LED Flasher Relay - Page 6 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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  #51  
Old 03-12-2010, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samherston07 View Post
I have a 2007 Trailblazer and I have all LEDS for it... I have them currently in the stop lights, the SMALL 194 corner turns, backups,licenseplate, all interior... The stop lights have the little resistor built into it as well as the ones for the front and rear turns.. I installed them and got the hyper flash even though they have a built in resistor... IF I was to get the LM 487 flasher, will that fix the problem and my Cruise still work too??
The resistor built into the LED bulb itself is to keep the LED from burning out. LEDs have to run at a certain current. If they get a full 12V without any resistance at all, they immediately overcharge and burn out.

The large resistors to prevent hyperflash limits the power in the total circuit itself. LEDs can run on very little power, so if you limit a lot of power to get it to stop hyperflashing, the LEDs will continue to work just fine.
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  #52  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:33 PM
doorman doorman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samherston07 View Post
I have a 2007 Trailblazer and I have all LEDS for it... I have them currently in the stop lights, the SMALL 194 corner turns, backups,licenseplate, all interior... The stop lights have the little resistor built into it as well as the ones for the front and rear turns.. I installed them and got the hyper flash even though they have a built in resistor... IF I was to get the LM 487 flasher, will that fix the problem and my Cruise still work too??
I've got an 07 LT as well, and have done some tracing of the wiring and testing different setups. I have found the only setup that works for me with all the leds in the rear, and mirror blinker, is while using the original flasher relay. I am using Jetttstream's 60 SMDs for the tail and turns, and the Afterburners for the backup lights. I also found the extremely dim CHMSL leds are no longer dim with the original flasher. Before, with the LM 487, my CHMSL was very dimly lit (can't remeber if it was all the time); I didn't even notice it until it was dark, and the parking lamps were on. It would seem, depending on model and year, that there is some feedback going to the transmission module, and disabling the cruise. It also seemed to take a few miles of driving, and changing the transmission gear, to clear the condition in the module, allowing the cruise to work again. Just zipping up the road a short bit didn't reset it.
I will continue testing to see if there is a way to use the LM 487, and not the load resistors on the turn circuit. I'd prefer to have everything plug-n-play, and not have to splice anything. I'll post again when I've found something useful.
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  #53  
Old 03-23-2010, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorman View Post
I've got an 07 LT as well, and have done some tracing of the wiring and testing different setups. I have found the only setup that works for me with all the leds in the rear, and mirror blinker, is while using the original flasher relay. I am using Jetttstream's 60 SMDs for the tail and turns, and the Afterburners for the backup lights. I also found the extremely dim CHMSL leds are no longer dim with the original flasher. Before, with the LM 487, my CHMSL was very dimly lit (can't remeber if it was all the time); I didn't even notice it until it was dark, and the parking lamps were on. It would seem, depending on model and year, that there is some feedback going to the transmission module, and disabling the cruise. It also seemed to take a few miles of driving, and changing the transmission gear, to clear the condition in the module, allowing the cruise to work again. Just zipping up the road a short bit didn't reset it.
I will continue testing to see if there is a way to use the LM 487, and not the load resistors on the turn circuit. I'd prefer to have everything plug-n-play, and not have to splice anything. I'll post again when I've found something useful.
I agree. Its faultiness seemed to last a couple of months for me. After it remained in use for a while though, it began allowing the cruise control to activate and still works to this day. Although I will say it's strange that your LEDs lit dimly. I never had an issue with them lighting dimly or anything. My flash and the LEDs themselves have always functioned properly. It could be that yours is newer and has different electronics or something. This is quite a confusing dilemma.

Good luck in your testing.
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  #54  
Old 03-23-2010, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigapple View Post
I agree. Its faultiness seemed to last a couple of months for me. After it remained in use for a while though, it began allowing the cruise control to activate and still works to this day. Although I will say it's strange that your LEDs lit dimly. I never had an issue with them lighting dimly or anything. My flash and the LEDs themselves have always functioned properly. It could be that yours is newer and has different electronics or something. This is quite a confusing dilemma.

Good luck in your testing.

I never had a problem at all with my setup using the LM 487 with all LEDs including quad dual circuit 3157 taillights and no load resistors.
That said, I would install the resistors. It's a reliable and safe (when done properly) fix. I had the resistors and would have installed them on the front turns if I would have had problems. The Pros of LEDs far out weigh the Cons of resistors.
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  #55  
Old 03-25-2010, 12:01 AM
doorman doorman is offline
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I FINALLY GOT IT FIGURED OUT!! LM 487 and 400 ohm resistor

The 5vdc(lights out) and the 7vdc(lights on) on the brake circuit is not LED related feedback, it's from the monitoring circuit for the cruise disable input. The LM 487 was not designed for single brake light assemblies, but for the full size trucks, with the quad brake lights. This is probably why most of you with quad brakes have less problems with the cruise and the LM 487. I have soldered a 400 ohm, 1/2 watt (it's 1/8"W x 5/16" L) resistor on the LM 487 between the brake terminal(B) and the ground(E). This dissipates the small amount of voltage from the cruise cutout circuit, and allows the cruise control to work, for those of us who don't have quad brakes. It also still disengages the cruise control when the brakes are applied. No need for load resistors on the signal lights, and I still have full brake output, in case anyone was concerned about that.

This post should take of all the questions previous in this thread. Glad to help.

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  #56  
Old 03-25-2010, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorman View Post
I FINALLY GOT IT FIGURED OUT!! LM 487 and 400 ohm resistor

The 5vdc(lights out) and the 7vdc(lights on) on the brake circuit is not LED related feedback, it's from the monitoring circuit for the cruise disable input. The LM 487 was not designed for single brake light assemblies, but for the full size trucks, with the quad brake lights. This is probably why most of you with quad brakes have less problems with the cruise and the LM 487. I have soldered a 400 ohm, 1/2 watt (or maybe 1/4 watt; it's 1/8"W x 5/16" L) resistor on the LM 487 between the brake terminal(B) and the ground(E). This dissipates the small amount of voltage from the cruise cutout circuit, and allows the cruise control to work, for those of us who don't have quad brakes. It also still disengages the cruise control when the brakes are applied. No need for load resistors on the signal lights, and I still have full brake output, in case anyone was concerned about that.

This post should take of all the questions previous in this thread. Glad to help.

_________
Belltech 2/3; SP shocks/struts; Susp Maxx end links; LEDs: rr turn & mirror, brake, license, reverse; LED relay mod
Wow, excellent research man. I would have never been able to figure it out or thought of where to begin testing.

Much appreciation for your hard work and research
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  #57  
Old 04-15-2010, 09:02 PM
georgeplo georgeplo is offline
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Simple Fix for Hyper flashing

Long story, Re-wire to put in Quad REd LED Brake light and 2 LED Amber Turn Signal, Hyper flashing on Turn signal. Find and read this thread. Put in part# LM487 from NAPA, everything work fine except my remote car starter.

Take a while to figure out.

Thanks to doorman post on page 6 of this thread. Find out the LM487 have 4v on the brake line ( terminal B ) on the new Flasher relay. THat why my Remote start won't work, because it sense the Brake is on. (That will make the Cruise control not working as well ).

Take apart my old GM OEM Flasher, part# 12450284. Find out they use U643B Flasher IC. Download spec for the IC. Figure out how the chip works.

Do some math, here what I have to do, If you have a solder iron:
(Pictures of the module on Page 3 of this thread)

- If only replacing rear TURN SIGNAL to LED
Replace the Metal strip on the old Flasher module to .10 ohm 5W resistor.
Be careful make sure the legs from the Resistor not touching any other metal parts in the module.
DO NOT JUST CUT THE STRIP, have to remove it out the the board.

- If you are replacing ALL TURN SIGNAL to LED
Replace the Metal strip on the old Flasher Module to .15 ohm 5W resistor.
Be careful make sure the legs from the Resistor not touching any other metal parts in the module.
DO NOT JUST CUT THE STRIP, have to remove it out the the board.

Right now, I'm using the old module with the .10 ohm 5W resistor, everything works. Turn signal flash normal. Remote starter works, Cruise control works.

I will post again if there are any new problem show up.

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  #58  
Old 06-05-2010, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetttstream View Post
You are not running a stock setup.....You have increased the load on the circuit by adding lights, no?

DO NOT use load resistors in the BRAKE circuit....ever. Please anyone reading this DO NOT use load resistors on a brake circuit.
just curious, why would you NEVER use load resistors on the brake circuit. I have done this on my 2004 Colorado with LED brake bulbs. It made my CC work properly. Load resistors do get a little hot as times so I had to mount them to my frame. If your using LEDs in every location you just need (4) 6 ohm load resistors, two for each side. One connected to the T/S circuit and the other connected to your brake circuit, no? Thats what I did on my Colorado. So my question is why not to use load resistors in the brake light circuit??
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  #59  
Old 06-05-2010, 08:47 AM
jetttstream jetttstream is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Another BlackSS View Post
just curious, why would you NEVER use load resistors on the brake circuit. I have done this on my 2004 Colorado with LED brake bulbs. It made my CC work properly. Load resistors do get a little hot as times so I had to mount them to my frame. If your using LEDs in every location you just need (4) 6 ohm load resistors, two for each side. One connected to the T/S circuit and the other connected to your brake circuit, no? Thats what I did on my Colorado. So my question is why not to use load resistors in the brake light circuit??
Why would you put load resistors on the brake circuit when you can put LEDs in 100% of the truck (I am currently running ALL leds) and use the STOCK flasher and only need TWO load resistors TOTAL.

so you are running four?

So my question is why are you running four, when you can do the entire truck in 2?

Edit: my above comments pertain for the GMT360.

I am not familiar with colorado. Were you running stock flasher relay/module?

Load resistors do NOT belong on brake circuits.
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  #60  
Old 06-05-2010, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Another BlackSS View Post
just curious, why would you NEVER use load resistors on the brake circuit. I have done this on my 2004 Colorado with LED brake bulbs. It made my CC work properly. Load resistors do get a little hot as times so I had to mount them to my frame. If your using LEDs in every location you just need (4) 6 ohm load resistors, two for each side. One connected to the T/S circuit and the other connected to your brake circuit, no? Thats what I did on my Colorado. So my question is why not to use load resistors in the brake light circuit??
Because load resistors can be a pain to mount, must tap into stock wires, and drain a lot of unnecessary power. LEDs are very energy efficient and I like not having to worry if I were to leave something on when I walk away from the car. Load resistors act as standard bulbs do and can drain your battery just as quickly. Also, using an electronic flasher can also be an easy way to return to stock. I simply put the stock flasher back in and put regular bulbs back in. I don't have to rip out any wires or load resistors.
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