Tie Rod Replacement How to - Page 3 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > The 02-09 "How-To" and DIY Section

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  #21  
Old 06-23-2009, 09:55 PM
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markarock markarock is offline
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One additional tip, from personal experience.

Before popping the tapered shaft out of the steering knuckle, be sure you remove the nut completely, and then run it back on and off a couple of times so that it threads on and off easily.

I didn't do this. I popped my tie rod end loose after loosening the nut only halfway, (so that when I removed it, it would not drop down and out) (I used a pickle fork). I did this on my 03 Envoy with about 150k and many Cleveland winters. The threads were rusty and I did not PB blast them first.

Well, once the shaft is loose, it turns inside the tie rod end. I couldn't get the nut off! I couldn't loosen it, and I couldn't tighten it. I had to jack the tie rod end back into the steering knuckle to "lock" the shaft in place. Boy was I kicking myself.

Just a word to the wise.
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  #22  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:25 PM
springbuck springbuck is offline
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How often to replace Tie Rods

How often do the tie rods need to be replaced.Any ideas out

there?Springbuck maybe 150K? miles.
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  #23  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springbuck View Post
How often do the tie rods need to be replaced.Any ideas out

there?Springbuck maybe 150K? miles.
I think it really depends. The more potholes you drive through the quicker they will wear. If you are a big highway user I would expect it to last a lot longer.

Mine had about 65,000 miles when they went and they were really bad.
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  #24  
Old 07-27-2009, 08:40 PM
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Pics of a broken tie rod end offroad!

Just had to replace one I broke last weekend. Inner tie rod end also bent and had to be replaced. I don't expect ANYBODY doing this much damage on paved roads.

The one that broke was a Moog, but I can't blame their design, which is still stronger looking than OEM. Duralast look even stronger in the thread area still.

Tie rod carnage!



First attempt at a field splint. Ratchet handle too slippery, even with multiple ubolts.



Doesn't work to use only two ubolts and tie the threaded rod to the stub.



The INNER was even bent!



New versus old.



New one in. Carrying loctite for your field repairs everyone?



Comparison of thread treatment - Moog (bottom) , Duralast (top).



New one in.

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  #25  
Old 08-09-2009, 07:21 PM
modtour4 modtour4 is offline
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Anyone know the part numbers and where to get the boots for the inner tie rods? Last time I had the front end aligned, the shop ripped one of them.

Thanks

Russ
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  #26  
Old 08-09-2009, 08:11 PM
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Welcome. Isn't that the shop's problem?

Anyway, it's GM #26089593, a kit that includes the boot and both clamps. $60 at parts4chevys.com

Possibly available in the aftermarket - ask your local stores.
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  #27  
Old 08-09-2009, 11:53 PM
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WTF did you do Bill? get a little sideways and slamthe that wheels down?

Anyway, if you still have the old inners can you measure the threads to see if the 14mm guys can run a straight swap of inner and outer? I'm gonna pick up my TB from Stainless Works tomorrow and come Tuesday I'm gonna rip it apart, again, and change the hubs cause apparently they are humming. I'll check what saize outers I have and measure my inners as well
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  #28  
Old 08-10-2009, 06:25 PM
modtour4 modtour4 is offline
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Thanks Roadie. Yes, it is the shops fault, but I never checked them after the last alignment. Using this forum (lurking quite a bit), I've changed the front springs, front & rear shocks, stabilizer links, upper and lower balljoints and outer tie rods.

When I took into the dealer for an alignment, they told me the passenger boot was torn and the inner tierod needed replacing. They could replace the tierod , boot and do the alignment for $855.00!!! I bought the inners from rock auto, but could not find the boots.

Thanks for the help.

Russ
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  #29  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:59 PM
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I'm about to do this on my '04 TB, and was just wondering: How do you stop the shaft from spinning inside the knuckle when you screw down the nut?

Thanks!!
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  #30  
Old 08-12-2009, 05:06 PM
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There's either a hex recess in the end of the shaft for an allen wrench, and you need to use a wrench on the nut, not a socket. Or there are two flats on the shaft on the other side of the knuckle, often hidden under the boot. Apply a wrench there.
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