Transgo 4l60e high performance shift kit [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: Transgo 4l60e high performance shift kit


Dj Ethics
09-24-2009, 06:02 PM
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=TRG-4L60E-HD2

I'm planing on doing the Accumulator Piston, .490 Boost Valve, Corvette Servo, Filter and Gasket Kit, and Hardened Accumulator Spring!

I have read all the threads about this, I know about the possibilities of breaking other parts but I'm not planning on beating up my engine!

How important is it to also get the transgo shift kit? Also the transgo HD seperator plate and # 1 and 2 solenoids? Is it possible to do these mods without the shift kit, sperator plate and solenoids? Also should I get the 2-1/4" deep pan and filter?

Dj Ethics
09-28-2009, 09:54 PM
Ok so I ordered the following parts from oregon performance transmission:

Accumulator Piston

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=NTP-K51782E&Category_Code=4L60E

.490 Boost Valve
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=SNX-77898E-3K&Category_Code=4L60E

Corvette Servo

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_code=NTP-K51828C

Filter and Gasket Kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FILTER-GASKET-KIT-4L60E-4L60-E-TRANSMISSION-1998-UP-4x4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262 QQcategoryZ33727QQihZ008QQitemZ7938612622QQtcZphot o

Hardened Accumulator Spring

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700R4-4L60-4L60E-200-4R-SPRING-HARDER-1-2-SHIFT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el12 62QQcategoryZ33727QQihZ007QQitemZ8007016592QQtcZph oto

Do I need to order a shift kit with these parts? I'm assuming if I did get one I wouldn't need the one with the boost valve. Are some of the parts in this the same as what I already ordered...Here's a link thanks for any help.

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=SUP-K4L60E-L&Category_Code=4L60ESK

Africandude13
09-29-2009, 01:06 AM
I think thats all you need...
I did the springs and Pistons.
I havent had time to put the servo in yet and i was stupid and forgot
to order the boost valve.

But you will notice a huge difference in shifts with all of that.

do you have a PCM tune ?

Dj Ethics
09-29-2009, 03:52 PM
I'm planning the pcm tune for later this week...

I really need to know if I should order the shift kit or not?

It looks like there are a few things there that would help ie: oversized checkballs!

This valve body kit deals with these problems: Code 1870 Delayed engagements Slide bump 2nd & 3rd 3-4 clutch burn-up Help for worn plates Provides more lube oil Regular and Heavy duty applications Improves overall transmission performance Includes PWM Powervalve to correct code 1870 problems and still maintain normal computer strategy of the converter. Includes oversized checkballs to give new life to the original worn separator plate.

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=SUP-K4L60E-L&Category_Code=4L60ESK

ScarabEpic22
09-29-2009, 04:35 PM
I would recommend putting those parts in and calling it good. A tune will take care of the rest, I set all of mine up to ramp in the torque converter a lot different than stock and everyone loves the feel of it (plus it locks faster when you release then press the gas again).

Those parts will help you out nicely, I have all but the .490 boost valve. Couple it with my tune and my TB shifts really well, exactly how I want it to. Firm under light throttle, slightly firmer (bumps you) with med throttle, and at WOT it flat out throws you back in the seat. Lose traction on the 1-2 shift at 50mph...so no WOT shifts in the rain otherwise the rear end kicks out.

I flat out dont recommend anyone to do a shift kit by themselves unless they know how to do trans works. I messed my install up and eventually lost 4th gear and TCC lockup. Cost me 1k to get everything fixed (biggest single repair on my 02 in 7.5 years). Another member had a similar problem with his Transgo install. My trans shop said he wouldnt install a Transgo kit even if I brought it to him, he only uses Superior and hasnt had a single one come back. He specializes in GM stuff and rebuilds the 4L60E all the time.

Dj Ethics
09-29-2009, 11:20 PM
Ok thanks that's what I wanted to hear! All the parts should be in tomorrow or the next day and I'm trying to decide whether to have a mechanic buddy install or take it to a transmission/racing shop here in san diego...

Now that you said that I think I'll be calling this shop tomorrow for an appt. How many hours of work should it be?
http://www.jbaracing.com/

Africandude13
09-29-2009, 11:29 PM
Ok thanks that's what I wanted to hear! All the parts should be in tomorrow or the next day and I'm trying to decide whether to have a mechanic buddy install or take it to a transmission/racing shop here in san diego...

Now that you said that I think I'll be calling this shop tomorrow for an appt. How many hours of work should it be?
http://www.jbaracing.com/

you should be able to install the party you ordered by your self. Its pretty easy. The hardest part is the servo cus you have no room to work with in there!

ScarabEpic22
09-29-2009, 11:50 PM
you should be able to install the party you ordered by your self. Its pretty easy. The hardest part is the servo cus you have no room to work with in there!

:iagree: Its the shift kit that I say stay away from. I did the accumulator piston, servo, and some other tiny things and managed not to screw those up.

Dj Ethics
09-30-2009, 12:15 AM
I figured I could put all these parts in solo...anyone have a link to the correct way to do this?

Also has anyone replaced the forward sprag or solenoid 1 & 2 yet? I think I will just put in what I have now and then do those next fluid drain or when one goes out...if the sprag breaks then it's replaceable right?

Here's the link for the forward sprag:
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=NTP-51814B&Category_Code=4L60E

I found this for the boost valve: I'll be researching this as much as possible for the next two day's so any link's with pics would be appreciated!

What you'll need to accomplish the part swap is a GOOD long-nosed snap ring pliers of the correct size (the holes are about medium size -- consistent with any snap ring in the hardware store with about a 1/2-3/4" diameter -- if you want to size up the tool before you start), a smallish screwdriver (just in case you need to hold the valve in position while you get the snap ring in or out), a small light to see stuff, and sometimes a needle nose pliers helps.

Otherwise, it is very simple. Remove snap ring; remove old valve and spring; install spring on new valve; push back into bore; re-install snap ring. The valve is located in the front pump at the very front of the transmission case (directly inside the front edge of the gasket rail) and slightly to the left if you are laying under the transmission with your head toward the engine. It is up in its hole about 3/4" or so. The boost valve that comes out is just an aluminum plug with a small bump on it. Easy to see, easy to swap, except that once in a while you wish for another hand.

Also this by Africandude13:

Well......

I dropped the pan yesterday and did the Springs and accumulator pistons.
One of the pistons i got had the wrong size(Make sure you get the right year) hole so i didnt upgrade the 3-4 Accumulator piston or spring, but you really dont need to upgrade the 3-4.
Mainly just the 1-2 which is easy. The hardest part was dropping the pan.
I didnt really have time to do the servo and prob wont for a while cus im moving out of my house and off to college tomorrow,but when i do finally do it ill get pics

Changing out the springs and pistons are SUPER easy...
just put them back in exactly the same way they came out:D

Just drop the Pan and look for the big round thing toward the back passenger side of the valve body.
(top right of pic)
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/africandude13/TBlazer/photo-9.jpg

The Cylinder with the 59 on it in the pic is the 3-4 accml Piston
Some Fluid will leak out when out when you loosen the bolts so have the drain pan or a big towel to catch the fluid.

The Cylinder and old plastic piston
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/africandude13/TBlazer/photo-10.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/africandude13/TBlazer/photo-11.jpg

All Apart
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/africandude13/TBlazer/photo-12.jpg

Out with the old and In with the new !!
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/africandude13/TBlazer/photo-13.jpg

No Pain... No Glory...
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/africandude13/TBlazer/photo-14.jpg

BUT.......Most importantly !!! remember to put it ALL back in..I forgot one of the springs. only reaized it after the pan was back on and $40 worth of oil was put in.:hissy::hissy:


Soooo how did the shifts feel ????
I did feel a "slightly" firmer shift but nothing worth partying over.
I wasnt expecting it to be much firmer but i think its more for strength/reliability but together with the servo will be a nice upgrade.

Oh wow I just found these video's about doing the servo:

Removal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WpjGQnEixo

Reinstallation:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfPgBUH6Ru0

bigredtank
11-10-2010, 05:53 PM
just got my stuff in the mail should be doing it this weekend! thanks for the pictures and links!!!! im excited to see and feel the end result!

Steven420
11-11-2010, 06:59 AM
Pay attention when doing the Boost Valve. Theres a lower lip that i mistook for a snap ring groove, if you leave it there, no reverse and second slips... Once you get the ring started in the bore, use the old boost valve to push it into place. Be certain to push the boost valve as far up as it will go.
Steve

bigredtank
11-13-2010, 12:07 AM
Pay attention when doing the Boost Valve. Theres a lower lip that i mistook for a snap ring groove, if you leave it there, no reverse and second slips... Once you get the ring started in the bore, use the old boost valve to push it into place. Be certain to push the boost valve as far up as it will go.
Steve

I think my snap ring was too long! As much as I worked it I coulnt get it to go past the grove where the snap ring goes. U think I did something wrong? I'm telling u I worked the thing for about an hour and couldn't get it past the groves. So I just put the old one back on.

Steven420
11-14-2010, 08:51 AM
2 different boost valves for 4L60-E's. 1994-2004 are 1.907" long and the 2005+ are 1.810" long. You have a 2006 model trailblazer. You ordered or was sent the wrong boost valve.
Steve

bigredtank
11-15-2010, 11:11 AM
my trucks with the professionals now...:sadcry:... cant stop the bleeding! and dont know where its coming from! all those installs i did... something went wrong. worried if i did the servo and didnt do the boost valve if its gonna do something bad to the tranny.... im so scared!:duh::duh::duh::duh::duh:

Steven420
11-22-2010, 09:01 AM
my trucks with the professionals now...:sadcry:... cant stop the bleeding! and dont know where its coming from! all those installs i did... something went wrong. worried if i did the servo and didnt do the boost valve if its gonna do something bad to the tranny.... im so scared!:duh::duh::duh::duh::duh:you can do one without the other. you prolly just messed up a seal or pinched your gasket.