What brake pads do you guys recomend?

[vortech]

My 03 Envoy needs new rotors and pads. I'm just going with OEM rotors and I was just going to get OEM( AC delco) pads but I did notice that AC delco makes a hi-performance pad for the Envoy. I didn't think the durastops where that great on my last car so I was wondering if anyone has any better luck with any other brands? Hawk has some HPS pads and also pads specificaly for light trucks in the LTS line. Have guys found any pads that offer any signifacnt improvement in stopping? Thanks!

[Obsessed]

How do you feel the stock pads and rotors performed? I am hard on my brakes and I found that if I want to save the rotors, I get a slightly softer pad. It has a little bit of a shorter life, but, it doesn't kill the rotors as fast and seem to stop better. That's JMO though, I don't know that much about pads other than I was told that a life time warranty brake pad is very hard and will wear on the rotors faster.

[blazerdan]

I have a 2004 TB with 41K miles and I'm guessing by the pulsing I'm feeling the past few weeks that the front rotors are probably warped. Is it better to get rotors direct from the dealer or should I go with aftermarket performance slotted rotors? And how about the pads? Aftermarket or direct? Ceramic or standard?
It'd be nice to know if there was a safe way to bypass the ABS system too... They're okay on dry or wet surfaces, but are absolutely useless in snow.... Damn mailbox I hit last winter cost $3200 in damage! Almost tagged a snowplow once too! That one wouldn't have been pretty....

[blazerdan]

I'm guessing by the lack of response to the previous post that going stock for pad and rotor replacement is best and anything else in the aftermarket is sub-standard as far as trying get extra-life out of rotors and pads........ Fair?

[Obsessed]

Can they not be turned? The going price for rotors, in most cases, even if you go with factory or after market are about $100 a piece. If you go with a performance rotor, you may be looking at about $150 and I just can't see paying for that unless you truly have a high performance vehicle.

[iDontKnow]

I'll probably be putting Bendix rotors and pads on my TB in a few months. Also heard good stuff about EBC brakes.

Also, don't bother turning your rotors, they'll just warp easier. Just get new rotors and you'll be set for another 50k miles.

[Obsessed]

Also, don't bother turning your rotors, they'll just warp easier. Just get new rotors and you'll be set for another 50k miles.

That's some expensive advice. Even if they re-warp faster, you're still saving alot of money in the long run. Besides, explain to me why they warp faster. If the brakes are not warped, then there should be no additional warping of the rotors.

[Mud]

I'll be changing the pads on mine in the next few weeks, they have a ceramic pad from the factory so be sure to use a ceramic pad again. I'm going with the VGX ceramic pads.

[iDontKnow]

That's some expensive advice. Even if they re-warp faster, you're still saving alot of money in the long run. Besides, explain to me why they warp faster. If the brakes are not warped, then there should be no additional warping of the rotors.
Thinner rotors, less heat dissipation, easier to warp, especially when trying to stop a 4000+ lbs SUV.

[2002BlkLTZ]

It'd be nice to know if there was a safe way to bypass the ABS system too... They're okay on dry or wet surfaces, but are absolutely useless in snow.... Damn mailbox I hit last winter cost $3200 in damage! Almost tagged a snowplow once too! That one wouldn't have been pretty....

A little off-topic, but if you're having those kind of problems you're running a bit to hard in the snow. 4x4 will certainly get you going quicker in the snow, but it still takes you just as long as everyone else to stop.

[Obsessed]

Thinner rotors, less heat dissipation, easier to warp, especially when trying to stop a 4000+ lbs SUV.

I see. From what I understand though, a rotor is capable of about 3 turns. You think that even turning them just once before replacing is still that much of a difference?

[JimmyH]

I just turned my rotors about 5,000 miles ago and have no problems at all. Actually they stop better than the origanals. I belive the shop that turned them only took off maybe 1-2 thousanths. just my :m2: .

[iDontKnow]

I see. From what I understand though, a rotor is capable of about 3 turns. You think that even turning them just once before replacing is still that much of a difference?
Turning them once won't really hurt... I'm just anal I guess. :)

I'd rather just put in all new stuff and not worry about it for another 50k miles. And especially with our salt infested roads, there's premature rust and cracking to worry about as well.

[RozmerJJ]

When I did the breaks on my wife's 02 TB I talked to a few friends of mine that work at garages and they all told me they could turn them but they will not last long. The reason they gave me was that the rotors are only able to lose about 9-10 thousandths before they are to thin to turn again and normal wear takes most of that. Turning them takes them down close to the minimum thickness and then they will warp very easy due to heat and lack of mass to dissipate it.

With new rotors going for about $85.00 each at Advance Auto it really makes little sense to turn the old ones.

[blazerdan]

I just got to get used to the ABS in snow and keep about 500 free feet in front of me. I'd rather much be able to control the vehicle in snow/icy conditions rather than have the vehicle control me.
I'll forever miss good old fashioned brakes!

[triz]

It really is a whole lot better to get new rotors. if you turn the rotors you risk not only warping your rotors again but also damaging your pads. I would probably say that you are safer in getting new rotors.

[TBLT03]

On a 2003 LT,I just did front pads this week at 115,000 Km .Original rotors looked good so I left em alone.
Cleaned up the sliders and lubed them.Used raybestos pads.No squeal or pulse.

[Aukland]

I'd recommend either bendix or raybestos pads n rotors. For turning rotors, rozmerjj is right, example, my 03 tb takes a 145304 front rotor, the nominal thickness is 1.142, discard thickness is 1.083. Roughly .14 inchecs before we recommend to get new ones...

[Blazernut]

From the other posts I've read GM does not recommend turning the rotors due to the heat dissipation issues. They say there is premature possibly somewhat instantaneous warping if heated up by a severe braking incident.

They recommend new pads and service the caliper units. Change brake fluid.

:m2:

[gmcman]

I would have to say the stock setup is pretty good. I have 74K on my original brakes..except for a rear rotor warranty issue at about 4K but that was minimal mileage. I have had a couple "panic" stops and being nearly 5000 lbs it stopped very well but the tail end of the stop you could definately notice fade. The stockers are good but when I change them out I would like to step up a bit in performance.

Could have been the pads outgassing in which case some drilled rotors may help but I don't want pads that destroy rotors in turn for supreme stopping power like the German cars but a happy medium. Are the ceramic pads hard on the rotors and do they require special rotors? Not trying to hijack but this thread has some good info in it.

I would say if your rotors are warped then toss em. You could turn them but the warp will come right back...no sense in keeping them. I'm on the edge about turning rotors for fresh pads cuz I understand the pads use that surface to get seated but I have had no major issues with not turning them.

[The Black Pearl]

i went with Akebono ceramic pads form rockauto.com. They have the AC Delco ceramic pads as well. Good price even when you through in the shipping and duty to Canada. I also put cross drilled rotors on that I bought from eBay. The brakes have bee on since November so its really to early to tell there longevity. I tow 4800lbs trailer and I wanted a better set up. PM me if you want the eBay sellers name. These rotors are heavy, I had GM install them and the mechanic thought that they were better than the OEM. I had problems with the original equipment and GM had turned the rotors once that lasted 9 months and then turned them but that lasted only 6 months. I guess towing wore them down faster than average. I hope these work out better...


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/blkpearl/CrossDrilled001.jpg

[iDontKnow]

I've had Bendix SUV pads and Bendix rotors on for about 6 months. They started squeaking after a week. I couldn't stand it anymore, so I recently replaced them with Akebono ProACT ceramic pads and Wearever (Advanced Auto brand) rotors. No squeaks what-so-ever! Braking feel and stopping power I would say is on par with OEM. The Bendix SUV pads were slushy and soft.

I'm sold on Akebono from here on out. Their pads came vacuum seal wrapped with a nice little packet of brake lubricant. The Bendix pads were just thrown in a box and rattled their way to my doorstep.

[rrufast]

I was gonna pick up Bendix from the local Auto Zone to front replacements today.. but they have been replaced by ThermoQuiets by Warner (Federal Mogul). Pads are ceramic compound and seem to have comparable stopping power to OEM pads which are the bees knees as far as pads go, IMO.

Pads from AutoZone were $53 but I got a 15% break due to having been given the wrong pads on my first trip to the store today. The guy gave me pads for an '02 Blazer... and they were about 1/2" too short and they slid around in the carrier.... OOPS. Glad I realized it before just going on my way...although I did drive for about 25 miles before pulling them back off to find out what the deal was... which was MY fault. Lesson learned..

All in all, front pad change was a piece of cake. Rotors seem fine with no warping.. Total fluid flush with Prestone DOT 3 Synthetic fluid in the next day or two.. :thumbsup: