Front Wheel bearing hub assembly - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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  #1  
Old 07-05-2007, 10:07 PM
voy_er voy_er is offline
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Question Front Wheel bearing hub assembly

I have just purchased some front wheel hubs off Ebay (240.00 for the pair, lifetime warranty)

Mine are now humming, I'm not sure which side but I figured I will replace them both, now (102,000 / 04 Envoy)

The dealer told me they cant just replace the bearing, but just install new hubs..?

It seems like a waste of metal to me but whatever.
can they be rebuilt?

Does anybody have a write up on how to do this and what special tools I may need?

I have replaced my brakes before and I am familiar with the trucks front end.

I have read on this forum that its not too terribly difficult,but the other posts weren't really clear on the actual procedure.

Do I need to undo the spindle looking thing in the center of the wheel?
or just the bolts holding it in on the back?

I know I have to remove the caliper,bracket and rotors. but not real sure about the rest.

any help and/or tips would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2007, 06:21 AM
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MCOMEAU334 MCOMEAU334 is offline
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They are very easy to replace, just use a good hub asy, or you will be doing it again. We have tried to use the cheap hub asy at our shop and have had no luck. Use a Timkin or National hub. (that is what GM uses) Good quaility hub is the best you can do. You will also get a very good warenty if you use the "GM" hub asy. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2007, 10:58 AM
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I haven't done it, but am about to in a week or two. I think it's just a question of removing the upper ball joint so the steering knuckle can be tilted away from the truck, after removing the caliper and other junk in the way. Probably remove the sway bar end links, and shock/spring strut as well. Not sure if you need to pull the tie rod ends. The CV shaft is held in by a 35mm nut - definitely buy that socket. I've seen remanufactured CV shafts for sale, but never a hub/bearing assembly, so I think they just don't recycle those puppies.

You might also start using penetrating oil a few days before the job to help get stuff out after so many miles.
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:09 AM
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Frostee Frostee is offline
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did it 2-3 weeks ago. fairly straightforward job. here's my thread about it:

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=27404

basically:

1 - take wheel, caliper off.
2 - use something in between the disc vanes and mounting bracket to stop the disc/hub from rotating.
3 - remove the hub nut (35mm) from the shaft end.
4 - remove mounting bracket and disc.
5 - remove hub assembly. do not pull straight out on the hub assembly, you need to keep the axle shaft in place. you may need a puller if its stuck together good. mine came out out easy, it was the hub itself that was a pain (lots of buildup between it and the knuckle)
6 - grease up the splines on the axle shaft and insert into the new hub assembly.

do all the steps in reverse to re-mount everything.

OH - and dont forget the wheel-speed sensor. the new assembly i got came with one, so i just unplugged the old one on the body of the TB. easy wiring to follow to get all the clips.

EDIT: you only need to worry about the front axle info if you have a 4WD model.
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:00 PM
voy_er voy_er is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCOMEAU334 View Post
They are very easy to replace, just use a good hub asy, or you will be doing it again. We have tried to use the cheap hub asy at our shop and have had no luck. Use a Timkin or National hub. (that is what GM uses) Good quaility hub is the best you can do. You will also get a very good warenty if you use the "GM" hub asy. Good luck.

I'm not interested into starting a debate over the quality of my part.
its a bca btw

just the actual procedure , thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by the roadie View Post
I haven't done it, but am about to in a week or two. I think it's just a question of removing the upper ball joint so the steering knuckle can be tilted away from the truck, after removing the caliper and other junk in the way. Probably remove the sway bar end links, and shock/spring strut as well. Not sure if you need to pull the tie rod ends. The CV shaft is held in by a 35mm nut - definitely buy that socket. I've seen remanufactured CV shafts for sale, but never a hub/bearing assembly, so I think they just don't recycle those puppies.

You might also start using penetrating oil a few days before the job to help get stuff out after so many miles.
good god! all that for a wheel bearing?

I have a 2wd
hopefully I wont have to remove or loosen every suspension componant like your describing.
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:23 PM
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Frostee Frostee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voy_er View Post
good god! all that for a wheel bearing?

I have a 2wd
hopefully I wont have to remove or loosen every suspension componant like your describing.

for 2WD, it should only be this (I'm pretty sure there are no axles in the front to worry about. others can clarify this for sure):

1 - take wheel, caliper off.
2 - remove mounting bracket and disc.
3 - remove hub assembly.

do all the steps in reverse to re-mount everything.

and again, dont forget the wheel-speed sensor.
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:24 PM
voy_er voy_er is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostee View Post

1 - take wheel, caliper off.
2 - use something in between the disc vanes and mounting bracket to stop the disc/hub from rotating.

3 - remove the hub nut (35mm) from the shaft end.

4 - remove mounting bracket and disc.
5 - remove hub assembly. do not pull straight out on the hub assembly, you need to keep the axle shaft in place. you may need a puller if its stuck together good. mine came out out easy, it was the hub itself that was a pain (lots of buildup between it and the knuckle)
6 - grease up the splines on the axle shaft and insert into the new hub assembly. [/I]

where is this Nut?
my 2wd has splines in the center of the hub
I do not see a nut holding it on.
just some bolts in the back

Is it the spline I have to remove, I don't see a 35 mm nut anywhere

Do you guys have a pic of this on a 2wd vehicle

Thanks

haha

we must have posted at the same time

thanks for the clarification
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2007, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voy_er View Post
good god! all that for a wheel bearing?
Not at all. I was wrong. Shhhh, don't tell everybody.

I was confusing what you have to do to change the 4WD CV shafts. For THAT you have to tilt down the steering knuckle, etc. I assume everybody has 4WD - I'm like that. PS - if you filled out your profile I wouldn't have made that goof.
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  #9  
Old 07-09-2007, 07:58 PM
voy_er voy_er is offline
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So swapped my wheel hubs today

it was a piece of cake!

everything came off easily and went back together just fine
The hardest part was the wiring for the abs, those little clips were on their pretty good.

Now the Envoy rides smooth as glass again.

when I spin the old bearing they don't make any noise but I feel alot of resistance in them compared to the new ones.

I heard one user refer to their car sounding like a freight train when it had bad wheel bearings, I certainly agree with that

but now its smooth an quite again.

Total DIY project cost
$240.00

next project
Ball Joints
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:48 PM
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MichEnvoyBoy MichEnvoyBoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voy_er View Post
So swapped my wheel hubs today

Now the Envoy rides smooth as glass again.

when I spin the old bearing they don't make any noise but I feel alot of resistance in them compared to the new ones.

next project
Ball Joints
I too replaced my wheel bearing/hub assembly with the BCA one on Ebay. I only replaced my pass. side (drivers side still fine at 100,600 miles). There is nothing wrong with the lifetime warranty BCA hubs at all. Well, except you save a TON of money buying the BCA's off ebay vs. paying $650 for the BCA's at Autozone or Murrays! (check it - its true)

Why do you think your ball joints are bad? We have almost the same mileage, I have an 02 'Voy and my ball joints are tight. My boots are even torn, but every time Im down there I shove some synthetic grease in there with a clean screwdriver

Heres my thread with a price comparison of the BCA's when I replaced my hub:
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=23763
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