Hit a Curb at 15 and now some issues [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

: Hit a Curb at 15 and now some issues


surjones
02-07-2011, 03:23 PM
Hey Everyone,

This sort of goes in a couple sections, so mods if there is a better place, please move it.


We were going 15mph around a curve and I couldn't pull out of it, but I did make it so I could sort of pop up the curb while driving. Didn't want to break the whole suspension.

Drove great, except the fact I could totally feel the alignment was off. Well After church we were kind of stuck on down slope. And a friend pulled us out, and when I was trying to get out I felt the steering wheel feel like there is no power steering. Still feels like I have no power steering, and on the Right side there is a boot behind the Spindle and there is a greenish/yellowish grease all around that area, like it exploded or something.

Any thoughts?

thanks guys!

ilikemy3s
02-07-2011, 03:30 PM
Any pics? chances are you busted the CV joint / axel.

:m2:

jpfeffer
02-07-2011, 03:37 PM
My first thought was the CV too, but the ones I've seen blow up usually have a darker grease in them. Intermediate steering shafts are sort of a known issue with the full sized Chevys and the NYE grease suggested as a temporary fix for the ISS is a greenish yellowish color as described. However, I'm assuming by "right side" you meant passenger side of the vehicle as opposed to the right side of the front driver's side wheel, which would be a more likely location for the ISS.

When I blew the CV in my AWD Audi, I never felt anything funny in the steering, it just made a strange noise from time to time, like a clunking, but maybe yours is still partially connected and causing steering issues (I'd think it would seize up or hinder turning radius though rather than making it more difficult to steer). Pics would be wonderful though!

the roadie
02-07-2011, 04:19 PM
You could have bent a tie rod end, and the wheels pointing in different directions increases the steering effort.

Amny reason it isn't already in a shop with a lift for a safety inspection? A bent tie rod end could break, and you can guess what that does to your steering accuracy when one wheel does what it wants. Happened to me twice offroad so far.

surjones
02-08-2011, 02:42 AM
Hey Guys,

Thanks for the response. When I body slammed the curb it was on the passenger side. These picture are from the drives side.

Here is something I didnt get to mention in my initial post. The sway bar link was bad about 7 months ago, so I replaced with a lifetime replacement piece from Napa. (I installed easily enough) Well no joke yesterday I went and looked at it cause it's been chattering again and I look and IT WAS GONE.. SNAPPED and only thing left was the bottom bolt. So the pic you see is the new sway bar link I put in today (again pics of the driver side, and I curb checked the passenger) (The passenger side, everything looks normal, to my eyes)

thoughts?

surjones
02-08-2011, 07:48 PM
Any Thoughts?

jacob789456
02-08-2011, 07:53 PM
That would definately be a ripped CV boot!

surjones
02-08-2011, 08:55 PM
And do you think this would cause the Power Steering to go out?

Simon01
02-08-2011, 09:54 PM
And do you think this would cause the Power Steering to go out?

No, a ripped boot on a CV shaft will not cause increased steering effort. As others have said, you probably have a bent tie rod from the impact that caused high steering effort. When the steering wheel is on center, are both wheels pointing straight, or can you tell that they are not parallel?

If that CV boot has been torn for a short period of time, you might be able to get by with replacing the boot, which is cheaper than the whole shaft. Once all the grease is gone, the CV joint will wear pretty quick and make a really annoying clicking noise, then you'll have to replace it.:m2:

mike_4843
02-09-2011, 04:21 PM
I just noticed mine has the same grease as yours does but on the drivers side. I looked for tears and could not find any, guess I will take to the shop and see what they say.

surjones
02-09-2011, 06:53 PM
Simon - When you say Boot vs. Shaft replacement, Are you talking the whole Rack and Pinion system?

ylab
02-09-2011, 07:18 PM
Nobody has mentioned the other obvious possible impact of the hit. Besides the possibility of a bent/damaged tie-rod, which should be inspected for safety (both inner and outer!....the inner connects to the rack and many people incorrectly consider it part of the rack), I would suspect that the lower control arm to frame mount shifted. Its only held in place by three (count them, three) bolts. I'd be willing to bet the lower control arm was pushed inwards hard enough to at a minimum push the arm to frame bracket (alignment bracket) fully inward and backwards, which could screw up camber, caster and toe on that side. - You really need to have the truck aligned after that hit, which will point out any bent components.

In addition, if you were turning the wheel at the time of impact, I wouldn't rule out damage to the power steering pump....just like the guys who hold the wheel against the stop making donuts and blow it out. He repeatedly mentions its like there's no power steering. No matter how off the toe is, it wouldn't increase the effort to those levels, but a blow pump or spool valve in the rack would. (My bet would be on the pump, they're known to blow pretty easily on our trucks.....I've heard of very vew rack failures).

Simon01
02-09-2011, 08:00 PM
Simon - When you say Boot vs. Shaft replacement, Are you talking the whole Rack and Pinion system?

Sorry, I meant the CV boot vs. the whole CV shaft.

The rack & pinion has 2 boots also, but what you are showing in your pics are torn CV boots.

mike_4843
02-11-2011, 01:55 AM
Ok I took my Envoy to the shop and they said it was a torn boot. They Charged me a 120 bucks to do it! When I got home I looked up in there and relized there now leakage or spillage of what looks and smells like gear oil! So what im asking is any type gear oil leakage when you change the inner boot on the driverside cv axle or could have the shop damaged the front differential seal while doing the repair on the boot?

Simon01
02-11-2011, 06:27 PM
Ok I took my Envoy to the shop and they said it was a torn boot. They Charged me a 120 bucks to do it! When I got home I looked up in there and relized there now leakage or spillage of what looks and smells like gear oil! So what im asking is any type gear oil leakage when you change the inner boot on the driverside cv axle or could have the shop damaged the front differential seal while doing the repair on the boot?

Since they had to replace the inner CV boot, they had to remove the CV shaft from the front diff, so I'm sure they spilled some fluid. Clean the area with some brake clean and see if there is any more seepage.

mike_4843
02-11-2011, 08:10 PM
Ok thanks I will do so tomorrow.

surjones
02-14-2011, 05:01 PM
So I got new tires and took it to get an alignment and this is what I was told.


No damage to the right side. (where I hit the curb)
PS Pump isn't cycling the fluid, so would need to be replaced.

The left side, CV axles needs to be replaced. (when that sway bar link broke, it kept knocking on the CV boot and messed it up.)

The left Outer Tie Rod End needs to be replaced. (really bad! from normal wear and tear)

Power Steering Flush

Alignment

total: $851.00


No damage to the right side. Sounds like a total blessing! I think the power steering Pump was just on it's last leg and when I was stuck because of the bald tires, and I want turning the wheel back and forth trying to get out, it just died on me.

That being said I check the cost of parts and CarQuest stocks all the 3 parts. For about $290.64. From what you guys have said it should be easy to replace the outer tie rods and CV axle assembly with easy/moderate knowledge. Am I right? Other thing is Should I replace the right out tie rod since I have it up, or since it's good just let it be?

And since it's up, I am planning on doing all the fluids (F&R Diff, AutoTrans Fluids, Transfer Case, Tranny) Any thoughts on on the level of skill I am looking at to do those?

thanks (I REALLY want to thank everyone involved so far in helping me out)

ylab
02-14-2011, 05:24 PM
With reasonable mechanical skills and the correct tools, those items aren't bad to do yourself. The toughtest one will be the CV half-shaft, since you need to pretty much take a part the front end on that side....just take your time and watch how everything came a part. (That's half the ability of a good mechanic, being able to put it back the way it came a part).

Just a couple of heads up:

You will need I *think* A 31mm (somebody confirm the size) deep socket to free the jub retaining nut and one big honk'n breaker bar or impact wrench to free it up. (Loosen it with the wheels ON THE GROUND and then lift and support with jackstands, unless you have access to a lift).

Have a pan ready to catch the fluid from the front differential and/or a Gatorade lid to temporarily plug the openning while you work....the fluid will come out when you pop the axle on the left side.

The power steering pump is more of a pain in the butt and really not that difficult and the outer tie-rod ends are a walk in the park at this point. (Just count the # of rotations taking off the old and turn the same number on the new one during re-assembly - should ball-park the toe until aligned).

Good luck, just take your time and make sure everything is tighened back up to the correct spec. Then drive to your nearest shop for an alignment.

I've found locally that Car-Quest tends to be more expensive than Advanced Auto, AutoZone or Pep-Boys. If there's an Advanced Auto near you, have them price the parts as well. - If you can hold on the half shaft, Rock-Auto sells brand new Cardone units with a redesigned inner tripod assembly for like $60 delivered. (I'll be going that route come spring, now that I'm lifted).

Simon01
02-14-2011, 05:31 PM
I started replying but ylab beat me to it!!

It's kind of a judgement call on the other tie rod. If it's not loose, I'd say don't mess with it. Others will say you might as well do the other side while you're getting dirty. The CV shaft will take a little more time, but take your time and you'll be fine.

All of the fluid changes you mention are easy. Just have a drain pan and keep some empty container jugs so you can recycle the fluid (walmart and most other places recycle oil for free). The transfer case and front diff have drain plugs & fill plugs. The rear diff, you'll have to remove the cover to drain, although I would suggest making sure you can get the fill plug out of the side of the diff before pulling the cover off. The trans pan- if you don't have a drain plug, just loosen half of the pan bolts and let it drain before you remove the pan so you don't make a complete mess.