[SOLVED] Radiator Removal 2003 GMC Envoy [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: [SOLVED] Radiator Removal 2003 GMC Envoy


KCEnvoy
11-21-2010, 10:32 PM
I felt compelled to detail my adventure today to replace my fan clutch and idler pulleys.....

I looked it up in the forums and found great articles that encouraged me to fix the jet engine under the hood. The failure mode of ticking that became more constant over time and then the intermittent jet sound and then finally...constant jet sound with loss of power. I also had a noisy idler so I thought I would get them all at one time!

I gathered the parts recommended on Trailvoy, bought the correct tools to remove the belt and the fan clutch nut. Even looked up some discount coupons for Advanced Auto Parts and used them to save $50! Used the cable trick to keep the pulley from turning when using the special nut wrench for the fan clutch.

Well....this is where it started to go down hill...LOL. third smack with the hammer on the special wrench...it deflected bounced and hit the plastic filler neck of the "plastic" radiator top. BANG off it came clean as could be! Sheared off!

First thought was - Hell...I can epoxy that bitch back on....then reality set in. I will need a new radiator. Ok..keep going - NEXT SMACK on that wrench the nut came loose! Ok...all came out, fixed the pulleys, put the belt back on.

NOW...to remove the radiator. (Yes, you can remove the radiator without removing the AC condenser.)

1. Follow all the instructions on Trailvoy to remove the fan clutch! This will get you most of the way there. Next, this is what I had to do to get the radiator off.

2. Remove front grill - For Envoy pull out at the top - it is retained by clips. At the bottom there are tabs in slots so be careful when pulling on the grill - pull at the top only and then tilt forward and lift out. Easy does it here.

3. Remove the hood latch - 3 bolts. Remember to mark the position with a scribe or marker before removal so you can line up the hood latch during reinstall. Pull off to the side out of the way.

4. Remove lower radiator hose from radiator. (I used vise grips to compress the clamp). Remove all electrical connectors from radiator frame.

5. Remove radiator bracket in front of radiator and condenser. It is a large rubber retainer with a metal frame on top of the radiator - it is held on with three bolts - 2 thru the radiator support up top and 1 at the bottom center of the bracket (this is why you need to take off the grill)

6. Remove leather/fabric side shields - this was very difficult and required a long flat screw driver to pry the flaps up and over their retainer tabs.

7. Remove angle brace connected to fender & battery box. (2) bolts (1) nut

8. Remove the radiator support bar that goes over the top of the radiator (4) bolts. This will give you access to the two bolts connecting the condenser to the radiator. Remove the two bolts.

9. Now you can tilt and separate the radiator and condenser. There are two tabs at the bottom of the radiator and the condenser has two plates that fit into the tabs. Lift the condenser up and out of the tabs - you wont be able to lift it too high since the condenser still has all the AC lines connected to it.

10. With the condenser separated form the radiator, pull the radiator up and out of the engine compartment. The condenser will be held in place by the AC lines.

I hope this helps. Sorry I did not get pictures. I will take them on reassembly and add to this post.

jimmyjam
11-21-2010, 10:49 PM
it deflected bounced and hit the plastic filler neck of the "plastic" radiator top. BANG off it came clean as could be! Sheared off!
First thought was - Hell...I can epoxy that bitch back on....then reality set in. I will need a new radiator.
lol i cracked the inlet tube as well when changing motor mounts... also echoed your subsequent thought process and came to the same conclusion :o

not having to remove the condenser makes it that much easier, wasn't too bad a job to replace the rad