Front strut replacement - Page 2 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2006 - 2009 TrailBlazer SS Tech > 06-09 SS Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires > Suspension

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Old 08-06-2011, 05:04 PM
6stringbass 6stringbass is offline
Junior Member
2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Bordeaux Red Metallic 4.2L I6 2WD
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8
Oh Yeah....

A picture IS worth a 1000 words. Thanks. Maybe I can finally get the front shocks in now! do I find your gallery? Can't seem to locate it through search.
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:44 PM
the roadie's Avatar
the roadie the roadie is offline
No longer with us
2004 GMC Envoy SLT "Roadiemobile"
Extreme Offroad Pewter 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 26,181
Galleries are available after clicking the member's name.

But in my case, not all my pics are in my gallery. I haven't updated it in years.

I usually have to hammer in my puller jaws. A third alternative is just to hammer perpendicularly to the tapered pin on the side of the yoke mount casting. That can often loosen the mount so it jumps off the pin.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:44 PM
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jbones jbones is offline
2008 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Silver Blue Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Arlington, WA
Posts: 105
Originally Posted by PROSPHOTO View Post

2. Tighten the shock absorber retaining nut to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module yoke to shock absorber pinch bolt to 70 Nm (52 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module upper retaining nuts to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module yoke to lower control arm retaining nut to 111 Nm (82 lb ft).
Called my local dealer today, it appear the torques are the same for the 2008 TB. They gave me all same values with the exception of : 32 ft lbs on shock absorber retaining nut.

One more worry down as I get ready to level and replace fronts.
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Old 12-21-2014, 11:16 AM
660bit 660bit is offline
Junior Member
2006 GMC Envoy SLT
Silverstone Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: El Reno, OK
Posts: 3
So pulling the yoke is part of the 4x4 S.O.P? you do not have to do this with a 2wd I take it?
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:32 PM
VikingUser2002 VikingUser2002 is offline
Junior Member
2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LTZ
Majestic Red Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Oxford, CT
Posts: 1
Removing yoke from control arm.

After replacing front Strut Assemblies on my 2002 Trailblazer (@179,000 miles) I strongly agree with the group (the roadie, markarock, 6stringbass) this was a very frustrating & loosing experience utilizing pullers (2-jaw & 3-jaw types). Not enough leverage. As suggested in the Forum I then went the pickle fork route. Via AutoZone's loaner tool program, I obtained a Pitman Arm fork & a Ball Joint fork. The difference being only the wedge thickness / taper: Ball Joint fork is thinner. I used the Ball Joint fork first (and with a hand sledge hammer: 3-pound) to make a gap big enough to get the Pitman Arm fork in, and then finished separating the yoke-arm connection.

I think using this procedure could result in replacing each strut assembly in about 2 to 2-1/2 hours each. I think this tidbit might save headaches to someone.

Note I replaced the complete strut assembly (purchased from RockAuto) because I wanted new upper & lower mounts, and was economical and less work.

Much thanks for your help to ALL that have provided valuable contributions.
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