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Yank 2600 Converter (No tune, AWD) results [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

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Ryan23
05-24-2006, 10:43 PM
Lended a hand as tuning/tech support guy at a Supra track rental here at MIR. Managed to get a few passes in with the SS. Don't have the DA (sorry Tony ;) ). Temps were in the mid 70's with a bit of wind coming in at the side. This was the first run with the Yank TT 2600 converter. I went with the 2600 because I still need my towing capacity (for my "real" racecar). The converter install sucked (worse than I anticipated) but I'm happy with it. Maybe I'll get around to doing a write up.

On that topic: Whatever clown @ GM built the truck around the Y-pipe should be beaten with a length of -8 SS braided line.

Now with that out of the way :), driveability is great. Not too loose for putting around town. I can stall it to 2800 on the foot brake. So here we go again:

Last time out was:

R/T - .886
60' - 2.136
1/8 - 9.283@77.34
1/4 - 14.377@96.16

Today I ran a best of 14.07@97. Sixty foot was a 2.002. I had four other passes within a tenth ET wise, sixty foots were within five THOUSANDTHS (.005). I should go bracket racing...

I don't have the slip in front of me, I'll dig it out for the specifics later. I have a feeling torque management is really holding the truck back at this point. I experimented with different launch techniques, flashing it, brake stalling it....it didn't seem to matter. If all goes to plan, I should have Vector's tune in this Saturday.

I made a couple other changes which would probably show more of a benefit @ an evening test and tune. I pulled the passenger headlight out and took the zip wheel to some of the plastic headlight "bucket" (where the headlight sits at). This opened up airflow to the filter (you can actually see it now) and still keeps the OEM headlight clips. Airbox is undisturbed other than the front facing opening enlarged a tad. The headlight was pulled out and the grille was popped back into place for the runs this afternoon.

"Mods" (IE: other than OEM parts..lol) are:

K&N "drop in" Filter
Yank 2600 stall (Ok, that's a mod!)
Pulled headlight
TR55 plugs gapped @ .035
Tires @ 35psi, no spin

Ryan

I looked up some weather data. The nearest station is 10 miles away, so take it for what it's worth.

Temp: 72
Humidity: 30%
Baro: 30.02
Wind: 6mph, although the flags were waving pretty good.
Track Elevation: 80'

Fishhunter911
05-24-2006, 10:57 PM
Nice runs!!! I am gonna be there tomorrow, look forward to meeting ya

TonyGXP
05-24-2006, 11:58 PM
that's a good DA, I'll plug it into the calculator but it looks good with that Baro reading, Tune will give you the biggest gains, Converter is great but w/o a tune it's only 50%..tUNED YOU WILl (cap lock!) be in the 1.8's 60' and more power, higher shift points, no timing pulled on upshifts, I see a 13.2 at least in yor future..in the cold weather at least..

it's killing me not to get the mods rolling, buying a new house next year (was going to add a level, remodel mine but wifey changed her mind again!!), we'll see though, maybe I can "Make some deals" with her while we look for a new one:undecided ....

TonyGXP
05-25-2006, 12:04 AM
w/o dew point I guessed didn't change much, it was around 950', not bad, maybe .1 probably less difference in 1/4.. overall the heat that that IAT sensor is what's killing us, I would bet on it, in the warmer weather my Truck feels like a Pig..in the cold, it's an animal.

cmadams4
05-25-2006, 12:44 PM
TonyGXP,

What formula are you using to calculate DA, can you post it?

luvchampagne
05-26-2006, 04:18 AM
I realize that this is probably a really stupid idea -- would an intercooler help? Time and time again I read that the SS is a pig in the heat and does great in the cold. Well, isn't that what an intercooler is supposed to do?

Thanks for being patient with this newbie.

Roy

Ryan23
05-26-2006, 10:15 AM
I realize that this is probably a really stupid idea -- would an intercooler help? Time and time again I read that the SS is a pig in the heat and does great in the cold. Well, isn't that what an intercooler is supposed to do?

Thanks for being patient with this newbie.

Roy

The problem isn't necessarily that the air entering the motor is too hot, it's the outside air (and to some degree, the underhood air). The Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is located right inside the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor itself. Any temp changes experienced after the MAF will not be seen by the PCM and calculated for.

Their are a couple of ways to solve this...

Either pull the air from an outside source that it hopefully a little cooler. The only real spot you can get that on an SS is through the headlight.

Fool the IAT into thinking it's always 65 degrees and cross your fingers. I would NOT recommend doing this as detonation is a very real possibility.

Find a way to "supercool" the air entering the MAF....let's see...

water...no...too risky and doesn't bode well with electronics..
CO2....no that will displace the oxygen and it will really run like ****..
ummm..wait a minute...NO2 is "really cold" and there are kits that are designed with the MAF in mind ;)

So in a nutshell, there's the easy way out. Throw some nitrous on it. You'll get all your timing back and have a little extra oomph for the launch. This is probably in my future too...

Ryan

TonyGXP
05-26-2006, 12:35 PM
no doubt N2o is the cheapest way to run 12's, but I am waiting as I believe Heads and a Cam to get another 70-90Whp is in my future, and I uess by then I will be able to deal with Headers and a real exhaust...so much for the Sleeper theory:D ..