How to Replace Spark Plugs - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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  #1  
Old 08-22-2009, 06:14 PM
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How to Replace Spark Plugs

This is posted in another thread but I thought it would be a good idea to post it with an appropriate title.

Here's some pics, I did this a little while back. Use at your own risk. The 1st and 6th plugs are the hardest to get out. The first plug is under some molding, I ended up cracking the retainer clips, still sits fine because the air filter sits on top.

OK, here it goes (anyone else please send me a PM, if they feel they can better describe this process and I'll update):

Remove hose from air filter.


Loosen clamp to air filter / throttle body.


Remove Bolt.


Remove Bolt.


Here is why they call it an in-line 6 cylinder. All your spark plugs are underneath the spark plug coil packs.


Set this to the side.


Make sure you get the hose out from the bottom, make take a little wiggling


Remove the spark plug coil pack, by loosening the bolt. Note: bolt does not come off the pack. The pack is deep, so you may need to disconnect the coil pack to get it out of the spark plug hole. I am terrible with the technical names.


Remove only one coil pack at time and clean around the coil packs to make sure you don't get debris in the spark plug hole. Now, take a (This is the technical name) Spark Plug Socket with an extension bar and carefully wiggle the socket until it seats around the spark plug. Then steady the ratchet and turn counterclockwise (lefty loosey). Be careful, DO NOT CRACK THE CERAMIC on the spark plug. The spark plug should be "stuck" inside the spark plug socket and should come out of the hole quite easily.



Now get a new spark plug. Make sure it's gapped properly, look this up somewhere if you don't know what it means or ask someone at PepBoys or AutoZone, it's better to get a visual on that. Apply some anti-seize around "Just the threads." This will make it easier to remove next time. Place the non-thread side into the spark plug socket. Carefully lower it into the spark plug hole and tighten. Repeat for the rest of the spark plugs. Then go in reverse order to put away the air intake filter.


Old Spark Plugs.


You should really get the Haynes manual as a guide. That's all I used and I have never changed spark plugs in my life. Also, the spark plug closest to the cabin is really tough you may need a bigger extender or some make shift breaker bar, i.e. pipe at the end of the ratchet. Gap all of the spark plugs in advance, this will save you some time and aggravation.

Good luck. Let me know how it goes.
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  #2  
Old 08-23-2009, 01:14 AM
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...talk about detailed! nice thread! this will surely help the newer members here!!
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  #3  
Old 08-30-2009, 02:44 PM
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Hey Any Adminstrator,

Shouldn't this be a sticky?
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  #4  
Old 08-30-2009, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mubai View Post
Hey Any Adminstrator,

Shouldn't this be a sticky?
If not sticky, an Article
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  #5  
Old 09-28-2009, 09:48 AM
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Any chance this could be a sticky???
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2009, 05:46 PM
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Moderator or Administrator. Make me a sticky!
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2009, 06:25 PM
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Not with Photobucket pictures, which get disabled after a month or two of no activity in the account. Somebody would have to snag the photos and get them hosted here at trailvoy, by making them attachments, not photobucket links. Sorry nobody mentioned that earlier.

I agree with it needing to be an article, but I'm not certain who (if anybody) is editing those nowadays. If you just recreate the post using picture attachments instead of offsite links, I can make it a stickie and clean up this thread. I think.
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:18 PM
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plugs

So THAT'S where they hid em!! Thanks. I was looking in the wrong place! That will really help me when I change the first time.
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:51 PM
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Here's a tip to help replace plug #1. (The very front plug.)

If you look in the photo, you can see a plastic channel that goes across the top of the engine, blocking access to the first plug. You can use a screwdriver to pry the latches apart and lift up the lid of the channel, allowing access to the top of the plastic retainer clip. (There is one on the left and one on the right.)

If you look closely at those plastic retainers, you can see they use a round end with a pie-shaped chunk out of it to sit in a rectangular hole. The SECRET is to rotate the yellow plastic retainer so the missing chunk part works its way out of the hole. Then you can lift the channel up enough to clear the coil pack. (You don't need to remove it; just give it some slack.)

The other thing you can do is just jam a screwdriver underneath those two plastic retainers and snap the darn things off. Here is the INTERESTING part: those plastic retainer clips are the same ones that hold interior door panels in place. You can but a dozen of them at any auto parts store for a few bucks, so just snap the darn things off, pull the broken insert bit out with needlenose pliers and replace them with new ones. Presto.
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  #10  
Old 11-06-2009, 11:44 PM
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Really good tip! They couldn't just use a bolt???? I'll add that in the new write.
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