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How to: Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning

506K views 388 replies 175 participants last post by  gmc4flash 
#1 ·
So Rodie gave me some homework, and I did it. I also took pictures and wanted to post a How-To writeup. To keep things simple (and keep my fingers from falling off) the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid will be shortened to the CPAS.


Tools Needed:
10 mm socket (to remove the bolt holding the CPAS in place)
3/8 in breaker bar (to release the belt tensioner to remove the belt)
1/2 in socket (to remove the bolts holding the power steering pump in place)
socket extension (to help in removal of the power steering pump bolts)
Air compressor and blow gun

Supplies Needed:
Carb cleaner spray (or any no-residue parts cleaner)
Paper towels (preferably lint free)



I started by unhooking the battery (just to be safe) and disconnecting the CPAS from the wiring harness.



I used my breaker bar to release the tensioner and remove the belt. (hint, its a great time to pull the belt out and inspect for cracks/fraying)

I then proceeded to remove the 3 bolts from the power steering pump. If you want to use the special tools to remove the pulley from the pump and then re -install the pulley when you are done more power to ya, but it is not necessary. The holes in the pulley are plenty big enough to get a socket in there to remove the bolts. (I used a 1/2 in socket even though I am pretty sure the bolts are metric but the 1/2 inch grabbed the bolts and held them while I was re-installing them.


Bolt 1


Bolt 2

I would post a picture of me removing Bolt 3 but a picture of the back of my head while I had my whole arm in the engine bay would be useless...


The CPAS. Dirty...

I let all the oil drain from it and then I sprayed it out with carb spray. I removed the o-ring before I cleaned it so the carb spray wouldn't eat it.
I then gave it a healthy dose of air from my compressor to evacuate all the remaining carb spray being careful not to blow directly on the screens.

I failed to photograph the clean CPAS but you can imagine...

Installation is the reverse of removal.
 
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#149 ·
So i got my Trailblazer back from the shop today... Not good news...
Converter assembly and O2 sensor $529.99+ $99.95+$266.84(labor)=$869.79 total :cry:

Thats only the start.
Then Cam sensor aka variable valve timing sensor replacement aka Camshaft position sensor. (I feel like everyone has a different name for it.

$189.95+$95.00(labor)= $284.95 :sadcry:

Not tryin to pay all that so doing at home. Where is the best place to buy the sensor and new cat??????? PLEASE HELP!!!
 
#152 ·
Had to replace the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid today. Intended on just doing a throttle body cleaning (25K since last cleaning), but noticed oil buildup around the solenoid connector and decided to just take care of that too. Pretty quick and easy job. Oil had made it's way all the way through to the connector.
 
#154 ·
First of all there IS a difference between the "Camshaft Position Sensor...CPS) and the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid(CPAS). Two ENTIRELY different parts altogether.

Assuming you are referring to the "CPAS"(VVTS)...the solenoid then:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2194618

This is what you need.

Itis working fine for me, however if you feel like spending the $$$, and it makes you feel better go for the OEM. Plugs?...As I've stated before...I'm not a big "plug conspiracy theorist", however I will also say that based on the banter here I stayed with the consensus...that being the AC 41-103's.

If you're NOT having misfire issues, AND have other brands in, then there really is no reason to change unless it makes you feel better.
 
#155 ·
Yeah well i am having misfire issues. I hope it is due to the spark plugs. I ordered the AC delco plugs, a new cam sensor(i already replaced the solenoid last week), i went ahead and ordered a new O2 sensor as well considering my gas mileage is 9-10MPG now. After this i am pretty much clueless...
 
#156 ·
First off, thanks for the great thread, it took me about 15 minutes (the first time) So I get the solenoid from Rock Auto to replace mine which had oil in the connector. The truck throws the code every once in a while but doesn't run rough. Besides the dropping fuel mileage, the truck runs great. After putting in the new solenoid the truck started, performed the regular warm up routine then the RPM dropped like a rock and the truck had a seriously hard time remaining idle. My suspect was that I put the solenoid in backwards. Before you chime in, I mean that the screens that are supposed to be blocked off were 180 out. So I pull the thing out slightly, enough to rotate the solenoid 180 and reinstall the clip, bolt it in, then tried again. Once again, same warm up routine then rough idle and finally it died. Great. So I do the forum clean on the old solenoid and re-install it and the truck runs great. What do you think, bad part from Rock Auto or was there some sort of break in I didn't do? Thanks---
 
#158 ·
After reading this thread and noticing a slight erratic idle at times even after doing the plugs, throttlebody cleaning, fuel injector cleaning professionaly, I decided to check it out and it was a little dirty but not bad but replaced anyways since I already had the part and it made a nice difference. Smooth as silk idle. So even a slight build up seems to make a difference in idle quality. Definately should be part of a "tuneup" for this engine.
 
#159 ·
This post is about 4 years old and I have NEVER seen it until now!! Read through 16 pages of posts! Gonna take mine out tomorrow and have a look :D
 
#161 ·
I got a Dorman p/n: 917-010. I got the part today and I am a little concerned. The part looks kinda cheap. Its aluminum, but the machining doesnt look great alot of little nicks here and there. My main concern is the mesh. It is frayed on the ends and small pieces of wire mesh are sticking out, see pic below. Will this be ok, or do I need to try and remove the pieces of mesh that are sticking out? I don't want to mess my engine up b/c of this. Also, is there any relearn or anything else I have to do after replacing the part?

 
#162 ·
Maybe I'm just retarded but is all of that loosening and removing necessary just to pull out the solenoid? I'm not understanding what's holding it in there. The write up is too brief and I'm a perfectionist, I want to know step by step how to do something because I don't want to mess anything up.
 
#163 ·
Well since you decided to insult my contribution to the forum without taking the time to go back and read the other replys that might answer your question, and since you are a perfectionist, why don't you do your own how-to and dazzle us all. Ohyea and your welcome. I am sorry that after taking time out of my life to post information that by the way, others HAVE found helpful, I didn't run this one by you so that you could approve of it's complete and thoroughness. So why don't you think about it for a minute or better yet take the time like so many others have to read the other replies before posting negative coments and asking stupid questions.
 
#166 ·
I continue to be disappointed how many members ask for complete how-to instructions when the vehicle is right in front of them and it should be trivial to just make it up as one goes along, and adjust for success in real-time. Pull, yank, extract, examine.....if you break off a plastic tab or two along the way, that's how you learn. :confused:

:eek:fftopic: Preventing kids from messing up and learning from their failures is a HUGE flaw in some recent parenting techniques. Bully-proofing your kid is one useful tactic. Putting airbags on their bicycle is quite another. :nono: Some parents have raised an entire generation of people who will not become decent DIY mechanics. Professional mechanics are jumping with glee. :yes:
 
#167 ·
Other than space to remove the solenoid, I didn't know if there was an actual mechanism or something that was holding it in... I'm autistic and just trying to pick up things as I go, and I don't care that you actually think I'm a product of lackadaisical parenting.
 
#168 ·
:eek:fftopic: Some people are abused at an early age from a perfectionist parent or other person and this is sometimes internally redirected towards ones self. People then become hyper-vigilant because they hate it when repeated mistakes happen and they are afraid someone will come down on them.

I am kind of like that. What people need to realize is that nothing is perfect in this world. Not even your own hands working on a car. Take it easy and go at your own pace and above all don't beat yourself if something goes wrong. We all learn by doing. :thumbsup:
 
#169 ·
Rough Idle

OK guys, I have read the entire thread and still not sure what to do.

I had a P0017 code. Replaced the CPAS, my TB idled rough, really rough. sO, I put the OLD CPAS back in, and it runs bad still. I had no problem with my idle before all of this, I just had the code and some complaints from the wife (her vehicle) that the TB was not accelerating well.

I have read that I may need a CASE relearn. Does this do any good for the CPAS replacement?

I also stopped by a shop today and one of the mechanics told me that the timing chain could have jumped time. By looking at the schematics of this engine, I am not even sure thats possible.

Has anyone had this problem after a CPAS replacement? I put the new on back in this evening and it is still the same thing, I can not even turn the A/C on at idle without it stalling on me.
 
#171 ·
OK, another update just in case anyone is keeping score.

I went to my mechanic and we performed a CASE relearn to no avail.

I still have the P0017 code and my truck runs like crap. I am wondering if i got a bad CPAS. My mech is convinced that the timing somehow jumped while I was working on this thing. I am almost at the point of tearing the front cover apart and checking the timing marks. I know someone else has had this problem. Please let me know what fixed it.
 
#183 ·
After reading some of the posts on here concerning the dorman CPAS I decided to try a new replacement since my problems still exist. I actually found an OEM replacement CPAS at a local dealership for 60.53 out the door. I couldn't believe it as when I priced them before dealers wanted over 100 and the dorman version was 41. Put the new one in last night and voila, truck instantly running better. Of course the SES light was off cause I disconnected the battery but no codes posted after an hour of driving. Also my cruise control is working again, telling me my engine isn't sensing problems. Hopefully this issue is solved!
 
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