Stalling at idle [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: Stalling at idle


a_kraker99
07-26-2010, 09:16 AM
So I did some searching on this subject and it seems that everyone has had good luck with cleaning the TB. Everyone except for me.

I have taken off and thoroughly cleaned the TB and disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, but I still stall out at idle intermittently while the AC is on. Some days it runs fine all day but maybe once or twice a week the idle will drop to 200 and shoot up to 1000. Sometimes it even stalls out.

Someone said that there was a update for this in the PCM software but I just got a new PCM from PCMforless using the core program and had no luck. Does someone know if they for sure put the latest software updates using the core program?

a_kraker99
07-27-2010, 09:34 PM
Guess I stumped everyone :-(

Could it possibly be an o2 sensor issue?

SteveTB03
07-28-2010, 01:35 AM
Seafoam your vehicles engine.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=67067&highlight=seafoam

Don't worry about putting it in your oil or gas I consider it worthless to do but just put it in your brake booster put half a can in your brake booster line and your ebgine should die if it doesn't die turn it off and wait 20 minutes and then start it and go drive the TB Hard And fast to get the smoke out.

Make sure to plug the line back in and to not get a speeding ticket I hold no responsibility for mishaps and tickets.

a_kraker99
07-28-2010, 10:33 AM
I already seafoam through the brake booster every oil change.

a_kraker99
08-14-2010, 03:54 PM
So it seems to happen only when it is high 80's or above outside air temp. Any ideas?

pejeeper
08-14-2010, 10:11 PM
I am having the same issue, yet I cant find out anymore information or how to fix it.

apparently there is a TSB to cover this problem.

TSB # 3116

NHTSA Item #: 10010189



Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Service Bulletin Number : 3116 Date of Bulletin :
NHTSA Item Number : 10010189
Component : ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Summary :
ENGINE STALLS WHEN AIR CONDITIONING IS TURNED ON AT IDLE. (TO INCLUDE 2005 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER, 2005 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA, AND BUICK RAINIER) *SC UPDATED 01-26-07. *KB



thread from General forum

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=76659

Redbeard_in_FL
08-15-2010, 04:39 PM
Hello Pejeeper,

I may have stumbled onto the answer in another forum. I was unable to find out how to correct a service bulletin on the net. But this is a copy and paste from the other site. Seems to make sense, so tomorrow is my turn to see if this works or not. Also in a prior answer they mention the throttle body to be cleaned also. The other forum is "http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2004-chevy-trailblazer-rpm-drop-when-a-c-compressor-engages-vt94864.html". If anyone is able to lead me to locate the repair suggestions to the service bulletins it would be of help to me.
Best of luck,
Redbeard in tampa fl

" When you turn on the A/C, the A/C compressor kicks in. This puts a small load on the engine. The RPMs should go down a little. However, when you disconnected the battery, all the sensors that compensate for this load- lost power. The IAC valve can very easily cause the problem you describe and may need to be reset. To do this follow the following--1: disconnect and remove the IAC valve. 2: measure the distance from the tip of the pintle to the mounting flange. It should be 1 and 1/8 of an inch, if not push the pintle in so it is. 3: re-install the valve. 4: cycle the key on for 10 seconds and off for 10 seconds. This resets the valve. 5: Start the engine (do not press the gas) and let it idle for 5 minutes, then shut it off for 30 seconds. Then start the engine again and drive around for a while and test the A/C. During all these steps do not turn on the A/C until driving around during step 5. Let me know how you make out..
BTW: the IAC valve is the idle air control valve. This valve controls the amount of air allowed to bypass the throttle plate when the throttle plate is closed or at an idle position--not necessarily at engine idle--it's at throttle position idle."

the roadie
08-15-2010, 07:17 PM
I don't know where that forum got the text of that bulletin, but our engines don't have an IAC. The regular throttle body just stays open a tiny bit at idle.

But if it's dirty and needs cleaning, the stickiness causes all sorts of erratic idle problems.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/articles.php?do=viewarticle&artid=91

pejeeper
08-16-2010, 07:59 PM
Cleaned throttle body today, will see if it makes a difference with the stalling.

Still no info on correcting through the TSB?

Redbeard_in_FL
08-16-2010, 09:07 PM
I don't know where that forum got the text of that bulletin, but our engines don't have an IAC. The regular throttle body just stays open a tiny bit at idle.

But if it's dirty and needs cleaning, the stickiness causes all sorts of erratic idle problems.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/articles.php?do=viewarticle&artid=91

My error :(,
I should have thought and known of that since I already had the throttle body off when I cleaned it. I had cleaned the throttle body several weeks ago, but it was quite clean. Nothing like the images I had viewed on the forum. I cannot say that there is any difference in motor running. It runs fine. Only occasionally will it stall at idle which it did again after about 1/2 an hour after I had cleaned the throttle body. My wife just informed me that the trailblazer died on her today sitting at a red light coming home from work. She says nothing died inside the cab and no "extra" lights came on at that time and as normal it started right back up. I just checked for any codes, but none showed. Hopefully one day I will stumble across a solution to the stalling.
Redbeard in tampa fl.

pejeeper
08-17-2010, 09:09 AM
redbeard...call your local GM dealer and ask about Technical Service Bulletin 3116 for our Trailblazers...it relates to this exact problem.

I tried calling and asking but my local dealerships will not "diagnose" over the phone and do not give mechanical advice due to "liability"...which is code for we want you to bring it in and pay us.

DHodgson
08-30-2010, 03:59 PM
A bad MAP sensor can cause similar problems, I know my Trailblazer needs one and does similar things. Rough idoling, hestitation to go and a pulling/tugging feeling sometimes.

Redbeard_in_FL
08-30-2010, 06:05 PM
redbeard...call your local GM dealer and ask about Technical Service Bulletin 3116 for our Trailblazers...it relates to this exact problem.

I tried calling and asking but my local dealerships will not "diagnose" over the phone and do not give mechanical advice due to "liability"...which is code for we want you to bring it in and pay us.

Thanks pejeeper,
I called the dealership I purchased the trailblazer from and their attitude was the same as you received. Since I didn't have an extended warranty with GM they did not know if they "had time" to even look at it. After the sale of the trailblazer they don't much care about the customer. My extended warranty company would pay for any work done at the dealership but would prefer if it were done elsewhere. There is a large local shop who does fine work that said they could take care of the problem and my extended warranty company has worked with them before and gave me the "ok" to bring the trailblazer to the shop and "get'r fixed" before the extended warranty runs out-and that is about 1 year from now :) As soon as I have a few days open I will be heading to the shop and let them get their hands dirty instead of mine :) The local shop told me over the phone that Service bulletin 3116 is not uncommon and they have repaired this problem before so "bring it in" when I want it repaired. Thanks again for the update.
Redbeard in tampa fl

Redbeard_in_FL
08-30-2010, 06:57 PM
A bad MAP sensor can cause similar problems, I know my Trailblazer needs one and does similar things. Rough idoling, hestitation to go and a pulling/tugging feeling sometimes.

Hello DHodgson,
Might you know if the MAP sensor can be "tested"? Should my code reader (Code Scout 1500) show up a bad MAP sensor? Thanks for the info on a MAP sensor. I checked the prices of MAP sensors at RockAuto and most manufacturers were about $30 or so. At least it is not a "high" dollar part.
Thanks again for your input,
Redbeard in tampa fl

njezrider
08-30-2010, 11:19 PM
I have been going through the same problem for about 6 months now. I cant even use my AC anymore because of Stalling at Idle. wish we could get it nailed down. could this be more than one problem ?

Redbeard_in_FL
08-31-2010, 06:46 AM
I have been going through the same problem for about 6 months now. I cant even use my AC anymore because of Stalling at Idle. wish we could get it nailed down. could this be more than one problem ?

This stalling seems to be a headache for many TB owners and it seems that it may be more than one problem. There are several areas most owners recommend. Number one seems to be if there even seems to be any engine/transmission problems on a TB -clean the throttle body first. I cleaned my throttle body and it did not seem to help, but my throttle body was fairly clean. Searching the site regarding cleaning the throttle body and I see how dirty the photos show and it was easy to for me to see why the number 1 culprit is the throttle body. There are images and instructions on how to clean the throttle body on the site. With the instructions I found here the job was not difficult and did not take much time. Other areas of suggestion are various sensors, spark plugs, fuel filters, fuel injectors cleaning (mainly via gas additives like sea foam), fuel pressure regulators, bad catalytic converter (very low possibility for this idle stalling). For me I read through many of the forums to understand why the TB acts the way it does (stalling and other issues). There seems often to be more than just one item that affects the stalling when the a/c is on at idle. I started with the regular maintenance items first: plugs,fuel filter, sea foam in the gas, air filter, clean the throttle body etc. Before doing any work disconnect the battery. One for safety, but mainly to make the computer "reset or relearn" itself. Recently it was suggested it may be the MAP sensor. I want to do a little research about a MAP sensor and see if it can be diagnosed. I checked with RockAuto web site and this sensor runs about $30. RockAuto has good prices, various manufacturers of each item, and most have photos of the part. On my TB a code came up for bad thermostat. There are 3 different housings for my TB! The proverbial photo is worth a thousand words...My extended warranty expires in one year and the extended warranty company told me bring it to a shop and "get 'r fixed" before the warranty runs out. So this is probably what my next step will be - let someone else's hands get dirty. At least I will feel that at least a couple of dollars spent on extended warranty will be used. Hopefully if several of these small items are changed/cleaned will solve the stalling problem for you.
Redbeard in tampa fl

a_kraker99
09-09-2010, 04:06 PM
Has anyone had luck with the MAP sensor? I recently cleaned the throttle body thoroughly for the second time and I am still getting the fluctuating idle and occasional stall with the AC on. I notice a little bit of roughness when AC is off too but nothing too bad.

a_kraker99
09-14-2010, 01:30 PM
Tested my O2 sensor with good results. Unfortunately that means that I havent found the problem yet.
MAP voltage looked good. voltage fluctuated when the surging happened but I am assuming that was becasue of the surging, not causing it.

One weird thing that happened was when I disconnected the O2 sensor while running. The RPM's went up to about 900 and the idle RPM has not come down since doing that, even after plugging it back in and restarting the engine. Weird. I dont know if anyone is even looking at this thread anymore but I am out of ideas and I need help.
I have been having some problems with the ignition switch so I went ahead and ordered one hoping for a miracle cure to the idle issue.

DHodgson
09-14-2010, 01:36 PM
I'll ask my husband, he has done all the work on my trailblazer and might have an idea. I'll let you know what he says.

DHodgson
09-14-2010, 01:39 PM
We did replace the MAP sensor which was $58 at Autozone and my issues are totally gone. No more stalling at stop lights, rough idoling, ect.

a_kraker99
09-14-2010, 02:26 PM
We did replace the MAP sensor which was $58 at Autozone and my issues are totally gone. No more stalling at stop lights, rough idoling, ect.

Awesome, Maybe I will try that. Was your idle problem only with the AC on? Also, was it a rough idle or surging?

Redbeard_in_FL
09-14-2010, 08:30 PM
a_kraker99,

One thought....I wonder if the battery needs to be disconnected after "unplugging" the O2 sensor. I cannot reason why the battery would need to have the computer to reset, but it would be the cheapest thing to do. I cannot think for the slightest reason why the RPM would stay high. It does not make any sense. I have not made time to do anything to my wife's TB. My wife says she has not had to restart the engine in "some time." When I make some time I will look a bit further into what our TB will do.
One day we should have this problem fixed!
Redbeard in tampa fl

a_kraker99
09-14-2010, 09:00 PM
The idle is good now. I let everything cool down and it was fine when I started it back up.
I am starting to lean more towards the O2 sensor. The idle was fine for the first couple minutes after a cold start and then it started surging. How long does it take for a heated O2 sensor to start sending usable data? I am assuming that once it starts sending data is when my idle is going to crap. The voltages on the sensor looked great though. Going back and forth from around .1 to .8 pretty quickly.

Redbeard_in_FL
09-15-2010, 06:59 AM
The idle is good now. I let everything cool down and it was fine when I started it back up.
I am starting to lean more towards the O2 sensor. The idle was fine for the first couple minutes after a cold start and then it started surging. How long does it take for a heated O2 sensor to start sending usable data? I am assuming that once it starts sending data is when my idle is going to crap. The voltages on the sensor looked great though. Going back and forth from around .1 to .8 pretty quickly.

a_kraker99,
Thanks for passing your information along. When I check mine I will pass along any readings/observations I see.
Redbeard in tampa

05bigblkbus
09-15-2010, 08:48 AM
I wonder if the throttle body could be the culprit.

a_kraker99
09-15-2010, 09:18 AM
I wonder if the throttle body could be the culprit.

If you are referring to cleaning it, then no. I have cleaned it thoroughly 2 times. Thanks for the help though.
I have considered that fact that there might be an issue with the electronic throttle no responding well to the slight adjustments in idle mixture.

bitnerj
09-16-2010, 09:31 PM
a_kraker99,
Thanks for passing your information along. When I check mine I will pass along any readings/observations I see.
Redbeard in tampa

Redbeard,

We have the same problem on our trailblazer (my wife's vehicle) and she reminds me constantly of the vehicle stalling with the AC on at a stoplight. I have already cleaned the throttle body and the problem has not gone away. I also have replaced the fuel filter and the problem still exists. When you figure out this problem, please post because I'm sure 80% of the trailblazer owners with the 4.2L I6 will benefit from the solution we will come up with... Her vehicle died on her yet today 9/16/2010. Looking for a solution myself, no engine codes make this problem hard to diagnose... Seems like a common problem for all 4.2L trailblazer owners... Your help is appreciated... James

a_kraker99
09-16-2010, 10:16 PM
I just replaced upstream o2 sensor with good results so far. If you don't hear back from me you can assume the problem is cured.

a_kraker99
09-19-2010, 03:20 PM
Still running without any idle issues so far. The replacement was a Bosch O2 sensor, but after a couple of days I decided to return it and go with a AC Delco. The bosch was acting weird at idle. Slow warm up times and slow voltage fluctuations. The AC delco is much better. I learned my lesson to always stick with OEM.

Redbeard_in_FL
09-19-2010, 03:51 PM
Well...
I see you had problems with the bosch sensor. Formerly I used bosch products. This is one issue I had with spark plugs that I posted on another portion of TrailVoy. Hearing your issues with the sensor I am now a former customer of theirs.
Here's part of my story with them.

These plugs made the nissan idle Perfectly, but...
"The Bosch multi tip plugs did give me problems. The tips fell off and Toasted a valve in a Nissan Altima in 03 after several months of use. The engine ran great when first installed. Then the engine was not running nicely. When I pulled the plugs all four plugs had every tip missing! Sixteen TIPS MISSING! Never again will I purchase Bosch plugs.

It cost me a valve job due to a spark plug disintegrating :( Their idea sounds great and worked great for a little time. With one tip lodged into the valve and burning into it required me to do a valve job. Unbelievable. So it is Very Easy for me to believe any bad news pertaining to any parts they make. In the past we could count on bosch having good parts. But like many things in today's world their time has passed.

I appreciate you passing along the news of the supplier who doesn't work and who does. More and more it seems I am purchasing OEM parts.
Redbeard in tampa fl

bitnerj
09-22-2010, 09:48 PM
Well, my wife just told me about the voltage meter being left of center on her way home from work the other day. Then she said the voltage meter was way right of center >14V.

So I went ahead and replaced the alternator and battery. 120K miles on the original alternator and battery.

I'm not sure if this will help the stalling issue but i will keep you posted, this may have been a contributing factor?

Redbeard_in_FL
09-23-2010, 10:09 PM
hey bitnerj,

What may have caused the alternator to die is a bad battery. When the battery slowly stops taking a full charge the alternator has to work harder trying to charge the battery. After a bit of time the alternator is pushing 100% of its rated output - continuously. The alternator does not like the extra heat and running full out and then it dies. Everything may work fine during this time until the alternator goes and the battery has just barely kept up. With 120k on the battery I guess you have about have had the TB about 6-8 years. Yep its time for a new battery. I don't have luck with batteries here in florida. So I change my battery every two years whether I think (or test with a load meter) the battery is ok or not. My old nissan lost the alternator at 150k - due to a bad battery. That is when I started my two year routine. I sold the truck with 365k on the engine. The alternator gave me another 200k extra miles without any problems. My wallet says it is cheaper to replace a battery every two years than replace alternators (and the battery also!) at a later time. I have purchased high dollar batteries, ones with long warranties, and batteries that are larger than original equipment. I don't know if it is the heat or what, but the batteries (at least for me) are only good for 2 years and after that I am on borrowed time with the battery. So I change the battery. I had about another 13 or so years and 200k miles on the nissan without any incidents after changing to the two year routine.
This is what works for me. Anything that works for you is great. Just my thoughts from the peanut gallery.
redbeard in tampa fl

a_kraker99
09-28-2010, 10:53 AM
:suicide: I am back. The trailblazer stalled out on me again after thinking it was all fixed.
I am beginning to think it is a issue with the battery or ground. I am going to get the battery tested and clean all of my grounds.
The reason I am leaning towards the ground is that I am having an issue with my speedometer now. It is erratic above 55mph and there is a TSB out for it that pretty much describes my issue. Bulletin No.: 07-08-49-027

greeneyerocker
09-28-2010, 01:33 PM
I got the same problem the same day I changed my fan clutch. I have been looking for an answer ,to no avail. I bought another fan clutch and am going to install it tomorrow . I'll let you know if it is the problem. I was told it may be a sensor in the clutch wiring assembly. Idle only goes to 200 when a/c clutch kicks on.

Redbeard_in_FL
09-28-2010, 07:27 PM
Hey a_kraker99,

Excellent idea checking ALL of the grounds! The majority of electrical problems on low voltage (cars, telephone wiring, security systems, outdoor lighting) products is the ground. If we have a poor or bad ground going to the motor it might be the cause of some of the issues all of us have with stalling, idling rough, or hesitation. Um. The electrical connections can look good but actual in poor/bad shape. Wire brush, scrape, clean well. Bolt back into place. Often poor starting is a bad ground going to the engine block. (at least in "days of old"). Now I suspect it is time to locate all of the ground wires in the TB and begin cleaning :(:hissy::

a_kraker99
09-28-2010, 09:03 PM
the battery tested out fine. I cleaned the 3 grounds coming from the battery. There is one right by the battery on the fender, one on the back drivers side of the engine and one on the alternator. Let me know if I am missing any that should get cleaned. I also replaced the bolts that connect to the battery.
I will let you know how it goes. Maybe this time I will wait a little longer before celebrating.

a_kraker99
10-04-2010, 12:29 PM
:cry: I am at the end of options here. The TB started dropping RPM's at idle again yesterday. It is definately coming from an increased load from the compressor. It will actually drop in RPM's when I turn the steering wheel at a stop. Not as bad though. It hasn't stalled yet but it gets very close
The only other things I would want to try are expensive options that I would only do if I knew 100% that it was the issue. Possibly the fuel pump? I am not sure of this yet but it seems to only happen when the tank is less than half full. I have heard that can be a symtop of a fuel pump going bad.
Has anyone else noticed that theirs only has issues with a lower fuel level?

Redbeard_in_FL
10-04-2010, 03:53 PM
:cry: I am at the end of options here. The TB started dropping RPM's at idle again yesterday. It is definately coming from an increased load from the compressor. It will actually drop in RPM's when I turn the steering wheel at a stop. Not as bad though. It hasn't stalled yet but it gets very close
The only other things I would want to try are expensive options that I would only do if I knew 100% that it was the issue. Possibly the fuel pump? I am not sure of this yet but it seems to only happen when the tank is less than half full. I have heard that can be a symtop of a fuel pump going bad.
Has anyone else noticed that theirs only has issues with a lower fuel level?

hey a_kraker99,
I forgot to look at the other items you have looked at so I apologize if you did, and I believe you have,.... changed the fuel filter? Check if there are any "crimps" that are on the fuel hose/tubing that may restrict the fuel flow from the tank to the engine. Before giving up on the fuel pump check the pressure on the injector rail. Go through the forums and there is a simple way to check the pressure. It doesn't take much fuel to keep the engine running - with driving around town we go about 15 miles on 128 oz. and we probably only average about 30-40 mph, so that's 20 or 30 minutes of drive time. As for fuel pumps I have "burned" one up, but not on a TB. Often the fuel is used to help keep the pump cool. The longer a pump stay out of the fuel the warmer it is going to run and then the life of the pump is decreased. (I suspect you can guess how I learned this) As for me I do not let the tank get below 1/2 full. Hey....you mentioned that this happens at less than 1/2 of a tank - look for a fuel pump image -see if tubing reaching down into the tank to pick up the fuel. Should the pump be above the fuel any a pin hole leak would allow air into the fuel pick up tube and the pump may not draw 100% gasoline. That would cause fuel issues-like not enough fuel when the tank is less than 1/2 full (or where ever the fuel height vs hole may be)The possible pin hole would be higher than the fuel and the pump would/may not be able to overcome this. Also check to hear if the fuel pump is running - take the gas cap off to release any pressure in the tank. Have someone else to the key to on - it should not require to be running- and listen to hear if the pump runs. It should run until pressure builds up in the system. If not check for a relay that runs the pump (the hayes book says that there "may be" a fuse, but doesn't indicate where that may be) -the relay is in the engine compartment. The hayes book also mentions a screen on the fuel pump. Should this be clogged fuel pressure delivery and volume would be decrease, but it should not matter if the tank is 1/2 full or not. Check the fuel pressure on the injector rail next. See what happens at that point.
The more we have this problem the more I suspect we are overlooking something exceedingly simple. Some things which are not complicated are the most difficult to diagnosis. I am wondering if we have a hose loose somewhere letting in air or pushing it out -aka something simple.
Redbeard in tampa fl

2006m109r
10-25-2010, 09:16 PM
We did replace the MAP sensor which was $58 at Autozone and my issues are totally gone. No more stalling at stop lights, rough idoling, ect.

I'm curious if DHodgson's cure is still working and why others have not commented on that cure. Is there a way to test the sensor?

a_kraker99
10-25-2010, 10:48 PM
I'm curious if DHodgson's cure is still working and why others have not commented on that cure. Is there a way to test the sensor?

I tested mine. just google testing map sensors and it comes up with a lot of results.
I must have overlooked that post though. I would be curious to see if anyone else has tried replacing it and what results they got. I didn't replace mine because the voltages tested out good, but since it is an intermittent problem I may have just tested it when it was working good.
I am about sick of spending money on this problem so if anyone else wants to give it a shot I would love to hear the results. I think you can get them around $30 at rockauto.com
Hopefully we get this figured out for the 1% of us that didn't get their problem solved by cleaning the throttle body.

pejeeper
10-26-2010, 06:28 PM
I'm out of AC season, but have not had a stall since cleaning the throttle body

Redbeard_in_FL
10-28-2010, 07:27 PM
Last night the TB stalled on my wife. It is still a/c time in Tampa and it was going full tilt. I ordered a MAP sensor and it should be here in a few days. It tested out fine, but as mentioned it may have test OK when it was working properly and not at a faulty time. I am now thinking that the MAP sensor is not doing a good job during the hot times. The A/C will run about 1-2 months still, but, but it will be cool outside. It has been several months since the last time it stalled out, BUT yesterday it was 90 degrees (and above 90% humidity) and when it has stalled in the past the heat outside has been high.
Wait and see.
Redbeard in tampa fl

a_kraker99
10-28-2010, 07:46 PM
Keep us up to date on if it helped out at all. It is past AC season here in Michigan but I still have the problem occasionally. I have climate control and the compressor will always cycle unless you hit the a/c off button. I know on vehicles without A/C the compressor will still cycle on defrost modes.
I will have my fingers crossed hoping that it works out for you. Let us know what happens.

a_kraker99
11-02-2010, 04:17 PM
any update on the MAP sensor redbeard?

Redbeard_in_FL
11-03-2010, 05:54 AM
Hello a_kraker99,

The map sensor arrived Monday. I am planning to install it tomorrow (Wednesday) after my wife returns from work. I wish hot weather would come our way after installing the sensor to see if the ambient hot air is giving us problems with the stalling (and the map sensor not reading correctly), but cooler weather is heading this way. For us that means in the 50's at night and 70's in the daytime in Tampa. I will post updates on any changes I notice with the new sensor.

Redbeard

a_kraker99
11-03-2010, 09:30 PM
Hello a_kraker99,

The map sensor arrived Monday. I am planning to install it tomorrow (Wednesday) after my wife returns from work. I wish hot weather would come our way after installing the sensor to see if the ambient hot air is giving us problems with the stalling (and the map sensor not reading correctly), but cooler weather is heading this way. For us that means in the 50's at night and 70's in the daytime in Tampa. I will post updates on any changes I notice with the new sensor.

Redbeard

Just run the front defrost. That will cycle your compressor

Redbeard_in_FL
11-12-2010, 11:36 AM
Just run the front defrost. That will cycle your compressor:)

Hello a_kraker99,

Well the sensor has been in about 1 week and no issues, but the stalling has not been "regularly" happening lately. What I did notice was that the sensor had a bit of oily residue on it or if this is normal. I have not looked into why it might have some oil on it. It was not much, but just enough to wipe off when looking at it. The amount was about if we sprayed WD-40 over it quickly and the oil was just as clean. So I would like to see what might cause this light oil film. GM is good about running the A/C with the defrost on. My wife and I have a slight disagreement as to the A/C being on in the defrost mode, but she refuses to look under the hood to see the compressor engage. GM has done this as long as I have worked on them. I have had a vehicle that the a/c did not cycle on with the defroster and it made the defroster totally worthless. Time will tell if this little sensor might be the culprit of the stalling engines. I will keep you informed.

Redbeard in tampa fl

a_kraker99
11-12-2010, 11:50 AM
I look forward to seeing your results. When you say that there is oil on the sensor are you talking about the new sensor or old one? If you are talking about the old one I asusme that it is probably blow-by gases from the crank case. The same stuff that makes our throttle bodies dirty.

Redbeard_in_FL
11-12-2010, 01:58 PM
The oil was on the old sensor. It probably is just blow by. When I cleaned the throttle body it looked clean and nothing like the images seen elsewhere on the site. Had it been a carburetor I wouldn't have wasted any time cleaning it. The inside of the butterfly was nearly as shiny as the exterior side of the butterfly. As easy as it is to clean the throttle body, and as much problems it can cause, there is no reason not to clean it.

redbeard in tampa fl

jmk621
11-12-2010, 11:49 PM
I have an 03 ltz and I have done everything but replace the map sensor. Maybe I will give it a try. This vehicle has been nothing but a nickle and dime ya to death POS!!!!! Its such a shame cuz its a great looking vehicle but alas General Motors continues to ive american made vehicles a bad rap!!!!!

Heres a list of some of the work I have done so far and mind you I bought it with 40k on it 3 years ago.

Both front wheel bearings.
New u joints
new coils packs
all new brakes
new rear bearings
Struts/Shocks


I mean seriously if I knoew GM was gonna be this shabby I would have gone to a Ford!!!!!!!!

Just another dissapointed Trailblazer owner :no:

WOOLUF1952
11-13-2010, 02:20 AM
I have an 03 ltz and I have done everything but replace the map sensor. Maybe I will give it a try. This vehicle has been nothing but a nickle and dime ya to death POS!!!!! Its such a shame cuz its a great looking vehicle but alas General Motors continues to ive American made vehicles a bad rap!!!!!

Heres a list of some of the work I have done so far and mind you I bought it with 40k on it 3 years ago.

Both front wheel bearings.
New u joints
new coils packs
all new brakes
new rear bearings
Struts/Shocks


I mean seriously if I knoew GM was gonna be this shabby I would have gone to a Ford!!!!!!!!

Just another dissapointed Trailblazer owner :no:


How many miles are on it now?

This truck sounds like it was rode hard and put up wet.

For front and rear bearings and u-joints to go bad (depending on mileage), IMHO, someone was beating on it.:m2:

jmk621
11-13-2010, 09:07 AM
My LTZ has 90k on it now. I drive highway miles every day to work so its not beat on. The only beaten it will take is when it is loaded up with a canoe and kyaks. Perhaps the previous owner was a maniac or something. Most of the repairs I have done were chasing ghosts like vibrations and crunching noises and now an irradic idle and stalling at stops!!!Oh an did I mention that the actuators are bad also!!!! Basically best looking P.O.S ever!!!:suicide:

Redbeard_in_FL
11-13-2010, 09:09 PM
My LTZ has 90k on it now. I drive highway miles every day to work so its not beat on. The only beaten it will take is when it is loaded up with a canoe and kyaks. Perhaps the previous owner was a maniac or something. Most of the repairs I have done were chasing ghosts like vibrations and crunching noises and now an irradic idle and stalling at stops!!!Oh an did I mention that the actuators are bad also!!!! Basically best looking P.O.S ever!!!:suicide:


Hey jmk621,

I understand where you are coming from. I know some parts are wear items, but not nearly this early in the TB life or any car/truck. U-joints, rear bearings the rear ends should last 200-400k miles without any problems.
My next project to to replace the "motor" that runs the Tach. From the images on the site it should make the job much easier and then I can look for a bad speaker wire going to the drivers door (thank goodness my wife isn't a complainer- the speaker has been out for about 4 years-and we had purchased it new) But like you mention it is one item giving us grief at a time. The tranny required a complete overhaul at 15k mileage primarily highway mileage. That is when I lost much confidence in the vehicle.
One friend of mine also replaced his rear bearing and now the differential is starting to make noise with about 70k miles.

I will pass along any info on the "next" problem the TB gives me.

Redbeard in tampa fl

jmk621
11-14-2010, 08:53 PM
Aside from all the nickle and diming I love the looks of my LTZ!!! It is by far the best looking truck I have ever owned. You cant go wrong with black and tan leather!!!!! I just put new tires on yesterday. Bridgestone duellers!! Ride has improve 10 fold from the goodyears that were on there. Now If I can just get the rest of the lil things ironed out then perhaps I will be able to get through the holidays without worrying if my trucks gonna die on the way to visit the rest of the family.:bonk:

Riddlebox0333
11-16-2010, 11:24 AM
Im having a similar problem. The truck idles at 500 rpm and when I go to accelerate it drops really low or stalls with or without the ac on. I just changed the fuel filter, cleaned the TB and spacer and recharged my air filter. No codes are comming up on my scanner either.

Redbeard_in_FL
11-26-2010, 03:08 PM
any update on the MAP sensor redbeard?

a_kraker99,

Engine stalled yesterday. The map sensor has been in about 3 weeks or so. Average temps mid 70's, average humidity, idling fine - until it stalled - a/c running full blast. I am thinking of placing a mechanical device like the carburetors had for choking. If I can idle a couple hundred rpm more maybe the motor can "catch" itself before stalling. I have no reason to believe I need to disconnect the battery for the map sensor, but a few minutes ago (after I wrote about this same thing) I disconnected the battery anyway. I have nothing to lose by doing so...so I did. Again time will tell. Anything new I shall pass along.
Redbeard

the stalling came at 10 miles short of 89k miles.

:)

Hello a_kraker99,

Well the sensor has been in about 1 week and no issues, but the stalling has not been "regularly" happening lately. What I did notice was that the sensor had a bit of oily residue on it or if this is normal. I have not looked into why it might have some oil on it. It was not much, but just enough to wipe off when looking at it. The amount was about if we sprayed WD-40 over it quickly and the oil was just as clean. So I would like to see what might cause this light oil film. GM is good about running the A/C with the defrost on. My wife and I have a slight disagreement as to the A/C being on in the defrost mode, but she refuses to look under the hood to see the compressor engage. GM has done this as long as I have worked on them. I have had a vehicle that the a/c did not cycle on with the defroster and it made the defroster totally worthless. Time will tell if this little sensor might be the culprit of the stalling engines. I will keep you informed.

Redbeard in tampa fl

martenshockey
12-03-2010, 02:21 PM
I'm having the same problem as described in this thread. 2002 Trailblazer, 136k will stall and die while sitting at a light and doesn't give a code. My intake is clean so that's not the culperate. Sounds like the MAP sensor has not been proven to be the solution, I've read some other forums stating that installing a new cam solenoid solved the problem, another forum stated that the O2 sensor was sending data to slowly so once it was replaced it ran fine.

Has anyone with this problem tried the O2 sensor or cam solenoid? If so did it fix the problem?

Thanks!

Redbeard_in_FL
12-03-2010, 05:06 PM
I'm having the same problem as described in this thread. 2002 Trailblazer, 136k will stall and die while sitting at a light and doesn't give a code. My intake is clean so that's not the culperate. Sounds like the MAP sensor has not been proven to be the solution, I've read some other forums stating that installing a new cam solenoid solved the problem, another forum stated that the O2 sensor was sending data to slowly so once it was replaced it ran fine.

Has anyone with this problem tried the O2 sensor or cam solenoid? If so did it fix the problem?

Thanks!

martenshockey,

Others on the site have tried both the o2 sensors and camshaft sensor, but to no avail. I tried going through the posts to locate the others who have changed these, but was unable to locate them today. I tried the MAP sensor since it made the most sense (to me) to cause the stalling issue and it was was one of the last suggestions made. It was about 10 days ago since the last time it stalled so I am still searching for the culprit to the stalling. (I believe it was about a month ago the MAP sensor was changed)

zooZYyork
12-09-2010, 09:12 PM
martenshockey,

Others on the site have tried both the o2 sensors and camshaft sensor, but to no avail. I tried going through the posts to locate the others who have changed these, but was unable to locate them today. I tried the MAP sensor since it made the most sense (to me) to cause the stalling issue and it was was one of the last suggestions made. It was about 10 days ago since the last time it stalled so I am still searching for the culprit to the stalling. (I believe it was about a month ago the MAP sensor was changed)

have you had any stalling problems since replacing the Map sensor? My 02 tb with 149,000 on it just stalled for the first time today but the rpms have been randomly dropping for 2 months and the 2 mechanics i tool it to had no clue. if the MAP sensor worked for you i tihnk im going to go that route. thanks

Redbeard_in_FL
12-10-2010, 04:46 PM
have you had any stalling problems since replacing the Map sensor? My 02 tb with 149,000 on it just stalled for the first time today but the rpms have been randomly dropping for 2 months and the 2 mechanics i tool it to had no clue. if the MAP sensor worked for you i tihnk im going to go that route. thanks

This TB stalled about 3 weeks after the map sensor was changed. The old map sensor tested out ok. (there is a link on this site to u-tube showing how to hookup a V.O.M. meter and checking it out) My "gut" feeling is that the map sensor is not part of the problem. Since this stalling is intermittent it is a bit more difficult to diagnose :( I'm just back scratch'n my head with this stalling.

Redbeard in tampa florida

Riddlebox0333
12-11-2010, 02:50 PM
I finally took mine to the dealership because my buddy hooked me up with a $20.00 diagnosis. They said it was the fuel pump, They checked the pressure and it took a while for it to build up again. As soon as they put the gauge on, the idle changed. So I paid $250.00 for a fuel pump and I'm going to install it myself in a few minutes. I'll let you know the result.

Redbeard_in_FL
12-11-2010, 05:54 PM
I finally took mine to the dealership because my buddy hooked me up with a $20.00 diagnosis. They said it was the fuel pump, They checked the pressure and it took a while for it to build up again. As soon as they put the gauge on, the idle changed. So I paid $250.00 for a fuel pump and I'm going to install it myself in a few minutes. I'll let you know the result.

Hey Riddlebox,

I am wondering if it is your fuel pump when it "took a while to build up (pressure)". What is the pressure after it builds up and while the engine is under load -like driving down the street? This sounds like a clogged or dirty fuel filter. It will take a bit of time for the fuel pump to push past a clogged or dirty fuel filter. Also were the relays for the pump checked? All electrical connections checked going to the pump checked? I am not trying to sound harsh, but before anybody drops $250. I would like to check less costly items going to the pump (electric) and fuel going to the engine first. Did the dealership mention or ask if the fuel filter has been changed? Or offer? The Stealerships in this part of the country are not trustworthy and I could see them telling someone to replace a more expensive item and not properly diagnosis a problem. Hopefully this will take care of the problem. Don't forget a new fuel filter while your under there working. My filter only took a few minutes to change. It looked difficult to change, but it turned out to very very easy after you see how the fuel fitting connect.


redbeard in tampa florida:m2:

Some years back, and I don't recall if this was trailblazer problem, but some GM trucks have a fuel filter on the bottom inside of the fuel tank
that very rarely becomes plugged. This in not the same as the in line fuel filter we replace.

Riddlebox0333
12-16-2010, 09:33 PM
Just put a new fuel filter in a week ago. I'm not sure what the pressure was. I put the new fuel pump in and it did not fix the problem. At 150k I'm sure it could be replaced. My wifes cousin works at the dealership. I paid $20 for the diag. and $250 for the pump, did the labor myself. I'm at a loss. I really dont want to keep throwing money at this when it could be a $40.00 fix (hopefully).

ReconDrill
12-17-2010, 06:40 AM
Just put a new fuel filter in a week ago. I'm not sure what the pressure was. I put the new fuel pump in and it did not fix the problem. At 150k I'm sure it could be replaced. My wifes cousin works at the dealership. I paid $20 for the diag. and $250 for the pump, did the labor myself. I'm at a loss. I really dont want to keep throwing money at this when it could be a $40.00 fix (hopefully).

Have you changed the O2 sensors? I did, but used a Bosh universal one...bad results. Use OEM O2 sensors. I had bad problems with RPM fluxuation/stalling...O2 sensor was the issue, after the dealership replaced over 4K of parts on my TB (at no charge to me!!)

a_kraker99
01-11-2011, 04:18 PM
ReconDrill, I replaced my O2 sensors with OEM with no luck.


So Redbeard, I don't know if I already asked you this, but how old is your battery? I am beginning to think that the battery is the culprit in mine. I let the Trailblazer sit for 4 days because we were driving another car, and the car wouldn't even crank over. It is cold here, but I don't think it should be dieing that quickly. I had the battery tested at autozone a couple months ago but they said it was fine. I don't really trust them anymore....

Redbeard_in_FL
01-12-2011, 08:17 AM
ReconDrill, I replaced my O2 sensors with OEM with no luck.


So Redbeard, I don't know if I already asked you this, but how old is your battery? I am beginning to think that the battery is the culprit in mine. I let the Trailblazer sit for 4 days because we were driving another car, and the car wouldn't even crank over. It is cold here, but I don't think it should be dieing that quickly. I had the battery tested at autozone a couple months ago but they said it was fine. I don't really trust them anymore....

Kraker99,

This battery was purchased in May 2010 from a local battery company. I purchase new batteries every two years. I don't know why but the batteries seem to last 24 months and after that I am on borrowed time. I have bought the 8 year batteries and the elcheapos and I get 24 months of work from them. I usually purchase a 5-6 year battery or ask what the battery man suggests. I have learned that when batteries start to become weak the alternator tries to make up for it. After some time the alternator can/will burn up trying to run at full amperage 100% of the time and an expensive alternator needs replacement. Cheaper to change the battery than alternators. Batteries are cheaper. But you are exactly right in pointing fingers to the battery. If the battery is weak and the engine is idling not much current left to the ignition system to keep the engine running. If your truck won't turn over after several days of sitting and the terminal have been taken off any cleaned (even if the connections between the battery and cable looks fine) then find someone who has a DC amp meter (an AC amp meter will not read properly)that can show 200-500 amps. You can check the starting amps Plus the charging current to the battery. It is easy to read voltage, but that is only 10% of the checking. We need to see how much "power" , aka Amperage, is coming to the battery from the alternator. The batteries in today's car/trucks use so much electricity that the alternator and the battery has a huge demand placed on them and if both are not up to the task the culprit needs repair or replacement. You mention the cold weather you have. Batteries lose most of their power at low temperatures. I have asked my northern friends and relatives this question-have you ever placed a light or other heat source near the battery? The warm battery will have more amperage than a cold one. I don't know if my theory is good about warming the battery but it would make a good test. Need a way to confine the warmth to the battery. (This may be a difficult trial and error, but hey - if the engine will not turn over you have "extra" time on your hands to find out what will work. Your probably are at 20 degrees below zero and snow bound anyhow) The oil also needs to flow. Conventional oils don't flow well or not at all at the lower extreme temperatures. Good stuff (synthetic) flows at nearly any temperature making it easier to crank the engine on cold days. With you fighting the cold weather the battery needs to be at 100%. Much less and it probably time to purchase a new battery. As for me I lost all trust at autozone with several bad parts and…. the last straw was them NOT honoring their OWN $20 coupon:hissy: I had $100 in parts in front of me at their register checking out and they would not honor their own coupon:mad:. Anyways….

Redbeard

in tampa florida

05bigblkbus
01-12-2011, 01:03 PM
so, mine had several problems at once. The symptoms were, stalling, vibration at idle and in park, as well as in gear. no vibration in neutral. Turns out I replaced several parts. The tensioner pulley was bad. I am on my third one in a year. This last one is oem. You could move it with your hand. Then I replaced the motor mounts (both - also oem, just in case) the passenger side one sounded like something was broke off inside when you shook it (after it was off the car). The drivers side seemed ok, but for the price, and not knowing which was worse off, I just did both. Then finally the idiot light went on and it had a code p0014 which indicated the crank sensor. When I pulled it out it was nasty with oil. sprayed it off with carb cleaner, changed the oil and filter and put it back in. runs like a new car! no vibrations, stalls or shakes. Seems like problem solved - for now.

zooZYyork
01-12-2011, 11:02 PM
so, mine had several problems at once. The symptoms were, stalling, vibration at idle and in park, as well as in gear. no vibration in neutral. Turns out I replaced several parts. The tensioner pulley was bad. I am on my third one in a year. This last one is oem. You could move it with your hand. Then I replaced the motor mounts (both - also oem, just in case) the passenger side one sounded like something was broke off inside when you shook it (after it was off the car). The drivers side seemed ok, but for the price, and not knowing which was worse off, I just did both. Then finally the idiot light went on and it had a code p0014 which indicated the crank sensor. When I pulled it out it was nasty with oil. sprayed it off with carb cleaner, changed the oil and filter and put it back in. runs like a new car! no vibrations, stalls or shakes. Seems like problem solved - for now.

How much did all this cost you? i dont really know how to fix anything on a vehicle so i leave it to the "pros"


For the people that have changed something and said it has fixed the prob, is the problem still fixed?

Redbeard_in_FL
01-21-2011, 04:01 PM
My TB stalled on my wife this week. The throttle body has been cleaned, the map sensor replaced, fuel filter, and new plugs. It has been several months since it has stalled and I thought it might be due to the heat in Florida. The a/c had been on in the past when it stalled, but this time the weather was not a factor and the a/c was not on. The only difference this time my wife said there was a "vibration" just before it stalled. Next month the TB will be free for a couple of days and I will check the motor mounts and the belt tensioner. The belt was changed out 13 months ago and at that time the tensioner felt fine. I will pass any info along after I look at it next month.

redbeard
in tampa florida


For the people that have changed something and said it has fixed the prob, is the problem still fixed?[/QUOTE]

04Ascen
02-14-2011, 10:35 PM
I've been reading the posts that everyone has posted and my problems all started after i changed the thermostat (P128) on my Ascender, same model as TB, made by GM. I noticed the problem the day after i changed the thermostat on my way to work while i was idle at a light. It was a rainy morning and my windows began to fog, so i turned on the defrost and noticed my lights flicker, rough idle and finally it shut off, but all the lights and radio were on. I started it up again with continued rough idle then turned off the radio and defrost, then everything was fine. I still have the same issue and just don't use the defrost, but i want to fix this to not cause my truck anymore strain or any issues that can damage my truck. I spoke to my boss about my issue and he suggested i check the solenoid/switch on the throttle body that kicks on once the compressor kicks on to maintain a smootch idle to compensate for the drag in power. He suggested that i hot wire the solenoid/switch with a wire from the positive terminal the the switch and if it's good, then it should pop up to keep the throttle body slightly open. I haven't tested this theory because I haven't had the time to work on my truck, but i figure it's worth a shot and worth looking investigating.

I don't know if this would be beneficial, but many people have tried many things with no luck, i figure this couldn't be a bad thing.

If anyone tests this theory, please post results and i will try it out as soon as i have the time.

the roadie
02-14-2011, 11:29 PM
If anyone tests this theory, ...It's not a theory that can be tested because we have no such solenoid. The engine computer handles the idle and it knows when the AC compressor kicks on because it handles the AC clutch signal.

You've described perfectly the situation of a dirty throttle body. Just clean it.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/articles.php?do=viewarticle&artid=91

04Ascen
02-15-2011, 10:41 AM
Sounds good, I will clean it this weekend when i have more time and wash my truck.

Thanks for looking out Roadie. :thumbsup:

nardorankin
02-21-2011, 06:39 PM
I've been reading the posts that everyone has posted and my problems all started after i changed the thermostat (P128) on my Ascender, same model as TB, made by GM. I noticed the problem the day after i changed the thermostat on my way to work while i was idle at a light. It was a rainy morning and my windows began to fog, so i turned on the defrost and noticed my lights flicker, rough idle and finally it shut off, but all the lights and radio were on. I started it up again with continued rough idle then turned off the radio and defrost, then everything was fine. I still have the same issue and just don't use the defrost, but i want to fix this to not cause my truck anymore strain or any issues that can damage my truck. I spoke to my boss about my issue and he suggested i check the solenoid/switch on the throttle body that kicks on once the compressor kicks on to maintain a smootch idle to compensate for the drag in power. He suggested that i hot wire the solenoid/switch with a wire from the positive terminal the the switch and if it's good, then it should pop up to keep the throttle body slightly open. I haven't tested this theory because I haven't had the time to work on my truck, but i figure it's worth a shot and worth looking investigating.

I don't know if this would be beneficial, but many people have tried many things with no luck, i figure this couldn't be a bad thing.

If anyone tests this theory, please post results and i will try it out as soon as i have the time.

I've had the same problem with my defrost stalling the engine at idle. I cleaned the throttle body today and replaced all the spark plugs also since they have 135k on them and everything was already apart. Started up the truck, turned on the defrost, and no more stalling issue and no more codes popping up. The whole process took about 2 1/2 hours.

04Ascen
02-22-2011, 09:20 AM
I've had the same problem with my defrost stalling the engine at idle. I cleaned the throttle body today and replaced all the spark plugs also since they have 135k on them and everything was already apart. Started up the truck, turned on the defrost, and no more stalling issue and no more codes popping up. The whole process took about 2 1/2 hours.

Thanks for the verification of cleaning the T.B., I haven't had the chance to clean the T.B., but will most definitely get to it this weekend when I do some work on my brakes. Thanks again to Roadie and Nardorankin. :thumbsup:

zooZYyork
06-19-2011, 12:08 PM
ok so any new info on here? has anybody tried anything new? did it work? i just ordered an upstream 02, and a cps. should i order the map sensor also? just for sh*ts and gigs?

zooZYyork
06-19-2011, 01:14 PM
Has anybody used Walker products? if so what is you opinion on them? better than bosch? better than delco?

the roadie
06-19-2011, 02:53 PM
Has anybody used Walker products? Walker makes sensors? I thought they were cats and mufflers and pipes only.

Got a link?

A quick trailvoy search reveals NO discussion about Walker in a sensor context at all.

zooZYyork
06-19-2011, 05:52 PM
Walker makes sensors? I thought they were cats and mufflers and pipes only.

Got a link?

A quick trailvoy search reveals NO discussion about Walker in a sensor context at all.

My buddy works for autoparts international and he said thats what he can get me.

but heres a diff place.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?PN=975&VN=+4294966993+4294963986&N=0&Nr=AND(make:Chevrolet,part:Oxygen+Sensor,model:Tra ilblazer,universal:0)&refType=Brand&refValue=Walker+Products

zooZYyork
07-08-2011, 09:18 AM
I am going to install my upsteram 02 and my cps today, hope this fixes the problem. ill report back. Should i disconnect my battery? i read a couple of post where people replaced 02's and they did it.............?

forgotten
07-11-2011, 08:14 PM
Just want to add what i did.

new alternator, battery, plugs, idler pulley,cleaned tb, cleaned air filter, cleaned intake sensor, new ignition switch, secondary air injection system solenoid.

Im going to try tstat (getting a low temp coolant code every now and again)
new coils
new cam sensor
new map, new o2 sensors.
and maybe some seafoam.
rad fan is a little wobbely, maybe a fan clutch?

kdmac
07-13-2011, 07:30 PM
My wifes o5 envoy does the same thing from time to time. We have noticed on hers though it only stall when the fuel level is really low. Ive told her to keep around 1/2 tank and so far so good.

Redbeard_in_FL
07-13-2011, 07:46 PM
My wifes o5 envoy does the same thing from time to time. We have noticed on hers though it only stall when the fuel level is really low. Ive told her to keep around 1/2 tank and so far so good.



How long has it been that it has not stalled with your tank half empty (or half full)?
My wife's trailblazer stays above half and it still occasionally stalls. It has been "some" time since the last stall thank goodness. I was starting to believe in was the Florida temp and humidity causing the problem, but the stalling has occurred all different temperatures/humidity. The only parts which have not been changed or cleaned (Throttle body) are the 02 sensors.


redbeard in tampa

kdmac
07-14-2011, 06:19 PM
Its only done it for me once and that was mon. The gas needle was on e and i have filled up and it hasnt done again yet. The wife told me every time its done it to her the needle was on or near empty. I am a mechanic by trade so i'm goona try to figure out why and what causes it to stall intermittantly like this.

namnik
10-07-2011, 07:29 PM
First, THANK YOU to everyone who posted giving ideas.

My ignition switch went out last Sunday and I turned on the air conditioner after fixing and an extremely hard idle started occurring.

Logged in and saw the posts for throttle cleaning...did as you all suggested and so far so good.

What a pain in the rear - I was told that it was a bad valve, air conditioner compressor was bad, alternator was dieing, water pump - NOPE to none of the specialists!

5 dollar can of cleaner and good council from you all. Thanks.

jake1
02-15-2014, 03:04 PM
Many forums with very little useful information! The bottom line is the majority of problems that our beloved TB's are having is poorly written software code, Chevy in this case rushed and botched the job. They did not bother too test the code properly. On the other hand hardware and electronics have a sold track record. Woe on too those that write code!