Overheating w/Coolant still filled in Tank - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

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Old 01-11-2016, 07:18 PM
Ray23Gio Ray23Gio is offline
Junior Member
2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LT EXT
Steel Gray Metallic 5.3L V8 2WD
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1
Overheating w/Coolant still filled in Tank

I own an 06 Trailblazer Ext-Lt and I've been having over heating issues. It started with a small leak from underneath the Coolant Tank (Above Passenger side wheel), it grew to a leak below the engine and started overheating. I had the water pump replaced, and it fixed the leak underneath the engine and the overheating, but it continued to leak below the tank. Per the mechanic, the leak is caused by the over flow of coolant, but the leak is really excessive. After a week it started overheating again, but this time coolant still remained in the container, but the raidiator, dry as a bone. A bubbling sound could be heard by the container when the the car is turned off.
* I have the feeling the mechanic is giving me the run around, but aside from that, what he hell is the issue with the car!?
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:35 PM
AWD V8's Avatar
AWD V8 AWD V8 is offline
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2003 GMC Envoy SLT
Indigo Blue Metallic 5.3L V8 AWD
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Surrey BC
Posts: 602
You can get a snowball reaction when you actually fix a small leak, but cause a bigger problem when you introduce air into the system.

I've had some experience with air locks on my 5.3

I discovered any time you open the cooling system on this engine it is very hard to bleed the air out. The air will stay trapped in the block an cause the engine to overheat, even days later.

First be sure you do not actually have an external leak, you don't need to waste time chasing something that is not the cause of your problem.

The small bolt to just behind the alternator, above the thermostat can be loosened to bleed the air out. If you have a cooling system tester it is very easy and you don't even need to run the engine to bleed the cooling system.

Top up the rad, run the engine a bit if you don't have the tester. Once the rad is full, put the the tester on and loosen the bolt slowly. If you don't have a tester, put the cap on and start the engine.

If you are using a tester you will need to pinch the overflow hose to keep the pressure in the system.

With the tester pumped up it will bubble air out at the loosened bolt. If you are running the engine, as it warms up the pressure will purge the air at the loosened bolt.

When only coolant flows out, tighten the bolt and shut the engine off, or remove the tester.

Now run the engine and make sure that both rad hose get warm as it nears operating temp, indicating coolant is flowing through the rad. Both heater hoses should start getting warm shortly after the engine is started, indicating the pump is moving coolant through the system.
I was planning on procrastinating today but I think I'll do that tomorrow.
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