P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank1 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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OEM Issues Original Equipment Repairs and/or Problems

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  #1  
Old 03-26-2009, 10:00 AM
scm scm is offline
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P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank1

P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank1

Got this code this morning in both the actual code version and the pending version. Factory warranty just ran out. Doubt this is covered under power train warranty. Anybody ever seen this or have a book that diagnoses it? The only place on the internet I could find anything even related to this is a toyota off road forum which I doubt will help me.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/...ta/0060059.pdf

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2009, 02:32 PM
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rbarrios rbarrios is offline
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I think thats the valve that alot of people on here change out.
It turns out- it sort of rusts.
easy to change-
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2009, 02:36 PM
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check out this thread- has a pic of the valve.

though that code is P0410--- Ive never seen your code..

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthrea...valve&pa ge=2
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:17 PM
929hit 929hit is offline
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Yea, I checked and i can't find the code you have... P0410 is there.
Whatever you used to get that DTC code, are you sure you trust it?
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:28 PM
scm scm is offline
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So your thinking my code is related to the solenoid valve in the linked thread's picture?
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  #6  
Old 03-26-2009, 03:31 PM
scm scm is offline
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I used an Actron Code reader. I trust it.
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2009, 03:36 PM
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PO410 is a secondary air injection DTC, however, it is not specific...

P2440 is specific to the valve...
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:21 AM
scm scm is offline
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Got the valve off of the engine last night. Looked into the air intake of it and there was rust everywhere. The inside looks like the bottom was a rolled wave of metal, a metal column up the center and a large circular disk on the top with no lubrication to be found.

The air hose that goes to the pump I believe pulls normal dirty air because it is attached to the air box cover and not a location behind the air filter. This whole system looks like questionable design to me.

The disk was definitely in the up position but I was unable to blow air through the valve in either direction(blowing in the intake and blowing in the exhaust outlet). Is there some sort of check or one way pressurized valve also in these so when they fail like mine exhaust gases can not be forced the opposite way through them and damage the air pump? If there is, is that why the air pump is so big?

The upper and lower portion of the valve was held together by 3 torx screws. The one closest to the intake was impossible to get out even after an hour of penetrating oil. Looks like I am ordering a whole new valve. Anyone know of a reputable place to get cheap GM parts? The dealership wants $227.37 for the valve and $7.06 for the gasket. Once I get the new one it should take me less than an hour to put it on. I just hope this is the problem for $250. I hope the replacement ones are better than the factory installed ones because I really do not look forward to paying for this every 40k miles.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:15 PM
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I have an 03.. so I dont have this part on mine..
But from reading on here..
I believe the new part is an updated part... to solve this rusting issue and keep moisture out...

I think I also recall that the part is much cheaper than that elsewhere.... (online maybe)
www.parts4chevy.com I think...

Also- you may want to follow the hoses to the Air pump and see if no water has collected at the pump...

(im typing all this from memory---stuff Ive read on here-- since Ive never actually seen these parts... but search a few more threads and they may have info from others who have changed the part and encountered moisture and where they bought their parts)
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:23 PM
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found this on another post...
also mentions that the part can be had for $90.
Another person posted that they removed the hose and water came out.



Just know that diagnosing this is time consuming since the "system" is only active for a few seconds on cold start.

for now:
1.) wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. Disconnect the hose from check valve (located passenger side--the transmission dip stick is attached to the bolts that hold it to the block). Start the truck, you should hear a nasty sound for about 30 seconds to a minute. If you don't its your check valve.
1a.) If it is your check valve, you can try to clean it. Get some throttle body cleaner, remove the check valve spray thouroughly (I did it a couple of times to get all the carbon and rust out) and let dry reinstall and follow above instructions. If no go replace check valve

2.) wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. remove the fattest hose from the underside of air intake hose (I think thats where it is, I have a CAI so Its hard to know where it is exactly OEM) and from the check valve. Have someone else start the truck. Feel the hoses, you should feel sucking and blowing (I can't remember which is supposed to blow / suck) If you don't feel anything then its the pump (maybe -- read further)
2a.) check fuses there are about 3 in the manual listed for air pump (if bad fuse replace and retest, make sure to check the fuses after to make sure that the pump isnt blowing fuses)
2b.) Locate the air pump its driver side mid car just behind the cross member for the frame. There are two wiring harnesess one that goes into the relay (grey box) and one that has two fat wires (thats the power plug for the pump.) disconnect that one, wait for cold start and start truck while having a multimeter attached set on DC mode. If you get a reading of 0 then replace the relay. if you get power 12-15 volts replace the motor.
3.) If both the check valve and the pump are testing out ok it could be a clogged hose.
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2013 Equinox-3.6L DI- Best MPG 35
2010 Traverse-3.6L DI Best MPG 31.3
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