How to: Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning

So Rodie gave me some homework, and I did it. I also took pictures and wanted to post a How-To writeup. To keep things simple (and keep my fingers from falling off) the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid will be shortened to the CPAS.


Tools Needed:
10 mm socket (to remove the bolt holding the CPAS in place)
3/8 in breaker bar (to release the belt tensioner to remove the belt)
1/2 in socket (to remove the bolts holding the power steering pump in place)
socket extension (to help in removal of the power steering pump bolts)
Air compressor and blow gun

Supplies Needed:
Carb cleaner spray (or any no-residue parts cleaner)
Paper towels (preferably lint free)



I started by unhooking the battery (just to be safe) and disconnecting the CPAS from the wiring harness.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/3a9db003.jpg

I used my breaker bar to release the tensioner and remove the belt. (hint, its a great time to pull the belt out and inspect for cracks/fraying)

I then proceeded to remove the 3 bolts from the power steering pump. If you want to use the special tools to remove the pulley from the pump and then re -install the pulley when you are done more power to ya, but it is not necessary. The holes in the pulley are plenty big enough to get a socket in there to remove the bolts. (I used a 1/2 in socket even though I am pretty sure the bolts are metric but the 1/2 inch grabbed the bolts and held them while I was re-installing them.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/7168e9bf.jpg
Bolt 1

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/bc6c3837.jpg
Bolt 2

I would post a picture of me removing Bolt 3 but a picture of the back of my head while I had my whole arm in the engine bay would be useless...

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/761bc7aa.jpg
The CPAS. Dirty...

I let all the oil drain from it and then I sprayed it out with carb spray. I removed the o-ring before I cleaned it so the carb spray wouldn't eat it.
I then gave it a healthy dose of air from my compressor to evacuate all the remaining carb spray being careful not to blow directly on the screens.

I failed to photograph the clean CPAS but you can imagine...

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Nice writeup and pics.:thumbsup:

Thanks, I won't be afraid to do this again now that I know how simple it is. Side note: My iphone now smells like engine oil. I used it to take the pictures and it now has greasy fingerprints all over it...

Good writeup. Might have to be one of my next maintenance projects.

Very good write up. I'm going to print this and maintenance mine soon before the check soon light comes on.:thx

It seems like there have been alot of threads started about this lately so to help every one out... BUMP.

THANKS FOR THE QUICK RESPONCE AND THE HELP IT WAS A BREEZ!!!!!

DAMM GREAT SITE HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thx

Thanks for the write up as I have been contemplating replacing mine. I wasn't sure what all was involved with the power steering pump and have not taken time to sit down and crack out the repair manual. Thanks again!

The part # 12602516 for the Exhaust cam position actuator solenoid valve! I shopped it at dearlers (dearler only item) and paid with tax $98.00. If you go on line to Parts4chevy.com its $75.00 and there in arizonia I did not want to wait 4days for shiping.



Very easy Job.Remove air cleaner cover .... remove serpentine belt (good time to check belt) ....undo three bolts to steering pump (socket fits right thru holes in pully) ....remove bolt to actuator..slide out.



took me 15-20min to r/r

All this Great help came from other members here!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Guys!:thx



Made a huge dif! in performance.

For those who don't know (me) .... what are the symptoms that lead to this maintenece?

After a dirty throttle body or bad plugs, this seems to be the third most common cause of erratic idle. Sometimes you get a SES light, and when you read the codes, you get one that implicates the unit, but not always. Sometimes people change the unit because it leaks oil and doesn't show any other symptoms. Or they take it out for inspection and discover a missing metal mesh screen or two.

Its not a Crankshaft Position actuator solenoid valve! Its a Cam Position Actuator solenoid valve......no maintance that I know of.....its either good or bad.... There are to my knoledge two sensors one for cam and one for crank...Then theres the Secondary Air solenoid that gets filled with water as in the air pump in that system. You can disconect the lines to the air pump and drain water out to help prevent both of them from freexing up.....

If there is a Crankshaft PAS valve too I am unaware of it .....I thought it was Cam PAS Valve

i saw mine had oil on it can that cause any problems to the engine? im gonna follow the instructions here and clean it tomorrow morning. since i have my SES light on showing code P2101 P0141 P0401 Still trnna figure out the problem with these if some one would give me any advice i would appreciate it but im gonna do some cleaning tomorrow before my truck gets more problems.

10199

10200

Thanks to the OP, as i used this thread for some instruction yesterday. Although, when i unplugged the electric connector there was a little bit of oil inside the connector of the solenoid itself.

So unfortunately i need a new one :ugh:. I found out the hard way that its a dealer only item, and they didnt even need one. I needed to get it out of my dads shop so i put the old one back in. The best price, at my dads cost was $129. Does anyone know of a better price?

Does anyone know of a better price?Ummmmm, did you skip right over post #9? :confused:

I got one last week at parts4chevys.com. New part number is 12615873. $65.62. $9.84 shipping Fedex Ground. 3 days from order to door.

Wow i scanned right over that, sorry. And thank you!

stupid question, I'm sure, but what's with ALL that metal on the screens? Scary lol, mine doesn't leak at the connector or around it and the truck idles well, but should I take it out and clean it for PM?

Sorry if I missed it when I scanned the thread, but is it normal/acceptable for your CPAS to have oil pooled INSIDE the connector?

Both the connector to the wiring harness and the CPAS female portion were filled/soaked.

EDIT: Finally used my noggin, and remembered our Colorado has the same engine minus a cylinder.

http://coloradofans.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=63149&sid=c09bfbe292f728f7194e542a8a34e539&start=25

If there is a screen missing, or oil in the connector, replace it.

FYI to all- gmpartsdirect.com has part number 12615873 for $54.01, plus shipping.

FYI to all- gmpartsdirect.com has part number 12615873 for $54.01, plus shipping.In my experience, gmpartsdirect.com makes SURE to have the lowest posted price, and tack on higher shipping/handling to make up for it. Don't fall for their trick and dismiss other vendors until you compare the price to get it to your door.

That's an old eBay trick :). Shipping is $15. Puts it at $69 for 1.

After doing it for both one and 2 (in case our Colorado needs one- waiting for mama to wake up after 'girls night out' so she can watch our daughter for a few minutes), GMPD is still cheaper to my door when it's all said and done.

Thanx for the write up. Hopefully it will clear my intermittent P0014.

I wasn't getting any codes but I decided to take mine out and clean it today. It appeared to be pretty clean as luck would have it. Here are some of the pictures I took.

PRIOR TO CLEANING
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10188.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10189.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10190.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10191.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10192.jpg

AFTER CLEANING

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10195.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10196.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10197.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10198.jpg



http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10203.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/iznit/CPAS%20CLEANING/SDC10207.jpg


Since I was taking the belt off anyway I decided to replace it. A while back I had to replace my water pump and went I picked up the serpentine belt the guy at the parts shop didnt ask me which size I needed and I failed to ask him which one he was giving me. I have to assume he gave me the shorter version for the longer wheel base model. It was a bear to get on but I did eventually get it on. Afterwords I have read about the difference in sizes so I picked up the correct size this morning. The new belt that was the correct size went on with no problems at all. When you really stomp on it you can tell the difference between the shorter belt and the longer belt. At top RPM I think the shorter belt makes the engine hesitate a bit. Probably because of how tight it is and puts an excessive load on every pulley that it runs. I don't get the same feeling or sound now with the correct size belt on.

Thanks problem solved:):)

Took the advice of this thread and did a little maintenance on the actuator. Mine came out looking gummed up and missing the center screen. Without the correct part on hand I did a clean up job and reinstalled it to the delight of an idling envoy. I've been having trouble with the 0014 and 1345 codes for a while now and after throwing parts... seriously I have... I tried this. At first I couldn't get it out and struggled with it until I gabbed a hold of it with some channel locks. Either way we will see how long it last before the codes pop back on and the car starts to idle rough again. After 30+ miles today, still no code so hopefully I am in the clear.


I've already took a toothbrush to my throttle body three times already, replaced the sensor, replaced my K&N, changed the oil about 4 times with the oil cleaner, replaced the cam sensor, replaced the plugs, the ignition, replaced the fuel pump due to it being really low pressure in the 40's, the filter, chained the oil, replaced the front end with all new shocks and motor mounts, re-lubed the tailpipe, greased the breaks, cleaned the interior, and washed and waxed it. I also talked to her, read to her, granted I did read the Chilton's manual and she probbaly knew she was going under the socket so she spurted and puttered herself into reduced power mode while I was on the freeway. Recently we started to drive around with a bunch of water in the trunk as my wife and I have been noticing that when its loaded, it idles properly. Its weird as we'd hit Costco and all of sudden she's purring like a kitten and I can drive up to light without holding my foot and the gas and break at the same time. Its like driving a stick at every light. But now that this actuator is clean, I only pray that it will work because I am sick of it. The envoy has been the biggest pile since I bought it new in 02. From the dash completely going dead, to the computer dying, the battery dying every year, the complete air and radio assembly going dead, the fan clutch being replaced three times, the brakes going out and the front hubs destroying themselves, the mirrors being possessed, the OnStar never shutting off or always saying it needs services, the constant check engine light, the freaky electrical system... yea pull some fuses and watch the radio come on full blast... WTF!!!... this thing has been a nightmare. pS... please don't tell her I was typing this behind her back, I need to get to work in the morning.

Question: Is it bad to run it without the screen? I really am sick of buying parts for this thing so I think I am going to run it without the screen. It seems to work fine right now.

Question 2: Which way are the black band that hold the screen together supposed to point. I have seen in pictures her online that they point towards the bolt, semi inline with the connector if you position it in the normal spot shown in manuals. Is this correct?

I guess I have another question: Anyone have any luck with those engine flushes? They kind of scare me in that they have to be pulling much needed grease from the bearings.

How does one relube a tailpipe? Is that the muffler bearing you speak of : )

If you are using good oil, you wont need an engine flush. I've disassembled several engines that looked brand new inside and a few that didn't. That's why I only run Mobil 1.

Ordering and installing a new one teamed with a new TB solved our problems. Our tps and cam actuator dumped simultaneously.

As far as batteries go, are you maintaining them and are they properly secured? That's another thread altogether.

Knock on wood, ours has been a dream. PM is the key to longevity.

Thanks for the "How to..." My truck was idling rough. After new plugs, cleaning throttle body, air filter, etc...I went for the camshaft position acuator solenoid cleaning. What I found was the sensor connection filled with oil. The screens were fine, but the gasket was bad. So $72 later ($64+shipping) I installed a new CPAS & it idles great!

:thx :woohoo:

Sorry if I missed it when I scanned the thread, but is it normal/acceptable for your CPAS to have oil pooled INSIDE the connector?

Both the connector to the wiring harness and the CPAS female portion were filled/soaked.

EDIT: Finally used my noggin, and remembered our Colorado has the same engine minus a cylinder.

http://coloradofans.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=63149&sid=c09bfbe292f728f7194e542a8a34e539&start=25

If there is a screen missing, or oil in the connector, replace it.

Kind of old post but simple question about the solanoid. Is it suposed to spin when the bolt is tight? I took mine out and cleaned it. Thought it fixed the code but poped back on. Truck runs fine scanner sayscam position exhaust advanced timing bank 1. Replaced the cps already cleaned solanoid oil change. Not sure if actuator is supposed to spin doesn't seem right tho thx for the help in advance

BTW...NAPA is selling this part now for $31. I called just to see if they would carry it and to my suprise they had it.

Indeed!?!?!?!

What brand? Part number?

BTW...NAPA is selling this part now for $31. I called just to see if they would carry it and to my suprise they had it.


Somehow I cannot believe this is true.
(well I hope it's not true as I just purchased one for around $62).

Sure you have the right part and not the Camshaft Position Sensor thing.
Isn't the part #12615873 "Camshaft actuator solenoid valve"

Somehow I cannot believe this is true.
(well I hope it's not true as I just purchased one for around $62).

Sure you have the right part and not the Camshaft Position Sensor thing.
Isn't the part #12615873 "Camshaft actuator solenoid valve"

I lied...the guy swore it was the correct part, but NO he was quoting the camshaft position sensor! :duh:

Do you think this could be why my wife's car idles rough while in drive but not in neutral? I have also noticed that the car does not accelerate very well. Would this be the problem too?

also autozone.com 31.99 same deal. and Crankshaft position sensor for 20.99

Do you think this could be why my wife's car idles rough while in drive but not in neutral? I have also noticed that the car does not accelerate very well. Would this be the problem too?

I just replaced mine and it eliminated that idle your having i had the same thing. for a 30 dollar part its not that bad. Go for it it probably will help!. Or clean the throttle body. or sea foam the intake line.!

i had the rough idle prob. and cleaning did not help. pulled the CPAS again because i started having the misfire/reduced engine power problem. it was leaking and obviously bad. it is a pain because i was trying to have everything taken care of before i went on vacation. thought it did, and then at the moment we pulled into the condo at teh beach, it started acting the worst it ever has. after a day of diagnostics and checking connectors i pulled out the CPAS and that is when i saw the oil...

had to find one at the place i was, and get it fixed before my friends left with their cars, cause we are staying longer. i called around and one dealership said there were 2 parts, one for 02-04 and one for the newer ones. they older one was priced at $171 and the newer $92... not wanting to spend an extra $80 dollars for no real reason than GM wanted a diff part number i checked into it, and the number given here of #12615873 is right across the board, and is the $92 one. one dealer said that this was replaced by another number which i do not have that is also $92. but anyway for anyone else that runs across this prob, ignore the dealer and get the number listed here, or the replacement if the dealer doesn't have it.

EDIT: it took about 6-7 starts and maybe 15 miles or so for the SES light to go away, because i don't have a tool to clear the codes. it has been getting smoother and smoother idle as time goes by...

This will be my next fix. Hope this takes care of the rough idle.

so wait. the CPAS isnt suppose to have oil near the screens or any of that? Its suppose to be dry?...

First, I would like to say a BIG THANK YOU to all the excellent posts and DIY topics here at trailvoy. :):):):)


I have R/R the CPAS and now have a code P0300. :(

Would this mean I need to have a relearn done since I have put in a new CPAS?

Nevermind-fixed problem-solution

TB disagreed with the Bosch Platinum +4 plugs (part#4482). Replaced with AC DELCO 41-103. Runs like a charm

Thanks again, this site has been a life saver. :thx:thx:thx

So Rodie gave me some homework, and I did it. I also took pictures and wanted to post a How-To writeup. To keep things simple (and keep my fingers from falling off) the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid will be shortened to the CPAS.


Tools Needed:
10 mm socket (to remove the bolt holding the CPAS in place)
3/8 in breaker bar (to release the belt tensioner to remove the belt)
1/2 in socket (to remove the bolts holding the power steering pump in place)
socket extension (to help in removal of the power steering pump bolts)
Air compressor and blow gun

Supplies Needed:
Carb cleaner spray (or any no-residue parts cleaner)
Paper towels (preferably lint free)



I started by unhooking the battery (just to be safe) and disconnecting the CPAS from the wiring harness.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/3a9db003.jpg

I used my breaker bar to release the tensioner and remove the belt. (hint, its a great time to pull the belt out and inspect for cracks/fraying)

I then proceeded to remove the 3 bolts from the power steering pump. If you want to use the special tools to remove the pulley from the pump and then re -install the pulley when you are done more power to ya, but it is not necessary. The holes in the pulley are plenty big enough to get a socket in there to remove the bolts. (I used a 1/2 in socket even though I am pretty sure the bolts are metric but the 1/2 inch grabbed the bolts and held them while I was re-installing them.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/7168e9bf.jpg
Bolt 1

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/bc6c3837.jpg
Bolt 2

I would post a picture of me removing Bolt 3 but a picture of the back of my head while I had my whole arm in the engine bay would be useless...

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt118/Urbanarkansas/761bc7aa.jpg
The CPAS. Dirty...

I let all the oil drain from it and then I sprayed it out with carb spray. I removed the o-ring before I cleaned it so the carb spray wouldn't eat it.
I then gave it a healthy dose of air from my compressor to evacuate all the remaining carb spray being careful not to blow directly on the screens.

I failed to photograph the clean CPAS but you can imagine...

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Urbanarkansas: I just posted some photos of some work I was able to do. I atttempted to remove the CPAS however I found out that I need to purchase more CRAFTMEN tools. Thank you for taking photos. Everyone should do the same when working on their TB's. This can help alot.

I just completed this posting and finished my own CPAS swap in about 15-20mins. The only thing that I was confused on was the belt tensioner-I assumed from reading the post that it would screw lose or click lose, but I learned hands-on that the clockwise turning just swings it down which allowed me to remove the belt. After that it was easy breezy.

Warning when you loosen the screw for the CPAS get ready by placing some paper towels under it to catch the oil it will spill on your engine if your not prepared.

Oh and lastly the Steering Reserve doesn't just move out of the way. You have to push it towards your Airbox before you will be able to back the CPAS out of its cave.

Question: when I removed my old CPAS I noticed one of the screens was missing. I used a mirror to look into it's cave to see if I could find it, but it wasn't there. Do I need to worry about where it may be?

Thanks everyone...this site just saved me 144 bucks in parts and labor at Merchants. They wanted me to pay 214 for parts and labor, but I bought the part online for less than 70bucks and installed it myself in less than 20mins..

Hi, I just finished cleaning my camshaft solenoid. I did it in 1 and 1/2 hours.
I wasnt sure if bolts needed torqued back up, so I just made sure they were
good and tight. I am no mechanic but UrbanArkansas did a great job on the write up and pictures I knew I could do it. Thanks also to all the guys who gave thier inputs as well. I like to save a buck when I can plus it was alot of
fun. Thanks