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Stuck in park and won't start

34K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  BlazingBob 
#1 ·
I went out to start my truck for work and popped a 40 amp ignition fuse under the hood. At the same time the key got stuck in the run position. Also the shifter won't release from park.
After putting some muscle into it I was able to get the key to turn back and come out of the ignition. Next, I found the source of the problem that caused the ignition fuse to blow and removed it (grounded stereo remote wire). Replaced the fuse and tried to start the truck....no start.
I am pretty good with electrical, (former MECP certified) and traced the starter wire out of the ignition switch, thru the firewall, and to the fuse box under the hood. 12v is making it from the switch to the fuse box, but not from the fuse box to the starter (I think I am checking the right wire on the starter...it looks purple from the top of the engine bay).
Second issue, the shifter is stuck in park. Normally when you press the brake you can here the soleniod release the shifter. Mine no longer does this. Luckily this happened in my driveway so I haven't had to tow the truck.
Any ideas on how to fix this??? Of all the posts I have read, it seems that the ignition switch could be the issue. I have not yet had a chance to replace this due to 4 days of rain and my truck outside. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Riding my motorcycle 35 minutes in the rain to work is no fun.
 
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#2 ·
It sure could be the switch, or more blown fuses under the hood. I think you'll find it faster by inspecting them all rather than looking just at a list I could give you from the wiring diagrams.

By forcing the key off, you might have jumped a gear tooth on the ignition switch assy.
 
#3 ·
I have searched out every fuse....under the hood and under the back seat. All fuses appear to be in proper working order. I guess tonight when I get home I will try to replace the ignition switch. But before I do that, you say I may have skipped a tooth when I forced the key back.....does that mean that my switch may still be good?

If it isn't good anymore and I did skip a tooth, how will I be able to get the proper alignment of the teeth on the new switch? Seeing as how the old one would no longer be in proper alignment.
 
#5 ·
I can't scan them at the moment, but still want to get you on track to getting fixed.

Ignition switch thread with pics:
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=61278

although it isn't very detailed with the teeth area. If you're off by one, then ACC won't work, RUN won't do what you expect, and neither will START. But it's easy to try again and move the gear by one tooth and try again.

The park solenoid is powered as follows: The power comes from the RUN/START bus (out of the ignition switch, so this is how it could be fouled up in the beginning) through backup light fuse #27 under the hood, through the transmission park/neutral switch, then back to the fuse block and fuse #25, then through a switch on the brake pedal then to the solenoid.

The starter signal is indeed purple. And depends on the RUN/START bus having juice. All signs point to the ignition switch being the issue. Forcing it might have busted a tooth.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the info. You have been especially helpful. Tonight when I get home I am going to get a new ignition switch and see if I can't get this thing going. I've been looking to sell/trade it. I guess as soon as I get if fixed I am going to try to find something new. If you know anybody in the Birmingham area interested in a 04 Trailblazer, this is going to go for cheap cheap cheap.
 
#7 ·
If the switch is fouled up, would I still be able to trace the 12v from the starter to the fuse box under the hood? I can trace the starter wire from the ignition switch to the input side of the fuse box and it has 12v, but no crank when I turn the key to start.
 
#15 ·
The guages also are without power. The shifter position display lights up and the red battery light comes on but nothing else. What could be causing that in conjunction with the shifter solenoid not being powered or the starter getting powered? Radio works. Brake lights work.

Turn signals do not work. But emergency flashers do. Headlights work but daylight auto control does not. Blower works but a/c and rear defrost do not light up (assuming they also don't work). Power door locks work but power wondows do not. Wipers don't work nor do the wiper fluid sprayers. Dome lights work.
 
#19 ·
Yeah, I will share. Sorry I didn't last night. I was so happy to have the thing running that I went out for beers to celebrate. Plus I was posting from my iPhone last night.

Here's what I found. It came down to being a combination of things. First, I found another main 40 amp ignition fuse had blown at some point. Replaced it. Still didn't start. Replaced the ignition switch and finally got power to all parts of the truck. Wipers, windows, a/c, etc. All the things that weren't working, but still didn't start. The final piece of the puzzle came in the form of the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood. Put a new one in and still would not start. Went back to the fuse box under the hood and rotated the orientation of the starter relay 180 degrees and bingo....ignition.

After finally getting it to start and run, all I had to do was a little tweaking on the ignition switch to get the gear in the exact proper location and I was finished. Drove it to the local Hooters for a giant sized Blue Moon.

Now that it is running again, it is time to let it go. Any interested trailvoy fans near I-65 please feel free to contact me. I am going to sell this for cheap. I need a gas saver for my 45 minute commute to work everyday.
 
#23 ·
I just had a similar problem . . . shifter stuck in park, key stuck in "run". I was able to turn the key to "start" but nothing would happen. Unable to turn the key to "off", so I couldn't take the key out of the ignition. Checked all the fuses and they were OK.

The thing that was different in my situation was that I didn't have power to anything. As when something doesn't work, always check the source first. So I went directly to the positive terminal on the battery and the darn thing was just loose enough to create enough resistance that I wasn't getting a full 12 volts. Meter said there was power but very weak. Cleaned the battery terminal, snugged things down, and now everything works great.
 
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