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Tie Rod Replacement How to

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204K views 130 replies 64 participants last post by  2004TB_LS_6cyl 
#1 ·
I searched the site and have not seen a write up on a tie rod replacement. I just ordered the outer tie rod for the passenger side on my TB. It will be here tomorrow so I will take pictures, write up the steps and then post it. Looks like a pretty simple job. I was able to break the bolt on the knuckle loose as well as the jamb nut on the adjustment sleeve.

I have been having an issue with play in the steering wheel. I had my son turning the wheel while I was looking down below. It was painfully obvious what was wrong. As soon as I jacked up the passenger side you could feel and see the slop in the tie rod end. I am kind of surprised it hasn't broke.

This should be the last of the repairs for a while.
 
#29 ·
Thanks Roadie. Yes, it is the shops fault, but I never checked them after the last alignment. Using this forum (lurking quite a bit), I've changed the front springs, front & rear shocks, stabilizer links, upper and lower balljoints and outer tie rods.

When I took into the dealer for an alignment, they told me the passenger boot was torn and the inner tierod needed replacing. They could replace the tierod , boot and do the alignment for $855.00!!! I bought the inners from rock auto, but could not find the boots.

Thanks for the help.

Russ
 
#33 ·
I changed the first one on the trail with Visegrips and large channelock pliers and two of us pulling and it was not pleasant. But I'd still be on the mountain if I hadn't. The design of the inner tie rod end doesn't leave adequate flat space for normal wrenches or an adjustable.

Next one I changed at home after I bought this wonderful Harbor Freight tool:



Needed a bit of die grinding on the inner hole to make work with our inner tie rod, but it makes it go a LOT faster.



I strongly recommend getting the HF tool. And use Loctite on the inner tie rod end on the steering rack threads.
 
#35 · (Edited)
All,

Completed the inner tie rod end & outer tie rod replacement last weekend in about one hour. The parts, inner tie rod end, the boot, & the outer tie rod, cost just under $200.00. I did have to wait forever the the boot assembly. Roadie, thanks to your photographic documentation and write up, the job was a breeze.

None of the parts were so tightened down that breaking them loose was a chore. I used a small pipe wrench to break to inner tie rod end loose. The idea of measuring the threads on the outer tie rod also proved helpful so that I was able to drive the truck. Yes, it did require an alignment upon completion too. Just a heads up, I too sprayed everything down with penetrating oil the night before the replacement. I am sure that this had a lot to do with the ease of removal.

Reassembling the parts was easy too. You will need to purchase a small quantity of loctite for the inner tie rod end male threads. The boot comes with a sealer & clamps for each end and, you will need to put some grease inside the boot and spread it around..... Their instructions, not mine!

All in all, an expensive repair made easy by the fine folks here on this forum!

Many thanks to Roadie, and the others who participate here...

Tim:thx
 
#36 ·
Askin' the Pro's

So I'm going to be doing the lower ball joints and the inner / outer tie rod on my wifes '03 TB LTZ this weekend. Luckily I have a buddy with a lift in his garage and a good selection of tools. Any input as to special tools I should be concerned about? Any idea approx $ for the boot? I didn't think to get those and probably should. For now I'm only doing the driver side tie rods as that's what failed inspection along with lower ball joints and rear brakes. I've done the hub assembly on this (driver side) before...how much more difficult? Not that the hub assembly was difficult, but....thanks. I'll be sure to have a laptop and wifi handy to be here while I do it.
 
#37 ·
Failed...

So I tackled the inner/outer tie rods (driver side) and lower ball joints on the wife's '03 TB LTZ this weekend. Tie rods took me a while, but I got them done. Lower Ball Joints however...they defeated me. Following Keith's directions...couldn't fully access the lower BJ well enough. It appears as though I may have to remove the CV axle to get to the ball joint. We got close...had the upper BJ disconnected and the lower but couldn't get to all 3 of those tabs that help lock it in. Guess I should buy the Haynes manual. Any insight would be much appreciated. I know Keith's in an '04, mine's an '03...not sure if there's some design difference or not.
 
#38 ·
How to diagnose?

Can somebody tell me how I can tell if the inner and/or outer tie rods need to be replaced? When the truck was inspected they said that "something" needed to be replaced cause when they lifted the truck off of the ground they cold feel the play in the wheel when they moved it. It is my fault that I do not remember what it was that they said. Even if I did, I would want to verify it first.

As well, what is the general recomendation for replacement of related components. IS there a standard set of things that should be replaces at the same time?

I have noticed quick tire wear on the outside of the front tires and "loose" steering. Upon visual inspection I didn't see anything broken.

What should I look for.

Thanks so much!
 
#39 ·
Jack up and support the front at the frame. Wiggle the tire. Observe the outer ball joint (even though it's covered by a rubber boot.) If there's relative motion between the horizontal threaded rod and the vertical pin where it goes to the steering knuckle, it's bad. Much more likely to be the outer tie rod than the inner tie rod end where it's covered by a rubber bellows at the end of the steering rack.

There might also be looseness in the upper or lower control arm bushings. Also observable if somebody else wiggles the tire and you look closely at the components.
 
#40 ·
Got the truck up on the jack now. Followed your instructions and found the passenger side had noticeable play where the outer tie ride attaches to the steering knuckle. The driver side seams fine.

I see Napa has an outer tie rod for about $30. I just need to find a cheap tie rod puller and I should be ready to go.

Thanks a bunch!
 
#41 ·
FYI....I just did the inner and outer tie rods on my wife's '03 TB and didn't need a puller at all. The biggest pain in the arse were the clamps for the boot on the inner. The inner came with new clamps but the inside was a pita to get to (without the right tool) and the outer was the wrong size...too big...made another clamp work for now.
 
#45 ·
Well, I decided to use anti-seize. After the install I lowered the truck. WHile backing out I noticed a problem with the steering. I looked at the tires and both were pointing out allot. I then realized the points from which I measured the threads were different on the replacement tie rods. So I had to do a visual alignment in order to make the truck drivable. At the same time I was making the adjustments I sprayed some carb cleaner on the exposed threads to remove the anti-seize. I then put a dab of lock-tight on the nut.

This morning I went to Firestone and purchased the lifetime alignment for ~ $140. This way if anything loosens up because of the anti-seize, I can disassemble, clean out the rest and get it aligned again.

This was my first time working on any suspension/steering component. I definitely learned allot.

I am in the middle of reassembly. I removed the outer tie rods and am about to screw in the new ones back into the inner tie rods. Should I use anti-seize prior to assembly? If so, both where the tie rods join and at the knuckle?
 
#44 ·
I would be hesitant to use anti-seize at the steering knuckle side just from my own experience that I encountered. Evidently some of the aftermarket parts don't use fasteners with the nylon insert just a serration under the head and a deformed thread at the top of the head. My sway bar end link nuts were like this and when I used anti-seize the nuts wouldn't hold their torque so I had to clean off the threads and reinstall the nuts. When it came time for my tie rods I made sure to install the nuts dry. I'm sure the stockers went on dry and with a little bit penetrant the spun right of after 8 years of New England winters.
 
#52 ·
Anyone know if I have 14mm or 16mm outers?
They changed to 16mm part of the way through the 2002 production run. That's the reason for the confusion in the parts stores data bases.

My 02 SWB has 14mm threads.... I SUSPECT the EXT models use the 16mm threads.
Good guess, but I think in all 2002 models you just have to measure.
I would imagine you could borrow a micrometer from your parts store and get a reading in the parking lot.
As has been posted in other threads about tie rod ends - it's so much easier to just take a 14 or 15mm wrench out to the vehicle and use that as a go/no-go gauge. ;) If the 15mm slips over, it's the smaller choice.
 
#54 ·
I've always been handy, but never attempted to do tie rod replacements before. After reading the posts here, I said 'what the heck' and went for it. It was one of the easier suspension repairs that I've done. I thank you all for the pictures and step by step instructions. The cash saved will be useful in other places.
 
#56 ·
Alignment techs should check for loose parts before they take your money for an alignment that won't stick. I paid $150 for a "lifetime" alignment so it's in their best interest to check for bad parts and backstop my own checking for loose parts, because I'm in there too often already taking advantage of their generosity. I mean, really - who would sell ME and the Roadiemobile a lifetime unlimited alignment contract? :eek:
 
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