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front wheel bearing changed

60K views 82 replies 33 participants last post by  e-iowa-o 
#1 ·
Hi people,

I used this forum website to help solve my wheel bearing problem, and thought I would put my own post up in case it helps anyone as well in the future. Plus I wanted to say thanks to the other posters!

I have an 06 extended 4WD trailblazer with 66,000 miles on it. Started noticing some wheel noise, or growling, but not terribly loud. I've had wheel bearings go bad in the past on other vehicles - this seemed a little different, almost like tire noise. Anyway noise started getting progressively worse, but not too bad, and I noticed that when I turned left, the noise got quieter. (= bad front left bearing). I was able to confirm this by driving straight down the road, and then turning slightly left or right. As other posters stated before, if the noise gets quiet in the direction you turn, that is your bad bearing because the load is taken off of the bearing somewhat.

Replacing the bearing was actually a pretty easy job, probably because my vehicle is only about 3.5 yrs old!!!

When I got to removing the bolts that hold the bearing assembly on (3 of them), I was somewhat concerned about the force required to "unscrew" them (after the initial loosening) , and got around that by putting some penetrating oil on them, and then alternating tightening and loosening until the bolts were out. Not too sure about the quality of todays parts I guess.
Interestingly, when I had the wheel jacked up, it seemed perfectly fine when turned by hand. Also, I could have sworn that the inner bearing (the one I didn't change), was making noise as well, enough so that I was fairly convinced that when I put everything back together again I was still going to have noise. However, once the new bearing was installed and I drove the vehicle, all quiet!!

Very discouraging to have a wheel bearing go bad so fast like this! WTF. Not only that, but I had to change a tie rod at 38,000 miles...

Anyhow, thanks again everyone!:)

-Jerry
 
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#30 ·
The car is sitting at the shop. My mechanic is going to do the work. I drove it down there which was about 50 miles. The boot is still off and you can move the axle with bare hand. I will get a price from him this week. He is a good mechanic has always worked on my truck. Question should I have him change the transfer case oil while he is at it. There is 83000 miles on the truck.
 
#32 ·
It should have been changed at 50k, I believe. It is easy to do if you are handy. But while he has it in the air ... and if the price isn't too high ... (fluid is about 9 bucks a quart at the dealer, and you need two, and you'll need to have a pump to put it in, and you'll have to worry about making a mess when you drain it and disposing of the old stuff) ... I'd let him do it.
 
#33 ·
axle in progress

I am actually in the middle of replacing my hubs right now. But when I pulled the first hub off there seemed to be alot of rust. Ive been sanding the race down trying to get it off but it is stubborn. I am also using a wire wheel. I dont want to leave any rust on it, but I am concerned of how loose the new hub already is, it slides right in.

Should I continue sanding and remove all rust?
Is there anything I can use to protect the metal such as locktite or rtv when I mount the new hub?
How loose is too loose?
 
#38 ·
I am actually in the middle of replacing my hubs right now. But when I pulled the first hub off there seemed to be alot of rust. Ive been sanding the race down trying to get it off but it is stubborn. I am also using a wire wheel. I dont want to leave any rust on it, but I am concerned of how loose the new hub already is, it slides right in.

Should I continue sanding and remove all rust?
Is there anything I can use to protect the metal such as locktite or rtv when I mount the new hub?
How loose is too loose?
You need to install the big O ring that comes with it. It will squeeze in between the spindle and the hub.
 
#34 ·
If you're talking about the hole in what I refer to as the spindle, that the hub bolts to, the only real place you need to worry about the rust is on the outer face. Once the hub mounting bolts are torqued, it's not going to move. The new one should slip in.

If you want to be anal, sand the "bore" well and paint with POR-15--but not the face.

Or, you can just slather on some heavy wheel bearing grease. But be careful, you don't want any dripping out and falling onto a face of the rotor.
 
#42 ·
fed up

Hello boy this is a headache. I replaced the left side bearing assc. about two months ago now the same thing is happening again to the new bearing loud grinding noise. This is very irratating. Do any of my Trailblazer brothern have had this problem before if so any insight on a remedy to this problem. It would be greatly accepted thx....................
 
#43 ·
Did you use a quality bearing, or did you try to cut corners and save money? If you tried to cut corners, then perhaps you shot yourself in the foot.

Are you sure it is the hub bearing assembly? Are you sure you don't have a different problem?
 
#45 ·
I just finished installing both sides and took a test drive...noise and vibration are gone. :thumbsup: New bearings look fine, I had no problem installing them or the abs cable.

My left side hub was definitely bad - your could feel the roughness by spinning hub in hand and right side was borderline. I did find my cv joint boot is leaking grease on the driver side near the transfer case. So I will looking into replacing that next.

It was not that hard to do at all. If you can change your front brakes pad, your over half way there. I was concerned about separating the cv axle from the hub but it was still like new on the splines. Total time was less than two hours to do both from parking the truck to test drive and that including going back to the house and getting the manual to look up the torque specs.

P.S. apply some grease the splines of the cv axle so if you ever have to do this again, they will come slide off the hub.
 
#46 ·
Yes I used a high quality bearing assimbley O'Rielys ordered it for me and as far as cutting corners by saving money I didnt think $185 for 1 assembly was cheap. I forgot the name brand it was. Checked all CV joint boots and the are in almost perfect condition. Transfercase has plenty fluid with no cracks or damage. Thats why I am stumped but thx 4 asking me. Anybody have any more ideas???
 
#48 ·
haze,

I think you should remove the bearing, then while holding it turn it by hand and see if it's making the noise. If it is, there should be a warranty so get O'Reilly's to order you another one.

If there is no noise I would suspect the diff depending if you mean the drivers side when you say left side. If you mean left when you are looking at the vehicle it may be the splined disconnect...Roadie knows more about them than I would want to.

Matt

Matt
 
#49 ·
Agreed. Possibly the splined disconnect if it's a passenger side issue but their reputation for failure usually is silent. Also could be the driver's side diff outside bearing or a CV joint. Much more likely, statistically, to be an early life failure of the new bearing. Should be obvious if you get it up on stands and rotate the noisy wheel. Done that yet?

And when you checked the fluid level I assume you meant the meant the front differential, not the transfer case. The TC is also critical, and needs the fluid changed every 50K, but it's situated a bit more aft in the vehicle. ;)
 
#51 · (Edited)
Here is what you need:

35mm deep well socket for the center axle nut.

18mm for the hub and caliper mounting bolts.

19 mm for the wheel lugs

Locite med blue for the wheel hubs bolts

Some wire or bungee cord to hang the caliper out of the way.

Regular screwdriver to undo the abs cable clips


Torque specs:

Axle nut is 103 ft-lbs.

Wheel hub and bearing assembly is 77 ft-lbs

Caliper mounting bolts is 130 ft-lbs.

Wheel lug nuts is 103 ft-lbs.
 
#53 ·
Just as a follow up to my wheel bearing fun, :hissy:

I ended up having to replace my left front wheel bearing AGAIN, this after about 22,000 miles on the new one I had purchased in march. In december, I started hearing growling again, and by the end of the year I bought a new right side bearing just assuming that the right side was going bad too. (about 88000 miles on the tb). Well the sound improved, but I'm still hearing a growling noise. :confused:??? I ended up looking everywhere for leaks, checked all of my u joints, changed my transfer case fluid and the front differential and couldn't really find anything obvious...Now I'm thinking do I have a bad shaft bearing? I remember that bearing said timken on it and also made in china... Anyhow bought a new bearing and replaced it - front end is all quiet now. (new bearing was actually free replacement from carquest) Before I raised the vehicle I did check that axle nut and it was tight - I'm thinking did I forget to torque that, wtf? Maybe I ended up getting one of those timken counterfeits who knows.

I swear when I go to buy any kind of automotive parts from anywhere I feel like I am rolling the dice in regards to quality.
 
#54 · (Edited)
...Before I raised the vehicle I did check that axle nut and it was tight - I'm thinking did I forget to torque that,...
Just so you don't worry, axle nut torque doesn't affect anything in the bearing. It's not the older design style where the bearing preload is critical. All the nut does is keep the CV shaft in the sealed hub. 2WD trucks run around all the time with nothing installed there. (Although we've seen pics of a little stub shaft put in there on a 2WD SS - not entirely sure why they did that.)
 
#55 ·
Yes you are right, thanks, there was no mention of "tightening and turning" in the manual like you do with bearings that you pack yourself...definitely a bad bearing assembly - or they forgot to add grease! I would have liked to cut it open but probably had to return it for the free replacement - thought about that too late.

I have been reading this site and there is a ton of good info here! Now I am starting to think of ideas on jazzing up my own a little...:cool:
 
#56 ·
Your not alone!

Replaced both of mine back a little over a year and a half ago with Timken's..... now my right one seams to be gone again!!!! Truck has just hit 80K.... its also time for new brake rotors..... for a second time!!! Paid for the "good" parts last time... May be looking at the cheap stuff on the second time around!
 
#59 ·
Same problem with bearings

I've been reading through many posts of people who have had problems with thier front wheel bearings going out. I had to change mine because I felt a vibration and heard the droning sound others have mentioned. I took it in to have it realligned and the tires rotated because I thought this might have been the original problem. The tech said that the right side bearing was going bad. I assumed he ment the passenger side, but turns out it was the drivers side.

I then thought the factory bearing went out because I had slid into a curb with that wheel the first winter I had the vehicle.

I changed both in July of '09 and now at least one needs changed again. Of course it had to happen just outside of the 1-yr warranty and I can't exactly tell which side it is even with swerving left and right and taking some corners slightly faster than I should. One I bought one at Advanced Auto and one at O'Reillys so I wouldn't doubt if both need changed again.

I've been trying to find out what others use and if it worth spending the extra cash on the more expensive hubs. I think I'll check out the mibearings.com site since others have mentioned using them.

I really like my TB, but as others have said, it seems that you get one thing fixed and onther thing breaks. I just recently replaced one of the transmission cooler lines going between the tranny and the radiator. The lines were relatively cheap, about $50 from the dealer for both peices. I couldn't cut out the bad spot and put a rubber line in it's place since the hole in the line was right next to the catalytic converter.

If those people who have purchased and installed the bearings from mibearings.com, or any wheel bearings for that matter, would leave some feedback on how long they have been installed and what thier expreience has been would probably be helpful to the rest of us. I know when I finally get mine replaced, I'll try to report back every so often to let others know my experience.
 
#60 ·
I bought bearings at Carquest, they were about $150 or so, and they sucked.:mad: (both sides). One of them said Timken and made in China. I replaced one of them within the warranty period and it went bad as well. The other side went bad under warranty too but by that time I was sick of changing wheel bearings and just threw it out. I finally ended up buying high end bearings at NAPA, around $250ish apiece I think and made in USA. I only have about 10-15k miles on them though so no idea how long they will last. They are nice and quiet right now though.
 
#62 ·
I changed drivers side with elcheapos from ebay about 2 months ago. So far so good. It is a pretty easy job so if I have to change it again I will with the ebay hub and still not have more than the cost of the so called high end hubs. The quality of the ebay hub seemed fine to me. I guess time will tell. The one I purchased came from PA. Shipped same day and had no problems. You might want to give them a shot. It was made in China, but what isn't.
 
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