Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner

Rack and pinion issues !

41K views 50 replies 21 participants last post by  Kramratan 
#1 · (Edited)
:hissy:

Ok this will most likely my lasts posts about this truck as this truck has now put my life in danger once again and needs to be put down

Before selling it to a dealer in exchange for anything not designed in North America, I need to know if people here have had their rack and pinion replaced a few times already? This will be the 4th one in less than 3 years

Why I need to know? I would prefer see it crushed and loose the 7k they are giving me than to sleep at night wondering who's the poor bastard that will end up risking his life


Anyhow the first rack was the original that started leaking from the top at 60k and then the 2 rebuilt failed at their 5k interval, now this one was a brand new one from GM, and boy are they expensive, well I barely gave me 15k and this one too is leaking from the top, part from the original they all gave me the same symptoms before failing.

Imagine me driving along "lalalala" and then stopping at a red light, flasher blinking right and as I am starting to turn the steering just locks and starts to have an epilepsy attack, steering pump cries for mercy almost instantaneously... I press on the brakes, let engine on idle, start forcing the steering wheel to turn, it finally gives in and then it leaks like a woman who just broke her water.


Anyone have this happen to them? A FEW TIMES ???

or is it just me ? and this truck just needs to see the crusher, just too many issues, most of them don't even get here because I fix them even before I need help in understanding why such or such part would fail on a truck

and then you have my neighbour who owns a 1994 toy of a 4runner where he NEVER had any issues, ok bloody thing lacks power and has barely enough torque to get out of a good old montreal snow bank , but still I should know, I’m the one who does his oil changes brake pads rotors and whatnot, I was proud when I showed him my TB now when I look at him I know what he is thinking when he sees me pop the hood every two other week :worried:

I know a lot of people are blaming union workers pension plans and other poor corporate decisions for GM's failing, personnaly after seing my family and friends have so many issues with GM DODGE FORD cars and trucks and then mostly having smiles when they went to the japanese side of things, i'm wondering what do they know about builing things we don't ? from what i heard even their damned buildings are built better and safer than ours....
 
See less See more
#3 ·
How long ago did you install the GM rack? I think GM parts have a 12 month warranty and possibly a lifetime on parts like a rack generator, starter, etc. I can check for you. I hope you still have the recept, it'll make this easier, especially if I (you) know the date it was purchased. Let me know the part number. I'll read through the GM P&P manual and see if it is listed as a covered part. As far as it being a "new" GM rack, that part does not exist. They are all reman units. The only way to get a new rack is with a new vehicle. You may want to consider installing an inline filter and do a fluid change as part of your routine maintainence schedule. Same as flushing the brake fluid at least yearly.

Not to start a pissing match, but, the foreign made vehicles are not much better. Do you think Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mitsubishi, MB, Kia, Porsche techs sit around all day and play cards? They are fixing them, with their many issues. As far as a warranty goes, lots of luck getting anything covered after the original bumper-to bumper warranty expires on a foreign badged vehicle.

Let me know if I can help.
 
#5 ·
Thanks, i know what you mean, all cars from all brands have their issues, but by the time i see one of my friends bring in theirs for something that's actually broken (head gasket, seals, rack and pinion) it's my opinion a domestic vehicule would probably have been rebuilt frrm the ground up, i had a dodge ram 1500, the thing was powerfull, but also had it's hood open every two weeks, previously i owned a dodge stratus, things had its hood open every other day, dad used to have a impala police edition, hood open every other day also....

at least now it confirms my toughts, it's time for a change, i must now consider if i trade it in and live with myself, or just enjoy filming the whole thing while it's being crushed
 
#6 ·
Before installing the rebuilt racks i did a flush of the little oil that was left in there, and then when GM did it, i have no idea, the only reason why i went with gm the last time is that i said to myself that after 2 failures i was probably doing something wrong, so i let the "PROS" do it....

HA what a mistake, the damned thing barely did 3 months and had cost me one bill
 
#9 ·
1) Are you installing the original 2002 weaker unit with the 14mm tie rod ends, or the upgraded 2003+ units with the 16mm parts? They redesigned it for a reason.

2) What specifically is failing all these times? A seal?

3) Have you tested the steering pump pressure or ever replaced the pump? I would guess a pump with high pressure could blow racks apart.
 
#10 ·
I guess it's the 2002 units, because my original tie rods fits, i know i once received a rebuilt unit with the 16mm ends and was WTF///

for the pressure you got me, but then again since i brought it to the dealer should'nt they of checked it ?

I'm always blowing the upper seal where the steering column attaches
 
#12 ·
I'll take it off your hands for $500... Don't worry... I'll go with a completely different steering setup with the SAS it'll get... :D

No, really... The binding up thing would lead me to believe that you've got some shavings in your system (which is not being completely flushed or replaced when they put the new rack in), which are destroying your new racks... Same thing happens when you trash a PS pump... If the rack isn't flushed REALLY WELL, the shavings from the old pump (in the rack) will be run through the new pump, and will destroy it in short order (same thing with not flushing the cooler when a transmission grenades)...

Mike
 
#14 ·
Dealer is giving me 7k for it in exchange for an x-terra 2006 and an extra 6k

at least there's a lot of after market support on that one....:worried:
 
#17 ·
I've been lurknig around some terra forums, not as well done as this one, but aftermarket parts are available it's nonsense how much support this other soccer mom suv has


superchargers
headers
lift kits

but before getting into another set of issues, this time i'm doing my homework

so right now i'm debating over the xterra or the grand cherokee diesel 3.0l

two different approaches i know, but the bio diesel route seeems soooooooo

CHEAP

lol
 
#19 ·
Well that was nice, dealer no longer wants the TB, when they replaced AGAIN the rack and pinion they told me that i was better off selling it to someone, ok well i tried selling it, but it's hard when there are little puddles of oil everywhere i go and now the rack is leaking again, I've had them checked the pressure of the pump and he said there was nothing unusual, as for the shavings i asked him and he said it would cost me another 100$ for the labor, but he also said that it's not metal parts going but rubber seals...i am at loss here, my driveway looks as if a ford stood there for the last 10 years. but i do have a new symptom, i have a burnt oil smell coming from underneath the truck now, where the rack sits...i was told that maybe the return valve on the pump might be faulty, well, i've took a long hard look at the pump and all i can see is that the return hose goes straight into the reservoir, it does'nt seem that there is a return valve on the pump itself....anyone here has a good knowledge on how the rack and pinion/pump operates on our trucks ?

because i am at a point where leaving the truck on neutral down an a slope going into a lake seems pretty good


anyone has good or bad words on grand cherookees 2007 ?
 
#20 ·
Did you seperatly flush out the power steering cooler up front? I just remembered we have one. Also, not sure if our racks have pressure regulators at the line fittings like some racks I've done. If our trucks have one that must be transfered over and it wasn't done, every swap afterwards is doomed.
 
#21 ·
I just finnished doing a whole flush today and the oil was burnt, i keep on pouring a bottle everyday now, but anyhow, i unhooked the return hose from the steering pump and had the steering turned a few times, and little oil was coming out of there, even with the reservoir full, i could see the oil being emptied from the reservoir, but most of it would leak from the rack...so for the shavings i would say there are none.....because if there were any, there on the road somewhere...


I am really at a lost...i bought a pump from a scrap yard, i took it off a running TB that was rear ended,

so after bringing back the TB i will ask them to install the new pump fix the rack and make them sign a waiver saying that i will be allowed to plow into the garage while screaming i lost control if it leaks again....wifey is begging me to change trucks and buy myself a nice electric car....anyone wants a used wife ?

might as well change both
 
#27 ·
To tell you the truth, and after having all negative results from your reply, I can not find any reason why the seal blows out. The only thing that came to my mind was that there's some dirt or metal inside one hose that sometimes prevents the flow of oil inside the system. Other than that, it might be a curse :crackup:.
Change the whole system + all the power steering hoses. This is the last resort. :bonk:
 
#28 ·
Other than that, it might be a curse :crackup:.
Change the whole system + all the power steering hoses. This is the last resort. :bonk:

I think that that must be it....

lately the truck has been going to hell, i need to replace a wheel bearing, rust is creeping out from the door locks, and it's been treated with rust proofing since 2006, i've had stupid little issues that annoy the crap out of me, but this is one that really but really annoys me, i never know when the steering might decide to lock again and drive me straight onto a ditch, oncoming traffic or into the next scrap ward crusher with me still in it....

just imagine....no more go to guy for efans, hid lights, exhaust systems and other electrical issue solving, and worst, wifeay would get her wish of getting an electric car with all tghe money she would collect from the insurance...unles i put in a new clause stating to get the money she cannot purchase an electric car for the next 10 years....hmmm
 
#29 ·
THere is simply n way racks can be that cursed. I've heard of bad luc but this is just plain not that. Something is wrong. Like mentioned previously replace everything. Rack, lines and pump. If you wanna start fresh I have a brand new GM pump for an 02 SWB that I never installed. Still factory stapled shut. I paid like $250 but a buck fifty will own it.


the only other suggestion I have is a some sort of "power" flush. A normal fill and refill won't do much other than piss you off more.
 
#30 ·
Wow, that is crazy. I have NEVER seen a steering gear on a Trailblazer leak. Hell, the only thing I really see leak on Trailblazers at all is the front diff on a 4x4. Yeah, something is definatley causing this to happen. You've said you ran the system dry one time, I would definately start with a new power steering pump.
 
#31 ·
My guess is, you've got something in the cooler, or one of the lines after the rack, which is causing the rack to not be able to get rid of the pressure on the "low" side, which is blowing up racks...

Running is dry is also a BIG no-no! A pump is basically trash after running dry for 4-5 minutes... Lots of shavings, etc...

Mike
 
#32 ·
Well my problem is now solved...here's what they did, all free of charge because i almost killed myself when they did the last repair and i was going to sue their arses


Replaced power steering pump, installed new revision rack and pinion, installed two new tie rods with the new size...verdict


no more oil on my drive way, but i think the new racks are made for old ladies....there is way too much oversteer on these things, i just need to turn about 3-4 inches the steering and the damn truck wants to make donuts in the parking lot
 
#34 ·
Wow. I thought I had every problem w/my 2002 Envoy that was possible! At 119,000 miles, Ive never had one single problem with the power steering at all. Well, I replaced the tie rods a few weeks ago (they were 14mm) because they were starting to get sloppy, but besides that - no leaks, no locked steering, no whining - nothing.

I do change my fluid every year and was using valvolines synthetic PS fluid, but for the past 2 years Ive been using Amsoils synthetic PS fluid. Dont know if that has anything to do with it but....

There are lots of recommendations here. Some can be crap shoots. I say the cooler is clogged or a line is collapsing (internally?) and building up WAY too much pressure for the rack to handle.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Rack and Pinion

Okay, so I'm having the same issue with my Rack. I replaced it this past April after the harsh winter that VA had and the terrible plowing, it was leaking on both sides. Truck was sitting around 120,000, it kinda pissed me off since I had just done the suspension and put a new motor in the dang thing. I made sure the pump didn't run dry so I wouldn't have to replace that. I was able to find a down home garage and bought the part from Auto Zone, they put it in. It's now November and the darn thing is out again, I've only put 5,000 miles on the thing. The spool valve is done and it wont turn to the right. The plus side, I bought the replacement from Auto Zone, Lifetime Warranty! I just ordered the replacement from them, now I get the pleasure of putting it in this weekend.

If anyone has any instructions on how to change it out, I would greately appreciate it. If none are recieved, while I do it, I will take pics and notes and upload them...after all, how hard can it be? "famous last words"
 
#37 ·
Where is the most inexpensive, reliable place I can buy this unit.

I checked with Just Brakes look and they said they can do for parts/install for just about $1,000.

I dont have a lot of $$$ to afford this, so I dont mind tackling myself.

That being said, I'm timid about doing work myself IF I HAVE NOT done it myself before.

I have read this thread but I have not been able to find a HOW TO video or pics on how todo this. (Here is why I am needing to replace this - http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?p=1051354#post1051354)
 
#39 ·
swaping for the 16mm

the 14mm tie rod end on my 02 tb got real sloppy real fast and the parts stores in my area only carry the cheap brands, so decided the steering on my parts truck could be salvaged (still need to be able to move the truck) and found out it has the 16 mm tie rod (score) so I'll take pics as i go. looks pretty straight forward though. remove cv shafts, brakes, undo ball joints and rod ends, remove knuckle (needed for larger rod ends)(leaving hubs attached as mine are starting to be noisy) all for both sides the undo lines and steering column (I did notice a sticker on the steering column that says not to turn wheel when disconected to prevent damage to air bags) then unbolt unit and remove. then do it all backwards from there, but that is just looking at it from a partially disassembled parts truck.
:undecided
 
#40 · (Edited)
You'll have to drop the rear engine cradle between the frame rails. Put the jack stands on the frame behind the cradle. I think there are 14 bolts holding the cradle on. You'll need a 21mm impact socket and an air impact gun, and I think 15mm and 19mm as well. The two bolts holding the rack on are 21mm and have 21mm nuts on them as well. If you don't take the CV / axles out, you'll need a 3/8 drive 21mm deep well socket to get the nuts off. Standard 1/2 drive deep well sockets are too long to fit between the and of the bolt and the CV. I used a Sawzall to cut about 1 inch of the bolt (extra part without threads) so that the socket would fit.

Unless you need to take the spindles, CV, etc. out, I wouldn't... too much work.
You'll need help getting the two rack bolts out.

The bolt holding the PS hoses in is 8mm.

Once I got the two bolts holding the rack in removed, the car was back together in 45 minutes.

Here's a shot of the bolt holding the rack in before cutting part of the extra hex section off.


Useful diagram:
http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u...delid=6727&capuid=1&majorgroup=06&grouptype=B
 
#41 ·
My '02 bravada started leaking at the inner boot @45K and I had Pepboys replace. It lasted until 68K started leaking at the area of the pressure lines but was not the connection..replaced it myself from internet company... ..this lasted less than 200 miles an waititng for replacement.....the last failure must be internal it turns to the left just fine but doen't have ant power to the left and I did all the precautions(flush lines,etc)....will update after replacing.

I understanding about the 14mm vs the 16mm units

14mm for regular wheel base
16 mm for extended wheel base
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top