Lets start with running the wire from the battery. Maybe 8 gauge is enough, I used 4 gauge.
You’ll need an adapter (car parts or stereo shop) to hook up to.
Before
After
Then to a fuse holder.
To get the wire inside the truck, I went inside with a screwdriver and poked a hole through the trucks wiring harness boot, then when I fished the wire through – it was pretty tight – but I’ll probably silicone it too.
Lift the plates off at the front and back door sills and run the wire back to in under the back seat – then put a slice in the carpet and fish it to another slice where your amp is.
Now to the factory amp. Remove the passenger side rear plastic pieces. I don’t have pictures of that, just do it! If there isn’t a visible screw (one large torx for the seatbelt, a phillips partway back and a knob at the rear hatch), it’s just snap connectors – just pull them off.
The rear speaker wires are the lower plug. (for my 05 TB)
Brown – left rear+
Yellow – left rear-
Dark Blue – right rear+
Light Blue – right rear-
Tap into the wire by stripping a section of insulation off. Here’s the dark blue.
Solder and tape the connections. You can see I also tapped into the top plugs pink wire – it’s the remote turn-on wire for the amp.
Then run the speaker wires (the ones you just tapped into at the factory amp) to the amp you’re installing. My Rockford amp has hook-up for speaker level input so I’m using that (at least until I replace the head unit!) - (if you’re using a line-out-converter you’d wire it in somewhere between here and there). I ran them front and underneath the rear seat and with another slice’n fish under the carpet to the amp.
Then run your speaker wires (from your new amp) to your speakers.
You probably have to write the rest yourself – but I’ll show you what I did!
I ran them back under the carpet and up the corner post.
and a short one to my sub (everything REALLY needs cleaned up – oh well!)
Now that i see that the wire boot is really close to the battery terminal, it makes me more at ease with doing the amp myself.
the cable kit i got is from wal-mart its a scosche 8 gauge kit. the fuse is in a plastic type holder, would it be ok to put it under the hood? or should i get a different one to put on? (i'll put in a pic if anyone cant figure out what im talking about)
And also where would i put the little blue wire? could i still put it in the back fuse box? I dont have bose/a rear amp.
and if someone would be kind enough to maybe link the battery adapter and the fuse adapter id need, from advanced auto parts id be much obliged.
Okay, so i was filling up gas, and i went to go start my car again, and it all just died. everything. literally. the key is stuck in the ignition, my steering wheel is NOT locked up, i am stuck in park no matter how many times i press on the brakes and pray that it will be mobile again, and yeah. i had it towed to my house.
ALSO,
I did just do a pioneer deck install, a kicker amp install and a kicker solo baric L5 10" sub installed. When i finished the install everything was working fine overnight and i ran the car and started it several times before it died. Please help me.
Just throwing this out there. I am a certified MECP Installer and can answer most of your auto installation questions. Just shoot me a message if you have any problems and I will do what I can to help you solve it. I have been certified every 2 years since 2004. I have to renew it every two years that is. So I will do what I can to help. Thanks for reading.:tiphat
So if I plan on replacing all my speakers and go through an aftermarket amp, should I just use the front outputs? Also, should I look into getting a JL cleansweep, or should it sound decent when using the outputs before the Bose amp?
so after various days reading and re-reading this post and several others about amp/subs install i came to these conclusions:
1.run power wire from battery
2.tap into bose amp with a pac- or any line in converter.
but the two thing that confuse me are ground and remote turn on wires location:crazy:. ive read several options but havent quite got a clue of which one is the best.
im getting the converter this week and already wired the power wire from battery so its redy to go. i just need you guys to help me with those questions so i dont burn/fry anything. thanks in advance.:thx
so after various days reading and re-reading this post and several others about amp/subs install i came to these conclusions:
1.run power wire from battery
2.tap into bose amp with a pac- or any line in converter.
but the two thing that confuse me are ground and remote turn on wires location:crazy:. ive read several options but havent quite got a clue of which one is the best.
im getting the converter this week and already wired the power wire from battery so its redy to go. i just need you guys to help me with those questions so i dont burn/fry anything. thanks in advance.:thx
i'm gonna be replacing all 6 speakers in my tb this weekend and running them off a new amp but instead of running all new wire can i just unplug the bose amp in the back and use the current wires?
I cut the wires for the front door and did that. (capped the wires out of the amp and hooked the output of new amp to the wires to the front door) (thanks andrew)
I left the factory amp hooked to the dash speakers so I have the chimes, bells, whistles, warnings, and onstar.
I suppose you could unplug it but you'll still be cutting the wires - so why not just cut the ones you need:undecided.
well i have no need or want for onstar and with the aftermarket deck i put in i turned the chime volume all the way down so its no use to me either. and if ur gonna say what if i deside to sell it. well i see no need for me to sell it till my loan is up and by that time i'll prolly just hit a deer and take the insurance money for a down payment on something new. gotta love ******* thinking haha so off that bose amp would i want to go off the bottom plug or the top plug?
Feel kind of ridiculous asking but I have everything else done and set up until my amp comes in. All wires spliced hidden etc. The one thing I don't know is, what exactly is that adapter for the power line off the battery terminal. My current fitting is also to small for the current bolt so will I have to get another terminal end to fit the adapter?
The one thing I don't know is, what exactly is that adapter for the power line off the battery terminal. My current fitting is also to small for the current bolt so will I have to get another terminal end to fit the adapter?
Sorry - missed this. Here's a link to one from autozone.
If you search for Gm battery adapter, there's many to choose from.
It holds your battery cable to the battery and also gives an extra bolt for adding extra wires. Yes, the 'adapter' part is the same diameter as the main bolt so you need a ring terminal to fit that.
Could you connect a line out converter to the pre-amp connections at the amp in the back?? Ive read this entire thread and think you can but I want to be sure before I buy it.
But I think you should be able to tap into those wires without one also. They are already a pre-amp signal. The line out converter is intended to hook to speaker outputs and give a low level pre-amp signal. Someone here tried it (without the LOC) and had some noise - but someone else did it without noise.:undecided
If you have the stock radio, you could get one of these and not have to cut your wiring. AOEM-GM24
I was gonna do the aoem-gm24 but then I read that it goes behind the headunit so I would rather hookup everything in the back, but then again ive read that it hooks up at the bose amp in the back, and I was gonna do an loc because its alot cleaner than having a bunch of wires taped up. Does anyone know for sure where the aoem-gm24 is connected??
so whats better to do the adapter that plugs in the factory harness(the pac) or the one that wires in the the front speakers at the factory amp in the back. Which is easier to do take the HU out and dash or the the rear pillar where the factory amp is like. There is so many loc out there which is the best (gonna run a 2 channel mono amp 500 watts on two JL tens) I got a 07 envoy with bose/nav...
Has anyone heard of the subs popping when the radio is first powered up? I went to a Install place and they told me using the bose amp to connect to the LOC will cause my subs to pop when power is first turned on.
That's funny because I went to a car audio place today and I talked To a guy who has done some good work for me and I trust him and he said that the best thing to do would be to connect an loc to the rear speakers and not to any preamp wires. He said it will have a better signal with an loc over connecting straight to the amp and you want to use the rear speakers over the front speakers because they could be crossed over with the tweeters which really produce no juice. I'm not sure if this is all true but it makes sense so I'm gonna do an install tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes.
Did my install today. I used a pac audio line out converter and hooked up to the rear speakers. Took it to a car audio place to see if it sounded ok and they said its fine. It wasnt hard at all to do. I use t-taps to connect to the wires, had to strip the wires though because they were too thick for the t-taps to cut into. Thanks for all the good info chevtrlblzr.
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