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How to replace your ignition switch (pics)

416K views 259 replies 131 participants last post by  chem_man 
#1 ·
Okay, I replaced my ignition switch yesterday. I was nervous, I had read numerous posts about this, but some of them conflicted, and I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into. I haven’t done a whole lot of work on newer car systems, although I did replace the stepper motors on my Envoy a while ago. The switch replacement was unbelievably simple, and anyone can do it.

Anyway, I decided to make this post, hopefully it’ll help someone who needs to do this in the future.

(FYI, I have a 2004 Envoy XUV, with foot pedal adjustment and tilt wheel controls on the steering column, and had no problem at all.)

First, you’ll only need two thin regular screwdrivers and the replacement switch to do the job.

Disconnect your negative battery cable. I’ve heard that you should disable the airbag, but I’ve read that others did not do this, and neither did I. Just to be safe, I tried to stay away from the front of the wheel while working on the switch.

Take one of your screwdrivers and gently pry the covers of the steering column off. They should separate pretty easily, then you just need to remove the bottom cover to get access to the switch.

Once the cover is off, you’ll see the bottom of the switch where the harness plugs in, the rest of the switch is slid up into a metal sleeve.

Take your two screwdrivers and insert them into the two holes in the metal sleeve. This pushes back the spring tabs on the ignition switch, allowing you to pull the switch assembly down and out of the metal sleeve. The pictures below have two red arrows showing where the two screwdrivers need to be inserted. The yellow circle shows where the harness connects to the switch. The last picture shows the switch removed from the sleeve, but not disconnected from the harness.







Disconnect the switch from the harness.

Look at the teeth of the old switch and compare them to the new switch. Align the new switch gear with the old switch gear. There is a gap in the gears you should see that greatly helps with the alignment.

Plug the harness into the new switch.

Insert the new switch into the metal sleeve until you hear the spring tabs engage the holes in the sleeve.

Reconnect your column cover.

Reconnect your negative battery terminal.

Start her up.

Hope this helps. Took me about 15-20 minutes to do, and most of that time was spent getting the stupid harness off the old switch.

(Moderators, feel free to relocate this post if necessary.)
 
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#4 ·
Thanks for the kind words... Like I mentioned in my post for help, this place has saved me a ton of time, hassle, and money, so I felt it was my duty to give a little back.

I noticed (just now) that I posted this under the 6 cylinder OEM issues forum, is there a way to put it into the 8 cylinder one too? (I have the 8 cylinder in my ride.)

I'm just thinking it might help even more people.
 
#249 ·
Nine times out of 10 I found out that it is just the ignition switch after reading page after page after page on issues now this is my third time messing with it definitely buy one or two keep one at home and one in the car at all times I also keep the stupid plastic piece that covers that area off so I don't have to keep messing with it every 8 to 9 months
 
#8 ·
Ignition switch harness

Hello,
I probably need to change the switch like everyone else as most times it will start normally. Once every 30 times or so it will have nothing, when I release and start it again it starts up, but once, it went 3 times in a row with nothing then started the fourth time. I guess I'm on borrowed time before it goes completely out. I read the post and took off the steering cover to have a looksee and with the posts I saw it should be no problem. The comment about the most time being taking the harness off the switch; so I don't reinvent the problem solving how does the harness come off? Depress one or two tabs like most harnesses?
 
#132 ·
Hello,
in the middle of replacing ignition switch on 07 tbss read all the info on removing bottom plastic cover but cant get past the tilt and foot pedal levers. Should i remove the steering wheel to get the bottom plastic off? any other suggestions would be a lifesaver! thanks :)
 
#10 ·
Ignition switch ordered

Okay, I ordered my ignition switch. Being in Paradise (Hawaii) no one had it in stock, I ordered it from Checkers (arriving on 17th). It is a Board Warner brand? (Phonetic spelling, not sure what it actually is) part # CS643 BWD, for $31.99. It has a lifetime warranty which is good after reading about all the failures. I looked at the AC Delco part photograph on the internet. It shows the switch as well as the wiring and harness electrical connection connected to the switch. Does it actually come with this? The way I was reading the posts you change out the switch and it seems like you reconnect the old wiring harness and connector? I guess I will also find out when my part comes on the 17th.
 
#14 ·
Ignition switch gear



Hello Roadie,
Since you are the guru. I changed the switch, maybe did not get the gear setting JUST RIGHT. It starts fine. When off and the key out the cylinder it has a little play in it. It will either be in an "off" position or with a little play the other way will be prior to the accessory position with only the gear indicator illuminated with the battery warning light on. Of course I make sure it is in the off position. Is this due to the switch gear teeth position? Any easier way to get it just right by setting it to a certain position with the key cylinder in a certain position to match? Or just trial and error, it seems there is only about 7 different teeth positions. Thanks.
 
#12 ·
ignition switch gear not just right?

OK, I changed my switch, but I guess when I put in the new one maybe I didn't align the gears exactly right like the old one? Initially it wouldn't start with the new switch, I played around positioning the gear till it started. But now, when I turn the car off the battery warning light stays on, it turns off when the engine is running. When the engine is off and key is out of the ignition the battery warning light is illuminated and the gear indicater (Park, neutral, drive, etc) is illuminated. My guess is the gear is not exactly right in the switch causing this. Anyway to get it set up right, other than trial and error of different positions. It seemed I got it exactly as the old one but maybe not, now the old one had changed as well fooling with it.
 
#13 ·
changed switch battery light on

OK I changed the ignition switch, I may not have had the gear perfect and exactly like the old one as it wouldn't star initially. I played with dieefernet gear settings till it started. Now when the car is off and key removed the battery warning light stays on as well as the gear selecter indicator is illuminated with the car off and key removed. Is it the gear on the switch is misaligned? How do I get an exact setting now?
 
#15 ·
The instructions all say to match the gear position coming out with the new one going in, don't they? Once it's mismatched, I don't know any way except experimentation to get it back. I suppose somebody could take a photo of one they take out when it's in the key off position.
 
#33 ·
help with new lock cyclinder


had to have locksmith bust out my ignition while on vacation to get it home. bought new lock cyclinder, removed what was left of the old one. Put in the new cyclinder but wont engage at all. Also, when you put the key in it does not make the dinging sound. I can pull the cyclinder out, use a tool and push the little white button up and then it dings.

after reading this post, do you think i need to undo the ignition module, then go through the 8 possible steps to get the ignition to work right? And also hoping that this will set the ignition right so that the dinger will go on. Hope this makes sense as i dont want to send it to a dealership.
 
#16 ·
Switch teeth

Thanks for answering, I guess I was looking for an easy way out rather than trial and error experimenting. When I took mines out the teeth were in the midway portion where you couldn't see a reference point like you would if it were towards either end which is different. My old one I moved the teeth till I hit the end and counted 4 teeth. I did that with the new switch but it didn't match up exactly as the key would go to accessory but no further and I couldn't get the key out unless I pressed the silver cylinder button below the key cylinder. So I did try to match it up to the old one but I guess not exactly I guess. Will try to experiment this weekend when the kids are sleeping.
 
#17 ·
Now Fixed

OK gang,
I removed my new ignition switch since after I changed it there was the battery warning light on with the key out. I moved the gear tooth one click to the left, reinstalled, and now it starts, acc mode is good, and off mode is good without the battery light on (which would cause infamous slow battery drain). So advice for future ignition switch replacements. Even though it is simple and says get new switch gear exactly in the same position as the old switch, you may not get it exactly just right. Once that happens and you turn the key it causes the gears to move also so when you take the switch out it may not be in the same position. So I recommend before taking the old switch out mark a tooth on one end as a reference point as to where it was with a permanent marker, You try to position the new switch gear in the exact same position. With the old one marked you can play with it to see how many clicks it is from the end and match the same to the new switch. It is no more than 8 clicks from end to end. I would also mark a tooth on the new switch in case it is not the right setting you have a reference point to move it one tooth over each time till you get it right. Hopefully you just get it right the first time but if Murphy hits you, you have a system and a reference point for the teeth. Anyway, thanks to all for the help and advice.
 
#183 ·
how can i take apart the key cylinder from ignition housing?

:ugh:
OK gang,
I removed my new ignition switch since after I changed it there was the battery warning light on with the key out. I moved the gear tooth one click to the left, reinstalled, and now it starts, acc mode is good, and off mode is good without the battery light on (which would cause infamous slow battery drain). So advice for future ignition switch replacements. Even though it is simple and says get new switch gear exactly in the same position as the old switch, you may not get it exactly just right. Once that happens and you turn the key it causes the gears to move also so when you take the switch out it may not be in the same position. So I recommend before taking the old switch out mark a tooth on one end as a reference point as to where it was with a permanent marker, You try to position the new switch gear in the exact same position. With the old one marked you can play with it to see how many clicks it is from the end and match the same to the new switch. It is no more than 8 clicks from end to end. I would also mark a tooth on the new switch in case it is not the right setting you have a reference point to move it one tooth over each time till you get it right. Hopefully you just get it right the first time but if Murphy hits you, you have a system and a reference point for the teeth. Anyway, thanks to all for the help and advice.
 
#20 ·
ignition switch and tilt lever

You just grab a firm hold and pull hard straight out which would be towards the driver door. It is a little hard. I read this post somewhere to pull hard. I initially tried pulling and when it didn't come off I didn't want to force it and break something so I just went back to trying to work the bottom steering wheel housing cover off and when I popped the bottom cover off it just happended to pull the tilt lever off also. So now that I have done it it does just pull out with some force just pull straight out towards the drive door, not out towards the driver seat, don't worry, as long as you are pulling out towards the driver door you can use force. It pulls out and then you can see it is just a plastic piece that fits in the slot just push it back in to get it in and it snaps in.
 
#21 ·
ignition switch timing

if the key is in "off" position, mechanically, but the indicators on the dash appear as if the key is in accessory position, couldnt you just pull the switch down enough to disengage the gear and put the key in accessory position or whatever position the electical switch indicates? maybe I dont get it.
 
#22 ·
Ignition switch

I guess in theory maybe you could pull the switch down and place it in acc then puch the switch back in. In my case I was in between settings as with the key out there was slight play in the key cylinder as I could move it very slightly where it would be "Off" or move it slightly and it would be in "Acc" mode, battery light/gear indicater light on. I just moved the gear toothe one at a time and trial and error I got it right after one tooth click change. Like I said there is 8 teeth positions from end to end so you should get it right within 8 tries.
 
#23 ·
Thanks alot mellis Great pics if I knew it was that easy I could have saved my self 380 dollars.The dealer really saw me coming.The switch had been acting up but of course it failed the night before our trip up north so at the time I was glad the dealer could squeeeeeze me in.:laugh:
 
#24 ·
Well my TBSS left me stranded in traffic yesterday morning. I had to get it towed right away as it was blocking traffic and it is under warranty so it went to the dealer. Anyway, I read the code with my Aerforce and it was code P1682. Looked it up in my service manual and it has to do with the ignition switch/circuit.

What do you bet?

Get looked at tomorrow (Monday) morning.
 
#25 ·
reply to ssilicon

More than likely it is your ignition switch.The funny thing is when I complained to GM they said that it was not a common problem with these trucks.If you check out all these threads on it you wil see that it is a very common problem.There should be an extended warranty so I can add it to my collection (gas tank,gas lines,tail lights etc.).:duh:
 
#26 ·
It was the switch. Up and running again. My 3/36 runs out next month. My 5 yr power train has 2 more months after that yet. Not sure if ignition is considered part of power train or not. But if not and it happens again later, I will replace with a non OEM one (which hopefully is designed/built right).
 
#28 ·
i have been browsing this wondeful site for the past few days. My wife has a 05 Envoy and it won't hold a charge. I was going to take it to a local repair shop this morning and i went out to start it up after it being on the charger all night and there was nothing. SO after reading this tread i went out and bought a new ignition switch. After i got it in the flashers came on and won't shut off and it still won't start so i put it back on the charger. I really don't mind taking it to the repair shop at this point but now i can't jump it or even shift it into neutral to have a tow truck pick it up...Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#29 ·
Do you have a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery and various wires? Without that, we'd be merely guessing and wasting effort.

If it won't hold a charge, and it's the OEM battery from 2005, it's long since ceased to be reliable. Just swap the battery and see if it all starts behaving.
 
#30 ·
yeah i used a multimeter to check the voltage and it was right around 12 when it was fully charged. I check a few various things in the engine bay to see what had power and what didn't. But without knowing what it supposed to have power and what is not when the car is off i was kinda stuck. I have a tow truck on the way right now to take it to a repair shop.
 
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