A Step-by-Step Viper 5901 Remote Starter & Alarm Installation Guide [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: A Step-by-Step Viper 5901 Remote Starter & Alarm Installation Guide


awer25
11-18-2009, 02:27 PM
Initial disclaimer: I am not a master installer, but a mere plebe looking to save money. While I’ve installed car audio components in the past, I had zero knowledge of remote starter systems before attempting this install. Everything I’ve learned was from lots and lots of Google searches, reading manuals, and PM’ing Trailvoy members (thanks MAY03LT and Green monster!). That said, please use this guide at your own risk. It’s not that complicated, but if you aren’t careful you can cripple your beloved Trailblazer/Envoy/Rainier/9-7x/Bravada/Ascender, etc. I will also be adding/modifying sections of this article in the coming days as more things come to mind (I did the whole install then wrote this up afterwards).

Second Disclaimer: This was installed on a 2005 Buick Rainier with OnStar, Bose, DIC, heated seats & mirrors, etc. I don’t know how other wiring harnesses are different. Please take the time to familiarize yourself with your own system.

For all of you that wanted the color Viper 5902 ($375), you should know that the internals are the same. Two different Viper reps confirmed that the only difference was the remote. Therefore, my plan is to install the 5901, then buy a 5902 remote (p/n 7941V) when they become cheaper and more readily available.

Here is a list of the parts I used (links are for information, not best prices – prices in parenthesis are what I paid after some research):
-Viper 5901 (http://www.amazon.com/Viper-5901-Responder-Two-Way-Security/dp/B001KYZEW4/) ($189)
-GM Interface Module (http://www.amazon.com/Xpresskit-DLPKGM-Transponder-Security-Interface/dp/B001MWRXT6/) (DLPKGM $45)
-506T Glass-break sensor (http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-506T-Audio-Sensor/dp/B000CJ24VM) ($10)
-507M Tilt sensor (http://www.amazon.com/Install-Essentials-507M-Tilt-Sensor/dp/B000GAYN3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1258571848&sr=8-1) ($25)
-520T Backup battery (http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-520T-Back-Up-Battery/dp/B000CIY5NS) ($10)
-2x 513T Mini piezo sirens (http://www.amazon.com/Install-Essentials-513T-Piezo-Siren/dp/B0009SUEX6) ($15/ea)
-998T Bitwriter (http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-998T-Bitwriter-Programmer/dp/B000CJ05ZE/) ($80 and completely optional - it just makes programming easier…version 2.6 is required)
-Heineken Beer Dispenser (http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/kegerators/mini_kegerators/B95+BeerTender.shtml) ($129 and totally necessary!)
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/DSC_2028.jpg
Tools:
-soldering gun w/ rosin core solder (preferably a 110V gun type – they are far superior). I got the Weller D550 200/260 watt (http://www.amazon.com/Weller-D550PK-120-volt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B00002N7S1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1258571955&sr=8-1).
-7mm & 10mm sockets w/ ratchet and extension
-Flashlight
-mini razor knife
-digital multimeter (and knowledge of its use)
-screwdrivers & pliers (needle-nose and regular)
-spools of heavy gauge wire (12ga) and, if going to rear brake light (you’ll read why later), regular wire (18ga)
-4-pin Bosch style relay
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2773.jpg
Time:
If it’s your first install – a lot. Give yourself a full day b/c from the time you cut the starter wire at the ignition harness until the time you finish, your car will not start... and likely you’ll realize you need something from the parts store in the middle of the install ;)

Now, the overall picture – The DLPKGM (or XK01, etc) acts as the go-between, handling commands between the Viper unit and your car. There are two ways to connect the Viper unit and the DLPKGM: a 4-wire serial connector that handles almost all inter-unit communications (“D2D”) or hardwiring each connection (“W2W”). The benefit of D2D is that from the DLPKGM, you only have to connect two wires to your car and two to the Viper. W2W requires 10 (same 2 to the car, and 8 to the Viper). As you can see, the D2D cable takes the place of 6 wires. The drawback is that problems are harder to diagnose b/c most commands travel over the same wires. Also, a Viper installer I met explained that DEI just sent them a new batch of D2D wires. Apparently they switched the order of the wires in the cable. I'll post the correct order next time I go work on it.

Installation Manuals – READ THESE BEFORE INSTALLING!
-Viper 5901
-DLPKGM (also supplemental Trailvoy doc)
Alternatively, you can use the cheaper XK01 ($15). Both modules are made by Xpresskit (a brand of DEI), the DLPKGM is just a more feature-rich model. The main benefits to the DLPKGM are that it auto-programs itself and it automatically turns on the heated seats, rear defog, etc when the outside temp is <32*F. The manual for the XK01 is here. (They also make a CANMAX400 for newer CAN models, which goes for around $100)
-Extra accessory manuals come with the part.

Step 1 – Read the manuals. Read the manuals. Read the manuals. They are written for experienced installers, so make sure you have a basic understanding of what it's saying.
Step 2 – Familiarize yourself. Spread everything out and familiarize yourself with the playing field. Also, I marked the smaller white connectors with a black felt-tipped marker so as to keep track of what they went to.
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/DSC_2040.jpg
Step 3 – Set parking light polarity. Open the top access panel on the main Viper control unit and insert the red fuse into the middle and rear connectors for a negative-polarity signal to the parking lights.
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/DSC_2031.jpg
Step 4 – Change jumpers. *D2D = Horizontal. W2W = Vertical.* Check the two jumpers on the back of the Viper and rotate them 90 degrees if need be (see p.31 of Viper install manual for more info).
Step 5 – Wiring.
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/DSC_2037.jpg

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2778.jpg

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2782.jpg
Solder the initial connections between the Viper control unit (“Viper”), the DLPKGM (“Module”), and the additional sensors (hereafter noted by their part number). The Viper has 6 harnesses – H1, H2, H3, R/S IN, R/S OUT (R/S = remote start), & Door Lock. I soldered all ground wires to a common 12ga wire that I grounded behind a washer against the steering column (“common ground”). I also soldered all 12V Constant inputs to one of two places, 12V Const. from 520T Battery Output gray wire (“12V Batt”) or 12V Const. from the Ignition Harness (red “B5” wire)

For my setup, the wiring is below. N/A means the wire was taped off and not used. If it seems an important feature has a “N/A” next to it, it’s b/c the bypass module likely is already controlling that.
• Viper connections
PRIMARY HARNESS
o H1/1 Red/Wh (-) Trunk Release Out N/A
o H1/2 Red (+) 12V Constant In to 12V Batt
o H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Out to red of sirens (3x - main & two piezos)
o H1/4 White/Br Light Flash Iso N/A
o H1/5 Black (-) Ground to common ground
o H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger N/A
o H1/7 Blue (-) Instant Trigger to Blue @ 507M and 520T
o H1/8 Green (-) Door Trigger Input to Bypass Module
o H1/9 Black/White (-) Dome Light Out N/A
o H1/10 White/Blue (-) Remote Start N/A
o H1/11 White Parking Light Out N/A
o H1/12 Orange (-) Ground-When-Armed (GWA) Output to 507M Orange GWA
AUX HARNESS
o H2/1 Lt. Green/Blk (-) Factory Disarm Out N/A
o H2/2 Lt. Green/Wh (-) Factory Arm Out N/A
o H2/3 White/Vio Aux 1 Out
o H2/4 Violet/Blk Aux 2 Out
o H2/5 White/Blk Aux 3 Out
o H2/6 Lt. Blue 2nd Unlock Out
o H2/7 Gray/Blk Wait-to-Start (diesel only) N/A
o H2/8 Brown/Blk Factory Horn Out (Optional) to Ignition Harness (“IGN”) D4 (horn relay control)
Heavy-Duty Harness – Letter/number designations refer to GM’s pin numbering system on the steering column ignition harness (see diagrams in 3rd post). You unplug it by unscrewing the 7mm hex-head bolt. As the bolt comes out, it pulls out the plug so go slowly and wiggle it with your hand. Also, the only wire you completely sever at IGN is C1 Yellow “Crank Voltage” starter wire. It's important to solder these connections (and preferable to solder all connections) as they carry a lot of current. T-taps, crimp connectors, and the "twist-n-tape" method won't cut it here.

Here is the proper way to prep the factory wire for soldering. Use the mini razor knife to cut a ring around a wire, then do the same 3/4" down the wire. Slice up between the two rings and then peel away 3/4" of insulation. It doesn't take much pressure to cut the insulation. Don't mess them up, you only have 1 ignition harness ;)
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2774.jpg

o H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Out & Ign 1 input sense to IGN C6 (Pink) AND DKPLGM Pink
o H3/2 Red/Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 Red/Wh
o H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange
o H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 (harness side of cut wire)
o H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 (key side of cut wire)
o H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (12V constant)
o H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 Pink/Wh
o H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o H3/9 Red/Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red
o H3/10 N/C
o Additional Relay needed for ACC 2. Splice into the following:
* Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)

Continued in next post.

awer25
11-18-2009, 02:27 PM
CONTINUED
R/S In
o 1 Black/Wh (-) Neutral Safety Switch In to common ground (does not bypass NSS)
o 2 Violet/Wh Tach In to Module Violet/Wh Tach Out
o 3 Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Wire to Brake Switch White (above pedal). Getting to this wire is THE most difficult part of the process! I still haven’t gotten to this connection, but I’m actually thinking of running an 18ga wire from the 3rd brakelight b/c I can’t get to the petal switch.
o 4 Gray (-) Hood Pin Switch to Hood Pin Switch. See pic for location.
o 5 Blue/Wh Rear Defog Out N/A
R/S Aux Out
o 1 N/A
o 2 N/A
o 3 N/A
o 4 N/A
o 5 N/A
Door Lock
o 1 N/A
o 2 N/A
o 3 N/A
It can get quite messy...
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/DSC_2038.jpg

Wiring for other modules (many connections are repeated from above, but done so for completeness)
• DKPLGM Module
o Violet/White TACH out to Violet White TACH IN (Viper module, R/S IN #2)
o Green DOOR TRIGGER out (-) to Green DOOR TRIGGER in (Viper module, H1/8)
o Purple to OBD-II port, pin #2 (also purple)
o Pink to IGN C6 Pink
• 506T Glass sensor
o Plug 4-pin connector into Viper external sensor port. It is white and located next to the H3 harness connector. In the manual, it’s setup option #2.

• 507M Tilt Sensor
o Red to Gray at 520T battery module (12V Const.)
o Orange to Viper H1/12 Orange (-) Ground When Armed (GWA) Out. This is important for the sensor to re-zero itself with its current angle of repose every time you arm the system.
o Blue to Viper H1/7 Blue instant trigger
• 520T Battery Control Module
o Blue to same location as 507M blue
o Red/Black connector to Battery
o Black to common ground
o Red to B5
o Gray to all connections to 12V Batt.
• Main siren and both 513T Piezo’s
o 3x Red (+) to Viper H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Out
o 3x Black (-) to common ground
Step 6 – Install the antenna. Just use the double-stick tape and put it up behind your rear-view mirror. Push the wire up into the headliner, then down the plastic column next to the windshield. It then drops down below the dash.
Step 7 – Install the siren and hood pin switch. Pretty self explanatory...see pic for my locations. The hood pin has to compress just enough so that the metal tip on the bottom of the sliding pin (+) doesn't make contact with the body of the switch (-) when the hood is closed. As for the siren, just don't point it upwards where it can collect water. In the location I have it, it's very loud.
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2780.jpg

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2781.jpg
Step 8 – Program the remotes to the Viper unit. Correct instructions are in a separate paper in the top of the box, which note that the instructions in the manual are incomplete.
Step 9 – Program DLPKGM module. The instructions on the Trailblazer addendum are incomplete if using a D2D connection. The module instructions added an important step, so start with that. Despite having no warning, the alarm WILL come on during step 6, so don’t do like me and program it in a residential neighborhood at 3am. Just ignore the alarm and finish step 7 – it’s only a few secs more. The process is:
1. Unplug both cables from the Module, but have the other end of the D2D plugged into the Viper unit and the other harness wired up completely.
2. Press and hold the program button next to the connectors on the Module itself.
3. While holding the button plug in the D2D cable. The LED should turn on and stay solid.
4. While still holding the button plug in the other harness.
5. While still holding the button press the LOCK button on an already-programmed remote.
6. While still holding the button turn the key to ON (not Start). The LED in the top of the Module will blink rapidly.
7. Release the button. Turn the key to START and start the car.
8. Test the lock/unlock buttons.
Step 10 – Customize the Viper unit. Instructions are in the manual. Only required step is to change the transmission from Manual (default) to Automatic.
Step 11 – Learn the Tach. Start the car, and within 5 seconds press and hold the Valet switch (button is in the antenna). LED is learned when it comes on solid (~3 secs).

Misc. notes
1. At the ignition harness, I first thought I had two orange wires. In the reflected light under the dash, the Pink wire (IGN C6) looked orange. I was scratching my head and looking at Google for 15min until I actually pulled the harness into the sunlight and saw that it was in fact pink.
2. Same idea with the IGN C5 White wire. Mine was light yellow – I couldn’t tell if it was aging or in fact that color. Nonetheless, the C5 wire is in fact the white wire mentioned. It was lighter than the starter wire yellow.
3. I was too excited upon finishing and forgot to program the DLPKGM. When I did, I initially followed the Trailvoy addendum’s instructions, thinking they were more accurate. When I locked the doors, the system would arm/disarm but the doors wouldn’t lock/unlock. I couldn’t figure out the problem. Later, I saw that those instructions were for non-D2D setups. For D2D, you have to add the lock -by-remote step so it learns the Viper unit’s signal.

Special thanks to May03Lt, Green Monster, and everyone else who helped with both my initial questions and post-install troubleshooting!

awer25
11-18-2009, 02:31 PM
Pics of my ignition harness...

Right side:
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IMG_2771-2.jpg

Left side:
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/1.jpg

Trailblazer/Envoy/Rainier/9-7x/Bravada/Ascender Ignition Wiring Diagrams (courtesy of MAY03LT)

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/MAY03LT/awer1.gif

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/MAY03LT/awer2.gif

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/MAY03LT/awer3.gif

MAY03LT
11-18-2009, 02:55 PM
Very nice.:hail:

GavinVoy
11-18-2009, 06:18 PM
bookmarked :thumbsup:

MikeNRA
11-18-2009, 07:41 PM
Nice writeup... Just installed the 5301... My last problem is the white parking light connection keeps blowing my parking light fuse..:hissy:

awer25
11-18-2009, 08:13 PM
Nice writeup... Just installed the 5301... My last problem is the white parking light connection keeps blowing my parking light fuse..:hissy:

Strange...have you tried using a relay to power the parking lights? I assume it's the standard GM circuit/fuse with nothing added? Also, what bypass module are you using?

Lastly, have you correctly set the light flash polarity? It's (-) on the TVs.

MikeNRA
11-18-2009, 08:18 PM
Strange...have you tried using a relay to power the parking lights? I assume it's the standard GM circuit/fuse with nothing added? Also, what bypass module are you using?

Lastly, have you correctly set the light flash polarity? It's (-) on the TVs.

Polarity is correct... Its a standard GM circuit, all have added to it is a illuminated cluster overlay, very low voltage. im using the idatalink ads dlsl gm1

awer25
11-18-2009, 08:31 PM
Polarity is correct... Its a standard GM circuit, all have added to it is a illuminated cluster overlay, very low voltage. im using the idatalink ads dlsl gm1

This idea more applies to larger appliances, but if you use a wire that's too small of a gauge, it can cause heat to build up and the heat makes the circuit suck even more current...so sometimes even using the same gauge wire as before but in a longer run can draw more amperage and pop a fuse. Where are you connecting the white wire too?

I feel kinda stumped too ;)

MikeNRA
11-18-2009, 08:37 PM
This idea more applies to larger appliances, but if you use a wire that's too small of a gauge, it can cause heat to build up and the heat makes the circuit suck even more current...so sometimes even using the same gauge wire as before but in a longer run can draw more amperage and pop a fuse. Where are you connecting the white wire too?

I feel kinda stumped too ;)

Im attaching to an 18G line I ran from the brown drivers side parking light pos a few weeks ago. Im going to redo the line, eliminate the overlay and see what happens... If anything I can run the overlay off the relay I put in for my HID's...:suicide:

sarab074
11-18-2009, 11:55 PM
great job

:thx

GavinVoy
11-19-2009, 01:03 AM
so does this model really have a 1 mile range?

awer25
11-19-2009, 01:34 AM
so does this model really have a 1 mile range?

It definitely goes pretty far - today it worked 7 blocks away in through downtown Atlanta (car was in a parking deck too). I think the mile range is only line of sight.

awer25
11-22-2009, 02:35 PM
The EDIT button on the original posts went away, so I guess I just have to add a new post regarding what wire to use for the brake shutoff...

R/S In 3 - Brown brake shutdown wire. The best location for me to connect to was Pin B on the Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher module. The module is attached to the large black plastic cover under the dash. Below is a diagram and pics...

In the diagram, you're looking from the point of view of the female side of the connector, so it's mirrored from the pics.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/MAY03LT/awer5.gif

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/brake1.jpg

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/brake2.jpg

bmntrailblzr
11-25-2009, 10:52 PM
not to be an ass but doesnt any one solder all connections? anymore?

MikeNRA
11-25-2009, 11:04 PM
not to be an ass but doesnt any one solder all connections? anymore?

Always:crazy:

awer25
11-25-2009, 11:06 PM
not to be an ass but doesnt any one solder all connections? anymore?

Wow. Did you even read the 1st post? I stressed the importance of soldering and soldered every connection but a couple of hard-to-reach ones like the brake wire in the last post where I used the T-tap. T-taps are fine for small gauge wire if you use the right size, especially when it's only sensing 12V and not actually transferring much current.

I believe the above bolded quote was:

It's important to solder these connections (and preferable to solder all connections) as they carry a lot of current. T-taps, crimp connectors, and the "twist-n-tape" method won't cut it here.

irocz28355
11-26-2009, 02:36 AM
Wow good job!!

Elevatorguy
11-26-2009, 08:38 AM
These are more expensive and harder to find, but, next to soldering each connection individually (which I prefer), are the best non-solder connectors available. The Posi-Tap would be perfect for the connection that you used a scotch-lok for.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

awer25
11-26-2009, 02:28 PM
Those do look nifty but more expensive...I like the 25pc scotch-lok boxes for $1 at Harbor Freight (I have no idea what the official name is, so I'll use your nomenclature lol)

bmntrailblzr
11-26-2009, 07:32 PM
im sorry dude but i never have a problem with the brake wire, can find it at the ignition and i solder all connections sorry for mix up, but good job for correcting me

awer25
11-26-2009, 10:59 PM
im sorry dude but i never have a problem with the brake wire, can find it at the ignition and i solder all connections sorry for mix up, but good job for correcting me

If it's at the ignition harness then I stand corrected for making it seem harder than it is ;) All the diagrams from the12volt.com say to use the white wire above the brake pedal. I was able to get to it at the location noted above, but I don't see where it's part of the ignition harness. What pin # is it?

djarmy2004
11-30-2009, 02:14 PM
Well since you have an 05 Rainer 2wd i bought the same sensors and what not since my tb is an 05. But installation is a bite in the ass. I got quoted 200 and thats the cheapest ive found yet. Hopefully i can find something a bit better before i get home

-mg-
12-02-2009, 02:23 AM
Awesome write up, thanks!

I don't suppose you came across any info mentioning how the install might differ in a 9-7x? I've been wanting to do this for a while, but my assumption is I'll run into a number of differences since the ignition switch is in the center console. I'm curious if the ignition switch wire bundle just has longer wires to reach the center console, or if they actually bundled the various steering column wires differently.

awer25
12-02-2009, 10:23 AM
Awesome write up, thanks!

I don't suppose you came across any info mentioning how the install might differ in a 9-7x? I've been wanting to do this for a while, but my assumption is I'll run into a number of differences since the ignition switch is in the center console. I'm curious if the ignition switch wire bundle just has longer wires to reach the center console, or if they actually bundled the various steering column wires differently.

The best thing to do would be to take a look and see if it's the same. Get out your multimeter and check each of the heavy-gauge ones. IIRC, of the heavy-gauge wires only B5 and D2 are 12V constant. One click of the key switch (ACC) should power up D1 ACC 1 (but not B6 ACC 2). Another click of the key switch (RUN) should send power to C5, C6, and B6. START will send power to C1.

That's really the best way - just check what they do with the key switch. If the colors and plug match up and they behave similarly, then I'd say it's the same system.

BTW, I just Googled the 9-7x to see what you meant. I never knew they put the key switch in the TV cupholder...weird. It's got to be a bit awkward I bet.

awer25
12-06-2009, 03:13 PM
Awesome write up, thanks!

I don't suppose you came across any info mentioning how the install might differ in a 9-7x? I've been wanting to do this for a while, but my assumption is I'll run into a number of differences since the ignition switch is in the center console. I'm curious if the ignition switch wire bundle just has longer wires to reach the center console, or if they actually bundled the various steering column wires differently.

Any updates on the 9-7x wiring harness? I'm kinda curious to know if its different or just relocated.

greekhawk84
12-19-2009, 02:32 PM
I have A 2002 Chevrolet Silverado. I went to program the bypass. It says that you press and hold the button and the led will flash 3 times but it never flashes. Also the key fob will not pair with the alarm/remote system.
And I can start the truck with the key but I dont have any rpm's or fuel guage activity. Can anyone help??:bonk:

awer25
12-19-2009, 08:19 PM
I have A 2002 Chevrolet Silverado. I went to program the bypass. It says that you press and hold the button and the led will flash 3 times but it never flashes. Also the key fob will not pair with the alarm/remote system.
And I can start the truck with the key but I dont have any rpm's or fuel guage activity. Can anyone help??:bonk:

What model starter/bypass do you have? Generally, you have to hold the bypass button while plugging in the plugs in a certain order (power then data) outlined in the manual...

-mg-
12-19-2009, 10:03 PM
Any updates on the 9-7x wiring harness? I'm kinda curious to know if its different or just relocated.

I should be opening things up in the coming week to have a look. I just got an AutoPage RSTKE-900 R/S unit, and have an ADS-AL-CA bypass in the mail heading my way. :woot:

greekhawk84
12-21-2009, 01:53 PM
I have a xpresskit model xk06 bypass and I have a viper 5901 alarm/start system.

awer25
12-21-2009, 01:58 PM
I have a xpresskit model xk06 bypass and I have a viper 5901 alarm/start system.

According to the website, it comes with PKG7 firmware by default, but you need PLXR 3.0. See if any local shops will reprogram it, or just get the more feature-rich XK01 from ebay for ~$15. You need the AMDL 6.00 firmware on that, but it's the default firmware so you should be set with any brand new one.

ariclp
12-23-2009, 09:29 PM
I just installed a ultra start 4295 remote start. And was wondering how do you hook up more than on acc wire in the ing. harness?

I used the brown one which is the one that worked when the heat is on. But i seen something in your write up about a relay or something could you tell me the parts your used ... Or where i could go on the net to see something about it.. I used the int-sl bypass module. It start and works but all the lights stay on in the dash if i dont shut it down before i put my key in.. I am sure it has something to do with the first acc wire that i did not hook up

awer25
12-24-2009, 02:08 AM
I just installed a ultra start 4295 remote start. And was wondering how do you hook up more than on acc wire in the ing. harness?

I used the brown one which is the one that worked when the heat is on. But i seen something in your write up about a relay or something could you tell me the parts your used ... Or where i could go on the net to see something about it.. I used the int-sl bypass module. It start and works but all the lights stay on in the dash if i dont shut it down before i put my key in.. I am sure it has something to do with the first acc wire that i did not hook up

Basically there is one ACC output from the remote starter, but two wires that need ACC power - the orange and brown wires. You could say "I'll just run the ACC out to both", but that wouldn't work b/c then you're also bridging the orange and brown wires together. This is where the relay comes in. A relay (and I hope I'm not being to simplistic for you) lets you send power to a wire through a switch that's "turned on" by a third wire. In your setup, you sent ACC power to the brown wire. Now, we want to use that circuit to "flip the switch" and send power from a 12V constant source to the orange wire. That way, it's being powered from an independent source, but only when the brown wire is getting power.

You need a "Bosch-style" SPDT relay (30 Amp or 40 Amp is ok). It should have 4 pins at the bottom, numbered 30, 85, 86, and 87a. Some have a 5th pin, #87, but you don't need that one. It's a standard numbering system, so once you have the relay, use the wiring guide above. The only difference is that you'll flip the brown and orange wires since I sent the original ACC power to the orange wire and you sent it to the brown.

The relay can be purchased at any auto parts store for around $5. It looks like this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/n00_01aw.jpg

ariclp
12-26-2009, 12:17 PM
thank you i will try this...:hail:

awer25
12-27-2009, 12:56 PM
Here's new diagram links to replace the removed ones above...

Ignition harness wiring:

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IgnitionHarness1.gif

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IgnitionHarness2.gif

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/IgnitionHarness3.gif

Brake/Flasher relay (to get to the brake shutdown wire easier, you can use wire B/Circuit 17)

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af121/awer26/brakeconnectorunderdash.gif

skwirl
12-28-2009, 11:25 PM
Ordered my 5901 today..plan on installing in a couple weeks...
Have a quick question..

I understand how the DLPKGM activates heated seats at 32F..would it be possible to connect one of the aux outputs from the 5901 through a relay to the output wire of the DLPKGM for the heated seats and be able to activate them with the remote?

Any advice would be appreciated...
-David

awer25
12-28-2009, 11:31 PM
Ordered my 5901 today..plan on installing in a couple weeks...
Have a quick question..

I understand how the DLPKGM activates heated seats at 32F..would it be possible to connect one of the aux outputs from the 5901 through a relay to the output wire of the DLPKGM for the heated seats and be able to activate them with the remote?

Any advice would be appreciated...
-David

It wouldn't work through the DLPKGM b/c it tells the car to turn on the seats through the ODB-II wire, which also sends a ton of other data. I'm 99% sure that it would work if you sent a pulsed output to the wire that the heater button activates on the door (pretty much just bypassing the button press). I actually was going to do the same thing but got too excited once it was working to add anything else...and now I'm just too lazy :dielaugh:

If you do this, please post what wires you used b/c I don't have the schematics for it but would love to do it too :D

GavinVoy
12-28-2009, 11:34 PM
congrats on being stickied :D

skwirl
12-28-2009, 11:38 PM
Yeah thats pretty close to what I was thinking..but without everything in front of me its hard to tell...

I will definitely let you know what I come up with..thanks...
Oh and get ready for some pm's as questions come up during my installation, its been a while..lol...

-David

awer25
12-29-2009, 12:00 AM
congrats on being stickied :D

Thanks :D

Yeah thats pretty close to what I was thinking..but without everything in front of me its hard to tell...

I will definitely let you know what I come up with..thanks...
Oh and get ready for some pm's as questions come up during my installation, its been a while..lol...

-David

No problem, hope I can help!

Chevy-TB-lover
01-04-2010, 12:43 PM
Hey nice install!! How long did it take you?

awer25
01-04-2010, 03:07 PM
Hey nice install!! How long did it take you?

The actual install was probably around 3-4 hours, although if I did it again it would probably be closer to 2. I spent a lot more time learning how the system works than actually installing it lol.

TurboJuice
01-04-2010, 07:17 PM
Does anyone know what the best firmware is for the xpresskit xk01 bypass?

awer25
01-05-2010, 01:37 AM
Does anyone know what the best firmware is for the xpresskit xk01 bypass?

AMDL 6.00, which is the default firmware for new ones.

TurboJuice
01-08-2010, 01:39 PM
Is the install of the XK01 module the same as the DLPKGM?

I have the XK01 but I dont think i have a D2D wire? was it suppsed to come with my kit, or is the XK01 W2W only?

awer25
01-08-2010, 02:01 PM
Is the install of the XK01 module the same as the DLPKGM?

I have the XK01 but I dont think i have a D2D wire? was it suppsed to come with my kit, or is the XK01 W2W only?

IDK if the wiring is the same, so I'd follow the XK01 installation manual (http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1055). As for the D2D cable, the XK01 doesn't come with one for some reason and they're not easy to get. The only place I know that advertises them is here (http://infiniteelectronix.com/directedalarmxkd2d65d2dcableforxkandd2dalarminterf aceboxesgmgeneralmotors.aspx). Also, I don't know the exact details, but DEI recently changed the D2D wire order, so that could be another issue if you get an old cable. That was one of the reasons I went with the DLPKGM which includes one.

Kirby Baker
02-05-2010, 09:07 AM
Great writeup! I was about to pull the trigger on all this, but went to amazon and the 5901 is no longer listed. Is there an equivalent? Python model? What else should I be looking for if I dont want to spend the $400 on the newer model with color remote?

And more importantly, the beer dispenser is discontinued! :(

awer25
02-05-2010, 10:14 AM
Great writeup! I was about to pull the trigger on all this, but went to amazon and the 5901 is no longer listed. Is there an equivalent? Python model? What else should I be looking for if I dont want to spend the $400 on the newer model with color remote?

And more importantly, the beer dispenser is discontinued! :(

There is an equivalent, but I forget which it is. You can get the 5901 for $220 on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-Viper-5901-LC3-2-Way-Alarm-and-Remote-Starter_W0QQitemZ260544851665QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH _DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca9aeeed1), minus some $ for certain cashback programs (Bing is 10% (http://www.cashbackr.com/cashback) back and MrRebates.com is 3% (http://www.mrrebates.com/search_stores.asp?k=eBay&g_search_option=S)) which would make it closer to $190.

schooner
02-05-2010, 01:09 PM
One safety note that I just thought I would throw in for first time installers and weekend warriors like myself (I didn't see it mentionned anywhere)... don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start fiddeling with the ingnition harness. Just disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and secure it away from the battery... it only takes a second and then you are safe to play without risk to yourself or your vehicle.

I applogize to the experienced installers because I know some are quite comfortable even with installing on a live system... but I think that for newbs like me it's one of those things that could be easily overlooked.

I am going to be installing a prostart /w an XK01 in my TB this weekend and am actually kinda looking forward to it. It seems really straightforward to me thanks to the excellent diagrams I found here(:thx). I can't believe how far these interface modules have come. Seems like pretty soon you'll be able to buy a 'plug and play' (or as I like to call it 'plug and pray') kit.

I am surprised that no one has come out with adapter kits like they have for after market stereos. I guess the starter manufacturers need to standardize their connections first. Just a matter of time I think.

schooner
02-05-2010, 01:17 PM
IDK if the wiring is the same, so I'd follow the XK01 installation manual (http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1055). As for the D2D cable, the XK01 doesn't come with one for some reason and they're not easy to get. The only place I know that advertises them is here (http://infiniteelectronix.com/directedalarmxkd2d65d2dcableforxkandd2dalarminterf aceboxesgmgeneralmotors.aspx). Also, I don't know the exact details, but DEI recently changed the D2D wire order, so that could be another issue if you get an old cable. That was one of the reasons I went with the DLPKGM which includes one.

That's odd because my XK01 came with two D2D cables... I assume for two different types of connectors for different starters. I bought mine from an install shop though and it didn't come in a regular retail box (just a plain black box with a label on it) so maybe that's why.

schooner
02-05-2010, 01:21 PM
One other thing... always check online for the latest manuals for your equipment. The booklet that came with my XK01 was out of date and hade some wire colours mixed up.

awer25
02-05-2010, 03:32 PM
That's odd because my XK01 came with two D2D cables... I assume for two different types of connectors for different starters. I bought mine from an install shop though and it didn't come in a regular retail box (just a plain black box with a label on it) so maybe that's why.

That was definitely nice of the shop to throw one in - the retail XK01 doesn't include one and it's not the easiest thing to find. I'm not sure why they gave you two...lol

Also, good point on the battery. Experienced or not, it takes a few secs and potentially saves a lot of headache.

Elevatorguy
02-06-2010, 05:15 AM
I can't believe how far these interface modules have come. Seems like pretty soon you'll be able to buy a 'plug and play' (or as I like to call it 'plug and pray') kit.

I am surprised that no one has come out with adapter kits like they have for after market stereos. I guess the starter manufacturers need to standardize their connections first. Just a matter of time I think.

Already out for newer Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTwSWYHjhyo

6spdcoupe
02-23-2010, 01:24 AM
XK01s do come with the D2D wire included. Perhaps some etailers are pulling them to turn a bit more coin on the back end.

Excellent write up and a pretty clean job for a DIY'er. Hats off to you sir ! Now just get the install to under 45mins and I'll offer you a job ! :)

6spdcoupe
02-23-2010, 01:27 AM
One safety note that I just thought I would throw in for first time installers and weekend warriors like myself (I didn't see it mentionned anywhere)... don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start fiddeling with the ingnition harness. Just disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and secure it away from the battery... it only takes a second and then you are safe to play without risk to yourself or your vehicle.

I applogize to the experienced installers because I know some are quite comfortable even with installing on a live system... but I think that for newbs like me it's one of those things that could be easily overlooked.




No apologies needed, but I would advise against disconnecting the battery terminal. A DMM is not very productive with no power to read. ;) If you feel safer with some things having the battery off, that is fine, but with this it really is needed for probing wires. Never, ever trust any source for wiring info and Always check prior to proceeding.

04goldenvoy
03-01-2010, 04:15 PM
Hi first off i have a 04 Envoy 4.2L. i purchased the 5901 to install. i have done alarm/remote starters in the past. My main question is about the relay...do i need it? i don't think there is even a accessory 2 in the 04 Envoy. atleast that's what bulldogsecurity.com's site shows -N/A. but they also show no accessory 2 for the rainer also....im confused. please help

awer25
03-01-2010, 05:29 PM
Hi first off i have a 04 Envoy 4.2L. i purchased the 5901 to install. i have done alarm/remote starters in the past. My main question is about the relay...do i need it? i don't think there is even a accessory 2 in the 04 Envoy. atleast that's what bulldogsecurity.com's site shows -N/A. but they also show no accessory 2 for the rainer also....im confused. please help

There are two accessory wires, and you do need the relay. The ACC wires are Orange and Brown. To be sure, double check while you're down there but I'm 99.9% sure you have two (and thus need a relay).

wanderson75
03-06-2010, 06:33 PM
I'm in the process of installing a 5701 in a 2004 Envoy. I've got a question regarding the steps listed here. So far everything has been going smooth, but I'm at the point of connecting the H3/7 Pink/Wh to the IGN C5. In the instructions, it's listed as a Pink/Wh wire. However, it is listed later as a White wire. But, the C6 wire is Pink in color and listed as Ignition 1 in the diagrams, whereas the C5 wire is listed as Off/Run/Crank Voltage.

So do I connect H3/7 to C5? Or C6?

Many thanks!

awer25
03-06-2010, 06:57 PM
I'm in the process of installing a 5701 in a 2004 Envoy. I've got a question regarding the steps listed here. So far everything has been going smooth, but I'm at the point of connecting the H3/7 Pink/Wh to the IGN C5. In the instructions, it's listed as a Pink/Wh wire. However, it is listed later as a White wire. But, the C6 wire is Pink in color and listed as Ignition 1 in the diagrams, whereas the C5 wire is listed as Off/Run/Crank Voltage.

So do I connect H3/7 to C5? Or C6?

Many thanks!

Oops - too much copy/paste going on, thanks for catching that. H3/7 goes to C5 (ignition 2), which is white not pink/wh (in my case C5 was yellowish, but whatever)

wanderson75
03-06-2010, 07:03 PM
no.. .TY! saved me a headache LOL

04DetroitLS
03-07-2010, 06:25 PM
Viper 5701
followed the instructions here and in the manual, the remote start does ot want to work, you can hear the relay clicking, but it does not want to turn the vehicle over
Doors lock unlock properly
Hood pin triggers alarm
thats as far as we've gotten into testing it...

awer25
03-07-2010, 10:46 PM
Viper 5701
followed the instructions here and in the manual, the remote start does ot want to work, you can hear the relay clicking, but it does not want to turn the vehicle over
Doors lock unlock properly
Hood pin triggers alarm
thats as far as we've gotten into testing it...

Quite a few people have had this problem initially, myself included. For me, it was an issue with the wait-to-start settings.

04DetroitLS
03-07-2010, 11:13 PM
the only bitwriter i could getmy hands on was a v2.0 :P
So we're (Wanderson and myself) are trying to program it manually,
When we hit the RS button on the FOB, we can hear 7 clicks in the relay, leading me to believe that its stuck in manual mode.... we've tried the "easy steps" to switching to auto mode, but no luck there, what'd you have to do to get it past the wait to start issue?

Also is it supposed to roll the windows up when the doors lock too? or is that an add on?

awer25
03-07-2010, 11:49 PM
the only bitwriter i could getmy hands on was a v2.0 :P
So we're (Wanderson and myself) are trying to program it manually,
When we hit the RS button on the FOB, we can hear 7 clicks in the relay, leading me to believe that its stuck in manual mode.... we've tried the "easy steps" to switching to auto mode, but no luck there, what'd you have to do to get it past the wait to start issue?

Also is it supposed to roll the windows up when the doors lock too? or is that an add on?

IIRC, I changed the "Diesel Start Delay" to something other than the default "wait for input" (see pg. 43 of the manual).

kizzmyss
03-21-2010, 08:32 PM
the only bitwriter i could getmy hands on was a v2.0 :P
So we're (Wanderson and myself) are trying to program it manually,
When we hit the RS button on the FOB, we can hear 7 clicks in the relay, leading me to believe that its stuck in manual mode....

Any update on this? Same issue for me as well on a 5701...7 clicks of the relay, but no start. Also will not start with the key.

s3customs
03-21-2010, 09:40 PM
If your programing without a bitriter hook up the siren or horn because its hard to do by just looking at the led. you have to switch menus really fast after the light flashes and if you wait to long it will jump to the next menu, lot easier if you go by the honk or chirp. i ran into this alot when we started installing the 5xxx series starters. hope this helps

kizzmyss
03-21-2010, 10:24 PM
I've always had access to a Bitwriter in the past, but couldn't get my hands on the usual one today. After screwing up the menus 3x and surely annoying the neighbors, I marched inside to order one of my own! :p

s3customs
03-21-2010, 10:30 PM
Its probably jumping to menu 1 thats what i ran into if you waited more than a sec after the 3rd flash.

kizzmyss
03-24-2010, 10:28 AM
I purchased a Bitwriter and got into the menus a bit yesterday. After getting menu 3 options set-up correctly for my vehicle, I have made some progress. I can now remote start with the key in the "On" position, but not at rest or with the key removed. Leads me to believe I need to recheck all of my H3 connections and the bypass.

FWIW, I'm using the Idatalink ADS-DLSL GM1 in W2W. Due to having a SS, I also had to hardwire the tach wire to the cluster. Any reason I should move it to the ECM or the coil?

awer25
03-24-2010, 10:52 AM
I purchased a Bitwriter and got into the menus a bit yesterday. After getting menu 3 options set-up correctly for my vehicle, I have made some progress. I can now remote start with the key in the "On" position, but not at rest or with the key removed. Leads me to believe I need to recheck all of my H3 connections and the bypass.

FWIW, I'm using the Idatalink ADS-DLSL GM1 in W2W. Due to having a SS, I also had to hardwire the tach wire to the cluster. Any reason I should move it to the ECM or the coil?

Definitely the H3 harness...it could be the ACC wires - did you install the relay properly so the orange and brown wires get current?

kizzmyss
03-24-2010, 01:17 PM
Definitely the H3 harness...it could be the ACC wires - did you install the relay properly so the orange and brown wires get current?

I did install the relay and will double-check the connections when I get home tonight. I'll post them up in case I overlooked something racing to finish before the rain hit us on Sunday! :D

kizzmyss
03-24-2010, 09:06 PM
OK, here are my H3 and relay connections (along with DMM readings):

o H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Pink to IGN C6 & Bypass Pink (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/2 Red/Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 Red/Wh (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 Harness Side (DMM: 0V unless remote started w/ key in ignition)
o H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 Key Side (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 White (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o H3/9 Red/Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o Relay:

* Pin 85 – from H3/3 & IGN D1 Orange (DMM:12V w/ key on)
* Pin 86 – Ground
* Pin 87 – IGN ACC2 B6 Brown (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
* Pin 30 – 12V Constant IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)

A quick question that I may have missed the answer to earlier. Since these units have the flex relay on H3/8 that can be set to "Accessory 2," why not enable this option with the Bitwriter instead of the relay?

awer25
03-24-2010, 09:56 PM
OK, here are my H3 and relay connections (along with DMM readings):

o H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Pink to IGN C6 & Bypass Pink (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/2 Red/Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 Red/Wh (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 Harness Side (DMM: 0V unless remote started w/ key in ignition)
o H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 Key Side (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 White (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o H3/9 Red/Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o Relay:

* Pin 85 – from H3/3 & IGN D1 Orange (DMM:12V w/ key on)
* Pin 86 – Ground
* Pin 87 – IGN ACC2 B6 Brown (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
* Pin 30 – 12V Constant IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)

A quick question that I may have missed the answer to earlier. Since these units have the flex relay on H3/8 that can be set to "Accessory 2," why not enable this option with the Bitwriter instead of the relay?

Your wires look good...maybe the relay is defective? You bring up a good point with the Flex relay - idk why I didn't use it, but I remember not knowing I needed a 2nd ACC until I was already soldering up the wires under the car...and I guess I just grabbed a relay b/c it would do what I needed. It does seem that, if set properly, you can use that for ACC2 (it seems that I don't really need H3/7 as it is now, b/c it's a relay output with no input)

kizzmyss
03-24-2010, 10:30 PM
Your wires look good...maybe the relay is defective?

You read my mind. I'm going to swap the relay out tomorrow just for the heck of it to see if that gets me anywhere. If that doesn't do it, I'm going to start getting really suspicious of the Idatalink being defective and not deactivating immobilizing like it should...

awer25
03-25-2010, 09:29 AM
...I'm going to start getting really suspicious of the Idatalink being defective and not deactivating immobilizing like it should...

I could be wrong, but I think if that was the case you would see the flashing security light on the dash when you push the R/S button.

kizzmyss
03-26-2010, 06:49 PM
OK, so here's my latest update. I did not replace the relay simply because I missed a crucial step of wiring the bypass. In D2D, the ground-when-running wire was unnecessary because it would be handled by the D2D cable into the Viper brain. However, since I'm W2W, I should have connected this to the RS Out harness on the Viper. Once I completed this, remote start works perfectly.

Only issue now is I still cannot get the vehicle to perform a normal key-operated start. I get full accessory, but no crank. Any suggestions? So close....! :crazy:

kizzmyss
03-26-2010, 07:49 PM
Forgot to mention that if I disconnect the H3 harness and jump pins H3/4 and H3/5 (in essence, normal state), key-start works fine.

awer25
03-27-2010, 03:49 PM
Forgot to mention that if I disconnect the H3 harness and jump pins H3/4 and H3/5 (in essence, normal state), key-start works fine.

I really hope it's not a defective unit...i mean if there's 12V going into the unit from the starter input wire, it should automatically output 12V on the output wire. This allows you to start the car normally.

I would advise you double-check your connection on the starter input wire just to make sure. Plug in the harness, then probe the pin with a test light or DMM while you turn the key to start.

kizzmyss
03-27-2010, 04:04 PM
I would advise you double-check your connection on the starter input wire just to make sure. Plug in the harness, then probe the pin with a test light or DMM while you turn the key to start.

It was a ground issue, ironically. I checked all wires at the common ground and one was loose from all the fiddling I've been doing, causing the key start to fail.

So, now the key start works fine as does remote start with the car in an unarmed state. When the car is armed, however, I keep tripping the factory alarm which in turns triggers the Viper. The bypass is flashing green during R/S, so according to the manual it is programmed correctly. I'm using D/L1 & D/L3 into the bypass to control locks...could that be my problem? Should I change those to H2/1 and H2/2 to try to control the factory alarm at R/S?

Thanks for all your help so far...you're helping to keep me sane while troubleshooting this thing. :D

awer25
03-27-2010, 05:59 PM
It was a ground issue, ironically. I checked all wires at the common ground and one was loose from all the fiddling I've been doing, causing the key start to fail.

So, now the key start works fine as does remote start with the car in an unarmed state. When the car is armed, however, I keep tripping the factory alarm which in turns triggers the Viper. The bypass is flashing green during R/S, so according to the manual it is programmed correctly. I'm using D/L1 & D/L3 into the bypass to control locks...could that be my problem? Should I change those to H2/1 and H2/2 to try to control the factory alarm at R/S?

Thanks for all your help so far...you're helping to keep me sane while troubleshooting this thing. :D

Glad you got some of it working ;)

As for the factory alarm, you definitely have to go to H2/1 and H2/2 with W2W, but I'm not sure if you ALSO have to hook it to the D/L harness or not. My first guess would be no, as the bypass should unlock the doors via the ODB port. I would try just the H2 harness first.

kizzmyss
03-27-2010, 07:00 PM
Glad you got some of it working ;)

As for the factory alarm, you definitely have to go to H2/1 and H2/2 with W2W, but I'm not sure if you ALSO have to hook it to the D/L harness or not. My first guess would be no, as the bypass should unlock the doors via the ODB port. I would try just the H2 harness first.

I got some advice over on the12volt.com to keep using the current set-up for door unlocks, and just hit H2/1 to the brown wire on the bypass since it has inputs for both unlock/disarm and disarm only. I reprogrammed the bypass for the heck of it, and viola....it all works! Then 20min later, no factory disarm and sets the alarm off again. I'm just sitting in the truck frustrated, and I hear it...the CD changer shuffling. I think to myself, "This only happens when the battery is low or dead." Sure enough, the battery is down to 9 volts from sitting and cycling through alarm functions so many times. I'm presuming the bypass is forgetting it's programing as the battery runs down.

Hopefully with a good drive tomorrow (or maybe a couple hours on the charger), everything will be working correctly. Then I can move on to my Alpine W505 install!

lou71
04-22-2010, 05:42 PM
Heavy-Duty Harness – Letter/number designations refer to GM’s pin numbering system on the steering column ignition harness (see diagrams in 3rd post). You unplug it by unscrewing the 7mm hex-head bolt. As the bolt comes out, it pulls out the plug so go slowly and wiggle it with your hand. Also, the only wire you completely sever at IGN is C1 Yellow “Crank Voltage” starter wire. It's important to solder these connections (and preferable to solder all connections) as they carry a lot of current. T-taps, crimp connectors, and the "twist-n-tape" method won't cut it here.


On the C1 Yellow "Crank Voltage" which side is the "key" side and which is the "car" side? Having a little trouble which is which. Also would I have to use a multimeter if the vehicle are almost the same. Plus would I still need to use a relay if my vehicle is a 04 trailblazer with no onstar and bose system. I'm installing a Viper 5901 with the DLPKGM Module.

awer25
04-22-2010, 05:55 PM
On the C1 Yellow "Crank Voltage" which side is the "key" side and which is the "car" side? Having a little trouble which is which. Also would I have to use a multimeter if the vehicle are almost the same. Plus would I still need to use a relay if my vehicle is a 04 trailblazer with no onstar and bose system. I'm installing a Viper 5901 with the DLPKGM Module.

Key side is the end going towards the key switch, car side is the end going into the ignition harness (towards the front of the car). A multimeter helps in troubleshooting issues, but technically isn't necessary. I would highly recommend one in general though, as they are only around $20 for a basic model. Also, if you have both ACC wires (orange and brown), then you need a relay, which would be hooked up the same way I did, regardless of Bose/Onstar. Hope that helps!

lou71
04-22-2010, 06:07 PM
Thanks for your help. I've been studying your steps for about two weeks so I can get it done right. Again thanks for your help.

awer25
04-22-2010, 10:12 PM
Thanks for your help. I've been studying your steps for about two weeks so I can get it done right. Again thanks for your help.

Glad to help! As you can probably gather by reading the how-to, the pre-installation preparation and figuring out exactly what to do is as important as what you do during the installation. That said, if you need any help figuring it out please let me know :)

Also, there is one typo (so far):

H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 Pink/Wh

C5 is white, not pink/white. I'll have to see if a mod can change it...

lou71
04-23-2010, 06:48 PM
Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)

How do you wire the 30amp relay? Did you use the 12 gauge wire to solder the H3/3 to pin 85 and so forth. For the gray wire on the battery back-up what wire is used to solder it to. Also are the violet H3/4 and the green H3/5 wires to be soldered to the severed yellow C1 (harness and the key side)

awer25
04-23-2010, 08:21 PM
Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)

How do you wire the 30amp relay? Did you use the 12 gauge wire to solder the H3/3 to pin 85 and so forth. For the gray wire on the battery back-up what wire is used to solder it to. Also are the violet H3/4 and the green H3/5 wires to be soldered to the severed yellow C1 (harness and the key side)

I crimped on yellow female spade tips to the 12ga wire and hooked them to the relay pins. The gray wire went to the tilt sensor and H1/2. Yes, solder the starter wires to the vehicle starter wire (H3/4 to harness side of wire and H3/5 to key switch side).

lou71
04-24-2010, 10:04 AM
I crimped on yellow female spade tips to the 12ga wire and hooked them to the relay pins. The gray wire went to the tilt sensor and H1/2. Yes, solder the starter wires to the vehicle starter wire (H3/4 to harness side of wire and H3/5 to key switch side).

Cool thanks for the info. That was the only part that had me stumped. Again thanks dude.

lou71
04-26-2010, 07:16 PM
Have a problem with my remote start. Every time I try to use the remote start it says "remote start error". Also the sensor adjust wont adjust. I can open/lock the doors. Checked all the connections and they look good. Do I need a Bitwriter so I can get them to work?:confused:

awer25
04-26-2010, 07:23 PM
Have a problem with my remote start. Every time I try to use the remote start it says "remote start error". Also the sensor adjust wont adjust. I can open/lock the doors. Checked all the connections and they look good. Do I need a Bitwriter so I can get them to work?:confused:

You don't NEED a bitwriter, but it does make it easier to program. When you hit the RS, do you get any lights on in the dash (like it's trying to start up)? Also, did you program it for Auto transmission, and turn off wait-to-start? Lastly, is the RS toggle switch on?

lou71
04-26-2010, 07:38 PM
You don't NEED a bitwriter, but it does make it easier to program. When you hit the RS, do you get any lights on in the dash (like it's trying to start up)? Also, did you program it for Auto transmission, and turn off wait-to-start? Lastly, is the RS toggle switch on?

No lights come on in the dash. Don't know if I program it for auto transmission and turn off wait-to-start, but the toggle switch is on. So how do I program it for auto transmission, is it on the "brain" unit or the fob?
:confused:

awer25
04-26-2010, 08:29 PM
No lights come on in the dash. Don't know if I program it for auto transmission and turn off wait-to-start, but the toggle switch is on. So how do I program it for auto transmission, is it on the "brain" unit or the fob?
:confused:

It's in the settings that you choose by pressing the button on the antenna, but if you're not getting any lights, then it's not that. Assuming for now that it's wired correctly, it sounds like you didn't program the bypass correctly or didn't program the remote correctly.

lou71
04-26-2010, 08:37 PM
It's in the settings that you choose by pressing the button on the antenna, but if you're not getting any lights, then it's not that. Assuming for now that it's wired correctly, it sounds like you didn't program the bypass correctly or didn't program the remote correctly.
So do I have to reprogram both and how do I do that.

awer25
04-26-2010, 09:15 PM
So do I have to reprogram both and how do I do that.

IIRC, you do the remote first, but I don't remember the procedure. It should be printed on a card that was at the very top of the box when you opened it. Instructions for the bypass can be found on the Trailblazer supplement (http://www.bypasskit.com/GetDocument.aspx?documentid=6014&productid=125&firmwareid=1633), section 1-B. I know you have to press and hold the program button on the bypass while plugging in the main harness and then the D2D cable.

lou71
05-02-2010, 05:54 PM
Just to let everyone know that I got the remote strater to work. I went ahead and bought a Bitwriter on Amazon ($79.60). It was worth every penny I spent. It took alot of guess working out and made programming the viper a lot easier. I would like to thank awer25 for his step-by-step guide and his hard work. Again thank you awer25.:thx

awer25
05-02-2010, 10:39 PM
Just to let everyone know that I got the remote strater to work. I went ahead and bought a Bitwriter on Amazon ($79.60). It was worth every penny I spent. It took alot of guess working out and made programming the viper a lot easier. I would like to thank awer25 for his step-by-step guide and his hard work. Again thank you awer25.:thx

No problem - glad to hear you got it working! What ended up being the problem?

lou71
05-06-2010, 12:30 PM
No problem - glad to hear you got it working! What ended up being the problem?

After I checked the wiring which were good, pairing the remotes, and programming the dkplgm, it still would not remote start. But when I received the Bitwriter and programmed the 'brain" to automatic it remotely started. Its been working ever since. I have no problems with the unit. Also how do I install the 508D (radar field disturbance) to the system. I'm using the 506T (audio glass sensor) plugged into the main unit using the extra port. I know in your steps you didn't have the 508D installed so do you have any suggestions on how to add it on?

Beto510
07-19-2010, 11:29 PM
OK, here are my H3 and relay connections (along with DMM readings):

o H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Pink to IGN C6 & Bypass Pink (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/2 Red/Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 Red/Wh (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 Harness Side (DMM: 0V unless remote started w/ key in ignition)
o H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 Key Side (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 White (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o H3/9 Red/Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o Relay:

* Pin 85 – from H3/3 & IGN D1 Orange (DMM:12V w/ key on)
* Pin 86 – Ground
* Pin 87 – IGN ACC2 B6 Brown (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
* Pin 30 – 12V Constant IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)

A quick question that I may have missed the answer to earlier. Since these units have the flex relay on H3/8 that can be set to "Accessory 2," why not enable this option with the Bitwriter instead of the relay?

Hi i joined this forum just to say thanks for helping install my alarm i woudnt've been able to do it without your helpful thread, but im currently having an issue i'm getting the same readings as i quoted above except for the GREEN wire H3/5 i get 0 voltage when i crank the engine everything works fine i can remote start my car with the key in the on position but without it being on it wont start it will crank over three times and it shows the error on my lcd but no flashing lights? I'm really stuck and would greatly appreciate your help thanks :thx

awer25
07-20-2010, 01:09 AM
Hi i joined this forum just to say thanks for helping install my alarm i woudnt've been able to do it without your helpful thread, but im currently having an issue i'm getting the same readings as i quoted above except for the GREEN wire H3/5 i get 0 voltage when i crank the engine everything works fine i can remote start my car with the key in the on position but without it being on it wont start it will crank over three times and it shows the error on my lcd but no flashing lights? I'm really stuck and would greatly appreciate your help thanks :thx

It's been a while since I installed mine, but I'll see what I can do... Did you install the relay as shown? Also, can you start it normally with the key? And, what bypass are you using and did you program it?

Beto510
07-20-2010, 01:25 AM
It's been a while since I installed mine, but I'll see what I can do... Did you install the relay as shown? Also, can you start it normally with the key? And, what bypass are you using and did you program it?

Yes, I installed the relay as shown i can hear it click so i know it is working, i can start it normally with the key, and like i said it only remote starts with the key in ON position im using the DLPKGM, and i did program it as it said in the manual. I just don't understand why there would be nothing at the green wire.. weird!:duh:

awer25
07-20-2010, 11:05 AM
Yes, I installed the relay as shown i can hear it click so i know it is working, i can start it normally with the key, and like i said it only remote starts with the key in ON position im using the DLPKGM, and i did program it as it said in the manual. I just don't understand why there would be nothing at the green wire.. weird!:duh:

I'm pretty sure it's normal not to have current on the key side of the starter circuit during remote start, as it only gets current when the key is actually in the start position. With remote start, the Viper unit sends 12V to the starter during the "Start" sequence without the key, so there wouldn't be current on the key side. I think the diagram is wrong below.

I know that doesn't solve your problem, but I think the issue may be your tach wire since it's actually cranking but not running, and having the key turned to Run bypasses the Viper's checks, so that's why it works that way. Which option are you using (virtual tach, volt sense, or real tach) and how did you hook it up?

Beto510
07-20-2010, 11:41 AM
Iam using virtual tach and it does run the thing is it runs for like 1 or 2 seconds and shuts off..then does it two more times.

Edit: forgot to say the tach is wired to the xpresskit

awer25
07-20-2010, 01:10 PM
Iam using virtual tach and it does run the thing is it runs for like 1 or 2 seconds and shuts off..then does it two more times.

Edit: forgot to say the tach is wired to the xpresskit

I only used the tach wire and had it set to sense the real tach. I was told not to have the tach wire hooked up if using virtual tach.

Since it's already hooked up, try changing it to sense real tach, and if that doesn't work try cutting the tach wire and setting it to virtual tach.

Steiny131131
11-28-2010, 12:43 AM
Alright guys ive been workin at this for way to long. I have all the wires connected the way shown. The module is programed and the remote arms/disarms and locks/unlocks the doors. I am trying to get it into program mode to change the default setting of a manual transmission but no luck. Any advice?



PS. I did not buy the writer tool



ThaNKs

xanth
12-20-2010, 05:11 PM
Alright guys ive been workin at this for way to long. I have all the wires connected the way shown. The module is programed and the remote arms/disarms and locks/unlocks the doors. I am trying to get it into program mode to change the default setting of a manual transmission but no luck. Any advice?

PS. I did not buy the writer tool

ThaNKs

Can't help, but installed one of these (well, the Python model) and everything works except the remote start. The remote says remote start error, the unit clicks 8 times, then that's it.

I think it's a problem with the menus... Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and buy the bitwriter...

Oh yea, a HUGE thanks for putting this together. Installing one for the wife for christmas and this made it SO much easier!

rgut0112
12-21-2010, 03:19 PM
Thanks! I will deffinatly be using this write up.

xanth
12-22-2010, 02:29 PM
So I'm at a loss with this thing. Bought a bitwriter and ran through the settings. Set it to auto transmission and diesel setting to timed, then set the time for 5. Still nothing, remote does not work.

Bravada starts and runs just fine which tells me the DLPKGM thing is working, no security lights.

When you hit the remote start button, the remote displays "remote start error" the unit clicks 7 or 8 times that's it.

Anyone have any advice? Double checked the wiring and it seems good. Also seems that if there was a wiring problem, something else wouldn't be working. Alarm works, doors lock and unlock, runs fine...

xanth
12-25-2010, 10:07 AM
Well troubleshot it for an hour today and finally figured out what the problem was. The python was clicking 8 times after a remote start error. Looking at the instructions, it says that 8 flashes of the lights is a NSS/NSS switch problem. Long story short, had the wront black/white wire hooked up :duh:. Grounded the right wire, and it worked!

At least I got everything nice and cleaned up.... So, even though you double checked the wires, if you're having issues... triple check them :thumbsup:

Thanks again for the great writeup! :thx

redman0800
12-29-2010, 03:24 PM
Your wires look good...maybe the relay is defective? You bring up a good point with the Flex relay - idk why I didn't use it, but I remember not knowing I needed a 2nd ACC until I was already soldering up the wires under the car...and I guess I just grabbed a relay b/c it would do what I needed. It does seem that, if set properly, you can use that for ACC2 (it seems that I don't really need H3/7 as it is now, b/c it's a relay output with no input)

has anyone successfully done this? I'll be installing this weekend and would like to eliminate any unnecessary relays if possible.


Thanks!

Kuchar09
12-31-2010, 10:51 PM
Ok so I have a Viper 5901 and the DLPKGM. Wired everything up just didn't plug the plugs into any of the modules. I started the car with the defrost on to heat the window up for the antenna. It started fine and everything. I get all the modules hooked up and attempt to program the DLPKGM but the car will not start. When trying to start the car nothing happens, the battery light comes on and that's it. I'm thinking that cutting the yellow wire to split it to the green and violet wire then starting the car without it being connected may have put the car is security lockout but i am not sure. Even if I unhook all the modules my car still does not start. I have also tried unhooking the battery for a few minutes also. Any help would be greatly appreciated.:suicide:

redman0800
01-03-2011, 09:15 AM
Hey...Installed my 5901 this past weekend. Having a few Issues. 1st...When I press Lock and Arm the system, I get a "Door Open" message on my remote.

2nd...The remote start works only sometimes. Sometimes I will instantly get a "Remote Start Error" and it wont even crank....until i tap the break. Once the break is tapped and I press the remote start button again it will attempt to start the vehicle. Whether it starts or not is a crap shoot. Sometimes it will work fine 2-3 times in a row without a problem, and sometimes it just doesnt seam to work at all.

I'm using the DLPKGM which I think is programmed correctly because there are times where the R/S does work. However, I think I do recalling somewhere that there is a "different" way to program this for a TBSS...Could this be the case?

I was wondering if the Green Door Trigger Might have something to do with it. I currently have H1/8 going to the Bypass. I was reviewing the instructions that came with the DLPKGM and they do not show the Door Trigger Wire being used....just the Ignition (Pink) / OBD2 (Purple)/ Tach(Violet/White).

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! :thx

ScarabEpic22
02-13-2011, 03:08 AM
Having a few issues with my install, Python 592 aka Viper 5901.

First, I dont get ANY parking light communication from the Viper/DLPKGM during lock/unlock/remote start. Polarity on the Viper is set correctly. Do I need to run the parking light output wire from the Viper to a parking light wire in the truck?

Second, after 6 seconds of Remote Start the truck shuts off, then restarts, then shuts off again after 6 sec, then I get a brake pedal error on my remote. Weird because the brake isnt pressed and if I press the brake when the car is running on RS it kills it immediately.

I have the tach wire hooked up, should I run virtual tach (and cut the tach wire) or program the Viper for Tach or Voltage?

Im using a Bitwriter with v2.7, thing is amazing but Im playing with tons of options trying to fix these issues.

Also, how do you reprogram the regular 1way remote?

ScarabEpic22
02-14-2011, 12:02 AM
Figured Id update this to let everyone know what I did to fix these issues.

On 2008s, at least my SS, the DLPKGM doesnt control the parking lights (at least consistently) so I had to hardwire the H1/11 White Parking light (+) wire to the brown (+) parking light wire I grabbed under the dash. I spotted 3 brown wires, I chose the thickest one and it was the parking wire. Got lucky I guess! One issue down.

The start/stop/start/stop/start/stop was because the Viper was trying to learn the tach. Not sure why it didnt work even with the tach wire hooked up, but once I did the tach learn procedure (Start truck with key, press and hold button on the antenna within 5 sec until the antenna light comes on). Worked perfectly after that.

Still looking for tips on syncing the 1 way remote to the Viper, have my 2 way color one working perfectly now.

Also, I sometimes get a "Trunk open" alert and it sets the alarm off. Ive tried setting the Trunk/Aux output to OFF and Validity, both seem to work sometimes. Im back to OFF now, Ill check it again tomorrow.

Thanks again to Andrew, all of my wiring except the parking light deal worked the first time! I checked all of the RS wires, but some of the smaller ones I just read as much as I could.

awer25
02-28-2011, 02:43 PM
Figured Id update this to let everyone know what I did to fix these issues.

On 2008s, at least my SS, the DLPKGM doesnt control the parking lights (at least consistently) so I had to hardwire the H1/11 White Parking light (+) wire to the brown (+) parking light wire I grabbed under the dash. I spotted 3 brown wires, I chose the thickest one and it was the parking wire. Got lucky I guess! One issue down.

The start/stop/start/stop/start/stop was because the Viper was trying to learn the tach. Not sure why it didnt work even with the tach wire hooked up, but once I did the tach learn procedure (Start truck with key, press and hold button on the antenna within 5 sec until the antenna light comes on). Worked perfectly after that.

Still looking for tips on syncing the 1 way remote to the Viper, have my 2 way color one working perfectly now.

Also, I sometimes get a "Trunk open" alert and it sets the alarm off. Ive tried setting the Trunk/Aux output to OFF and Validity, both seem to work sometimes. Im back to OFF now, Ill check it again tomorrow.

Thanks again to Andrew, all of my wiring except the parking light deal worked the first time! I checked all of the RS wires, but some of the smaller ones I just read as much as I could.


Sorry I didn't get to your issue earlier - I've been abroad since August and have only been on the site sporadically (mostly b/c I really miss the Rainier!)

As for your trunk issue, I was having the same problem. For me it was only the "warning" level beep and only once in a while. If you wired everything like me, then it's most likely either the backup battery or tilt sensors sending out a (-) pulse through H1/7. If you can, try unplugging the tilt sensor for a sufficient amount of days to rule that out. The battery is more complicated since much of the system is powered through it.

I'm pretty sure it's not the glass-break sensor because that's plugged into a different port. Since the warning is "Trunk", I'm assuming it's a pulse on the trunk trigger (H1/7).

Anyway, let me know how it worked out for you as I may have to do the same thing when I get back.

ScarabEpic22
02-28-2011, 03:53 PM
Sorry I didn't get to your issue earlier - I've been abroad since August and have only been on the site sporadically (mostly b/c I really miss the Rainier!)

As for your trunk issue, I was having the same problem. For me it was only the "warning" level beep and only once in a while. If you wired everything like me, then it's most likely either the backup battery or tilt sensors sending out a (-) pulse through H1/7. If you can, try unplugging the tilt sensor for a sufficient amount of days to rule that out. The battery is more complicated since much of the system is powered through it.

I'm pretty sure it's not the glass-break sensor because that's plugged into a different port. Since the warning is "Trunk", I'm assuming it's a pulse on the trunk trigger (H1/7).

Anyway, let me know how it worked out for you as I may have to do the same thing when I get back.

Its cool man, lots of people close to me were abroad last year.

Mine will just set the alarm off full, no warning chirp. Ill try unplugging the tilt sensor later today, hopefully that does it. Plus I didnt have time to actually mount it, so having it free floating under the dash might be contributing? If it works, Ill mount the tilt sensor in May when I get home and can redo a little wiring at the same time.

Hope its not the battery backup, that thing ties into way more parts...

awer25
02-28-2011, 04:25 PM
Its cool man, lots of people close to me were abroad last year.

Mine will just set the alarm off full, no warning chirp. Ill try unplugging the tilt sensor later today, hopefully that does it. Plus I didnt have time to actually mount it, so having it free floating under the dash might be contributing? If it works, Ill mount the tilt sensor in May when I get home and can redo a little wiring at the same time.

Hope its not the battery backup, that thing ties into way more parts...

Sounds good. I mounted mine so that may be why it's only a warning. It's mounted underneath the plastic step right where the bottom of the door meets the car body. It seems like a good place if you need one (the closer to horizontal, the better it'll work)

ScarabEpic22
03-01-2011, 05:29 PM
Sounds good. I mounted mine so that may be why it's only a warning. It's mounted underneath the plastic step right where the bottom of the door meets the car body. It seems like a good place if you need one (the closer to horizontal, the better it'll work)

Thats exactly where I was planning on mounting mine, just didnt get around to it as I was troubleshooting the some RS and the parking light issue.

Also, I wonder if having the air suspension makes a difference. When you lock the alarm, the tilt sensor zeroes itself and allows 1 degree of movement (3 if you cut the wire). What happens when the air bags out back leak down a bit, thats going to set the alarm off I think...Ill play with it, might have to cut the loop and set the sensor to 3 degrees.

awer25
03-02-2011, 02:17 PM
Also, I wonder if having the air suspension makes a difference. When you lock the alarm, the tilt sensor zeroes itself and allows 1 degree of movement (3 if you cut the wire). What happens when the air bags out back leak down a bit, thats going to set the alarm off I think...Ill play with it, might have to cut the loop and set the sensor to 3 degrees.

That's a really good point, and I think I still have mine on 1 degree.

Cigarette33
07-17-2011, 11:02 AM
Missing some pics there... Not sure if they were important or not, but figured I'd tell ya...

MoD
07-25-2011, 04:06 PM
Missing some pics there... Not sure if they were important or not, but figured I'd tell ya...

Yes- I was going to mention this as well.

Just picked up a unit, and getting ready to install. Wanted to ask if those missing pics are available somewhere else still?

Thanks,
Matt

MAY03LT
07-25-2011, 05:34 PM
the three missing pics are in post 35

MoD
07-26-2011, 11:25 AM
the three missing pics are in post 35

Thanks!

arivera0809
08-07-2011, 04:54 PM
Wondering You Can Help....

Finally gotten alarm installed, but we were having a hard time with the front Window Automation System for front windows because of the auto control, does anyone know how to wire the Window Automation System corrently? I read their must be some type of relay but i want to be sure before i head back to shop to complete the install for the front windows.

awer25
08-08-2011, 02:48 AM
Wondering You Can Help....

Finally gotten alarm installed, but we were having a hard time with the front Window Automation System for front windows because of the auto control, does anyone know how to wire the Window Automation System corrently? I read their must be some type of relay but i want to be sure before i head back to shop to complete the install for the front windows.

What module do you have? The website for the module should have wiring instructions.

wope
08-22-2011, 07:47 AM
Also, I sometimes get a "Trunk open" alert and it sets the alarm off. Ive tried setting the Trunk/Aux output to OFF and Validity, both seem to work sometimes. Im back to OFF now, Ill check it again tomorrow.



I was wondering if you ever figured out exactly what was causing this as I am having the same exact problem. I also have both a tilt sensor and backup battery. Would really appreciate it if you could share any info as I am stumped.

arivera0809
08-23-2011, 12:07 AM
Have the Viper 530T module, still haven't been able to quite figure it out :duh:

skikab
09-16-2011, 05:28 PM
I'm hoping someone can help me figure this out as I have not been able to find a solution. I am getting an intermittent 'Remote Start Error' with one flash of the parking lights. If I then unlock/unarm it will start working again (even if I lock/arm it again). It's almost like the remote has to reconnect with the system. It happens each time I go into my office. In addition when I would go out, it would unarm and not unlock unless I pushed the unlock button twice. I was able to work around that by changing the lock pulse to 3.5 seconds. I am confused because if I keep the remote close to the car it will work fine (i.e. it works fine each morning). I have tried reprogramming the DLPKGM but it does not make a difference.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

xhondastyle07x
09-23-2011, 10:16 AM
Is there any basic difference between the DEI 455G-W Trailblazer Envoy Interface 2001+ Bypass GM and the Directed DLPKGM Gm All Doorlock & Passkey Int?

MAY03LT
09-23-2011, 05:49 PM
I thought the difference was that 455 didn't do passlock.

xhondastyle07x
09-23-2011, 08:46 PM
Has anybody used the new XPressKit XK09- 9.DLPKGM v2.07 for door lock interface and passkey interface?

spowell
09-23-2011, 10:33 PM
I just installed a Viper 5901 and XK09 in my 08 TB. Everything works great. The park light had to be wired as the XK09 doesn’t support them. The 2nd accessory brown wire is not necessary to be powered for the remote start unless you want the wipers to work while under remote start.

PS: The DLPKGM by XpressKit is discontinued.

GroundZero2010
10-01-2011, 01:34 PM
2007 Trailblazer SS
Viper 5901
Xpresskit XK01

I've gotten the door locks to work and the factory disarm to work properly. I've also gotten the remote start to work (on occasion). I think I've narrowed down my issue with the remote start to being a low voltage situation. Not sure why I'm having low voltage problems since I have a fairly new Optima battery. If I just get out of my TB after a nice drive, I can remote start it and it stays running, however if I go to work and try remote starting it after its been sitting for a few hours it'll start and run for 10-15 seconds, shutdown and re-start in the same manner 2 other times. After the third it shuts down I get a "Remote Start Off" indicator on my remote. Checking the valet switch/led for last remote start shutdown its saying its a low voltage check. I believe I'm running my system in voltage mode and not virtual tach or true tach.

I'd like to change the system to true tach but I'm not sure which wire the tach is and what is the most convenient location to pick up tach.

On a second note, the XK01 module is suppose to do window roll-up as well as heated seats. I believe the heated seats I'll have to connect a relay up for, but haven't yet. Is there a way to check to see if the heated seats are going to work? I'd hate to hook it up and find out when it starts getting below freezing that the heated seats option isn't working. I also believe this goes for the defogger. I know my windows fog up at higher temperatures than freezing.

Has anyone gotten the XK01 to do the rollup window option or checked to confirm heated seats and defogger? While trying to program the XK01 I can't get it to change the option 5> (window rollup option) On. It is suppose to quick flash twice when set to on, and quick flash once when set to off, but all I ever get is one quick flash as if it isn't programming correctly.

I just ordered a XKLoader2 which is suppose to reflash the XK01 to factory settings also load in the latest firmware, which I already believe is installed.

Any help here?? :confused:

arivera0809
10-02-2011, 01:25 PM
Been having a issue with my install, sometimes when i use autostart my alarm goes off after it attempts to turn on and something turn on and off after a few minutes on. Happens rarely but still curious if anyone is having this issue?

GroundZero2010
10-02-2011, 08:15 PM
Been having a issue with my install, sometimes when i use autostart my alarm goes off after it attempts to turn on and something turn on and off after a few minutes on. Happens rarely but still curious if anyone is having this issue?

Which alarm is going off? The factory alarm or the aftermarket alarm?

arivera0809
10-02-2011, 08:23 PM
Aftermarket

GroundZero2010
10-02-2011, 10:34 PM
Do you have any additional sensors added to your alarm? The only thing that will activate your alarm is door triggers, hood trigger, trunk trigger, and any type of shock sensor. I believe I've named them all. I believe your shock sensor should be turned off during remote starting but the other zones are left on until you disarm the system. If you have any other additional sensors, it may not be disabled during remote start and causing your alarm to go off.

arivera0809
10-03-2011, 01:19 PM
Have all sensors but trunk release, would most likely have to mess with setting on remote. Still not sure about why the auto start turns on and off?:undecided

GroundZero2010
10-03-2011, 03:32 PM
You can check the installation manual for shutdown diagnostics. It's pretty simple to do on the viper alarms. Not sure about autostart.

zerovandez
10-31-2011, 02:25 PM
If you have it installed, a backup battery will set an alarm off during remote start sometimes. While starting, your voltage will drop. If the 520T (backup battery) module senses this, it will trigger your alarm. You'll need to install a DEI pulse timer relay to between the alarm and 520T.

arivera0809
11-02-2011, 04:15 PM
Wow that answer all my answers completely, my other question what kind of relay is need for the front windows module.?

arivera0809
11-03-2011, 11:51 PM
Forgot to add, would that fix the auto start from turning on and off when the auto start is activated?

excelon2001
11-08-2011, 12:10 AM
Just installed a Python 533P and everything seems to be working except remote start. I have programmed the unit for real tach and set the diesel timer from wait to start to 15 sec. still no remote start. Im using a XK01

zerovandez
11-09-2011, 12:14 PM
Wow that answer all my answers completely, my other question what kind of relay is need for the front windows module.?

What did you want to do with the front windows? Auto roll up/down/vent? A DEI 530T would be the solution. Take note that you need 2 of these if you want to control all 4 windows.

As for your autostart problems, start by installing the DEI Pulse Timer Relay IF YOU HAVE A BACKUP BATTERY (DEI 520T) installed.

zerovandez
11-09-2011, 12:19 PM
Just installed a Python 533P and everything seems to be working except remote start. I have programmed the unit for real tach and set the diesel timer from wait to start to 15 sec. still no remote start. Im using a XK01

If connected properly, your car will output a number of light flashes to indicate the problem of your remote start failure (in your owners manual). Stand outside of your car, and wait for those flashes. Post back what you find.

You guys shouldn't have any problems if you installed per this thread....The OP doesn't seem to have any.

You guys should also SOLDER all connections. I've seen remote start failures happen due to those wire taps not making a complete connection. Connect just the alarm portion of the Alarm unit first, test that it's working (all triggers, domelight, locks, etc.), then move onto the remote start.

arivera0809
11-13-2011, 08:37 PM
What did you want to do with the front windows? Auto roll up/down/vent? A DEI 530T would be the solution. Take note that you need 2 of these if you want to control all 4 windows.

As for your autostart problems, start by installing the DEI Pulse Timer Relay IF YOU HAVE A BACKUP BATTERY (DEI 520T) installed.

Well i have the same module I used for the back windows but i was told i may need a relay, just curious does anyone know the correct way to wire the module to the relay.

and for the 520T I will buy that this week to check if that fix the issues (do have back up)

ScarabEpic22
11-14-2011, 05:44 PM
Good to know about the 520T setting the alarm off for low voltage, Ill double check that.

Has anyone figured out why the DLPKGM sets off a trunk trigger even when Ive disabled everything I can find in the programming? I bought a BitWriter and still cant use it normally without worrying it will randomly go off.

zerovandez
11-15-2011, 09:21 AM
Well i have the same module I used for the back windows but i was told i may need a relay, just curious does anyone know the correct way to wire the module to the relay.

and for the 520T I will buy that this week to check if that fix the issues (do have back up)

No need for a relay. Just make sure it's connected properly. I've never heard of anyone using a relay for it. Make your connections at the MOTOR on each door.

zerovandez
11-15-2011, 09:30 AM
Good to know about the 520T setting the alarm off for low voltage, Ill double check that.

Has anyone figured out why the DLPKGM sets off a trunk trigger even when Ive disabled everything I can find in the programming? I bought a BitWriter and still cant use it normally without worrying it will randomly go off.

For you guys wanting to try using the digital pulse timer to interrupt the backup battery, connect as follows:

Black/white to GWR on alarm (use diode if needed, band facing alarm)
Red to 12v constant fused at 5a
Black to ground
Yellow to DEI 520T module blue wire
Orange to alarm instant trigger blue wire
Brown is not used.

There shouldn't be a direct connection from alarm instant trigger to DEI 520T blue wire. Remember, you are interrupting the instant trigger. Use diodes if you have more than 1 sensor with the instant trigger, bands facing the sensor.

How did you connect your trunk trigger? where is it connected to? Did you also connect it to the blue instant trigger along with the 520T? Did you diode isolate all sensors connected to the instant trigger? The instant trigger is also a trunk trigger. So anything connected to this lead will appear as a trunk alarm on your remote. Start eliminating all other sensors connected to this lead to test, add them back 1 by 1 with diodes.

ScarabEpic22
11-15-2011, 08:52 PM
Crap the whole reason I went with the setup I did was to avoid messing around with diodes and complicated wiring. I can do it, I just really hate it and it takes more time.

What annoys me is I have reassigned the instant trigger to NOT be the truck trigger using my BitWriter. Why does it keep thinking its still a trunk trigger?

Ill play with it next week over Thanksgiving when I have time to pull the dash apart again. Might just ditch the dang 520T as its way more hassle than its worth currently.

zerovandez
11-15-2011, 09:05 PM
Crap the whole reason I went with the setup I did was to avoid messing around with diodes and complicated wiring. I can do it, I just really hate it and it takes more time.

What annoys me is I have reassigned the instant trigger to NOT be the truck trigger using my BitWriter. Why does it keep thinking its still a trunk trigger?

Ill play with it next week over Thanksgiving when I have time to pull the dash apart again. Might just ditch the dang 520T as its way more hassle than its worth currently.

How many other sensors do you have connected to the blue instant/trunk trigger? It could be another sensor triggering this lead. Can you do a process of elimination to find the problem area? If you only have the 520T connected to this lead, then you can do without diodes. Just connect the pulse timer relay as indicated above. Keep in mind that if you are using GWA wire, you will want to diode isolate that lead as well IF you are adding more than one sensor. Not hard, just annoying.

ScarabEpic22
11-16-2011, 01:57 AM
How many other sensors do you have connected to the blue instant/trunk trigger? It could be another sensor triggering this lead. Can you do a process of elimination to find the problem area? If you only have the 520T connected to this lead, then you can do without diodes. Just connect the pulse timer relay as indicated above. Keep in mind that if you are using GWA wire, you will want to diode isolate that lead as well IF you are adding more than one sensor. Not hard, just annoying.

I have a tilt or glass break sensor connected as awer posted in his initial writeup. Not both, I cant remember exactly how I did it back in Feb. I know I dont have any diodes at all.

Im using the included wire for the sensor connection.

zerovandez
11-16-2011, 08:41 AM
I have a tilt or glass break sensor connected as awer posted in his initial writeup. Not both, I cant remember exactly how I did it back in Feb. I know I dont have any diodes at all.

Im using the included wire for the sensor connection.

So it sounds like you do have at least one additional sensor to the 520T which makes a total of 2 sensors on the instant trigger. You NEED to use diodes if that is true. Are you using the GWR lead at all? You will want diodes on that as well.

If your alarm is randomly going off with a trunk trigger being at fault, I would suspect it's a problem with whatever sensors you have going to the instant trigger lead; could be bad sensors as well. but it does sound lke the voltage is dropping triggering the 520T.

when you are down there messing with stuff, check voltage on your main battery, and the backup battery. They should be around 12.5v and monitor voltage loss AKA parasitic draw. Those DEI backup batteries are complete ****; they drain quick and don't keep the system armed long enough in the event of a theft. I replaced mine with a unit from a UPS 12v/7ah.

dslvrstrk
11-20-2011, 08:37 PM
Great Write up!!! Even though its over 2 years old.

Everything works great except I do not get any parking lights. At night the "automatic Headlights" come on with a remote start, but during the day...nothing. Do I need to wire the H1/11 wire directly to the parking lights?

MAY03LT
11-20-2011, 09:43 PM
Everything works great except I do not get any parking lights. At night the "automatic Headlights" come on with a remote start, but during the day...nothing. Do I need to wire the H1/11 wire directly to the parking lights?

If you want them to come on during a r/s, then yes.

The (-) park light wire is a little tough to find. In the big harness that runs across the bottom of the dash, there are 8 brown wires. One of those goes to ground when you turn the park lights on. That's what H1/11 will go to, and the H1/11 jumper should be set to negative (factory setting).

dslvrstrk
11-20-2011, 09:51 PM
Perfect, thanks! I'll do that, this thread was super helpful.


2008 G8 GT
2005 Rainier
2011 Fusion

i_wanna_m3
11-21-2011, 11:42 AM
i also have the parking light problem, now i know how to fix that. but a problem i cant find any thing about is the remote start works perfect, the alarm works perfect but if the alarm is on and we go to start it the alarm is triggered by the door. i couldnt figure out which wire to use for dome light supervision under the rear fuse box. what i found was a gray/black but theres two of then, one in each plug on the BCM. by the way its a 2006 ext trailblazer and we are using a python 533 and GMDLBP

xhondastyle07x
11-21-2011, 04:48 PM
I also have a problem that someone on here may be able to help with. I installed the 5701 with xk09. Everything works fine so far but if I arm the alarm the battery dies overnight. If I manually lock the doors and use the remote start and unlock keypad in the morning the battery is fine. Can anyone help with suggestions that may be causing the battery draw.. I know I'm going to have to probably test connections but was hoping someone would have an easy answer.

xhondastyle07x
11-23-2011, 03:27 PM
No suggestions on this??

zerovandez
11-24-2011, 06:10 AM
No suggestions on this??

Get your battery tested. After you have verified that it's healthy. Check for parasitic draw. Use the link for tips and info...

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

xhondastyle07x
11-24-2011, 11:06 PM
Get your battery tested. After you have verified that it's healthy. Check for parasitic draw. Use the link for tips and info...

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

Already replaced battery..original was bad and put a new one in. Def. have a draw with something in the alarm somewhere. Just thought someone would have an idea where to start

zerovandez
11-24-2011, 11:58 PM
Already replaced battery..original was bad and put a new one in. Def. have a draw with something in the alarm somewhere. Just thought someone would have an idea where to start

I did give you an idea as to where to start. You have some form of parasitic draw. The link I provided describes how to test for it. But you've already answered your own question. You already know it's your alarm that's at fault.

i_wanna_m3
12-06-2011, 08:52 PM
i also have the parking light problem, now i know how to fix that. but a problem i cant find any thing about is the remote start works perfect, the alarm works perfect but if the alarm is on and we go to start it the alarm is triggered by the door. i couldnt figure out which wire to use for dome light supervision under the rear fuse box. what i found was a gray/black but theres two of then, one in each plug on the BCM. by the way its a 2006 ext trailblazer and we are using a python 533 and GMDLBP


anybody have any ideas on this?

arivera0809
03-19-2012, 03:52 PM
What the correct way in resetting the lock and unlocking door function? Double checked the manuel and didn't locate anything, for some reason my Viper 5902 doesn't lock or unlock doors but, will arm the vechicle.

X97chevy
08-25-2012, 11:56 PM
Does anyone know if these steps would be the same for a 2007 TBSS??

GroundZero2010
08-26-2012, 12:37 PM
Does anyone know if these steps would be the same for a 2007 TBSS??

I installed on my 07 TBSS! works great!
Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions or if you need any accessories. I can point you in the right direction.

X97chevy
08-26-2012, 06:38 PM
Can someone tell me the difference between using the dlpkgm and dball?.

The install shop down the street is quoting the alarm install using the dball vs the dlpkgm module. Any help is good thanks.

GroundZero2010
08-26-2012, 09:52 PM
DB-ALL should cover anything you might want with your TBSS. I believe this bypass will do heated seats as well. Check the xpresskit site for actual features the DB-ALL covers.

http://www.xpresskit.com/CompatibilityChart.aspx?productid=461&c=223

Hope this helps!

Rodrigueza7
09-13-2012, 01:25 AM
Hello, I am new to the forum but I am impressed with the number of articles and the knowledge many of the members display. I have a 2007 Tb 4.2 LS and came across this forum while researching remote start/alarm installations. I have an Autopage C3-RS-730. I have done quite a bit of reading but I am still not confident enough to start the installation. I've been able to find all required wires at the ignition harness but I can't find the OEM alarm module or the bypass. Some said it was in the driver's door but I don't see it there. Any other place where I should look? Is there a way of checking if I even have such bypass? Sorry for the number of questions, this is my very first install and I am more mechanically inclined that electrical. Thank you in advance and feel free to break things down as much as possible, I wont be offended :thx

Greg Lavigne
11-08-2012, 08:00 PM
I liked the post about how to install viper remote car starter. Im doing my research in doing it myself. Im an electrician so i know how to do connections but messing a car scares me cause im afraid frying the computer or something. Funny how i can mess with 480 volts no problem but 12 volts makes me nervous..lol I got a 2004 trailblazer. Im leaning towards viper starter. I understand the connections and stuff but the part about flashing the firm ware and stuff im not 100 percent about. What do I need? does it come with the starter or module. Also what does a 998T Bitwriter do? Vipor website is like fort knoxx about giving normal people the info needed to do the job. Is there any other sites or info that you might have that might help out. You seem very knowledgable and any tidbits you give me would be very appricated.

Thanks very much
Greg lavigne
static104@yahoo.com :tiphat

Blitzedr6
01-12-2013, 06:49 PM
I installed an autopage cs rs 730 and ADS-DLSL-GM1 bypass in my 04 TB today and am experiencing the following problems:

Once started the tach gauge will sit at 1k but after 30 seconds of being turned on it will dip to the point where it almost shuts off the vehicle but then ramps back up to 1k rpm then dip again. When I insert the key, the rpm will sit steady at 1k and will not fluctuate.

The Service 4WD light comes on when starting with the remote which stays on even after inserting the key.
The Service 4WD light does NOT come on when starting normally with the key.

The climate control (heat/ac) will remain on if the dial is set to any number besides "off" even after the car has been turned off and they key is removed. This happens when starting with the remote and also starting normally with the key. This is my biggest problem because I am wanting to use the remote to start the vehicle and have the it automatically turn the air on to defrost the front windows. I even shut the car off, locked it and the air continues to run even with the key removed from the ignition.

Any input regarding a correction for these problems is greatly appreciated :)

b-ank
01-15-2013, 08:08 PM
Hello I'm looking for some help with insatalling a crimestopper sp-400 starter/alarm with engine disable ..
What I have to install with it is a crimestopper Evo-All All-In one data module 2000+(Evo-all)-
And 520T back up battery..
A few months back I had to replace the motor and track for driver side door window so I ran a wire from the alarm disable and door pin switch. (Not sure if I will need that now the the data module I have now or not?
It also has engine disable and a high jack option to disable engine after you engage hidden button (I'm thinking would go near seatbelt release if I use) that will kill power to car after the alowwed time set. Would I still be able to or need to use the back up battery??
And also for rear latch would the module unlock it or will I have to run wire for that?
I have everything connected outside as far as the hood pin and siren installed
All help with wiring the system with module and back up battery would be awesome.
Thanks in advance:suicide:

Shreppy
06-08-2013, 12:11 PM
Let me start off by saying, THANK YOU!!!! By following the instructions i was able to install everything with ease, and it worked!

The only issue I am having is when I "Arm" the alarm, I get the normal chirp and then a horn honk. Is there a way to remove this horn honk? I am assuming its a setting, I have looked and have had zero luck.

Thank you in advance, and a big THANK YOU again for one of the best write ups I have seen.


Shreppy

fopoku2k2
06-13-2013, 08:24 AM
I've successfully installed my viper 3105v but i have three problems.

1. the system doesn't automatically arm the vehicle when i exit the vehicle
2. when i hit the body of the car i get the chirps for light impact. I'm wondering what heavy impact is
3. when i start the ignition the system does not lock my doors esp. the driver door

any help would be greatly appreciated.

thank you

craze_47
09-23-2013, 12:32 AM
Excuse me if someone has answered this before, but if my vehicle doesn't have a factory alarm do I still need the bypass module?