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Rear A/C line issue

29K views 43 replies 19 participants last post by  ratman34 
#1 ·
Hi every one. I just spent 240$ at a garage to finally tell me that the rear line is leaking. It is leaking at halfway. I saw the dye. Now, my options are:
1- replace the line
2- cap off the line and only have front A/C. According to a shop, they do that all the time as the rear A/C always have these issues as the lines are not very well protected.

Now, here's what I want to do. I am going to get the rear A/C line capped off as I do not live in the South and the rear can do without A/C. The shop is charging $400 to simply cap 2 lines. It seems really overpriced. I want to remove the lines myself, and get them capped off at a proper shop. It will save me at least $200.

Is there someone who has done the capping off of the rear A/C line and also have pictures and any kinds of a DIY list. A diagram of the full 2006 Envoy XL A/C set-up would also be awesome.

I know this is not the best solution, but I am getting rid of the vehicle in September and I dont want to sink a $1000 in repairs. As long as I have front A/C, I will be happy and most importantly, the wife will be happy.
 
#2 ·
Before you can BEGIN to cap the lines, the entire system must be properly discharged. Then, you can "cap" the lines. After that, and to ensure there is no leakage, you have to pull vacuum on the system for at least an hour. Then, and only then, can the system be recharged. So, you see it is not simply a matter of capping the lines and being good to go.

I agree that $400 sounds a bit steep. Maybe get another estimate from a shop with A/C experience.

Good luck.
 
#6 ·
Thx Rayvoy. Here in Halifax so far, I have not had much luck to find a good A/C shop that I seemed to trust. For example, I went to another shop today and told them that I wanted a quote on capping the line. In the end, they charged 1/2 hour of labour for telling me what I already knew. I was livid, but what could I do. They had my truck and I had to pay them. I am a little ticked off at the whole A/C thing. In the end, it will cost over $600 to have a freaking line capped off. What a joke.

Thx. and I will keep calling shops to see if someone can do something for me.
 
#7 ·
Why pay to have an estimate? There was no reason for them to charge you 1/2 hour labor. Or did you have them rediagnose it?

Frankly, you should fix the rear A/C if you're going to sell it. It's not really fair to cover that up and sell it.

Is it leaking at a joint where there is a fitting, or just in the middle of a line?
 
#8 ·
rear AC leak

I am in the same boat.Dealer did a check on system and found major leak on right side high pressure line.Cost me 114$ to confirm my suspicions, ouch.The worst part was that they did not want to tackle fixing it and instead referred me to a local AC shop,thanks alot.I was hoping too that someone had instructions and pictures of how to cap the rear AC.Would be a good STICKY.
 
#9 ·
Rear AC capped

Here is an update to my AC problem.The rear high pressure line had corroded and was leaking.To fix this I had to choose between repair of the rear line($440),or capping off rear system($280).I had the rear lines capped because if the line is corroded and not being replaced I was afraid that I would be dealing with another leak in the future.All the lines are still there and can be reconnected if so desired.
The lines that were capped are under the hood.One is on the drivers side of the engine,it is 3/4 inch in size and splits to run down beside the PCM and towards the back.The other is hidden between the coolant overflow tank and the passenger side fender,it is 3/8 in size.The caps that were used may have been crimped on,I am not sure,but I did not see any sign of solder,braze or welding and did not think to ask,sorry.
Everything is COOL now.I only think I used the rear air maybe three times in the 8 years I have owned this truck,so I dont think I will miss it.FYI dealer wanted $1200 to replace the rear line and did not want to cap or repair it.:suicide:
With the hot weather upon us,(hit 80 here yesterday) it will be great to be :cool::cool::cool: again:thumbsup:.
 
#10 ·
Man that's a lotta money! Glad you've got an acceptable fix going for now. After maybe the first year I owned my EXT, I started using the rear AC. I turn the 2nd row ceiling vents forward, and close the 3rd row ones. I have the 2nd row vents blowing on the back of the necks of the front seats for a lil dual cooling action. Always gets nice reviews from people who haven't ridden in my truck before :cool:
 
#11 ·
Guys,

I got the rear lines capped last week. The shop charged me 210$ to cap the lines and another 140$ for the a/c gas fillup. Apparently the lines only are 600$ plus the time to replace them plus plus plus. So I decided to go with the cheapest solution.

If this info can help
 
#12 ·
Free air

Here is a tip on how to get free AC.I have the manual system in my truck and sometimes when traveling at highway speeds the air is to cold.What I do is,instead of adding heat,is to set the controls to windshield/feet defrost setting and push the button to turn AC off.I call this free AC.What happens is the AC will cycle on and off in this setting and provide a more comfortable cooling than full on AC. ENJOY. :thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
I have been repairing everything with an engine for many years
Then you get guys complaining about the price of fixing there junk
Remember I didn't build the product you decieded to buy
But I did spend a ton of money on equiptment and tools. Because the manufactures keep everything the same so no new tools or classes are needed to keep up on technogoly
But hey bitch cause I found you problem and charged you. What I have heard is auto zone will check your car out for free and then tell you what's wrong. Lmao right

These cars are getting pretty complicated and I'm ready to say I'm done.
Ok the rear a/c. Line leaks. Most of you don't have the cash to get the lines replaced. On pass side is the high side and 1 of the rear coolant lines. On the driver side is the low a/clin and the other coolant line for rear. Depending where you live the lines can differ in price. I have replaced these lines several times. And I don't know why gm would have done what they did there should have been some connectors. But then again THEY DON'T WANT YOU WORKING ON YOUR OWN CARS ANYMORE. To replace these lines and I have been bitten everytime I have done 1 side. Do them both. Last set I did on both sides. Very close to 1600.00. The dealer wanted over 2500.00. The body must be lifted off the frame. If you think just removeing the 12. Body mount bolts will do it ha. You have to remove a bunch of other stuff to get them out and in plus the hard to get at bolts. The bumper covers. And maney other things. I have. Tried to weld holes in these lines yes aluminum weld and no good burns thru the. Thin line. I have done the kits. That lasts a season then back at it again I love when a customer comes back the next year and a/c not working. Going thru finding another leak. And rechargeing them. Makes them happy. Hey just like you guys. Have done the capping. Would do them all day. So easy. What I have done is cut the ends off the old lines I. Have replaced and filled in the line holes welding them shut. That cut the expense for my customers. Remember. Us techs or mechanics have to get our bodys in posititions that I bet god never intended. But hey I charge to much. I don't have to pay employees I don't have to pay electricty heat or even my knowlege. My suggestion quit wineing. Find someplace that will check it and fix it for free. If you want to know how to fix it. Then ask. If you don't want to fix it deal with it. But quit bitching about what is charged.
You can always find a diffrent shop that might do the repairs. I like the the 1 that founf the leak. But wouldn't do the repair or the replacement. I wish I could tell people that. Not very professional. Still lmao. I would like to know what you do for a liveing so I can bitch about what you do. I bet its mcdonalds or burger king.
 
#15 ·
... I would like to know what you do for a liveing so I can bitch about what you do. I bet its mcdonalds or burger king.
I respect your training, tools, and experience. And willingly pay for access to it when the job goes just beyond my reach. :yes:

The regulars here know what I do for a living, and it involves designing million dollar test systems capable of fully exercising engine computers or some of the most complex chips.

But the difference between us is I know how to spell whiners. :dielaugh: :raspberry

Welcome! ;)
 
#17 · (Edited)
winer hater

I dont know if that rant was directed at me or not,but I will reply as if it where.For his information,I too have been in some tight,hot,noisy and dirty places for my work.Have sacrificed health and hearing in the pursuit of a decent wage.I started my working life in the shipbuilding industry.He should spend a 80 hour week inside an icebreaker that has 16" frame centers when it is 100 degrees fah.,and weld to government standards.My last job was in structural steel fabrication welding on the New York Trade Center building.My welds had to be perfect and pass three separate inspectors,to CWB and TSSA standards.
So I do have respect for the working man,because I know first hand what it is like to work for a living.What I dont like is being told that they can fix my truck and than being charged for my wasted time and sent somewhere else for the repair.I dont mind paying for professional help,but I do mind paying for it twice.If I am paying $100 an hour for that help,it better be fixed right,thats all I ask of them.:yes: SAY WHAT YOU DO AND DO WHAT YOU SAY!

PS> When I go to McDonalds or Burgerking I treat them with respect too.
 
#18 ·
I haven't posted on here before but have the same issue of leaking rear a/c line. I have come across a couple do it yourself options to either cap or replace the lines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Site on ebay selling rubber replacement full length lines which I assume would be alot easier to fish through above gas tank and everything else that is in the way rather than having to replace the aluminum lines front to back which shop said woudl run $800 to $1,500. Could run these lines yourself then take to shop to do an evac on the system to verify it is air tight and then fill with refrigerant.

Otherwise, there are blockoff kits available from same store A+ Auto Cooling on Ebay or other sites on web streetrodguys.com. They run $70 everywhere I have found them, looks like the coupling where you cap them is fairly easy to access in the driver and passenger side wheel wells.

Haven't decided what I am going to do yet but will go one of these two routes.
 
#19 ·
tcal,

I bought the full line from A+ Auto Cooling on eBay. Make no mistake, even the rubber ones are hard as heck to fish through above the fuel tank!!! 4 hours of labor for me to do it... I decided to leave the connections off and take it to my normal mechanic to disconnect the old crap line and hook up my new one. We ran into an issue at the drivers front wheel well... the connection didn't seal well, we wound up using the included gasket plus an o-ring to "make it work"... Give me a week and I'll post if it's still good or not...

Mike
 
#29 · (Edited)
If you are not sure where your problem is,than you will have to go with the diagnostics.If the AC was working before and is leaking,on these trucks the rear lines are prone to this.They either rust out or get hit by stones.The garage wanted $440 to patch mine or $280 to just cap them(plus tax).If you decide to cap them I think you will be happy with how the AC works,I know I am.I had a Safari Van and it only had rear heat from the factory,no rear AC,so I knew from how it worked, that having no rear AC would not be a problem.


PS My kid is grown and has his own car and only the MILaw rides back there and she is always cold.
 
#30 ·
What about replacing the suction and discharge lines? That would eliminate the one suction line that is split from the rear for about $130 new. Then there would just be the line split from the condenser to cap off or find a line to replace it from a junker with non-rear A/C , which shouldn't be too expensive or even get one from the dealer (GMPartsDirect doesn't list it though). May involve some labour on your part to replace them but it's not complicated and won't involve any welding to cap off the existing lines. All you then need is to get it vacuumed and filled. This could be an option if you can't find anybody to cap them off properly.
 
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#31 · (Edited)
http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x157/Menthol_03/?action=view&current=PassSide.jpghttp://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x157/Menthol_03/?action=view&current=AboveRearAxle.jpg


Lines looked pretty good under there. First pic passenger side, second, under the rear axle lookin up. The 2 black ones coming from driver side. 4 lines going the rear, passenger side one goes to condenser and one goes to inside. Driver side branch off from drier goes rear not sure where the other one goes. Which two gets plugged? The system in presently empty, can I put compressed air to find the leak or would that damaged the system?
 
#32 ·
Those lines go to the rear unit that is inside the fender,it has a heater core,AC core,fan and ducts.The black ones are for heat(antifreeze),small silver is high pressure AC and the other is low pressure AC,this is my guess,as I am not a technition.Far as testing,the proper way is to fill with refrigerant and check with a sniffer to locate leak.This is not a DIY repair,because of all the special equipment needed.Even if you found the leak,how are you going to repair it?Some jobs are better left to the professionals. :m2:
 
#33 ·
Even if the lines "look" good, you could still have a pinhole leak. If the system hasn`t been running for a while, any telltale oil seepage would have washed away. To properly find the leak, you would need to add some refrigerant and use a leak detector. I recently bought one at Harbor Freight for $50 on sale and helped me find a leak in the hose on my receiver/dryer.
 
#36 ·
So I have my leak on the driver side, green fluid. From what I can see this is for the AC in the rear, correct? Now if that is the case not sure where the freon (gas at abient temp) is introduced. Is this green fluid only for the rear and if so will my front continue to work. It just started leaking (right before a 7 hour trip tonight). AC still seems to work, but not sure how long. Also if I get it capped like so many are talking about, will the rear heat work?
 
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