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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires > OEM Issues

OEM Issues OEM Repairs & Problems

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  #51  
Old 10-18-2009, 01:19 PM
enga enga is offline
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Traded in at 162.5K miles Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Forest Green Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MN, USA
Posts: 68
Here is what you need:

35mm deep well socket for the center axle nut.

18mm for the hub and caliper mounting bolts.

19 mm for the wheel lugs

Locite med blue for the wheel hubs bolts

Some wire or bungee cord to hang the caliper out of the way.

Regular screwdriver to undo the abs cable clips


Torque specs:

Axle nut is 103 ft-lbs.

Wheel hub and bearing assembly is 77 ft-lbs

Caliper mounting bolts is 130 ft-lbs.

Wheel lug nuts is 103 ft-lbs.
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  #52  
Old 10-20-2009, 04:02 PM
eeehabt's Avatar
eeehabt eeehabt is offline
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2003 GMC Envoy SLT XL
Dark Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Hi,
Have you seen the sticky in this part of the forum?
It's a great help if you're doing it the first time.
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  #53  
Old 02-02-2010, 09:44 AM
JerryIrons JerryIrons is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
Steel Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Western NY
Posts: 85
Just as a follow up to my wheel bearing fun,

I ended up having to replace my left front wheel bearing AGAIN, this after about 22,000 miles on the new one I had purchased in march. In december, I started hearing growling again, and by the end of the year I bought a new right side bearing just assuming that the right side was going bad too. (about 88000 miles on the tb). Well the sound improved, but I'm still hearing a growling noise. ??? I ended up looking everywhere for leaks, checked all of my u joints, changed my transfer case fluid and the front differential and couldn't really find anything obvious...Now I'm thinking do I have a bad shaft bearing? I remember that bearing said timken on it and also made in china... Anyhow bought a new bearing and replaced it - front end is all quiet now. (new bearing was actually free replacement from carquest) Before I raised the vehicle I did check that axle nut and it was tight - I'm thinking did I forget to torque that, wtf? Maybe I ended up getting one of those timken counterfeits who knows.

I swear when I go to buy any kind of automotive parts from anywhere I feel like I am rolling the dice in regards to quality.
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  #54  
Old 02-02-2010, 11:08 AM
the roadie's Avatar
the roadie the roadie is offline
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2004 GMC Envoy SLT "Roadiemobile"
Extreme Offroad Pewter 4.2L I6 4X4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryIrons View Post
...Before I raised the vehicle I did check that axle nut and it was tight - I'm thinking did I forget to torque that,...
Just so you don't worry, axle nut torque doesn't affect anything in the bearing. It's not the older design style where the bearing preload is critical. All the nut does is keep the CV shaft in the sealed hub. 2WD trucks run around all the time with nothing installed there. (Although we've seen pics of a little stub shaft put in there on a 2WD SS - not entirely sure why they did that.)
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  #55  
Old 02-03-2010, 02:21 AM
JerryIrons JerryIrons is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
Steel Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the roadie View Post
Just so you don't worry, axle nut torque doesn't affect anything in the bearing. It's not the older design style where the bearing preload is critical. All the nut does is keep the CV shaft in the sealed hub. 2WD trucks run around all the time with nothing installed there. (Although we've seen pics of a little stub shaft put in there on a 2WD SS - not entirely sure why they did that.)
Yes you are right, thanks, there was no mention of "tightening and turning" in the manual like you do with bearings that you pack yourself...definitely a bad bearing assembly - or they forgot to add grease! I would have liked to cut it open but probably had to return it for the free replacement - thought about that too late.

I have been reading this site and there is a ton of good info here! Now I am starting to think of ideas on jazzing up my own a little...
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  #56  
Old 03-09-2010, 05:57 PM
stonews stonews is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Laconia, NH
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Your not alone!

Replaced both of mine back a little over a year and a half ago with Timken's..... now my right one seams to be gone again!!!! Truck has just hit 80K.... its also time for new brake rotors..... for a second time!!! Paid for the "good" parts last time... May be looking at the cheap stuff on the second time around!
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  #57  
Old 05-11-2010, 07:10 PM
SVZuki SVZuki is offline
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2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Majestic Red Metallic 4.2L I6 2WD
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Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Is there any difference in the wheel bearings between the 4wd and 2wd?

Edit: NVM, answer found.
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  #58  
Old 06-07-2010, 09:50 AM
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GunnerNY GunnerNY is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Orangetown/Troy, NY Home/School
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About to replace my front left bearing at 47,500... means no LEDs for a bit
__________________
Can't I just wake up and have an SS???
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  #59  
Old 08-08-2010, 08:59 PM
jkl69_98 jkl69_98 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Light Pewter Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lebanon, IN
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Same problem with bearings

I've been reading through many posts of people who have had problems with thier front wheel bearings going out. I had to change mine because I felt a vibration and heard the droning sound others have mentioned. I took it in to have it realligned and the tires rotated because I thought this might have been the original problem. The tech said that the right side bearing was going bad. I assumed he ment the passenger side, but turns out it was the drivers side.

I then thought the factory bearing went out because I had slid into a curb with that wheel the first winter I had the vehicle.

I changed both in July of '09 and now at least one needs changed again. Of course it had to happen just outside of the 1-yr warranty and I can't exactly tell which side it is even with swerving left and right and taking some corners slightly faster than I should. One I bought one at Advanced Auto and one at O'Reillys so I wouldn't doubt if both need changed again.

I've been trying to find out what others use and if it worth spending the extra cash on the more expensive hubs. I think I'll check out the mibearings.com site since others have mentioned using them.

I really like my TB, but as others have said, it seems that you get one thing fixed and onther thing breaks. I just recently replaced one of the transmission cooler lines going between the tranny and the radiator. The lines were relatively cheap, about $50 from the dealer for both peices. I couldn't cut out the bad spot and put a rubber line in it's place since the hole in the line was right next to the catalytic converter.

If those people who have purchased and installed the bearings from mibearings.com, or any wheel bearings for that matter, would leave some feedback on how long they have been installed and what thier expreience has been would probably be helpful to the rest of us. I know when I finally get mine replaced, I'll try to report back every so often to let others know my experience.
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  #60  
Old 08-08-2010, 10:21 PM
JerryIrons JerryIrons is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
Steel Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Posts: 85
I bought bearings at Carquest, they were about $150 or so, and they sucked. (both sides). One of them said Timken and made in China. I replaced one of them within the warranty period and it went bad as well. The other side went bad under warranty too but by that time I was sick of changing wheel bearings and just threw it out. I finally ended up buying high end bearings at NAPA, around $250ish apiece I think and made in USA. I only have about 10-15k miles on them though so no idea how long they will last. They are nice and quiet right now though.
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