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HVAC Passenger Temp Actuator Replacement

79K views 41 replies 27 participants last post by  michaelb95030 
#1 ·
The Passenger Side Temperature Actuator went out in my 2003 Trailblazer. The passenger side and rear vents blew heater air instead of air conditioned air.
I removed the glove box and found the actuator to the left center behind the radio on the passenger side.

How I did it:
Unplug the actuator. Using a 5.5 mm extended socket on a screw driver remove the two screws. Now use some force to pull on the metal bracket on the outside of actuator enough to wiggle the actuator out of the plastic door gear. The old actuator has a tighter fit than the new one. I replaced the actuator, but the air was still not working correctly. So I took the actuator out again and turned the plastic door gear until I had cold air coming from the vents. I replaced the new actuator and noticed it calibrated to the correct setting and screwed it down.

Be careful of your knuckles as you pull on the bracket. Notice red stuff on the back of bracket.

Next job is to replace the vent blower for the various speeds, My #5 is out.
Then I will replace the window regulator and motor when the part comes in.

thanks to all for helping me with this job-it saved me a lot of money and will keep me cool in the Bakersfield 100 degree heat this summer.

J Baker
 

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#2 ·
plugging in air bag connectors

I just finished replacing temp actuator on passenger side and need to put back the glove box. My husband disconnected the air bag connectors and is not here right now. What are the steps on connecting these-I don't want it to deploy.

J Baker
 
#3 ·
I moved your post here so as to not hijack the other thread about dashboard replacement.

Best safety for airbag connectors is to disconnect the negative side of the battery, wait 10 minutes, then plug in the air bag connectors. Still keep your body and tools out of the deployment region, just in case. I've never heard of one accidentally deploying here on trailvoy in four years, but you're right to be cautious.

Thanks for the temp actuator update.

On blower speed 5, you're changing the resistor pack, not the blower motor itself, right?
 
#4 ·
The resistor thingy

:confused: I replaced the resistor pack. I found Sticky's post on replacing it. It works great now.

My next task is to replace the window regulator-but will have to wait for the right (I wanted the left side back window) one to come in.

Thanks for your help

Julie:thumbsup:
 
#7 ·
My 02 Trailblazer EXT is experiencing the same problem with my passenger side air only blowing hot regardless of what the temperature is set to. I would love to replace it since I live in AZ and it's starting to hit the 90's. I was wondering if you have the part number to the passenger side temperature actuator? Thanks.
 
#8 ·
Passenger side air actuator

I do not have the part number for my 03 trailblazer. I would take out the old one to make sure you get the correct part. There are 3 or 4 different actuators behind the dash, so make sure you match part numbers.
I bought the part at the dealer, its pricey, but worth it especially if you use your air daily like we do in Bakersfield. It is a tight fit to get the passenger side actuator out, you have to get your hand between the support beam and the part itself. My husband couldn't get his hands in good enough to get a hold of the actuator to pull it out, so I got my knuckles banged up instead.

Good Luck

Julie
 
#9 ·
Very Fortunate!

Well I started to tackle my passenger temp actuator repair/replacement this afternoon after several months of cooler weather finally ran out. Just as Roadie's photos showed, there is a metal strut exactly in the way of the second screw holding the actuator in place. I don't have anything to cut out an access to the screw so I just took the one screw out and then wiggled the actuator. In my 2004 Envoy's actuator there is a plastic plug on the face of the body which has a notch in it. I turned it with my flathead screw driver about an 1/8 turn and there was some resistance so I don't know if I turned the shaft inside the unit or not, but I started the truck and turned on the a/c and it is working now! Cool air comes out of the passenger vents plus the back seat vents where before hot air from hell did. I guess I freed the mechanism from some kind of bind, but I'm sure glad because I couldn't have removed that second screw without cutting some metal. Hope this helps inspire the next guy to try this before getting extreme. I know I didn't "fix" anything but it's working now and I'll take it.
 
#10 ·
i have the same problem as you all have had, i am having a hell of a time getting the dang thing out. i cant get to the bottom left screw, so i thought that i would try to move the actuator by hand. i tried to move the round gear looking thing with a large flat head screw driver - but it wouldn't budge and I TRIED. any ideas how to get it to move, or how to manually set it on cold? I will move it later in the winter.

Please help, my car is disassembled in the driveway.:thx
 
#11 ·
The internal motor is small, so like all actuators, there's a multi-stage gear train. You can NEVER push back against a multistage gear train and win. You'll break things. If you're talking about the thing I think you're talking about.

You can try pulling the HVAC-B fuse as if you're doing a reset. Then plug it back in and turn the key to RUN without starting the engine. That will start the recalibration process and if you're lucky the actuator will go one way then the other and you can have somebody pull the fuse at the exact spot you want the gear in. Then pull the connector off the actuator and it will stay there.

There's a way to run the actuator using clip leads and a 9V battery when the connector's disconnected. I should write that up sometime when I'm home, and not on a business trip like now.
 
#12 ·
I'm looking to replace this in the next couple... Could someone possibly confirm this would be the correct part for the passenger side.

Dorman/Blend Door Actuator
Part Number: 604-106

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dorman-Blend-Door-Actuator/2004-GMC-Envoy-2WD/_/N-jlz79Z9pelb?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=Actuator&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=575028_158882_13424_


After removing the actuator I was actually able to slighty turn the small white knob which the actuator slides onto until cold air flows but I will be replacing soon and want to ensure I purchase the correct part the first time out the gate.

I also was wondering once I install the new actuator if I should remove the fuse or do any type of calibration process or if this is a straight forward plug and play..turn the key and the climate control will be functioning as it should.


Thanks always for all your help and so happy to have found such a great site.

-Brad
04 Envoy XL I6 2WD
 
#13 · (Edited)
I tried the reset, but the actuator did not move at all. No luck there.

i'm still curious how you guys are getting the actuator off?.?. Are you removing / bending the metal brace that is in the way? I haven't taken out the stereo, and tried from that angle - Is that how you are getting in there? Maybe more pictures would help, if anyone has them.
 
#15 ·
Just a quick question guys. I've been lurking for years and you guys have helped me countless times.

I'm sure I have the same actuator issue. I'm just not sure which one I need to change.

All my vents, including the rear, blow cold air except the passenger side floor vent.

Thats still the passenger temp actuator right?

Thanks again guys
 
#16 · (Edited)
I just replaced mine this morning on my 2002 LS. Took about 10 minutes.

No need to remove anything!!!!! Glove box has a catch at the top (just to the left of the DELPHI sticker in pic 2 by Doug), push it up and glove box swings down to the floor.

Actuator is held in by two screws. One on top (easily reached) the other is behind the brace. Drilled hole through both up angles on brace, so you can reach the screw (pic 1 by Doug). Actuator pulled off very easy!!!!

Once off, you'll see the white knob that rotates the flap. I had to take a pair of channel lock pliers and bend the up angle of the brace to get the actuator in. Only need to bend a little. Put the two screws back in, hook up connector and turn key to see if actuator works.

Really very easy.

Hope this helps

Russ
 
#17 ·
yet another question about actuators and HVAC

ok. changed batttery. Vents stopped blowing and only got air from floor or defrost. Found the floor actuator and turned it to vent then unplugged power. Now only vents blow. Simultaneously, or around the same time my AC stopped getting cold. Hard to tell cause this problem happened in winter. I took it for a freon charge. Was told it needed oil flushed. Oil was flushed and new freon charge given. Pressure held but no cold air. The accumulator/scrubber doesn't get cold, yet the system expels condensed water. I was told that the accumulator is bad and needs replaced and a valve/filter/??? that goes in the hoses. A tube/therometer looking thing about 3 inches long. Any ideas???? is the acutator that causes this or is my lack of cold accumulator and other pipes/hoses a result of the temp actuator? I should note, the passenger side is slightly cooler, than drivers. The air is niether really hot nor really cold on either side..just slightly cooler on passenger side.
 
#18 ·
Perhaps something that may help TVers.
It seem that I need to replace both my temp door actuators at ~ 115 each. There seems to be some discrepancy on part #s for these items, check carefully. I had 3 sources give 3 part numbers.
-My passenger side actuator was more difficult to get out than the OP. ? Not only did I have to hole out my the framing member to remove the screw, I also had to cut that framing member and pull it out of the way to get the actuator off the shaft. There was not adequate clearance to get the motor off the shaft. -We were able to get the driver side off, but that req'd a 300lb man pulling on a framing member to get clearance to remove.
Best of luck with this sort of thing folks.
-Mark
 
#20 ·
Due to the confusion over parts, and the fact that truck is disassembled at the shop, I will post this information when I have installed functioning parts. Your diagram may prove to be correct. I honestly can't remember what part # I ordered, there was much consternation from varying sources over the part #.
Happy trails.
-Mark
 
#21 ·
Resolved

TVers,
Satisfaction has been achieved. When ordering temp actuators, be careful and specific about the part #.
GM sent me the same part for both driver and passenger temperature actuator. It is as follows:
GM#:89018375
ACD#:15-72972
$117.50 each was best price I could find, from local GM dealer, Rock Auto included. I was told these are so expensive because they are 5 wire, rather than 4 wire that mode door actuator uses.
I understand some of the confusion is due to GM changing the part number. One parts pro told me 4x for this part. All sources may not be using the latest information. Be careful.
To anyone doing this repair, if you replace your actuator(s) and they will not calibrate, not work properly, check the HVAC control panel. I was not getting proper voltage coming from blue wire on back of control panel. Sourced new panel from salvage yard.
Mechanic and I think figured out the order of operations with failure of my temp controls
1 Passenger actuator; didn't notice, don't often have passengers, seized motor; screwed up control panel, control panel kept running driver's actuator against its stop(s) and killed it.
2 Drivers Actuator.
Sorry roadie, my mechanic/friend wanted the bad actuators. Since we used his shop and 10 hours of his time, on this and many other things, some were auto related, I gladly let him have them. I can send you old control panel if interested.
happy Turkey Day.
 
#22 ·
Fascinating data, BP:
GM#:89018375
ACD#:15-72972

I see conflicting data from compnine, rockauto, and parts4chevys.com on this part. Those part numbers are lower (which usually means older) than the ones in my exploded diagram, which was the result of extensive research. But they're also listed as working on other vehicles.

But I can't argue with success. If they work for you, then :woohoo:

I remain skeptical that you were told the right reason, though. ALL five actuators (I guarantee it) are five wire. They all have 12V, 5V reference, ground, actuator control line, and sensor feedback line.

In my actuator failure that triggered a long investigation, running the motor against the stops just resulted in the control module seeing poor results from the sensor. WIthin a minute, during the calibration sequence, the module recognized there was a problem, and simply quit trying to control that actuator channel. No damage to the module. If I was designing it, I would have protected the module against that sort of damage. The only way to get the module to attempt to talk to that channel again was to pull the fuse and force a memory reset, and a new recalibration sequence.

In the schematic, I see two dark blue, one light blue, and one light blue/black stripe wires. Any chance you remember which blue wire you had a bad voltage on? 5V reference, a control line, or a sensor feedback wire?

I am indeed interested in the control module - I'll PM you. Thanks!
 
#23 ·
Caveat- I am not a mechanic, electrical engineer, parts guy or any other sort of auto expert. I make no claim to know/understand many of the particulars. This seemed to be uncharted territory for other parties involved in my repair job as well. I am happy to have the vehicle working properly. So any info from my experience is worth what was paid for it. I do not intend to create confusion; just wanted to share my experience in hopes that it helps the next person.
Regarding parts numbers- The # listed in my previous post made my 2003, manual dual zone, TB work. I don't know if it will make yours work.
Without the help, guidance, and specifically the blown up diagram, this repair would have been far more painful. Many thanks to contributors.
Happy holidays and safe travels.
-Mark
 
#24 ·
Could this be the same part...

I've been reading this thread and am pretty sure it talks to the exact issues i am experiencing - figured i would give it a shot even though i am a newbie to cars and car repairs and all that good stuff. Just so tired of BIG repair bills.

I started searching for the part numbers listed previously and ended up on this...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...og=315&partnum=1573596&a=FR315-1573596-283618

The part is only $41 and looks identical to what I was viewing under the dash.

The price is so much cheaper than what was previously mentioned though that it makes me think it's not the right part? To reaffirm... looking to replace the passenger side temperature actuator as the passenger side only blows hot air on my 2003 T/B with manual dual climate control.

Thanks all!
 
#25 ·
I went ahead and ordered the part as I am pretty confident this is the correct one, will confirm when the part arrives and am able to install it.

I also wanted to drop a note on how i removed the bad actuator. Like one person mentioned, it's pretty easy - my process was slightly different though...

1. Raise the catch on the glove box so the glove box can swing down and give you access to the actuator.
2. There are two larger screws that secure the actuator to the car. The top screw is no problem, just remove it. The second screw is behind the brass colored support. All I did to remove it was use a flathead screwdriver from under the support to muscle the actuator up enough to expose the screw from above the support (rather than having to go through it). From there i just used a deep socket to remove the screw pretty easily.
3. After removing the screws in step 2, i still couldn't remove the actuator because there was not enough space between the face of the actuator and the brass colored support we are having to work around. I tried yanking (and i really leaned into it) on the support like one person mentioned but it didn't work for me. All I did then was remove the 4 tiny screws from the face of the actuator, detached the face from the actuator and removed the face first. That then free'd up enough room for the rest of the actuator to come out with no issue.

Finally, as a workaround, to get cold air blowing again on the passenger side, I simply turned the bar the actuator was mounted to clockwise until it stopped (about a Qtr turn).
 
#26 ·
Flat head screwdriver

I had heat blowing from the pass/rear air and I checked on this awesome site and figured it had to be the one behind my glove box, opened it all the way, grabbed a big flat head screwdriver and forced the door open to cold. Thanks again to everybody at TrailVoy. I'll replace is before we get cold weather:D
 
#27 ·
Thanks

Thank you to everyone who contributes to this forum, the information and tips are invaluable.

I too had the Passenger temp actuator go bad, it only blew hot air on passenger and back blowers. With the information provided on this site I had the courage and knowledge that I could replace it.

Special thanks to dougbaker78 and DBriles as both your tips and techniques provided me with all I needed.:thx
 
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