turns, two Amber 5 SMD 194 in the front turns, two Amber 5 SMD 194 in the mirror turns, four 20 Superflux 3157 dual ckt. in the tail/stop that were converted to quad stop, and an LM487 flasher. I have no load resistors, normal flashing speed, bright brakes, And have no problem with my Cruise Control. I am no expert but I would think if there was an issue with the Cruise Control that resistors would be needed in the brake ckt. I did notice on the Stop Lamp schematic the flasher socket pin B has a signal from the stop lamp switch. So who knows:undecided. Certainly not me:bonk:.

You are not running a stock setup.....You have increased the load on the circuit by adding lights, no?

DO NOT use load resistors in the BRAKE circuit....ever. Please anyone reading this DO NOT use load resistors on a brake circuit.

Hal
10-06-2009, 12:33 AM
You are not running a stock setup.....You have increased the load on the circuit by adding lights, no?

DO NOT use load resistors in the BRAKE circuit....ever. Please anyone reading this DO NOT use load resistors on a brake circuit.

My turns and flashers are stock no wiring changes. My '03 Helms shows that the Envoy rear lamp assembly had one 3156 for turn and two 3157's for tails and brakes on each side. I assume that the recall for the socket assemblies changed the setup to two 3157's for tails and only the bottom being used for brakes. All I did was wire the one socket in each assembly back to original configuration. They are using dual ckt 3157 LED's at 5W each. The only thing not stock about my setup is the LEDs and LM487 flasher.
I guess if you did your testing on an Envoy with only the bottom lamp as a brake that might cause the Cruise Control to not work?

jetttstream
10-06-2009, 06:30 AM
My turns and flashers are stock no wiring changes. My '03 Helms shows that the Envoy rear lamp assembly had one 3156 for turn and two 3157's for tails and brakes on each side. I assume that the recall for the socket assemblies changed the setup to two 3157's for tails and only the bottom being used for brakes. All I did was wire the one socket in each assembly back to original configuration. They are using dual ckt 3157 LED's at 5W each. The only thing not stock about my setup is the LEDs and LM487 flasher.
I guess if you did your testing on an Envoy with only the bottom lamp as a brake that might cause the Cruise Control to not work?

Regardless, I'm here to try to help, so I have nothing else to add.

Can anyone else with an Envoy confirm the need for only the electronic flasher?

Hal
10-06-2009, 10:42 AM
Regardless, I'm here to try to help, so I have nothing else to add.

Can anyone else with an Envoy confirm the need for only the electronic flasher?
Hope I didn't offend. I'm just trying to figure out if the reason I can run all LEDs in the turns and tails with the LM487 and no load resistors is related to the Envoy, the year, the Quad brakes, my particular combo of LEDs, something peculiar with my LM487, or will the Cruise Control possibly end up being intermittent?:confused:

bigapple
10-07-2009, 04:39 AM
Hope I didn't offend. I'm just trying to figure out if the reason I can run all LEDs in the turns and tails with the LM487 and no load resistors is related to the Envoy, the year, the Quad brakes, my particular combo of LEDs, something peculiar with my LM487, or will the Cruise Control possibly end up being intermittent?:confused:

I wonder why exactly that happens too. It only occurs (randomly) after you install LED wedge bulbs in the stop bulbs. It seems like it would only possibly mess up after the turn bulbs are converted to LED. Still trying to figure this one out. Any ideas anyone?

Hal
10-07-2009, 10:06 AM
I wonder why exactly that happens too. It only occurs (randomly) after you install LED wedge bulbs in the stop bulbs. It seems like it would only possibly mess up after the turn bulbs are converted to LED. Still trying to figure this one out. Any ideas anyone?
I don't know? According to the Ledlight catalog the 20 Superflux dual ckt 3157's I am using are 360 mA @ 13.8 V or 5 W. Maybe the 1.44 A from the four lamps plus the Center High Stop lamp is enought to satisfy the LM487 and/or the PCM so that the Cruise Control will work. I can read the schematics but have no idea what is going on in the LM487 or PCM. I don't normally use the cruise alot. But since I made the conversion and the issue of Cruise Control came up I have been using it everytime I go to my shop which is about 10 miles interstate each way. It has worked everytime so far (knock on wood:bonk:):laugh:.

bigapple
10-07-2009, 05:43 PM
I don't know? According to the Ledlight catalog the 20 Superflux dual ckt 3157's I am using are 360 mA @ 13.8 V or 5 W. Maybe the 1.44 A from the four lamps plus the Center High Stop lamp is enought to satisfy the LM487 and/or the PCM so that the Cruise Control will work. I can read the schematics but have no idea what is going on in the LM487 or PCM. I don't normally use the cruise alot. But since I made the conversion and the issue of Cruise Control came up I have been using it everytime I go to my shop which is about 10 miles interstate each way. It has worked everytime so far (knock on wood:bonk:):laugh:.

You might want to go ahead and put a piece of wood in your car to knock on because mine worked for a while and crapped out randomly. I'm thinking of experimenting a little bit and replacing the electronic flasher with the stock one to see if that brings cruise back. A little trial and error is on the way.

bigapple
01-18-2010, 03:23 AM
I have some new news about the cruise control issue.

I hadn't tried using my cruise in a while but after I had installed my remote starter with an INT-SL module, it started working again. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the module interfacing with the car or just total coincidence but the cruise works now and has worked for weeks.

The whole cruise control thing continues to baffle me, but at least for now, it is operational.

Hal
01-20-2010, 11:11 AM
I have some new news about the cruise control issue.

I hadn't tried using my cruise in a while but after I had installed my remote starter with an INT-SL module, it started working again. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the module interfacing with the car or just total coincidence but the cruise works now and has worked for weeks.

The whole cruise control thing continues to baffle me, but at least for now, it is operational.

I wander if that could be the reason I never lost the the operation of my cruise control? I have had an after market DEI Avital alarm and remote start on my truck for some time now.

bigapple
01-20-2010, 04:39 PM
I wander if that could be the reason I never lost the the operation of my cruise control? I have had an after market DEI Avital alarm and remote start on my truck for some time now.

Haha, who knows. I'm still trying to figure it out. But hey as long as it's working I'm cool with it.

fat azian
01-25-2010, 10:45 PM
After reading this WHOLE thread I am now debating on converting all bulbs to LED and getting the LM 487 and possibly running into more issues with my cruise control. Does anyone know for sure on the Trailblazer? I do not want to risk loosing my Cruise control, especially if I spend all this money on LED Bulbs.

bigapple
01-26-2010, 07:03 PM
After reading this WHOLE thread I am now debating on converting all bulbs to LED and getting the LM 487 and possibly running into more issues with my cruise control. Does anyone know for sure on the Trailblazer? I do not want to risk loosing my Cruise control, especially if I spend all this money on LED Bulbs.

As stated before, it seems to be a pretty unpredictable thing. Mine works all the time now but I did go through a period where it wouldn't activate. I don't know if anyone can guarantee anything.

fat azian
01-26-2010, 11:51 PM
As stated before, it seems to be a pretty unpredictable thing. Mine works all the time now but I did go through a period where it wouldn't activate. I don't know if anyone can guarantee anything.

Yeah i dont have remote start on the truck so I dont know if I want to change all the bulbs.
i love my cruise control.

bigapple
01-27-2010, 01:16 PM
Yeah i dont have remote start on the truck so I dont know if I want to change all the bulbs.
i love my cruise control.

Well see I'm not sure whether or not that was the reason it started working again. It worked before that, then stopped working, then began working again. It's just a whole up and down process I guess. It's pretty confusing.

solver7
02-08-2010, 03:23 AM
Thank You!
I'm studying up to do some led upgrades.
This is great.

samherston07
02-09-2010, 02:17 PM
I have a 2007 Trailblazer and I have all LEDS for it... I have them currently in the stop lights, the SMALL 194 corner turns, backups,licenseplate, all interior... The stop lights have the little resistor built into it as well as the ones for the front and rear turns.. I installed them and got the hyper flash even though they have a built in resistor... IF I was to get the LM 487 flasher, will that fix the problem and my Cruise still work too??

fat azian
03-11-2010, 01:21 AM
I have a 2007 Trailblazer and I have all LEDS for it... I have them currently in the stop lights, the SMALL 194 corner turns, backups,licenseplate, all interior... The stop lights have the little resistor built into it as well as the ones for the front and rear turns.. I installed them and got the hyper flash even though they have a built in resistor... IF I was to get the LM 487 flasher, will that fix the problem and my Cruise still work too??

Honestly bro, order the resistors for the rear turn signals from jetttstream.com and call it done. Tie them into the rear turnsignals ground and trigger wire into the harness and you will be good. BE sure you ordered the right taillight(rear) and front turn signal bulbs for the truck. The traditional 3157 LED bulb off any website will not cut it. I ordered the rear bulb from jetttstream and mike helped me understand the whole process. And I still have my factory turn signal flasher in the truck. PM me if you have anymore questions.

bigapple
03-12-2010, 01:05 AM
I have a 2007 Trailblazer and I have all LEDS for it... I have them currently in the stop lights, the SMALL 194 corner turns, backups,licenseplate, all interior... The stop lights have the little resistor built into it as well as the ones for the front and rear turns.. I installed them and got the hyper flash even though they have a built in resistor... IF I was to get the LM 487 flasher, will that fix the problem and my Cruise still work too??

The resistor built into the LED bulb itself is to keep the LED from burning out. LEDs have to run at a certain current. If they get a full 12V without any resistance at all, they immediately overcharge and burn out.

The large resistors to prevent hyperflash limits the power in the total circuit itself. LEDs can run on very little power, so if you limit a lot of power to get it to stop hyperflashing, the LEDs will continue to work just fine.

doorman
03-22-2010, 09:33 PM
I have a 2007 Trailblazer and I have all LEDS for it... I have them currently in the stop lights, the SMALL 194 corner turns, backups,licenseplate, all interior... The stop lights have the little resistor built into it as well as the ones for the front and rear turns.. I installed them and got the hyper flash even though they have a built in resistor... IF I was to get the LM 487 flasher, will that fix the problem and my Cruise still work too??

I've got an 07 LT as well, and have done some tracing of the wiring and testing different setups. I have found the only setup that works for me with all the leds in the rear, and mirror blinker, is while using the original flasher relay. I am using Jetttstream's 60 SMDs for the tail and turns, and the Afterburners for the backup lights. I also found the extremely dim CHMSL leds are no longer dim with the original flasher. Before, with the LM 487, my CHMSL was very dimly lit (can't remeber if it was all the time); I didn't even notice it until it was dark, and the parking lamps were on. It would seem, depending on model and year, that there is some feedback going to the transmission module, and disabling the cruise. It also seemed to take a few miles of driving, and changing the transmission gear, to clear the condition in the module, allowing the cruise to work again. Just zipping up the road a short bit didn't reset it.
I will continue testing to see if there is a way to use the LM 487, and not the load resistors on the turn circuit. I'd prefer to have everything plug-n-play, and not have to splice anything. I'll post again when I've found something useful.:undecided

bigapple
03-23-2010, 01:51 AM
I've got an 07 LT as well, and have done some tracing of the wiring and testing different setups. I have found the only setup that works for me with all the leds in the rear, and mirror blinker, is while using the original flasher relay. I am using Jetttstream's 60 SMDs for the tail and turns, and the Afterburners for the backup lights. I also found the extremely dim CHMSL leds are no longer dim with the original flasher. Before, with the LM 487, my CHMSL was very dimly lit (can't remeber if it was all the time); I didn't even notice it until it was dark, and the parking lamps were on. It would seem, depending on model and year, that there is some feedback going to the transmission module, and disabling the cruise. It also seemed to take a few miles of driving, and changing the transmission gear, to clear the condition in the module, allowing the cruise to work again. Just zipping up the road a short bit didn't reset it.
I will continue testing to see if there is a way to use the LM 487, and not the load resistors on the turn circuit. I'd prefer to have everything plug-n-play, and not have to splice anything. I'll post again when I've found something useful.:undecided

I agree. Its faultiness seemed to last a couple of months for me. After it remained in use for a while though, it began allowing the cruise control to activate and still works to this day. Although I will say it's strange that your LEDs lit dimly. I never had an issue with them lighting dimly or anything. My flash and the LEDs themselves have always functioned properly. It could be that yours is newer and has different electronics or something. This is quite a confusing dilemma.

Good luck in your testing. :thumbsup:

Hal
03-23-2010, 07:18 PM
I agree. Its faultiness seemed to last a couple of months for me. After it remained in use for a while though, it began allowing the cruise control to activate and still works to this day. Although I will say it's strange that your LEDs lit dimly. I never had an issue with them lighting dimly or anything. My flash and the LEDs themselves have always functioned properly. It could be that yours is newer and has different electronics or something. This is quite a confusing dilemma.

Good luck in your testing. :thumbsup:

:iagree:
I never had a problem at all with my setup using the LM 487 with all LEDs including quad dual circuit 3157 taillights and no load resistors.
That said, I would install the resistors:m2:. It's a reliable and safe (when done properly) fix. I had the resistors and would have installed them on the front turns if I would have had problems. The Pros of LEDs far out weigh the Cons of resistors:m2:.

doorman
03-25-2010, 12:01 AM
I FINALLY GOT IT FIGURED OUT!! LM 487 and 400 ohm resistor:woot:

The 5vdc(lights out) and the 7vdc(lights on) on the brake circuit is not LED related feedback, it's from the monitoring circuit for the cruise disable input. The LM 487 was not designed for single brake light assemblies, but for the full size trucks, with the quad brake lights. This is probably why most of you with quad brakes have less problems with the cruise and the LM 487. I have soldered a 400 ohm, 1/2 watt (it's 1/8"W x 5/16" L) resistor on the LM 487 between the brake terminal(B) and the ground(E). This dissipates the small amount of voltage from the cruise cutout circuit, and allows the cruise control to work, for those of us who don't have quad brakes. It also still disengages the cruise control when the brakes are applied. No need for load resistors on the signal lights, and I still have full brake output, in case anyone was concerned about that.

This post should take of all the questions previous in this thread. Glad to help.:woohoo:

_________
Belltech 2/3; SP shocks/struts; Susp Maxx end links; LEDs: rr turn & mirror, brake, license, reverse; LED relay mod

bigapple
03-25-2010, 10:50 AM
I FINALLY GOT IT FIGURED OUT!! LM 487 and 400 ohm resistor:woot:

The 5vdc(lights out) and the 7vdc(lights on) on the brake circuit is not LED related feedback, it's from the monitoring circuit for the cruise disable input. The LM 487 was not designed for single brake light assemblies, but for the full size trucks, with the quad brake lights. This is probably why most of you with quad brakes have less problems with the cruise and the LM 487. I have soldered a 400 ohm, 1/2 watt (or maybe 1/4 watt; it's 1/8"W x 5/16" L) resistor on the LM 487 between the brake terminal(B) and the ground(E). This dissipates the small amount of voltage from the cruise cutout circuit, and allows the cruise control to work, for those of us who don't have quad brakes. It also still disengages the cruise control when the brakes are applied. No need for load resistors on the signal lights, and I still have full brake output, in case anyone was concerned about that.

This post should take of all the questions previous in this thread. Glad to help.:woohoo:

_________
Belltech 2/3; SP shocks/struts; Susp Maxx end links; LEDs: rr turn & mirror, brake, license, reverse; LED relay mod

Wow, excellent research man. I would have never been able to figure it out or thought of where to begin testing.

Much appreciation for your hard work and research :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

georgeplo
04-15-2010, 09:02 PM
Long story, Re-wire to put in Quad REd LED Brake light and 2 LED Amber Turn Signal, Hyper flashing on Turn signal. Find and read this thread. Put in part# LM487 from NAPA, everything work fine except my remote car starter.

Take a while to figure out.

Thanks to doorman post on page 6 of this thread. Find out the LM487 have 4v on the brake line ( terminal B ) on the new Flasher relay. THat why my Remote start won't work, because it sense the Brake is on. (That will make the Cruise control not working as well ).

Take apart my old GM OEM Flasher, part# 12450284. Find out they use U643B Flasher IC. Download spec for the IC. Figure out how the chip works.

Do some math, here what I have to do, If you have a solder iron:
(Pictures of the module on Page 3 of this thread)

- If only replacing rear TURN SIGNAL to LED
Replace the Metal strip on the old Flasher module to .10 ohm 5W resistor.
Be careful make sure the legs from the Resistor not touching any other metal parts in the module.
DO NOT JUST CUT THE STRIP, have to remove it out the the board.

- If you are replacing ALL TURN SIGNAL to LED
Replace the Metal strip on the old Flasher Module to .15 ohm 5W resistor.
Be careful make sure the legs from the Resistor not touching any other metal parts in the module.
DO NOT JUST CUT THE STRIP, have to remove it out the the board.

Right now, I'm using the old module with the .10 ohm 5W resistor, everything works. Turn signal flash normal. Remote starter works, Cruise control works.

I will post again if there are any new problem show up.

:):):)

Another BlackSS
06-05-2010, 05:50 AM
You are not running a stock setup.....You have increased the load on the circuit by adding lights, no?

DO NOT use load resistors in the BRAKE circuit....ever. Please anyone reading this DO NOT use load resistors on a brake circuit.

just curious, why would you NEVER use load resistors on the brake circuit. I have done this on my 2004 Colorado with LED brake bulbs. It made my CC work properly. Load resistors do get a little hot as times so I had to mount them to my frame. If your using LEDs in every location you just need (4) 6 ohm load resistors, two for each side. One connected to the T/S circuit and the other connected to your brake circuit, no? Thats what I did on my Colorado. So my question is why not to use load resistors in the brake light circuit??

jetttstream
06-05-2010, 08:47 AM
just curious, why would you NEVER use load resistors on the brake circuit. I have done this on my 2004 Colorado with LED brake bulbs. It made my CC work properly. Load resistors do get a little hot as times so I had to mount them to my frame. If your using LEDs in every location you just need (4) 6 ohm load resistors, two for each side. One connected to the T/S circuit and the other connected to your brake circuit, no? Thats what I did on my Colorado. So my question is why not to use load resistors in the brake light circuit??

Why would you put load resistors on the brake circuit when you can put LEDs in 100% of the truck (I am currently running ALL leds) and use the STOCK flasher and only need TWO load resistors TOTAL.

so you are running four?

So my question is why are you running four, when you can do the entire truck in 2?

Edit: my above comments pertain for the GMT360.

I am not familiar with colorado. Were you running stock flasher relay/module?

Load resistors do NOT belong on brake circuits.

bigapple
06-05-2010, 05:58 PM
just curious, why would you NEVER use load resistors on the brake circuit. I have done this on my 2004 Colorado with LED brake bulbs. It made my CC work properly. Load resistors do get a little hot as times so I had to mount them to my frame. If your using LEDs in every location you just need (4) 6 ohm load resistors, two for each side. One connected to the T/S circuit and the other connected to your brake circuit, no? Thats what I did on my Colorado. So my question is why not to use load resistors in the brake light circuit??

Because load resistors can be a pain to mount, must tap into stock wires, and drain a lot of unnecessary power. LEDs are very energy efficient and I like not having to worry if I were to leave something on when I walk away from the car. Load resistors act as standard bulbs do and can drain your battery just as quickly. Also, using an electronic flasher can also be an easy way to return to stock. I simply put the stock flasher back in and put regular bulbs back in. I don't have to rip out any wires or load resistors.

Another BlackSS
06-05-2010, 11:37 PM
On my GMT355 I needed load resistors on the brake light circuit and load resistors on the T/S circuit. Stock flasher and LEDs 100%. I needed the resistors on the brake circuit so my cruise control would work. Im confused what I need to do for the SS. :confused:

Do I just replaced the flasher module and everything still works?

or

Do I use load resistors, keeping the stock flasher, and everything works ok?

If I do use load resistors how should they be hooked up?

I'll be running LEDs 100% by next week. I dont mind using load resistors at all, but if I can just pop the flasher in and everything still works then awesome.

georgeplo
06-12-2010, 01:51 AM
On my GMT355 I needed load resistors on the brake light circuit and load resistors on the T/S circuit. Stock flasher and LEDs 100%. I needed the resistors on the brake circuit so my cruise control would work. Im confused what I need to do for the SS. :confused:

Do I just replaced the flasher module and everything still works?

or

Do I use load resistors, keeping the stock flasher, and everything works ok?

If I do use load resistors how should they be hooked up?

I'll be running LEDs 100% by next week. I dont mind using load resistors at all, but if I can just pop the flasher in and everything still works then awesome.

If you are good with a solder iron, you can read my Post (Georgeplo) on Page 6. Or you can buy the LM487 (GM#10383322) and you have to read DOORMAN Post on Page 6 and have to use 1 small resistor instead of Load Resistor. So far my old module still working, and everything still works in my Envoy.

Hope this help.

Another BlackSS
06-26-2010, 03:30 AM
.15 Ohm 5 w resistor for running all LEDs? is that the same as 15 Ohm 5 w resistor? does the resistance matter to stop hyper flash when I hit the brakes? Thats my problem.

ChevyTb2003
06-26-2010, 03:25 PM
where the heck would i find a 5w .15ohm resistor?

ChevyTb2003
06-26-2010, 03:37 PM
and what it would look like would help alot. thankyou!!

jimmyjam
06-26-2010, 03:56 PM
hope you're not dropping 14v across a .15ohm resistor, you'll need to upgrade your battery

Another BlackSS
06-27-2010, 12:41 AM
Long story, Re-wire to put in Quad REd LED Brake light and 2 LED Amber Turn Signal, Hyper flashing on Turn signal. Find and read this thread. Put in part# LM487 from NAPA, everything work fine except my remote car starter.

Take a while to figure out.

Thanks to doorman post on page 6 of this thread. Find out the LM487 have 4v on the brake line ( terminal B ) on the new Flasher relay. THat why my Remote start won't work, because it sense the Brake is on. (That will make the Cruise control not working as well ).

Take apart my old GM OEM Flasher, part# 12450284. Find out they use U643B Flasher IC. Download spec for the IC. Figure out how the chip works.

Do some math, here what I have to do, If you have a solder iron:
(Pictures of the module on Page 3 of this thread)

- If only replacing rear TURN SIGNAL to LED
Replace the Metal strip on the old Flasher module to .10 ohm 5W resistor.
Be careful make sure the legs from the Resistor not touching any other metal parts in the module.
DO NOT JUST CUT THE STRIP, have to remove it out the the board.

- If you are replacing ALL TURN SIGNAL to LED
Replace the Metal strip on the old Flasher Module to .15 ohm 5W resistor.
Be careful make sure the legs from the Resistor not touching any other metal parts in the module.
DO NOT JUST CUT THE STRIP, have to remove it out the the board.

Right now, I'm using the old module with the .10 ohm 5W resistor, everything works. Turn signal flash normal. Remote starter works, Cruise control works.

I will post again if there are any new problem show up.

:):):)


I was told I needed a .15 Ohm 5W resistor to stop my hyper flashing when I have my T/S on and brakes applied with 100% LEDs. I cannot find a .15 ohm 5W resistor just a 15 Ohm 5w

ChevyTb2003
06-27-2010, 02:48 AM
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/892

thats a .22ohm 5watt resistor i also found 1 at this cool site they also have cool infrared led's im not sure if its suppose to look like a little round resistor or a square one.

http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/WW544PD/5W+0.15+ohm+.15+ohm+Power+Wirewound+Resistor+Dale+ LVR-5.html

not sure which to get??.. any ideas?

georgeplo
06-27-2010, 09:08 PM
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/892

thats a .22ohm 5watt resistor i also found 1 at this cool site they also have cool infrared led's im not sure if its suppose to look like a little round resistor or a square one.

http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/WW544PD/5W+0.15+ohm+.15+ohm+Power+Wirewound+Resistor+Dale+ LVR-5.html

not sure which to get??.. any ideas?


You can get the resistor from www.newark.com

http://www.newark.com/irc-tt-electronics/caw5r150jlf/resistor-wirewound-0-15ohm-5w-5/dp/40M8196?Ntt=40m8196

http://www.newark.com/ohmite/45fr15e/resistor-wirewound-0-15ohm-5w-1/dp/64K9065?Ntt=64k9065

Both will do the same. Hope this help.

ChevyTb2003
06-28-2010, 09:28 AM
one of them has to be bought in bulk. lol 678 dollars ill just buy the led flasher relay it self. There has to be a local place that sells these stupid things.

Another BlackSS
06-30-2010, 10:14 AM
Bulk? I dont see where you have to order bulk amounts.....anyway I just ordered from newark. thanks for the site. I just dont understand why I have hyper flashing with regular bulbs in right now. Will this resistor install work for me?

georgeplo
07-01-2010, 10:41 PM
Bulk? I dont see where you have to order bulk amounts.....anyway I just ordered from newark. thanks for the site. I just dont understand why I have hyper flashing with regular bulbs in right now. Will this resistor install work for me?

First, I own a Envoy XL, so it may or may not work with other GM or Chev. If your module Part# is the same as on Page 3, it is design to work the same.

Which Flasher unit do you have right now? If you have the orginal flasher and all regular bulb, you do not have to change. The flasher is design to hyper flash when 1 of the regular bulb is burnt out. So check all Turn signal bulb, and Stop light bulb, 1 of the bulb have to be out. The .15 ohm resistor is for changing all bulb to LED on the orginal Flasher Module.

I still using the orginal Module with the change to 0.15 Ohm resistor and All LED on all Turn and Stop light. Everything still works.

Ralph623
10-27-2010, 12:02 AM
RadioShack has .47-ohm 5w resistor...
....will that work for the led-fix on this GM flasher...???

(i see .15 ohm and .22 ohm mentioned herein...)

georgeplo
11-07-2010, 02:11 AM
RadioShack has .47-ohm 5w resistor...
....will that work for the led-fix on this GM flasher...???

(i see .15 ohm and .22 ohm mentioned herein...)


Which Flasher Module do you have? Read Page 7 on this Post. You can use 2 of them in Parallel that will give you .235-ohm. That close enough. Except it may not have enough room inside the casing for 2. Don't try to use one .47-ohm, it will get real hot.

DJones
11-07-2010, 11:01 AM
Using the equations E=IR and P=EI, we find that 12 volts divided by .47 ohm is approximately 24 Amps. 24 amps multiplied by 12 volts is 288 watts of power. The typical bright filament uses 27W, so work backwards from there and be sure that the resistor is the correct power rating, otherwise, if it overheats, it could destroy itself. (of course, it is never actually 12V)

joemoto311
01-05-2011, 02:09 PM
So did we ever come to a final solution and the way to go...I'm going with quad brake lights and all LED (to include my mirrors).......i'm doing my retrofit with the tsx projectors in headlights and i already have all HIDs....LEDs last to do with that part

jigubhai2001
01-17-2011, 05:45 PM
Using the equations E=IR and P=EI, we find that 12 volts divided by .47 ohm is approximately 24 Amps. 24 amps multiplied by 12 volts is 288 watts of power. The typical bright filament uses 27W, so work backwards from there and be sure that the resistor is the correct power rating, otherwise, if it overheats, it could destroy itself. (of course, it is never actually 12V)

Your calculations are correct, but only if you are adding a resistor in parallel with the LED bulb at you tail light. There are two ways to overcome the hyper flash condition when converting to LED bulbs.

The flasher module actually measures current draw on the Turn signal circuit. In case one of the bulbs burns out the current draw is reduced and hence the Flasher module starts to hyper flash. The same problem is seen with LED bulbs as they draw very little current. So most times people add a load resistor in parallel with the bulb to simulate the current draw of a bulb.

The other method is to actually modify the flasher itself to make it think that it has higher current draw. The 0.15 ohm 5W resistor is used to replace the existing shunt resistor inside the flasher module. The way this works is for example you have 2 amps flowing through the circuit, when you measure the voltage drop across the 0.15 ohms you will measure 2 X 0.15 = 0.3 volts. The Flasher IC is looking for a specific voltage drop across the shunt resistor to flash at certain intervals.

In either case you are actually tricking the flasher to think that it has the correct amount of current draw and so it flashes at a slower rate. However in either case if there is a blown LED bulb you would notice the typical hyper flash that is noticed when using a regular bulb.

mell860930
02-17-2011, 11:23 PM
I have upgraded a majority of my rear lights to led's but i now keep blowing the stop fuse (#34 in the veh). I have rear turns and rear brake led's and license plate leds. Do i need the napa part to make this all work or is there something else like with the resistors?

Ricky81
02-18-2011, 09:12 PM
I have upgraded a majority of my rear lights to led's but i now keep blowing the stop fuse (#34 in the veh). I have rear turns and rear brake led's and license plate leds. Do i need the napa part to make this all work or is there something else like with the resistors?

Vleds sells 3ohm resistors that will work with up to 4 leds..either install in the front or back....gonna be going with led's once I get my ascender tails.....

mell860930
02-18-2011, 10:50 PM
I bought some of the resistors but i was hoping for like a fix for all since i plan on upgrading all of the lights to leds. Thats why i wasn't sure if the other part from napa would work for everything. Resistors will be a real mess if i have to do that for every bulb set and what not.

Colonel Sanders
07-01-2011, 04:39 PM
I just ordered a set of switchbacks from autolumination.com. I found the LED flasher relay on Rockauto.com for $32, so I figured I'd give that a shot. Guess we'll see if all these play well together http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc260/blckshdw/BlogPics/wish.gif

This flasher relay work?

Colonel Sanders
07-01-2011, 05:24 PM
Thanks for the quick reply, i deffinately like the switchbacks you have put in, my total comes to 130 for LEDS all the way around which isnt too bad!

Kuchar09
08-18-2011, 10:39 PM
Ok guys I have a question... I put the relay flasher in to fix my hyper flash and lost my cruise and remote start because it thinks my brakes are on.
Well I finally got my relays to do the quad brake and turn signals and sure enough my remote start now works! But my cruise still does not work. :mad: I am going to check fuses tomorrow just to make sure all is good but Is basically the only thing I can do to fix this is
A. Open up the flasher relay like said somewhere in this thread and put a 400 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor connecting 2 pins. Read post 55
OR
B. Put in load resistors which is basically pointless since I already have the flasher relay.

I only have LEDs in the back currently if that has anything to do with it.

Kuchar09
08-18-2011, 11:01 PM
As I understand it, those are your only 2 options to get cruise control back. Your fuses should be fine, unless something else isn't working too.

Ok thanks, I kinda doubted the fuse part but i though it was worth a shot. Kinda weird how the quad brakes made my remote start work again but not cruise tho. :weird:

Kuchar09
08-24-2011, 02:40 AM
Ok thanks, I kinda doubted the fuse part but i though it was worth a shot. Kinda weird how the quad brakes made my remote start work again but not cruise tho. :weird:
I have done nothing but for the past 3 days my cruise has been working. :crazy:

val740
09-03-2011, 02:00 PM
I have a 08 trailblazer,L6,module looks the same except the number is different,
15231201. nice pics.I'm going to have to replace mine, having the same issues with my trailer, rt signal and brake light don't work. thanks to other post and authors{the roadie,rrbrosse and others):tiphat

schmidbauermg
10-17-2011, 01:44 PM
I FINALLY GOT IT FIGURED OUT!! LM 487 and 400 ohm resistor:woot:

The 5vdc(lights out) and the 7vdc(lights on) on the brake circuit is not LED related feedback, it's from the monitoring circuit for the cruise disable input. The LM 487 was not designed for single brake light assemblies, but for the full size trucks, with the quad brake lights. This is probably why most of you with quad brakes have less problems with the cruise and the LM 487. I have soldered a 400 ohm, 1/2 watt (it's 1/8"W x 5/16" L) resistor on the LM 487 between the brake terminal(B) and the ground(E). This dissipates the small amount of voltage from the cruise cutout circuit, and allows the cruise control to work, for those of us who don't have quad brakes. It also still disengages the cruise control when the brakes are applied. No need for load resistors on the signal lights, and I still have full brake output, in case anyone was concerned about that.

This post should take of all the questions previous in this thread. Glad to help.:woohoo:



Has anyone else tried this? I cannot find that resistor. There is a 330 and 470 ohm both 1/2 watt here locally. Would one of those work or are they too big/small? If so, which one would work, or both? Also, how did you solder it in? Any pics? Appreciate the help.

nelfort
04-20-2012, 10:43 PM
Awesome thread with all the info.....for the 2 or 3 of you that seem to have this down packed is it possible for you to make a list of all LEDS BULBS and RELAYs that are required to swith over all exterior stock lighting to LEDS?


Much appreciated:thumbsup:

s6david
07-22-2012, 02:31 AM
So I bought a set of led lights for the front signal and tried it on my 02 TB that I just purchased. It caused the signal to blink really fast so I put the original ones back on. I'm not 100% sure but I thought these running lights were on whenever I have the engine running. My signal still works but they're not consistently on anymore. Are they supposed to? I check the fuse box in Can anyone tell me that he's running lights are supposed to be on always?

s6david
07-22-2012, 02:43 AM
By the way, I found these LM487 flasher on amazon for 36 bucks

djez015
11-13-2012, 09:34 PM
Has anyone had a problem with there front parking lights not coming on ????? they come on with the turn signal but do not stay on , I have noticed a blown fuse from them but when i replace it the fuse just blows again

gdot101
12-06-2012, 12:05 AM
hey question does anyone have tinted tail lights with there LED and if so whats a good LED count to get the same amount of light that we prior had without tint

Pj61
11-23-2014, 08:53 PM
It is confirmed. The LED flasher relay is the LM487 from either Napa Auto Parts or from LEDlight.com

I have been doing some research about this also and this is what I have found out. I believe you are using the wrong flasher. The LM486 should be the correct one not the 487. Big Apple how did you confirm this?

I went to 2002-2009 Chevrolet Trailblazer LED Turn Signal Flasherdiodedynamics.com and searched for bulbs by vehicle. Scroll to the bottom of the page and they list only one flasher manufactured by Novita. Going to their site and comparing the 486 with the 487.
LM486
•12 Volt applications
•LED compatible
•10 Terminals
•2 Turn / 4 Hazard + Accessories
•162 Watt max

Cruise control compatible


LM487
•12 Volt applications
•LED compatible
•10 Terminals
•5 Turn / 10 Hazard + Accessories
•300 Watt max


The only other difference that I see is the max watts and the number of turn/hazard. But the 486 says it is compatible with the CC. This may be why we are having CC issues.

Diodedynamics - $60.00
Autozone - $51.99

BIGGBOB
12-13-2014, 08:10 AM
You can find the flasher at amazon for $35.00