How to: Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning [Archive] - Page 2 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: How to: Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning


Pages : 1 [2]

unico
05-23-2012, 02:58 AM
hello everyone!i have 2002 bravada, i also have rough idle,and its shaking bad,.i have this after cleaning throttle body,changing spark plugs with ac delco. then i realize my camshaft actuator solenoid is leaking,.at first i clean it and remove the oil from ELEC connection,then it runs like new,but after 80kms it goes back shaking bad.so i did clean it again because i have to wait for my new parts,from the U.S. coz the price here in canada from the dealer is $250.after a week (80kms) it goes back rough and shaking idle so i put the new solenoid but after 70-80kms it happens again,.so i check the new solenoid for oil leaks but negative,then when i put it again it runs as new again,.what should i do?coz im worrying if i reached the 80 kms again,. oh and i forgot to tell that everytime i have rough and shaking idle i have blinking (CES) and then the light will stay,. and everytime i disconnect the negative in battery i wait for 30 min,.hope you can help me,.thanks in advice guys!!:)

phacue
05-23-2012, 01:10 PM
Does it have a check engine light on?
Go to an auto parts store & have it scanned.
It could be a cam position sensor , or a 02 sensor
You need to see what the puter says

charlestonusc
05-23-2012, 01:12 PM
definitely get the CEL diagnosed asap. just because you disconnect the battery and fault goes away doesn't mean the problem is fixed.

and remember just the code that the CEL gives you isn't diagnosing what needs to be replaced. it is only giving you a starting point to troubleshoot the issue.

please post back and let us know what the codes are.

unico
05-23-2012, 03:16 PM
thank you for quick response., yeah i went to auto value for free diagnose before i have p0014,p1220,p1120 and p0300., and the p1220 and p1120 is because i forgot to remove the negative in bat when i clean the throttle body,.and when i did the spark plugs and cleaning the actuator solenoid at first time i went back to autovalue and the codes vanish coz im removing the bat for 30 min,so what im saying is everytime i clean and remove the oil from the connector the codes disappear and returns after 80 kms with shaking and rough idle,.even when i put the new CPAS from last week after 70-80 kms it happens again and thats yesterday,.and i dont know what to do,thank you in advance i really appreciate it,..;)

phacue
05-23-2012, 04:38 PM
Did they give you a description of the codes?
P0014 is wrong cam phase angle , p1220 is throttle position sensor ,
P1120 is throttle position motor , p0300 is random / multiple misfire.
Being as you just went thru that stuff, I would go back & check your work before you start throwing more parts at it.
P0300 & rough running can come from a weak fuel pump, bad battery ,Vacuum leak, a number of things.
Check your stuff out

unico
05-23-2012, 04:47 PM
Thank you for reply., i will do what you have said., can you guide me which first and is which to check?:s right now im using it and its like brand new no CES no shaking no rough idle., but im afraid when i hit the 80kms again., :(
Thank you in advance!:thx

charlestonusc
05-24-2012, 06:54 AM
I would suggest waiting for CEL to come back. Once it does go and get the codes checked AGAIN to ensure they are the same and have not changed. Once you get that done come back with every detailed code before you start removing the battery and other components and we can try and go from there.

Not sure if it is in your budget, but it might be more convenient for you to buy your own scanner. Some people find it useful to have it at the house but then others don't mind driving to the parts store. Just a suggestion.

Look forward to hearing back on the situation.

unico
05-24-2012, 06:54 PM
I would suggest waiting for CEL to come back. Once it does go and get the codes checked AGAIN to ensure they are the same and have not changed. Once you get that done come back with every detailed code before you start removing the battery and other components and we can try and go from there.

Not sure if it is in your budget, but it might be more convenient for you to buy your own scanner. Some people find it useful to have it at the house but then others don't mind driving to the parts store. Just a suggestion.

Look forward to hearing back on the situation.

yesterday it came back, rough idle,shaking on stop and SES light blinking.so i go straight to the autovalue for the diagnose and i have P0305(cyl#5misfire)if im right?so when i got home i check the solenoid and its clear,and now while driving to go home the light came on again in 40kms same problem occur so i went to auto value for diagnose and now get the P0300(random misfire?).
I think i have other problem,and hoping its not expensive,i dont want to go to dealer coz i am afraid to their cost.
And about the scanner? which one is better but not to expensive and where?:)
hope you guys can help me..:) thank you!!

HiPowerShooter
05-24-2012, 11:47 PM
Check "Harbor Freight Tools"...I have a basic scanner from them. I think after the easy to find 20% off coupon, it ended up costing me about $40 or so.

Good luck!

charlestonusc
05-25-2012, 03:38 PM
i had the same misfire issue with my 2001 escort zx2. i replaced the original plug wires with new ones, b/c they'd never been changed, and went ahead and replaced all spark plugs also.

it fixed the problem and it has yet to return. so i would look at your plugs and wires and make sure they are still in good shape. they have a plug diagnosing tool that you plug into the block, in place of the actual plug, and when you try to start your car it lights up the tool to let you know the system is working.

not suggesting you buy that tool but i just saw it on a youtube video the other day while working my own car issues.

Spellbound
06-17-2012, 11:42 AM
so wait. the CPAS isnt suppose to have oil near the screens or any of that? Its suppose to be dry?...


I get to replace my sensor today...

tedstech
06-25-2012, 09:35 PM
My 80k mile rainier has rough idle at start up(no codes) but once it gets to operating temps, everything is great. I have cleaned throttle body, new GM plugs, and fuel filter. It was suggested to replace the CPAS. Do these symptoms seem to warrant this? Thank you in advance.

mcc
07-09-2012, 04:56 PM
I replaced my CPAS because it had oil in the connector even though I didn't have a code for it. The following happened:

*Idle a little smoother after start (still cranks a little longer than it should)
*More power when accelerating? Not sure.
*LTFT now 0 to -5% instead of -5% to -10%

All this is after having recently replaced:
*Fuel filter
*Air filter
*Spark plugs (41-103)
*Thermostat
*Coolant temp sensor
*Upstream O2 sensor

As well as cleaning the throttle body, two bottles of Techron, and a coolant flush.

So it seems to me that it can be bad within a certain range and still not throw a code. It's only ~$40 for a GM one from GM Parts East so it shouldn't hurt your wallet too much to give it a shot. The one I received (built 5/12 according to the box) has what look like springs around the mesh presumably to keep them from coming off inside the engine.

BOBD1950
07-11-2012, 11:14 PM
From a 100% feedback dealer;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190682716877

Just orderd it.


How sensitive are these engines to Viscosity!

Hates 10-30 even in 100 deg heat waves.!! (Eratic idle)..etc.

5-30 Semi - Syn Castrol. seems OK.

mcc
07-12-2012, 09:49 AM
Update on my LTFT: It's moved back to where it was before the CPAS replacement. It still runs better though.

tedstech
07-12-2012, 01:02 PM
I purchased the part from the same ebay source that bob did. Im located where he is. Its Roger Dean Chevrolet. Went right to the parts counter and got the ebay price.

keith81
07-29-2012, 12:10 AM
Today i replaced plugs,with delco 41-103, thermostat, fan clutch, air filter, fuel filter, changed oil full synthetic 5w-30, and cleaned the camshaft position actuator solenoid. It has a small amount of oil in plug. I cleaned it out though. Now before i done all this I had no misfire, no rough idle or anything, just not to good gas mileage. After i finished doing all this i started it up and man she run ruff. it popped in a p-0300 and then a p-0303. I erased them out and all that comes back is the 0300. I also cleaned the throttle body. The SES light is flashin a bunch of times and then paused and flashes a bunch again. I have double checked all my work and all is fine. I am a transmission mechanic. So im no beginner by any means. I am thinking i either have to replace the cpas or the number 3 coil. If any one can help me in any way or point me in the right direction i would greatly appreciate it. By the way this is a 03 trailblazer ls 4.2 liter 2wd with 150,000 miles. This just really blows my mind because before i done all of this she ran fine and idled fine. Now man im teling you driving sixty down the road it is cuttin in and out bad. I also disconnected the battery for about 45 minutes while i cleaned the tb. Thanks in advance for any and all inputs. This is a awesome place to learn anything you need to. You people are amazing for helping all of us and learning us new stuff.

keith81
07-30-2012, 11:24 AM
I figured out what my problem was. I had a bad spark plug in number 3.

eeehabt
08-06-2012, 12:47 AM
Hi All,
I have a friend whose truck is trailblazer 06. The SES threw the code P0014. The scanner tool interpreted the code as (P0014 Exhaust (B) camshaft position timing over advanced). What should we change? The camshaft actuator or the camshaft sensor?
Help from the experts is highly appreciated.

jkaschyk
08-10-2012, 08:09 PM
Hello, first post here. Thanks for the excellent write up. I was able to do this in about 30 min. after throwing a P0014 code.

Big FYI... I was able to buy the part at my local Chevy dealer for $57.00! (Autozone wanted $64.99 and had to order it.) Although the part number is still the same, it appears to have been redesigned with what looks like a spring in the spaces where the screens had been. Seems like a good idea because even though my CPAS was perfectly clean, one of the screens had detached. :thumbsup:

th30dd7
08-26-2012, 08:15 PM
Wondering if I should pull my CPAS. What do you guys think?

I bought the TB with 50,000. I've had it for a month now and I am averaging 13-14 mpg in town. GU6 gearing, 4wd, I6. I've changed the spark plugs, air filter and the oil. I will be doing the fuel filter next. The sensor is very clean on the outside, no leaks. The vehicle has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. I am thinking of pulling it to make sure the screens are clean and in place. If not I can reinstall it and have it replaced under warranty. The only issue with this is I have read some people are having problems after cleaning or replacing theirs. What should I do?

HiPowerShooter
08-26-2012, 10:39 PM
If you're not throwing codes...leave it alone.

jkaschyk
08-28-2012, 06:06 PM
I will be doing the fuel filter next.


They started putting the fuel filters inside the gas tanks in '05 and it's part of the fuel pump. (dumb but true) :crazy:

I would also agree leaving the CPAS alone if it's not throwing codes.

jeffro312
09-05-2012, 07:51 PM
newbie here just a probably stupid question... i got the bad vibration thing tried all so trying this... i have 04 rainer and i went to inspect where this was located and i see no need to remove belts or power steering pumps can't i just unbolt the bolt and pull it out???

Nate_the_Great
10-03-2012, 11:16 PM
I am looking for some help here. "Urbanarkansas" has helped me a lot with postings. I changed my "CPAS" today after work. The "CPAS" was clogged in one of the screens. I put my OBD scanner and I received a code of "P0449". What else could cause this code?:grouphug:

Raydar
10-04-2012, 05:46 AM
A couple of things....
You may have to drive the car for a bit to get the code to clear. When mine was acting up, it sometimes took five minutes on the expressway to get it to clear.

Also, I found it to be very sensitive to old (i.e., thick) oil. If it's due for a change, then change it. I also found that it doesn't like 10W40 oil. It wants the recommended oil. (It will settle for 10W30, just fine.)

My TB, with 140K on the odo, is just fine with that.
Gotta keep that oil changed. Mine likes every 5K changes.

phacue
10-04-2012, 07:26 AM
Test your Vent Valve solinoid
Should hear a click when power goes on & off

jpbjr1955
10-18-2012, 02:36 PM
Recently threw a p0014 code on my 2008 TB and after research was directed to the CPAS.

It is incorrect to say that this is a "Dealer Only" part.

Dorman manufactures a direct replacement for this, their P/N 917-010.

Prices vary some but I have gotten it off the shelf for just under $35.00 before tax and will replace mine this weekend.

fullerdf
11-12-2012, 04:16 PM
Thanks all for the excellent thread. Was able to pull my CPAS with only minor difficulty trying to figure out the first step ... removing the connector. Luckily I didn't break it trying to get it off.

I'm not sure if I did it correctly but there is a little gray piece of plastic that will slide up on the left of the connector (viewed from the front of the car). That seems to release the connector and allow it to come off. Someone that really knows might be able to clarify this step a little.

Now for my issue ----

I have seen several entries on this thread indicating a screen was missing from the CPAS when they pulled it to clean the actuator. I have yet to see any comments about missing screens other than one indicating the CPAS should be replaced if a screen is missing. (Apology in advance if I missed one in the 28 pages of replies.)

I pulled my CPAS after a code P0014 appeared. It was very clean but had a missing screen. The outer-most of the three screens was not found ... only found the small black plastic retainer for the screen. It was lying on the radiator hose fitting just under the CPAS after I pulled the CPAS out of the block. I guess it fell to that spot as I pulled the CPAS.

I found my flashlight and inspection mirror and did a thorough exam of the bore but found no evidence of the screen. After seeing entry #198 about having to replace an engine (http://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost.php?p=1147229&postcount=198) when the CPAS failed, it doesn't seem too smart to just replace the actuator and ignore the little metal screen that has apparently been sucked into the oil passages somewhere.

If anyone knows, please tell me what likely happened to the screen and what if anything should be done to find/extract the wayward mesh. According to the info from the parts store code reader, a "blocked oil passage in the camshaft actuator assembly or engine" can cause the P0014 code. It can't be good for metallic items to circulate with the oil unless they just end up in the oil filter and are trapped before clogging a passage or doing other (perhaps severe) damage.

Please advise.

sinaloa
11-12-2012, 11:55 PM
thanx guy for the pictures, great job. I'll try to do this next weekend and we'll see what happens.

M165766
12-07-2012, 04:39 PM
After 198K miles, two years of intermittant cruise control failures that only took restarting the engine to fix, regular self-clearing SES lights, unexplained stumble/stalls, and occasional trapped P0340 codes I replaced the CPAS and the sensor today. Both went smoothly thanks to the information here and some excellent U Tube videos. Darn shame GM didn't make the power steering pump reservoir just a tad smaller to clear the CPAS! CPAS and sensor can be had for less than $60 incl shipping on Amazon these days. We will see how things go

Too much stuff
12-07-2012, 10:01 PM
Please let the forum know how things work out.

fullerdf
12-08-2012, 03:53 PM
Thanks all for the excellent thread. Was able to pull my CPAS with only minor difficulty trying to figure out the first step ... removing the connector. Luckily I didn't break it trying to get it off.

I'm not sure if I did it correctly but there is a little gray piece of plastic that will slide up on the left of the connector (viewed from the front of the car). That seems to release the connector and allow it to come off. Someone that really knows might be able to clarify this step a little.

Now for my issue ----

I have seen several entries on this thread indicating a screen was missing from the CPAS when they pulled it to clean the actuator. I have yet to see any comments about missing screens other than one indicating the CPAS should be replaced if a screen is missing. (Apology in advance if I missed one in the 28 pages of replies.)

I pulled my CPAS after a code P0014 appeared. It was very clean but had a missing screen. The outer-most of the three screens was not found ... only found the small black plastic retainer for the screen. It was lying on the radiator hose fitting just under the CPAS after I pulled the CPAS out of the block. I guess it fell to that spot as I pulled the CPAS.

I found my flashlight and inspection mirror and did a thorough exam of the bore but found no evidence of the screen. After seeing entry #198 about having to replace an engine (http://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost.php?p=1147229&postcount=198) when the CPAS failed, it doesn't seem too smart to just replace the actuator and ignore the little metal screen that has apparently been sucked into the oil passages somewhere.

If anyone knows, please tell me what likely happened to the screen and what if anything should be done to find/extract the wayward mesh. According to the info from the parts store code reader, a "blocked oil passage in the camshaft actuator assembly or engine" can cause the P0014 code. It can't be good for metallic items to circulate with the oil unless they just end up in the oil filter and are trapped before clogging a passage or doing other (perhaps severe) damage.

Please advise.

Well folks, no one has commented on the issue of missing screens but replacing the actuator seems to have solved all issues and nothing else has failed due to the wayward screen. My TB is running great and the check engine light has remained off. I'd still like to know if the missing screens could be a significant issue but ... So far ... So good. :)

M165766
12-08-2012, 06:20 PM
SES light went out after less than 5 mile driving. No 'cruise' failures since I did the job. Have another issue to pursue but this is not the thread for it. Only question 'why did I wait so long?'.:)

cmadmaxman
12-17-2012, 11:00 AM
Just bought my on rockauto.
DELPHI SL10064 Variable Timing Solenoid $ 49.79
Will get it changed out this week before our Christmas trip.

Thanks for the help and have a Very Merry Christmas Y'all!:thx

Intrgueing
12-18-2012, 11:12 PM
I have had an intermittent P0016 for quite some time. Cleaned CPAS/Flushed oil (several times - Gunk - MMO - Sea Foam) / Replaced CPAS with new GM one, running 5w30 synthetic - still getting the code.

When it is warm it hardly ever happens. When ambient temps are below 35 I get the code at every cold start - once cleared it never comes back - till starting cold again. After cold start when cold outside - engine is loud like a diesel. Oil pressure is fine on gauge, once engine warms up noise completely goes away. Intermittently when problem occurs the cruise control does not work even when MIL has been cleared. No driveability issues, 16 city 20 highway mileage. Idle is very smooth - plenty of power. New plugs / clean TB.

Truck is 2004 - 4.2 with 96K. When I replaced CPAS the plug was filled with oil. After cleaning and CPAS replacement now no oil.

I was thinking of trying a cam position sensor. Is there any way to test them before throwing money at it? Is there anything else I can test? What else could it be?

Intrgueing
12-19-2012, 12:11 AM
After posting I went and looked around and there is oil in the connector of the new CPAS. I guess I got bit with a bad GM CPAS out of the box! There is nothing with the truck that could cause the CPAS to leak oil is there?

Too much stuff
12-19-2012, 06:12 AM
You are correct, it should not be leaking.

charlestonusc
12-24-2012, 02:34 PM
well I just got home from a deplyoment and get to try and fix this issue again. before I left I removed the part with the three screens and everything looked fine and clean. envoy 2006 6 cyclinder runs perfect with no problems. I'm going to change oil with mobil one synthetic and see if that makes the code go away.

sam_pon
12-30-2012, 01:12 AM
Thanks a lot for this very useful guide ;

it is realy helped me to understand many things .

Hosch
01-02-2013, 03:54 PM
I got codes P0013 and P0014 so i replaced the Camshaft position sensor (CMP) and it didn't fix it. So I then replaced the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid (CPAS) and it works fine now. I found the (CMP) at Advance auto for $34 and the (CPAS) on ebay, brand new, for $38 and free shipping. (CPAS) part # is 12602516

sinaloa
01-02-2013, 11:23 PM
sorry guy but you are wrong, the pics belong to a Engine Variable Timing Solenoid, you can check it in Autozone Autoparts.:no:

Ray Dockrey
01-03-2013, 02:46 PM
sorry guy but you are wrong, the pics belong to a Engine Variable Timing Solenoid, you can check it in Autozone Autoparts.:no:Gm doesn't call it a EVT Solenoid. It is called the CPAS like stated above. Before you come on here telling people they are wrong you need to know what you are talking about. Unless you are just a troll.

Hosch
01-03-2013, 04:33 PM
Thanks Roy Dockrey. I appreciate the back up.

sinaloa
01-03-2013, 09:13 PM
Sorry guys that wasn't my intention and i don't pretend to know more than you, i think the posts were mixed, remember what i said
"the pics belong " okey..:)

Hosch
01-04-2013, 09:00 PM
When I first started having this problem I replaced all the spark plugs. Still had the p0013 and p0014 codes. Then I replaced they (CMP) and that didn't work. I then replaced the (CPAS) and that cleared the the two codes. Now my check engine light is back on with a cylinder 3 mis fire code. At idle and stopped the engine runs very rough. Obviously this is due to the mis fire and cy.3. Where do I go from here? Where is the next place to look? Thanks again for everything.

54inches
01-04-2013, 09:51 PM
This seems like a hotter thread than the other, so I will repost.....

This may be a known, but it looks like Dorman makes the Cam PAS/Variable Valve Timing Actuator now:

Dorman # 917-010
Delphi # SL10064.

Both were $64.99 this date in Houston, Texas.

sinaloa
01-05-2013, 01:45 AM
maybe this can help you.:thumbsup:


shaking motor
Hi guys here again, a litle help with one issue, when I turn on my envoy the engine start to shaking, I tried checking the ignition coils , changed the spark plugs twice, I tried with a couple of lucas, but the prublem persist, I disconnect the battery several times, then the engine works on 600 rpm, when turn off the engine and I turn it on again the rpm goes up until 900 rpm, and the power is to low too,I had nearly two months with this problem, any idea to fix this problem will be very greatly appreciated. another thing where I can post my threads I don't know the place for that reazon I'd not posted before.


guys, finally solved, the problem was a damaged coil, wen the motor was cold the coil seems good, but it was intermitent how I did it? I checked the computer with a scanner, yes, and the scanner told me that the problem was in the coil, so, i run the car about 15 minutes above 65 mile, then and I checked it with the scanner again and the problem was the same, then I checked the coils one by one, only losening the bolts and pulling the coils until can hear the sound of the coils, the number 6, wasn't working, replaced it and the motor works very well!!, I hope this experience helps all of you peoples ....

Mistral150
01-22-2013, 07:56 PM
Hi.
After reading a bit here I was still wondering if there was a reason for cleaning Exhaust cam position actuator solenoid valve ? What are the symptoms of a bad part or the need to clean it ? Any MPG improvement ?

Thanks a lot. :tiphat

Chopper320
02-22-2013, 08:49 PM
First off thanks for all of the information provided on this thread!

My problem: about 6 months ago I was getting the p0014 code and running rough at idle. I replaced a bad looking cpas and can sensor and everything was great.

Now just last week, it started running really rough at idle again and I got the p0014 code again. I just pulled the cpas again and it was pretty dirty so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and reinstalled. When I first started the car up, it felt like it was running smoother but very quickly started getting a flashing ses light and the code is random misfire. Now it's runniing rougher and I keep getting the blinking ses light.

What could I have done when cleaning and reinstalling the cpas that would have caused this? Also, any ideas why a new cpas would be in bad shape in only 6 months again? Thanks

Chopper320
02-23-2013, 05:12 PM
Well I got a new cpas and I'm still getting the random misfire. I just don't unserstand why I didn't get the misfire until pulling the cpas

stidwe
03-22-2013, 10:18 AM
I had my cpas changed out the other day by a mechanic friend due to it leaking oil and making the TB have erratic idle. I do have increased performance and better idle. It's like the car is five years old again instead of ten!!! :D

AndreE1980
05-08-2013, 09:48 PM
I'm not much of a mechanic, but I try to do as much as I can so I don't have to give all my money to a mechanic. Recently, my trailblazer began idling very rough and threw a p1345..turned out to be a problem with the CPAS. Following this post I was able to remove it. I noticed the screens were missing, so I replaced it. Excellent visuals and instruction. Thanks everyone!:thumbsup:

str8linehero
05-11-2013, 07:05 PM
I have moved the PSP, removed the 10mm bolt from housing but the solenoid will not come out. Is there something i'm missing or a special way to do this? Help will be greatly appreciated:bonk:

AndreE1980
05-11-2013, 09:00 PM
You may need to take a flat head and scrape away some of the "crust" that has built up over time around the solenoid and the engine. The flat head will help pry it loose and it should come out fairly easily.

ronsplit
06-13-2013, 02:26 PM
New member Hi everyone. 5.3l v8 Starts up good after 5 mins. Stop at red light runs rough then starts to miss runs on 7 cyl. Hit passing gear it will clear out but will miss again at next stop. Changed plugs to iridium ,changed wires,changed number 8 coil PAC ,cleaned throttle body valve just sprayed didn't take off engine,didn't change anything after a while it will run good no more miss but an occasional rough idle. Had a smoke test on it no vacuum leaks found . Any thoughts thanks in advance

AndreE1980
06-13-2013, 02:52 PM
Sounds similar to what was going on with my trailblazer. I replaced the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid and solved my problem. The CPAS has screens on it that go bad. If the screens are bad, it will mess with the timing of the vehicle. If you're looking at the engine the CPAS is on the left side near the power steering pump. You'll need to take of the serpentine belt and unbolt the power steering pump. With the serpentine belt off you will be able to rotate the power steering pump pulley in order to unbolt the pump. The CPAS can be unbolted with a 10mm. If it's been in there for a long time, you may need a screw driver to get it loose. Inspect the CPAS for broken or missing screens. If the screens are intact you may be able to clean it and get by. I replaced mine. Approx $65 at O'Reilly.

jmonica
06-16-2013, 10:41 AM
Thanks for posting these instructions 4 years ago. Made the job very easy. I would still be struggling to get the PSP pulley off more than likely. This about the 100th time this forum and all the great people on it have helped me or saved me a ton of time. I'm glad it's such an active forum too. Thanks again!:thx

Mean Max
06-23-2013, 02:33 PM
Another huge thanks here too! :thumbsup:

Just replaced mine exactly as instructed here, went like clockwork.

Max ;)

thor68372rockon
07-15-2013, 02:56 AM
Hey Guys, Thought I Would Share A Fix I Found From A 40 Yr. Mechanic. He Says Buy The Powder Version Of TIDE Laundry Soap, Drop Exhaust Off Of Manifold, Dump A Lot Of The Detergent Down The Inlet Pipe (He Does Not Specify How Much) Add Water, And Let Set 24 To 48 Hours Inside Catalytic Converter. He Says The 90's & 2000 Era Crown Vic's Are Notorious For Plugging In The Cats. I Did This To My 2003 Crown Vic I Bought At A Police Auction & It Worked Great, I Had To Grind Off 2 Bolts That Held Catalytic To Inlet Pipe So I Could Chip Some Of The Hard Slag Type Stuff Off The Honey Comb In The Catalytic, But It Did Loosen It Up Nice. I Would Do This A 100 Times Again Other Than Paying $400.00 For A New One. Hope This Helps Save Some Money!:cool:

P.S. This Guy Used To Work For The City Fixing The Police & Sheriffs Cars Also.

thor68372rockon
07-15-2013, 04:18 AM
Modern variable camshaft systems require very clean oil and at least once a year engine oil changes. This is just one reason that GM has moved to the newer DEXOS semi-sythetic oil for newer 2011 vehicles.

The truth is that no one can be 100% certain how a used vehicle was treated by it's previous owner. Thus, whenever I buy a used vehicle the first thing I do with the engine is change the spark plugs, change air filter and flush/change the oil. I do this no matter how old the vehicle is.

There are various products designed to flush the engine. However it is well known that many of them are composed of over 80% Kerosene after studying the MSDS sheets. As a result I use a quart of kerosene to flush my engine at every oil change. When I refill the engine I add six quarts of oil and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. This keeps everything running clean and well. I have never had a CEL come on since I bought my 2005 over a year ago. My :m2:


Yep, My Grandpa was a heavy equipment mechanic for 42 Yrs. He would drain the engine oil, put the plug back in, And he always put 1 gallon of kerosene in the crankcase, Started the engine and ran it for 1-2 minutes, Drained it, then changed the oil & Filter. Diesel & Kerosene are oil based, I've used diesel if kerosene was not handy, but it cleans your oil galleys, lifters, valves. I do it every oil change. I use 1 Quart of Lucas oil Stabilizer, But I Have always heard excellent things about marvel mystery oil, use it in all my air tools & air compressors. Thanks for bringing that useful bit of info up!:cool:

kkoether
08-10-2013, 06:52 PM
Thanks to all the good info in this thread I removed and cleaned the CPAS in the wifes 04 Rainier. The screens were all intact and really not dirty. I think my problem is the oil leaking through the coil and out the pins. Cleaned everything good and reinstalled. The truck is definitely running better. I ordered a new CPAS for GM Partsdirect.com for $46.70 to my door. Will install when it arrives.

I work on CNC machine tools for a living. It's been my experience the oil and electricity don't mix well. I suspect that the coil for the valve is full of oil and still not shifting properly. We'll see how much better it runs with a new CPAS later in the week.

Keith

lazylaser
08-11-2013, 02:51 PM
Thanks to all the good info in this thread I removed and cleaned the CPAS in the wifes 04 Rainier. The screens were all intact and really not dirty. I think my problem is the oil leaking through the coil and out the pins. Cleaned everything good and reinstalled. The truck is definitely running better. I ordered a new CPAS for GM Partsdirect.com for $46.70 to my door. Will install when it arrives.

I work on CNC machine tools for a living. It's been my experience the oil and electricity don't mix well. I suspect that the coil for the valve is full of oil and still not shifting properly. We'll see how much better it runs with a new CPAS later in the week.

Keith

Can you please list the part number that you ordered, I'd like to make sure that I order the correct part "Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid" and not the sensor on accident. Thanks. Oil is going right through mine and seeping through the pins.

kkoether
08-11-2013, 07:37 PM
Can you please list the part number that you ordered, I'd like to make sure that I order the correct part "Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid" and not the sensor on accident. Thanks. Oil is going right through mine and seeping through the pins.

I ordered part # 12615873. I believe it is a direct replacement for part # 12602516 which was the original part #. Yup, mine has the same issue. Cleaned it up and it helped but I don't expect it to last for long since it is obviously leaking oil.

Keith

lazylaser
08-12-2013, 09:12 AM
I ordered part # 12615873. I believe it is a direct replacement for part # 12602516 which was the original part #. Y


Thanks I got it ordered,
SUBTOTAL:
$33.75
PROCESSING & HANDLING TOTAL:
$12.95

JamieC
09-11-2013, 09:09 AM
Forgive me for I did skip a bunch of posts. I have a 2005 Trailblazer, Since we have owned it, it has always idled kinda high. When Seems when it shifts it goes goes into gear really loud like, It also lurches forward because the idle drops then jumps back up. The Check engine light started coming on and going off pretty regular. My mechanic said that the code Giving was the P0013 ("B" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1). I did read the beginning of this thread and saw the pictures on how to replace the Solenoid. I just want to make sure this is what I will need to do. I have no problems jumping into this and fixing it. I just need to make sure that the P0013 and this thread are the same. Thanks for any help you provide.

kkoether
09-11-2013, 12:25 PM
Forgive me for I did skip a bunch of posts. I have a 2005 Trailblazer, Since we have owned it, it has always idled kinda high. When Seems when it shifts it goes goes into gear really loud like, It also lurches forward because the idle drops then jumps back up. The Check engine light started coming on and going off pretty regular. My mechanic said that the code Giving was the P0013 ("B" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1). I did read the beginning of this thread and saw the pictures on how to replace the Solenoid. I just want to make sure this is what I will need to do. I have no problems jumping into this and fixing it. I just need to make sure that the P0013 and this thread are the same. Thanks for any help you provide.

Unplug the cable from the actuator. If there is oil in the plug it's bad. Mine was not throwing codes but it was shifting funny and getting rotten gas mileage and the plug had oil in it. Also make sure your oil is changed at the proper intervals with the proper viscosity oil. Dirty oil can mess with the proper functioning of the Cam Position Actuator. Good Luck.

Edcast
09-13-2013, 11:34 AM
This is gonna sound extremely stupid, but my truck is idling, replaced all coil packs and cleaned the throttle body 2 times and still idles. A while back a friend ran it on a computer and it said something about a camshaft sensor or stank shaft. Either or, I don't remember. Anyways, is this something people with little mechanical skills can do? Also, upon removing the units (sensors) will oil come out from the engine? Anything I should worry about?

kkoether
09-13-2013, 12:46 PM
This is gonna sound extremely stupid, but my truck is idling, replaced all coil packs and cleaned the throttle body 2 times and still idles. A while back a friend ran it on a computer and it said something about a camshaft sensor or stank shaft. Either or, I don't remember. Anyways, is this something people with little mechanical skills can do? Also, upon removing the units (sensors) will oil come out from the engine? Anything I should worry about?

It's not a bad job. The biggest pain is you have to remove the serpentine belt and remove the 3 mounting screws that hold the power steering pump in place. The pump has to be moved to completely remove the Cam Position Actuator Solenoid from the engine. You won't loose any oil either. One quick way to determine if the CPAS is an issue is to unplug it and see if there is oil in the plug. Good Luck!

kilrv6
09-15-2013, 12:49 PM
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AIIYTW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004BYENF4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0JWHDH1XMVR8YEAHRHSN

Here is one from Amazon, $32.98, FREE shipping. Exact fit.

kkoether
09-15-2013, 05:03 PM
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AIIYTW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004BYENF4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0JWHDH1XMVR8YEAHRHSN

Here is one from Amazon, $32.98, FREE shipping. Exact fit.

I chose the GM part because I had read quite a few posts where people had trouble with the Dorman part not working properly. YMMV.

Josh2012
09-15-2013, 09:12 PM
So stay away from Dorman, what about Duralast or Delphi brand? I am picking one up this week and want to make sure to get a good quality brand. :thx

kkoether
09-18-2013, 02:08 PM
So stay away from Dorman, what about Duralast or Delphi brand? I am picking one up this week and want to make sure to get a good quality brand. :thx

I have no idea on those. I chose to go with http://www.gmpartsdirect.com for mine. I ordered part #12615873. It was a Genuine GM part. So far so good. It cured my issues.

phacue
09-18-2013, 04:55 PM
So stay away from Dorman, what about Duralast or Delphi brand? I am picking one up this week and want to make sure to get a good quality brand. :thx

So I would go for the delco or Delphi , I got a bad dorman out of the box & now the dorman one I have in is giving me the code again.
You might save a few bucks on the dorman , but it seems it wasn't worth the hassle.:duh:

Josh2012
09-19-2013, 10:35 AM
I ended up getting the Delphi one and its great. I think its safe to say its better then the Dorman and right under GM for parts.

phacue
09-21-2013, 03:28 PM
I ended up getting the Delphi one and its great. I think its safe to say its better then the Dorman and right under GM for parts.

Prob a good choice , hard to say if Delphi is better or worse than delco seeing as Delphi made a lot of factory parts for GM .

SteveMontes
10-20-2013, 11:36 AM
Is this the same for the uplander? So Rodie gave me some homework, and I did it. I also took pictures and wanted to post a How-To writeup. To keep things simple (and keep my fingers from falling off) the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid will be shortened to the CPAS.


Tools Needed:
10 mm socket (to remove the bolt holding the CPAS in place)
3/8 in breaker bar (to release the belt tensioner to remove the belt)
1/2 in socket (to remove the bolts holding the power steering pump in place)
socket extension (to help in removal of the power steering pump bolts)
Air compressor and blow gun

Supplies Needed:
Carb cleaner spray (or any no-residue parts cleaner)
Paper towels (preferably lint free)



I started by unhooking the battery (just to be safe) and disconnecting the CPAS from the wiring harness.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/3a9db003.jpg

I used my breaker bar to release the tensioner and remove the belt. (hint, its a great time to pull the belt out and inspect for cracks/fraying)

I then proceeded to remove the 3 bolts from the power steering pump. If you want to use the special tools to remove the pulley from the pump and then re -install the pulley when you are done more power to ya, but it is not necessary. The holes in the pulley are plenty big enough to get a socket in there to remove the bolts. (I used a 1/2 in socket even though I am pretty sure the bolts are metric but the 1/2 inch grabbed the bolts and held them while I was re-installing them.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/7168e9bf.jpg
Bolt 1

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/bc6c3837.jpg
Bolt 2

I would post a picture of me removing Bolt 3 but a picture of the back of my head while I had my whole arm in the engine bay would be useless...

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/761bc7aa.jpg
The CPAS. Dirty...

I let all the oil drain from it and then I sprayed it out with carb spray. I removed the o-ring before I cleaned it so the carb spray wouldn't eat it.
I then gave it a healthy dose of air from my compressor to evacuate all the remaining carb spray being careful not to blow directly on the screens.

I failed to photograph the clean CPAS but you can imagine...

Installation is the reverse of removal.

phacue
10-30-2013, 05:06 PM
Is this the same for the uplander?

Try not to reply to posts with pics. (please & thank you)

I'm sure its not going to be the same, the uplander is a front wheel drive that came with a 3.5 L & a 3.9 L V6. this is for the trailblazer & envoy that came with a LL8 4.2 L I6.

phacue
10-30-2013, 05:32 PM
OK, so after a little messing around, I found something interesting.

The cheapie dorman cpas that I put in, apparently is very sensitive to oil viscosity. (my theory)
I had put in 10w30 on the last oil change & the code came up after about 1500 miles.
So did the dreaded p0128...
are the connected? ?? ??:bonk:
Not sure, but I did an oil change about 3500 miles ago with 5w30, & have not had either code come up again.
Until now, & the Change oil light came on at the same time.

tb is running fine, no issues except the codes.

Getting both codes p0128, & the p0014 intermittently.

They don't even show pending when the cel light goes off .

Anyone have any thoughts?
I would appreciate any input before I push it off a cliff.:crazy:

minxcomp1
11-06-2013, 02:14 PM
After reading all 33 pages and 329 posts, I have come to the conclusion that the CPAS IS my problem (due to oil in the connector and random rough idle) even though I have no codes, I will purchase the GM part (not aftermarket), and hope for the best...

:offtopic:This has got to be the CRAZIEST thread that I have read all the way through. Everything from compliments, to arguing, to insulting others' parents, even actual help!! Just my :m2: I am done.. lol

wezrwolf
11-06-2013, 02:14 PM
Thanks urbanarkansas for the great step by step and pics. Made the job easy and worry free. I cleaned the screens and still runs rough with P0014 so next is replacement. I read somewhere that 'relearn' should be performed with replacement. Anyone know anything about that?

tony112668
02-01-2014, 06:53 PM
I USED to liek the trailblazer but everything is just so much work.
first i broke the cam exhaust sensor while replacing water pump. then ran bad got new connector and new cam sensor. THEN running horrible so replaced spark plugs. now code reader says the throttle body .. map sensor... cam actuator... AND IAT sensors are all bad.. (code reader)

didnt find no air leaks, no shorts.. thinking maybe the PCM went but i heard that just about NEVER happens..
FRUSTRATED

cleared codes. same thing asap after 1 minute idling...
:(

tony112668
02-02-2014, 03:06 PM
is the valve supposed to have those screens in all 3 journals except the top one?

if so mine dos not have the middle one..

6stringbass
02-02-2014, 03:56 PM
If you look in the photos of the original post the three journals each have a screen. If one is missing....it's missing. Replace the entire unit. As of today (2/1/2104) the least expensive parts are GM replacements. The Dorman/Delphi units are more expensive ($64-$72) and there have been reports of problems with the Dorman unit. There are mucho sources for GM parts (some sites look different but seem to be run by the same company). www.gmparstdirect.com has been mentioned here several times and has a great price (with shipping) of around $43. My 2006 TB is throwing occasional P0014 codes and that's what brought me here today. Hope that helps.

tony112668
02-02-2014, 05:00 PM
Yeah i ordered one from partsgeek.com as well as a few other sensors aswell.
may as well while i have it apart.
now after this if the thing dont re-program itsself i got to have it done.

give me an OLDER CAR anyday to work on!!!

thanks again.

shmanks
02-09-2014, 04:36 PM
Got the error code of p0017 cam/crank position...pulled the CSAP and bam one of the screens missing just ordered my part going to be here on Wednesday i hope it solves the problem....gotta do an oil change aswell

This forum has helped alot thanks :)

bigodfw
04-03-2014, 02:44 AM
do I have to loosen the bolts to get better access or completely remove the power steering pump ?

Garth
04-03-2014, 11:05 PM
do I have to loosen the bolts to get better access or completely remove the power steering pump ?

You don't have to completely remove it. Take the bolts out then just kinda push it out of the way.

WhipMeister
04-08-2014, 07:26 PM
Great post, Arkansas:hail:. Just replaced mine using your guidance. Took about 30 minutes. Runs and idles great now. Was stumbling and dying every stop.

Coupla notes:

I put in the Dornan from RockAuto. Seems to like it.
The PS pump bolts take a 13mm socket.

nanasgot6
04-14-2014, 05:15 PM
I just replaced mine and it eliminated that idle your having i had the same thing. for a 30 dollar part its not that bad. Go for it it probably will help!. Or clean the throttle body. or sea foam the intake line.!

Can someone tell me where the cam position sensor is located on the engine of a 2004 Trailblazer? How hard is it to change. It cost $35 at Autozone. This is the part I'm told needs to be replaced.
Thanks,

WhipMeister
04-14-2014, 05:27 PM
Can someone tell me where the cam position sensor is located on the engine of a 2004 Trailblazer? How hard is it to change. It cost $35 at Autozone. This is the part I'm told needs to be replaced.
Thanks,

Look at the pics on the first page of this thread.

nanasgot6
04-14-2014, 05:40 PM
Look at the pics on the first page of this thread.


I thought that was the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid. What I have doesn't look like that.

nuts4hotwheels
07-29-2014, 06:20 PM
I plan on doing this job, this weekend.

Do you have to disconnect the hoses from the power steering pump or just unbolt it and drop it down?


FYI: Auto part stores have the actuator listed as a Variable Valve Timing Solenoid. I got one from Autozone for $61.99+ tax

K-dawg
08-04-2014, 03:54 PM
New member here thought I should add some info. I had the idling rough and dieing when the air was on and at idle in traffic issue on my wife's Saab 97x. Tried cleaning the TB first, seemed to run better but still died with the air on in hot weather once in a while. Seems quite random. Read many posts here and on other forums / web and found the "Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid" seemed to be the culprit. Local store had the part and it was not a huge deal to put in, just like the OP. Mine looked very bad, solenoid was semi loose from the actuator, one screen was falling off, one was all clogged up. Replaced the part with a shiny new one, changed the oil to 5-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic and new oil filter. Seems to idle better. Will report back after wife does the hot with air conditioner on commute this week and see if it eliminated the idle and dieing issue.

Here is my old one, looks bad.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I4cmA2rjNE0/U9_c_pGSjTI/AAAAAAAAgVI/3lFVPL7om6k/w1148-h861-no/20140804_121707.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_7-ci-Tzr50/U9_c-HFarQI/AAAAAAAAgU8/Wh2zNYrg9Yw/w1148-h861-no/20140804_121702.jpg

Garth
08-04-2014, 06:58 PM
Everyone join g m t n a t i o n . C o m /forums . The person that made this thread is most likely there now. All of the experts left here years ago when this site became an ad farm.

dricher20
10-11-2014, 03:38 PM
Thanks to the OP, as i used this thread for some instruction yesterday. Although, when i unplugged the electric connector there was a little bit of oil inside the connector of the solenoid itself.

So unfortunately i need a new one :ugh:. I found out the hard way that its a dealer only item, and they didnt even need one. I needed to get it out of my dads shop so i put the old one back in. The best price, at my dads cost was $129. Does anyone know of a better price?

Auto-Zone- "Engine Variable Timing Solenoid"- Dorman 917-010 - 61.99
Duralast TS1012 - 64.99
Napa- "Variable Valve Timing Solenoid" - Delphi DEMSL10064 - 91.99
Orielly- "Variable Timing Solenoid" - Dorman 917-010 - 64.99
Delphi SL10064 - 71.99
Advance- "Engine Variable Timing Solenoid" - Delphi SL10064 - 71.99
Dorman 917-010 - 64.99

Bruce83
10-11-2014, 03:52 PM
I paid $52.04 for this part at my local Chevy dealer and now my 2003 LS L6 engine is getting better gas mileage too.