I'll just add a few comments from my experience.
1. These models do not require the entire fascia to be removed to get at the cluster. The cluster has a plastic shroud around it that is held in by four screws. Follow this link, but ignore the steps around screw removal by the cigarette lighter.
2. Both the shroud and the cluster will come out with a bit of care and rotation of the part. Do not, wrench, prise or force the assembly. They will come out of the dash. Take a picture of the orientation as you remove the assembly so you know the start point on reassembly. Drop the steering column to its lowest point and cover the steering column with a thin cloth so to prevent scratches.
3. The needle dials........This is how they are attached........They are a push, friction fit onto the motor spindle. Gently, rotate each dial counter clockwise to its motor stop point. You will feel the dial 'stop' as the motor hits it stop point. Mark with masking tape as per the excellent write up at the start of this thread. Now, you can continue to move the needle further counterclockwise, the needle will be rotating on the motor shaft at this point........the motor will not be rotating....it's stop point will be where you marked the masking tape in the previous sentence. Ease / gently pry the needle off the motor shaft.
4. Soldering -
. The objective here is a light touch. You are not welding up suspension springs. Remember you are saving yourselves several hundred bucks here so spend out on the following:
• Solder sucker with a spring loaded trigger. These are quicker to operate than a bulb device. Do not attempt this repair with braid. We are not soldering water piping……….(OK I’ll shut up).
• 15 Watt soldering iron with a pointed tip. Mains operated not battery.
• Needle nosed pliers.
• Thin solder
• Small soft brush (Dashboard detailing brush)
The objective is to touch the soldered joint just long enough to melt the solder on the joint then get the sucker over the joint and press the release button to suck up the solder. Two to three seconds on the joint should be sufficient. Then use the pliers to gently wiggle the desoldered motor pin to free the joint. Try to use the pliers to break the joint free rather than relying on the soldering iron over and over, this way you will greatly reduce the chances of burning up the board. These are very delicate boards. Use the brush to gently brush the area clean after all pins are desoldered.
When you seat the new motor and are ready to re-solder….touch the tip of the iron with some fresh solder, make sure there are no blobs of solder on the end of the iron. Then put the iron onto the motor pin and touch the iron tip with new solder into the joint. Do not blow on the soldered joint to cool it as this can cause ‘dry’ joints and continuity problems. Gently brush the area.
Reassemble as per earlier threads. Push fit the needles onto the motors and rotate CCW until motor stops, then continue CCW with dial until dial lines up with the masking tape marks.
Make sure all instrument cluster is clean, make sure no dust is inside the clear bezel before reassembly. Invisible Glass aerosol is an excellent cleaner.