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Motor Mount Replacement

135K views 86 replies 55 participants last post by  steviemal22 
#1 ·
I have been tinkering with the idea of changing my own Motor Mounts. However, after reading several posts and checking out a few how-to's the process seems a little more involved than what I may like to get into.

However, while I was inspecting a few posts and inspecting the engine itself, I was wondering if anyone else has ever changed the mounts without taking off the Fan clutch and jacking the enigne up as far as it could go. My question is this. Since there is a top engine mount bracket that bolts to the engine, would it be possible to simply brace the engine, unbolt the top bracket from the engine. Remove the the old MM and replace it with the new one. Put the bracket back on the engine. Put the nut back on the top of the new MM.

Just asking.
 
#2 ·
I have done it, its pretty easy! Took me a few mins each side.

This is the way I did them

1: secure the car on flat surface
2: unbolt the plastic covering the oil pan
3: Completely unbolt one of the motor mounts, theres a top bolt and a lower bolt. You will need a long extension for both and maybe even a breaker bar.
4: Loosen the opposite side mount, but leave the nuts threaded a bit.
5: Grab a decent jack and a piece of 2x4 or any wood to help protect the oil pan. Slowly start jacking up the oil pan just enough to give you enough room to slide the motor mount out.
6: Slide the new motor mount, making sure to line up the top and lower key holes, and now slowly lower the engine just enough to barely get the nuts on.
7: Do the same for the opposite side motor mount.
8: Carefully lower the engine, and tighten up the motor mount bolts.
9: Bolt back on the oil pan splash gaurd
 
#12 ·
OK I'm looking at getting my motor mounts replaced this weekend. I've been searching and reading, and this sounds pretty straightforward... Then I looked under the hood and :confused:

Passenger side, yes, I can see it sitting straight down there. Long extension should do it fine. Cool.

Driver side however is below the computer and a bunch of piping/wiring/etc. How the heck am I supposed to get to it? :confused: Or am I just blind and stupid :crazy:
 
#3 ·
Clarification

When I was researching this, some other posts stated that they had to remove the fan clutch to have enough room to jack up the engine to remove the old mounts and install the new ones.

Based on what you have written, you did not do any of that. Obviously you had plenty of room to install your new ones. Would that be correct?
 
#5 ·
When I was researching this, some other posts stated that they had to remove the fan clutch to have enough room to jack up the engine to remove the old mounts and install the new ones.

Based on what you have written, you did not do any of that. Obviously you had plenty of room to install your new ones. Would that be correct?
I didnt have any problems the way I did it. I would replace both front mounts, theres no need really to do the rear transmission mount
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the quick instructions

This procedure worked for me no other items had to be removed, I think the important part was leaving one slightly bolted while replacing the other one so the engine rotates a bit instead of going straight up leaving a bit more clearence room for the middle of the engine (fan shroud, throttle body) which is the limiting factor on jacking the engine up.

Compared to my old 99 Jimmy this was heavenly
 
#7 ·
I have to give a pat on the back to several folks here on the forum.

I had what I originally preceived as a "miss" or rough idle in the motor of my 02 TB. She had right at 100,000 miles so I did the usual (as suggested here) like new Delco plugs, trans fluid and filter, cleaning of the throttle body and such, "roughness" persisted then I began listening to what Roadie. ibidu1, and several other members were saying about motor mounts. Well yesterday I installed my new GM motor mounts and just daummmm. Feels like I'm driving a brand new vehicle. Smooth as silk. New mounts made a world of difference.

Thanks guys.:thumbsup:
 
#9 · (Edited)
Never Again! :mad: :hissy: This is the worst **** i have ever done didn't unhook anything but had a helluva time gettin the new mounts in cause the old ones were so compressed! I'll tell ya if it weren't for my bench grinder i'd be majorly pissed lol. The new ones needed at least another 1/4 inch to go in. Managed to get them in by grinding a lil over a 1/4 inch off the new ones. Which was easy cause they have about a 1/2 inch of non threaded portion thank god! :bonk: But finally got em on there and hope i never have to do it again seeing as i'm at 225,000 miles right now. Runs smooth as silk now! Next goes the Exhaust manifold and gasket....Sighs! :ugh: :suicide:


Just a reminder: It won't hurt to GRIND SOME OFF! Save yourself some trouble and if it won't fit GRIND GRIND GRIND! That's my advice for the day lol!
 
#10 ·
I just received my motor mounts from GMC part direct. Man those things are not cheap, looks like a big ball of rubber. Anyway, I'm getting ready to mount those in a few days. Idle is super rough, my headliner adhesive detached from the roof and now makes a racket! At least I get a massage during idle.:) Thought cleaning throttle body and installing new plugs would take care of it but no.:no:
 
#11 ·
Completed in just shy of an hour. It was a cakewalk. Tip: I removed the two bolts that hold the top of the fan shroud in place so it would raise up with the motor. Otherwise, I found the fan would hit it and force it upward, causing it to start to crack.

Easy job and my TB EXT feels like a brand new vehicle.
 
#14 ·
I don't see it being as easy as he said. Especially if you have a 4x4 model, the extra drivetrain components get in the way.

Due to a repair gone wrong, my Trailblazer is in the shop and while they are working on it they are putting in my new motor mounts for me (they're having to unbolt the engine anyway). My passenger side mount is torn and the driver side is worn.

It isn't recommended on here to go with aftermarket motor mounts. Apparently the aftermarket missed the mark completely on these and made them too stiff. OEMs are highly preferred in this case.
 
#15 ·
Just installed them yesterday. Kind of a pain, had to grind off about 1/4" from both top and bottom bolts. Turned on engine, and it was very smooth. Hard to believe that the motor mounts, even when compared to the new ones, looked pretty good, but what a difference! Smooth as butter now.:thumbsup:
 
#17 ·
I got them from gmpartsdirect for something like $65 each. I did only the two motor mounts and not the trans. I've read it wasn't necessary so I didn't bother. My old mounts were about 5/8" squat, didn't look like much but it felt (idles and started) much smoother. All I can say is it was worth it. :yes:
Auto part Gas
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
First of all i would like to thank Mr Roadie and all the member of Trailvoy for the solution.
my TB was vibrating so much that it was really irritating me espcially when it was engaged in drive and the ac on.after reading the post i decided to change the motor mount,after the replacement there was a big change in my vehicle it is so smooth and no vibration at all even when i used start the vehicle it was giving a diffrent type of vibration as if i am starting the truck,now i dont even feel that viration.today my wife was asking to start the car, she was shocked that when i told her that the car's engine is aready running.
Trailvoy has really solved my most of the problem including this i really thank all the mod and the members for being very supportive and patience in solving problems for our members
i have attached the pic of my damged mounts





Before
View My Video

After changing the mounts

View My Video
 
#22 ·
Done, OMG what a difference

thanks to all for all the great input. i got my new mounts in and what a difference. my truck feels brand new, even at start up. it is quiet and vibration free.
one note, do not loosen one side too much or the engine won't lift enough on the other side to take the mount out. loosen a little bit the opposite side of the lifting. piece of cake.
also, get an 18 deep socket for the top screws. i had to do mine with a small adjustable wrench.. very little room on the driver's side but doable.
thanks again...:grouphug::grouphug::grouphug::thx:thx:thx
 
#23 ·
I just purchased a 2004 Envoy with 100k-miles to be used for occasional hauling from Home Depot and utilty trailer use. When I first looked at it I noticed vibration and was concerned. Thanks to Trailvoy forums I was able to determine the cause and cost of solution. Ended up negotiating an additional $500 reduction in price for someting that I can now fix for less than $200.
:hail::hail::thumbsup:
 
#25 ·
I'm thinking about doing this but am concerned about the mixed messages here about how easy/hard it is. I have a 4.2L XL 4x4. Are the extra 4x4 components going to get in the way? Do I have to grind some stuff out?

Thanks.
 
#26 ·
You can grind/cut a threaded stud on the motor mount shorter, remove the CV shafts to make it easier to jack up the engine, or remove the mounting brackets from the engine to assist. No way to tell which approach is going to be easier for your exact situation. You have to be creative and flexible when you get into it. Doing one side at a time to allow the engine to tilt as you raise it also is a useful tactic. Always use PB Blaster starting a day or two ahead of time to make it easier to remove bolts. It's not trivial, but accomplishing it can make you a more confident mechanic. :thumbsup:
 
#27 ·
Motor Mount R/R update

I replaced the passenger side mount first and that eliminated the vibration so i did not do the drivers side. I purchased 2 mounts, so now have a spare for when (and if) the drivers side goes out.
There is a heat shield on the passenger side (not one on drivers side) so I suspect that passenger side mount deteriorates from heat long before the drivers side goes??? The learning curve came into play (as is usual for me) so the job took me about 6-hours. Even with removing the fan shroud bolts to allow shroud to move with engine, the stress put on the fan-clutch is not trivial, so caution is advised. The GM service manual shows that fan-clutch and fan shroud should be removed before jacking the engine up to release the mounts and I now see why.
After further research it appears that failure of the fan-clutch is also a common problem with these vehicles so one should consider replacing the fan-clutch and the engine mounts at the same time. If and when my fan-clutch fails, I know that I will use that opportunity to replace the drivers side mount.
 
#28 ·
I replaced the passenger side mount first and that eliminated the vibration so i did not do the drivers side. I purchased 2 mounts, so now have a spare for when (and if) the drivers side goes out.
There is a heat shield on the passenger side (not one on drivers side) so I suspect that passenger side mount deteriorates from heat long before the drivers side goes??? The learning curve came into play (as is usual for me) so the job took me about 6-hours. Even with removing the fan shroud bolts to allow shroud to move with engine, the stress put on the fan-clutch is not trivial, so caution is advised. The GM service manual shows that fan-clutch and fan shroud should be removed before jacking the engine up to release the mounts and I now see why.
After further research it appears that failure of the fan-clutch is also a common problem with these vehicles so one should consider replacing the fan-clutch and the engine mounts at the same time. If and when my fan-clutch fails, I know that I will use that opportunity to replace the drivers side mount.

When replacing motor mounts one should replace all the mounts if you plan on keeping the car for awhile. What happens is the rest of the almost worn out mounts put more strain on the brand new mount. I would replace both sides!
 
#32 ·
Well, I have 2 new motor mounts ready to go in, and am thankful I found this thread!!

My 02 Envoy started vibrating so badly at idle, and when you first start it you can feel (and hear) the engine move back and forth! Its not good. I knew the motor mounts wouldnt last forever but man when they go - they really go!

It sounds pretty straightforward.

Question: Do you have to remove JUST the oil change cover to get to the lower mount bolts/nuts? The top ones look (somewhat) easy to get at, Im sure I wont have a problem with those.

Oh, and I bought the Anchor brand ones before I read this :( Thankfully, they have a lifetime warranty.
 
#33 ·
Motor Mount

I am about to replace my motor mounts, 02 trailblazer LS (GM Part # 15062381), and looking at prices online.

Rockauto has OEM mount (DEA Part # A5137) for $42.79.

Parts4Chevys.com has the mounts for $61.39

gmpartsdirect.com has the mounts for $56.45.

After shipping, gmpartsdirect & parts4chevys are almost identical.

Are there any differences for best mount? I know the Anchor brand mounts are not good.

Any other advice would be appreciated...
 
#34 ·
I am about to replace my motor mounts, 02 trailblazer LS (GM Part # 15062381), and looking at prices online.

Rockauto has OEM mount (DEA Part # A5137) for $42.79.

Parts4Chevys.com has the mounts for $61.39

gmpartsdirect.com has the mounts for $56.45.

After shipping, gmpartsdirect & parts4chevys are almost identical.

Are there any differences for best mount? I know the Anchor brand mounts are not good.

Any other advice would be appreciated...
Do NOT go with DEA either... Ive heard bad things about them too.

You're definitely gonna want to go with OEM with this.
 
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